Honda Goldwing Fork Seal Replacement | Partzilla.com
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- čas přidán 8. 04. 2019
- Buy the Honda fork seal replacement parts we used here: bit.ly/honda-goldwing-fork-sea...
Learn how to replace the fork seals on a Honda Goldwing. This is a 2007 Goldwing, and this job started as just a fork seal replacement. As we dug into the forks during disassembly, we found other parts that needed to be replaced.
We’ll start by removing the brake calipers, fender, and wheel. Then we’ll remove the various brackets from the fork. Next, we’ll show you how to remove the instrument cluster to access the top of the fork, which will allow you to remove the fork. Once removed, we’ll show you how to disassemble and evaluate the parts inside the fork and then get them replaced. Once we finish the rebuilding the fork on our Goldwing, we’ll show you how to get it filled with fluid and then get the right and left sides of the fork back on the motorcycle.
NOTE: The two sides of the fork have slightly different designs. To see individual fork rebuilds:
Left fork rebuild - 7:44
Right fork rebuild - 22:20
See the Honda Goldwing front fork seal diagram here: www.partzilla.com/catalog/hon...
You’re going to need a fork seal driver for this job. If you don’t have one, find it at Partzilla.com: www.partzilla.com/product/hon...
Read how to remove the forks and replace the left side seals here: www.partzilla.com/blog/honda/...
Read how to replace the right side seals and reinstall the forks here: www.partzilla.com/blog/honda/...
You’re already working on the front end, let’s change the brake pads on your Honda Goldwing:
• Goldwing Front Brake P...
Then you can change the rear brake pads on your Goldwing:
• Honda Goldwing Rear Br...
VIDEO HIGHLIGHTS:
Removing the fender - 2:40
Removing the brake calipers - 3:10
Removing the wheel - 3:50
Removing brake and fender mounts from fork - 4:30
Removing fork crossmember - 5:00
Removing center instrument panel - 5:30
Removing instrument display - 6:30
Removing fork caps - 7:10
Dropping fork legs - 7:30
Left Fork disassembly - 7:45
Fork assembly - 14:30
Replacing fork tube bushing - 15:00
Using fork seal driver - 17:00
Installing Rings and Seals - 18:00
Replacing oil stopper ring - 19:40
Installing dust seal - 20:00
Filling forks with suspension fluid - 20:30
Installing spring and closing fork - 21:30
Right fork disassembly - 22:21
Removing dust seal - 24:20
Rebuilding right side fork - 25:50
Installing new right fork seals 26:30
Refilling right fork - 28:30
Installing right fork spring - 29:40
Installing left fork - 30:30
Installing right fork - 31:20
Replacing instrument cluster and dashboard - 32:00
Replacing brackets on forks - 32:30
Replacing front wheel - 33:50
Aligning forks - 34:50
Mounting brake calipers - 36:20
Installing fender - 36:40
Replacing cross brace - 37:00
Buy OEM Honda Goldwing GL1800 parts here:
www.partzilla.com/catalog/hon...
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In the video we’re working with a 2007 Honda Goldwing GL1800, but you may have similar steps for your Honda motorcycle. If you’re not sure whether these steps apply to your motorcycle, leave a comment and we’ll get back to you.
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you are so easy to listen to, you make a tough job easy. i was not going to tackle this but after watching your video a few times i ordered my parts. laptop went into the garage and you walked me through it. I really appreciate how you call out torque specs too. Thanks dood, keep up the steller work!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
This is the BEST Honda fork seal replacement video on CZcams. Very detailed explanation, audio and camera work. The most unique part is the method he uses to loosen the bottom bolt for the damper rod. Nobody else does it this way, which makes perfect sense without special tools. What really kind of blow me away is that the Goldwing has a Damping Rod Suspension - Exc. for anti-dive, no preload, rebound or compression damping adjustments at all for this bike that is famous for it's comfortable ride!
Wow, thanks!
Great video, among the best instructional videos I've seen on any topic. However, you definitely DO NOT have to have this specialty seal driver. The seals go in rather easily, as shown in the video. I was able to use 1.5" schedule 40 PVC couplings which are nearly a perfect fit; and I had a short length (about 20") of 2" schedule 40 PVC pipe. Together these allowed me to very easily tap in the seals. Thanks John and Partszilla for a wonderful service.
Well shot, comprehensive video about fork seal replacement. I was able to follow it and replace mine referring to video time and again. Thanks to Revzilla for this content - they're making some really great content and I'll be showing them some loyalty.
Although I have done this several times, this is the best Fork Seal Replacement Video I have seen to date. Amazingly detailed sir !
Thank you for making such a fine video. I'm not a great mechanic and depend on these videos to make sure I do it right. My parts are ordered and I'll have this video beside me as I work through it soon! Thanks again!
Great video, detailed extremely well. This man is an expert mechanic. Thanks for your knowledge.
Amazing job, I love your attention to detail. Greetings from France.
Great video and helped me with the fork seals on my 2010 GL1800. I need to clean my screen from pausing the video with greasy gloves. The seals I used were slightly different but your explanations were spot on. Time to ride!!!
Sir,
Thank you for you guidance. Your video gave me the confidence to do the job myself.
The individual that helped me order parts was helpful and polite.
Thank you.
By far the most detailed and best video I've ever seen on any fork seal replacement job! This video almost makes me want to tackle it myself. Still internally debating.
Wow! This was so helpful! I've Just buttoned up the forks and getting ready to reinstall onto the bike. Thank you for the part list, I purchased from PartZilla, and thank you for the video!
Thank you. I noticed my fork seals are leaking today and this video will give me the confidence to do this myself. (Never done this sort of thing.) The part list is very helpful. You have a new Partzilla customer!
On a 2001, I didn't need to pull the instrument cluster to get the cover off and get at the pinch bolts. This video was awesome. You certainly are a good teacher. Thanks
Excellent video with straight to the point information. You are a shining light and model to how videos should be made, so professional! Keep up the good work!
Thanks for the compliments!
This is the best video out there for this job!! I just purchased the parts thru you and ready to do the job on a Saturday!
Thank you so much, I needed these instructions for my GL1800 and this was go wonderful
Very helpful and detailed video, saved me 400€ . Thanks from Finland.
You made this look easy. Thanks for the professional demonstration.
Well done and I appreciated his attention to detail throughout the entire job.
Masterful, sir. Thank you for sharing your years of knowledge.
Your attention to fork alignment is impressive, particularly when installing the axle bolt and the upper brace. I've watched lots of fork seal replacement videos and yours is the only one that mentions alignment and how to test for sticktion. You certainly are a master mechanic. Kudos to you.
sorry to be so off topic but does anybody know a way to get back into an instagram account..?
I was dumb forgot the password. I appreciate any tips you can give me
@Christopher Asher Instablaster =)
@Kenzo Lionel i really appreciate your reply. I found the site on google and Im trying it out now.
Looks like it's gonna take quite some time so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Kenzo Lionel it did the trick and I now got access to my account again. Im so happy:D
Thank you so much, you really help me out !
@Christopher Asher No problem :)
Absolutely awesome to watch someone with this skill in operation. Thank you Partzilla. I wonder if my dealer does it as good? Hmmm??
Wonderful lesson, I think I could do this repair!! Thank you!!
I have watched this procedure many times, and this is a very good tutorial on how its done.
The fork axle centering technique is an excellent thing. Thanks. I suppose to be pedantic, a dial indicator could attached to the steel axle with a $10 magnetic holder, and then in/out measurements could be taken.
Over-constrained is nice term for describing the action of bound forks.
Good, careful, sound mechanic techniques.
Wow always wondered what that reference line was for, very nice video. Thanks!!
Pleasure me looking good job. My favorite channel.
Great video, especially the alignment tips. Thank you!
thanks for that lesson and video.......you made that look easier than it is
Great video thanks for the details. walked me right through my repair.
For the seal driver I just went to hardware store and got a piece of copper tubbing that was the right diameter. Worked great. I thing it was $6
Really love these informative videos you do. Could you possibly make a step by step video of completely stripping a 450 race quad and then rebuilding it from scratch/new race parts etc? Like a project GNCC or MX build.
Very well done video, Sir
Helped me with the this job on my ‘86 GL1200
Next time try dipping the existing Allen key into valve lapping compound. Super gripping. Works on Phillips like a dream!
excelente video muchas gracias, es de gran aporte y ayuda, saludos
I wish I could find a mechanic as thorough as yourself, I wouldn't even touch my bike just leave it to you. great video thank you
Excellent thorough video,
Strong work 👍🏻👍🏻
Excellent video. Very thorough and understandable.
Thank you.
What about the triple tree?
Should be same procedure..
Wow ! Very nicely done and explained ! Have you made a video doing the same for the GL1500 ?
Yes I did sir a blessed good afternoon to you and your family..I always enjoy your vedios and is verry educational in so menny ways..I just have one thing to say..I'll like to see you clean all parts that you are going to use back clean first before you start working..its much better ..just as how you clean oit to put up back..great job overall ..you be safe..I'll like to know if I put on a new head gasket and do one torque one the head and is the right torque if it's a problem with that..❤👍👏✌
This was a great video. I have a 02 gl1800. My turn signal isn’t working but the hazards are. I was told to check the cancel unit. Do you have a video on how to check it and where it is
Great Job; good video!
Greetings from Russia 👍
Very enlightening thank you
Superb video. I couldn't believe the state of the old fork oil. I like the electrical tape trick, not come across that one. My GL1100 seals are still weeping after I installed new seals and I wonder if that's the reason. I'm going to have to try again but I'll give the the tape a try this time. Thankfully, my GL1800 seals are good but I've booked marked your video for the future. Thanks from the UK.
Glad we could help! Thanks for watching.
At about 00:15 seconds into the video you'll see that the OEM oil seal has 8 groups of 2 dots (16 total dots). Page 14-32 of the 2006 to 2010 Honda GL1800/A Service Manual tells you to install the "- oil seal (with the marked side facing up.)" The other side has no dots. At 19:26 you can see John installed the seals with the dots facing up. I found John Talley's oil seal orientation statement at 19:02 ( "...to install it with the cut edge facing up") confusing because both sides of the OEM seals I purchased from Partzilla appear to have cut edges.
Lower backup ring & upper backup ring positions on left fork appear to have been swapped by original installer. You corrected it.
my 2 cents...the seal install tool can be made from a piece of PVC pipe also, I have found it beneficial to smooth the chrome on a buffing wheel with jewelers rouge . The pits and scratches will ruin a new seal.
I've done a few of these a fixing to do another. I don't use locktite on the bottom bolt. It makes it nearly impossible to get them apart the next time it needs to be done.
Excellent suggestion on getting rid of the non-adjustable Supersbrace fork brace. The Superbrace design probably does more damage than good and is probably the cause of the stiction problem you discovered. Kuryakyn or Traxxion both have much better fork brace design.
The strange part is a former owner swears by the Superbrace. I installed on mine and I'm happy. I'm watching this video because the fork seals are leaking and my bike (2017 model) has only 54,000km. I think the previous owner (not the one who recommended the Superbrace) took it on a long trip towing something heavy, so the fork seals leaked prematurely. That's the theory.
Can you also do a ohlins FGK 219 fork?
Great video, what year Wing is that, and how many miles was on it?
great video
can't do that with a 1500. I took my caps off to drill and tap holes in the plugs to change the oil and it went flying when I reached the last thread. I had to make a special c clamp with a welded cut in half pipe to rest against the fork tube and strap it there and had my neighbor help me compress the cap back down into the threads to screw it back in. I had already pumped the fluid out of both fork tubes and just had to fill them. How does that work with no pressure on the springs? It took all I could to compress the springs back in again. with the 2 of us.
How do you reset the welcome screen on Goldwing 2010?
Would you rely mainly on the measured volume amount or the measurement from the top of the oil to the top edge of the tube? Thank you.
Is that part list for both tubes or for one? I see quantities all set at one.
Well today I thought I would try your technique of wrapping the fork with electrical tape. Well I did not have a smooth go at it and was going to remove the tape and start over. The tapes adhesive came off on the pipe so I had to clean with rubbing alcohol. Was about to retape when I said this is a waste of time, grabbed grocery bag tightened over start of pipe little oil on tube little oil on plastic once I got the seal started a 1/4 of a inch on pipe then tore the hole bigger then slid seal down with the plastic protecting the seal from under neath then when seal gets to 1/2 inch of seal area hold plastic at the back and slip seal onto fork then right into the seal slot. So much faster than wasting electrical tape and having to clean up the adhesive left behind. Also to save time I loosen the end bolts under the axel before I remove forks saves a lot of time instead of placing them in a vise. Also find where the cap starts in the thread of the tube before putting spring and spacer back in mark cap 1/4 inch behind tube where it starts to grab hold of thread, Mark tube at where it started to grab tube imagine a clock on the tube the thread in tube starts at 12 so mark cap at 11 mark tube at the 12 when you place the cap in the tube compressing with the spring you only have to turn your rachet 1 and a half inch and the thread has grabbed in the right area on the fork at 3 o-clock and will not come popping off. But just do not get wild yet turn in forward to the 5 o-clock on the fork then back to the 4 o-clock still compressing the cap some. It is a game of back and forth making sure the threads have not crossed once you have gone around 1 and half turns your good to get wild turning it into the tube yet compressing it some. Ok decided to show you the quicker way to get the seal here is a link to my channel. czcams.com/video/oeqTjzOXjwE/video.html
Is it basically the same procedure on the gl1200?
Hi I want to ask you a question, do you happen to know what the numbers is the brake pads would be for Honda Gold Wing year 2001, I would be very grateful if you can get me some information Thank you
How different is the 06 VTX1800 fork job?
Next time you have a Allen head stripped use a star tip. If you have a star tip stopped use a Allen. Got a ton of them out like that on the Super Hornets
I have a 2010 Goldwing. Is this parts list the same.
the older 2001-2006 front fork seal is different, not sure why, should I use the new version?
seemed to have missed something why is it necessary to cover the fork tube with electrical tape? cause you don't want to possibly damage the inner seals?
saludos espero video cambioi de aceite y retenes de horquilla de la moto m109r(vzr1800 suzuki) de antemano gracias profesor
On the right side i have only one packing ring, is it ok?
The rings at 25 minutes in, took mine apart, had 2. I"m putting it back together, have one. lol
Cleaned the garage looking for it. Cant find it, also cant find a definitive part number for it either. Did not come in the rebuild kit.
Anyone know exactly the part number, I have one, just need another. The bike is an 05
@38:10, i cant believe a pinch bolt is holding the one of these thick forks from the handle bars, there has 2 b more bolts hold that fork in place? wow
Say what? At 7:12 How can you loosen the fork caps before loosening the pinch bolts??? The pinch bolts clamp down on the threaded portion of the caps and on my '08 I could twist off a half inch socket driver without budging the caps. Nearly did the first time I tried it until I learned better.
Unless the PO cranked down on the pinch bolts way too much.
I wish you had one like we do, the drain bolt in the right fork is stripped out. Tried all kinds of things but no go.
I just had that myself. tried his trick, and extractors. I ended up drilling the bolt and the head just popped right off.
That looks like an older Wing? Is this procedure the same for the 2019? Thank you.
Its a 2007 and the suspension is completely different on the 2018 and up Goldwings
so you put the oil in with the tube down then measure oil level then assemble with the spring and cap
Correct
Ugggggg. I'm at the part where the end bolt wont loosen (11:30). 6mm has now given up on me and wallowed, any tips?
I just drilled it out. The head of the nut popped off.
great job!ensane vid....and u believe that cruiseman guy wld b charging us for repair vids?? my god......hey can some1 tell me y not buy 'new forks' and put them in, instead of going thru all this? thanks!
Wanted to ask do i need double shopping list to do both forks ?
Yes. The list is per fork.
qual a viscosidade desse óleo por favor
Are the part # different on an 08 gl 1800 goldwing
Check the parts fiche at Partzilla for your year of Goldwing
consult, the two bottles or barrels carry the same amount of oil
12:48 The fork has just been dismantled, and there Installed incorrectly LOWER Back-Up ring, packing and UPPER Back-Up ring. In the same way, the master on the video assembled the feather of the fork. Minus for inattention. 13:00 Сondition of the outer bushing is determined by its inner side, and not by the outer one :))) In any case, there will be scuffs on the outer side, since the guide is tightly installed by this surface into the cylinder! The inner bushing, judging by the video frames, does not require replacement. It has no wear.
Why wrapping the fork tube with tape?..from the spacer getting scratch?
To stop the oil seal from being damaged by the top of the fork tube or from rust spots on the fork tube. Watch the video at 17.30
Hex plus by Werner tools is the best thing since sliced bread. Look that up and never strip out a hex again.
Those bushings probably did not need to be replaced. The bushings are steel coated with copper, then coated with black Teflon. That lower bushing had no copper showing through the black teflon. That bushing was not worn. The upper bushing which you declared worn out was showing copper on the “outside”which does not make contact with the fork tube. You did not even examine the INSIDE of the upper bushing to see if it was still coated with Teflon/black, and if it had copper showing through. if the black teflon coating is still intact on the INSIDE of the upper bushing and does not have copper showing through , it is good,just like the outside of the lower bushing did not have copper showing through, that bushing is still good... The outside of the lower bushing is the critical surface to be examined, on the flipside of that, the inside of the upper bushing is the critical surface that must be examined. ....that copper showing through on the upper bushing on the outside was from the stress of being driven into the fork slider without the benefit of lubrication during the install.. I caught a glimpse of the inside of the upper bushing when you were taking them off the tube. From what I saw in that brief couple seconds, there was no copper showing through that black Teflon coated inside of the upper bushing.that upper bushing once it is installed does not move. The fork tube slides on the “inside” of the upper bushing.Driving that upper bushing in is a relatively violent process to the bushing, it Hass to be pounded in using a driver.it is an interference fit without oil. That is why the coating On the outside of the upper bushing had copper showing through. But that is not the surface that the fork tube slides through....
I just did a fork spring upgrade, fork oil change, fork seal change, on my GL 1800. I bought new bushings, and new seals. When I took the forks apart and examined the parts, with the fact check reference of my Honda factory shop manual , it turns out I did not need to replace the original bushings. The Teflon coating on the surfaces of the bushings that matters was intact..
Also: my gold wing is a 2002. I bought it from the original owner with 13 K miles. He had never had the forks serviced before I bought the machine when it was 18 years old. The length of the spring on my inspection was 13 1/4 inches long also just like the springs you declared as having been replaced at some point in this video. I was upgrading the suspension because it felt sacked out, And my front tire was cupped, Which is a suspension lack of damping problem on my gold wing, I bought progressive fork springs, they were also 13 1/4 inches long. exactly the same length as my 18 year old stock springs, Which is exactly the same length as the springs you measured in this video.The manual says the limit is 12.94 inches in length..
Why are both of the forks different ?
The left fork is an old style damper rod fork whilst the right is a cartridge fork. Essentially, the right fork does all the damping work whilst the left fork is designed to work with the anti-dive system. In reality the front end isn't up to the job, it's too soft and the anti-dive shouldn't be necessary, and it locks up the front suspension under breaking which is darned uncomfortable when descending a potted hill. On my 2004 I run HyperPro springs front and rear and I've shimmed the anti-dive so it's ineffective. I've also added the Kuryakyn fork brace as per the video. The crack is, for all its looks and promise, the suspension on the 2018+ is still way too soft and can barely support the weight of the bike. Hi from the UK.
if you're just replacing fork seals- you do NOT need to remove the tubes from the bike; which means you can skip taking apart the console up top. It also makes it easier to remove the bottom allen head bolt because there is spring pressure on the dampener. Just remove the bolt, remove the clip on top of the seal- then pull the slider from the bottom... everything is right there. Now obviously- if you're replacing the spring itself or servicing the dampener, then yes- you have to go 'all the way' and pull the tubes from the triple but 95% of fork service is seal replacement -- so save yourself some work.
Ride safe everybody.
I really appreciate your comment here - I need to replace just the seals on my GL1500 and would like to do it without pulling the tubes out of the triple. QUESTION: If you remove the Allen bolt at the bottom of the tubes while the forks are still in the bike, does the bottom slider section of the forks fly down under the spring pressure, or are the springs only pressing on the top caps? I know they make special tool to remove the top cap safely due to the pressure there, so it must be a pretty heavy force. Thanks again!
@@piekielrl no- the sliders won't jettison but... they WILL start to fall via gravity if you unscrew the allen all the way. Make sure you have something to catch the fork oil as the allen acts as the a plug for the oil. Also make sure you got the front of the bike lifted high enough so you can hank the sliders off the tubes without hitting anything. You don't have to be super high up but you want about a foot of clearance from the bottom of the fork to your work surface. You can gain some height by simply turning the steering head. BTW- I'm making a huge assumption that these forks are 'normal' forks and not of the inverted / upside down type. What year is your 1500 ?
@@lynskyrd It's a 97 Aspy, with "normal" forks. (Thanks again!)
@@piekielrl thats a beautiful bike- classic. Also- one other thing; to get fork oil back into the bike- you might have to move 'a couple of things' out of the way but judging from a some of the Aspencade videos I saw- the fork caps look like they are accessible - at least from the visuals.
Have 2003 wing there is NO reason to remove gauge cluster! The cover is ezaly removed.
Or order the progressive gas
Shock with preloaded springs
And install them while you have them apart..🤪 lifetime guarantee.. best ride 😎
No more leaking seals..ever…..
It would have been nice if they just had a, drain/fill plugs.
You clearly did NOT assembly the same way you took it out. On min 12:45 after you remove the seal the order is aluminum ring,rubber, the steel washer ring. when you assemble between min 18:33 and min 18:36 you put it in a different order. first the aluminium then rubber then steel washer ring. whats is the correct order???
Where is the parts list
The first line of the description includes a parts list. Here's the link: bit.ly/honda-goldwing-fork-seal-replacement
Sir one doubt how old are you??
Well, I may have had a pet dinosaur at one time. :)
I don't understand why you tape the fork
Just to protect it from scratches while we're working with it.
that's a hell lot of parts to uninstall
🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹😍
NO! NO! NO!!! At 15:53 and 26:37 you should NEVER put loctite on those bolts! They'll never come back out again. The compression valve will just spin in the cartridge on the right and the damping rod will just spin on the left and you'll never get the forks apart forever and ever amen.
Ask me how I know...
Wow, I can see why they charge $500 to do this. I imagine I could do it if I had the parts, room and time but I'm lacking time and room so I gotta come up with the bucks to get it done😩 . This sucks, I don't trust someone to do this!!! The place I take my Goldwing to get tires has a service mgr with an attitude so taking it there would be out of the question. This sucks!!
ola qual a viçosidade desse óleo por favor