Rover 3.5L V8 Standard Engine vs Stage 1 Upgrade
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- čas přidán 6. 09. 2024
- Comparing 2 rebuilt V8 Rover engines. 100% standard vs minor upgrades to give it more performance!
We could put a Holley carb on or a big fancy exhaust manifold to make it a lot faster, however the goal was to keep the car looking externally 100% standard.
These two engines Dyno tested under the exact same conditions, same fuel etc.
What difference can these minor upgrades make?
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Engine 1 for factory restored, standard Rover P6 3500 V8.
Engine 2 for upgraded Rover P6 3.5L V8 which was later upgraded to 4.6L
Upgrades:
- Switched out standard 14v heads for 4.6 10v heads.
- Small bit of port work, smoothing out intake ports where they meet the valve throats and the intake manifold.
- Poppet valves fitted to the carburettor butterflies replaced with flat ones.
- Cam swapped to a Newman Phase 1 Mild Cam.
Love the kind of understated mod. Perfect for the classic enthusiast who wants to keep everything close to original.
Good job !
Grinding away the edges and flushing the inletports of the manifold alone , does allreddy miracles !
You can hear nr 2 run more " round " beqause of better breathing .
I have done this in the 80s to the in and outletmanifold of my Alfa 2 liter engine , and with its twin Webers won about 10 BHP , just by this simple grinding alone .
Old school tuning , lovely !!!!
Fascinating stuff! Similar to what I am doing with mine, just not as googly eyed.
I have an early block and heads and have done the following:
-sourced 10.5:1 pistons
-machined the block and heads 10 thou
-heavily ported the heads and manifold including perfectly matched ports, radiused and matched ports to seats etc.
-shortened modified guides fitted with modern stem seals and 3 angle seats at 45°-45° for seat to valve.
-480thou lift cam after the 1.6 rocker ratio.
-reground late EFI SD1 crank, forged rods and ARP studs in bottom end.
I'm hoping it will be a barrel of laughs. Will be advancing the cam 4° to bring the power in sooner, as I don't want to be revving the proverbial faecal matter out of it.
I also made a "stealth" baffled sump for my P6 which I made a video of. But I'm not good at CZcamsing.
Nice to see I'm not the only nut job who wants to claim with a straight face that it's perfectly stock.
Good gain Graham , very rarely did i get 150 out of a stock engine i use to do a lot with the 4x4 brigade. Weber at the time did a replacement 4 barrel bit like the Holley it came in a kit with a Offenhauser inlet and a big round K&N as you know this totally transformed them and with some nice manifolds on sometimes you would see a good 30hp gain and similar with torque ... then they started snapping half shafts lol . But id say your on the money with that gain. Just think with a good head job and bigger valves and a 270 cam and manifolds u might see 200+ ...
Hope your camera man had his ear defenders on when recording that second run and leaning over the top of the engine like that , 😂
another great video 👍🏻
I did indeed! It’s so cool being in the cell with the engines running - James
V8 Rovers are not too bad on noise, When dyno-ing them i dont tend to wear ear defenders even if i do pulls with the cell door open. High rpm pintos on sidedrafts are another matter!
@@PenguinMotorsnot always about the volume mate its exposure, loud noises for too long will take a toll
Good stuff 👍
That is the sound of money turning into fun
Oh 😮
I wonder how much difference just changing to 10 bolt heads alone would be worth?
in my opinion not much couple of bhp
Im not sure there is any point doing engine mods with those twin SU carbs. Its like forcing usain bolt to wear wellington boots in the 100m.
gains wont be as big as with better induction, but you will still get gains, and a lot of rover P5/P6 and off roading landrovers prefer to keep su's
@@PenguinMotors potentially a super charger fed buy quad SU set up.
loving the v8 vids ,When fitting the 10 bolt heads which head gasket did you use tin or composite?
Used composite to avoid changing the compression ratio, but could of used tin to gain some
Did you put new crank bearings or one of those fancy duplex chains in Graham?
the upgraded engine had new bearings and a cloyes duplex chain.
I have a SD1 standard v8 what is a rough cost from tuning it up to around 200bhp?
that depends kind of depends on how healthy it is. but if its healthy engine then you went up a stage from the very mild cam i put into this and with some air filtration improvements then you should be over 180bhp, chuck a 4 barrel carb on it and you should be past 200bhp
@@PenguinMotors wow that was a fast reply thanks! I would say it’s a healthy engine. If I was to go for a stage one tuneup 180hp what would be a really rough cost for parts and labour?
I know it’s very difficult to say I just want to know if it’s with in my budget. Or if I need to continue saving.
difficult for me to price, i dont do bolt on go faster stuff as such, i only do performance work when i have the engine out to strip/rebuild and dyno test afterwards.
@@PenguinMotors That’s fair enough mate thank you for the reply!
Hi, love your informative channel. I have an early 3.5 in a TR/7, have run it in sprints and hill climbs for 12 years and was always reliable. installed new rings and bearings and timing chain and now having problems chewing out the cam drive gear this has me stumped can you help me. Pump is free moving, cam the same, early, no retaining collar. Thank you. Michael Simington.
In the old days that used to be fairly common fail. it was usually put down to revving the engine hard before it was fully warmed up. It used to be common to add an extra oil feed to spray oil directly at the distributor gear. there's also a couple of spots where you can drill holes in the block which improves oil flow into the timing case. Have you got the gear on the cam the right way round? it fits both ways but one way it lubricates better due to the groove in it. as with a lot of things, im hearing that modern gears are poor quality, search out new old stock, or good old ones. Have you changed your distributor? if so check that the gear end of the distributor shaft has some up and down end float, if its got none the gears may not centre themselves correctly and will wear faster than they should, there a similar thing happening in the world of ford pintos with certain brands of distributors.
@@PenguinMotors Thank you for your helpful information, will make al mods and keep fingers crossed. Had this problem with another rover and only way i could fix was to extend keyway on crank, fit crank oil pump and timing case cover. Thank's again.
Interested in having some work done on my 4. Ltr V8, it’s going in a Defender 110. How do I contact you?
You can drop an email to penguinmotors@outlook.com
Interesting. 👍
I took a 4.6 out of a range rover and rebuilt it using 3.5 front cover etc, edelbrock carb/manifold, distributer. 3.9 cam. Care to hazard a guess at power?
230/240
That'll do! I'm new tae v8s sounds plenty in an old capri. Thanks.
What kind of power do they make with a Holley carb ?
anything from 150bhp to well over 300 depending on engine spec
@@PenguinMotors As you tested with a mild cam, some porting and headers ?
0:41-1:14
Hi question for you
If I buy 3.9 engine and I wanna fit ignition distributor instead electronic ignition whats I need to change
Thanks
from what you say i assume you have a distributorless engine, so your need to change the timing cover, camshaft, fit a distributor drive gear
@@PenguinMotors is any good from 3.5 because I have one
you can 3.5 bits fit your block, but ancillery drive may be different, and sump may not fit.