Educational video on repairing a caliper. Best of all, you added safety measures. As a former fire and rescue responder. I had to take a patient to hospital for broken finger from removing a motorcycle caliper piston.
Suggestion, I use an old syringe and inkjet needle (blunted) with fresh brake fluid and lift the dust covers away from the pistons and give a good squirt down. Also, I use red rubber grease made for brake systems mixed with brake fluid in a small jar and shaken up to form a fluid. This aids the lubrication of the o rings in the bores. Glad to see you had the same as I did try to do a twin-piston range rover calliper. You need patience and no good trying to rush things. I do not use a freeing agent on calipers that are still in service. the seals react with the brake fluid and create further problems. Also try using a socket that fits down the inside of the piston this prevents the piston going off to one side when using the "G" clamp. Good video.
Thank you! Going to try this now. I spent nearly a full day trying to get two pistons to decompress that were stuck all the way in the bore. No edges showing to grab to and obviously brake pressure was not doing the trick. I tried everything. That air compressor “adapter” setup seems so obvious now but I think it’s brilliant. It never crossed my mind.
This looks like the caliper off my 84 BMW 733 (e23). The golden tip here was about pressing it back into its seated position. Once I did that, I was able to get the penatrating oil in and turn it. I was able to turn it by wedging a 5/8 inch long socket wrench into the piston and turning it back and forth and eventually pulling out while turning back and forth. So great tip on the reseating!! Thanks!
Oh! I forgot to mention I use a hammer to tap it back it because the tapping in alternating sides like also loosened it. Trying to press in with clamp may not work when piston is wedged off center. In fact, there is a risk to add further damage to the piston/caliper walls.
Good eye! These were in fact from a 1983 733i that was was returning to roadworthyneas after an extended time sitting before I got it. Happy to say it’s back running and on to it’s next care taker. I’ve never had any issue with damage pushing the pistons back in with a clamp if they become cocked. I don’t really see how using a hammer would be any less potentially damaging. Either way your still exerting a downward force to right it. Either way I’m glad my video provided you with some help. Be sure to like, share, and subscribe :)
Thanks for posting this video. I was struggling with my 1972 Lancia Girling calipers, pots would not budge. Your approach of pushing back in, pulling back out, pushing back in etc worked a treat. I did add some other things, like using vise grips to twist the pots in the bores, the toughest one of the four I had to do that while applying the air pressure at the same time, but then it came out. Super video.
I agree to using a c clamp Vice grip from harbor freight so much easier. Then the old wood clamps 🗜️. But I’m a welder so I’ve got plenty of them in my shop.
This worked for me. I had my piston almost out, but it was seized and wouldn't turn. I sprayed penetrant on it, C clamped it back into the hole a bit, and turned it with a vice + hammer until it started spinning freely and it popped right out. Fyi I did pump the brakes to get the stubborn one started.
Can you consider to soak the whole body in atf for a night? Or similar thin lubricant.....yr system shows the hard( dryer) and sudden action, which is good....its the worst case , that is best to show us! Great man
Very good job, educated and well trained for every one. SAFTEY FIRST. please use much more brake cleaner to smooth cylinders and moving out faster. THANKS ANYWAY
I've decided to remove the boots and spray in around the pistons zep 45 penetraiting oil, then after I get the pistons out I grind the edge of pistons to a bevel then the outer lip of the bore use small die grinder wheel to bevel port the opening so there's no way for a thin layer of rust to freeze the pistons Then after caliper is split and wire brush clean I use a brush and apply two coats of adco rust converter it does well on clean metal too apply it to the side ends of to the pistons and inside them too.polish the pistons on bench polisher till their too hot to hold and bright and smooth n shiney. Rust converter to boot groove of pistons Once dry chrome spray paint.then apply more adco over the paint on the inside area with pistons dropped back in. Then when dry remove the pistons install orings and use dot 5 purple silicone military fluid then poor fluid around each sunk piston then install the boots. Refinish the hardware same way beach grinder wire brush each part then 2 coats adco rust converter then chrome paint. Take a set of pads used clean and adco coat the sides and backs of pads.re assemble the caliper and fill with dot 5 wrap in paper and plastic bag put in box and be ahead of the game with spare calipers for your car now R&R master cyl bleed with with dot 5 . Take a syringe and rubbing alcohol and clean out the metal lines in the car new hoses and install calipers adjust park brake,and clean all those parts and apply adco to them to prevent rust. Gravity bleed each caliper. And drive the car using gears to slow down, reduce high heat creation stops on rebuilt brakes.its hell to overhaul a system .on abs remove the damn thing connect pipes up like conventional system. All my mercedes vws peugeot I'm converting to dot 5 due to frequent freeze up of calipers. Gm old school cars single piston take more time parked to freeze up. If parked outside with lots of rain and humidity like here in Southern USA alabama the dot 5 has become necessary Another video mercedes guy uses diesel injection tester to pump up calipers to remove stuck pistons with pressurized diesel fuel.seems to work well when compressed air fails and pedal pumping on car of caliper Also has failed. Cheers
Great video after watching this , I think I will just bite the bullet and buy new or reco ones by the time I get a air fitting made and buy some extra g clamps etc . I don't have your patience and persistence wish I did great video thanks for making it.
I agree, 9/10 I would just buy the rebuilt ones as well. Almost always less headache. In this case however they no longer made rebuilt ones for my car. So I had the fun of rebuilding them.
Very good video mate, you gave me the good idea of how to get compressed air to do it although I knew that was the way, just didn't click about modifying a brake hose with the Nitto air connection. Those ones you have were very stubborn - Good idea putting the penetrant into the body but probably leaving it for 24 hours would have let that work better. I also would have put some penetrant around the piston on the outside, after it had been pushed back in after the compressed air cycle (the gap showing around it at 29:11) . And propped it up so the fluid could soak in around from the outside, leaving it for 12 hours or so. Also good to see you wearing gloves. So many mechanical type videos have the guy with bare hands in all sorts of nasty stuff. Silly. I am just wondering which car uses a 4 piston caliper as standard, must be fairly upmarket? Then again, mine are PBR calipers from 1969 which are twin piston and used on Australian Valiants and Austin 1800s, so I suppose that was fairly advanced in the day...
Good golly, all the shimming and unshimming and clamping and unclamping and pressurizing and banging, this is an example how not to do it. The way to do this is to set a c-clamp on each piston after removing the caliper from the disc. If your master cylinder is shot, fix that first, you have to do it anyway. Loosen all the clamps one turn, then pump the brakes. System hydraulic pressure is much higher than your compressor can deliver, will easily push the pistons out, yet it's safer, no chance of pistons being shot across the garage and spraying residual brake fluid everywhere. Each piston will move out until all the clamps are tight. Loosen each clamp another turn and repeat. You want to allow the pistons to come out evenly so that when the first one starts leaking, they will all be nearly out. If you don't want to work in the wheel well, make up a longer brake line, you took the trouble to make up a line to use your compressor, didn't you? If you're doing multiple calipers, remove the caliper and cap off the line as you do each one. The only downside is you go through a bit of brake fluid filling up the caliper. I save all the brake fluid from unfinished cans of fluid to use just for pumping out pistons. Flush out all this old stuff when you're done and refill with fresh.
You can't just get one at any auto part store. You would get a blank look and "A what? No mate we just sell car parts".😄 Nice video though dude, good patience.
I just got a bit lucky on that one. I happened to have an old blow gun that had the right threads on each side to connect between my air line and my old brake hose. I'd suggest an auto parts store or a good tool supplier for the air fittings to create an adapter. Should only be a couple $$ for the fittings you need.
JustFixIt99 I follow your example to the T, and have successfully removed all of the pistons from the calipers. You saved me time and a boatload of money. I just need to clean everything up, prime, paint and rebuild. Thank so much.
Great job mate! You have the patience of Job, the hour on this one was a great example. Doing this now and your video is a huge help. I didn't want to push the piston in any further but will follow your lead. Many thanks
I would doubt it. A brake bleeder is only running at 10 or so psi I think. My compressor was set to 120 psi doing this. You can use your car though if it’s not too stuck. Just hook it to your brake line and step on the pedal while the caliber is hanging free of the disk. You’ll need to secure the other moving pistons though or they’ll pop out first. Downside to this is if you have an older master cylinder this can ruin it as you’ll be pushing it into a section of the cylinder that’s not normally used. Just like with conventional break bleeding.
Yes, if that’s an option. For me my master cylinder as shot, and the lines were as well. It can also be tricky to work a piston free with a fluid under the car.
My single front piston won't move at all. I took the whole caliber off and tried to clamp it back in. It's super stuck. Should I soak it in brake fluid for a couple of hours because of rust?
Brake fluid probably wont help, its not really a good lubricant. The key really is to break it loose initially so you can work it back and forth I had one that I couldn't break loose with a c-clamp and what made the difference was lubing the c-clamp. Put some grease on the threads of the clamp to lube it up. This allowed me to crank down with just enough extra force to break it loose. I would try this first.
@@JustFixIt99 I actually stood the caliber up and pour a little of break fluid around the piston for two hours and did the clamp thing it worked. I put the caliber back on and start pressing the brakes and it finally pop all the way out. Thanks man whew, brakes and rotors are done.
True, but then the insides of the calliper are packed full of grease that you have to clean out. There are some calliper that also cannot be split and cleaned out fully either.
Painful.... just a suggestion. Mount the unit in a vice ( everyone has a vice) do what you're doing plus wrap the thing with some containment......rag or something similar,and use a soft hammer to tap on side whilst using full power air. I don't know about the G clamp thing every time though, I use a brass drift to reposition the piston
Yeah no shiz on the keep your hands out. I pulled a really dumb move and got my finger, luckily I had a rag I was sticking between them. Did not feel good. Luckily I still have my finger.
Yes. Occasionally that is true but most of the time calipers are removed from a working brake system. Almost all of these videos on CZcams don't make mention of the best way (hydraulically) so viewers are lead to believe the only way is by air pressure. Thanks for your reply.😊
I have also had break systems, on motorcycles from memory, where the brake master didn’t have enough capacity to push out the piston, and air was also the only option there. There is never one way to do something, and no one way applies to all situations. You try what is available to you. I also like that with air you don’t dump break fluid all over. But that’s just me.
You are right. There is exceptions to one way working in all cases but I have yet to find a master cylinder that didn't create more pressure than an air compressor even though cycle brakes run lower pressure than cars by far. As far as fluid running all over it can be captured in a drain pan fairly easily, as brake fluid only drips down from the caliper. Some people think fluid sprays from the caliper but without air in it the fluid it just seeps out when the piston finally creeps past it's seal. I prefer a method (hydraulic) that has a low failure rate that air pressure just can't come close to. Especially on some of the restorations on collector vehicles where I had to use a grease gun to pressure pistons out of non-straight through wheel cylinders. Catch ya later. 🤗
Way to remove piston since I don’t have compressor I used car tire pump make sure car is on insert the hose in to hole with your fingers try to block as much hole where hose is I head to cut the hose in order for air to come out full force and be safe piston shoots out like a bullet it hit my calliper and made a dent your skull will crack if hit
Fill the caliper with water and blank off the ports then use a heat torch around the outside of the caliper - the pressure build up blows any seized piston out
Glass doesn’t degrade with other solvents and chemicals used around the shop, and is therefore more useful. If you can’t have a glass jar on the workbench safely then perhaps working on a cars braking system is not for you.
DONT DO IT!! Just throw them away! It calculated $518 in parts and labour after I completed this dirty ass job with a grease gun and completely new calliper assemblies would have cost me $345 including labour, I put myself down as $30 per hour. It's not worth rebuilding callipers, a waste of time and money
Except that these ones are not available any more and rebuild kits are the only option. Also, if people want to trade time for saving $$$$ it can make a lot of sense, so calculating your paid rate is really irrelevant. The kits to do this were like $15 a calliper. Honestly your comment is just ignorant of the facts as well as other peoples situations.
Educational video on repairing a caliper. Best of all, you added safety measures. As a former fire and rescue responder. I had to take a patient to hospital for broken finger from removing a motorcycle caliper piston.
Suggestion, I use an old syringe and inkjet needle (blunted) with fresh brake fluid and lift the dust covers away from the pistons and give a good squirt down. Also, I use red rubber grease made for brake systems mixed with brake fluid in a small jar and shaken up to form a fluid. This aids the lubrication of the o rings in the bores. Glad to see you had the same as I did try to do a twin-piston range rover calliper. You need patience and no good trying to rush things. I do not use a freeing agent on calipers that are still in service. the seals react with the brake fluid and create further problems. Also try using a socket that fits down the inside of the piston this prevents the piston going off to one side when using the "G" clamp. Good video.
Outstanding video. Shows how calm patience is so often the key to difficult workshop tasks
Thanks, this one was definitely a marathon.
I realize I am kind of randomly asking but does anyone know of a good website to stream newly released tv shows online ?
@Julian Amir flixportal
@Tristan Ephraim Thank you, signed up and it seems to work =) I appreciate it!
@Julian Amir glad I could help =)
Thanks for making the video. It helped unstuck a similar problem.
Glad to have helped.
Thank you! Going to try this now. I spent nearly a full day trying to get two pistons to decompress that were stuck all the way in the bore. No edges showing to grab to and obviously brake pressure was not doing the trick. I tried everything. That air compressor “adapter” setup seems so obvious now but I think it’s brilliant. It never crossed my mind.
Hope it works for you.
This looks like the caliper off my 84 BMW 733 (e23). The golden tip here was about pressing it back into its seated position. Once I did that, I was able to get the penatrating oil in and turn it. I was able to turn it by wedging a 5/8 inch long socket wrench into the piston and turning it back and forth and eventually pulling out while turning back and forth. So great tip on the reseating!! Thanks!
Oh! I forgot to mention I use a hammer to tap it back it because the tapping in alternating sides like also loosened it. Trying to press in with clamp may not work when piston is wedged off center. In fact, there is a risk to add further damage to the piston/caliper walls.
Good eye! These were in fact from a 1983 733i that was was returning to roadworthyneas after an extended time sitting before I got it. Happy to say it’s back running and on to it’s next care taker.
I’ve never had any issue with damage pushing the pistons back in with a clamp if they become cocked. I don’t really see how using a hammer would be any less potentially damaging. Either way your still exerting a downward force to right it.
Either way I’m glad my video provided you with some help. Be sure to like, share, and subscribe :)
Thanks for helping me out with my current caliper rebuild.
Glad to help
Thanks for the video, it helped me free some very stubborn pistons from a 1979 E24. I also had to persevere over 20 times before they popped. 👍
Glad to have helped
This is the one to watch!! Well delivered , no bull shit with safety tips thrown in
Thanks! Be sure to like, share and subscribe.
great video. gave me valuable tips and the patience to get my caliper's pistions removed THANKS !
Nice shop and full description. You are handy indeed.
Thanks for posting this video. I was struggling with my 1972 Lancia Girling calipers, pots would not budge. Your approach of pushing back in, pulling back out, pushing back in etc worked a treat. I did add some other things, like using vise grips to twist the pots in the bores, the toughest one of the four I had to do that while applying the air pressure at the same time, but then it came out. Super video.
Glad to have helped :)
I agree to using a c clamp Vice grip from harbor freight so much easier. Then the old wood clamps 🗜️. But I’m a welder so I’ve got plenty of them in my shop.
Been struggling with one pot on my fulvia too ! Spent hours on them. Having another go tomorrow. Oh the joys
This worked for me. I had my piston almost out, but it was seized and wouldn't turn. I sprayed penetrant on it, C clamped it back into the hole a bit, and turned it with a vice + hammer until it started spinning freely and it popped right out.
Fyi I did pump the brakes to get the stubborn one started.
Can you consider to soak the whole body in atf for a night? Or similar thin lubricant.....yr system shows the hard( dryer) and sudden action, which is good....its the worst case , that is best to show us! Great man
Thanks champ worked a treat good Karma your way
Now I know the reason why my local mechanic refuse to restore my calipers.
It can be a real bear....
Working on 1987 bmw L7 brought me here. Thanks for this
Glad to help :) Be sure to like, share, and subscribe!
Tuvo bastante paciencia, y logro lo que quería muchas felicidades, saludos.
You are a very careful and precise youtube shower I think you ought to teach in mechanical instructor for Ranken Technical College in St. Louis
Thanks :)
Thank you for sharing this video
Very good job, educated and well trained for every one. SAFTEY FIRST. please use much more brake cleaner to smooth cylinders and moving out faster. THANKS ANYWAY
Thank you!
I used a hydraulic diesel injector tester hooked to a brake line to pop a pair of 67 calipers with rust grooves 😎
Yup, that would defiantly work. Have to be carful with high pressure fluids around your skin though, injection wounds are nasty business.
I've decided to remove the boots and spray in around the pistons zep 45 penetraiting oil, then after I get the pistons out I grind the edge of pistons to a bevel then the outer lip of the bore use small die grinder wheel to bevel port the opening so there's no way for a thin layer of rust to freeze the pistons
Then after caliper is split and wire brush clean I use a brush and apply two coats of adco rust converter it does well on clean metal too apply it to the side ends of to the pistons and inside them too.polish the pistons on bench polisher till their too hot to hold and bright and smooth n shiney.
Rust converter to boot groove of pistons Once dry chrome spray paint.then apply more adco over the paint on the inside area with pistons dropped back in.
Then when dry remove the pistons install orings and use dot 5 purple silicone military fluid then poor fluid around each sunk piston then install the boots. Refinish the hardware same way beach grinder wire brush each part then 2 coats adco rust converter then chrome paint. Take a set of pads used clean and adco coat the sides and backs of pads.re assemble the caliper and fill with dot 5 wrap in paper and plastic bag put in box and be ahead of the game with spare calipers for your car
now R&R master cyl bleed with with dot 5 . Take a syringe and rubbing alcohol and clean out the metal lines in the car new hoses and install calipers adjust park brake,and clean all those parts and apply adco to them to prevent rust.
Gravity bleed each caliper.
And drive the car using gears to slow down, reduce high heat creation stops on rebuilt brakes.its hell to overhaul a system .on abs remove the damn thing connect pipes up like conventional system.
All my mercedes vws peugeot I'm converting to dot 5 due to frequent freeze up of calipers. Gm old school cars single piston take more time parked to freeze up.
If parked outside with lots of rain and humidity like here in Southern USA alabama the dot 5 has become necessary
Another video mercedes guy uses diesel injection tester to pump up calipers to remove stuck pistons with pressurized diesel fuel.seems to work well when compressed air fails and pedal pumping on car of caliper Also has failed.
Cheers
Great video after watching this , I think I will just bite the bullet and buy new or reco ones by the time I get a air fitting made and buy some extra g clamps etc . I don't have your patience and persistence wish I did great video thanks for making it.
I agree, 9/10 I would just buy the rebuilt ones as well. Almost always less headache. In this case however they no longer made rebuilt ones for my car. So I had the fun of rebuilding them.
Very good video mate, you gave me the good idea of how to get compressed air to do it although I knew that was the way, just didn't click about modifying a brake hose with the Nitto air connection. Those ones you have were very stubborn - Good idea putting the penetrant into the body but probably leaving it for 24 hours would have let that work better. I also would have put some penetrant around the piston on the outside, after it had been pushed back in after the compressed air cycle (the gap showing around it at 29:11) . And propped it up so the fluid could soak in around from the outside, leaving it for 12 hours or so.
Also good to see you wearing gloves. So many mechanical type videos have the guy with bare hands in all sorts of nasty stuff. Silly.
I am just wondering which car uses a 4 piston caliper as standard, must be fairly upmarket? Then again, mine are PBR calipers from 1969 which are twin piston and used on Australian Valiants and Austin 1800s, so I suppose that was fairly advanced in the day...
Thanks for the feedback. The calipers were off of a 1984 BMW 733i.
Damn, no wonder they sell whole rebuilt calipers!
Good golly, all the shimming and unshimming and clamping and unclamping and pressurizing and banging, this is an example how not to do it. The way to do this is to set a c-clamp on each piston after removing the caliper from the disc. If your master cylinder is shot, fix that first, you have to do it anyway. Loosen all the clamps one turn, then pump the brakes. System hydraulic pressure is much higher than your compressor can deliver, will easily push the pistons out, yet it's safer, no chance of pistons being shot across the garage and spraying residual brake fluid everywhere. Each piston will move out until all the clamps are tight. Loosen each clamp another turn and repeat. You want to allow the pistons to come out evenly so that when the first one starts leaking, they will all be nearly out. If you don't want to work in the wheel well, make up a longer brake line, you took the trouble to make up a line to use your compressor, didn't you? If you're doing multiple calipers, remove the caliper and cap off the line as you do each one. The only downside is you go through a bit of brake fluid filling up the caliper. I save all the brake fluid from unfinished cans of fluid to use just for pumping out pistons. Flush out all this old stuff when you're done and refill with fresh.
this helped thanks
Glad to hear it :) be sure to like, share, and subscribe!
Subscribed brother
You can't just get one at any auto part store. You would get a blank look and "A what? No mate we just sell car parts".😄 Nice video though dude, good patience.
Awesome video, very informative. Now I know I definitely don't want to attempt this!
Most come apart much easier than this. That being said, if rebuilt ones are available, it’s usually they better option.
@@JustFixIt99 now if you could just convince my friend Mike of this... :D
I'm trying to avoid helping on his motorbike
@@assSOBAD I have a video showing how to rebuild a motorcycle calliper,
czcams.com/video/E0pF_IhI9SI/video.html
@@JustFixIt99 also a good video, please don't encourage him ;)
Hi ...Great video!!!
Love you're intro music.. what is the name ...I would like to hear more?
hi.. what is a blue can lubricant that you used to free the piston?
Just some WD40
Thanks!
Thanks bro, great info. Could you show us how you made your "adapter" hose ?
I just got a bit lucky on that one. I happened to have an old blow gun that had the right threads on each side to connect between my air line and my old brake hose. I'd suggest an auto parts store or a good tool supplier for the air fittings to create an adapter. Should only be a couple $$ for the fittings you need.
JustFixIt99 I follow your example to the T, and have successfully removed all of the pistons from the calipers. You saved me time and a boatload of money. I just need to clean everything up, prime, paint and rebuild. Thank so much.
@@tionamos9402 Glad to help. Be sure to like, share, and subscribe :)
Great job mate! You have the patience of Job, the hour on this one was a great example. Doing this now and your video is a huge help. I didn't want to push the piston in any further but will follow your lead. Many thanks
would a brake power bleeder be able to force the pistons out?? I dont have compressed air..
I would doubt it. A brake bleeder is only running at 10 or so psi I think. My compressor was set to 120 psi doing this. You can use your car though if it’s not too stuck. Just hook it to your brake line and step on the pedal while the caliber is hanging free of the disk. You’ll need to secure the other moving pistons though or they’ll pop out first.
Downside to this is if you have an older master cylinder this can ruin it as you’ll be pushing it into a section of the cylinder that’s not normally used. Just like with conventional break bleeding.
Shouldn’t pumping the brakes with the caliper attached force the caliper out?
Yes, if that’s an option. For me my master cylinder as shot, and the lines were as well. It can also be tricky to work a piston free with a fluid under the car.
Quick question can I used the same rubbers if they come out in good condition?
I have on occasion in the past. However the rebuild kits are cheap and I would always recommend replacing them if at all possible.
JustFixIt99 thanks but mine does not have a ring seals on the bottom of the piston hole
JustFixIt99 it’s just the dust rubber
That’s not right. It has to have a sealing ring, otherwise all the brake fluid would pour out.
My single front piston won't move at all. I took the whole caliber off and tried to clamp it back in. It's super stuck. Should I soak it in brake fluid for a couple of hours because of rust?
Brake fluid probably wont help, its not really a good lubricant. The key really is to break it loose initially so you can work it back and forth
I had one that I couldn't break loose with a c-clamp and what made the difference was lubing the c-clamp. Put some grease on the threads of the clamp to lube it up. This allowed me to crank down with just enough extra force to break it loose. I would try this first.
@@JustFixIt99 I actually stood the caliber up and pour a little of break fluid around the piston for two hours and did the clamp thing it worked. I put the caliber back on and start pressing the brakes and it finally pop all the way out. Thanks man whew, brakes and rotors are done.
@@zachratedrll1529 Glad to hear ya got it.
What type of vehicle are you working on? My 1986 300zx only have one piston
These were off of a E23 BMW.
Part 2 how to rebuild caliper☺👍
Part 3 how to buy a new caliper ;)
how do you put the piston back in against the rubber
Lube it with brake fluid and slide it in evenly with a c-clamp and socket.
If the pistons were not pitted then what was stopping them from moving?
Just varnish and gunk on them from sitting/decades of use if I remember correctly. It was years ago now.
Adapting a grease zerk to the bleeder port and pumping the piston bores full of grease will push a stuck piston right out.
True, but then the insides of the calliper are packed full of grease that you have to clean out. There are some calliper that also cannot be split and cleaned out fully either.
Can't pop them out with the brake peddle. Once got em loose
Nice Lambo Caliper
Cool.
Next time, use a vise to hold the caliper on the table and a better compressor. Thank you!
Compressor wasn’t the issue, it’s more than large enough. I have a vice, not sure it would have helped any though.
I wonder why you don't use some W40 oil to losen up them pistons and a 2x4
That’s literally in the video
Painful.... just a suggestion.
Mount the unit in a vice ( everyone has a vice) do what you're doing plus
wrap the thing with some containment......rag or something similar,and use a soft hammer to
tap on side whilst using full power air. I don't know about the G clamp
thing every time though, I use a brass drift to reposition the piston
Yeah no shiz on the keep your hands out. I pulled a really dumb move and got my finger, luckily I had a rag I was sticking between them. Did not feel good. Luckily I still have my finger.
Ouch, yeah, really got to keep clear when dealing with forces like this. Glad your ok.
Why not use the original brake system to hydraulically push the pistons out? I've done that for years.
The original system was in similar shape, I had to replace everything. There was no ability to push fluid through it at this point.
Yes. Occasionally that is true but most of the time calipers are removed from a working brake system. Almost all of these videos on CZcams don't make mention of the best way (hydraulically) so viewers are lead to believe the only way is by air pressure. Thanks for your reply.😊
I have also had break systems, on motorcycles from memory, where the brake master didn’t have enough capacity to push out the piston, and air was also the only option there.
There is never one way to do something, and no one way applies to all situations. You try what is available to you.
I also like that with air you don’t dump break fluid all over. But that’s just me.
You are right. There is exceptions to one way working in all cases but I have yet to find a master cylinder that didn't create more pressure than an air compressor even though cycle brakes run lower pressure than cars by far. As far as fluid running all over it can be captured in a drain pan fairly easily, as brake fluid only drips down from the caliper. Some people think fluid sprays from the caliper but without air in it the fluid it just seeps out when the piston finally creeps past it's seal. I prefer a method (hydraulic) that has a low failure rate that air pressure just can't come close to. Especially on some of the restorations on collector vehicles where I had to use a grease gun to pressure pistons out of non-straight through wheel cylinders. Catch ya later. 🤗
Way to remove piston since I don’t have compressor I used car tire pump make sure car is on insert the hose in to hole with your fingers try to block as much hole where hose is I head to cut the hose in order for air to come out full force and be safe piston shoots out like a bullet it hit my calliper and made a dent your skull will crack if hit
Compresure
Since you had the small C clamps I would have locked down three and worked on one at a time, more pressure!
Seems like an awful lot of work to do this when remanufactured calipers are fairly cheap.
They are not available for the e23. Only the rebuild kits are still available.
Why didn't you use WD 40?
I did.....
It’s literally in the video...
Fill the caliper with water and blank off the ports then use a heat torch around the outside of the caliper - the pressure build up blows any seized piston out
Sounds like a good way to get steam burns and scalded with old break fluid....
@@JustFixIt99 if your a complete moron
Or if something simply goes wrong. I honestly don’t think that’s a really great idea.
Your intro is way, way, way to long!
Safety First - Use a plastic container not GLASS.
Glass doesn’t degrade with other solvents and chemicals used around the shop, and is therefore more useful. If you can’t have a glass jar on the workbench safely then perhaps working on a cars braking system is not for you.
DONT DO IT!! Just throw them away! It calculated $518 in parts and labour after I completed this dirty ass job with a grease gun and completely new calliper assemblies would have cost me $345 including labour, I put myself down as $30 per hour. It's not worth rebuilding callipers, a waste of time and money
Except that these ones are not available any more and rebuild kits are the only option. Also, if people want to trade time for saving $$$$ it can make a lot of sense, so calculating your paid rate is really irrelevant. The kits to do this were like $15 a calliper. Honestly your comment is just ignorant of the facts as well as other peoples situations.