We’ve been running Woodmizer Silver Tip and Hardbacks for years in the mill and resaws, but the quality started to suck. Lots of weld breaks in some boxes of blades, and lot of blade body cracks at base of gullet with Woodmizers. We’ve recently switched over to the Ripper 37 deep 7 blades from Jerry’s Resharp. They’re Dakin Flathers Blades, European Steel which is a better steel. We’re finding they’re running closer to 3-4 hours in large oak logs before change, and giving us 3+ resharps. No weld breaks so far. We also like the deeper gullet design. Running a 1 1/2” x .050 Ripper 37 deep 7.
@@americandream_89 , that’s one of the issues, the Ripper 37’s are around $37 each plus shipping. They don’t have a volume discount or free shipping at a certain volume count. We were right around $36 because our blades are 208” on Woodmizer’s blades with free shipping due to the volume we were buying each time, but were doing good to get 2 resharps out of each blade with some blades breaking at weld on first run & were pulling blades at 2 hr run time. We’re already running the R37’s at 3 to 3 1/2 hours on first run, and looking forward to seeing how many resharps we’ll get. We can already tell the European steel is superior. It seems to be perfect balance between hard back and flex, but not breaking. Over half of the blades we’re pulling at 3-3 1/2 hours are still sharp. I’ll let you know how it goes after we get better idea of resharps, etc.
@@user-bw7db7mi1l yeah keep me updated. We normally run 1.5-2 hours. Getting 2-4 Sharping’s out of ours. Do you think you can cut as fast with the ripper?
@@americandream_89 , we’ve ran Woodmizer Silver Tip and Double Hard in 1 1/2 x 7/8 x 10 degree, Turbo 739 & 747’s. Running 2 hours & pulling blades, and seemed like if tried to go to 2 1/2 hrs plus they’d break at weld 95% of time, most weren’t dull or dip/diving they just broke! We’re in Texas so no freezing issues, and running diesel on wheels/blades. We’ve been running bands since 1987 and been in sawmill business since 1948, so we know the game and the Woodmizer blades have just got where they sucked. Had best luck out of Turbo 7 degree but should run longer than 2 hrs, and sometimes get stress cracks at gullet after first resharp and always by second resharp. When you hear that tick tickity tick, well......shut her down! Very few blades made through 3rd resharp. We’re cutting 16-24” 80% red oak and 20% gum logs, so blades aren’t under any additional stress. Also have had much better luck out of Silver Tip than Double Hard blades. Double Hard likes to break if put under any additional push stress after 1 1/2 hours of running, and not enough flex. We’re looking for a blade that’ll run at least 3 hours 80% of time with 2 resharps minimum. I think the better European steel will maybe do it??? Also like getting a hair less kerf at .050 blades with Dakin Flathers blades. The Ripper 7’s cut as fast or faster than the Turbo 7’s, which we always liked the Turbo 7 the best. We’ll know soon enough, and let you know.
I run the 7/40 woodmaxx .050 1.5" wide on my Baker 3640E. They cut longer and last longer than the DTSS blades I use to buy from Cooks Saw. I saw for 3 to 4 hours before I take it off to sharpen it. I also have a morbark debarker I run my logs through first. Clean logs keep the blades sharper longer. Plus I can sell the mulch coming from the debarker.
@@americandream_89 I do everything myself so I'm not pushing the blade hard. I've used .055 2" blades from cooks and they broke after 1 sharpening. My log deck is 16' long. I'll cut it all up and than run my edger. Separating grade lumber from lumber for farmers. Also cut log cabin kits out. Been sawing for 20 years on a bandmill. Used to run a frick circle saw for my dad's business. I'm 5th generation in my family to own and run a sawmill.
I don’t have a half hour to watch all this but I’ll tell ya this, there ain’t no blade that’s gonna cut that hickory like a DW Bands 7 degree notch tooth, the new style with the notch in the gullet not the old style where it was at the tip. You’ll lose feed speed but you’ll have straight cuts. And idk if you ever have to cut frozen or half frozen hardwood but those dw bands are the best that I’ve found. They will cut flat as a pancake in frozen hardwood. I’ve run those kasco 7/40’s, wmz 7/47, wmz 7/39. Same mill. Only difference is I have Premier crowned steel bandwheels which blow those belted bandwheels out of the water.
We saw all year long and see about a month of frozen logs. What is DW bands? I’ll give them a try just to compare. We have tried so many blades over the year. So far we always stay with the turbo 7. Are you saying you installed steel wheels on your WM? I’ve heard of people trying so many things like different belt companies and wheels. We haven’t had issues with belts tracking or working. Thanks for the info
@@americandream_89 I can get you there contact info they are about 45 minutes from where I live in PA. They are the best. You can even buy woodmizer 747 or 739 through them cheaper than you can at woodmizer. They buy the coil and weld it themselves. They know what they are doing.
@@allischalmer55 sounds good shoot me the information. I currently buy from several non Woodmizer venders. Roughly 1-2 hundred blades at a time. I’d be curious to see prices from them
99% of people buying these will be cutting 4/4 material. That half inch cut will waste my lumber. Along with what little grain change from 1” apart won’t change results drastically.
Great content. Enjoyed the comparison, learn lots from your video's. Keep them coming. Congrats again on your newest family member.
We’ve been running Woodmizer Silver Tip and Hardbacks for years in the mill and resaws, but the quality started to suck. Lots of weld breaks in some boxes of blades, and lot of blade body cracks at base of gullet with Woodmizers. We’ve recently switched over to the Ripper 37 deep 7 blades from Jerry’s Resharp. They’re Dakin Flathers Blades, European Steel which is a better steel. We’re finding they’re running closer to 3-4 hours in large oak logs before change, and giving us 3+ resharps. No weld breaks so far. We also like the deeper gullet design. Running a 1 1/2” x .050 Ripper 37 deep 7.
That’s great info. I’ve had several others on here talk about those ripper 37. What’s the price per blade on those? We get ours for 29-30 a band
@@americandream_89 , that’s one of the issues, the Ripper 37’s are around $37 each plus shipping. They don’t have a volume discount or free shipping at a certain volume count. We were right around $36 because our blades are 208” on Woodmizer’s blades with free shipping due to the volume we were buying each time, but were doing good to get 2 resharps out of each blade with some blades breaking at weld on first run & were pulling blades at 2 hr run time. We’re already running the R37’s at 3 to 3 1/2 hours on first run, and looking forward to seeing how many resharps we’ll get. We can already tell the European steel is superior. It seems to be perfect balance between hard back and flex, but not breaking. Over half of the blades we’re pulling at 3-3 1/2 hours are still sharp. I’ll let you know how it goes after we get better idea of resharps, etc.
@@user-bw7db7mi1l yeah keep me updated. We normally run 1.5-2 hours. Getting 2-4 Sharping’s out of ours.
Do you think you can cut as fast with the ripper?
@@americandream_89 , we’ve ran Woodmizer Silver Tip and Double Hard in 1 1/2 x 7/8 x 10 degree, Turbo 739 & 747’s. Running 2 hours & pulling blades, and seemed like if tried to go to 2 1/2 hrs plus they’d break at weld 95% of time, most weren’t dull or dip/diving they just broke! We’re in Texas so no freezing issues, and running diesel on wheels/blades. We’ve been running bands since 1987 and been in sawmill business since 1948, so we know the game and the Woodmizer blades have just got where they sucked. Had best luck out of Turbo 7 degree but should run longer than 2 hrs, and sometimes get stress cracks at gullet after first resharp and always by second resharp. When you hear that tick tickity tick, well......shut her down! Very few blades made through 3rd resharp. We’re cutting 16-24” 80% red oak and 20% gum logs, so blades aren’t under any additional stress. Also have had much better luck out of Silver Tip than Double Hard blades. Double Hard likes to break if put under any additional push stress after 1 1/2 hours of running, and not enough flex. We’re looking for a blade that’ll run at least 3 hours 80% of time with 2 resharps minimum. I think the better European steel will maybe do it??? Also like getting a hair less kerf at .050 blades with Dakin Flathers blades. The Ripper 7’s cut as fast or faster than the Turbo 7’s, which we always liked the Turbo 7 the best. We’ll know soon enough, and let you know.
I run the 7/40 woodmaxx .050 1.5" wide on my Baker 3640E. They cut longer and last longer than the DTSS blades I use to buy from Cooks Saw. I saw for 3 to 4 hours before I take it off to sharpen it. I also have a morbark debarker I run my logs through first. Clean logs keep the blades sharper longer. Plus I can sell the mulch coming from the debarker.
How come you only run a .050? Verses running a .055
I’ve never seen much of anything come from cooks that was good.
@@americandream_89 I do everything myself so I'm not pushing the blade hard. I've used .055 2" blades from cooks and they broke after 1 sharpening. My log deck is 16' long. I'll cut it all up and than run my edger. Separating grade lumber from lumber for farmers. Also cut log cabin kits out. Been sawing for 20 years on a bandmill. Used to run a frick circle saw for my dad's business. I'm 5th generation in my family to own and run a sawmill.
I don’t have a half hour to watch all this but I’ll tell ya this, there ain’t no blade that’s gonna cut that hickory like a DW Bands 7 degree notch tooth, the new style with the notch in the gullet not the old style where it was at the tip. You’ll lose feed speed but you’ll have straight cuts. And idk if you ever have to cut frozen or half frozen hardwood but those dw bands are the best that I’ve found. They will cut flat as a pancake in frozen hardwood. I’ve run those kasco 7/40’s, wmz 7/47, wmz 7/39. Same mill. Only difference is I have Premier crowned steel bandwheels which blow those belted bandwheels out of the water.
We saw all year long and see about a month of frozen logs. What is DW bands? I’ll give them a try just to compare. We have tried so many blades over the year. So far we always stay with the turbo 7. Are you saying you installed steel wheels on your WM? I’ve heard of people trying so many things like different belt companies and wheels. We haven’t had issues with belts tracking or working. Thanks for the info
@@americandream_89 I can get you there contact info they are about 45 minutes from where I live in PA. They are the best. You can even buy woodmizer 747 or 739 through them cheaper than you can at woodmizer. They buy the coil and weld it themselves. They know what they are doing.
@@allischalmer55 sounds good shoot me the information. I currently buy from several non Woodmizer venders. Roughly 1-2 hundred blades at a time. I’d be curious to see prices from them
Try to flatten or roll the blades that are diving. Also do you own this place (company)?or are you contracted to saw these logs for someone else?
747 did struggle a little on that one cherry log
Need to cut with one, drop 1/2 inch and cut with the other so you’re cutting the same grain
99% of people buying these will be cutting 4/4 material. That half inch cut will waste my lumber. Along with what little grain change from 1” apart won’t change results drastically.