A friend suggested the aluminum ring approach. I was going to try and put a small weld in the corners, but didn't want to effect the upper ring groove.
Hi Joe, nice work. I'm not sure it's applicable, nor necessary, but it seams that a lot of the professional cylinder head porting experts for automotive cylinder heads use a filler epoxy called "splash zone" for port filling and shaping. Good luck!
@@dynojoemods2764 yeah this one by far has the most time I’ve put into a single saw. Idk how many vids I shot to time and compare. I did learn a few things tho so it was worth it.
When talking about r&d I feel like I turned my saw in, in the middle of r&d. Just ran out of time. Joe, you're saw ripped from what I can see on the videos I put yours to go number one.
@@tatepazaski5488 I hope it did its thing. Lots of strong saws showed up. All I can do is cross my fingers and wait for the results lol. True tuning and r/d is never done. Eventually you just have to call it enough and send it. I'm sure your build did well, and I'm positive you learned some things along the way.
@@dynojoemods2764 well thank you but I shouldn't have went back in there and did some free grinding. Yes I did learn some stuff. I got you at number one and I put myself at number 20 on the pics. I hope that damn stock saw doesn't end up in front of me!!!!!!!
My neighbor gave me an almost new 55 25 years ago. He bought it new, and it seized up on the first load of wood he cut. He took it back to the local dealer, who repaired it under warranty, and it seized again. He was using the right mix. It wasn't his only saw. I'm guessing it was an air leak, likely at the plastic intake. When he moved, he said " here take this". He had bought a Stihl. And, I'm now kicking myself in the butt for giving it to my dad as it was. Then my brother snagged it. I didn't need it at the time, and the Internet wasn't loaded with cheap Husqvarna 55 parts as it is now. 10 years after I gave it away, I bought a new 455. But after watching how good the 55 runs with a few modifications, I am again kicking myself. Oh well. I've been hoping that maybe someday Joe will hop up 455, one of the most popular saws ever. I opened up the muffler on mine last year, and that alone woke it up. Is it worth porting? Dunno. I haven't seen a Dyno report on one. Hint hint.
@@dynojoemods2764 A friend has a 450. We've cut side by side and it cuts as fast as my 455, but is 2 pounds lighter, making it a better all around firewood saw. And lighter is better for me, having broken my left elbow 5 times. Husky seems to have sandbagged the power rating of the 450. The 455 is a different animal though. It's built for long term hard use durability with larger crank bearings and a metal reinforced crank mount. It should last anyone cutting 10 cords of firewood a year their entire lifetime. But because the cylinder is different, particularly the intake ports that are separate compared to the 450's connected ports, the work you did on the 450 doesn't fully apply to the 455/460. There are a few videos of ported 455's but none with dyno test results to verify it's worth the effort, or just how much power you can get out of one by porting it. Simply nipping 5mm off the intake side of the piston skirt, opening up the muffler, and removing the spark plug gasket to bump up compression a bit seems to give good results without affecting reliability. With so many 455 saws in use, a mod & Dyno video would be very popular. -Thanks for all you do. I truly enjoy your videos. Hope you win some races!
Dude… you’re just an alien or something dude!!! Absolutely my freaking hero!!! Who’s “Saw Mack-Daddy” enough to be welding an aluminum ring in on a piston like that then calling that work “ugly!”… hopefully you’ll never see mine!!! That was a freakin awesome job on that ring!!! Crazy awesome transfer’s and those fingers!!! I’ve got to try the fingers in a little 350 or something else I’ve got around… I wanna practice with those some!!! I really like to look at the port-mapping sheet with my different colors on my functions… but I’m far far away from pressing the envelope on really “radical builder’s” like these awesome horizontal hustle race entrées!!! Absolutely righteous idea to see the different candidates and then we get to see how they’re built and then how they run against each other it’s just absolutely awesome it’s an absolute small engine educational opportunity and it’s totally beautiful!!! What a fabulous bunch of awesome work and videos from you “Top Tier Builder Fellas!”
MORE COMPRESSION Cant wait to be called nuts for this one but here goes I know for absolute fact that from about 1975 thru the mid 1980s APBA outboard hydroplane racers using (headless) mercurys racers cheated by squashing the cylinders in a press first (at and for MERCURY'S Racing division) and by others after we caught on. This was done by supporting the block on a machiened steel slug that was a few thousandths smaller than the bore and carefully crushing the top of the (cylinder head area) slightly. Over time I refined my process by adding various types of stops usually with screws in the top of the slug or on the press which was good for about 1-2 ccs on a 180 cc cylinder. later with "some" never being enough later using solid shims and finally cast and massaged west systems epoxy for a contoured stop about 4 ccs could be removed reliably. I never measured the exact temp but like when I preheated for TIG welding back then Just hot enough that dry notebook paper would flame when touched to the heated part. Its amazing what small amount compression does to a low compression 2stroke without a tuned pipe. looks like a saws squish height wont be affected at all so rember when the total volume comes down so does the squish velocity so it may even be a little freeer reving too as in some situations too much squish velocity can be as much effect on rpms as port timing is . food for thought best of luck LOVE THAT MINI BRAKE looks alot like a land and sea from way back (I Still have their propshaft model) and its turning 35 this yerar.
Thank you for the info, luckily these saws just being a single cyinder, they are easy to machine for more compression, or setting port heights etc. It is indeed a small land and sea brake. 7" unit for karts etc.
Yo joe, badass stuff man, keep up the good work and keep the videos comig, question why did u block off the bottom of the transfers on the cylinder, i thought it being open to the bottome end would b better
doing that would lower the compression and most detrementally destroy the squish velocity reducing the power by more than increasing port duration could possibly add
That is the woodshed for the boiler. We call them quonset buildings around here. Come in all different sizes from animal huts to huge grain storage buildings.
hi Joe, do you know naca ducts? make a piston with a naca on the intake, or even on the bottom of the intake. I've been wanting to try it for a while, but I'm not equipped for porting
What would the reeds help? Not a lot or real estate in the carb area to fit full size reeds. These saws are limited on transfer volume vs a traditional 50cc reed engine.
Hey Joe, good stuff man! if it were me I would just raise transfers for now 3 or 4 degrees and test and then raise the exhaust and test, that way have numbers to verify if the lower ex roof is better. By the way I received my mandrel so have to get to cutting some squish bands soon!
I love how Joe just casually machines up an aluminum ring. Good problem solving there!
A friend suggested the aluminum ring approach. I was going to try and put a small weld in the corners, but didn't want to effect the upper ring groove.
Hi Joe, nice work. I'm not sure it's applicable, nor necessary, but it seams that a lot of the professional cylinder head porting experts for automotive cylinder heads use a filler epoxy called "splash zone" for port filling and shaping.
Good luck!
I don’t feel so bad for doing multiple cylinders and burn up lots of hours testing and trying different methods. Awesome stuff Joe
This saw is right up at the top of total r/d time and dyno runs....
@@dynojoemods2764 yeah this one by far has the most time I’ve put into a single saw. Idk how many vids I shot to time and compare. I did learn a few things tho so it was worth it.
When talking about r&d I feel like I turned my saw in, in the middle of r&d. Just ran out of time. Joe, you're saw ripped from what I can see on the videos I put yours to go number one.
@@tatepazaski5488
I hope it did its thing. Lots of strong saws showed up. All I can do is cross my fingers and wait for the results lol. True tuning and r/d is never done. Eventually you just have to call it enough and send it. I'm sure your build did well, and I'm positive you learned some things along the way.
@@dynojoemods2764 well thank you but I shouldn't have went back in there and did some free grinding. Yes I did learn some stuff. I got you at number one and I put myself at number 20 on the pics. I hope that damn stock saw doesn't end up in front of me!!!!!!!
My neighbor gave me an almost new 55 25 years ago. He bought it new, and it seized up on the first load of wood he cut. He took it back to the local dealer, who repaired it under warranty, and it seized again. He was using the right mix. It wasn't his only saw. I'm guessing it was an air leak, likely at the plastic intake. When he moved, he said " here take this". He had bought a Stihl. And, I'm now kicking myself in the butt for giving it to my dad as it was. Then my brother snagged it. I didn't need it at the time, and the Internet wasn't loaded with cheap Husqvarna 55 parts as it is now. 10 years after I gave it away, I bought a new 455. But after watching how good the 55 runs with a few modifications, I am again kicking myself. Oh well. I've been hoping that maybe someday Joe will hop up 455, one of the most popular saws ever. I opened up the muffler on mine last year, and that alone woke it up. Is it worth porting? Dunno. I haven't seen a Dyno report on one. Hint hint.
I have a video on the 450, it gained pretty well. My neighbor has been using it the last year or so firewood duty.
@@dynojoemods2764 A friend has a 450. We've cut side by side and it cuts as fast as my 455, but is 2 pounds lighter, making it a better all around firewood saw. And lighter is better for me, having broken my left elbow 5 times. Husky seems to have sandbagged the power rating of the 450.
The 455 is a different animal though. It's built for long term hard use durability with larger crank bearings and a metal reinforced crank mount. It should last anyone cutting 10 cords of firewood a year their entire lifetime. But because the cylinder is different, particularly the intake ports that are separate compared to the 450's connected ports, the work you did on the 450 doesn't fully apply to the 455/460.
There are a few videos of ported 455's but none with dyno test results to verify it's worth the effort, or just how much power you can get out of one by porting it. Simply nipping 5mm off the intake side of the piston skirt, opening up the muffler, and removing the spark plug gasket to bump up compression a bit seems to give good results without affecting reliability.
With so many 455 saws in use, a mod & Dyno video would be very popular.
-Thanks for all you do. I truly enjoy your videos. Hope you win some races!
Dude… you’re just an alien or something dude!!! Absolutely my freaking hero!!! Who’s “Saw Mack-Daddy” enough to be welding an aluminum ring in on a piston like that then calling that work “ugly!”… hopefully you’ll never see mine!!! That was a freakin awesome job on that ring!!! Crazy awesome transfer’s and those fingers!!! I’ve got to try the fingers in a little 350 or something else I’ve got around… I wanna practice with those some!!! I really like to look at the port-mapping sheet with my different colors on my functions… but I’m far far away from pressing the envelope on really “radical builder’s” like these awesome horizontal hustle race entrées!!! Absolutely righteous idea to see the different candidates and then we get to see how they’re built and then how they run against each other it’s just absolutely awesome it’s an absolute small engine educational opportunity and it’s totally beautiful!!! What a fabulous bunch of awesome work and videos from you “Top Tier Builder Fellas!”
Oil retention pockets😅. I’m definitely going to use that!
Very interesting Joe.
MORE COMPRESSION
Cant wait to be called nuts for this one
but here goes
I know for absolute fact that from about 1975 thru the mid 1980s APBA outboard hydroplane racers using (headless) mercurys racers cheated by squashing the cylinders in a press first (at and for MERCURY'S Racing division) and by others after we caught on.
This was done by supporting the block on a machiened steel slug that was a few thousandths smaller than the bore and carefully crushing the top of the (cylinder head area) slightly.
Over time I refined my process by adding various types of stops usually with screws in the top of the slug or on the press which was good for about 1-2 ccs on a 180 cc cylinder.
later with "some" never being enough later using solid shims and finally cast and massaged west systems epoxy for a contoured stop about 4 ccs could be removed reliably.
I never measured the exact temp but like when I preheated for TIG welding back then Just hot enough that dry notebook paper would flame when touched to the heated part.
Its amazing what small amount compression does to a low compression 2stroke without a tuned pipe.
looks like a saws squish height wont be affected at all so rember when the total volume comes down so does the squish velocity so it may even be a little freeer reving too as in some situations too much squish velocity can be as much effect on rpms as port timing is .
food for thought best of luck
LOVE THAT MINI BRAKE looks alot like a land and sea from way back (I Still have their propshaft model) and its turning 35 this yerar.
Thank you for the info, luckily these saws just being a single cyinder, they are easy to machine for more compression, or setting port heights etc.
It is indeed a small land and sea brake. 7" unit for karts etc.
Awesome work!
If you make it a reed intake you could save that cylinder by making a boost port trasfer along the intake side.
It was pretty fun to see how it plays out...
Wild stuff.
Pretty dang impressive! 👍🏼👍🏼
always fun to tinker i like this guy altho i think he missed his calling to give jeff dunham a run for his money lol
Yo joe, badass stuff man, keep up the good work and keep the videos comig, question why did u block off the bottom of the transfers on the cylinder, i thought it being open to the bottome end would b better
Add a thicker base gasket? Should raise rpm , lesson intake and raise exhaust. .325 chain speed for smaller cookie cuter
And a inner cooler on that aluminum intake block( dry ice) just thinking. You the man... love your professional demeanor.
doing that would lower the compression and most detrementally destroy the squish velocity reducing the power by more than increasing port duration could possibly add
Yes, I was thinking it may add rpm for a cookie cutter ( .325 chain) with less HP.
Yes, I was thinking it may add rpm for a cookie cutter ( .325 chain) with less HP.
Joe did you send a saw to novice lumberjack. For the horizontal hustle.
Yes, this saw was down at the race.
What's the story with that arch-top shed at 1:41? I'd like to have something like that on my place.
That is the woodshed for the boiler. We call them quonset buildings around here. Come in all different sizes from animal huts to huge grain storage buildings.
You saved 15 grams with the original setup. How much did it weigh after the ring and welding Joe?
I think that piece and weld only added a couple grams back on.
@dynojoemods2764, did it cure the contaminated intake charge? Or was that even a problem?
Power picked up after doing only that fix so I called it a win. But it still spits plenty back
@dynojoemods2764 , any chance of putting an expansion chamber on it? Even if it's just for a short?
@@johnclarke8180 if it is still running when it returns home I'll toss the 170 pipe on for some fun
hi Joe, do you know naca ducts? make a piston with a naca on the intake, or even on the bottom of the intake. I've been wanting to try it for a while, but I'm not equipped for porting
I have not heard that term before. Can you explain what they are?
Are you thinking of carving out the profil off a naca duct in the intake channel? Can it speed up the flow?
@@dynojoemods2764 You've certainly seen them, those V-shaped air vents on the bonnets, czcams.com/video/AdOxONRb2PE/video.html
naca ducts are those V-shaped air intakes you find on the bodywork czcams.com/video/AdOxONRb2PE/video.html
seriously all that aluminum without any reeds what were you thinking ??????
Reeds mainly help low end power
What would the reeds help? Not a lot or real estate in the carb area to fit full size reeds. These saws are limited on transfer volume vs a traditional 50cc reed engine.
less reversion more effective primary compression and another boost port aiming up to help the loop formed by the others @@dynojoemods2764
what about fitting a 262 cylinder?
It had to be an open port cylinder according to the rules
@@dynojoemods2764 Could one be used if you weren't confined by the rules?
Hey Joe, good stuff man! if it were me I would just raise transfers for now 3 or 4 degrees and test and then raise the exhaust and test, that way have numbers to verify if the lower ex roof is better. By the way I received my mandrel so have to get to cutting some squish bands soon!