Hi I totally agree with you regarding the radio never had one in my mk 3 spitfire just love the engine sound I also have a limited edition Mitsubishi FtO coty V6 manual never played the radio in that one either Kev Devon (oh have had my Spitfire 25 years this year👍🇬🇧
I’ve watched a few of your videos now and I have a few observations. We have very similar mechanical philosophies. The Dremel is king. Silver spray paint is shit. The engine is the stereo. Nothing wrong with a chochy block. Your engine is beautiful, have you modified it in any way? Love watching your videos and really looking forward to working on my spitfire restoration.
Great set of video. It's hard to believe how far you have taken a box of rusty bits and ended with a car you can be proud of. Congratulation. I did notice a few things: The battery appears to be installed incorrectly. Ideally you want the positive terminal towards the center of the car and the terminals rear most. The reason being to maintain clearance between the positive terminal and the hood. Any contact between the two can result in a fire (ask me how I know)...cleances can be checked with plumber putty or similar. Also a few pounds invested in a a silicone terminal cover is money well spent. Also, it looks like you had a bolt between the brake and clutch master cylinders forks and pedal. These wear pretty rapidly and ovalise the hole in the pedal assembly....having threads on the bearing surfaces doesn't help. I believe the correct pins are a couple of bucks. Anyways, great set of video....I really enjoyed them! Steve
Thanks for the heads-up Steve. I pretty much guessed at most of it when rebuilding, so it's handy to have eagle-eyed viewers! I'll look at both points you mentioned
bleeding out the oil pressure line i never knew that either if you had to do that or not. you're doing all the stuff i wanna do.... it's just that you've actually done it! i' have cosmic vintage mags, which are nice, but wanted to do a modern wheel as well. gauges are perfect... probably necessary too. if you're open to critique i''d put back in the radio H bracket. it's a chunk of aluminum that s structural part of the chassis. gauges can go on the radio opening. i wonder also if you change the position of the dummy light with the pressure tube if you'd need to lengthen the dummy light wire?.... cheers.
You're totally right Nick. I am indeed going to put the H bracket back in with the gauges in the radio hole. I don't know why i didn't do it that way!? And yes, i need to lengthen the wire for the oil pressure dummy light too, it's a very short wire for some reason. Thanks for the feedback!
Hi I totally agree with you regarding the radio never had one in my mk 3 spitfire just love the engine sound I also have a limited edition Mitsubishi FtO coty V6 manual never played the radio in that one either Kev Devon (oh have had my Spitfire 25 years this year👍🇬🇧
I’ve watched a few of your videos now and I have a few observations.
We have very similar mechanical philosophies.
The Dremel is king.
Silver spray paint is shit.
The engine is the stereo.
Nothing wrong with a chochy block.
Your engine is beautiful, have you modified it in any way?
Love watching your videos and really looking forward to working on my spitfire restoration.
Thanks man! Appreciate the kind words. They are a great car to work on. Engine is totally standard, just cleaned up.
Great set of video. It's hard to believe how far you have taken a box of rusty bits and ended with a car you can be proud of. Congratulation.
I did notice a few things:
The battery appears to be installed incorrectly. Ideally you want the positive terminal towards the center of the car and the terminals rear most. The reason being to maintain clearance between the positive terminal and the hood. Any contact between the two can result in a fire (ask me how I know)...cleances can be checked with plumber putty or similar. Also a few pounds invested in a a silicone terminal cover is money well spent.
Also, it looks like you had a bolt between the brake and clutch master cylinders forks and pedal. These wear pretty rapidly and ovalise the hole in the pedal assembly....having threads on the bearing surfaces doesn't help. I believe the correct pins are a couple of bucks.
Anyways, great set of video....I really enjoyed them!
Steve
Thanks for the heads-up Steve. I pretty much guessed at most of it when rebuilding, so it's handy to have eagle-eyed viewers! I'll look at both points you mentioned
bleeding out the oil pressure line i never knew that either if you had to do that or not. you're doing all the stuff i wanna do.... it's just that you've actually done it! i' have cosmic vintage mags, which are nice, but wanted to do a modern wheel as well. gauges are perfect... probably necessary too. if you're open to critique i''d put back in the radio H bracket. it's a chunk of aluminum that s structural part of the chassis. gauges can go on the radio opening. i wonder also if you change the position of the dummy light with the pressure tube if you'd need to lengthen the dummy light wire?.... cheers.
You're totally right Nick. I am indeed going to put the H bracket back in with the gauges in the radio hole. I don't know why i didn't do it that way!? And yes, i need to lengthen the wire for the oil pressure dummy light too, it's a very short wire for some reason. Thanks for the feedback!
Just what I was thinking Nick. And as said in the video, You dont need a radio in a Spitfire.
PUT OIL PRESSURE GAUGE WHERE THE TURN SIGNAL LIGHT IS AND USE THE OIL PRESSURE LIGHT FOR THE TURN SIGNALS
They are a money pit ,but fun so worth it if it puts a smile on your face