I have had my smoker for 24 years and use PAM twice a year on mine inside and out after a cleaning. Never had a single issue. I get the chamber temp to 400 degrees for hours and do nothing else. Smoker works better than the day I bought it. It's a smoker, it's not a car.
Another good oil to consider for the cooking chamber is mineral oil. It has a flashpoint of 250 degrees Fahrenheit similar to flax seed oil. I get mineral oil from Walmart for around $2US. Mineral oil doesn’t smell bad and it won’t turn rancid. I use canola oil on the firebox as well. Thanks for the video. Great information as usual. Cheers!
Thank you so much for this video, I followed this on my very first smoker which happened to be raw raw steel. By the end of the day i had a finish that was almost smooth as glass, even had a little reflection in it, beautiful so far. Oh yeah, rained the next day and the water just beaded and ran off of it
Just sent an email to Mike @Smoke North about this very same issue, i'm not pleased with how my seasoning turned out after a few months, and was wondering why. Now i know. great video, thank you
In this case where you are running the fire box at around 600°F, would that temperature remove or burn the seasoning that you already had in your Firebox? Thanks for all your good content, IMO the best BBQ channel.
As always, thanks for sharing your experiences. I wonder how difficult it would be for the manufacturer to do this as part of the build process. Particularly on the base and before it is completely assembled. And if it would just be cost prohibitive, offer it as an option to purchase. Just a thought.
Great timing for this video, as I'm going to be seasoning a new pipe steel grill over the winter - which won't be seasoned. The good thing is, I'll be building the fire in the cooking chamber - just have to make sure I don't get this thing over 600F and burn off the seasoning. Will have to try to get a good seasoning on it when I get it, and hope it hold pretty decently until it warms up in late spring - likely around mid to late April... At worst, I can get the outside of the chamber up to 200-225F, apply the oil, then kiss it with the torch gun to get the polymerization started. Great tip on torching the legs - as I was thinking that's what I'm going to have to do to make sure they don't rust over. ...even better tip on the using foil to protect the wheels. for that quick blast. I was wondering how much you had to blast the legs with heat - apparently not too much, which is good.
This video is going to help a ton of people over the years. Great job breaking it down. I have a custom built gravity fed smoker and was wondering how to season the internal cook chamber? Was thinking of using something like coconut oil but I'm not entirely sure. Any recommendations or suggestions? I've considered Flaxseed oil but I've read a lot of reviews talking about flaking and cracking.
Smoking Dad - the gold standard is to use linseed oil because it forms a protective shell when heat is applied and doesn't get tacky like most oils would on a smoker. The challenge is to find food safe linseed oil. Many people on BBQ forums (and fabricators) use boiled linseed oil. This is a mistake. The stuff is nasty. You want “polymerized” linseed oil. The main advantage of the polymerized version is that it is food safe and does not contain any of the toxic drying agents and industrial solvents found in boiled linseed oil. The other advantage is that polymerized linseed oil has already been halfway “cooked” (heat treated under vacuum to above its flashpoint) so that it cures faster. The only brand I know of in US is called Tried and True Danish Oil. I've emailed the guys there and there were very helpful. However, the downside of linseed oil is that you need to be very careful about disposal since the rags and combust as many a woodworker can attest to! Keep up the great videos!
Linseed oil and flaxseed oil share the same smoke point (225F) - and the both create the same polymerized protective coating. All oil, when applied with the right heat, bringing it to the smoke point, will polymerize and form your "protective shell". That's what the polymerization does with every oil. What you don't want is to apply the oil with too little heat, or TOO much heat, as SD explained. You'll get that gummy mess that difficult to get rid, and doesn't prevent corrosion/rust. Smoking Dad literally spelled it all out for you in this video.
@@craigjohnchronicles2504 I am talking about polymerized linseed oil, which has already been “halfway cooked” which saves much time versus raw flaxseed oil. The oxidation reaction can be very slow when working with raw flax oil. Since polymerized linseed oil has already partially oxidized, half of the work is already done. It is faster curing on wood than raw or “boiled” linseed oils and, in this case, on hot metal. With much less oxidation required for it to cure then there is much less smoke and time required for it to complete. Try it some time.
Great video! Yeah I of course made the same mistake with my Gen 2 Carlisle by using all canola oil for the whole offset and ended up with that tacky finish on the chamber. I’m wondering if I can use some mild dish soap and a sponge to get it off and redo the seasoning properly. Luckily, I keep my offset in the garage so I’m not rushing to reseason it. James, you should do another seasoning video of your Gen 2 Huron and show step by step how you handle the tacky surface and show us a before and after of the overall process.
Indeed, you do mention that in this video. I’ll try it out. Still would be nice to see the Gen 2 Huron get the full treatment as well, makes for a nice before and after comparison!
James - great video. I am shopping for a new offset smoker and am seriously considering the Smoke North and was wondering why no one else has reviewed them. Seems as they are top tier for sure but wanted to feel good about a purchase of that magnitude.
I’m not saying your wrong. I saw the Weber summit and slow n sear basket video. Just making a consideration. VHT makes a high heat clear coat spray. So does DuPont. I just seasoned a cast iron pan a few months ago. I had that sticky feeling and the paper towel fibers stuck to it. I used the black stone griddle conditioner (stunk up the whole apartment). I decided to use the pan and not start over. The stickiness went away. I also have a habit of cleaning the cast iron before I use it. I spread oil around the cooking surface after cooking and cleaning. When I use the cast iron again. I do not feel it is ok to just let it heat up. Then throw food on it. I let it heat up. Then use a damp rag to get off any oil I applied from the last cleaning. It seems more work than stainless steel. Having to let it heat up and cool down before and after. It is easy to just wipe. I also thank that. The dark color is hiding food that is not visible to the naked eye. Any bodies reply will be appreciated. Am I using the cast iron wrong?
If your pan was sticky and then has become less sticky that’s because the oil with more heat cycles polymerized eventually. On a pan indoors this is no big deal as the sticky surface doesn’t attract dust and bugs etc. if oil isn’t polymerized there is normally one of two issues … not enough heat to pass through smoke point and or two much oil to form the molecular bond that feels hard and smooth to the touch
Thanks for this. I've got a 12" Stargazer and a couple carbon steel pans I need to strip and re-season, just haven't decided how to strip them yet. Electrolysis looks promising. If I had an offset or a firepit, putting them on a dying coal bed seems like it'd do it.
Warm your Stargazer to 200 degrees or so. Add a very thin coating of grapeseed oil and put in a 450 degree oven for a hour and then let cool in oven. Besure to AL foil under your skillet to keep the oil off your oven. I did this three times. Everytime I cook with my Stargazer, I clean with hot water, dry, heat the pan to 300 degrees and wipe with grapeseed oil. Turn off stove when it starts to smoke and give final wipe. You will get that nonstick surface quickly.
@@Keith80027 I know how to season. But the seasoning on there is flaking off so it needs to be stripped and reseasoned. An oven’s self clean would do it, but it would likely stink up the house, so I don’t want to do that.
You can burn off flaking seasoning. Do you have a LP grill outside that you could us? I used coarse salt with a paper towel to remove my bad seasoning on my Stargazer pan. @@praetorxyn
Hello, Thank you for the video. Would you use this method on a NEW PAINTED cabinet style cooker with an angled elevated hood with Santa Maria grill? Is beef tallow a good choice? Thanks for your help
No way to clean below the baffle but not sure you need to as it’s just the path of air / food can’t get there. The grate slide out and you can scrap off anything that didn’t drain out the valve
This is a great video on the very topic I was wondering about. So I season my cast iron almost every time I use it to keep a good seasoning. You said three or four seasoning will get you through the winter, but do you add another seasoning every month or two or is this just once a year task?
What about seasoning the inside? I bought canola for that. My exterior is painted. Would you still season the outside of a painted unit? Thanks for all your content!
What you can do is while the thing is still cold but sorta warm like in the sun wipe it down with bees wax all of it then heat it up the metal will absorb the bees wax and create a semi permanent rust protection do this once a year in spring and it will eventually become permanent.
Look if you want to get this involved and detail oriented knock yourselfs out. Way over kill IMO. I've been charcoal grilling and smoking for 45 years. I use spray canola oil inside and out for new grills and reseasoniing. Then a hot bake for 3-4 hours repeat spraying the cast iron grates 2-3 times. Works great. Cover is a good investment. I do a deep clean....vacuuming and whiping out the iinterior.....at least once a year.
![What Kind Of Clear Coat To Use For A Smoker [PitMaster Secrets Podcast: ep. 3-8]](/img/n.gif)
I have had my smoker for 24 years and use PAM twice a year on mine inside and out after a cleaning. Never had a single issue. I get the chamber temp to 400 degrees for hours and do nothing else. Smoker works better than the day I bought it. It's a smoker, it's not a car.
Sorry if I missed it but what about the inside of the fire box and cook chamber?
Another good oil to consider for the cooking chamber is mineral oil. It has a flashpoint of 250 degrees Fahrenheit similar to flax seed oil. I get mineral oil from Walmart for around $2US. Mineral oil doesn’t smell bad and it won’t turn rancid. I use canola oil on the firebox as well. Thanks for the video. Great information as usual. Cheers!
Thanks for confirming all my struggles. Could you do video on how you clean up that mess and rust that occurs due to the bad oil seasoning.
Thank you so much for this video, I followed this on my very first smoker which happened to be raw raw steel. By the end of the day i had a finish that was almost smooth as glass, even had a little reflection in it, beautiful so far. Oh yeah, rained the next day and the water just beaded and ran off of it
Well done sir!! Always wondered how to handle this, you did a great job explaining it!!
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you for taking the time to experiment and share the best method for seasoning. Hopefully your video will get lots of views.
Thanks
Do you season the interior cooking chamber the same way?
Just sent an email to Mike @Smoke North about this very same issue, i'm not pleased with how my seasoning turned out after a few months, and was wondering why.
Now i know.
great video, thank you
A little sos or mild sandpaper, wipe clean and redo will get you back to the finish you want
Will do !@@SmokingDadBBQ
In this case where you are running the fire box at around 600°F, would that temperature remove or burn the seasoning that you already had in your Firebox?
Thanks for all your good content, IMO the best BBQ channel.
Thanks for verifying my thoughts on a recent seasoning of my COS. Luckily it is designed for fire inside the cook chamber so i did that.
That’s a good way to get some heat in the chamber too
As always, thanks for sharing your experiences. I wonder how difficult it would be for the manufacturer to do this as part of the build process. Particularly on the base and before it is completely assembled. And if it would just be cost prohibitive, offer it as an option to purchase. Just a thought.
It comes with a base coat vs pure raw as otherwise it would rust almost immediately
Great timing for this video, as I'm going to be seasoning a new pipe steel grill over the winter - which won't be seasoned. The good thing is, I'll be building the fire in the cooking chamber - just have to make sure I don't get this thing over 600F and burn off the seasoning. Will have to try to get a good seasoning on it when I get it, and hope it hold pretty decently until it warms up in late spring - likely around mid to late April... At worst, I can get the outside of the chamber up to 200-225F, apply the oil, then kiss it with the torch gun to get the polymerization started.
Great tip on torching the legs - as I was thinking that's what I'm going to have to do to make sure they don't rust over. ...even better tip on the using foil to protect the wheels. for that quick blast. I was wondering how much you had to blast the legs with heat - apparently not too much, which is good.
This video is going to help a ton of people over the years. Great job breaking it down.
I have a custom built gravity fed smoker and was wondering how to season the internal cook chamber? Was thinking of using something like coconut oil but I'm not entirely sure. Any recommendations or suggestions? I've considered Flaxseed oil but I've read a lot of reviews talking about flaking and cracking.
Smoking Dad - the gold standard is to use linseed oil because it forms a protective shell when heat is applied and doesn't get tacky like most oils would on a smoker.
The challenge is to find food safe linseed oil. Many people on BBQ forums (and fabricators) use boiled linseed oil. This is a mistake. The stuff is nasty. You want “polymerized” linseed oil. The main advantage of the polymerized version is that it is food safe and does not contain any of the toxic drying agents and industrial solvents found in boiled linseed oil. The other advantage is that polymerized linseed oil has already been halfway “cooked” (heat treated under vacuum to above its flashpoint) so that it cures faster.
The only brand I know of in US is called Tried and True Danish Oil. I've emailed the guys there and there were very helpful.
However, the downside of linseed oil is that you need to be very careful about disposal since the rags and combust as many a woodworker can attest to! Keep up the great videos!
Linseed oil and flaxseed oil share the same smoke point (225F) - and the both create the same polymerized protective coating.
All oil, when applied with the right heat, bringing it to the smoke point, will polymerize and form your "protective shell". That's what the polymerization does with every oil. What you don't want is to apply the oil with too little heat, or TOO much heat, as SD explained. You'll get that gummy mess that difficult to get rid, and doesn't prevent corrosion/rust.
Smoking Dad literally spelled it all out for you in this video.
@@craigjohnchronicles2504 I am talking about polymerized linseed oil, which has already been “halfway cooked” which saves much time versus raw flaxseed oil. The oxidation reaction can be very slow when working with raw flax oil. Since polymerized linseed oil has already partially oxidized, half of the work is already done. It is faster curing on wood than raw or “boiled” linseed oils and, in this case, on hot metal. With much less oxidation required for it to cure then there is much less smoke and time required for it to complete. Try it some time.
Great video! Yeah I of course made the same mistake with my Gen 2 Carlisle by using all canola oil for the whole offset and ended up with that tacky finish on the chamber. I’m wondering if I can use some mild dish soap and a sponge to get it off and redo the seasoning properly. Luckily, I keep my offset in the garage so I’m not rushing to reseason it. James, you should do another seasoning video of your Gen 2 Huron and show step by step how you handle the tacky surface and show us a before and after of the overall process.
I just used some steel wool and mild sandpaper to remove it and wiped it clean before starting again.
Indeed, you do mention that in this video. I’ll try it out. Still would be nice to see the Gen 2 Huron get the full treatment as well, makes for a nice before and after comparison!
James - great video. I am shopping for a new offset smoker and am seriously considering the Smoke North and was wondering why no one else has reviewed them. Seems as they are top tier for sure but wanted to feel good about a purchase of that magnitude.
I’m not saying your wrong. I saw the Weber summit and slow n sear basket video. Just making a consideration. VHT makes a high heat clear coat spray. So does DuPont. I just seasoned a cast iron pan a few months ago. I had that sticky feeling and the paper towel fibers stuck to it. I used the black stone griddle conditioner (stunk up the whole apartment). I decided to use the pan and not start over. The stickiness went away. I also have a habit of cleaning the cast iron before I use it. I spread oil around the cooking surface after cooking and cleaning. When I use the cast iron again. I do not feel it is ok to just let it heat up. Then throw food on it. I let it heat up. Then use a damp rag to get off any oil I applied from the last cleaning. It seems more work than stainless steel. Having to let it heat up and cool down before and after. It is easy to just wipe. I also thank that. The dark color is hiding food that is not visible to the naked eye. Any bodies reply will be appreciated. Am I using the cast iron wrong?
If your pan was sticky and then has become less sticky that’s because the oil with more heat cycles polymerized eventually.
On a pan indoors this is no big deal as the sticky surface doesn’t attract dust and bugs etc. if oil isn’t polymerized there is normally one of two issues … not enough heat to pass through smoke point and or two much oil to form the molecular bond that feels hard and smooth to the touch
Thanks for this. I've got a 12" Stargazer and a couple carbon steel pans I need to strip and re-season, just haven't decided how to strip them yet. Electrolysis looks promising. If I had an offset or a firepit, putting them on a dying coal bed seems like it'd do it.
Warm your Stargazer to 200 degrees or so. Add a very thin coating of grapeseed oil and put in a 450 degree oven for a hour and then let cool in oven. Besure to AL foil under your skillet to keep the oil off your oven. I did this three times. Everytime I cook with my Stargazer, I clean with hot water, dry, heat the pan to 300 degrees and wipe with grapeseed oil. Turn off stove when it starts to smoke and give final wipe. You will get that nonstick surface quickly.
@@Keith80027 I know how to season. But the seasoning on there is flaking off so it needs to be stripped and reseasoned. An oven’s self clean would do it, but it would likely stink up the house, so I don’t want to do that.
You can burn off flaking seasoning. Do you have a LP grill outside that you could us? I used coarse salt with a paper towel to remove my bad seasoning on my Stargazer pan. @@praetorxyn
I am looking at using linseed/flaxseed oil. But not the boiled version as it can have toxic additives.
I have been using Pam or many years. I have a white film and buildup on the outside. What is the best to remove the old Pam and do it your way?
Hello
What oil would you suggest for round bar grill/smoker grates?
Thanks
Do you spray oil in the inside of the smoker to prevent rust ?
Love the video…unfortunately I watched it after I did mine and I have the burn looking drops from too much oil…how can I fix this?
SOS pad and try again
Hello, Thank you for the video. Would you use this method on a NEW PAINTED cabinet style cooker with an angled elevated hood with Santa Maria grill? Is beef tallow a good choice? Thanks for your help
beef tallow yes, but you gotta remove all the shiny metal peices or youll get those purple heat marks on it
Very informative video, James.
thanks!
Ha you must be psychic, I've been doing a burn and season on mine this morning 😊
right on
I live in the Netherlands, and here a got myself some cannes of Crisco. This turned out great for me! Should i use something else?
That’s fine as it’s got a similar 490f smoke point
Mine looks worse than you smoker that has the grass/air debris/dust ....any tips on cleaning/reseasoning?
Good info, thanks James!
You bet!
On your reverse flow, how do you clean the top of the baffle plate ? How do you clean under the baffle plate ?
No way to clean below the baffle but not sure you need to as it’s just the path of air / food can’t get there.
The grate slide out and you can scrap off anything that didn’t drain out the valve
This is a great video on the very topic I was wondering about. So I season my cast iron almost every time I use it to keep a good seasoning. You said three or four seasoning will get you through the winter, but do you add another seasoning every month or two or is this just once a year task?
The firebox I do monthly. The chamber I only bother in warm months as it just doesn’t work as well below freezing
just wondering if your going to do anymore reverse flow offset videos? Anyways I really enjoy your content.
Yes I have a beef rib speed test in the reverse flow side by side with the direct flow in a week and a half
That should be a good one! can’t wait. Thanks you!
What about seasoning the inside? I bought canola for that. My exterior is painted. Would you still season the outside of a painted unit? Thanks for all your content!
I do enough briskets and ribs that the inside isn’t rusting / seasoned from cooking
What you can do is while the thing is still cold but sorta warm like in the sun wipe it down with bees wax all of it then heat it up the metal will absorb the bees wax and create a semi permanent rust protection do this once a year in spring and it will eventually become permanent.
I’ve not tried that before
I want a method that doesn't lead to the smoker being covered in dirt and dust sticking to the oils on the exterior.
Will this work with pre painted type offsets?
No you want high heat grill paint for those
Look if you want to get this involved and detail oriented knock yourselfs out. Way over kill IMO. I've been charcoal grilling and smoking for 45 years. I use spray canola oil inside and out for new grills and reseasoniing. Then a hot bake for 3-4 hours repeat spraying the cast iron grates 2-3 times. Works great. Cover is a good investment. I do a deep clean....vacuuming and whiping out the iinterior.....at least once a year.
just curious - you don't oil the inside of your main cook chamber?
i do enough briskets and ribs its seasoned naturally and doesn't rust so i haven't bothered.... high heat oils won't cure inside either
Calling out Jeremy Yoder I see lol.
You say tin foil,will aluminum foil work
Yes same thing
Cheaaaaaa !!
Cheers
Woof woof. But that seasoning does not taste good
lol nope. Not this one