Slightly different on my 2.3 Tacoma but the system is the same using a nut and allen key. Had a low idle that was stalling out. Now it's perfect. Thanks a mil.
I have not; sounds like the IAC or maybe a vacuum leak. Those vacuum leaks are hard to find unless they are really big; spritzing water is a good way to find a vacuum leak. I installed the throttle body gasket upside down and had a big leak and it ran like trash!
It is called the throttle opener. The service manual says to disconnect the hose on the left which will keep the open fully extended which keeps the throttle body slightly open. The engine rpm should be between 1,200 to 1,500 rpm. I do not think it is adjustable. I only adjusted the bolt that would effect the throttle body minimum position once the engine is running. I’ll go take a look later and see if the opener is adjustable or if it can be replaced without replacing the whole throttle body. Send me your contact info if you want a page out of the service manual.
@@AD-kq2nxSpark plugs, HT leads/plug connectors, or even coil packs. It will present more readily when you stomp the accelerator. Weird idle (overly high or low), check IAC. Also check the EVAP canister vacuum is still hooked up and not leaking - this leads to ‘lumpy’ idle, not bogging down on accelerating though.
I don't believe that is the intent of the set screw and yes we are probably masking some other issue. This truck has always shook in "D" at a stop but recently (last 7 years) it has been really bad. I'm going back to stock motor mounts and seeing if that is the issue. From the way I see it we are just setting the resting point of the throttle. It starts with it at a more open position to get a lot of air in on startup but once it gets compression it pulls the diaphragm back and rests on that set screw.
@@craigphillips1047It’s interesting to think of the differences between fuel injected and carbureted engines when it comes to choke plate mechanisms. In carburettor engines the choke plate is above venturis. When the choke is closed, it causes faster air flow and consequently a low pressure area in the venturis whichs draws out additional fuel. The rich mixture is easier to ignite when the engine is cold. In fuel injection, the IAC allows more air to the engine and the ECU compensates by adding additional fuel to make a rich mixture.
@@craigphillips1047You should actually clean the IAC valve though as it can cause these symptoms. Also if the vacuum line has come off the EGR canister or you’ve deleted this system without blocking off the tube leaving a vacuum leak it’ll idle low and rough. This video shows the set but it was actually just the IAC. czcams.com/video/GVWCCjZBfGM/video.htmlsi=mMJ1Pk1_Jm8czBjI He just replaced but I have a few dodgy old videos showing that you can can them free them off again
Hey mine is mostly stock but for some reason it crackles and pops on decel and if I hit the limiter it sounds like gunshots going off, not sure if I should be concerned as to why my engine is dumping gas into the exhaust
hey Craig I have a 1998 Toyota 4runner with the 2.7l, right now I'm having an issue were I cant accelerate past 3000prm with out the motor sputtering and missing, I've done maf sensor spark plugs coils and wires, i recently replaced the fuel regulator and plan to do the fuel filter, (mine is located under my intake manifold), if you have any ideas i would be really thankful, I've been restoring this for my family
@@Alpha_Wolf.Can be any manner of things but I’d do check all that he did r.e. ignition (could be fouled plugs, cracked plug boots or HT leads - check with a water mist at night is sometimes a good test for leads; or look for any signs of oil around the boots as this deteriorate the silicone rubber) Ignition problems may or may not cause enough of a misfire for the ECU to throw a code. I’d also check and clean the MAF. Check for downstream vacuum leaks in the air connector. Check proper function of the IAC (a pain to get to but free - see my videos). Next would be coil packs. Then probably O2 sensors. A good diagnostic OBDII reader quickly pays for itself. ThinkCar have a few good models at various price points.
@@petergiacomantonio7194 check fuel pump, i had an issue recently on a 3rz where the vehicle wouldn’t go past 3000-4000, engine sputtering. when i replaced the pump it was back to its glory.
Slightly different on my 2.3 Tacoma but the system is the same using a nut and allen key. Had a low idle that was stalling out. Now it's perfect. Thanks a mil.
Glad it helped!
Have you had any problems with having the rpms of the vehicle idle up and down dramatically only while at a stop?
I have not; sounds like the IAC or maybe a vacuum leak. Those vacuum leaks are hard to find unless they are really big; spritzing water is a good way to find a vacuum leak. I installed the throttle body gasket upside down and had a big leak and it ran like trash!
I just replaced mine it helped
What is the name of the thing 1:41 the plunger where you pulled? and how to adjust it's gap?
Thanks
It is called the throttle opener. The service manual says to disconnect the hose on the left which will keep the open fully extended which keeps the throttle body slightly open. The engine rpm should be between 1,200 to 1,500 rpm. I do not think it is adjustable. I only adjusted the bolt that would effect the throttle body minimum position once the engine is running. I’ll go take a look later and see if the opener is adjustable or if it can be replaced without replacing the whole throttle body. Send me your contact info if you want a page out of the service manual.
This guy does it. An Allen 8mm and a lock nut
czcams.com/video/GVWCCjZBfGM/video.htmlsi=mMJ1Pk1_Jm8czBjI
Hi, how much should be the distance between throttle and Air sensor
If you still need this I will go measure, I would be curious what the stock position is... I can go look in the manual.
Mine chops like it has a cam then it settles down smooth then bogs when I take off, but then doest do it after a Drive and stop and go, idk anymore
Any luck? Mine is choppy off the start and doesn't stop.
@@AD-kq2nxSee above.
@@AD-kq2nxSpark plugs, HT leads/plug connectors, or even coil packs. It will present more readily when you stomp the accelerator.
Weird idle (overly high or low), check IAC.
Also check the EVAP canister vacuum is still hooked up and not leaking - this leads to ‘lumpy’ idle, not bogging down on accelerating though.
ever figure out the problems?
About to change the harmonic balancer and see if that gives a smoother idle
i have rough idle at red light in D, everyone tells me not to adjust that
I don't believe that is the intent of the set screw and yes we are probably masking some other issue. This truck has always shook in "D" at a stop but recently (last 7 years) it has been really bad. I'm going back to stock motor mounts and seeing if that is the issue. From the way I see it we are just setting the resting point of the throttle. It starts with it at a more open position to get a lot of air in on startup but once it gets compression it pulls the diaphragm back and rests on that set screw.
@@craigphillips1047It’s interesting to think of the differences between fuel injected and carbureted engines when it comes to choke plate mechanisms.
In carburettor engines the choke plate is above venturis. When the choke is closed, it causes faster air flow and consequently a low pressure area in the venturis whichs draws out additional fuel. The rich mixture is easier to ignite when the engine is cold.
In fuel injection, the IAC allows more air to the engine and the ECU compensates by adding additional fuel to make a rich mixture.
@@craigphillips1047You should actually clean the IAC valve though as it can cause these symptoms. Also if the vacuum line has come off the EGR canister or you’ve deleted this system without blocking off the tube leaving a vacuum leak it’ll idle low and rough. This video shows the set but it was actually just the IAC.
czcams.com/video/GVWCCjZBfGM/video.htmlsi=mMJ1Pk1_Jm8czBjI
He just replaced but I have a few dodgy old videos showing that you can can them free them off again
Hit me up on any questions you have!
Hey mine is mostly stock but for some reason it crackles and pops on decel and if I hit the limiter it sounds like gunshots going off, not sure if I should be concerned as to why my engine is dumping gas into the exhaust
hey Craig I have a 1998 Toyota 4runner with the 2.7l, right now I'm having an issue were I cant accelerate past 3000prm with out the motor sputtering and missing, I've done maf sensor spark plugs coils and wires, i recently replaced the fuel regulator and plan to do the fuel filter, (mine is located under my intake manifold), if you have any ideas i would be really thankful, I've been restoring this for my family
@@aaronpoznick6785did u have any luck solving the issue?
@@Alpha_Wolf.Can be any manner of things but I’d do check all that he did r.e. ignition (could be fouled plugs, cracked plug boots or HT leads - check with a water mist at night is sometimes a good test for leads; or look for any signs of oil around the boots as this deteriorate the silicone rubber) Ignition problems may or may not cause enough of a misfire for the ECU to throw a code. I’d also check and clean the MAF. Check for downstream vacuum leaks in the air connector. Check proper function of the IAC (a pain to get to but free - see my videos). Next would be coil packs. Then probably O2 sensors.
A good diagnostic OBDII reader quickly pays for itself. ThinkCar have a few good models at various price points.
@@petergiacomantonio7194 check fuel pump, i had an issue recently on a 3rz where the vehicle wouldn’t go past 3000-4000, engine sputtering. when i replaced the pump it was back to its glory.
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