Making a Larger Table for the Radial Drill
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- čas přidán 25. 07. 2024
- The Radial Drill is an extremely versatile machine, but I didn't have enough table to support the next job. So, it's time to build one.
The upcoming job is to drill and countersink some AR500 plate, but the standard table on the Carlton Radial Drill just won't handle the job.
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That's an incredibly intelligent way to built a radial drill table. Forks on your forklift can easily move plates/parts on and off, tons of room for chips to build up without affecting accuracy (not that they should- but we've all had those late nights where we just wanted to get done), and it's simple. I'll have to steal that idea when I get my new shop built
Nice and substantially built. Great to see a radial arm drill being used on YT. An extremely rare sight.
Thank you. I've been told for years a radial drill isn't worth wasting the floor space, I 100% disagree. They are so versatile in the right hands.
I have a 2' Arboga radial, I think its a better drill than the same Arboga head on the standard pillar drill base.
@@dutchgray86 wow, 2'! I don't think I've ever seen one that small.
my lord your drills cut like butter, you must have them sharp as could be and the correct speeds and feeds, cheers!
as one commenter mentioned, you do not see many videos on using a Radial Drill....
you make it look so easy.....Bravo
It really is easy. They are an amazing and underrated machine.
I found a 9" X 3' radial drill that is still in good shape but still has one more difficult problem to fix. The other obstacle is getting used to using one as they were once used.for a wider variety of work in the past. I am looking forward to easier large hole drilling anyway. Great video, thanks.
Nice little bit of light fabrication.
Hi Josh. I was surprised that you broke out the machinist jacks for support on the Bridgeport. I thought that the supports that you machined with the top surface matching the height of your vise base would have been perfect for this application. I made a one of those supports for each of my vises based on your previous video and I find them really handy.
Thanks for the time and effort that you put into these videos. I learn from each one. Tom
That one is on the other bridgeport. I haven't built one yet that matches this vise. Maybe eventually.
Really like the banding material for parallel spring.
It's such a cheap and easy trick.
nice to see you at almost 100k subs, i remember when i think you were at 10k, thanks for the content and keep up the great work
I can't believe I made it this far. Pretty cool. Thanks for sticking with me.
Seeing you in an easy chair would be cool.
Nicely done!
I think radial drills and shapers are the most underrated machines in the workshops. But if you operate them corectly, they can do magic at very low cost.
Absolutely. When utilized to their potential, they are absolute money makers.
Excellent solution. Radial drills, shapers and horizontal boring machines are often undervalued. Great machines for doing big jobs. Enjoyed the video, as always. Thanks very much, Josh.
Thank you Josh!
It is always good to see you. I used to work in steel fabrication shop but it was mostly sheet metal. You work with heavy stuff. You sure do not show mercy on those drills when you made the holes. I am glad that your project worked out. I used to cut AR material for some Case parts; the laser focus had to be right in order to cut it. Thanks for the video. You are always interesting to watch and informative. Good job on the video and the project. My back hurts just watching you.
Very well done. Thanks for sharing 👍
Nicely done Josh ❤❤.
Nice addition to expand the capability of the tool - simple and effective. Relatively inexpensive - not that steel is exactly cheap these days. The bridgeport cuts through that steel like butter. Lovely.
It was about $400 in material. Maybe a little more. Not cheap, but definitely worked great.
That is a very cool project and it turned out great. I am looking forward to seeing it in use
Great honest to God, honest machining. Great content Josh !!
Turned out great Josh! 👍👍
Nicely done Josh, its always amazing and informative watching you machining and fabricating in a day to day buisness . You really show your skill level when time is money and their are deadlines to meet.
Great video love watching thanks for sharing
I like that you don't have a $100k sponsored tapping arm in your shop to tap holes with like some other machining youtubers.
Waste of money right there. My $1200 radial drill does the same job, if not better.
You are soooooooo correct sir
Nothing wrong with "power tapping" each hole with the Radial (or Bridgeport's quill power feed) just after drilling. Sure a lot of tool changes, but at least you know your in the correct position and secure for each hole!
Absolutely, let's rid CZcams of anyone showing modern machining techniques. After all, who needs innovation and progress? Let's stick to hammer and chisel, maintaining the time-honored tradition of taking eons to craft a single part. Forget about sharing knowledge that could revolutionize industries, improve efficiency, or - heaven forbid - make our lives easier. We certainly can't have people learning and evolving; where's the fun in that? Let's ensure the wheel is reinvented daily, preserving the sacred art of doing things the hard way. Progress? Overrated!
@@valkman761 I am not opposed to modern techniques, but when the modern equipment is 100% based on old technology that can be had for almost pennies, why waste the money? Like I said earlier, my $1200 radial drill does the same job of a flex arm for tapping, if not better because it is far more rigid. Plus, the radial drill can do way more than just tap holes. Having said that, there are machines and technology that has been developed in the last 20 years that is truly amazing and far more capable than ever dreamt. For my shop, this modern technology would be a waste because I don't do production of any kind. I farm all of that work out to CNC shops with the capabilities I don't. I know the day of the manual shop is coming to an end, and I hope I can retire doing just what I am doing. As I am the last shop of my kind in this region, I still get plenty of work. Infact, 35% of my customers are CNC shops. They send work to me because I am better suited to do it. Again, I have no problem with modern technology and advancements, I just have a problem with wasting money on unnecessary equipment.
hello josh it's is Randy and i like yours video is cool Thanks Josh Friends Randy
Great job for a very useful tool add-on! BTW - Great idea on the shots of tapping from underneath. Lovely to see the end of the tap coming out of the hole. Very satisfying!
Nice job 👍
Good stuff
Good work, Josh. Getting those holes to line up over that much distance is very difficult. I would have had to wallow out the through hole! 😊 I enjoy the variety of topics and your straight forward delivery of information. Thank you,
Always liked radial drills, single lever to lock is a great feature, plus rotate in reverse to centre on pilot or centre pop 👌.
On the largest radial drill, there was a 5 metre or 16 feet or so pit in front for beams, covered by a steel cover, always cold standing on it, even with a wooden Duck Board.
Great shop engineering as always Josh, nicely done.
Thanks for sharing.
No nonsense machining, love it! Only found your vids recently but i look forward to every upload now. Keep it up Josh!
Welcome aboard!
You should put a DRO on that radial arm drill.
I am so impressed at how hard make your machines work. As a hobby machinist with low grade hobby machines I wouldn’t dare try to make my machines work that hard.
Push hard or go broke. Machines are designed to work, but are also a consumable.
I was about to say the same thing, time is money, the machines are made to work let them do what they are designed to do. In terms of pushing hard, most people don’t use anywhere enough pressure when drilling… especially for the larger drills you need that pressure to get a chip and keep it sharp. Rubbing = dulling. Now try drilling in a material that work hardens, if you don’t push hard you won’t make it through the hole
This is why decent drilling machines have power feeds, you really can't push very large diameter drills hard enough by hand in most cases.
The difference between a professional and a hobbiest: A professional will expend resources to save time, and a hobbiest will expend time to save resources. As he said, a machine is a consumable.
Not just on the BP, on the lathe moving metal is key to paying the bills, This means using negative rake inserts with big broken hot blue chips per pass, then finishing with the correct finishing tool. Inserts are pushed to their rated SFM limits, anything less means being less productive. This is one of the differences between hobby machine tools vs industrial machine tools and how they are used.
This is also why buying a hard used industrial machine tool is often a project machine tool as they are usually worn good once the working shop s ready to move the machine on.
Really nice, I’ve always thought for the size of the radial arm drill you have, it had a very small table.
Good one mate
New favourite machine shop channel!
Glad you enjoy it!
HD, Heavy Duty Josh.
Great Idea for a large table.
You certainly can run the Carlton efficiently!!.
Nice work.
Have a great day.
good idea to expand the drill table in this way. but you will notice that those 3 protruding iron bars will cause you a lot of pain if you "accidentally" bump into them for a moment
I have already considered that. It has been removed and stored awaiting the next job. But, I bet that would really hurt.
Great build Topper. I need a radial arm drill !
no, of course I don't, I can dream though
I love the radial. Great machine if you can utilize it. Most people don't know how to use them to their potential.
I like the intersection of “let’s see what I screwed up” and “do it right the first time”.
It went so well that I figured something would be messed up.
Great idea and great job! I shudder to think what a large add-on table would cost for that Carlton, but it has to be over 10 grand.
Maybe your next product offering is large add-on tables for drills, mills, etc. A side job revenue source for in-between times. Just a thought.
That AnchorLube sure beats flood coolant cleanup. Thanks for letting us watch, Josh. Have a good weekend. Cheers.
Love me, some anchor lube❤. Josh is kind of a cool guy.😊
I don't know if there would be much market for them, but it sure worked well. Anchorlube is some amazing stuff. Not cheap, but worth every penny.
I can’t believe you said next week😂 I can’t hold my breath for that long😅 why not live stream of a full process of drilling a plate😮❤
I have to space it out. I don't have enough time to film, edit and upload jobs all the time. I wish I could.
Once you have a RAD there is no end to the things you can do, I ran a 13 inch column drill with about a 6'arm. loved the tool chuck set up would go from a center drill to a though hole drill to a tap all with out moving the head. they will make a lot of chips when you run a 1 1/2 or 2" drill though big steel. looking forward to next week.
I bought some Anchor Lube awhile back because many larger creators use it, but I’m not impressed. Makes no difference tapping or cutting anything except for tapping cast iron. It does work well for that.
In regular run of the mill steels, it has no real benefit over oil other than the smoke. On hard materials such as tool steels, AR, stainless, 4140 pre hard, it's amazing. I've switched away from oil all around. To each their own.
Envy your equipment and talent.
Hi Josh I like what you do with the machines you have and don't baby them they are tools to work and make money all cool to watch. I read your post about negative comments and I have heard other you tuber's and how they treat them most just delete them and move on. If I don't like a channel I don't watch it and I will not comment in any way, these people that seam to always have to comment in a negative way they must have the most crap life around. There are way more likers of your channel than detractors so my advise is delete them block them if they come back and have a little chuckle at what a waste of space they are.
Thank you. I agree. They are a waste of space on this earth.
Nice to be able to drill and tap on the Radial arm. Not sure I follow the reasoning behind doing part of the work on the bridgeport. Handling those heavy members by hand was a lot of extra work.
Thanks for sharing.
It was all for accuracy. By drilling on the BP, I held a tolerance that kept the parts square in final assembly. I knew I couldn't get that squareness just laying it out and drilling.
Every Die shop I've ever been in has a set of bars on the radial arm box for drilling, reaming and tapping large die sets. It's pretty much an industry standard. It makes the radial arm much more usable.
Interesting. I've never seen another one before.
@@TopperMachineLLC when stamping was a huge industry here in the Nashville area, every Die shop had a couple of Carlton's or American Hole Wizards with rails. Then they started buying large VMC's.
This looks safer than the method I normally do for big plate where I lay it beside the drill on saw horses and 4x4 blocks. Of course doing it that way allows me to come beside the column so I can cover a full 4x8 sheet and not have to move it to get from end to end where as positioned on the base I only have 7ft of travel so can't catch a full plate there long ways like my table sits. I could turn it 90 but then I need support again. Back to the 4x4"s. :-)
I have been using anchorlube for years.I notice if you don't use it for a while it is hard to get out so I made a holder from a exhaust pipe to store it upside down
It seems to dry at the tip and make a hard plug. Squeezing harder just makes it erupt, this blowing it everywhere. Lol
In this video@ 10:48, the quill lock lever on the BP drops down, the constant nuance with the quill lock lever. Tip, put a small rare earth magnet on the 3/4" hex nut near the quil lock lever, the magnet will hold the quill lock lever in place preventing the nuance of that quill lock lever falling down when not needed.
It's always interesting seeing how others work.
I'd have revered the angle on the 2nd set of holes. For some reason my OCD mind likes things mirrored and in my mind, it would make it a stronger connection even though that's not likely a factor here.
Doing it your way however, the parts are reversible. You can have that all bolted while I’d still be swapping ends to get holes oriented properly.
I considered that approach, but went for simple. I actually almost drilled and reamed opposite for dowels. Lol.
I always loved using the Radial Drill at he shop I worked in....
drilling a 4 inch holier 4 inch A36 is not for your DeWalt 20 Volt
Drill Motor.....cheers, Paul in Florida....by the way,
great Idea on the table....
You're a long way from Texas where everything is bigger (apparently, as I'm in Australia). But that large fixture table looks like it will accommodate those large plates well. Looking forward to seeing the new fixture table in action.
It worked great. Video will be up next Saturday.
Seems like the entire operation could have been done on the radial drill. Mount your 2 main bars on some standoffs for drill clearance- lay out the the 3 bars and tack weld them all in place- lay out the holes- drill through for the for the tap size- drill through the top plates for the clearance holes, tap the holes , counter bore, knock the tacks loose, clean and bolt up.
It could have, but I was going for a higher level of precision on this. The holes were drilled close to the bolt size to make everything square and true to each other. If I didn't care about the squareness, I could have hacked it out
Good times. Got my start in machining running Old 6 foot arm Cincinnati's that were from the WW2 era. Great machines. Don't miss getting covered in coolant. 😂
I installed a 6' Carlton for a customer years back. What a beast. But it was dwarfed by the 8' Cincinnati Bickford next to it at the machine dealer. They also had a 12' hiding in the darkness of the warehouse, I only got a glimpse of it.
@TopperMachineLLC we had one that was an oddball 6.5 foot arm. It was a bit newer than the others. Never got work on any 8s. Didn't know they even made 12 footers. I guess it makes sense. An 8 footer would have been nice for some of our stuff. We did headers for the heat exchangers. Some of them would be just a bit too long, so you'd end up having to move everything and level it again.
@@mystiquesquared I saw a 20' or 24' listed online once. I can't remember for sure on the length, but just imagine a radial that big. My boring mill would fit under that arm with room to spare.
Wow this radial drill having a tap feature makes it really handy, didnt expect that. Some highend mills even from the 90s here in Europe dont have easy tapping capabilities
Not sure if you’re talking about the lever but that lever there’s something to it where it’s adjusting in a way where he’s able to press the drill while the handles at an angle 📐
what are you talking about? "tap feature"? He has a simply morse tap holder in the drill, you can use something like that in ANY drillpress/radial drill you name it (as long as it has enough power). There is no such thing as a "tap feature" on something as simple as a radial drill, the spindle moves in/out automatically with the pressure of the tap PULLING it down/up.
Where do people like you come up with these fairy tales all of the time?
@@FireGodSpeed Man, with tap feature I mean it has a reversible spindle. Most drill presses and older milling machines dont have reversible spindles.
All large industrial drills should have reverse. The clutched head is a must for tapping, you can gently switch direction. I ran one years ago at a company that wasn't clutched. They went through a lot of taps
@@Narwaro Then say that lol I used like 10 different radial drills and all of them had reversible spindles, so i thought that's normal.
Aswell as a reversible spindle can be used to drill with left handed drill bits to try and remove broken bolts, i personally use reverse when i have to center up on an existing hole with a larger drill, so purely a "tap feature" i wouldn't name it that.
Love the Chips ( that's why I watch ) . I think you need a Ratchet and deep socket. That wrench seems Slow.
I'm not a big fan of ratchets in the shop. Never have been. Impact guns either.
I've a lineshaft drive radial drill 9ft high......fast/loose pulleys runs off flat belts..
It'll swing a 5" drill at 36RPM
bullt by Wm. Asquith, Halifax, England just after WW1..
Good video
☹️🏴🇬🇧☹️
It might be a little awkward to do it now, but you could mill about 1/4" off the bottom of those two bottom rails to make a T profile, and they would self-align by dropping into the T slots. :-)
I considered that, and is still an option. But I want to fix that ugly table someday first.
Great build. I bet AR steel is hard to drill. Thanks for the video keep on keeping on.
It was another learning experience for sure. The video shows some big mistakes. Lol
Where i work i have to drill over sizes parts all the time and the table is about 18 inch by 22inch and got tired of drilling 4 hole then move the 16 feet flanges all the time so i built a 4x4 1/4 square tubing frame that has 4 hole for the t slots and now it only takes 3 setup to drilled 60 holes an 1"1/4 it takes about 7 hours to drilled the them things.
That'll do.
Morning Josh,
Another good one. Sweet and to the point, can't be any clearer. Having that larger table is going to be nice for sure...
OMG a big bright yellow orb in the sky this morning, and blue....@ 23F already.......WOW.....Almost went into shell shock. NO dumps of that white stuff forecast in the near future and that darn lil PA woodchuck predicted an early spring. Sure is nice NOT having to deal w all the plowing and snow blowing. Went to hit the thumbs up and doesn't seem to register it.....hmmmmmmmmm????
Don
It sure is bright out. I'm so thankful I got that snowblower, it's working wonders. If I have to buy one again next year to not have snow, I will. Odd about the like button.
This lil like button on the reply worked....the one on the main didnt and still doesnt seem to.....maybe those damn internet gremlins...LOL@@TopperMachineLLC
musta been a gremlin cuz now the thumbs up appears here....prob my connection
@@donteeple6124 can't trust computers as far as you can throw them. Actually you just can't trust them at all.
Computers and software - a whole product class that somehow has become acceptable to the world in general to be released in a completely unfinished and half assed state. Try getting away with selling anything else that only partially works and see what happens.
I saw you using anchor lube I saw a bunch of CZcamsrs using it so says to myself, myself let’s buy a case so I did and I’m not impressed. Especially using it for tapping which I believe is its claim to fame but it’s not good for tapping stainless steel! I snapped 3 taps before I switched back to my Modern Spartan Systems TVT GREEN machine cutting oil! This is not an ad the stuff is expensive but it works really well!!
I've been very happy with anchorlube. I've actually switched over to it exclusively, except for on the slotter where I use koolmist. I don't know what to tell you. It works great for me.
Ah yes, exercising the bigger machine.
Remove the metal from a drill press to drill holes on the bridgeport? Seems like a extra step
It was for the precision. I kept the tolerance tight to keep the table square.
I was thinking the same but that makes sense. I was wondering if you squared the rails up. Nice tip. Cheers
Mr. Topper? Is there a feature on the lever for the drill press where you’re able to adjust it?
It's a clutch, so you can feather it. I absolutely love clutched machines.
Those miniature jacks were interesting. I've never seen anything like that before. Did you buy them or make them?
I bought them. Just machinist jacks.
While you had the two linear pieces bolted to the table, why didn't you leave the cross pieces in place and drill both at the same time instead of going back and forth to the Bridgeport? The bolt holes would be perfectly aligned and a lot of extra work eliminated.
By using the BP I was able to ensure squareness when bolted together. That is the only reason I didn't drill it all on the radial. I wanted to ensure an accurate and square table. There would be no guarantee of squareness if drilled on the radial.
Josh: how many such holes should your drill do before it needs to be sharpened? And are you a freehander or jig user for the sharpening?
Depends on what you're drilling, lube, feed rate and speed. I freehand sharpen, not perfect but works.
I'd drill the top bars from the t slot rails no holes to build up chips in on top that way..
Good point. Maybe next time.
Looks like anchor lube works better than sulpherized cutting oil. No smoke. You were leaning on that quill pretty hard. Sacramento ca. company has advertized a big radial drill for months now. 4500. You move. I will finish watching this later top.
I'm impressed by anchorlube. Works amazingly well. $4500 seems steep to me. I paid $1200 for mine. The tool holders were worth that.
I wonder what anchor lube is made from, probably something from the polar bear , or penguin like toe nails ! It has to be something that is cold !🤣
Lol. I think it's ground up unicorn horn and flying pig wings. No matter what, it's amazing
At about 12 minutes in, how you used a sharpie to transfer marks over. My anxiety shot through the roof 😵💫
If it were me transferring drill spots and even using transfer punches, my holes would be way off. I’m gooder that way 🥴
The sharpie was only to show me placement, not accuracy. The DRO on the BP did the accuracy part. I was more concerned with drilling it backwards, having the mark made sure I didn't do that.
How do you sharpen your drills so that they cut without a pilot hole? The chisel edge on web won't normally cut at all. I was always taught, in metalwork at school and later as an apprentice, that I should drill a pilot hole so that the web of the next size drill up would be clear.
A lot of my drills are split point. I hand sharpen them back to a split point. On nonsplit point drills, force them to start and they generally go and hold pretty close on size.
@@TopperMachineLLC I did wonder if it was the case they were split point, never seen it on a larger drill personally. I do have a couple of sets going up to 13mm that are split point, but it was drummed into me so hard 50 odd years ago, that I still do a 4mm pilot for a 10mm drill, even with the split points. Really like what you do on your channel.
Hello Josh.
Two questions please.
Is the radial drill 5ft model?
Does it have a depth control feature on the quill?
Thank you. Great video!
4 foot arm and yes it does have depth settings.
Nice job. What was the cost of the steel? Thanks
Around $425.00 total build. But it's a lifetime update.
Transfer punch the holes with a punch the size of the holes would be more accurate than the sharpie mark?? Table will be nice addition to the shop. Disappointed to see that people before did not take care of the existing table and damaged it so much!
The sharpie was just to keep my orientation, center punching could have caused drill wander once in the BP. This table is extremely square the way I did it.
Hey Josh. I have 12 fixture plates that I had made out of AR plate. I have to countersync four holes on every corner. I've never worked with AR plate. What should I use to countersync these holes?
Carbide. Next week's video covers this exact problem.
@TopperMachineLLC awesome. I'll order a carbide countersync bit then. Thanks Josh. I love your channel man. You, Adam booth, this old Tony, and CEE are the best
"no need for a pilot hole" he says as he hangs off the drill press! Your back might appreciate a pilot hole even if the bridgeport doesn't care!
It may have looked like I was really pulling, but it really wasn't that bad.
Would you ever think about getting or want a VTL ?
A VTL/VBM is on my wish list, but this region doesn't have enough work to justify one. We are extremely economically depressed. Very little industry left.
Does Anchor Lube smell as good as Boelube when it starts to smoke?
It smells like almonds.
Since it a fixed fixture…. Would it been easier to just weld the top rail to the holding rails?
It most certainly would have been easier, but this is square and true. Also, the top rails are replaceable or removable as needed.
Question. When drilling on the Bridgeport. I see alot of people use the knee instead of the quill for large bits. Does it matter?
Yes and no. Depends on what you're trying to do. If your just drilling a no tolerance hole, quill is fine. If you need to hold tolerance knee. But in reality for tolerance drill and ream. After some time with a BP you learn their limitations and downfalls and overcome.
Why are we running huge drills in bridgeport when we have a radial drill press?😂
You must not have watched the video, because I explained why. And, these drills are far from huge. These are some of the smallest drills I use.
@@TopperMachineLLC tiny drills, way to big for the tiny quill of a Bridgeport. That's why most of the ones you see are clapped out.
@@randymagnum143 There is a lot of misconception about Bridgeports. If you know their limitations, you can use bigger tooling. I started in a tool and die shop with an old timer who used the BPs to their limits. We never wore one out. I have had this particular on for 14 years and use it beyond what is believed to be their limits. It still does close tolerance work(0.001" or less) on a daily basis. I am, however, in the market for a much more substantial mill. The HBM is just too big for most stuff, and the Cincinnati is still a little cumbersome for most work. Hopefully by the end of the year, I can get something much beefier and retire a few smaller machines.
@@TopperMachineLLC I run a 7" G&L all the time, I've set some pretty small jobs up on. The Die shop I apprenticed in had wore out Bridgeports, and ones that were used for fine work. You can do stupid stuff on one, or precision work. Not both. I have a Tree, it's a little stouter, but I'm still not drilling random holes and running a 4" face mill or anything.
I’m not a Bridgeport guy, but I see a lot of others raise the knee with power feed instead of putting that much muscle into the quill. Is that not a thing on yours or is it just faster?
Quill for drilling, knee for milling. Most BPs don't have power feed on the knee unless added. The quill can and will take a lot more than people think. I started out in a small tool and die shop with only a BP and you'd be amazed at what we did with that mill. I'm gentle in comparison.
Josh, You make the Bridgeport look small, how tall are you?
They are small, I'm 6'2"
sometimes simple is better
It didn't need to be stupidly overbuilt, but it did need to function. Simple was definitely the best option here.
shouldn't you have flipped the center bar end for end to get proper hole stager to get rid of any lack of rigidity, with them all staggered the same way in my mind you could still shift it (from the cameras view) right side up and down, (from your body view) top left to right ?. I very could be wrong just tryin visualize in my mind :) @ 13:40 Okay not always LOL :)
I considered that, but kept it simple. Another thought I had was drill and dowel opposite the bolts. That would ensure zero movement
how true is this thing?
A lot closer than one would think.
I milled a couple 2 foot square bars to have a step in a central slot running lengthwise, I can clamp parts down to any milling machine and effectively increase the t slot width on the machine to 24". I can angle them too. Probably one of the coolest things I've made in the shop. I've made a huge batch of parts on them and have also repaired a front truck axle with a bridgeport using them.
Awesome. It's amazing what you can do on a BP with a little creativity and planning. I'd love to see your bars if you could email me some pictures.
@@TopperMachineLLC I should patent them but Ill show you.
@@phalanyx3478 I appreciate it. Would be a great addition to my arsenal.
Not concerned about breaking a tap off in those deep holes ?
Not at all. Been doing this a long time, I don't break many taps.
If you truly believe in a product I can't blame you, I've noticed your ad placement by putting the Anchorlube bottle down with the label always facing the camera :)
Stipulations to get paid. Not cheap to make videos. That being said, I will never promote something I don't believe in. If it's a review video and the product is crap, I'll tell it like it is.
@@TopperMachineLLCI completely understand. I don't care for when they insert a home made video into the middle of their own videos, though I do understand stipulations to get paid right :) I still love your content :)