Thanks a TON! It worked, the water made all the difference. I got some cracks from it, but I smoothed them out while it was drying. Thanks again. Carolyn
Hi Paul. I'm a painter, and I became a fan of yours about 5 years ago when I did a small "painting" after viewing your "steps" video. Shortly after that, I went on my honeymoon, and my puppy-sitter fell in love with it. Sadly, I don't have a photo of it, but I DID trade it for about $100 worth her service. (Just thought it was kind of a funny anecdote.) I really need to do a second one. It was a lot of fun and so relaxing. I'm amazed at the development of your art in the subsequent years. It's marvelous!
Thanks, Cat! Yes, interesting story. I have been working in this vain for over 45 years now. Still a thrill every time the colors work out! Yes, make some new pieces and send me a photo, please. Paul
This is just great. Wonderful textures, most of which give no clue to what you used to create them! Love the doilies not put down completely flat... Would love to see the finished (coloured) version. Great work. Dying to try this!!!
@sant12ro - Yes, I actually lightly sand the dry plaster and then I paint to separate coats of the gloss polymer - seals the plaster and I can then manipulate the paint better.
I don't let it set at all. I use the good stuff - some of the smaller containers from cheaper places are too runny to work well. I get the 5 gallon buckets, premixed with SHEETROCK printed on the bucket - I prefer the lightweight joint compound, but the all-purpose joint compound works pretty good, too. Remember to first wet everything that you use to imprint. I dip the imprinting surface in a bowl of water.
Dear RentAnEducation, I haven't had a problem probably because of these factors: I work on a rigid surface, I apply the joint compound no thicker than 1/16", each finished piece has five coats of polymer medium which dries like a plastic skin. My oldest pieces have survived for 42 years!
Paul I looked at this video in 2013 and it made me change my idea of painting and have been working with plaster for two years. If you can go to our community to see what you started. "Textured Art Gallery" please post some of your lovely work.
No, actually it held together really well. The was actually like rock by the time the mixture hardened. I guess it's all in the mix ratios. I even added some acrylic house paint to give it a white finish.
Gee, I use the lightweight joint compound out of the big buckets - about 5 gallons. It is the perfect consistency right out of the bucket. Each object that I use to make impressions is first dipped in a water bucket. I had some bad luck with smaller buckets a couple of years back.
@vixenportia - Thanks! I first attach a wood framework, similar to canvas stretchers, to the back of the masonite. Then I nail slats onto the framework.
@free2danz Thanks! I'm sure that there is more than one way to make textured paintings - but for me, I only use about a 1/16" of an inch of joint compound. I've used the sun to help dry the plaster, but, as you've guessed, fast drying causes cracks (overly thick places tend to crack, too) I never really minded the cracks - adds more texture! I always use a rigid surface - and no, the surface - if a little porous - doesn't need to be primed.
Yes, allow the Kilz2 to dry completely - 1 or 2 days depending on the humidity. Larger pieces of masonite always rise in the middle after being wetted by the Kilz2 or any other primer. The masonite will relax (flatten) by itself when it dries.
@mamuchi78 - You can try putting some plaster on your board and moving it around with a tool for quite a long time - it will dry-out as you work it. You might also try stirring the bucket - water may have risen to the top.
@scrapaliciousleo Thanks for your kind words. Someday I'll get to some other videos about my art. There are about 10 mixed in with all my family videos. I should see if I can make separate channels!?!? BEst...
@sant12ro The medium is "ready-mixed" joint compound. It's the same plaster used on ceilings and walls. I buy the 5 gallon buckets for $13 to $17. Any rigid surface seems to work well - I use masonite/standard board mostly - some small projects on wood. Canvas board would work really well, I'm sure. (If you try this, be sure to wet whatever you stick into the plaster to make your textures!)
@LottieSue Hi - Three things can affect the quality of impressions made in the plaster (joint compound). 1. All joint compound are equal. I've found that the "lightweight" (blue and white 5 gallon buckets from Lowes or Home Depot) works the best. 2. Some rubber stamps are very low relief and don't work well (also I try not to press too firmly). 3. Water - I find dripping-wet rubber stamps work the best for me. I only apply textures with my aluminum printing plates sparingly. BEst
@katluvsdogs - Thanks! I use polymer gloss medium (2 coats) to seal my "joint compound" plaster. And I put one coat on top of each color after the color dries. I think I remember that the modeling paste was OK without sealing it. Not sure. Hey, that's what experimenting is for! I do use my doilies over and over. I just rinse them out after each use. Have fun!
I googled it and i should really use joint compound like you do. On a large piece I did get some flake offs with the spackle. Back to the hardware store for me.
@crystalhuber Thanks! I cut pieces of Masonite (also called Standard Board) and paint primer on them. Many lumber yards have 4 ft by 8 ft sheets. Places like Lowes & Home Depot sometimes have smaller pieces.
Masonite is a Good Hard canvas Surface But You Gotta sand/Scuff It very Well For proper Adhesion. I use a DA/Random Orbital Sander & 120 Grit paper. Then Prime with 123 bulls-Eye Brand spray primer. Works Good so far
I work on Masonite/standard board. I prime it with latex primer. I work right on the wet plaster BUT I have to wet everything before I press it in the plaster. I allow 48 hours if the plaster isn't too thick. Yes, I seal it with two coats of gloss polymer medium - usually I lightly sand before painting pgm.
I impress my stamps and texture makers immediately into the wet plaster - THE TRICK is to wet any object before pressing it into the plaster. The water prevents any plaster from sticking to the objects. Of course, the drying time is increased by the water - I wait a minimum of 48 hours before sanding the too rough edges and sealing with 2 coats of gloss polymer medium..
Greetings - I think the easiest way would be to cut out your shapes from something like matboard/thin cardboard. Then glue the pieces onto a backing (matboard or thin cardboard, too). Then use that to impress the plaster. Another method, which I use, starts with linoleum which you could carve into the shapes you need. Maybe wood carving would work also? Good luck.
@pinku4259 Thanks! I think your plaster powder probably hardens quickly by a chemical proccess - it is good to use for pouring into molds, but it too running to make impressions into it. The premixed "joint compound" air dries leaving you lots of time to work with it. Good luck!
fan Frikken Tastic!! I love those Texture's, Why IF I have Painted on joint Compound before, Why Didnt I think too, use Materials for Texture before, I love the Process, and It looks "Wonderful " tanks alot.
@fufugal Thanks! Some lumberyards have large, vertical saws and, for a price, will let you cut up large sheets of plywood and masonite. I do all my own cutting at home. Yes, I do sand the edges because of the way I frame my pieces.
Did I forget that! I use joint compound - the plaster used on walls and ceilings which I get at the lumber yard. I prefer the blue (light weight) 5 gallon bucket.
I have done small areas on masonite - but I would be worried that the plaster would crack and come loose on canvas just because the surface is not rigid. However very small areas might work well. I would seal with two or three coats of gloss polymer medium and then prime that with gesso or whatever you normally use for primer.
@mabellchurnoopay - Thanks! I've not had a problem with the joint compound on primed standard board and some pieces are over 30 years old! I used to let some pieces dry in direct sunlight which caused many cracks - and still the plaster didn't come loose.
I've tried a material that is used to fell cracks in floor. It was a little grainy, but worked well - until it aged and did some cracking. Liquitex makes a liquid marble product that accepts textures - but is a little runny and the textures aren't sharp.
I love your work! I love the colors you used. The tech. is fantastic, I will try this in the near future. Will you do more tutorials? I would really love that! Thanks again for sharing your secrets! ~Leonie
I immediately impress my stamps and other texture objects - yep, into the wet plaster. Be sure to wet each objects before pressing it into the plaster. It takes 24, 48 or 72 hours for the plaster to dry! (depends on the humidity) A recent video encompasses the entire proceedure.
@sant12ro - Just about anything will work, as long as you dip it in water first! I use regular stamps, like the ones used for scrapbooking, I'm sure. I have made some special stamps by carving.
I have used all kinds of joint compound. I've discovered that cheaper stuff from say WalMart is too runny for the precise impressions I like in my work. However I have used runny compound and made quite different textures (wavey works with runny!) so maybe your compound will not be wasted. I do use the ready-mix in 5 gallon buckets. I prefer the "lightweight" but used the "all purpose" for many years. My buckets are from a local lumberyard, but I've seen the good stuff in Lowes and Home Depot.
If you look closely, I clean about an 1/8" to 1/4" of the plaster away from the border. Then, when the plaster is dry, I sand the edges, too. You might be able to sand the plaster and paint - and then brush paint the edges.
@artthirst - Thanks! I'm sorry though, I wouldn't use joint compound on canvas - it is not flexible when it dries and hardens. I do know that Liquitex makes a special product for canvas - search "modeling paste" then chose the one that says it is flexible.
@jemimabarretto - I think that your grout material will work - depends on how well it takes the impressions and how well it holds up to the water necessary to make the impressions. Your house primer should work well if it's water based.
I have never even tried painting before but you make it look so easy and I love the work you did in this video. How did you keep the impressions from spiking up when you pull up the article you used for stamping? Did you wait a while before applying the stamped image?
Hi Bozzo, amazing technique. Can i use the same technique of applying the compund on canvas as well instead of hard board.? Does it give any cracks on canvas once it is dried. Please let me know
Paul, do you use the aluminum plates over the entire piece or just in a few places like we see on the video? Though I've tried I just can't get the same sharp impressions made from the rubber stamps.
@heygeno1951 Hi! I work on masonite (standard board) which is a rigid pressed board 1/4" thick. I've never had a problem with the joint compound cracking or coming loose. I used to paint with acrylics on masonite, "normal" paintings - not an uncommon surface for paintings.
This looks great, and I loved the video where you applied the paint, but I have a concern about the material. I've done a lot of sheetrock work on my house, and I have a concern that the compound is so brittle. It seems like the surface could crack or crumble if it isn't handled carefully. What has been your experience with this?
hey [: I'm making my first joint compound texture, do you let it dry for a few minutes after you've applied the compound so it isn't so wet and wont stick to the objects I use?
Hi..just wanted to let you know that when I watched these two vids I was totally in awe. How thick of a layer of compound do you use? and what would cause the compound to crack as it was drying? Should it be left in the sun to dry or would the heat cause it to dry too fast and crack. Can the compound be put on pressed board or only on a rigid surface and does the every surface have to be primed first. Thanks so much
I have been using the light weight plaster as you do, It is soo soft, I can't do patterns as quick as you do. It's like frosting. I patiently watch and wait as the plaster dries enough so to let my stamps and shapes create the shapes. Is that normal?Is there a difference between the joint compound vs plaster? I am using the joint compound. Carolyn
@abbynormal92243 - Hi! I try to make the compound 1/16" to 1/8" thick. Often I don't press my "texture makers" very strongly - making just a shallow impression. I ALWAYS dip "whatever" in a bowl of water so that the plaster doesn't stick on the "whatever." Also, some stamps have very shallow images to begin with - they don't work the best. I've done finished pieces on 1/8" masonite - seems to work OK - probably best if small pieces - which are the best for experimenting. Have fun.
hi..can you use anything else other than joint compound..like you know that stuff you use to glue tiles...I do a lot of mosaics and that stuff drys real fast...would like to use that instead of wasting it...thanx ;-) also when you prime the wood do you use regular house primer? have the whole 25 or 50 gallon left over from house painting...;-D
Hello, A big fan of your work.Tried textured painting using the SHEETROCK all purpose joint conpound. Do I have to wait for it to dry a little as I'm not able to get the same effect with stamps as you do. The texture looks messy. I need your help. Please do let me know. Regards. Su
@lmjacobs I use mostly Liquitex products - my sealer/varnisher is called Acrylic Polymer Gloss Medium. I get a good price for quart bottles at Dick Blick's.
@bozzo16933 - I've just discovered a "flexible" modeling compound made by Liquitex - it was in an AJ Moore store. sounds perfect for working on canvas.
@art10ifly Greetings! and thank- you. I use "joint compound" - premixed plaster for walls and ceilings. I use the 5 gallon buckets. What did you use on your large round painting? It is beautiful.
Thanks a TON! It worked, the water made all the difference. I got some cracks from it, but I smoothed them out while it was drying. Thanks again. Carolyn
Hi Paul. I'm a painter, and I became a fan of yours about 5 years ago when I did a small "painting" after viewing your "steps" video. Shortly after that, I went on my honeymoon, and my puppy-sitter fell in love with it. Sadly, I don't have a photo of it, but I DID trade it for about $100 worth her service. (Just thought it was kind of a funny anecdote.) I really need to do a second one. It was a lot of fun and so relaxing. I'm amazed at the development of your art in the subsequent years. It's marvelous!
Thanks, Cat! Yes, interesting story. I have been working in this vain for over 45 years now. Still a thrill every time the colors work out! Yes, make some new pieces and send me a photo, please. Paul
You're a hoot! I will. Big hug, cat
Love your ART and the feeling for colours!
Chapeau!
Thanks. I work with texture as well and love to see textured ideas. I have never tried to frame anything but might get brave enough to learn.
Thanks for your response. I love your art work. Very unique. I hope you do more videos.
This is just great. Wonderful textures, most of which give no clue to what you used to create them! Love the doilies not put down completely flat... Would love to see the finished (coloured) version. Great work. Dying to try this!!!
Love this video. I use wall compound and white glue or carpenters glue on firm surface to avoid cracks.
@sant12ro - Yes, I actually lightly sand the dry plaster and then I paint to separate coats of the gloss polymer - seals the plaster and I can then manipulate the paint better.
This is sooo very cool! AND beautiful!!! Thanks for sharing!
Thanks a lot for sharing, I wasn't sure what should i use for raised texture... & love your work.. I was inspired :o)
I don't let it set at all. I use the good stuff - some of the smaller containers from cheaper places are too runny to work well. I get the 5 gallon buckets, premixed with SHEETROCK printed on the bucket - I prefer the lightweight joint compound, but the all-purpose joint compound works pretty good, too. Remember to first wet everything that you use to imprint. I dip the imprinting surface in a bowl of water.
Great technique and beautiful results. Thanks for sharing!
This is absolutely beautiful. Thank you for sharing!
aw something else for me to try i love to do textural works and use builders caulk .thanks for sharing this great video.
Dear RentAnEducation, I haven't had a problem probably because of these factors: I work on a rigid surface, I apply the joint compound no thicker than 1/16", each finished piece has five coats of polymer medium which dries like a plastic skin. My oldest pieces have survived for 42 years!
Paul I looked at this video in 2013 and it made me change my idea of painting and have been working with plaster for two years. If you can go to our community to see what you started. "Textured Art Gallery" please post some of your lovely work.
Instead of water in the plaster I use white glue, ends up with a really hard texture and really hard to scratch.
I will try that. I have been using joint compound. Did the paint crackle?
No, actually it held together really well. The was actually like rock by the time the mixture hardened. I guess it's all in the mix ratios. I even added some acrylic house paint to give it a white finish.
Thank you George. I was thinking to add latex varnish but never did it.
Gee, I use the lightweight joint compound out of the big buckets - about 5 gallons. It is the perfect consistency right out of the bucket. Each object that I use to make impressions is first dipped in a water bucket. I had some bad luck with smaller buckets a couple of years back.
@vixenportia - Thanks! I first attach a wood framework, similar to canvas stretchers, to the back of the masonite. Then I nail slats onto the framework.
@Morningwhispers I really liked your large piece with all the cool things embedded in it - including Mona Lisa - great size!
This is amazing! Fantastic piece of art.
@free2danz Thanks! I'm sure that there is more than one way to make textured paintings - but for me, I only use about a 1/16" of an inch of joint compound. I've used the sun to help dry the plaster, but, as you've guessed, fast drying causes cracks (overly thick places tend to crack, too) I never really minded the cracks - adds more texture! I always use a rigid surface - and no, the surface - if a little porous - doesn't need to be primed.
Amazing! Could you post a video on painting/coloring this? Or a pic of how it looks after painting? Thanks!
Yes I see that, that makes good sense. I'll give that a try. TY- Carolyn
oh Yeah I also had a Doillie, laying in my house for about Ten years, and I just gave it away Too Goodwill about Four MOnths ago< of course!! thanks
Yes, allow the Kilz2 to dry completely - 1 or 2 days depending on the humidity. Larger pieces of masonite always rise in the middle after being wetted by the Kilz2 or any other primer. The masonite will relax (flatten) by itself when it dries.
@mamuchi78 - You can try putting some plaster on your board and moving it around with a tool for quite a long time - it will dry-out as you work it. You might also try stirring the bucket - water may have risen to the top.
@scrapaliciousleo Thanks for your kind words. Someday I'll get to some other videos about my art. There are about 10 mixed in with all my family videos. I should see if I can make separate channels!?!? BEst...
@sant12ro The medium is "ready-mixed" joint compound. It's the same plaster used on ceilings and walls. I buy the 5 gallon buckets for $13 to $17. Any rigid surface seems to work well - I use masonite/standard board mostly - some small projects on wood. Canvas board would work really well, I'm sure. (If you try this, be sure to wet whatever you stick into the plaster to make your textures!)
Thanks! I use all water-based stuff - Liquitex acrylic paints and gloss medium for a sealer.
@LottieSue Hi - Three things can affect the quality of impressions made in the plaster (joint compound). 1. All joint compound are equal. I've found that the "lightweight" (blue and white 5 gallon buckets from Lowes or Home Depot) works the best. 2. Some rubber stamps are very low relief and don't work well (also I try not to press too firmly). 3. Water - I find dripping-wet rubber stamps work the best for me. I only apply textures with my aluminum printing plates sparingly. BEst
your work and music taste are fantastic! yay!
@katluvsdogs - Thanks! I use polymer gloss medium (2 coats) to seal my "joint compound" plaster. And I put one coat on top of each color after the color dries. I think I remember that the modeling paste was OK without sealing it. Not sure. Hey, that's what experimenting is for! I do use my doilies over and over. I just rinse them out after each use. Have fun!
I googled it and i should really use joint compound like you do. On a large piece I did get some flake offs with the spackle.
Back to the hardware store for me.
@crystalhuber Thanks! I cut pieces of Masonite (also called Standard Board) and paint primer on them. Many lumber yards have 4 ft by 8 ft sheets. Places like Lowes & Home Depot sometimes have smaller pieces.
Masonite is a Good Hard canvas Surface But You Gotta sand/Scuff It very Well For proper Adhesion. I use a DA/Random Orbital Sander & 120 Grit paper. Then Prime with 123 bulls-Eye Brand spray primer. Works Good so far
I work on Masonite/standard board. I prime it with latex primer. I work right on the wet plaster BUT I have to wet everything before I press it in the plaster. I allow 48 hours if the plaster isn't too thick. Yes, I seal it with two coats of gloss polymer medium - usually I lightly sand before painting pgm.
I impress my stamps and texture makers immediately into the wet plaster - THE TRICK is to wet any object before pressing it into the plaster. The water prevents any plaster from sticking to the objects. Of course, the drying time is increased by the water - I wait a minimum of 48 hours before sanding the too rough edges and sealing with 2 coats of gloss polymer medium..
Gorgeous. Thanks for sharing.
Greetings - I think the easiest way would be to cut out your shapes from something like matboard/thin cardboard. Then glue the pieces onto a backing (matboard or thin cardboard, too). Then use that to impress the plaster. Another method, which I use, starts with linoleum which you could carve into the shapes you need. Maybe wood carving would work also? Good luck.
@pinku4259 Thanks! I think your plaster powder probably hardens quickly by a chemical proccess - it is good to use for pouring into molds, but it too running to make impressions into it. The premixed "joint compound" air dries leaving you lots of time to work with it. Good luck!
fan Frikken Tastic!! I love those Texture's, Why IF I have Painted on joint Compound before, Why Didnt I think too, use Materials for Texture before, I love the Process, and It looks "Wonderful " tanks alot.
@fufugal Thanks! Some lumberyards have large, vertical saws and, for a price, will let you cut up large sheets of plywood and masonite. I do all my own cutting at home. Yes, I do sand the edges because of the way I frame my pieces.
Did I forget that! I use joint compound - the plaster used on walls and ceilings which I get at the lumber yard. I prefer the blue (light weight) 5 gallon bucket.
I have done small areas on masonite - but I would be worried that the plaster would crack and come loose on canvas just because the surface is not rigid. However very small areas might work well. I would seal with two or three coats of gloss polymer medium and then prime that with gesso or whatever you normally use for primer.
Thanks! Just mention that the joint compound is the "mud" builders use on walls and ceilings! Good luck.
@mabellchurnoopay - Thanks! I've not had a problem with the joint compound on primed standard board and some pieces are over 30 years old! I used to let some pieces dry in direct sunlight which caused many cracks - and still the plaster didn't come loose.
I work immediately on the wet plaster - but you must remember to use water on the objects before pressing them into the wet plaster.
Whoa! This is incredible!
Thank you so much Mr.
I've tried a material that is used to fell cracks in floor. It was a little grainy, but worked well - until it aged and did some cracking. Liquitex makes a liquid marble product that accepts textures - but is a little runny and the textures aren't sharp.
I love your work! I love the colors you used. The tech. is fantastic, I will try this in the near future. Will you do more tutorials? I would really love that! Thanks again for sharing your secrets!
~Leonie
I immediately impress my stamps and other texture objects - yep, into the wet plaster. Be sure to wet each objects before pressing it into the plaster. It takes 24, 48 or 72 hours for the plaster to dry! (depends on the humidity) A recent video encompasses the entire proceedure.
wooooooow!! It's exactly what I've been searching for!! thank you thank you thank you! :-)
I use two coats of gloss polymer medium to seal the plaster - and then I use single coats after each color layer.
I use acylic polymer to make texture in my painting. It is flexible, can be rolled.
@sant12ro - Just about anything will work, as long as you dip it in water first! I use regular stamps, like the ones used for scrapbooking, I'm sure. I have made some special stamps by carving.
I hope I can find joint compound in the UK as I loved this, I am a real texture kind of girl. Thank you for sharing your art.
I have used all kinds of joint compound. I've discovered that cheaper stuff from say WalMart is too runny for the precise impressions I like in my work. However I have used runny compound and made quite different textures (wavey works with runny!) so maybe your compound will not be wasted. I do use the ready-mix in 5 gallon buckets. I prefer the "lightweight" but used the "all purpose" for many years. My buckets are from a local lumberyard, but I've seen the good stuff in Lowes and Home Depot.
I love your work, beautiful I've done something similar on my walls.
+Barbara Ferrell Thanks! I'd love to see your walls! Do you have images posted anywhere? I'll check your youtube channel.
Hi love this, I see reference to the colours used is there another video? I can,
I love this. I really want to try it.
Thanks for that!! Sounds good for everyone who works on canvas.
Good ideas Paul!!! & Viewers Mix in Acrylic Colors To the Paste for Diversities. & Take a Sponge With Paint Onit To Overlay a 2nd Color...........
Thanks, look for some of my other videos that show how I work colors into the textures!
omg! this is really awesome! thanks for sharing...
If you look closely, I clean about an 1/8" to 1/4" of the plaster away from the border. Then, when the plaster is dry, I sand the edges, too. You might be able to sand the plaster and paint - and then brush paint the edges.
@artthirst - Thanks! I'm sorry though, I wouldn't use joint compound on canvas - it is not flexible when it dries and hardens. I do know that Liquitex makes a special product for canvas - search "modeling paste" then chose the one that says it is flexible.
@jemimabarretto - I think that your grout material will work - depends on how well it takes the impressions and how well it holds up to the water necessary to make the impressions. Your house primer should work well if it's water based.
Thanks for your comments here and on the other video - MUcH aPprEciaTeD!
That's a real resourcefulness:-)
@art10ifly Thanks. Maybe someday you will make a video that shows how you do it? You have such a good touch with it - nice work!
I have never even tried painting before but you make it look so easy and I love the work you did in this video. How did you keep the impressions from spiking up when you pull up the article you used for stamping? Did you wait a while before applying the stamped image?
очень красивая работа, очень вдохновляет
Hi Bozzo, amazing technique. Can i use the same technique of applying the compund on canvas as well instead of hard board.? Does it give any cracks on canvas once it is dried. Please let me know
very creative! I love it!
Amazing tecniques!! and funny :)
I have more videos about the various aspects of my work. The most comprehensive one is "2012_03_My Textured Paintings_All Steps & Proceedures"
@lettherebeart Thanks. I have yet to try caulking to make texture with - I will soon - I'm thinking of making some artcards that way.
Great idea!! beautiful work!! thanks for sharing.. = 0 )
@renatallm I"m looking for that answer too! What did he use to seal after making the textures before adding paints?
Paul, do you use the aluminum plates over the entire piece or just in a few places like we see on the video? Though I've tried I just can't get the same sharp impressions made from the rubber stamps.
@heygeno1951 Hi! I work on masonite (standard board) which is a rigid pressed board 1/4" thick. I've never had a problem with the joint compound cracking or coming loose. I used to paint with acrylics on masonite, "normal" paintings - not an uncommon surface for paintings.
This looks great, and I loved the video where you applied the paint, but I have a concern about the material. I've done a lot of sheetrock work on my house, and I have a concern that the compound is so brittle. It seems like the surface could crack or crumble if it isn't handled carefully. What has been your experience with this?
hey [: I'm making my first joint compound texture, do you let it dry for a few minutes after you've applied the compound so it isn't so wet and wont stick to the objects I use?
Hi..just wanted to let you know that when I watched these two vids I was totally in awe. How thick of a layer of compound do you use? and what would cause the compound to crack as it was drying? Should it be left in the sun to dry or would the heat cause it to dry too fast and crack. Can the compound be put on pressed board or only on a rigid surface and does the every surface have to be primed first. Thanks so much
I have been using the light weight plaster as you do, It is soo soft, I can't do patterns as quick as you do. It's like frosting. I patiently watch and wait as the plaster dries enough so to let my stamps and shapes create the shapes. Is that normal?Is there a difference between the joint compound vs plaster? I am using the joint compound. Carolyn
Awesome! Thanks for this!
Deborah Narendorf You are welcome! I started working like this in 1971!
WOW, I love this!!!
Congrats on finishing a piece!
@abbynormal92243 - Hi! I try to make the compound 1/16" to 1/8" thick. Often I don't press my "texture makers" very strongly - making just a shallow impression. I ALWAYS dip "whatever" in a bowl of water so that the plaster doesn't stick on the "whatever." Also, some stamps have very shallow images to begin with - they don't work the best. I've done finished pieces on 1/8" masonite - seems to work OK - probably best if small pieces - which are the best for experimenting. Have fun.
hi..can you use anything else other than joint compound..like you know that stuff you use to glue tiles...I do a lot of mosaics and that stuff drys real fast...would like to use that instead of wasting it...thanx ;-)
also when you prime the wood do you use regular house primer? have the whole 25 or 50 gallon left over from house painting...;-D
I work on quarter inch masonite (sometimes called standard board). I buy 4ft by 8ft sheets and cut the sizes I want to work on.
@Morningwhispers YES, drywall or on my buckets it says SHEETROCK. Good luck and have fun.
Hello,
A big fan of your work.Tried textured painting using the SHEETROCK all purpose joint conpound. Do I have to wait for it to dry a little as I'm not able to get the same effect with stamps as you do. The texture looks messy. I need your help. Please do let me know.
Regards.
Su
@lmjacobs I use mostly Liquitex products - my sealer/varnisher is called Acrylic Polymer Gloss Medium. I get a good price for quart bottles at Dick Blick's.
Ginmars1 I use the lightweight plus 3 joint compound.
@bozzo16933 - I've just discovered a "flexible" modeling compound made by Liquitex - it was in an AJ Moore store. sounds perfect for working on canvas.
question? Can you apply the plaster technique to canvas in small areas and how would I seal it before painting?
@art10ifly Greetings! and thank- you. I use "joint compound" - premixed plaster for walls and ceilings. I use the 5 gallon buckets. What did you use on your large round painting? It is beautiful.
BUENISIMO!!!!!!!!
wow..great work n designs..can we know where we could get this alumiunm printing plates..please sir....excellent one
@mabellchurnoopay - can you tell me what the proportions are white glue to joint compound that you use?
How do you clean the rubber stamp after using for texture in this video.. Love this video , thank you.