Easy job. I do my 2012 Escape 2.5 every 15,000 miles. I use only Ford LV trans fluid. Change engine oil every 5,000 5-20 Mobil synthetic with motorcraft oil filter. Just changed all pulleys, tensioner, water pump, thermostat/housing unit and serpentine belt. Not a breakdown just 90,000 mile preventive maintenance. I love my Escape “Box”.
Preventative maintenance is important! I swear it's how my Jetta is still running with almost 200k on the clock. The Escape definitely seems like a good candidate for preventative work because it seems like if you let things go they _really_ go and then it's too late.
My 2010 has 135,000 miles on it. Transmission has never been serviced. Fluid is dirty, but not as dark as I see in videos. Still pink. It still shifts fine. I'm going to flush it 2 to 3 times with the same synthetic Valvoline fluid since it apparently shifts better than OEM in SUVs. In my F-150, the Valvoline just doesn't work. OEM fluid shifts like a dream. Enjoyed the video. I like to know what I'm getting into before I start. 🤠
OMG DUDE YOUR A LIFE SAVER !! THE FIRST 2 MINUTES DESCRIBING AND EDUCATING THE PROPER PROCESS, UNLIKE ALL THE OTHER VIDDEOS WHERE THEY JUST CHANGE IT ONCE, THANK YOU!!!!
Thanks for the comment! Not everyone cares about the all the nitty gritty details, so I like when people comment that they do. I keep doing since it's what I'd want to see in a video. Glad it helped, hope your Escape is good!
My engine keeps slipping at 2nd gear. I can NEVER get an accurate reading on Transmission fluid cause it's always to high up the stick but if I pump it out it's still to high or low. I'm glad you mention that if we pour in transmission fluid through the top we may not get an accurate reading from the stick. I've had that problem for almost 4 years. My escape is at 220,000 miles. Replaced transmission at 200,000 miles with no lift which was rough. These vehicles are great to work on too. Never owned a vehicle this long 💁🏻♂️
This is honestly the only car I've had trouble getting a good reading with. My Volvo and former Pontiacs I've owned all get fluid added through the dipstick and all don't have an issue giving a reading on the dipstick. You must live in a non-snow state to get 220k! Mine is just over 100k and will rust out before it hits anywhere near 200k.
I think a good strategy is to just drain and refill the fluid once every year. That’s my plan for a 2019 escape which I believe has the same 6-speed transmission. Sometimes people have problems when they do complete fluid changes. Not sure if that could cause any issues on this transmission but I figure that if I drain it every year I will be doing so after about 15,000 miles and the total capacity on mine is 9 quarts and I measured the drain volume as 4 quarts. So I will be replacing almost half the fluid each year so essentially keeping it in the same good condition all of the time.
Every 15k or once a year is probably overkill, I think you could stretch it to every 60k. But at the same time it's cheap insurance, especially knowing how these transmissions are. Better to change it often and have it work than fail from not changing it enough. You're right about problems when it comes to a transmission flush, or evacuation with a machine. You end up removing all the good metal particles that keep a transmission working well. A drain and fill shouldn't ever be an issue.
Same transmission in the fusion and I disconnected my battery long enough so the transmission memory was erased and it relearned the shift points based on my driving style which helped a lot
@@seth_867 that’s not true. If the vehicle is dead long enough, or shorted, the long term memory is erased including that stored in the Transmission control module.
Very well made, professional quality video! I used the exact same method when I changed my 2010 Escape’d trans fluid back in April, and it really significantly improved the shifting quality. Coincidentally, I also had a transmission leak from a bad CV axle seal, so I had it replaced, and got another drain and fill cycle in on that. It was even better for it in the end!
Thanks for commenting! Cool to know it worked for you as well. I haven't done a 2nd change after this, but I've thought about it just for good measure.
@@df7817 Slow acceleration doesn't typically mean a transmission problem. Are you getting poor gas mileage as well? You might just need a general tune up.
Great video, my 2010 3.0 liter Escape behaves exactly as mentioned, 2nd to 3rd, slight increase in rpm, then shifts, will try the fluid change and hope for improvement, thanks Much ! 12/13/22 After the first change with Valvoline Max, as promised the Escape had no raise in rpm in 2nd to 3rd. In fact, with low to moderate acceleration, it actually shifted 3-500 rpms higher and dropped perfectly into gear ! Kudos to Steve's Garage, a successful repair.
Thanks for the comment! Do you live in a cold climate as well? I'm asking simply because my car was a lot worse when it was cold. I found that if I cycled the transmission before I started driving it would help alleviate the problem. I assume it helped get the fluid moving and that's why. Good luck with the fluid change, and definitely comment back with your experience!
@@StevesGarage i can confirm if i let my car warm up it will not slam going into 3rd i am going to do this tomorrow i wish i would've found this sooner my escape has been doing that since 133000 it now has 202000 i thought i got ripped off when i bought it but im very lucky
@@rtaskidoo14 Mine was the same way. It will still do it occasionally if it's very cold and the car hasn't been driven in a few days. I've found another way to manage it is to start the car and cycle the transmission a bit. Then when you go to drive it shifts smoothly. I still suggest doing the fluid change though!
@@rtaskidoo14 Awesome! Glad to hear it helped. I don't have any idea on a recommended interval, but it seems like something that could be done periodically since it seems to help the transmission so much.
The best way to do this is to change fluid on day one & refill. Then drive for a week or month and change again. So it works like this. It has a 9qt capacity. if you change 4.5qts then one month later change 4.5 qts again. The remaining fluid is 75% new. That is good enough!
I've done that method with different cars in the past. I honestly don't think there is a right or wrong answer, I just wanted to make a video about following the procedure that's outlined in the Ford repair manual.
@@mesia663 Not sure who you were asking, but I don't prefer either really. Just trying the 'by the book' method for the Escape since I've done the other method.
@@mesia663you can’t go wrong with either way honestly, and I have done both. Depends on my schedule. but I personally try to do the “drive 100 miles drain/refill” 3x
I agree with your procedure and I have been doing it this way to my cars for decades. When I buy a new-to-me car, I drain/refill twice. Then I change at the next mileage which will start my 30K mile service cycle. The internal filter is not serviceable, so these drain/refill services @ 30K mile intervals are critical. By the way, my 2008 transmission is the Gen 1 CDFE 4-speed which has a different drain bolt design and location. The Gen 2 Escape went to the new 3.0 V6 VVT engine and 6-speed auto transmission in 2009. Ford loves to keep the customers confused.
Thanks for the comment! I've done similar things on past automatic cars I've owned. I've also had some GM transmissions come back around and start shifting better after doing a similar procedure. Always good to err on the side of caution with transmissions. A fluid service is cheaper than a full replacement!
I have a 2012 and sometimes I noticed it shifts harshly when cold, so I'm going to take it to the mechanic to do this (unfortunately I have a bad back otherwise I'd do it myself). One thing to keep in mind is earlier Ford Escapes (Pre 2010, I believe) use a 4 speed transmission, so their revs will be slightly different, but I'm pretty sure it's the same procedure.
I'd guess it's the same procedure since it's out of the Ford repair manual, unless it was updated later on. I've never brought the car to someone, but I'd be interested to see what the dealers advice would be. Seeing as you can't drop the pan and remove the filter, I'm not sure what else you could do besides drain and fill a few times.
@@StevesGarage yup. They are cheapy, but they're nice at the same time. You can tell ford designed it with intent for it to be worked on. They like techs unlike GM or most other brands
@@Bobby-cm7vu Changing the oil on the V6 wasn't that much fun with the filter being right next to the hot exhaust, but other than that I agree they weren't too bad to work on.
I have a 2005 ford escape 3.0 with 371k miles. I always change the transmission fluid ahead of schedule. I've had harsh shifting issues for more than a year, and after driving for a bit, there would be a several second delay into reverse. The 1-2 shift was always harsh. Decided to upgrade the transmission cooler and power steering cooler with stacked plate coolers. Now the transmission shifts perfectly, and there is no reverse delay. Just putting that out there.
371k! You must live somewhere without snow/salt on the roads. That's really interesting that an upgraded cooler seems to have made a difference. I never even thought about that being a possibility, especially since ours never saw anything outside of normal driving. Thanks for commenting, seems like a worthwhile upgrade for anyone who wants to stretch the life of their transmission.
@StevesGarage Actually it's a Pennsylvania car. The rockers are getting bad and it was rear ended 4 years ago before I bought the car with 305k and it's pretty mangled back there so I knew it's got a limited life. But now the transmission shifts like a dream. I think the original transmission cooler was too big and inefficient. The new one is much smaller and does a better job. But even when cold, it used to act up. I think the cooler was slightly clogged and caused a pressure issue. That's my guess.
Changed my fluid on my 100K escape last week. Certainly didn't do a complete flush as the Castrol ATF fluid I used is $50 / 5qts up here in Canada. However, as soon as I changed it the gear changes were far smoother.
Awesome! Another method is to change it like you did, and run it for a period of time, then do it again. Typically it works better if you can change the filter, but that's not an option. If the shifting gets worse again, can't hurt to change the fluid, but I'm glad it helped!
I have a light foot and my new 2012 V6 escape likes to change gears pretty quickly especially 1st gear which made it seem like a rough shift. The escapes like for you to get on the gas pedal. I'm getting use to how this vehicle operates.
I think most modern vehicles shift pretty quickly for better fuel economy. Holding onto revs isn't good for gas mileage. There's a definite difference between a rough shift and a quick shift, and there is a problem with these transmissions shifting rough in both the 4cyl and 6cyl models. Depending on how many miles yours has, it might not be a bad idea to do a transmission fluid drain and fill.
@@StevesGarage I changed it two weeks ago. I recently got it with 110K miles. It was a fleet car from CarMax. I'm coming from a 2014 GMC Arcadia and the shifting was super smooth compared to the V6 Escape. Other than that quick shift into 1st i don't notice any other issues. Runs great on the highway etc..
@@StevenAvery4Life Gotcha, good that you changed it! I don't have much experience with the Acadia, but I do know all the GM cars I ever owned always shifted smooth as butter! Feel free to reach out with any Escape related questions, I could always make a video if I don't cover something here!
We have a 2003 v6 and when in overdrive if you let up even slightly on the gas it kicks down a gear.so we're always going down the roads with it kicking in and out of overdrive. I've looked everywhere and can't find anyone with the same issues. Any ideas?
There could be something wrong, but in my experience the final gear in an automatic transmission always functions like that. It wants to kick down pretty quickly to give you the ability to pass, and it really only stays in that gear if you're cruising on the highway. It's hard to diagnose it over the internet, but is it shifting hard or excessively hunting? How many miles on the car?
One question I have is do you check the transmission fluid with the engine running like on older cars, or with it shut off? This is the newest vehicle I've ever owned. I just bought my 09 Escape last fall and it only had 50K miles on it, approaching 60 now so due for a fluid change. Fluid is still clean and good pink color but getting a little rough downshifting when I lift off the gas so I'm going to change it soon. I ordered some of this exact same Valvoline product on Amazon Prime, cheaper than my local auto parts store and even less than Walmart with the current sale price.
Yes, transmission fluid is checked with the car running after a bit of driving. I definitely suggest changing the fluid if you're starting to get a rough shift.
My 2012 Escape with v6 seemed to have late shifting. Changed the fluid 3x, but didn't notice much difference. Fluid was brown color prior to 1st change.
I'm sorry to hear that! I've heard if you disconnect the battery for 15 minutes or so that can reset the shift points on the transmission. Personally that didn't do anything for me which is why I went down this route.
I changed the fluid of my 2008 Escape, i used Mercon LV , but i find out the correct is the V. After 1500km , in fact, 2nd to 3rd is rough and it goes to high rpm. Hopefully didn't damage anything. Problem was that the 2008 , which is the first year of 2nd generation Escapes, still got the older ATF which still works with Mercon V, so it was a bit confunsing bc from the 2009 works with LV.
I want to preface this with the fact that I'm not a Ford tech, just a diy guy. That being said - to my knowledge LV and V are compatible, in the sense that mixing the two fluids won't cause any sort of adverse reaction with them. They aren't the same though, LV is low viscosity, so thinner than your standard V. I would drain it and replace it with V fluid asap. I don't think you'd cause any lasting damage after 1500km, but the LV fluid probably explains your rough shifts. Again, not a tech so I don't know a whole bunch about these fluid or the transmission itself, but you should absolutely put the correct fluid in and it might come around for you.
is it dangerous or harmful to the transmission to try and suck it out from the dipstick? I have a drill pump and I tried using a manual siphon device but there isn't really a pool of fluid that it can dip into to make a good siphon, so you need air suction for it to work.
It's not recommended because you can end up sucking out a lot of the fluid and metal that would otherwise remain in the transmission by just a simple drain and fill. Some metal shavings in your fluid is a good thing, and by removing it you can cause issues with the transmission. Drain and fill is all you should ever do on a transmission, no flush or siphoning out the fluid.
Very clear video, Subscribed.. My 2009 V6 has some hard shifting from 1to 2. Sometimes it stopes and knock me off lol. I am gonna try this if it helps mine
Thank you so much! This should help it, I know it helped mine. I will say that if it's bad when it's cold, try warming up the car a bit and then cycling the shifter through the gears before driving. I would do that before I did the fluid change and it helped a lot with that hard 1-2 shift.
@@boristeplitskiy7632 I don't think a drain and fill would hurt. These transmissions are known to be less than great, so it's not a bad idea to stay ahead of it.
I have a 2011 Ford Escape v6 69,000 miles I’m definitely going to do this my shifts from 1-2 or 2-3 can be long sometimes but I’m hoping this will help!
That was exactly the problem I had. It has definitely made a difference in all conditions except when it's extremely cold and I haven't let the car warm up. Overall it's definitely worth trying.
@@khelifabouraiou9589 The shifting did improve after the fluid change. It's a fairly simple process as illustrated by the video, but don't do anything you're not comfortable with.
I have a 2010 with 190k miles. The fluid is dark and I have the same hard shift issue. A couple of shops told me to just leave it because changing the fluid now would make the transmission slip. They said the “friction material” from the clutch plates came off the plates and is now in the fluid so it’s still providing friction. What are your thoughts?
They're definitely not wrong, especially at your mileage if the fluid hasn't been changed before. The risk is that by draining the fluid you remove what little is keeping it working and make the transmission shift worse.
@@StevesGarage I appreciate such a quick response! A little more context: I bought it Feb 2022 with 168k miles on it and the transmission fluid looked fresh. I checked the fluid before I drove it from Phoenix to Colorado in January of 2023, a lot of highway and mountain driving, approx. 1600 miles. When I got back to Phoenix, that’s when it had turned brownish red. I’m hoping a fluid change will make it all better because a transmission is not cheap! But I value your recommendation. Thank you!
@@hugecakefan I don't have experience with that many miles on one of these cars, so I'm sorry I can provide a definitive answer. If it were me and the transmission wasn't shifting well, I would take the chance on a fluid change since it's cheaper than a transmission and could work. Even if it's just temporary. But you have to keep in mind it could also make things worse and you'll have to buy a transmission sooner than you planned. So as long as you're prepared to buy a transmission, I'd say a fluid change isn't a bad bet.
@@hugecakefan That's what I would do. Just one drain and fill and see how it responds. You have to give it some time too. Right off the bat it may shift a little rough, but let it work itself in and it could improve. Please comment back! I'm definitely interested in the results!
If I drain my fluid, but less than 4.5 comes out do I still put in 4.5 or only the amount that comes out. My fluid is brown and the oil change guy said I should get it flushed but also should be cautious because it can make it worse if it's really bad. But I think based on your comments below I should be good with just a drain and fill, not a flush.
Always drain and fill a transmission, never flush! When you drain it, put back in however much came out. Then go through the procedure to get the fluid moving and check the level.
Thanks for the sub and other comments! It had just under 110k on it when I did this. It's still been great, and I'm really looking forward to see if it improves things once winter hits as shifting was very bad in the cold.
You're welcome! I don't own the car anymore, but I never had any issues with the ABS module. What makes you think it's the ABS module over something else?
Ford had a recall for the same problem but didn't extend the repair to cover this year. I've disabled the ABS module by removing the fuse and have yet to experience the soft brakes since or any other issue. What makes it better is that part is no produced by Ford or aftermaket as far as I know. @@StevesGarage
@@donaldmack891That's really unfortunate that the part isn't produced, and the recall doesn't apply! There is a company called XemodeX that repairs ABS modules and the electronic throttle bodies that go bad on the P80 Volvos. It might be worth checking them out!
The MaxLife I used is rated for Mercon LV and Mercon V. Where are you looking? I got mine at Advance Auto, and they list it as compatible, as well as the MaxLife bottle stating it works on the front label.
@Steve's Garage maybe you can help me. I have a 2010 Escape v6 and having transmission issues. I started having shifting issues about a week ago. I used Valvoline Maxlife ATF when replaced the fluid and now I loose all gears after car sits at idle. They will come back after restart. Any idea what is going on? I bought the vehicle 4yrs ago and it has 206k miles with original trans to my knowledge.
I wouldn't think the fluid change would do that. Did you do a drain and fill, or a complete flush where you forced the old fluid out? Transmissions are not my area of expertise as far as diagnosing an issue like that. It might be time to bring it to someone who knows what they're looking at/for. I also wouldn't be surprised if the transmission was toast with that many miles on it. These transmissions don't seem to be that great. If you don't mind commenting back if you do find out what the issue is that would be awesome. Myself and I'm sure other viewers would love to know.
@Steve's Garage thank you for the response. I just did a drain and fill. And the more I look into it, the more I think it is toast. But I will post an update.
@@scottstapleton2163 Oh man... that happening after a drain and fill is unfortunate. Though I'd think it was on it's way out anyway, I doubt you caused the failure with the fluid change. Not for nothing, but the only transmissions I've had last over 150k are manuals. Any automatic transmission I've had is toast well before 200k. I'd say it doesn't owe you anything!
@@scottstapleton2163 it could be some electrical part of the transmission. I have an explorer also and it needed a new “shift selenoid” which is like the computer part that tells the transmission when to shift. It needed this after I have the fluid changed. I guess something got messed up when they changed the fluid. My guess is that part was about to break anyway….
The fluid in this car is technically lifetime, though I think it should be changed as preventative maintenance. If the car is shifting fine, keep on driving it.
Would the car also run rough with an EGR or valve issue? I've had EGR issues on my Jetta and I was having issues with it running and boosting properly. In the case of the Escape it ran fine, just shifted poorly.
I have a V-6 in my 2008 Escape with 270,000 miles when I purchased it. The transmission sounded noisy, but I read these AWDs are kinda noisy, so I checked the fluid and drove it about six months. Suddenly the transmission started slipping. It's weird! It will pull in reverse and first gear until the tranny warms up, then it starts slipping again. Didn't know about the 3 X fluid change, so I changed 1 X and it's still slipping. Thought about adding an additive to see if that helps. Do you think another fluid change or two might work or could the bands be broken/worn out?
270k, I'm very impressed! I would say two more changes couldn't hurt, but at 270k it may just be nearing the end of it's life. I've owned 3 different Escapes and none of them were above 150k and the transmissions were getting pretty rough.
@@StevesGarage I've watched many videos about the Escape. Changing out the tranny is nearly impossible for a backyard mechanic like me (on the ground), so it appears I may have to take it to a local shop. The all wheel drive also complicates things. I don't see me laying on my back trying to remove everything just to be able to drop the engine in order to have access to the tranny. A transmission shop has the advantage of a hydraulic lift to put everything at eye level, and having your toolbox right under there where you need it doesn't hurt either.
@@dereksuddreth8672 Yea, sometimes those big jobs are left to the professionals. Not for lack of skill by someone like you or I, but lack of equipment. Having a lift is a huge advantage.
I have an 08 by fwd with 179k miles had 2 bands replaced by my bro in law for $300 30k miles ago. Since then I've drained a quart and added a quart of lucas oil for transmissions. Worked for me. I have an upgraded air filter plus a catless flowmaster which gave me 3mpg up from the 17 I was getting. Transmission only acts up when its below freezing and not warmed up. I hope to get to 200k miles but I beat the sh!t out of my fishing rig escape
@@StevesGarage Update... Had the tranny rebuilt. My mechanic showed me the broken parts after the tear-down. Fresh fluid would not have worked in my case. It required quite a bit of work just to remove the tranny, being this was an all-wheel drive.
@@cahoc99 Do you have a hybrid or manual transmission? I don't know about the manual, but I know the hybrid has a fill plug underneath as opposed to through the dipstick tube in the engine bay.
Could you do a video on how to get an accurate reading from the dipstick? I have followed the 30 km warm up and reading but get different readings depending on if fan is on, and also fluid doesn't seem to stick to dipstick well? The textured boxes between add and do not add are not fully covered
To be completely honest, I had a hard time getting an accurate reading as well. I drove the car for about 30 minutes, shifted the gears around, put it in park, and I would get a different reading each time. It's best to measure the amount you drained out of the transmission, add that back, and then drive the car around. That's what I did during this procedure, and my car has been shifting great. I'm not sure why this transmission has an issue, I've never had trouble reading a transmission dipstick before. Before your comment I figured I was the only one.
@@StevesGarage My 08 escape tranny dipstick does the same. i don't get a reading at all. never has made it to the hatches. before watching this video i did the same as you Steve and just replaced the amount that had came out from draining. unfortunately the 2-4 band has gone on my transmission and i needed a sub frame and some other parts because of rust damage due to the weather and salt used over here in good old Ontario, Canada. I was lucky enough to find an 2010 with a blown engine and a rebuilt tranny (still under warranty) with less the 5,000 kms on it. I believe this procedure allowed me to drive my escape with only 1st and 3rd gears for over a year. the tranny never died i just ended up switching it out when i found the other escape i bought with the blown engine for 750 canadian loonies lol. Great video Steve
@@jaykeegan5980 I feel you with the rust! This car has lived its whole like in Michigan, so it's pretty rusty underneath and on the body itself. It's the only automatic I've owned that can't seem to give me a reading on the transmission dipstick. Pretty lucky with getting a low mileage transmission! At that point I'm sure the power-train and drive-train outlasted the rest of the car! Thanks for the comment!
Transmission fluid or engine oil will get dark pretty quickly, it only takes a couple heat cycles for that to happen. That being said, preventative maintenance is never a bad thing! I don't think you'd be doing any harm by changing it before you have issues with the transmission shifting.
Excellent video, thanks. I had to get a used tranny for my Escape 2011 as the original one fried . I noticed that this newer tranny does what you mention, especially in the mornings , the gear tries to shift and revs up. Do you think that by changing the fluid once again, will get rid of the problem?
It's definitely worth a shot! A used transmission is definitely a gamble since you don't know the mileage or condition of it (maybe you do?) A fluid change can't hurt. It seemed to fix mine for the rest of my ownership of the car.
@@StevesGarage Thanks. I hope the shop doesn't find it weird for me to ask them to change the fluid 3 times!! I can't do it myself unfortunately ( no way to go under the car )
@@jaimelopez3991 I'm sure if you're paying them to do it they wouldn't mind! I've done it where you drain the fluid, throw in some cheap stuff and run it, then drain that and put in good fluid. But that's on a car where you can change the filter as well.
The valvolime u got it's synthetic or the regular one, for the trans fluid. At what mileage should this flush be done rather than just a drain and fill, thanks, I have a 2012 ford escape 4cylinder and It has no fuel filter outside to change , it's integrated inside the fuel tank.
I went with full synthetic transmission fluid since that's what is compatible with the specified fluid by Ford. In my experience with automatic transmissions the change interval is 60-100k. Ford says it's lifetime, but I'd probably do 60 since these transmissions clearly have issues shifting. As for the fuel filter, I don't know of a car with an external fuel filter. They're always located in the tank. Personally I don't touch them unless the car is having fuel delivery problems that could be caused by a clogged fuel filter or bad pump. Kind of a 'don't fix what isn't broken' type of situation.
@@StevesGarage thanks, also for changing the fluid is only drain and fill? I saw some other videos saying that they don't advise flushing the fluid of the transmission since it may cause problems. Is that true?
Correct, drain and fill only with a transmission. Flushing the transmission can force out metal particles (which are good for the transmission) and built up crud (which should stay where it is). Even the procedure I outline here is ok. A repeated drain and fill just gets more of the old fluid out, and it's the procedure outlined in a Ford dealer service manual.
@@StevesGarage I noted my 2012 ford escape manual it says that for trans fluid it requires mercon LV but it doesn't say to use full synthetic. The only full synthetic to use is on engine oil change. So I am a bit confused. Mines is a 2.5l 4cyl.
@@justlg3359 Valvoline Mercon LV fluid is labeled as full synthetic. Motorcraft Mercon LV isn't labeled as full synthetic on the bottle, so I don't know what that technically is. The Valvoline ATF is labeled as compatible. I've been running it in my car, so I can tell you that it doesn't grenade the transmission.
Any opinion on the Valvoline ATF that you used vs Mercon LV? My concern is that given the filter can’t really be changed I might as well be a sucker for the Motorcraft stuff. One thing that I did that has significantly helped my shifting is resetting the adaptive shift tables using Forscan. My Escape used to jump hard from 1st to 2nd and lag from 3rd to 4th. I had gotten the vehicle used so whoever had it before must have been real hard on it. After I reset tables and took it out for a drive to relearn the shift points, it’s been pretty solid. Still harsh here and there so I’m hoping a change of transmission fluid will help out with that. I also have noticed that at higher speeds rpms will kinda drag out before shift so I think a throttle body cleaning is in the books as well.
Thanks for the heads up about resetting the shift tables! I didn't know about that. This car was owned by a family member since new, and was babied it's whole life, so who knows the reason for the bad shifting. Might just be a bad transmission. I had a lot of experience with W-Body GM cars, and those transmissions sucked no matter what you did. As for the fluid, I can't offer any objective advice. This is the first Ford I've owned long term so I don't have much experience with their fluid vs 'aftermarket'. I do run the Ford engine oil since it's inexpensive and recommended, and that hasn't given me any issues. I went with the Valvoline ATF since it was locally available and I was hoping it might perform better than the OEM fluid. So far so good. I'll occasionally get a bit of a hang before shifting, but it's no longer a regular occurrence, and I have no more hard shifts. Let me know how yours makes out with the fluid change, and I'll have to look into resetting the shift tables on mine.
It's the Ford dealer service manual. I bought it on ebay and it was worth every penny. The diagrams show part numbers as well, which I've never seen before. It's so handy if just for the part numbers alone.
@@justlg3359 It's just called "Workshop Manual" with the year and model of the car. If you search eBay for workshop or dealer service manual they should pop up. That's how I bought mine. The other option is your standard Chilton or Haynes manual you find in parts stores.
@@justlg3359 Haynes and Chilton is about the same. The dealer style manual is by far the best, but it's also probably the priciest of the options. If you're doing a lot of work on the car it's well worth the money for the detailed information it provides.
I was always told to never do a transmission flush, just do a drain and fill. In the case of the Escape, it doesn't have a serviceable filter which is why I repeat the process 3 times. Flushing a transmission typically causes more harm than good as it loosens up any build up and sends it through the transmission. A pressure flush can also push out seals that would have otherwise not been an issue.
My 2010 Escape has 122k, it shifts ok but when it gets hot, around 30mph-40mph it shifts hard, slips. Never changed transmission fluid because dealer mechanics, manual said “lifetime” fluid, now I learn the hard way. Some recommended to change the transmission fluid, others said to me if I change it now it will harm the transmission more.
I'm going to preface this with - Every car is different. That being said, I've never damaged the transmission by changing the fluid. If you do a flush, meaning force the old fluid and metal shavings out and put new in, you can damage it. A drain and fill is usually fine for the transmission. If you don't want to follow the whole procedure I outlined in the video, you could try a single drain and fill and see how the transmission reacts. Myself and other commenters seem to have great luck doing that on these transmissions,
I put "lifetime gasoline" on my car, the only problem is my car's lifetime is now 350 miles. Amazing how people will fall for bullshit, as long as it comes from an "Authority Figure". I would do what StevesGarage recommended, then change it every 10K miles if it responded positively.
@@marioarguello6989 Every 10k might be a little aggressive. If I remember correctly transmissions are typically 30k-60k. That being said, every 10k would be cheap insurance! I change the engine oil on my Jetta once a year or every 3k since it's approaching 200k. Oil changes are cheaper than other engine problems!
@@CarlosLara-te1zk The biggest difference is by doing it 3 times you'll get more of the old fluid out, and more of the new fluid in. I've done a 2x change on cars where you can drop the pan and filter which in itself allows to get more of the old fluid out. If your transmission is functioning ok and you're being proactive, a drain and fill would probably be fine. If you're having hard shifts I'd say do the 3x to achieve the best results.
I don't think it can hurt! I've personally never used it, but know plenty of people who have with great results. With the way these transmissions are, I say go it.
Thanks. I've had the same experience myself. Never used it but heard good things. Konda wish I knew about this transmission issue before I bought mine.
@@thefuzzyone3283 This car was bought new by my wifes family and dealer maintained until we got it. It's lived a pretty easy life, so I assume no matter what you do these transmissions are going to stop shifting well. Had I known about the transmission before it started happening I probably would have done some preventative fluid changes to see if I could stave off any shifting issues for as long as possible.
I'm trusting google translate here - but yea, the Escape is pretty rusty. 10+ years of rough winters and it not being washed regularly have lead to it being pretty rusty everywhere!
Every car is different, but I don't see why not. Are you getting rough shifts? If the transmission is performing fine I'd leave it alone, if it's shifting rough I'd give it a shot.
I haven't used it, but I do use Castrol engine oil. The data sheet for Castrol Universal says it meets the standards for Mercon LV, so I'd say you're ok.
I went to a mechanic with my 2010 Ford escape Limited today (118k miles just bought it used a week ago). I asked them to do a flush but they did the same thing you did (all they did was empty the old fluid and added new one) but they charged $120. Did I get ripped off? It looks easy to do I should of watched this video first and not after lol also how many miles should you changed it? In the manual it says every 60k.
Honestly, I wouldn't say that's a bad price. The Valvoline ATF I used was $30 a bottle and I used 3 for the change. He may have only done one drain and fill, but I still don't think it's a bad price. Most shops in my area are $100+ for an hour of labor, so I wouldn't say $120 is being ripped off. As far as change interval, I think the 60k you read is for the TorqShift transmission, which isn't in the Escape. As far as I knew for the Escape it's 150k interval. I don't think changing it early is bad though. It helped on my car, and from the couple of comments on this video it seemed to have helped others as well.
@@StevesGarage ok cool. Yeah it looks easy to do I may just do it my self from now on in the future. Thanks for the info you’re channel has become the Ford Escape channel 😂😂👌👌
@@unvcht5046 It's not a bad job at all. About on par with changing engine oil I'd say. While you don't have a filter to replace, you have the hassle of refilling the ATF through the dipstick tube. I'm glad the video helped!
Do you have a 4cyl model? There might be a difference between the transmissions on 4 and 6cyl models, though there was no indication of that in my repair manual.
In the video I used Valvoline MaxLife Full Synthetic ATF. You can use whatever compatible ATF you'd like, but this was available at my local parts store, and seems to be good quality fluid.
Easy job. I do my 2012 Escape 2.5 every 15,000 miles. I use only Ford LV trans fluid. Change engine oil every 5,000 5-20 Mobil synthetic with motorcraft oil filter. Just changed all pulleys, tensioner, water pump, thermostat/housing unit and serpentine belt. Not a breakdown just 90,000 mile preventive maintenance. I love my Escape “Box”.
Preventative maintenance is important! I swear it's how my Jetta is still running with almost 200k on the clock. The Escape definitely seems like a good candidate for preventative work because it seems like if you let things go they _really_ go and then it's too late.
How much Quarts does you trans fluid take? Drain and fill
Wow aren’t you an amazing douchebag
@@justlg3359 It honestly all depends how much comes out. 4.5 to 5 qts is probably what will drain out, but check your dipstick!
My 2010 has 135,000 miles on it. Transmission has never been serviced. Fluid is dirty, but not as dark as I see in videos. Still pink. It still shifts fine.
I'm going to flush it 2 to 3 times with the same synthetic Valvoline fluid since it apparently shifts better than OEM in SUVs. In my F-150, the Valvoline just doesn't work. OEM fluid shifts like a dream.
Enjoyed the video. I like to know what I'm getting into before I start. 🤠
This is SO HELPFUL!! My local auto shop quoted me $500+ to do this, thank you for sharing this!!
Awesome! Definitely a lot cheaper to do it yourself if you have some basic tools.
OMG DUDE YOUR A LIFE SAVER !! THE FIRST 2 MINUTES DESCRIBING AND EDUCATING THE PROPER PROCESS, UNLIKE ALL THE OTHER VIDDEOS WHERE THEY JUST CHANGE IT ONCE, THANK YOU!!!!
Thanks for the comment! Not everyone cares about the all the nitty gritty details, so I like when people comment that they do. I keep doing since it's what I'd want to see in a video. Glad it helped, hope your Escape is good!
My engine keeps slipping at 2nd gear. I can NEVER get an accurate reading on Transmission fluid cause it's always to high up the stick but if I pump it out it's still to high or low. I'm glad you mention that if we pour in transmission fluid through the top we may not get an accurate reading from the stick. I've had that problem for almost 4 years. My escape is at 220,000 miles. Replaced transmission at 200,000 miles with no lift which was rough.
These vehicles are great to work on too. Never owned a vehicle this long 💁🏻♂️
This is honestly the only car I've had trouble getting a good reading with. My Volvo and former Pontiacs I've owned all get fluid added through the dipstick and all don't have an issue giving a reading on the dipstick. You must live in a non-snow state to get 220k! Mine is just over 100k and will rust out before it hits anywhere near 200k.
Checking transmission oil is best when it is cold and on a flat surface. You do still check it at operating temperature too.
What? Doesnt the manual say qhen hot and running? Explain pls@@abegilila8784
Have same issues! How do u ever get an accurate reading? Putting tgriigh the ztick is the only way to fill it.
I think a good strategy is to just drain and refill the fluid once every year. That’s my plan for a 2019 escape which I believe has the same 6-speed transmission. Sometimes people have problems when they do complete fluid changes. Not sure if that could cause any issues on this transmission but I figure that if I drain it every year I will be doing so after about 15,000 miles and the total capacity on mine is 9 quarts and I measured the drain volume as 4 quarts. So I will be replacing almost half the fluid each year so essentially keeping it in the same good condition all of the time.
Every 15k or once a year is probably overkill, I think you could stretch it to every 60k. But at the same time it's cheap insurance, especially knowing how these transmissions are. Better to change it often and have it work than fail from not changing it enough.
You're right about problems when it comes to a transmission flush, or evacuation with a machine. You end up removing all the good metal particles that keep a transmission working well. A drain and fill shouldn't ever be an issue.
Same transmission in the fusion and I disconnected my battery long enough so the transmission memory was erased and it relearned the shift points based on my driving style which helped a lot
That's good to know! I guess if re-learning the shift points doesn't solve it, doing a drain and fill of the transmission might work too.
It doesn’t work that way, it stays saved in the computer and the only way to erase and relearn is to use a computer a wipe it
@@seth_867 that’s not true. If the vehicle is dead long enough, or shorted, the long term memory is erased including that stored in the Transmission control module.
@@DUBcars411 I heard that it has to be reset with a computer. Even when you disconnect battery it does not erase anything.
@@tpsurf13 it has to be disconnected for a couple hours. Eventually the long term memory in the transmission’s ECU (the shift tables) will be erased
Very well made, professional quality video! I used the exact same method when I changed my 2010 Escape’d trans fluid back in April, and it really significantly improved the shifting quality.
Coincidentally, I also had a transmission leak from a bad CV axle seal, so I had it replaced, and got another drain and fill cycle in on that. It was even better for it in the end!
Thanks for commenting! Cool to know it worked for you as well. I haven't done a 2nd change after this, but I've thought about it just for good measure.
So.... my 2010 ford escape has been slow at excleratlting....would that mean i need to changed the fluid as well
@@df7817 Slow acceleration doesn't typically mean a transmission problem. Are you getting poor gas mileage as well? You might just need a general tune up.
Great video, my 2010 3.0 liter Escape behaves exactly as mentioned, 2nd to 3rd, slight increase in rpm, then shifts, will try the fluid change and hope for improvement, thanks Much ! 12/13/22 After the first change with Valvoline Max, as promised the Escape had no raise in rpm in 2nd to 3rd. In fact, with low to moderate acceleration, it actually shifted 3-500 rpms higher and dropped perfectly into gear ! Kudos to Steve's Garage, a successful repair.
Thanks for the comment! Do you live in a cold climate as well? I'm asking simply because my car was a lot worse when it was cold. I found that if I cycled the transmission before I started driving it would help alleviate the problem. I assume it helped get the fluid moving and that's why. Good luck with the fluid change, and definitely comment back with your experience!
@@StevesGarage i can confirm if i let my car warm up it will not slam going into 3rd i am going to do this tomorrow i wish i would've found this sooner my escape has been doing that since 133000 it now has 202000 i thought i got ripped off when i bought it but im very lucky
@@rtaskidoo14 Mine was the same way. It will still do it occasionally if it's very cold and the car hasn't been driven in a few days. I've found another way to manage it is to start the car and cycle the transmission a bit. Then when you go to drive it shifts smoothly. I still suggest doing the fluid change though!
@@StevesGarage I did the fluid change and the difference is unbelievable shifts so smooth now thank you!
@@rtaskidoo14 Awesome! Glad to hear it helped. I don't have any idea on a recommended interval, but it seems like something that could be done periodically since it seems to help the transmission so much.
The best way to do this is to change fluid on day one & refill. Then drive for a week or month and change again. So it works like this. It has a 9qt capacity. if you change 4.5qts then one month later change 4.5 qts again. The remaining fluid is 75% new. That is good enough!
I've done that method with different cars in the past. I honestly don't think there is a right or wrong answer, I just wanted to make a video about following the procedure that's outlined in the Ford repair manual.
Why do you prefer this method?
@@mesia663 Not sure who you were asking, but I don't prefer either really. Just trying the 'by the book' method for the Escape since I've done the other method.
@@mesia663you can’t go wrong with either way honestly, and I have done both. Depends on my schedule. but I personally try to do the “drive 100 miles drain/refill” 3x
I agree with your procedure and I have been doing it this way to my cars for decades. When I buy a new-to-me car, I drain/refill twice. Then I change at the next mileage which will start my 30K mile service cycle. The internal filter is not serviceable, so these drain/refill services @ 30K mile intervals are critical.
By the way, my 2008 transmission is the Gen 1 CDFE 4-speed which has a different drain bolt design and location. The Gen 2 Escape went to the new 3.0 V6 VVT engine and 6-speed auto transmission in 2009.
Ford loves to keep the customers confused.
Thanks for the comment! I've done similar things on past automatic cars I've owned. I've also had some GM transmissions come back around and start shifting better after doing a similar procedure. Always good to err on the side of caution with transmissions. A fluid service is cheaper than a full replacement!
I have a 2012 and sometimes I noticed it shifts harshly when cold, so I'm going to take it to the mechanic to do this (unfortunately I have a bad back otherwise I'd do it myself). One thing to keep in mind is earlier Ford Escapes (Pre 2010, I believe) use a 4 speed transmission, so their revs will be slightly different, but I'm pretty sure it's the same procedure.
I'd guess it's the same procedure since it's out of the Ford repair manual, unless it was updated later on. I've never brought the car to someone, but I'd be interested to see what the dealers advice would be. Seeing as you can't drop the pan and remove the filter, I'm not sure what else you could do besides drain and fill a few times.
I have a 2009 2.5 and I can confirm it has a 6 speed 6F35 used up until 2019 escapes, fusions and edges
Just picked up a 2010 escape. It was shifting a bit sluggish and rough, did this and now it shifts amazingly. Thanks for the helpful video.
Awesome! So glad it helped. They're not bad cars if you keep up on the maintenance.
@@StevesGarage yup. They are cheapy, but they're nice at the same time. You can tell ford designed it with intent for it to be worked on. They like techs unlike GM or most other brands
@@Bobby-cm7vu Changing the oil on the V6 wasn't that much fun with the filter being right next to the hot exhaust, but other than that I agree they weren't too bad to work on.
@@StevesGarage that's fair, but it was just as bad on my saturn aura i had before my escape, so I'm used to it honestly 😂
@@Bobby-cm7vu Yea, it's definitely not unique to the Escape!
I have a 2005 ford escape 3.0 with 371k miles. I always change the transmission fluid ahead of schedule. I've had harsh shifting issues for more than a year, and after driving for a bit, there would be a several second delay into reverse. The 1-2 shift was always harsh. Decided to upgrade the transmission cooler and power steering cooler with stacked plate coolers. Now the transmission shifts perfectly, and there is no reverse delay. Just putting that out there.
371k! You must live somewhere without snow/salt on the roads. That's really interesting that an upgraded cooler seems to have made a difference. I never even thought about that being a possibility, especially since ours never saw anything outside of normal driving. Thanks for commenting, seems like a worthwhile upgrade for anyone who wants to stretch the life of their transmission.
@StevesGarage Actually it's a Pennsylvania car. The rockers are getting bad and it was rear ended 4 years ago before I bought the car with 305k and it's pretty mangled back there so I knew it's got a limited life. But now the transmission shifts like a dream. I think the original transmission cooler was too big and inefficient. The new one is much smaller and does a better job. But even when cold, it used to act up. I think the cooler was slightly clogged and caused a pressure issue. That's my guess.
@@dandiegidio7729 Wow, thats incredible that you've kept it going! Glad the cooler works, keep rocking the Escape!
Awesome! Looks super simple. I have two escapes and will be doing this.
Good luck and let me know if you have any other questions! It should definitely improve the quality of your shifts.
Changed my fluid on my 100K escape last week.
Certainly didn't do a complete flush as the Castrol ATF fluid I used is $50 / 5qts up here in Canada. However, as soon as I changed it the gear changes were far smoother.
Awesome! Another method is to change it like you did, and run it for a period of time, then do it again. Typically it works better if you can change the filter, but that's not an option. If the shifting gets worse again, can't hurt to change the fluid, but I'm glad it helped!
I have a light foot and my new 2012 V6 escape likes to change gears pretty quickly especially 1st gear which made it seem like a rough shift. The escapes like for you to get on the gas pedal. I'm getting use to how this vehicle operates.
I think most modern vehicles shift pretty quickly for better fuel economy. Holding onto revs isn't good for gas mileage. There's a definite difference between a rough shift and a quick shift, and there is a problem with these transmissions shifting rough in both the 4cyl and 6cyl models. Depending on how many miles yours has, it might not be a bad idea to do a transmission fluid drain and fill.
@@StevesGarage I changed it two weeks ago. I recently got it with 110K miles. It was a fleet car from CarMax. I'm coming from a 2014 GMC Arcadia and the shifting was super smooth compared to the V6 Escape. Other than that quick shift into 1st i don't notice any other issues. Runs great on the highway etc..
@@StevenAvery4Life Gotcha, good that you changed it! I don't have much experience with the Acadia, but I do know all the GM cars I ever owned always shifted smooth as butter! Feel free to reach out with any Escape related questions, I could always make a video if I don't cover something here!
You're welcome, but truthfully, i know where to go when I need help, have GREAT New Year.
Thank you! You too!
Thanks for this great video, I will try that on my 2009 V6 !
It made a huge difference in mine. Comment back once you complete it and let me know!
My 2009 escape downshifts very rough hopefully this will fix it
This should be a good place to start. Leave a comment after you complete it to let me know if it worked!
We have a 2003 v6 and when in overdrive if you let up even slightly on the gas it kicks down a gear.so we're always going down the roads with it kicking in and out of overdrive. I've looked everywhere and can't find anyone with the same issues. Any ideas?
There could be something wrong, but in my experience the final gear in an automatic transmission always functions like that. It wants to kick down pretty quickly to give you the ability to pass, and it really only stays in that gear if you're cruising on the highway.
It's hard to diagnose it over the internet, but is it shifting hard or excessively hunting? How many miles on the car?
Thanks for the video I'm about to do my 08 limted right now.
You're welcome, hopefully it makes a difference!
One question I have is do you check the transmission fluid with the engine running like on older cars, or with it shut off? This is the newest vehicle I've ever owned. I just bought my 09 Escape last fall and it only had 50K miles on it, approaching 60 now so due for a fluid change. Fluid is still clean and good pink color but getting a little rough downshifting when I lift off the gas so I'm going to change it soon. I ordered some of this exact same Valvoline product on Amazon Prime, cheaper than my local auto parts store and even less than Walmart with the current sale price.
Yes, transmission fluid is checked with the car running after a bit of driving. I definitely suggest changing the fluid if you're starting to get a rough shift.
I have a 2008 and I use the same transmission fluid. Once I got to 200k km, I do one change yearly. I haven't had any shift problems yet.
Awesome to read! Changing the fluid is cheap insurance, and as you've shown, it makes a difference!
@@StevesGarage That's the way I see it! Pay now or pay a lot more later!
@@seeya205 And like you said, paying for it later is always more!
Thanks
You're welcome!
My 2012 Escape with v6 seemed to have late shifting. Changed the fluid 3x, but didn't notice much difference. Fluid was brown color prior to 1st change.
I'm sorry to hear that! I've heard if you disconnect the battery for 15 minutes or so that can reset the shift points on the transmission. Personally that didn't do anything for me which is why I went down this route.
@@StevesGarage I'll try disconnecting the battery when I clean the terminals.
On my 2008 the pan didn't extend to where the drain plug was, which I didn't realize until I'd already removed it. I'll know better next time.
Good to know! I wonder if it's a difference in year, or V6 to 4cyl difference.
I changed the fluid of my 2008 Escape, i used Mercon LV , but i find out the correct is the V. After 1500km , in fact, 2nd to 3rd is rough and it goes to high rpm. Hopefully didn't damage anything. Problem was that the 2008 , which is the first year of 2nd generation Escapes, still got the older ATF which still works with Mercon V, so it was a bit confunsing bc from the 2009 works with LV.
I want to preface this with the fact that I'm not a Ford tech, just a diy guy.
That being said - to my knowledge LV and V are compatible, in the sense that mixing the two fluids won't cause any sort of adverse reaction with them. They aren't the same though, LV is low viscosity, so thinner than your standard V. I would drain it and replace it with V fluid asap. I don't think you'd cause any lasting damage after 1500km, but the LV fluid probably explains your rough shifts. Again, not a tech so I don't know a whole bunch about these fluid or the transmission itself, but you should absolutely put the correct fluid in and it might come around for you.
is it dangerous or harmful to the transmission to try and suck it out from the dipstick? I have a drill pump and I tried using a manual siphon device but there isn't really a pool of fluid that it can dip into to make a good siphon, so you need air suction for it to work.
It's not recommended because you can end up sucking out a lot of the fluid and metal that would otherwise remain in the transmission by just a simple drain and fill. Some metal shavings in your fluid is a good thing, and by removing it you can cause issues with the transmission. Drain and fill is all you should ever do on a transmission, no flush or siphoning out the fluid.
Very clear video, Subscribed.. My 2009 V6 has some hard shifting from 1to 2. Sometimes it stopes and knock me off lol. I am gonna try this if it helps mine
Thank you so much! This should help it, I know it helped mine. I will say that if it's bad when it's cold, try warming up the car a bit and then cycling the shifter through the gears before driving. I would do that before I did the fluid change and it helped a lot with that hard 1-2 shift.
@@StevesGarage I have that same rough shift and then goes away after the fluids warm up. 57k miles, should I do a trans flush?
@@boristeplitskiy7632 I don't think a drain and fill would hurt. These transmissions are known to be less than great, so it's not a bad idea to stay ahead of it.
@@StevesGarage do you recommend to just do a complete flush? Or as you’re saying a drain and fill
@@boristeplitskiy7632 You never want to flush a transmission. Always drain and fill. If you want to do it once, or the 3 times I did is up to you.
I have an 05 mariner with just over 200k on it, started shifting hard so i guess i will give this a try and see iff it helps.
I'm impressed with 200k! I'm guessing it doesn't see snow and salt? Comment back if the change helped it shift ant better.
@StevesGarage it's an Arizona car but we just moved to Oklahoma about a year ago so it's seeing some rain and snow now.
@@leemiracle6840 Just keep the salt off it (if they use that in OK) and the body should stay clean.
Hello I have a 2012 ford escape that hit 100k miles. Would it be too late to change the fluid?
Not at all! I did mine well after 100k.
I have a 2011 Ford Escape v6 69,000 miles I’m definitely going to do this my shifts from 1-2 or 2-3 can be long sometimes but I’m hoping this will help!
That was exactly the problem I had. It has definitely made a difference in all conditions except when it's extremely cold and I haven't let the car warm up. Overall it's definitely worth trying.
Hello I have the same problem and I'm afraid to change the fluid or add I'm new in mechanics so please let me know what happend if you change it
@@khelifabouraiou9589 The shifting did improve after the fluid change. It's a fairly simple process as illustrated by the video, but don't do anything you're not comfortable with.
Am I able to use Mobil 1 transmission fluid? The bottle said it can be used by ford vehicles, I have a 2011 Ford Escape.
If it's compatible with Mercon LV you'll be good.
I have a 2010 with 190k miles. The fluid is dark and I have the same hard shift issue. A couple of shops told me to just leave it because changing the fluid now would make the transmission slip. They said the “friction material” from the clutch plates came off the plates and is now in the fluid so it’s still providing friction. What are your thoughts?
They're definitely not wrong, especially at your mileage if the fluid hasn't been changed before. The risk is that by draining the fluid you remove what little is keeping it working and make the transmission shift worse.
@@StevesGarage I appreciate such a quick response! A little more context: I bought it Feb 2022 with 168k miles on it and the transmission fluid looked fresh. I checked the fluid before I drove it from Phoenix to Colorado in January of 2023, a lot of highway and mountain driving, approx. 1600 miles. When I got back to Phoenix, that’s when it had turned brownish red. I’m hoping a fluid change will make it all better because a transmission is not cheap! But I value your recommendation. Thank you!
@@hugecakefan I don't have experience with that many miles on one of these cars, so I'm sorry I can provide a definitive answer.
If it were me and the transmission wasn't shifting well, I would take the chance on a fluid change since it's cheaper than a transmission and could work. Even if it's just temporary. But you have to keep in mind it could also make things worse and you'll have to buy a transmission sooner than you planned. So as long as you're prepared to buy a transmission, I'd say a fluid change isn't a bad bet.
@@StevesGarage thanks again! Maybe I’ll do just the first 1/3 of it and see how she responds to the fresh fluid. I’ll give an update when I get to it.
@@hugecakefan That's what I would do. Just one drain and fill and see how it responds. You have to give it some time too. Right off the bat it may shift a little rough, but let it work itself in and it could improve. Please comment back! I'm definitely interested in the results!
somone told me my 08 escape has a filter you can remove,. how do i know if i do or dont?
To my knowledge no version has a serviceable filter. You'd have to remove the transmission and open it up to replace the filter.
If I drain my fluid, but less than 4.5 comes out do I still put in 4.5 or only the amount that comes out. My fluid is brown and the oil change guy said I should get it flushed but also should be cautious because it can make it worse if it's really bad. But I think based on your comments below I should be good with just a drain and fill, not a flush.
Always drain and fill a transmission, never flush! When you drain it, put back in however much came out. Then go through the procedure to get the fluid moving and check the level.
Very good video. How many miles did that car have on it before you did this service? Thanks again. Subscribed
Thanks for the sub and other comments! It had just under 110k on it when I did this. It's still been great, and I'm really looking forward to see if it improves things once winter hits as shifting was very bad in the cold.
Thanks for the video! Side note: any issue with the ABS module causing a "soft brake" issue?
You're welcome! I don't own the car anymore, but I never had any issues with the ABS module. What makes you think it's the ABS module over something else?
Ford had a recall for the same problem but didn't extend the repair to cover this year. I've disabled the ABS module by removing the fuse and have yet to experience the soft brakes since or any other issue. What makes it better is that part is no produced by Ford or aftermaket as far as I know. @@StevesGarage
@@donaldmack891That's really unfortunate that the part isn't produced, and the recall doesn't apply! There is a company called XemodeX that repairs ABS modules and the electronic throttle bodies that go bad on the P80 Volvos. It might be worth checking them out!
bro i change my spark plugs and transmission fluid, but when i accelerate it shakes in first and second gear
Could be a number of different things. Do you have a check engine light?
Is the high mileage Valvoline mercon v I didn't see it listed for the 08 escape
The MaxLife I used is rated for Mercon LV and Mercon V. Where are you looking? I got mine at Advance Auto, and they list it as compatible, as well as the MaxLife bottle stating it works on the front label.
do you need to change the transmission filter when you change the fluid?
These particular transmissions have a non-serviceable filter. You'd have to open the transmission to access it.
@Steve's Garage maybe you can help me. I have a 2010 Escape v6 and having transmission issues. I started having shifting issues about a week ago. I used Valvoline Maxlife ATF when replaced the fluid and now I loose all gears after car sits at idle. They will come back after restart. Any idea what is going on? I bought the vehicle 4yrs ago and it has 206k miles with original trans to my knowledge.
I wouldn't think the fluid change would do that. Did you do a drain and fill, or a complete flush where you forced the old fluid out? Transmissions are not my area of expertise as far as diagnosing an issue like that. It might be time to bring it to someone who knows what they're looking at/for. I also wouldn't be surprised if the transmission was toast with that many miles on it. These transmissions don't seem to be that great. If you don't mind commenting back if you do find out what the issue is that would be awesome. Myself and I'm sure other viewers would love to know.
@Steve's Garage thank you for the response. I just did a drain and fill. And the more I look into it, the more I think it is toast. But I will post an update.
@@scottstapleton2163 Oh man... that happening after a drain and fill is unfortunate. Though I'd think it was on it's way out anyway, I doubt you caused the failure with the fluid change.
Not for nothing, but the only transmissions I've had last over 150k are manuals. Any automatic transmission I've had is toast well before 200k. I'd say it doesn't owe you anything!
@@scottstapleton2163 it could be some electrical part of the transmission. I have an explorer also and it needed a new “shift selenoid” which is like the computer part that tells the transmission when to shift. It needed this after I have the fluid changed. I guess something got messed up when they changed the fluid. My guess is that part was about to break anyway….
@@StevesGarageI have 150k miles on my 2012 Escape. It still shifts pretty well.
Can we still drive as long as the transmission fluid is not getting black?
The fluid in this car is technically lifetime, though I think it should be changed as preventative maintenance. If the car is shifting fine, keep on driving it.
I heard egr valve r and valve gum also cause high rpms
Would the car also run rough with an EGR or valve issue? I've had EGR issues on my Jetta and I was having issues with it running and boosting properly. In the case of the Escape it ran fine, just shifted poorly.
I have a V-6 in my 2008 Escape with 270,000 miles when I purchased it. The transmission sounded noisy, but I read these AWDs are kinda noisy, so I checked the fluid and drove it about six months. Suddenly the transmission started slipping. It's weird! It will pull in reverse and first gear until the tranny warms up, then it starts slipping again. Didn't know about the 3 X fluid change, so I changed 1 X and it's still slipping. Thought about adding an additive to see if that helps. Do you think another fluid change or two might work or could the bands be broken/worn out?
270k, I'm very impressed! I would say two more changes couldn't hurt, but at 270k it may just be nearing the end of it's life. I've owned 3 different Escapes and none of them were above 150k and the transmissions were getting pretty rough.
@@StevesGarage I've watched many videos about the Escape. Changing out the tranny is nearly impossible for a backyard mechanic like me (on the ground), so it appears I may have to take it to a local shop. The all wheel drive also complicates things. I don't see me laying on my back trying to remove everything just to be able to drop the engine in order to have access to the tranny. A transmission shop has the advantage of a hydraulic lift to put everything at eye level, and having your toolbox right under there where you need it doesn't hurt either.
@@dereksuddreth8672 Yea, sometimes those big jobs are left to the professionals. Not for lack of skill by someone like you or I, but lack of equipment. Having a lift is a huge advantage.
I have an 08 by fwd with 179k miles had 2 bands replaced by my bro in law for $300 30k miles ago. Since then I've drained a quart and added a quart of lucas oil for transmissions. Worked for me. I have an upgraded air filter plus a catless flowmaster which gave me 3mpg up from the 17 I was getting. Transmission only acts up when its below freezing and not warmed up. I hope to get to 200k miles but I beat the sh!t out of my fishing rig escape
@@StevesGarage Update... Had the tranny rebuilt. My mechanic showed me the broken parts after the tear-down. Fresh fluid would not have worked in my case. It required quite a bit of work just to remove the tranny, being this was an all-wheel drive.
steve
i have ford escape 2008 but i can't find place to fill the fluid .
please give me video to find it
You fill the fluid through the transmission dipstick tube as I show in the video.
@@StevesGarage
i don't have this tube .
they say you can find under the transmission to fill the fluid but i can't find it
@@cahoc99 Do you have a hybrid or manual transmission? I don't know about the manual, but I know the hybrid has a fill plug underneath as opposed to through the dipstick tube in the engine bay.
Could you do a video on how to get an accurate reading from the dipstick? I have followed the 30 km warm up and reading but get different readings depending on if fan is on, and also fluid doesn't seem to stick to dipstick well? The textured boxes between add and do not add are not fully covered
To be completely honest, I had a hard time getting an accurate reading as well. I drove the car for about 30 minutes, shifted the gears around, put it in park, and I would get a different reading each time. It's best to measure the amount you drained out of the transmission, add that back, and then drive the car around. That's what I did during this procedure, and my car has been shifting great. I'm not sure why this transmission has an issue, I've never had trouble reading a transmission dipstick before. Before your comment I figured I was the only one.
@@StevesGarage My 08 escape tranny dipstick does the same. i don't get a reading at all. never has made it to the hatches. before watching this video i did the same as you Steve and just replaced the amount that had came out from draining. unfortunately the 2-4 band has gone on my transmission and i needed a sub frame and some other parts because of rust damage due to the weather and salt used over here in good old Ontario, Canada. I was lucky enough to find an 2010 with a blown engine and a rebuilt tranny (still under warranty) with less the 5,000 kms on it. I believe this procedure allowed me to drive my escape with only 1st and 3rd gears for over a year. the tranny never died i just ended up switching it out when i found the other escape i bought with the blown engine for 750 canadian loonies lol. Great video Steve
@@jaykeegan5980 I feel you with the rust! This car has lived its whole like in Michigan, so it's pretty rusty underneath and on the body itself. It's the only automatic I've owned that can't seem to give me a reading on the transmission dipstick. Pretty lucky with getting a low mileage transmission! At that point I'm sure the power-train and drive-train outlasted the rest of the car! Thanks for the comment!
Accurate readings a difficult, that’s why I just replace how much I take out. Idiot proof.
How many miles did it have before you changed the fluid?
Just shy of 110k miles. In other words, too long haha.
I have no problems in shifting but fluid color is turning brown.
Transmission fluid or engine oil will get dark pretty quickly, it only takes a couple heat cycles for that to happen. That being said, preventative maintenance is never a bad thing! I don't think you'd be doing any harm by changing it before you have issues with the transmission shifting.
Excellent video, thanks. I had to get a used tranny for my Escape 2011 as the original one fried . I noticed that this newer tranny does what you mention, especially in the mornings , the gear tries to shift and revs up. Do you think that by changing the fluid once again, will get rid of the problem?
It's definitely worth a shot! A used transmission is definitely a gamble since you don't know the mileage or condition of it (maybe you do?) A fluid change can't hurt. It seemed to fix mine for the rest of my ownership of the car.
@@StevesGarage Thanks. I hope the shop doesn't find it weird for me to ask them to change the fluid 3 times!! I can't do it myself unfortunately ( no way to go under the car )
@@jaimelopez3991 I'm sure if you're paying them to do it they wouldn't mind! I've done it where you drain the fluid, throw in some cheap stuff and run it, then drain that and put in good fluid. But that's on a car where you can change the filter as well.
The valvolime u got it's synthetic or the regular one, for the trans fluid. At what mileage should this flush be done rather than just a drain and fill, thanks, I have a 2012 ford escape 4cylinder and It has no fuel filter outside to change , it's integrated inside the fuel tank.
I went with full synthetic transmission fluid since that's what is compatible with the specified fluid by Ford. In my experience with automatic transmissions the change interval is 60-100k. Ford says it's lifetime, but I'd probably do 60 since these transmissions clearly have issues shifting.
As for the fuel filter, I don't know of a car with an external fuel filter. They're always located in the tank. Personally I don't touch them unless the car is having fuel delivery problems that could be caused by a clogged fuel filter or bad pump. Kind of a 'don't fix what isn't broken' type of situation.
@@StevesGarage thanks, also for changing the fluid is only drain and fill? I saw some other videos saying that they don't advise flushing the fluid of the transmission since it may cause problems. Is that true?
Correct, drain and fill only with a transmission. Flushing the transmission can force out metal particles (which are good for the transmission) and built up crud (which should stay where it is). Even the procedure I outline here is ok. A repeated drain and fill just gets more of the old fluid out, and it's the procedure outlined in a Ford dealer service manual.
@@StevesGarage I noted my 2012 ford escape manual it says that for trans fluid it requires mercon LV but it doesn't say to use full synthetic. The only full synthetic to use is on engine oil change. So I am a bit confused. Mines is a 2.5l 4cyl.
@@justlg3359 Valvoline Mercon LV fluid is labeled as full synthetic. Motorcraft Mercon LV isn't labeled as full synthetic on the bottle, so I don't know what that technically is. The Valvoline ATF is labeled as compatible. I've been running it in my car, so I can tell you that it doesn't grenade the transmission.
Any opinion on the Valvoline ATF that you used vs Mercon LV? My concern is that given the filter can’t really be changed I might as well be a sucker for the Motorcraft stuff.
One thing that I did that has significantly helped my shifting is resetting the adaptive shift tables using Forscan. My Escape used to jump hard from 1st to 2nd and lag from 3rd to 4th. I had gotten the vehicle used so whoever had it before must have been real hard on it. After I reset tables and took it out for a drive to relearn the shift points, it’s been pretty solid. Still harsh here and there so I’m hoping a change of transmission fluid will help out with that. I also have noticed that at higher speeds rpms will kinda drag out before shift so I think a throttle body cleaning is in the books as well.
Thanks for the heads up about resetting the shift tables! I didn't know about that. This car was owned by a family member since new, and was babied it's whole life, so who knows the reason for the bad shifting. Might just be a bad transmission. I had a lot of experience with W-Body GM cars, and those transmissions sucked no matter what you did.
As for the fluid, I can't offer any objective advice. This is the first Ford I've owned long term so I don't have much experience with their fluid vs 'aftermarket'. I do run the Ford engine oil since it's inexpensive and recommended, and that hasn't given me any issues. I went with the Valvoline ATF since it was locally available and I was hoping it might perform better than the OEM fluid. So far so good. I'll occasionally get a bit of a hang before shifting, but it's no longer a regular occurrence, and I have no more hard shifts. Let me know how yours makes out with the fluid change, and I'll have to look into resetting the shift tables on mine.
Does a ford escape 2.3 08 need mercon V or mercon LV
It should say on your dipstick tube handle. Different transmissions may take different fluid, so I don't want to mislead you.
What book is that that shows how to do it? Seems like a good book for repairs
It's the Ford dealer service manual. I bought it on ebay and it was worth every penny. The diagrams show part numbers as well, which I've never seen before. It's so handy if just for the part numbers alone.
@@StevesGarage may I know the name of the book so I can buy it too please thanks
@@justlg3359 It's just called "Workshop Manual" with the year and model of the car. If you search eBay for workshop or dealer service manual they should pop up. That's how I bought mine. The other option is your standard Chilton or Haynes manual you find in parts stores.
@@StevesGarage but which is better to buy? The Haynes or Chilton which give much better and more accurate repairs
@@justlg3359 Haynes and Chilton is about the same. The dealer style manual is by far the best, but it's also probably the priciest of the options. If you're doing a lot of work on the car it's well worth the money for the detailed information it provides.
Is your procedure flushing transmission fluid ?
If not , can we do flush transmission fluid or not possible ?
I was always told to never do a transmission flush, just do a drain and fill. In the case of the Escape, it doesn't have a serviceable filter which is why I repeat the process 3 times. Flushing a transmission typically causes more harm than good as it loosens up any build up and sends it through the transmission. A pressure flush can also push out seals that would have otherwise not been an issue.
@@StevesGarage Thanks a lot Mr. Steve for informative reply
@@abualwaleed369 You're welcome, happy to help!
My 2010 Escape has 122k, it shifts ok but when it gets hot, around 30mph-40mph it shifts hard, slips. Never changed transmission fluid because dealer mechanics, manual said “lifetime” fluid, now I learn the hard way. Some recommended to change the transmission fluid, others said to me if I change it now it will harm the transmission more.
I'm going to preface this with - Every car is different. That being said, I've never damaged the transmission by changing the fluid. If you do a flush, meaning force the old fluid and metal shavings out and put new in, you can damage it. A drain and fill is usually fine for the transmission.
If you don't want to follow the whole procedure I outlined in the video, you could try a single drain and fill and see how the transmission reacts. Myself and other commenters seem to have great luck doing that on these transmissions,
HI @@StevesGarage thanks for the video, just one question, do you think there is really big differences between doing one drain and fill or the 3x??
I put "lifetime gasoline" on my car, the only problem is my car's lifetime is now 350 miles. Amazing how people will fall for bullshit, as long as it comes from an "Authority Figure". I would do what StevesGarage recommended, then change it every 10K miles if it responded positively.
@@marioarguello6989 Every 10k might be a little aggressive. If I remember correctly transmissions are typically 30k-60k. That being said, every 10k would be cheap insurance! I change the engine oil on my Jetta once a year or every 3k since it's approaching 200k. Oil changes are cheaper than other engine problems!
@@CarlosLara-te1zk The biggest difference is by doing it 3 times you'll get more of the old fluid out, and more of the new fluid in. I've done a 2x change on cars where you can drop the pan and filter which in itself allows to get more of the old fluid out. If your transmission is functioning ok and you're being proactive, a drain and fill would probably be fine. If you're having hard shifts I'd say do the 3x to achieve the best results.
Would adding some Lucas on the final change help as well?
I don't think it can hurt! I've personally never used it, but know plenty of people who have with great results. With the way these transmissions are, I say go it.
Thanks. I've had the same experience myself. Never used it but heard good things. Konda wish I knew about this transmission issue before I bought mine.
@@thefuzzyone3283 This car was bought new by my wifes family and dealer maintained until we got it. It's lived a pretty easy life, so I assume no matter what you do these transmissions are going to stop shifting well.
Had I known about the transmission before it started happening I probably would have done some preventative fluid changes to see if I could stave off any shifting issues for as long as possible.
Tiene bastante óxido su camioneta
Una lijadita y body y queda al 100
I'm trusting google translate here - but yea, the Escape is pretty rusty. 10+ years of rough winters and it not being washed regularly have lead to it being pretty rusty everywhere!
Is it safe to do at 170k miles?
Every car is different, but I don't see why not. Are you getting rough shifts? If the transmission is performing fine I'd leave it alone, if it's shifting rough I'd give it a shot.
Are those 5 quart jugs or 4?
5qt jugs!
So what type fluid does it take?
Mercon LV according to Ford. I have a 2010 and just changed mine.
Any fluid compatible with Mercon LV.
Correct!
Opinion on castrol universal at walmart
I haven't used it, but I do use Castrol engine oil. The data sheet for Castrol Universal says it meets the standards for Mercon LV, so I'd say you're ok.
I went to a mechanic with my 2010 Ford escape Limited today (118k miles just bought it used a week ago). I asked them to do a flush but they did the same thing you did (all they did was empty the old fluid and added new one) but they charged $120. Did I get ripped off? It looks easy to do I should of watched this video first and not after lol also how many miles should you changed it? In the manual it says every 60k.
Honestly, I wouldn't say that's a bad price. The Valvoline ATF I used was $30 a bottle and I used 3 for the change. He may have only done one drain and fill, but I still don't think it's a bad price. Most shops in my area are $100+ for an hour of labor, so I wouldn't say $120 is being ripped off. As far as change interval, I think the 60k you read is for the TorqShift transmission, which isn't in the Escape. As far as I knew for the Escape it's 150k interval. I don't think changing it early is bad though. It helped on my car, and from the couple of comments on this video it seemed to have helped others as well.
@@StevesGarage ok cool. Yeah it looks easy to do I may just do it my self from now on in the future. Thanks for the info you’re channel has become the Ford Escape channel 😂😂👌👌
@@unvcht5046 It's not a bad job at all. About on par with changing engine oil I'd say. While you don't have a filter to replace, you have the hassle of refilling the ATF through the dipstick tube. I'm glad the video helped!
@@StevesGarage what hassle of refilling on the filter?
@@StevesGarage is it better that theirs no filter on the Escape or not?
I dont have a drain plug there?
Do you have a 4cyl model? There might be a difference between the transmissions on 4 and 6cyl models, though there was no indication of that in my repair manual.
No sir. Turns out i have a cd4e tranny or something like that
Ohhh, so you must have an 07 or 08 with the 4spd auto then? Because I think 09 and up all get the 6spd auto.
I don’t see a jackstand brother ..
don’t do that!
You're right, always use a jack stand. I can fit under the car without lifting it, I had the jack under there to make it easier to film.
CVT, right?
This is the V6, so it's just a regular automatic. I believe it's the 6spd because the 4spd went out of production in 2007.
That’s a 1st gen not a 2nd
Definitely a 2nd gen. First gen is the rounder one built from 01-07.
So what type fluid does it take?
In the video I used Valvoline MaxLife Full Synthetic ATF. You can use whatever compatible ATF you'd like, but this was available at my local parts store, and seems to be good quality fluid.
I thought they only called for mercon lv fluid. Is that what the full synthetic is?
@@tjham5888 The fluid I used is compatible with Mercon LV fluid.