Best Bench Mounted Chainsaw Sharpener for Under $200 Vevor Brand - E145
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- čas přidán 3. 07. 2024
- See below for a Discount Code for Vevor and a Link to the Chainsaw Sharpener showcased in this video!
Sharpener Link (Canada):
s.vevor.com/bfP8jr
Sharpener Link (USA):
s.vevor.com/bfP7Uc
Discount Code:
VVMH5%OFF (5% off on all products)
Jason reviews a Vevor bench mounted chainsaw sharpener and does speed trials on a dull chain, sharpened chain and a brand new chain out of the box. This is a reasonably priced, good quality bench mounted sharpener.
Important Note: All videos on this channel are intended for entertainment purposes only and not intended to be instructional in any way. The creator does not represent or warrant the accuracy, or proper, safe or intended use of any equipment or practices presented in the videos. Viewers should consult their own manufacturer instructional and safety information including any local laws applicable to the similar use or operation of any similar or same equipment before use. These videos are not intended to be relied upon for such correct or safe operation of same or similar equipment or practices.
This video is sponsored by Vevor.
Looks like a great tool for the woodyard! Nice review.
Thank-you! Now I have to go hunt for more dull chains so that I can keep fine tuning and practicing!
Happiness is a sharp chain. :)
Thanks Jeff, I need a little practice but I think it is going to work well. Saw building is coming along nicely at your place! Take care, Jason.
Thank you for the video. I recently received one of these and wanted to learn a bit more about it. New Sub!
Let me know how you make out with it.
@@OakMountainAcotts just shot some video on it. I may have received a bad one. Arbor has a mile of runout!
I have one it’s a nice rig…..works great..
Thanks Allen, do you find you need to touch up with a round file afterwards? A few guys mentioned this to me today… thsnks
bot 2 of these here in northern California, paid 94.00 apiece, very happy, practically an exact replica of my old Oregon brand that now sells for over 400 us dollars
I’m glad to hear that. I like to support local but some of this stuff all comes from the same place with a different brand added. I’m not saying this is the case with Oregon but if the quality is the same, I’m all for saving a few bucks!
Thanks Jason, that review took some work to accomplish and you did a fine job, I have a similar grinder and there is alot of tricks to making a good grind off of a bench top grinder, the biggest one for me is getting oil off of chain before grinding as you noticed a black line is forming on wheel that is oil which leads to the biggest issue and that is heat, and that will take away temper. I also use a dressing stone at least once on a chain. Rakers, depth gauge, are important after using grinder. Thanks again.
Good feedback Mark and much appreciated. How do you remove the oil from the chain? It sounds like an important step for sure. Lots of fine tuning to do yet but I think it is going to be a good asset to the woodlot business. The video was an all day affair with production and editing, thanks for noticing!
@@OakMountainAcotts I use break cleaner, and I keep a pail of mineral spirits and let chains soak, after sharpening I hang chains and spray them with any penetrating oil.
Awesome thanks!
Oil is a major issue as well so is a clean chain. That oil gets on your stone as well and that causes problems . you need to dress your stone and keep oil off your stone if you continue using pink stone. A cbn stone is totally different as far as dressing so beware .
nice little gadget
Thanks Rick! Nice to get stuff like this in the mail from time to time!
Hi, at 5.11 you state that the centre screw on the vice is for ensuring tight grip. My understanding is that this screw is for adjustment to allow for difference of diameter of grinding disc as it wears. To ensure that the cutter length is same when swap from left to right.
If not gripping drive link tight enough, the cam lever is mounted on an eccentric ground stud, which can be adjusted to correct. Loosen the nut & rotate the offset cam a little, tight nut, test , redo till ideal found. When removing the clamp from base beware of detent balls & springs inside.
Great information. I haven’t used the sharpener again since I made this video! I would only use it to really bring a chain back if the cutters were uneven I think… I still prefer to file by hand!
How's she goin'? You guys did a nice job on this video. Nice explanation and great camera angles. I think taking the rakers down some might make the cutting quicker after the Vevor sharpening. I just bought a sharpener from Princess Auto and it does do a nice job. I was surprised that these power sharpeners worked as well as they do!! Thanks for sharing and take care!!
Hi Mike, it takes a long time to shoot a decent review video as you know! We spent a full day making and editing this one! Thanks for stopping by!
@@OakMountainAcotts It was worth it!!
Hi, firstly you want a 30° angle for chainsaw cutting (greater the angle quicker the cut, but to great, dulls quicker). Play around with the grinder head angle too, this helps, but more powerful saws will take teeth off if to much.
The other thing you'll notice is once sharpened chain on a bench grinder, hand filling will prove hard, as you'll temper the teeth.
Mine has saved me a lot of time, specially with the big saws, so good luck, but you should be able to cut quicker than a new chain, pay attention to your depth gauge/raker
P.S. love what you're doing
Thanks for the tips Nick. I’m still dialing it in so all information is appreciated!
First of all I wanted to tell you it's a very nice video. And I just purchased the same chainsaw sharpener today. I've owned other chainsaw sharpeners before, but only Stihl. Thank you for answering the question about that adjustment screw that is on the back side of the chain vise. I could not figure out what their book was trying to tell me to do about centering the chain and then tightening it up, I almost thought before I watched your video that the purpose for that set screw was exactly what you said and that was to put a little bit of tension on the back side of the Vise so that you don't get as much wobble. But my other question is, when I unboxed it and I got it put together, there is a little Chrome clip and a short screw on the back side where the spring is that lifts the motor up and down and when it was on there the motor would not go up quite as high in between cuts and it was also hard to change the sharpening stone, so I removed that little clip in that short screw and nothing flew apart and nothing broke and it allows the motor to raise up a little bit higher out of the way. I wondered did you see that clip and screw on your model also and what did you do with it?
Hi there, we always appreciate the feedback on our videos so that we can continuously improve. It's been a while since we shot this video and once I had the unit put together and I mounted it on an 8" x 8" beam since then. I'll have to take a look to see if I can see the chrome clip and screw you are speaking about. Could it simply be a stop for the spring to hit? I'll take a look at ours.... thanks for watching!
I have a Chicago Electric Chainsaw chain sharpener it’s okay , it gets the saw tooth sharp . But I will need to get a professional chainsaw sharpener soon !
Nice. These ones work pretty well!
that gizmo may be worth it for someone who does 20-30 or more cords/year. I only do 8-10 / year so I can almost get by with no sharpening for the whole season on a brand new chain if I am careful
100% agree with you. Our production is starting to increase so tools like this will become a necessity to remain efficient. If I keep the wood clean coming out of the woods, I can easily process 5 cords on a new chain without sharpening! Thanks for watching.
Hi,
I put my chain grinder on an angle iron, which I then can put in the vise. Saves some bench space 🙂
You sure about the direction of the wheel to the tooth when grinding? I do it the other way around, tough I don't remember why.
Nice test. But a chain is not really dull until you have run it trough some frozen dirt in the bark, or hit the ground with it ;-)
That is a good idea. I may wall mount it to one of my big 8x8’s if it works out well. Not sure on wheel direction… makes more sense to have it push out like a hand file but I would have to change the motor direction to do this? These chains have lived a pampered life on the processor… I’ll have some with dirt and rock contact to try in the near future :)
@@OakMountainAcotts
Last night as I was ending the day it occurred to me that I forgot to chide you about the use of hearing protection when filming with a running chainsaw. Probably becouse I was starting the last fire of the day in the heater. Tinnitus is a real thing, as is loss of hearing. Don't ask me how I know 🙂
When grinding I do each other tooth on the chain before rotating the chain holder to do the other half. Then I change the grinding wheel to one that is shaped for it and do the guides. That is just how I do it on my grinder. Perhaps the same is possible on yours?
Felling trees with moss on, and specific types of trees in certain areas, there are always some minor sparks at my place. And the chain dulls. Same when cutting the stumps really low to make it possible to drive the tractor over them really dulls the chains. Just my experience. Never ran a wood processor with a chainsaw but perhaps I'll get to it this spring :-)
Thanks for the reminder on ear protection, I know better! We’ve been getting so much snow lately all my free time is used to plow driveways and groom the trails. Looking for a break soon to run some chainsaws!
@@OakMountainAcotts Looking forward to a new video from the forrest. Hopefully with a big spruce to clean :-)
I have read in some reviews that the blade holder don't hold tight. Any problems since you have had it a while?
No issues with our unit so far!
Great job and video , can u show your shop ?
Hi Todd, we have a few videos uploaded on the”sugar shack”. We have a homemade maple syrup boiler in there and it doubles as a work space and storage for our B2601 and woods trailer. Check out our channel!
@@OakMountainAcotts I didn't know it was the sugar shack, I'll re watch again , I saw you build it . Great job and where do you live ?
If your wood processor is using carbide chains those pink stone won't cut it . neither will the regular cbn wheel. You'll have the get the diamond carbide stones . and there about $ 120 also
I don't think the chains are carbide tipped but not 100% sure.
What about the vise angle. It should be set to 10 degrees.
Thanks!
Been where you are right now. Found the pink stones junk. They wear too fast and repeatability suffers. Bought expensive diamond stone that was more expensive then the grinder. It was better - but since then have gone back to hand filing.
If you listen to buckin Billy ray it’s all about the gullet and maintaining that “C” shape. Can’t do it with a flat stone
Hi Glenn, the stone has rounded corners which allow it to approach the tooth like a round file. I think with this machine it is all about setting up the right angles of approach!
Yes the edge of the stone is rounded but after making contact with the cutting edge it has no means of curving under that “razor edge” if you know what i mean. To keep a perfect c you need something that gets under that tip - only a round file can do that. The curve on the stone will make slight “c” in the very bottom of the gullet yes but not the top behind the leading edge
Well sharpened chain will be faster than out of the box
What would you take for those stones you don't know how to use ? And grinder also if you dnt know how to use it ?
Looking to buy one, what is the overall quality of this sharpener?
I don’t have any other brands to compare it to but I feel it is of good construction and the price is right.
You took quite a bit off the tooth when you sharpened the dull chain, so you must take the rakers down, or won’t get a fair comparison.
Hi Steve, you are correct. I think I can get factory results as I continue to fine tune this grinder and as you say, file the rakers accordingly. Thanks for watching!
Try taking the rakers down to 0.8 mm, along with a fresh sharpening and it’ll cut like hell
Yep, that is my next step. Thanks!
Absolutely on the rakers
Hey jason, sorry to bug you but is there any chance i could get the hole size of the grinding wheel from you? Im considering getting one if i can find a CBN wheel so i can sharpen mill blades with it 😊
Hi, can you give me your email? I’ll measure and send a couple pictures for you.
Hey Jason, not sure why, but the email goes away everytime I give it to you. No worries.
I’ll measure it up and post the diameter here for you
@OakMountainAcotts I really appreciate it! Thanks you
I measured up a spare disc, the outer diameter is about 5-3/4”. The arbour hole is about 13/16”.
There are a number of Chinese companies making a knock off Oregon chain grinder. This one is almost exactly like the one I have, different brand. Suggest you just freshen the chain, you were taking a lot of metal off, which reduces chain life.
Yes, looks quite a lot like the Oregon model.
Not all Oregon products are made in America. It's very likely that whoever makes this also makes Oregon's which is why they look almost identical. This type of manufacturing is happening everywhere unfortunately. For example, Moog automotive products are are perceived to be high quality parts but if you visit their plant in China, their struts are made on the same assembly line as their counterparts. They're just put in different boxes but Moog charges more.
I have mixed emotions on this topic. While I like to promote and buy local, the "off-shoring" to manufacture at a lower cost, branding to increase perceived value and distribution through a complex network to retailers all contributes to higher prices. As long as the intellectual property owners are paid for what is rightfully theirs, I see no issue with purchasing direct from the manufacturer!
Well the only thing I noticed is that it does leave a bit of a feather on the edge …that’s probably why they are resharpering their chains…I can do alot better job sharping by hand then using the grinder……but it is good for someone who is not good at sharpening by hand it will do a better job then they will.
Yeah, I’ll try one in the woods and then touch it up by hand to see if I can get it any sharper.
If you would have checked the rakers the sharpened one would have been the same as the new chain.
I use a Husqvarna guide periodically on the rakers. Lately I’ve been giving them a couple passes beyond the guide limit. A little goes a long ways though. Thanks
😁👍
Thanks for checking this video out!
If you are not cutting as fast as a new chain with your chain saw grinder try a very small amount of angle to remove a little more gullet To learn from real forest workers watch bucking billy ray smith or bjarne butler on utube Also do not get them teeth hot when grinding. Its hard to know whats going on without seeing the sawdust your saw is making Have a very good day Acotts from John
Thanks for watching!
I always cringe when I see someone, especially someone who cuts a lot, not using any safety gear (I worked in emergency medicine for over 25 years). No chaps, no eye, no hearing protection.
Thanks for the reminder
Made in China !!
Yes, I believe it is.
You get an angle finder and make sure your angles are correct with the angle finder and that China made grinder is as good as any Oregon . I've found Oregon grinders be off some. It happens.