Street Photography Settings - Fast Mode & Slow Mode
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- čas přidán 6. 07. 2024
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Learn how to best set your camera for street photography in all lighting conditions. I go into two 'modes' of shooting, one for fast subjects and one for slow subjects, and also how to quickly switch between then. The video is a bit focused on SLRs (especially Nikon), but the ideas can be applied to any camera, albeit the exact way of setting it up will vary.
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Lukasz's Instagram: / lkazphoto - Jak na to + styl
WOW, your teaching method are so good. Calm, collective, to the point and without any forced Peter McKinnon wannabee tricks. Subbed
Thanks!! It's how we run our workshops too. I just love explaining things because I find that when I do, I can also understand them a bit better myself.
You all probably dont care at all but does someone know of a tool to get back into an Instagram account?
I was dumb forgot my password. I appreciate any tips you can give me
@Nathaniel Cruz thanks so much for your reply. I found the site through google and I'm waiting for the hacking stuff atm.
Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will get back to you later with my results.
@Nathaniel Cruz It did the trick and I now got access to my account again. Im so happy:D
Thank you so much you really help me out !
@Beckham Otis no problem :)
A number of Months have passed now since I restarted my Photography, from the start I used your recommendation here in this video and everything simply woked perfectly. I then went through a couple of Months of only using manual to force myeslf to learn more in technique all the time being aware that your obvious depth of knowledge of the entire modes available and you have come to these two mode set up for use.
Now today I am switching back to these two modes with auto iso and feel refreshed as now I know I can concentrate more on my composition and less on adjusting the control over every shot. This is a great learning cureve. Thank you Lukasz and also to Axel . Cheers Terry.
Terry, thank you so much! I think usual manual mode extensively is a great way to internalize the exposure settings so they become second nature. So, I think you made the right choice to do that for a few months before switching to a more convenient method of shooting! :)
This is one of my favourite channel, so much to learn, thank you Lucas.
I'm so glad to hear that! Thank you!
One of the greatest instructors on photography. Keep doing this!
Thank you so much! Will do! :)
THX Lukasz, konkretnie i poparte przykladami z przypisanymi ustawieniami. Dzieki, ze dzelisz sie swoja wiedza! Musze wreszcie wyjsc z nowym sprzetem w teren i wyprobowac to co u Ciebie podpatrzylem...:-) Pozdrawiam z Wiednia.
Cieszę się że pomogłem! Powodzenia!
I always wanted to know what's your setting and finally this video comes! Thank you for imparting your knowledge to us!
Glad you found it useful!!
Amazing video, always impressed by your them .
Thank you!! :)
Awesome channel, great information presented in a no-nonsense style. Grateful whacking discovered your channel! Keep up the good work!
Thank you! Will do!
Thanks for your great video Lucasz!
My pleasure! :)
Another great and informative video, Lukasz. Many thanks
My pleasure! :)
Great video Lukasz! Gonna try these tips out!
Thanks!! :)
Lucas, you are the answer to my prayers. The 10% has been holding up the 90% for the three years I have had my dslr. My goal for 2020 is to master this camera. You have given me a great kivkstart
Glad to hear that!!
Nice! Finally CZcams recommendations did great.
Glad to hear that!! :)
This was amazing. After watching your 'Get better at street' video I was trying to work out your settings so to have your 'slow mode' and 'fast mode' explained is invaluable. Thanks so much Lucasz. Your photos are great too!
Thank you very much!! Glad you found this video useful too! :)
Your "quick note" about Nikon's default sensitivity just saved me so much trouble, I couldnt figure out why my camera was defaulting to a higher iso and ridiculously fast shutter speed in broad daylight. Thank you!
Yeah, it's one of those things in photography, we have to learn to read the camera's mind in a sense. This is one reason I like to stick with a camera even when something better comes along. It becomes kinda of an extension of the mind.
Wow! This is so useful! Thanks for sharing this!
Our pleasure!!
Excellent advice, clear and concise. Many thanks.
Thank you! :)
I use this exact same setup on sony, and it's just ideal.
There's an alternate version I've been enjoying lately too. Using a manual lens and in manual mode. ISO is auto. Shutter is 1/250. Aperture is on the lens. Focal range is hyperfocal to infinity. With this set up, the camera has nothing it can touch except iso. So shooting requires literally nothing but composition. Supposing you do need to adjust exposure (cameras aren't perfect), it's simply a roll of the Exposure Compensation dial. The camera only has ISO to leverage, so rolling the exposure compensation leaves all your settings alone and simply under or over exposed as controlled by the iso. If you need to preserve highlights on a bright day, then you simply roll the shutter instead. Faster shutter speed deals with the issue of too much light. In either case, focus and aperture remain locked and correct.
Anyway, awesome video! More people should know this info.
Great! I used to shoot exclusively with manual lenses. Having the aperture ring on the lens was was so good ergonomically speaking. :)
thank you so much for your tips, extremely helpful!
Thank you for saying so! :)
Another outstanding video from you!!
I learned, I’m grateful l, I thank you🙏
Our pleasure!!
Some good stuff here, really useful, thx
Glad you found it useful!
I just found and subscribed to your channel. Really awesome videos and useful tips!
Thank you!! :)
Thanks a lot for sharing your knowledge!!
My pleasure!
Subscribed, amazing video!
Thank you!! :)
Rukasu Sensei arigatou!
My pleasure!! :)
Great Channel. Thank you for creating this valuable content...👍
Our pleasure!
Wow i will apply that on my next street photowalk thank you for the tips man. More power
My pleasure! Good luck! :)
Great tips, thanks a lot!
No problem!
Just subscribed. I'm going to Japan in April going to be using this advice in my street photography when I'm in Tokyo. It be cool to see you on the streets haha.
Sounds great! Thank you so much!
Love it. Simple photography alot. I can purely focus on how to frame the photo
Thank you!! :)
Waw!! This IS useful. Fast and slow mode.
Thanks! Not real 'modes' in the camera but 'modes' of setting/using the camera. :)
@@EYExplore yes Lukaz.. but is really nice to have an idea on how you shoot since i also love street photography and your works are really great inspiration!
@@dale.gallaza I'm glad to hear that!
Thanks a lot for the explanation between Aperture and Speed Mode. I was wondering about it since a time as i've heard the Aperture Mode was prioritized by many street Photographers
Yes, this is the main reason! :)
Not all heroes wear capes!
:)
Wow thank you so much for this!!! I’m very new to photography and I see so many videos but no one ever says how they set there settings during a shoot.
Our pleasure!! This is what we do in our workshops! :)
Great tips, I'm a Nikon (D750) user myself will try these settings.
Tnx for video.
Glad to hear that! :)
Thank you.
My pleasure!!
Hiya Lukasz! You're quickly becoming one of my favourite photographers ever. I can't stop binging your videos!
I have a question. Do you shoot with neutral picture setting, and then set to camera standard in editing software? I'm really curious on how you actually do it
Thank you so much!! You are correct, I keep the Picture Control to Neutral. In editing I use either the Adobe Standard profile or Camera Neutral profile. I did a video on editing that you can see here: czcams.com/video/mpynhlvs8Dk/video.html
Super helpful!!!
Thank you!
@@EYExplore no sir, thank YOU!!
Great tips, I'm a Nikon user myself will put these tips to use. Oh subbed by the way 👍🏻👌🏻
Thank you!!
This is great information! Could you please cover a little bit more about your color setting?
Well that's easy! Auto white balance and raw format! I do all the color stuff on the computer. And for that we have a video on the channel about editing.
This is great. What are you pressing when you jump between the two modes?
The D4 has a Mode button. You hold it down and then turn the back dial, and that switches between PSAM. Conveniently A and M are right next to each other in the selection order, so it's a very quick switch. :)
Thanks for sharing these great tips, Lukasz. I'd just ask you what if i can't set minimum shutter speed on my camera? Do you recommend to switch on manual mode? Btw when you're on your "slow mode" in the daylight what's the shutter speed that you use generally? Thanks
I rarely have to use slow shutter speeds in the daylight because there's plenty of light to work with. But if I need a slower, it's the same as at night, usually 1/60. If I can't set a minimum shutter speed, then yes I would use manual but keep ISO on auto. Some cameras, like the Ricoh GR II, call this TAv mode.
'Discovered' your channel via Jason Vong and really love your work, IMHO it's excellent and inspirational so you now have a new subscriber and follower. I notice you largely shoot with an 85mm lens, don't have one of those, my choices are 'limited' to a 24-70 and a 105mm f2 DC (yes, I'm a Nikon shooter, D810). Of the two which would you suggest goes on the camera?
Thank you!! I don't use an 85mm. People were saying that a lot in the comments on his video with me because the last guy he interviewed said he uses one. I use either a 28mm or 40mm prime and occasionally use zoom lenses. Generally, I don't use lenses longer than 70mm.
Interesting video....... I have a Sony A7 with a good dynamic range. Would be a exposure compensation of -3 or -7 a good idea in low light situations to avoid burning streetlights?
Having a good dynamic range is great, and allows you to underexpose more and protect the highlights. When you say -3 or -7, I'm guessing you mean -.3 and -.7? In words that's -1/3 and -2/3 of one stop. I'm recommending one whole stop, so -1.0 and as much as -2.0 just to be clear.
I love your content, but more importantly, your philosophy and passion and attention to the right things. I'm always fearful of using more opened apertures because of the smaller depth of field, and more things being out of focus. I have 2 questions:
(1) As a rule of thumb, do you use a single-shot focusing mode or a continuous auto-focus mode? Or which would you recommend for someone who's just starting out with street photography?
(2) When focusing to make a street photo, do you use a single-point of a flexible spot? And where do you recommend focusing: The face, the chest, body, etc...
Thanks.
I'm very glad you love what we do! To answer your questions:
1) I use Continuous AF on my Nikon and Single AF on my Ricoh GR II. More specifically, on Nikon I use the 3D-tracking AF mode, which is absolutely fantastic for street photography. We will do a video on this in more detail soon! My recommendation when you're starting out is to use AF Single, with a single point in the center, and learn to focus and recompose on the fly. If you do have a tracking mode in your camera, do try to make use of it.
2) I always use single point for maximum control. I tend to put it wherever there is contract and within the same focal plane of my subject. So if there is a sign next to someone's face with lots of contrast, I know the camera will focus there very easily and quickly. I don't need to focus on their face necessarily if it's not as well illuminated, even if the face is my main subject. You have to try to think like your camera. I will make a video on this topic soon as well!
Do you have recommendations for camera hardware for hobbyists? Maybe that could be a video.
Yeah good idea! I would say Fuji cameras are very good for street photography.
I switched to a different brand and forgot setting shutter speed minimum. I went outside using aperature priority but ran inside shooting forgetting to switch my settings. The camera decided 1/60 was good and almost all my pictures came out blurry. I had been asked to be the photographer for the Chinese New Year's celebration but turned it down. I said I was still an amateur and boy was I glad I did! That would have been embarrassing. ☺️ I think settings are everything because if they're not good, even if your photo composition will be perfect, the photos will be ruined. Great advice thanks for the video.
I'm glad you found it useful! Thank you! For shooting events, sometimes I use Aperture mode, but sometimes I do actually use full manual. Events are a bit different than street photography because you tend to work in the same space which has consistent lighting, in which case full manual is more reliable.
nice tuto. isn't it confusing to have auto iso in manual mode ? on z6ii, i use fix 100iso and if i can't have good expo in viewfinder with my aperture and speed, i tune the iso but it takes time to think and adjust and i can miss the shoot. i remember i was also surprised with auto iso when i used a godox V1 on-camera. hard to know how iso will react.
Not really. Manual mode just means manual shutter and aperture, not manual exposure. I don't need the exposure to be manual for street photography. It's exactly as you say, it takes time to think, and I don't want to miss a shot because I am messing with exposure settings. I let the camera do the hard work. If you use my recommended settings often, you get to know your camera and how it reacts in different situations. You can predict what it will do and adjust EV accordingly.
Base Nikon D3500 can be set for minimum shutter speed, but base models of Olympus and Panasonic may not have this. If using those cameras, with a kit lens, it works to use Shutter Priority since the f stop will be just fine for DOF and most likely never get into narrow apertures where diffraction is a problem. There are models of MFT which of course do have the ability to set minimum shutter speed + auto-ISO. On the less expensive models, when the light is giving you troubles in any way, and wanting to use Aperture Priority the option is to bump the ISO to keep the shutter speed up. And that 1/250 is good, but if there is medium fast movement going on 1/320 might be better. I don't shoot many hummingbirds however ;) I wonder what that minimum would be?
This is true, but I'm not really worried about narrow apertures and diffraction, rather wide apertures and shallow DOF. But I suppose if you have a lens with max aperture of f/3.5 or f/4 then this is not a major issue. Regarding the min speed, of course it can be selected for taste/need. I find that 1/250 is needed to freeze motion of people walking at a normal pace. But if they are walking directly perpendicular to the camera and I'm going for sharp outlines/silhouettes, then as much as 1/500 might be needed. But in practice, I find this a rare necessity for street photography.
Thanks!
Thanks for watching!
Which metering mode do you use for your street photography?
PS, love your videos. They have helped me tremendously as a new photographer. Thank you.
I always use Evaluative Metering, or Matrix Metering as Nikon calls it. I'm very glad to hear you enjoy our videos!! :)
@@EYExplore Funny thing, I found your video on this topic about 10 minutes after I wrote my comment. I really appreciate that you replied. I understand that photography is not all about camera settings and gear, but your videos have really helped me realize the capabilities of my camera which make the creative process flow much smoother for me. Thank you for taking the time to put this information out there.
@@LeeSeibert thanks for saying so! That is my goal with this channel!! :)
Do you set these to your custom settings? I think you do, but it wasn't clear to me in the video. Thank you!
You mean so do I add them to the quick settings menu? Yes, but that's not crucial. If you mean the custom settings that are labeled Setting A, Setting B, etc.... then I don't use those.
@@EYExplore great. Thank you
The thing is I want to make photos in the A mode but the Sony alpha 7 ii don’t have the iso Auto min.ss I think, do you know here I can. finde this function ?
I'm not sure if that camera has it. It's in the camera settings menu, and the setting is called ISO AUTO Min. SS.
I love revisiting your content for guidance and inspiration. I have seen the aperture priority recommendation for street photography often. Do you still recommend using aperture priority for the majority of street photography application? What are your thoughts in shooting in Manual Mode, but setting it up and shooting like aperture mode (i.e. mimicking aperture priority)? That way you're still only effectively changing aperture on the fly, but can go from "fast" to "slow" modes by adjusting the shutter speed. Would this be a good process, or would it complicate things too much? LOL!!
And in aperture priority, the camera is trying to expose to get the light meter in the middle. Do you simply bump the exposure compensation to brighten up the shot?
As always, thanks for the individualized attention and help.
Thank you so much!! Generally I use Aperture Priority most of the time and switch to Manual only when I want a shutter speed slower than 1/250, but leave ISO on Auto. And in that case, I could just crank up the speed to 1/250 and treat it like the Aperture mode. The only problem is that sometimes that's not fast enough! And so I would rather just not worry about it and the the camera decide as long as it's over 1/250. This cut off is arbitrary. You could use 1/500 if you prefer. And honestly, sometimes I do even I'm dealing with more motion and want to freeze the action (like when shooting silhouettes of people passing by).
I do use full manual when shooting on a tripod or when I know I'm going to be a particular spot for a while. Also, it's very useful in a situation where the light is changing but I know I want the same exposure each time, for example when dealing with bright LED signs that change color.
Finally, yeah I just learned over time what the camera is likely to do in various situation and then adjust EV accordingly. Usually at night I'm walking around with the exposure compensation on -0.7 or -1.0. Hope that helps! :)
@@EYExplore These are great to know.
(1) For night photography, do you normally walk around with the EV stopped down like that it order to make sure you get the darks and contrast appropriate, namely because of the lights and being able to keep that under control as well?
(2) If you're in Av, with a minimum shutter of 1/250th, what do you do if you need to go faster? Do you simply quickly switch to your manual mode and set from there?
(3) Are there any drawbacks to setting the minimum shutter to 1/500 instead of 1/250? Will that have a tendency to drive the auto ISO too high in order to compensate for that high shutter speed?
Thanks.
@@ofthewayministries
(1) Yes!
(2) Exactly!
(3) That's exactly right! :)
@@EYExplore This method/process is really helpful in freeing up the variables so I can focus on the image and scene. But I'm running into something, and I'm not sure what the cause is or how to remedy it, and would love your wisdom/advise on this. In short, I went into a coffee shop bakery (with a lot of natural light, though not as bright as being directly outside). I had set my camera to Av Mode: f8 (to have more of the scene in focus), and ISO auto (with minimum shutter speed of 1/250th). From there, the camera did its thing, and selected f8, 1/320th, and ISO 20000. You can probably guess what the problem may be at this point... an I came home to edit the photo, I had to brighten it up a little, and then I saw that image had a lot of noise. To my understanding, based on my desired aperture, the camera will work with the ISO to get to the desired exposure (without going below the min shutter setting), and once its hits the max limit for ISO and the min for shutter, it will then start knocking down the shutter further. My question is how am I to help manage how much noise is introduced into the image while in Av Mode. It seems to hit the max ISO limit easily while trying to keep the shutter somewhere around 1/250th to freeze action. In short, I'm constantly hitting that higher ISO ceiling. Any ideas or hints or guidance? Thanks.
@@ofthewayministries Well, I would set my max ISO much lower than 20,000. I use 6400 as my max ISO. So, my camera would never hit 20,000. Instead it would lower the shutter speed below the minimum, as you point out. I would also argue that if it's that dark that the camera needed 20000 ISO to make a good exposure with f/8 and 1/250, then I would either open the aperture or reduce the shutter speed. Obviously, you can't have all the settings you want since the you have to adapt to the lighting at hand.
some cameras dont have iso sensitivity setting like panasonic GX85
I'm sure you can change ISO on the GX85. I just looked it up and of course you can!
Here is the manual: eww.pavc.panasonic.co.jp/dscoi/DMC-GX80/EG_EC_EF_EB/guideENG.pdf
Mode 2: why manual instead of aperture priority with min SS at 1/60. Less chance of exposure screwup
Good questions! It's because changing the min SS requires going to the menu while changing to manual happens at the flick of a dial. And there is no issue with exposure screw up unless the ISO maxes out, which is something that's easy to keep an eye on (for me) as the ISO is shown in the bottom of the viewfinder. :)
Zdjęcia, które pokazujesz, są przed obróbką czy po?
Po, ale ja nie obrabiam tak bardzo. Mam inny video o moim sposobie obróbki.
Wise tip, to have 2 speed presets.
Glad you think so!! :)
OSU!
:)
are u still in japan?
Yes! :)
Settings are important, that’s how an exposure is created.
Most definitely! :)
yes S mode sucks my shots are always blown out I always shoot A mode. because my style is always fast. and when I do shoot a set up shot I adjust the exposure comp. .. But ill try this slow mode. I am dissapointed with my backgrounds and framing in a lot of my photos. but I just started street p last year. @tokyo_tableaux.
It's a good start. You just gotta keep at it!
Attention fuji user:
minimum shutter speed will still go lower if the camera thinks you hit the max iso and there is still not enough light.
I hope fuji will implement and true lock on SS.
This is true for all cameras! It's not a hard minimum. Otherwise photos will be underexposed. I find a hard lock to me useless. If I see the shutter speed getting too low, then I just open up the aperture. If that's no enough, turn it means the scene is simply too dark.
@@EYExplore Thank you, I thought that was only on fuji, i didn't remember it happening on my 5d, but it was given to me when i started and didn't noticed it wasnt locking.
Maybe it never needed to, that's why.
@@EYExplore I just looked for you on flickr, i really dig your photos!
@@TTROPVNR Actually, on Canon there are two ways to do it, one with a soft minimum, which is the way I describe in the video, and one way with a hard minimum, which I don't recommend because it can lead to underexposure.
@@TTROPVNR Thank you!
Completely unrealistic to use a big body camera for this topic. Most street shooters don't use a huge camera. In many cases people are shooting with a camera so small it cannot do the settings you are discussing. At 2:47 I stopped the video thinking this is a camera snob and the information being provided is of no use to the majority of aspiring street photographers.
I know plenty people who do use large SLRs for street photography, myself included. Plus, all Nikons down to the smallest one, including the new Z50 have these settings. My Ricoh GR II, which I also use, has these settings. Fuji and Sony also have these settings (as I mentioned in the video).
I don't see how the size of the camera factors into the settings that can be applied to it. So, you can take issue with me doing street photography with my choice of camera (though it serves me very well) but I see no reason to discount the info I provide since it applies to plenty of cameras that are typically considered suitable for street photography.