Agreed..and Honestly I think I just reached my goal with some modest changes! Here is a sneak peek! New mods are in description of that quick video. czcams.com/users/shortsHmz4SHjazeI?feature=share
For these bikes the carb conversion is the best bet.After a few years if real world abuse the efi will get unreliable as do all these modern bikes.Your cylinder head temp never overheats with a carb tuned properly while itis a big problem with lean burning efi.
I’ve dynos the bike and it included a full custom fuel map, and egt map, and air fuel analyzer..this is fine tuned to be much more precise than a carberator. It has run perfect temperatures, but you do you!
@@MCCJustMotos seems like big bores on fuel injected bikes isn't as good as a carb. If there was a way you could go old school I imagine you would see the numbers you expected. The engine would take what it needed I think it's outrunning you ECU
@@jessecrawford2711 I’m not sure about carb vs. FI, but I can tell you the engine Dyno confirmed the ecu was fueling the engine optimally the whole time and not under performing. I just bought a new stage II cam and I hope that makes a huge improvement.
Funny thing. Had the first generation of the himalayan, which was carbureted (as this was meant to be a high altitude bike) Later generation introduced fuel injection to keep up with pollution norms.
Long awaited news about Power increase using Big bore Blocks and piston. To me, since there is no much significant increase in power, better keep the stock.
It’s not so much the power but the power delivery. Of all the mods I’ve done the most notable was the camshaft swap. If you do only one thing I would recommend the camshaft. The intake exhaust does little. The powertronic really smooths out throttle response.
Well I'm with you, that is a major let down. How did you come up with the initial 19 HP figure? These bikes are supposed to have 24 HP to begin with so I'm thinking the 19 was right before you had the rebuild and the bike was having a rough go with the piston slap and all.
Is bikes to have a stock 24 hp at the crank. However chassis Dyno measure from the rear wheel which has power loss associated with the drivetrain. 19 is what most Himalayan show at the rear wheel in a chassis Dyno, stock.
@@MCCJustMotos Got it. Thanks for the explanation. But 5 HP is better than nothing and with so little as is that is a huge increase. I'm sure you can feel the difference. I wonder if it will give you a higher top speed or just make it quicker to get there. It should make it easier to maintain those higher speeds on the freeway as well.
First off, thanks for the detailed video. Loved watching it, very useful. I haven't watched all your videos, but my question to you is: after all the mods you made as you listed, were you still running a stock exhaust system on the Himalayan? If so, that's where your biggest restriction is! Replacing the header alone with a de-cat and bigger Inner Diameter will give you the gains you're looking for.
Aww thanks! My original intent was to keep the stock exhaust, because I liked having a stealthy quieter bike to run. But yeah, I ended up switching exhausts (and a few other things now too)! I’m finishing up a “final” build. I think I’ll have 40 crank HP now. czcams.com/users/shortsHmz4SHjazeI?feature=share
head flow my man watch david vizard and port it a tiny bit of short turn clean up does wonders .i hope i can find a used bike to buy soon.ill bet useing a microsquirt ect same unit i using on a few cars made in USA to to boot a fair price ole cheapo android tablets can tune and are used as a dash gauges if needed fun stuff.on the fly tuning to i do not know why all do not use them can be bought at diyautotune.i am not affliated with them just a fan and helper to all tweakers of cars n bikes
I don’t recommend spending much money at all for upgrades! Keep the motorbike stock! I only upgraded because I needed to rebuild my engine. Big bore kit was about the same cost as a stock rebuild.
Hi there, an exhaust probe why didn't he just take the end can off? I run mine all the time without the end can and she sounds superb. Forgive me but it sounds to me like your guy doesn't know what he's doing ?
At the time, I wanted to keep the stock exhaust (since replaced). I wanted to get a true number in the state I had planned to run it. End can off would have changed the exhaust state (pressure, flow rate, etc) and made a different number than I had planned to run. It’s a moot point now as I’ve changed cans and have upgraded further ;) cheers!
I've not yet looked at the build but have you doubled up on the head gaskets as you may have lowered compression which will be the cause of your low power
Stock 24hp is at the engine 19hp at dyno is normal I think Your result is nearly 30% more power than stock - a fantastic result I think. How does it drive?
Yup, my main disappointment is that just the cam alone or just the big bore kit alone was advertised as providing that power addition. Together I was hoping for more… With the front-tooth sprocket upgrade it pretty much drive like sock, and is not very noticeable and there is a weird hesitation at 4500 rpm. I am doing 3 mods more which I will hope to change a few things..it should be an awesome video.. Here was my first ride review, worth a watch to see why I did the upgrades. czcams.com/video/jWiv4C69Rwg/video.html
Did you just use company numbers for stock. Because company numbers are not to the wheel so in reality your stock HP is to the wheel more than likely only about 18 or 19
Cory, I talk about that in the video many times. Yes, the average Himalayan puts down about 19 H.P at the rear. After my mods and dyno tune, I was putting down 24.84 HP at the rear. Before the Tune (just the mods) I was putting down about 22 HP at the rear. That nets me about a 25% HP gain. I was expecting more. However, I did confirm I was able to top the ton +1 more MPH yesterday!
Sounds to me that you bought the wrong bike in the first place. Why buy a bike and then do everything to try and make it something it was never ment to be?
Great assumptions and great question Tim. I guess what is missing is context in this video. But, this should answer answer your question.. Royal Enfield Himalayan 462CC - Top 10 Questions #wickedfast czcams.com/video/1lFwF8hmhEk/video.html
$250 for a cam $75-100 Freeflow air filter $150 Freeflow exhaust and you get a 25 % h.p. and 25% torque increase with a huge 100 % torque increase right off idle till 3000 rpm( That is a very large increase for the $$ compared to similar mods to other bikes . Add carb conversion for $400 and then it will be completely reliable.
A 30.5% increase in power is pretty good! Asking for a 50% increase is pretty wild.
Agreed..and Honestly I think I just reached my goal with some modest changes! Here is a sneak peek! New mods are in description of that quick video.
czcams.com/users/shortsHmz4SHjazeI?feature=share
This sounds like someone doing everything they can to find something good in this.
It’s not as good as I wanted that’s for sure
For these bikes the carb conversion is the best bet.After a few years if real world abuse the efi will get unreliable as do all these modern bikes.Your cylinder head temp never overheats with a carb tuned properly while itis a big problem with lean burning efi.
I’ve dynos the bike and it included a full custom fuel map, and egt map, and air fuel analyzer..this is fine tuned to be much more precise than a carberator. It has run perfect temperatures, but you do you!
Hey there Andy, shirt just showed up. Thank you much. Hope you are feeling better.
Hey, Glad you got it, and totally deserved! Yes feeling much better!
I know 5hp doesn't sound like much but actually a 25% increase is large when talking engines. It just doesn't start with much.
Agreed, the issue is the cam alone was supposed to net 5 hp and the bb kit about 3 hp… together usually it’s more, so yeah a little disappointed
@@MCCJustMotos seems like big bores on fuel injected bikes isn't as good as a carb. If there was a way you could go old school I imagine you would see the numbers you expected. The engine would take what it needed I think it's outrunning you ECU
@@jessecrawford2711 I’m not sure about carb vs. FI, but I can tell you the engine Dyno confirmed the ecu was fueling the engine optimally the whole time and not under performing. I just bought a new stage II cam and I hope that makes a huge improvement.
Funny thing. Had the first generation of the himalayan, which was carbureted (as this was meant to be a high altitude bike)
Later generation introduced fuel injection to keep up with pollution norms.
Long awaited news about Power increase using Big bore Blocks and piston.
To me, since there is no much significant increase in power, better keep the stock.
I agree for the money!
It’s not so much the power but the power delivery. Of all the mods I’ve done the most notable was the camshaft swap. If you do only one thing I would recommend the camshaft. The intake exhaust does little. The powertronic really smooths out throttle response.
that's a nice looking bike
Thanks PH!!!
Well I'm with you, that is a major let down. How did you come up with the initial 19 HP figure? These bikes are supposed to have 24 HP to begin with so I'm thinking the 19 was right before you had the rebuild and the bike was having a rough go with the piston slap and all.
Is bikes to have a stock 24 hp at the crank. However chassis Dyno measure from the rear wheel which has power loss associated with the drivetrain. 19 is what most Himalayan show at the rear wheel in a chassis Dyno, stock.
@@MCCJustMotos Got it. Thanks for the explanation. But 5 HP is better than nothing and with so little as is that is a huge increase. I'm sure you can feel the difference. I wonder if it will give you a higher top speed or just make it quicker to get there. It should make it easier to maintain those higher speeds on the freeway as well.
@@yobdiver we shall see with part 3! ;)
@@MCCJustMotos Oh you are such a teaser! LOL
First off, thanks for the detailed video. Loved watching it, very useful. I haven't watched all your videos, but my question to you is: after all the mods you made as you listed, were you still running a stock exhaust system on the Himalayan? If so, that's where your biggest restriction is! Replacing the header alone with a de-cat and bigger Inner Diameter will give you the gains you're looking for.
Aww thanks! My original intent was to keep the stock exhaust, because I liked having a stealthy quieter bike to run. But yeah, I ended up switching exhausts (and a few other things now too)! I’m finishing up a “final” build. I think I’ll have 40 crank HP now.
czcams.com/users/shortsHmz4SHjazeI?feature=share
head flow my man watch david vizard and port it a tiny bit of short turn clean up does wonders .i hope i can find a used bike to buy soon.ill bet useing a microsquirt ect same unit i using on a few cars made in USA to to boot a fair price ole cheapo android tablets can tune and are used as a dash gauges if needed fun stuff.on the fly tuning to i do not know why all do not use them can be bought at diyautotune.i am not affliated with them just a fan and helper to all tweakers of cars n bikes
Cool, I’ll check them out!!!
Just like doctors and lawyers you got to go to different people for different opinions results!
Oh for sure..different dyno’s produce different results, but I can tell the hp diff from stock and at least I know the ball park
Before you spend take a look at TEC bike parts (there's a video available)
I don’t recommend spending much money at all for upgrades! Keep the motorbike stock! I only upgraded because I needed to rebuild my engine. Big bore kit was about the same cost as a stock rebuild.
Hi there, an exhaust probe why didn't he just take the end can off? I run mine all the time without the end can and she sounds superb.
Forgive me but it sounds to me like your guy doesn't know what he's doing ?
At the time, I wanted to keep the stock exhaust (since replaced). I wanted to get a true number in the state I had planned to run it. End can off would have changed the exhaust state (pressure, flow rate, etc) and made a different number than I had planned to run. It’s a moot point now as I’ve changed cans and have upgraded further ;) cheers!
I've not yet looked at the build but have you doubled up on the head gaskets as you may have lowered compression which will be the cause of your low power
Thanks for the watch! I’ve only ever had 1 head gasket installed at once.
Stock 24hp is at the engine 19hp at dyno is normal I think
Your result is nearly 30% more power than stock - a fantastic result I think.
How does it drive?
Yup, my main disappointment is that just the cam alone or just the big bore kit alone was advertised as providing that power addition. Together I was hoping for more…
With the front-tooth sprocket upgrade it pretty much drive like sock, and is not very noticeable and there is a weird hesitation at 4500 rpm. I am doing 3 mods more which I will hope to change a few things..it should be an awesome video..
Here was my first ride review, worth a watch to see why I did the upgrades.
czcams.com/video/jWiv4C69Rwg/video.html
wonder if that new fuelx controller would have been easier to use on the dyno instead of powertronics?
I don’t know but it’s definitely possible, but I don’t think we’ll make it a tremendous amount of difference. Thanks!
what if you run a carb ,straight pipe and junk the computer for programable ign?
Then you probably, get about the same H.P.
Did you just use company numbers for stock. Because company numbers are not to the wheel so in reality your stock HP is to the wheel more than likely only about 18 or 19
Cory, I talk about that in the video many times. Yes, the average Himalayan puts down about 19 H.P at the rear. After my mods and dyno tune, I was putting down 24.84 HP at the rear. Before the Tune (just the mods) I was putting down about 22 HP at the rear. That nets me about a 25% HP gain. I was expecting more. However, I did confirm I was able to top the ton +1 more MPH yesterday!
@@MCCJustMotos ok thanks
They are 25 stock at flywheel
Well 24 stock at the flywheel or about 19 at the rear wheel.
I received an undeliverable email message. I will try again.
Congrats again, I’m glad you saw that you were tagged in this video! Try andymotocoffee@gmail.com and let me know.
I got your email and replied
So 29 hp ?
Yup around 29-30 crank HP.
Sounds to me that you bought the wrong bike in the first place. Why buy a bike and then do everything to try and make it something it was never ment to be?
Great assumptions and great question Tim. I guess what is missing is context in this video. But, this should answer answer your question..
Royal Enfield Himalayan 462CC - Top 10 Questions #wickedfast
czcams.com/video/1lFwF8hmhEk/video.html
🤔😂😑
What a waist of time and money.
Thanks for the info.
Yeah, I’m not a fan of the gain for the $$$ at all! Your welcome 100% I guess someone has to be the Guinea pig
$250 for a cam $75-100 Freeflow air filter $150 Freeflow exhaust and you get a 25 % h.p. and 25% torque increase with a huge 100 % torque increase right off idle till 3000 rpm( That is a very large increase for the $$ compared to similar mods to other bikes . Add carb conversion for $400 and then it will be completely reliable.
It's not a powerful motorcycle.
It’s not! But it’s even capable and its stock form!
@@MCCJustMotos Best thing is that they don't require maintenance after every ride like my other bike. *Coffcoff* KTM*coff coff*