110 headlinging restore - making the most of a bad job!
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- čas přidán 7. 09. 2024
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Britannica Restorations Ltd
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Quebec
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What my dad did was sprayed that rock textured paint right on the backer board and it looked good. Didn't use material
Me too on my Disco 1. Surprisingly good result.
Try some fibreglass resin on the molded backing prior to glue... It stiffens up the job and helps with the glue going off... I was told this by a mate after I did mine...
Yes we have done that in the past, but resin is expensive now!
I did this exact job last summer! I was lucky to find some original material. One benefit from living in the Midlands! Great video Mike.
I have tried for years to find the real stuff
The guy had a full roll! I just bought what I needed. I guess it's all gone now! You need to live near Solihull. Actually, I'd stay where you are👍.
My old man used to say that you can't make strawberry jam out of shit. You've done a bloody good job with the materials at hand.
He was quite right!
Awesome - I've got to do this on my classic! Been putting it off for a year since I took the headliner out. at least these a manageable size panels - The classic one's one piece. and this is an LWB - so even bigger.
I have done classics -quite easy to do as the headliner material is different - better to work with
Good job, Regards from Germany
Great job Mike, a great inspiration to us all. Best wishes from Yorkshire Rob.
Well. not too bad for the materials on hand - the headlining panels had been damp and was starting to de-laminate - which is why it absorbed so much glue
Good job Mike.
Thanks Robert!
Mike
Thanks for the tips! I just took my headliner out this week for restoration. Hope I can make it as nice as, or nicer than yours. Kind of a tricky project!
Don't use your fingers on the flat surfaces to place the lining material - glue can be pressed into the foam and you will have marks on the finished surface - use a big fluffy roller for best results and make sure the headliner board is free of any imperfections
The headliners boards we used were the worst of the worst - we had nothing else to use - they had been in a container for 4 years and under cover outside many yard before that -they were a bit damp
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I have done one or two headliners and door panels.. the trick is go a bit overkill with the glue.. and use a heat gun or a hairdryer to speed up in the corners..
Looks good mike, even the sunroof outline looks factory, i don’t think any one will notice any imperfections in that.
I was thinking the same - an expert bodge!
Top tip; if your backer is a bit soft and flexible and wants to sag a bit what I do I mix some all weather PVA 50/50 with water. Lay your headliner board somewhere flat and absolutely saturate it with the solution and let it dry; your backer will be rock solid and stiff and won't bow or sag in the middle; this is what I do on all kinds of perished materials, it really works. Just be sure to use high quality pva like the stuff that you use to seal concrete
My headliner was soft and flexible and perished after 26 years of rotting, now it's like new; make your Landy better!
It also won't soak up your contact adhesive as the PVA seals it!
Looks good compared to what you started with. Making a series headlining and trimming one out from scratch using 4mm ply is a similar pain in the bum. Keep up the good work. Definite improvement over what it was.
I should show you how I did a roof in my 130 one day
@@BritannicaRestorations If there is ever time, you could always do a "nostalgic video" segment on older series stuff???
Yay. Two things. 1. The marine industry became enamoured with foam-backed-vinyl as it could be applied directly to the GRP inside as it covers all kinds of lumps and bumps. But as you are finding, a decade on almost every letter to PBO in the uk was about how to fix the dropped lining. It is usual to use spray on contact adhesive on foam backed vinyl which may explain the hap-hazard patterns you found.
2. In the heads (bog / bathroom to septics) on my boat the previous owner had applied foam backed lining to green plastic tiles (which had been fitted really well but look horrid, great in the 70s when she was built). I stripped away the foam vinyl and was left with glue on the tiles, this can be removed if rubbed with a finger, but I think my skin will give before the heads are finished. I never thought to use a grit pad on the grinder, that will allow me to clean them right up.
3. (bonus). You have inspired me with your plastic spraying of mouldings and if I can find a good hard wearing white I reckon that will look good on the tiles, I was going to use flotech, but the cost is eye-watering and I've never been convinced it will work all that well.
So, Thanks Mike, in a weird way, your Land Rover video from Quebec has inspired me to tackle a problem on my boat in North Wales.
This 110 is almost done now as far as I am concerned
The plastic paint is expensive but it is good -really bad fumes on application though!
I managed to get a LaSalle replacement headliner cheap. I paid a local Indy to install when he hit a slow week, but he let me know it was not a fun job
took me and a mate all day to do a 110 CSW LaSalle - the alpine windows were a pain to fit!
Right propper jorrb squadron leader..and big jim ..😁pip pips and carryon
I think that priming with bodyprimer the board an then (when prime get dry), glue... i think that the board weren't too absorbent.
Mike, if you need Genuine Ripple Grey headliner material, I have it available. Has a spun poly backing, so no foam rot.
Interesting send me details britrest@britrest.com
Hi mike Alec (from gods county ) asked lads at work best way to do head linings they do a fair few a year a few hundred for camper vans and motor homes,
They said if your using old head boards don’t seal with glue spray pva sealer or spray varnish it’s cheaper way to go and you can do a couple of coats cheeped than using all your glue wait to dry then give them a light rub down with light paper also if your not using a vac system get a small steam gun to stretch your material and use 4 way stretch material hope this helps
Would be really great if you could post up the size of each material panel that was required, also did you need to thin the glue for spraying? I have used the rattle can ones in the past for seats but the only other contact glue I have used is the evostick type more like treacle. I'm a long way from doing this, when I took mine out the backing boards were a little damp so i will be inspecting the roof with care to find out if it was just condensation of a leak.
Will do next weekend
@@BritannicaRestorations since i found you via the re vinyling the dash you have covered pretty much everything I need to do. The only thing that's stopping me is the funds. I have to do a bit then save up!
ASAP donation on its way!
what was the glue you were using ,
headlining in landrovers are garbage its like those old pink wafer biscuits you used to get.
Hi Mike,
A few videos back, you "experimented" with fibre glass. I wonder if you could make the head lining using fibre glass? Simon
Problem is you need a perfect liner to make a mould.These are expensive - I did see a company in the UK making them at a reasonable price
www.oemdevelopments.co.uk/store/c59/Head_Linings.html
Didn't say what they were made of
I have fitted LaSalle in the past and was not impressed
I wonder if you could have used a vacuum bag to pull the fabric into place?
Yes you could and we discussed this, however we were a bit pressed for time and didn't have enough plastic to make a big bag
Great video, I am waiting on some Defender headliner from Martrim, they have run out probably because of your video. Would be good to see the vacuum method. Can you use a poly bag from a mattress?
Nice job Doc, but I thought you were going to show us you vacuum method?
Laters
Johnny the Broadstairs hoveller
I was but was pushed for time and materials - so we decided to do it the old fashioned way and will do some experiments later - it is all to do with the glue soaking into the foam
If you primed the head board first it might help.
That is why we gave it a first coat of glue and let it dry
@@BritannicaRestorations But would thinned down PVA not be cheaper and seal better. Just a suggestion.
Possibly but I didn't have any
Try 50/50 pva wood glue and water give it two coats you will notice the board will become heavy but will dry out, when dry it will stiffen up the board and also it will stop any damp then spray your glue to the shiny surface of the board
You've probably said, but what brand / type of contact adhesive are you using here?
Sounded like weldwood contact adhesive. It's at 6:30 on the video.
Yep, you did. 6:30
Thanks, Harvey!
@@harveysmith100