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FOC And Bare Shaft Tuning / This Explains It All! Curing Nock High On Traditional Arrows
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- čas přidán 23. 07. 2023
- Traditional Arrow “Nock High” issues are not just explained in this video but demonstrated with real world Bare Shaft Tuning and exactly how to get your arrows to fly perfectly from a longbow or recurve so you can expect great broadhead flight!
You know its gonna be a good day when a new video from Jeff is on 😊
😁👍🏻
Bought my first Recurve today. The amount of knowledge on your channel is astounding. I hope to put it to good use soon.
i love your videos...even for just relaxing and enjoying a coffee at 7am....its nice to be able to feel like im in the back yard talking to a friend about archery and just relax and be peaceful and also learn a couple things. dont change a thing....these are great!
This is perfect and amazing, I feel like you made the video due to all my questions in the comments on other videos (obviously its a normal question that you probably get all the time). Absolutely love watching you explain stuff. Thanks for the videos!
Really enjoy these technical type videos. Thanks!!!
Hi Jeff, I gotta tell ya. I love listening to you. I have been on your site for about 4 months now. Listening to you is like going to archery school. I am in the same range of draw weight and poundage of bow you shoot. I am only a target archer and I want my arrows to shoot like a laser. Listening to you about bare shaft tuning has done great for me. There is real physics involved in tuning arrows. Keep up what your doing, its a great help for all archers out there.
Love ya man
Thanks brother I really appreciate that!
Outstanding course Jeffrey 👏 👌 👍 🙌 🎯
You have a gift for explaining things! Great job 👍🏻
Thanks so much!
That’s it! Many thanks Jeff! After watching „thousands“ of bare shaft tuning videos on UT now YOU could perfectly explain what it is all about and where to start the setup and tuning process. Many many thanks! 🤩
ive learned so much about archery from your channel and i havent even received my bow yet haha. i feel like im going to be pretty well prepared to tune it and have a good base level of knowledge by time im actually out there in the field, thanks to your videos. i appreciate the work you do to make these and sharing the experience and info with us. cheers bud. God bless
I’m excited for this one. I have been dealing with tail high for weeks
Your videos are very helpful. I use to shoot recurve years ago but then switched to compound for about 9 yrs. Now I have the recurve itch again, but now realize some of my mistakes from your videos 👍😎
Awesome! Don’t feel bad i did the same thing for a while just finally got determined I was gonna master shooting instinctive with no sights after shooting competition with a compound and that’s when the fun began for me !😁
Man so glad I came across your channel learning all kinds of stuff that's helping me on my transition to traditional
Alright! That’s awesome my friend and I really appreciate it!
@instinctiveaddictionarcher8998 I'm not good enough to bare shaft yet but traditional is so much fun I hope to carry one in the woods next season
I dont mind bareshaft nock low as feathers will give some lift when shot on the back end. I sometimes put electrical tape on the shaft to mimic the weight of the feathers to bare shaft tune.. I also like a little weak arrow as if I under draw up in the tree stand which alot of us bowhunters do in an elevated stand.. Tricks of the trade for arrow building and tuning !!!! Great video, thank you !!!
Yes it’s better for it to be a touch weak than stiff for that exact reason! Most of the time we don’t draw as far bending over in a stand in a hunting situation or get excited and short draw a little 😁👍🏻
You’re a huge help. Thanks for the videos.
Amazing info in one video. I'm learning to shoot, but all this comes in handy for later on, i try to be one step on myself, that way I'm not so daunted at the information which will come.
Absolutely thank you so much!
Great video man, Explained Well!!!! Thanks 👍
You're the archery wizard. I still can't wrap my head around all of this yet, but I'm hoping I can understand it soon.
🤣 hang with me brother!👍🏻
I struggle, so much
I have a left-handed three-piece longbow I have a bunch of traditional bows, but it shoots the best come problem is always have the Nock High problem, when I bare shaft tuning, just found out today you cannot can't your bow I'm getting there slowly great video thank you
Absolutely let me know how it goes I’ll help anyway possible brother!
Jeff, would have been interesting to add the feather weight with tape rather than going to 175 grain tip to see if that would have handle the nock high rather than point weight. One other thing that may hinder people with nock high. I was having issues with nock high not responding to point weight or anything for that matter. I finally realized that I was comming right to my nock with my tab when I hooked. When I drew of course my string angle increased and the edge of the tab was pinning the arrow nock to the upper nock point. So any spacing I had between the nock points for string angle was gone. Hence on release my upper nock point pushed down on the tail of the arrow and created nock high. Moved the top of my tab to the bottom of the lower nock point and life was good again. It was a DA moment for me as I should have realized it a lot sooner than I did. Lots of flustration before the light went on.
Great information thanks for sharing
Thank you sir!
Love it .. thank you 😊
Got it. so I deleted my earlier question, Thanks a lot for how to adjust nock high and nock low.
Thanks so much for watching!
Beautiful.
When bare shaft tuning it seems counter productive to add weight to the rear of the arrow. It actually changes your FOC percentage. It looks like cutting the arrows or going up a spine would be better. According to the Ashby study he recommended no wrap, no lighted knocks and as small a feather you can get by with shooing your broadheads. Anothe great video as always.
You could also foot the shaft with a 2216 or 2117 xx75 that allows you to even get heavier foc. 2117 is only 12grains per inch and they protect the front of the arrow.
Thank you.
Love the videos, learning a lot. How do I buy a bow from you, or your company?
Once the point out weighs the force the drag of the shaft is providing, a nock high reading occurs.
Jeff - I love your videos; I've learned a bunch. Thank you.
But, a very basic question - why is it important to get a tuned arrow? If the point (target point, field point, judo point, broadhead) hits where I aim it, why do I care what the tail of the arrow does? Is an untuned arrow less accurate, meaning I have less control over where the arrow hits, or does it lose appreciable speed in flight, causing reduced accuracy or less penetration in a deer? Is tuning an arrow an issue of aesthetics, making us feel better, or does tuning improve arrow impact characteristics? I'm really interested in the degree of improvement by tuning arrows. I wonder ...
Thank you.
Hi Jeff I bought my son a sage 62-40 or 62-at 40 I know it's a 40 lb bow what does the 62 mean. I don't a draw length to get 40lb ,or what his draw length is. I'm going to start shooting it. Where should I start for arrow weight and length. Watching your videos has got me excited about shooting again.
I need to just send you my bow and have you dial it all in for me!!!
Another good ‘un
Why is it that with all my bows, be recurve or long the arrow charts tend to be wrong. The bows range from 46 to 52#'s and since I tend to always increase insert weight from 50 to 100 grains with points from 150 to 200 it always seems that a 500 seems to bare shaft best. I typically draw about 28.5 but do have a tendency to under draw cause I'm a snap shooter. 400 per the charts always bare shaft stiff based on shaft lengt ( 29.5-30") and need excessive point weight to correct and that promotes nock high. I know form is key but I shoot enough times to average out what's happening. This video certainly helps but just curious about your thoughts. As always, keep these videos coming. You continue to provide valuable info and inspiration.
Yes sir I’ve never seen an arrow chart that’s right.
Adding the wrap and luminock makes the foc nearly the same as the 175 head. What about adding weight to compensate for feathers/vanes
Great video! What brand target are you shooing into? Thanks.
Bone-A-Fide Targets
Thanks Jeff!! I was also wondering (I'm new to archery) if bare shaft tuning was done with the Bow quiver on or off! I've been tuning with it on. It's seems you tune with it on. Do you do that every time you bare shaft tune?
I haven’t found any difference 👍🏻
Just one question: weight wise we also need to consider the weight of the missing fletches, meaning the c.o.g. on the bare shaft is the same like on the final arrow? Right?
At the 17 minute mark couldn’t you adjust brace height to make that minimal adjustment?
Brother please do some tuning with 31" arrows can't find a good foc hunting weight bow is 40lbs @28 DL is 30.5" God bless and thank you
It’s the same process
If the arrows are 500s start with 250gr up front. You can’t shorten your arrows cause it’s only 1/2” longer than DL. Can only add or remove point weight and additional 15-20gr at the back if running a wrap & luminock.
Hi, Jeff question for you? I was asking you before about my heavy arrow setup I'm running 708gr 31%EFOC 500 27.5 traditional only arrow 3- 5in fathers and rap 200gr SS inserts 250gr 3to1 single left bevel. Long bow RD slick stick pulling 46lb @ 24.5/25in on a good day. You told me you like 500gr 300gr broadhead. My question is dosen't a 200gr long insert stiffin the shaft to a different spine? I'm getting good bare shaft maybe a little high. Thanks again
Hi Jeff I have been watching your videos lately since I have recently purchased a recurve I have yet to purchase arrow would a 500 spine with 300 grain work with a 45# bow and draw at 27”
Absolutely!
You’ll want to cut them 28-28.5”
Thank you for your videos they have helped me become more confident in pick up traditional equipment again
Before I adjusted my nock I would add electrical tape to make up for the weight of the Fletching
I don't know how you're getting a consistent result when you snapshot I know you're good but you really need to lock in to come to a perfect same Anchor Point every time I also snapshot when I'm hunting for 3D shooting but not when I'm testing
There's another piece to this equation... Nock tuning really helps get every arrow tuned perfect.
Jeff if you decide to cut the length of your shaft during bare shaft tuning, which end do you cut? The nock end or point end! Thanks, Ron
Great question! I usually cut the point end because I use gorilla hot melt but if I’ve got it fairly close to stiff enough I’ll cut from the nock end so I don’t have to remove the insert especially if it’s an ethics system or something with a collar, just don’t usually cut more than a half inch or so off the nock end so my wraps and feathers still look good and not covering the label lol. 😁
What is you black cube target? Looks like 48” square?
It’s a Bone-A-Fide target 👍🏻
What is the brand and where did you get the target you are using?
I bought it from Bone -A-Fide Targets at the Tennessee Classic Traditional Archery Shoot a few years back, they’re absolutely amazing!
Jeff, I have several questions regarding arrow setup. Is there a way I can DM?
Yes sir! Message me on Facebook messenger, guys do every day 👍🏻
What nock points are you using that you can adjust them on the fly?
Tied nocks, they’re much better and actually come on the TTT strings, you can also tie them yourself with serving material easily.
Jeff,
How are you moving your nocks, what kind are you using
TTT Strings have tied nocks👍🏻
@@instinctiveaddictionarcher8998 thank you
Very helpful tuning information. Who makes that target you were shooting into? Thanks for sharing.
What if your bare shaft is nock low but when you shoot it with feathers it’s nock high??? Slightly nock high. 600 Easton axis 28” 200 gr on front.
Hmm, I’d definitely raise the string nock a little bit and try to get a fairly level bare shaft first, the feathers usually only stabilize it during flight also make sure to bare shaft test it out to at least 20 yards to see what it’s doing for sure.
What type nock is that on your string? is it just the brass nocks? i see there are 2 correct? i have just a bit of serving on the top of my arrow. Does this seem sufficient or would you recommend something above and below the arrow nock?
Yes sir they are tied nocks made of serving material and I do highly recommend having two because it keeps the arrow nock from traveling downwards during release just like a D loop on a compound 👍🏻
@@instinctiveaddictionarcher8998 thank you sir - awesome videos thanks a lot for all the great info.
Tail left, drop foc weight?
Yes or cut the arrow a little 👍🏻
So what would a 600 spine do
@@markmullins7801 a 600 will act the same as the others if the point weight passes what it will handle and a lot depends on the length itself even with a good right and left tune👍🏻
What kind of target are you using?
Coolest I’ve ever seen! It’s a Bone-A-Fide target and they have photo realistic replaceable fronts for them that are super cool!
@instinctiveaddictionarcher8998 seems like a good target. Do they hold up good?
You made what I think it are tconfusing remarks. When is the general rule is 2 and a 1/2 pounds per inch? Not one and the other is you said to the front of the bow, that's the back of the bow, the part that's away from you.