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Easy Troubleshooting DC Problems With A Multimeter - Model Railroading For Beginners - Ep 19
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- čas přidán 18. 08. 2024
- In This Video We Discuss Easy Troubleshooting With Your Multimeter On Your Model Railroad. Here are basic instructions on hoe to test your system from the power supply to the track.
I show the beginners easy steps to take when testing out your wiring when something goes wrong. This is just the first of many more videos where we will troubleshoot problems on your model railroad.
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Just the ticket! Thanks so much man. Just what I needed to see. That 9v battery trick to check engines is handy to know.
Your welcome. I wish I thought of the battery years ago.
My Bachmann Henry wasn't going more than half a rotation of the wheels even though it was getting power. I used the 9V trick and discovered it was a problem with the coupling rods, and how they weren't straight! fixed them, tightened them up and now I have an actual railroad. Thanks so much!
Glad it was helpful
Thanks so much for this vid..It helped so much! but need more info on the multimeter settings for each test. My meter has a bunch of different things listed. I get the general idea tho
Great 9 volt battery tip that would be useful knowing me I would bring a portable layout to a train show just to test equipment. Multimeters are great I've had one for a long time now i don't know how I lived without one. It brings the guessing out of troubleshooting. Thanks for sharing.
Your welcome Zane. Multimeters definitely make thing much easier
Tom, many thanks for your response. Enjoy watching your videos. Graeme Albany WA
My pleasure
I want to say this was a great video. I am rebuilding a layout thats both dc/dcc but the basics are the same, I will share with some of the newbies that are quite a few miles from me. I try to xplane things but now they can see what I am saying thx
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks mr.toms for your channel
You are very welcome
3:35 - What you're holding is the throttle, and it's probably just a rheostat switch to control how much electricity is making it to the rails. The "wall wart" is the actual transformer. That consists of a transformer coil to step the voltage down from 115 VAC to 12 VAC, a rectifying bridge to change it from VAC to VDC, and (hopefully) some capacitors to smooth out the current.
I remember the OLD SCHOOL throttles that were all-in-one units with the coils, rectifier bridge, capacitors, rheostat for controlling power to the rails, and even an unswitched power tabs to run accessories like lights and motorized switches. But the name "transformer" follows the coils and rectifying bridges, not the rheostat.
What you're describing is 30 year old technology.
Rheostats, not rheostat switches have long been replaced with potentiometers.
Wall warts now have voltage regulating circuitry instead of coils.
Try catching up on your reading or better yet, take apart some components to actually see what they consist of!
so as I understand a DPDT switch will solve that, ... and the AR1 which is now unpluged should just pick that up when I get to my DCC implementation. THank You Very Much for your time .....
I do certainly enjoy the channel.
Since all your doing is turning around on one end from one track to another, just reverse the polarity of the second track to match the first track.
thank you , thank you . great tips in the video . the 9 volt trick is awesome . I've got to get a multi - Meter takes the guessing out of finding electrical issues .
Glad it helped
Nice meter. Great video on how to do some troubleshooting of the electrical system.
Thanks 👍
Lovely video Tom. I went to model club last night and my loco didn't work. I've got to get a multimeter and fix it. This video is really helpful. Many thanks, Dan
Glad you liked it Dan.
@@TomsTrainsandThings It was a really useful video, Tom. You kept it simple. This is the beauty that didn't run czcams.com/video/ID8FugcXFaU/video.html
Hope you get it running again!
@@TomsTrainsandThings Thanks Tom
@@TomsTrainsandThings I will get it running properly. I got some kaptan tape and I will follow your instructions about the mulitmeter. I made a short instructional video using what I learnt from your techniques and presentation. 37 seconds to explain resizing an image on a printer to resize decals. I showed the screen, like you do and kept it simple, like you do. Thank you Tom. Best wishes, Dan czcams.com/video/QqSMqcUpK2s/video.html
thank you for this. i use bachman transformer and tracks. i intially thought the issue was the wire connecting power to the track since it was worn near the ends from pulling but still hass issues. my trains wouldnt run unless i put the power up to 70-90 and would have some sudden stops while running.
Glad it was helpful
Yes Sir.... you are absolutely correct.... I am currently making sure all track runs smooth.
I have yet to connect my Digitrax Zephyer, and running a DC power supply .
At the 12 o'clock postion it is producing 11.5 volts / at the 3 o'clock position it reads 15.2. Both the main lines and the reverse loop are reading same voltages. (within 1/2 a volt)
The light on the AR1 is green or red solid... This is N scale and currently using DC Locos for track testing prior to implementing DCC.
The AR-1 is exclusively DCC. It does not work with DC track power or with DC locomotives.
Great video. Tom you helped me out to troubleshooting
Glad to help
Thank you for the useful information
Glad it was helpful!
~Thank you sooooo-much...love my n-scale & HO trains very much. Plz tell us anything to help us ...😊
Most welcome 😊
Thank you Tom!! I never knew with 9V volt battery does that. I learn everyday with this hobby
This is exactly what I needed! I have an old DC set that isn't working. I'll get a multi-meter and a 9v and check it out!
Glad I was able to help.
@@TomsTrainsandThings Track seems to be getting power but locomotive doesn't work with the 9V. Going to be checking that out next!
Great page
Thank you Steven.
@@TomsTrainsandThings Your video helped me use my voltmeter to diagnose a voltage drop. The drop was due to my poor bus wiring (O-gauge). I put in two repacement bus wires with good feeder connections into the layout yesterday. WALA! Everything now runs great on an old 120 Watt power supply. I hardly need the ZW-C I have on order except the old power supply generates a lot of heat. I am even emulating you. czcams.com/channels/-gR_Olunxl6Xu2Evv1f7Jg.html My next challenge will be fixing a 69 year old GG-1 Pennsylvania 2330
Glad I was able to help Steven.
I have the same one pictured in your video and I tore that thing apart looking for something burnt because it smelled like something was burnt I didn’t find anything so I just threw it out I wish I would’ve watched this video first to see
Thank you for the video, and the time. I learned a lot !!!
Glad I can help
@Casen Anson glad I could help :D
Thank you for the great video. Setting up our Christmas tree layout and the Railpower 1300 doesn’t seem to be working. I will find my old meter and test it out.
Good luck, hope you get it working. If not send me an email
@TomsTrainsandThings does the 9v battery work for post war engines..?
Lionel 2344 f3 (powered unit)
Lionel 2338 Milwaukee Road GP7
Lionel 681 Steam locomotive
Thank you sir, for your time, as well as, your knowledge.
9 volt battery only works on DC motors
Good one Tom. I don't have anything witty to say, I think my amps are low. -Mark
Thanks Mark. Sounds like you let your resistance down.
Sound like you need some charged capacitors.
Got a buddy who having issues with his train not sure if its DC or DCC i will find out in next few days, says the switches all work but none of the trains will run, I figured he has bad connection on the track somewhere. I am going to go check it out for him
Let me know when you find out.
Hello Tom Great video for the dc trains thanks for posting! I have a dcc ready train that I brought second hand and it won't run on my dc track. Is this normal ? Do you have a fault finding video for a dcc locomotive at all? Many thanks
DCC ready means that there is most likely a plug installed where a decoder can be placed. Does it have a decoder in it? Usually if someone adds a decoder they also provide the documentation with it. Not normal that it doesn't run. Did you try the 9v battery test? Just touch it momentarily since you don't know if there is a decoder installed. Let me know if you need more assistance.
I have several playlists on DCC you might want to watch.
Great video!!
Glad you enjoyed it
Did the 9 volt battery trick just now and it worked. It must be the cord to my track thats not working. Need to get a voltmeter and see
Great news. Glad you narrowed down the problem.
Thanks so much! I bought a bunch of tyco trains to sell but I don't want to scam people and send broken train. I'm testing them now so I'm guild free when they sell.
Glad I could help
Neat idea for 100th episode , show what you do to produce a web show
Thanks for the suggestion. I think I already did one like that, but it's about time to do another one since I've changed a lot of things in the past year.
btw I don't know if my layout is dcc or dc but the engine I got that is new ran fine at the store and is for dcc or dc thanks.
What does it say on the box or the instructions?
Tom. Simple ho setup for the kids. Train runs and moves when on the power supply but as soon as it leaves it, it stops. Cant make it around any of the track. Doesnt matter the engine. Connection issues with the track?
Clean everything
I just got a old set from Habitat for HUmanity and I have tested the engine and the power and they both work but the track part that attaches the power is pretty rusty and corroded and the engine doesn't move when I put it on the track. Should I just get a new track and connector or would I be able to clean the track so it can be used.
If it's rusted I would just get new track. Good find. I always find model railroad stuff at thrift stores
I hope we can get my train running. I have a beautiful Irish train from Bachman and I have two more engine's on the way..
Is there something wrong with it?
Morning Tom, just need help in fault finding. I own a Hornby 08513 Engine, the motor is running but the train does not move. Could this be caused that the base plate is on to tight to allow wheel to move. With many thanks, Graeme Palmer, Albany Western Australia, Australia.
Is the motor running or just humming? If humming, something may be binding. If running freely, maybe broken or misaligned gears
Bought used MRC Twin Pack for N gauge. Has 12 V to track. Trains barely move. Help.
Locos usually start running anywhere from 6 to 8 vdc. Max voltage should be around 18vdc.
Are you checking on the track or on the terminals on the power pack?
I have basically the same steam locomotive and coal car as in this video. The train runs if I lift the coal car OFF the track but doesn’t run when it’s on the track with the engine. Any idea why that is and how to fix it? The coal car is permanently connected so I’m not sure what to do. Power is good every where as far as I can tell. Thanks for any ideas you have. Great video to help my 6 yr old son and I get started.
The tender also has pickups on the trucks for power. You may be shorting out something. Make sure you didn't inadvertently twist the trucks so they are making contact on the wrong rails.
Track is getting appropriate VDC but engines do not run when placed on track. They do pass the 9v battery test. Thoughts?
What do you consider appropriate? A loco will not start until it reaches about 4 or 5 volts, then increase in speed as the voltage increases to about 18 VDC.
@@TomsTrainsandThings With the multimeter hooked up it will go from near zero to around 14 as I turn the knob.
Clean the track with a bright boy and wheels and wipers going to the wheels with isopropyl alcohol.
Hi Tom, just purchased a OZITO Digital Multimeter from our local Bunnings Store (same as Walmart) the model was 300v 10a is this suitable for testing my layout here in Albany Western Australia. Regards, Graeme
Yes, any multimeter will work. Not familiar with that one but all have basicly the same functions, some have more bells & whistles.
DCC engine runs on DC layout until it reaches a certin point (switch) where it stops. It is a HO gauge laayout from Atlas. I'm thinking of converting to a DCC layout but, until I figure out this problem, DCC is on hold. Can you help?
A lot of turnouts have a plastic frog and rely on multiple wheel sets on the locomotive to maintain power to the motor to continue moving. Also, some are insulated past the frog requiring additional feeders past the turnout. Will it move once the locomotive clears the frog? Does it only stop when the locomotive is on the siding?
Great video. I have an N Scale Bachmann EZ track Stallion train set. The train has no power. I did all your checks, but still no power. The led light came on very briefly then went out. Help
Check the wires to the motor
i have a train set that i have had for about 10 years. i havent had any problems with the lighing till now i do have 159 lights on this and now when i turn them on the power sorce is getting hot and turning itself of can you tell me y?
Try a different power source, check for shorts. It could be a lot of different things!
Hello I have a blunami decoder 4408 for my g scale dash 9 engine I M not getting a link to the app and I am not sure if I am getting power to the decoder I thought this was plug and play
You might want to contact Soundtraxx on this issue for troubleshooting help. I'm not familiar with any G scale locos
I was hoping you can help me out. I just got a “New” Santa Fe 4073 Steam locomotive. It’s 40+yrs old.. however; it had never been opened. I have new brass tracks and a power unit that i tested and it’s fully functional. The issue is that the train itself may gives no sign of power when I use a battery and barely moves a 1/4inch when I test it on brand new tracks and a strong power source. I’m new to this and not sure what to do.
clean everything with alcohol or electrical contact cleaner. since it's been in a box for so long, the gears may be locked up with hard greese.
Hi Tom, I was in a thrift shop today and picked up an Athearn train for $2.61. Based on what I've seen online it's the "Athearn HO scale Pennsylvania PRR EMD F7A Diesel Engine #9643". Your 9 volt test worked great but should the lights come on as well with this test? Thanks, and thanks for the informative video!
The light should come on but it may be dim.
How do I run a DCC engine without the tracks? I want to apply bullfrog snot to the drive wheels but I have to run the engine at yard speed & I only have the transformer & track as a power supply.
What DCC system do you have with a transformer?
DC you use a 9 volt battery on the wheels
DCC you use the leads from the command station on the wheels
@@TomsTrainsandThings Digitrax Zephyr. So I just have to hold the leads to the wheels, one on each truck on the tender?
Hi Tom, why does my lock keep coming off on the turnouts? I'm very new to this and I'm having a lot of trouble trying to get it to stay on track before I start more on the layout.
Send me an email with a bit more details like what you mean by lock and stay on track.
@@TomsTrainsandThings Sorry, Tom, my loco keeps coming off my turnouts. I can't seem to get it to run without it derailing off the turnouts.
@@user-yt5rp3oh7b check the gauge at the turnout with an NMRA Track Gauge. It gould be too narrow, too loose or the wheels on the loco are not set properly
@@TomsTrainsandThings thanks Tom, I'll try that and see if it works.
Hi Tom my problem is my mulitmeter shows 20-24 volts to the track and any place on the track is still 12-14 v but the trains will hardly move. Put the same trains on to another track and they fly. If the train dos move the voltage drops almost to zero but when comes to stop the reading go's. I have gone around checking each join for resistance the meter gives me reading 001 to 002 hope you can help
Check your wiring to the track.
Put a 9 volt battery across the wheels of the loco to see if it runs in both directions.
If you'rw loosing that much voltage between the power pack & track, double & triple check your connections
@@TomsTrainsandThings Thank you for the quick reply, I now find my controller would loss power when adding the train to the track different controller no problem --thank you again
Hi there, has anyone got an idea as to why my Jouef "false locomotive" makes a strange noise as soon as I place it on the track? It also has front and back lights on at the same time. I would appreciate any comments that helps me resolving this issue.
When yo say "false locomotive" are yoiu refering to a dummy loco with no motor. Strang that it would hum if it is a dummy. Can you give more info at my email, with photos.
hey i need help so the other day i went to my hobby shop got a brand new atlas engine not used brand new k so i put it on my track and it don't run I try some of my others but the just inch along barely move but this one that i have runs like nothing doing it goes fast slow and i have the same controller in this video you use please help me I am just sooo frustrated
Mack sure your track is clean. Clean it with a bright boy, or any other recommended cleaner.
My 08 shunter is not working R152 moter is working help
Cleaned comutatior pick ups buffer light goes out when i put it on track a shorting probleum ?????
Follow the instructions in the video
What If the power pack has overload trip, how can that be reset
Reset the overload by pushing in the button when it cools down. If it does not reset, you need to disconnect whatever you have hooked up to it and try again.
I have a 4 wide track, point to point, was running fine, until I introduced an Digitrax AR1 and a loop on one end. So Track 1 and 4 are both common connections.(meaning the front rail on both tracks are + and the back tracks are both - ...... The reverse loop is insulated at both ends. The trains run into the reverse loop fine and without hesitation. Upon comng out they balk and then stutter back and forth, then send the train back into the reverse loop. Any Ideas??
I've seen that happen but that was because the locomotive was DC going into the DCC reversing circuit. What scale are you running? What command station do you have and what's the voltage of the power supply feeding the command station?
MTH controller keeps tripping any ideas?
Good indication you have a short, or if it's only when your running your train, it's overloaded
I have to bring a 9 volt to my next train show, thanks big time
if i guess the train set issue, it most probably the engine, bad contacts or locked motor (I got some cheap as is at train shows) might be able to fix like I have to a few of them
+billfusionenterprise Your welcome
+billfusionenterprise I guess I'll find out after my viewers watch the video. There were three with basically the same issue
well the 9 volt is the real good tip, wish i had one last weekend, would have not gotten 2 locos from this one guy
Turned out mine was a poor connection to the track on one side. Train runs fine. Thanks friend!
I have the motor totally visible. I do not see any evidence of over heating. My plan is to remove the brushes and reclean the commutator. Maybe check each coil for shorts.
My n scale steam engine ran fine the other day. Now headlight comes on but no movement. It was expensive engine. I tried 9 volt but wheels don’t move.
What power pack did you use to run it initially?
@@TomsTrainsandThings I flipped over the engine and noticed the screws that hold the bottom plate on we’re really loose. I pulled the plate off. And see the nut for one set of wheels was off. I put it back together and put the plate back on. It now goes in reverse but not forward. This is crazy. I’m not experienced in train repair. Any ideas?
I have a DC layout. Say if I have two trains and want to create a realistic freight train scene with two trains coupled together to pull freight. I have a standard DC layout. Can I just lay them BOTH on the track, then just move the transformer forward and both trains will move on my DC layout?
To sum it up, Will two trains run coupled together on one DC track and transformer?
Thay will run together, but they may run at different speeds.
also my set is n scale
How to tighten rail joiners
Pin punch and jewelers hammer, tap lightly on each end
Tyco 3960 general locomotive. The ohm reading at the brushes is 0.07 at best. What can I expect from this? The vintage is 1970.
Disassemble the motor and see if you can spot any evidence of heat such as discoloration or brittle insulation.
I have a motor that does not run. Cleaned brushes, commutator and have 50 ohms resistance across leads. Any suggestions? Could the armature be touching the magnet cause this problem?
Tom, resistance across the leads vary based on the size of the motor and other factors. What is the motor used for and how large or small is it?
After cleaning the brushes and commutator and reassemble and make sure brushes are seated, the motor works fine. I had to ensure the brushes were installed properly.
@@tommhutchison Good to know, thanks for the update. A little cleaning goes a long way.
I have a somewhat strange situation. I got a train off of Facebook. It was in a box for 20+ years. It uses an old tyco power supply. I set it up on the island of my kitchen to make sure it works and it worked well. Now I’ve move it to under my tree and I’m only getting 1-2 volts on the track for some reason. The multimeter says I’m getting 18v from the power supply at full power, except when wires are hooked up to it. That’s when it only shows 1v. I would like to say it’s the wire, but it’s the exact wire I used in the kitchen island an hour previously. So I’m stumped. Any thoughts? The track is longer now, does that matter? How important is the wire gauge? I tried using a 16 gauge wire and it heated up the power supply quite a bit.
Check your wires and the connection. Make sure everything is clean oincluding your track, wheels and contacts.
@@TomsTrainsandThings so it turns out that my layout has what are called reverse loops, which I have recently learned, complicates things. My layout is a figure 8 with with a straight track on both sides of the 8 to make it an oval. So it’s an 8 inside an oval. I saw the video on setting up blocks, but I’m still not sure how to do that on my layout. Also, I only have one power pack. Tech 2
This video may help with your reversing circuit: czcams.com/video/jG8TpmnzCv0/video.html
I have a problem with my atlas snap turnouts, if I have my controller wired up to a atlas relay and using ac current from a life like transformer, and my snap switch will not work and the relay will try to move. I hooked 2 life likes in parallel , voltage is the same and sometimes the relay and the turnout works, I believe it's a wattage problem and most of the transformers on Ebay don't have a wattage info, I have a problem getting info from model train stores, all they seem to know is price tag info. I'm retired and don't have a bunch of money.
Try getting an MRC transformer. If your using LIfe Like, as the ones found in the old train sets, it probably isn't supplying enough power to drive the turnout coils.
@@TomsTrainsandThings Thank you, I figured that, I believe I found a cheaper way to go, I ordered a 16 v ac voltage 30 VA doorbell transformer to run my AC volt accessories, I will be using one lifelike transformer for all DC volt accessories. I'm a retired heavy equipment mechanic and I worked on the EMD locomotives and rail cars, so I only go by voltage and amperage and amperage draw, and I knew how many amps and voltage it took to turn over an EMD V16 diesel, but on these small HO railroads it takes a little more thought, Thank you for taking time to answer my question.
The reason I don't buy a lot of items on line for my HO layout, is that some of the shipping cost is more or very high for what I need. The closest hobby shop that sells HO products is in Cheyenne Wyoming , which is 165 miles away, Casper Wyoming the second largest city in Wyoming has no hobby shop except for Hobby Lobby and they don't have much for HO trains. So I will let you know if this doorbell transformer works on my layout. I have to manufacture a lot my HO items.
The doorbell transformer works great, throws the Atlas turnout and the relay . Multimeter reads 17.4 volts ac on this doorbell transformer.
Good to hear. Glad you got it working
My engine works with the 9 volt put on it!! But I still get it to move on my track!!!
If you have issues with your trains, send me an email with the details.
How do you test DCC?
Shipmate you can test the presence of a signal on DCC with a meter but the voltage is constant. There is a device made especially for DCC for testing the strength of the signal.
Set your miltimeter on ac.
Notice a MRC gold power pack , beware of the dual power model, it is not for a 2 train layout as it has only one transformer inside, also i hear troller can be bad parts
+billfusionenterprise Thanks, the one in the video was purchased at a thrift store. Only using it for demonstrations
I plan to use mine to power up accessories and such
wish i could find that at any of my thirft stores
There's a lot of retired people here, so I'm always finding some good stuff.
But how do I find out for a dcc locomotive.
Use the AC scale on the meter.
My N scale locomotive stop running it ran around my layout fine not running now I don't know what to do
Check your connections
@@TomsTrainsandThings what connection
@@robertmoller3245 All of them. Power pack to track, track to train...
DANGER - 50000 ohms !
Can you help me?
You need to be more specific than that!
@@TomsTrainsandThings I have an ho Bachman southern pacific 4454. The motor has power but the wheels are acting like they’re stuck. When it arrived the wheels were just dangling so I reattached them.
@@TomsTrainsandThings thank you a lot for responding
@@TomsTrainsandThings so after looking closer when the wheels start to move one pair tries going the opposite direction.
@@tynelson7945 If yoiu bought this new, I would contact bachman. If used, you may need to disassemble it to see why the wheels are binding
Didn't help at all!!!!! Waste of time!
If it didn't help, what kind of issues are you having?