How to install Pertronix Electronic Ignition
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- čas přidán 16. 12. 2020
- In this video I cover how to upgrade from the standard points style ignition system to the Pertronix Electronic Ignition (part number 1281). This was incredibly easy to upgrade and can be done in no time. No longer needing to worry about adjusting the points is a piece of mind worth having with this system.
Ignition: Pertronix, part # 1281 amzn.to/3vfSGFQ
Also, check out the Pertronix 1.5 Ohm Coil to go with the Electronic Ignition amzn.to/3bpFgQV
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The car is a 1966 Mustang Coupe with a factory V8 and 4 speed transmission.
This video is a How to change from a points ignition system to a point-less ignition system on a 1966 Mustang
Shot with GoPro Hero 5, edited on Davinci Resolve 16.
Credit for the music in the video:
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Epidemic Sound
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Ohhh! I always wanted this for my old Mustang. I'll be upgrading this in my next project Mustang for sure!
Definitely a must have on these old cars.
Good camera work best I’ve seen on installing the upgrade.
Thanks!
Thanks good video.
Two things to keep in mind for ignitor 1 model.
The power supply should get 12v. Lay a new cable from the ignition swith or bridge the existing resistor cable. Most of the time only about 9 V arrive. This can lead to misfiring.
And also important to mention is, if you screw on the car for example on the electrics. The ignition should not stay on too long without the engine running. This can destroy the Pertronix ignition module.
Thanks for the heads up. :)
yep. Also a higher power coil. like a Lucas DLB105. Only like $25. Old coil is made for a ballast setup. Running ign wire like OP said and bumping up coil should increase spark.
77 t bird ..does it need a different 12 volt wire / can t use existing wire?
@@user-kt1qh3io8r
Messure if the positiv cable from ignition switch to the coil has 12V
If not, there is a resistor installed.
Then you have to find that cable near the ignition switch inside the car. Then bridge that cable, so there is the full voltage at the coil.
You also can install a relay, so that the coil/ red wire from pertronix modul gets the full power from the battery
Exactly what i needed to see!
Awesome, glad I could help. :)
This is so great need to get one for my nissan l18
Definitely worth the money!
5 stars ---- THANKS !
Awesome, hopefully there was some good info in there for you. :)
When removing points screws, don’t drop them so they end up down inside your distributor like I did. 40 mins later with a tiny magnetic screwdriver I found them and managed to get them out.
This is good advice. :)
Thanks, good video!
Glad it helped!
The dura spark2 on my 67 works just fine,very easy to adj.from 6° to 22°perfomence goes out the window,and speed is fast,just plain fast
Good to know. :)
Nice vid'.......thx for sharing. I am thinking of installing a Pertronix Ignitor in my '66 Fury. I was wondering if you had to turn your distributor to adjust the timing of your Mustang after you did this video?
Thanks! No adjustment to the timing is needed, but it's also assuming your timing is already dialed in before the upgrade. If not, no big deal, install the Pertronix, and then you can go about setting the timing just as if you had the old points in the car. I have a video on that if you need to watch it for a refresh. :)
Great video mate! Will this product work on 4cyl motors too?
I don't know why it wouldn't, just need to get the correct version from Pertronix and you're set! :)
HI Andy, Question... I don't know if the old mustangs came equipped like the 73 Trucks, but did you have to mess around with any ballast resistor wires leading to the positive on the ignition coil? I know the trucks have them, and I 'm not sure if I need to tinker with that or just install the parts and just go with that. Thanks for any advice!
Yes, my car has that resistor you are referring to, it's a thick pinkish wire behind the gauge cluster that ultimately connects to the coil. However, this Electronic Ignition is not affected by that wire (resistor), nor does anyone need to do anything different with that wire. This ignition upgrade is independent of anything like that, so anyone can install this in their distributor and go about their day. I don't know which specific model you'd need for your truck, but I bet it can be found on Pertronix's website. :)
Let me know how long the petronix ignitions last? I installed one in my mustang a few years back, do I need to buy a back up unit or do you feel they will last years??
I've installed one in each of my Mustangs, never had an issue with them. :)
Hello, thx for posting this. I need to readjust my module inside the distributor but don’t have the plastic tool. Do you know what gap that is? Thank you.
Pertronix says that gap needs to be 0.030"
@@AndyKruseChannel Thank you so much Andy!
My 289 had a dual point distributor. Would this item still work? Thanks for vid
It should, just remove both points and the condenser, install the hall-effect sensor and slide on the magnetic ring. Good luck!! :)
Thank you for posting the walk through. It makes perfect sense... but the inside of my distributor cap has an additional plate and springs. It seems like it should come out. Suggestions? I don't think I can post a pic here.
Good question, you could email me the pic, my email contact is in the "About" section on my channel.
@@AndyKruseChannel thanks man. You are a Saint. I have this taken apart and am now stuck. Sending!
@@robnordyke6151 Got the pic, I replied, the short answer looks like it should still work. :)
you probably dont give a shit but does any of you know a method to get back into an instagram account??
I was stupid forgot my password. I appreciate any tricks you can offer me.
@Bobby Vihaan Instablaster =)
Good afternoon brother Do you know if it is the same for a 350 small block
I believe you want the Pertronix 1181 for the SBC, not the 1281 that I use on my 289. Other than that, everything else should be the same. :)
Was your coil internally ballast? I didn't see a ballast resistor any where. Asking for a friend. 🤣 Good video. But seriously, do i need to keep or loose my ballast resistor?
I have the ‘pink’ resistor wire behind my gauge cluster, so I have an external resistor system.
Question, I did a motor swap on my 1976 Ford F-150. I took my 76’ 302 out and replaced it with a 95’ 302. We’re having trouble with the distributor. The 95’ is electronic where the 76’ was a points system. We tried to used the 76’ distributor with the 95’ motor but it seems that they’re not the same length or the oil pump rods are different lengths. The ignition plugs are not the same either. Not to sure what to do. Any advice?
Unfortunately I don't have much experience with the late model 302s, so I don't think I'm going to be much help here.
Is the black wire negative? I just don't want to screw it up
Yes.
Nissan Micra 2001-2002 CGA3DE has elctronic ignition?. 1li - CG10DE
Thanks for the heads up.
Would this work on a 260 v8 mercruiser boat motor
Yes, but I believe you'll want the ML-181 part number. The specific unit I used in this video won't work, but that new part number should. :)
Does that same system fit on a 1965 Mercury Comet straight 6 3.3L ?
Pertronix probably makes and electric ignition for the distributor in your car, I just don’t know the model number for it. 🙂
So, my factory coil on my 67 289 has a red and black wire. The yellow top on the coil is marked positive and negative. My new coil is marked battery and distributor. Which wire goes to which terminal? I don't want to burn up a new coil
It should be the same, red to positive and black to negative. But I am confused why the new coil is marked battery and distributor, I have not seen that before.
@@AndyKruseChannel that's because your last name isn't Phillips. You don't have my luck. Lol. I would send a picture to you if I could
I'm picking one up tomorrow Andy, saw one dude install........... after he was adjusting timing and such. There was no need right, just getting rid of points right, you never time a car after adjusting points so I see no reason after installing this?
I have not touched or changed anything with respect to my timing since I made that video. On a previous Mustang I had problems with the points to where I had to have the car towed one time. I installed this Petronix system on that car and never had problems again. It was one of the first items I new I wanted to buy for this Mustang because I knew it worked so well. It really is a "set it and forget it" part. It doesn't matter if it's winter or summer, it always works. :)
Thanks I’m sticking with just that, I’m not getting a hotter coil, I read too many positive/negative talk on coils, I’ll stick with stock coil. One guy on here did same install you did but he had a coil that had one terminal and he was pulling wires through firewall splicing, I’m like damn stick with stock coil unless they have one slightly better than stock without being too hot. Less than 40,000
Did you remove your resist wire? I have read these years need that removed to get the full 12 volts to coil.
Sorry Boss, I'm not sure I understand which wire you are referring to. Inside the Cap, there is the Capacitor and the Points mechanism which I removed. The only thing I left in there was the ground wire from before.
@@AndyKruseChannel the way I understand it is, the hot to the coil is only 12 volts at cranking. The rest of the time its 7-9 volts because of the resist wire. But honestly I don't know where the resist wire is thats why I'm wanting videos so I can get it right and not mess my pertonix unit. But your video is 7 months old guess if it wasn't working you would know by now so guess your right my info must be wrong. Thanks for videos I appreciate them.
@@warhawkgarage1272 I had this Petronix system in my previous '66 Mustang, and now in this '66 Mustang. I'd agree, if there was any ignition issues I would have had them by now. :)
I'm glad you are able to find some value in these videos.
@@AndyKruseChannel great videos keep them up.
Sup Warhawk and Andy, yes there is a pink resistor wire on my 65' mustang coupe. It's purpose is to prevent the coil from receiving a full 12 volts when the key is in the "on" position. This was used on early model Mustangs and even comes in the new wiring harnesses. Pertronix says that the ignitor needs the full 12 volts though and anything less will damage the module. So you need to either bypass the resistor wire, remove it (wouldn't recommend that in case you need to go back to points for some reason), or you can buy the relay that Pertronix sells for this issue exactly. If none of that made sense, please refer to these links for more info :)
1) czcams.com/video/uQ0smsIO8Js/video.html
2) czcams.com/video/c76knXFuXH0/video.html
3) www.vintage-mustang.com/threads/pertronix-resistor-wire.1159894/
5) czcams.com/video/D2X-m1uRYLw/video.html
4) www.cjponyparts.com/pertronix-ignition-power-relay-kit/p/PER2001
Make sure you have 12 volts to the Petronix. Not the 9 volts from a resistor.
Good to know.
Just bought a n old mustang it has the pertronix, it went 5 blocks and died, any thoughts
Checked fuel, (primed carb) it was running ok, just coming up to temp, had oil pressure, checked fuel.pump.....so figured ignition
If it is trying to fire, it's probably not the Pertronix. Some have said they have seen them fail, but I've put it on 3 different cars and it hasn't failed on them.
Start with the basics - Fuel, Air, and Spark. I see buy your other comment that you've begun to check those things, so continue to dig into each. It's tough to diagnose via commenting on CZcams, so I'm not going to be much help without being there. Also check wiring connections. Some times a loose connection is a quick and easy fix. :)
What gap should it be?
Nice video, but clean up your battery posts and wires!
You're correct, they need to be cleaned up. I plan to move the battery to the trunk, so hopefully I can do a better job with the terminals.
Ace the Annoying music.
I've never had someone call my Ace here on CZcams, but I'll take it. :)
good vid music is annoying and disrtacting
Cool, this video is over 3 years old, what would you like me to do?
How reliable is this system
I put one of these on all three of my Mustangs and I've never had a problem. :)
So left both pos wired on the pos side of the coil , you didnt explain or showed that part
Correct, just match the "+" and "-" wires to the same terminals on the coil. :)