No need to take a wheel off to get the rear fender off if the bike isn’t lifted. Just take the seat off and the 2 bolts on each side of the frame and the rear fender lifts right off with the two sub frames attached. Only need to unplug the rear lights from under the seat. Much easier to tackle unbolting the subframe from the fender when it’s off the bike.
Strong enough for a passenger.....?should be ok lol. If it’s not, and you survive.... I see $$ for you in an aftermarket answer. Machined piece that can be bolted on. Welded steel setup for in house fab jobs....? The world is your oyster. Great channel
Your rants are hilarious! The more expensive Harleys become the cheaper they build them. I'm an engineer and people like to blame us for that crap, but the reality is sales and marketing usually have more power and they force us to design products to a price point. I haven't seen the outcome of this, but I wouldn't trust my ass to scraping with those struts. They're obviously plenty strong enough to support a seat, fender, rider and a passenger. Scraping is going to subject them to the shock load of a nearly 700 pound motorcycle and a 200 pound rider slamming down on the edge that wasn't designed to support weight. Those stock struts would probably eventually taco.
I think you already know the answer to all of the colorfully asked rhetorical questions that you posed in your video. And that is build your own subframe and scrap the cheap aluminum that came stock. Build it so you would feel comfortable with your mother wheeling and scraping the bike. You have the skills, just make your own and patent it. Before you know it, you’ll be rolling in hookers and popcorn :). Keep the videos coming. Love them.
I know this is old but as the bike was made that subframe doesn't take any load from the shocks like a Dyna so it doesn't need to be made as strong. It holds up the fender and the lights. Passenger too I guess
So I’ve already built a sub frame on this bike haven’t tried to hit it yet because I made it a little deep. But I made this video like a month ago and totally forgot about it but it’s a good one
You're spot on about those struts. They seem like an engineered solution for trim levels. I almost feel like if you're looking for strength and rigidity that welding new struts is the solution.
Find another fix point or forget about long term strong. There ain't no chingasa stronger than the wachamacallit that it's screwed 'n' glued to. That can be a good thing, like a sacrificial anode. When you break it off and crash and there is little pieces of you and bike spread out over a ball field of highway and you need to look cool to your friends, just tell them you did it that way to "I did it that way to protect my frame"
I wouldn't trust those pieces. I believe there would be too much weight and torque being put on that thin of cast aluminium. Like you said that is not High grade c&c Aluminium. I believe they will take a little bit of abuse than fracture at the bolt hole points. Fabricate some steel ones with slider mounts.
We’ve been talking about making some out of stainless steel tube but they will be down the road a bit. I built a sub frame and scrape plate for it it’s in another video this video is kind of old I just forgot to post it. I use quarter inch steel by 2 inch thick she’s real strong
@@kruesioriginals Sounds awesome was just giving my amateur opinion you guys are the professionals and everything I am doing on my Dyna is inspired by you guys. Much love and merry Christmas to the hole crew.
I’d say that cast shit is barely past an annealed state (soft) whereas you could get 7075 tempered Kaiser/Arconic/Amag etc product and CNC machine it and sleep at night
Oh yeah just to move the lights from subframe of course my bike factory height had to take. the tire off just for that BS. You honesty is gone save a lot of people in the long run man. Maybe a nut welded to the inside of new bracket would be nice but then it would have to fold around fender idk may be bulky that way. I’m not a fabricator just throwing some ideas out there.
I found that if you just unbolt the four bolts that bolt the sub frame to the bike itself you can pull the whole unit off and then take the rails off of the fender. Take some time but there’s a lot less cussing and screaming involved😂
That aluminum….idk…. I do know there are several grades of aluminum… there is some super strong aircraft aluminum …. I’m becoming more and more interested in that swingarm conversation idea
This is the reason I quit riding Harley’s 8 years ago. The crank shaft is cast iron garbage with .011 runout tolerance. They quit using Timken bearings and went to their own “in house” bearings with 50% fewer ball bearings in the race, garbage compensators, stators that are pop riveted together, engines that wiggling and wobble in the frames because the only thing they’re connected to in the rear is the fucking swing arm !! Chain drive primary, who does that !? The reason they keep that is due to the ridiculous amount of runout at the crank ! A gear drive set up couldn’t work with runout like that. They cheapen everything but charge a premium for it. Say what you want about Polaris, but I’ll buy an Indian and get a bike where all of the above is done correctly.
I’m 185 lbs and my gf is 100 and I have slammed into some potholes sadly driving my M8 2020 softail in the city and surprising it’s still stiff and holds tight. What you guys think any comments ?
I agree, this guy can out ride me 10 times over, but this is a video about nothing. I guess if you ride 2-up with a 300 pound chick on the back, it might break. If you ride one up the only thing that is supporting is the fender.
I’ll definitely think I’ll think twice about putting my deuce and a half lover on the back of an m8 poor girl would end up with a permanent landing strip having that snap off thanks Harley we love cheap cast aluminum from China here in North America lol
Don’t forget “it’s fit for purpose “ Not meant for stunts or modifications, or big fat old ladies......... or me..... But ok for what it was designed for.
Run what you fucking brung..if it don't go chrome that bitch..just kidding Ryan don't die homie we still need you bro..fucking 🧀 rails..maybe new steel rails and bolt the 1 o'clock bar to that...we love you in Cali bro bro..
No need to take a wheel off to get the rear fender off if the bike isn’t lifted. Just take the seat off and the 2 bolts on each side of the frame and the rear fender lifts right off with the two sub frames attached. Only need to unplug the rear lights from under the seat.
Much easier to tackle unbolting the subframe from the fender when it’s off the bike.
Lol I think it’s strong enough for YOU to test it out. I’ll wait patiently from my living room.
😂😂 hell yes
Strong enough for a passenger.....?should be ok lol. If it’s not, and you survive.... I see $$ for you in an aftermarket answer. Machined piece that can be bolted on. Welded steel setup for in house fab jobs....? The world is your oyster. Great channel
Your rants are hilarious! The more expensive Harleys become the cheaper they build them. I'm an engineer and people like to blame us for that crap, but the reality is sales and marketing usually have more power and they force us to design products to a price point.
I haven't seen the outcome of this, but I wouldn't trust my ass to scraping with those struts. They're obviously plenty strong enough to support a seat, fender, rider and a passenger. Scraping is going to subject them to the shock load of a nearly 700 pound motorcycle and a 200 pound rider slamming down on the edge that wasn't designed to support weight. Those stock struts would probably eventually taco.
Seat off, unbolt the rails at the frame, then unbolt the fender from the rails in and out. Donezo
Take the seat off and push the fender up. very easy to get that third bolt out.
I think you already know the answer to all of the colorfully asked rhetorical questions that you posed in your video. And that is build your own subframe and scrap the cheap aluminum that came stock. Build it so you would feel comfortable with your mother wheeling and scraping the bike. You have the skills, just make your own and patent it. Before you know it, you’ll be rolling in hookers and popcorn :). Keep the videos coming. Love them.
I know this is old but as the bike was made that subframe doesn't take any load from the shocks like a Dyna so it doesn't need to be made as strong. It holds up the fender and the lights. Passenger too I guess
So I’ve already built a sub frame on this bike haven’t tried to hit it yet because I made it a little deep. But I made this video like a month ago and totally forgot about it but it’s a good one
Did you post a video of the sub frame build?
Never mind I found it
You're spot on about those struts. They seem like an engineered solution for trim levels.
I almost feel like if you're looking for strength and rigidity that welding new struts is the solution.
Find another fix point or forget about long term strong. There ain't no chingasa stronger than the wachamacallit that it's screwed 'n' glued to. That can be a good thing, like a sacrificial anode. When you break it off and crash and there is little pieces of you and bike spread out over a ball field of highway and you need to look cool to your friends, just tell them you did it that way to "I did it that way to protect my frame"
I wouldn't trust those pieces. I believe there would be too much weight and torque being put on that thin of cast aluminium. Like you said that is not High grade c&c Aluminium. I believe they will take a little bit of abuse than fracture at the bolt hole points. Fabricate some steel ones with slider mounts.
We’ve been talking about making some out of stainless steel tube but they will be down the road a bit. I built a sub frame and scrape plate for it it’s in another video this video is kind of old I just forgot to post it. I use quarter inch steel by 2 inch thick she’s real strong
@@kruesioriginals Sounds awesome was just giving my amateur opinion you guys are the professionals and everything I am doing on my Dyna is inspired by you guys. Much love and merry Christmas to the hole crew.
I’d say that cast shit is barely past an annealed state (soft) whereas you could get 7075 tempered Kaiser/Arconic/Amag etc product and CNC machine it and sleep at night
Knocked it outta the park. Great job I live the bike!
Oh yeah just to move the lights from subframe of course my bike factory height had to take. the tire off just for that BS. You honesty is gone save a lot of people in the long run man. Maybe a nut welded to the inside of new bracket would be nice but then it would have to fold around fender idk may be bulky that way. I’m not a fabricator just throwing some ideas out there.
I found that if you just unbolt the four bolts that bolt the sub frame to the bike itself you can pull the whole unit off and then take the rails off of the fender. Take some time but there’s a lot less cussing and screaming involved😂
I agree with this view. I will go on to say for most riders buying new Harleys it works just fine.
Man if you and I worked in the same shop, the only thing that would be heard would be cussing and wrenches being thrown.
Then you bolted shocks onto it?
Legend 👍
That aluminum….idk…. I do know there are several grades of aluminum… there is some super strong aircraft aluminum …. I’m becoming more and more interested in that swingarm conversation idea
Is it possible to load test that thing somehow before using it?
Your straight to the point no bullshit pure awesomeness
😎🤘🏼🤘🏼
This is the reason I quit riding Harley’s 8 years ago. The crank shaft is cast iron garbage with .011 runout tolerance. They quit using Timken bearings and went to their own “in house” bearings with 50% fewer ball bearings in the race, garbage compensators, stators that are pop riveted together, engines that wiggling and wobble in the frames because the only thing they’re connected to in the rear is the fucking swing arm !! Chain drive primary, who does that !? The reason they keep that is due to the ridiculous amount of runout at the crank ! A gear drive set up couldn’t work with runout like that. They cheapen everything but charge a premium for it. Say what you want about Polaris, but I’ll buy an Indian and get a bike where all of the above is done correctly.
Good luck with that. Polaris frames break with no reason. Yeah, "done correctly." Haha
steering stabilizer fixes that wobble though yeah?
I’m 185 lbs and my gf is 100 and I have slammed into some potholes sadly driving my M8 2020 softail in the city and surprising it’s still stiff and holds tight. What you guys think any comments ?
I agree, this guy can out ride me 10 times over, but this is a video about nothing. I guess if you ride 2-up with a 300 pound chick on the back, it might break. If you ride one up the only thing that is supporting is the fender.
I jump mine and she's minty fresh in the rear end still
Grab a beer, pull em off and fab up your own shit. 👍🏽👊🏽
Shitting on soft tails hell's yes. Love it
I think the aluminum struts should be ok, however I’d be more worried about the factory bolts.
Amen. The rails are channeled which makes them a lot stronger. But I will definitely be put in grade 8 bolts in there
Hence the term softail
I’ll definitely think I’ll think twice about putting my deuce and a half lover on the back of an m8 poor girl would end up with a permanent landing strip having that snap off thanks Harley we love cheap cast aluminum from China here in North America lol
Kruesi got a fix for that shit doe 👌🏻🤘🏻👇🏻
😂😂😂 I’m dying hahaha
Fuck it! Send it homie!!!
Do you like the new lowrider ST frame?
its the same frame
@kruesioriginals I didn't know that thanks
e1 shittin on softails
635 pounds wet for the bike 800 pounds plus the rider. even a fraction of that weight falling on that bullshit fender brace will no doubt fold it.
I'd say no on trusting that aluminum sub frame. Make one similar to it that's straight steel or some shit.
Don’t forget “it’s fit for purpose “
Not meant for stunts or modifications, or big fat old ladies......... or me.....
But ok for what it was designed for.
Run what you fucking brung..if it don't go chrome that bitch..just kidding Ryan don't die homie we still need you bro..fucking 🧀 rails..maybe new steel rails and bolt the 1 o'clock bar to that...we love you in Cali bro bro..
Fuckin send that shit
I love My 91 FXRS
No I would not use the cast aluminum.
I've had a few Dynas and they never had that much room between the rear fender and tire.
I think he's using a riser on the shock
stunting is for teenagers dude.
Lol
bag it, cheap part replace with one of ur own,
FUCKKKKK NO