Solar "MPPT" lithium cell charge module
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- čas přidán 13. 05. 2024
- I started off feeling quite enthusiastic about this new and interesting integrated circuit. But after a bit of exploration I'm not sure it's any better than the classic TP4056 type chip.
The promise of adjustable charge voltage threshold was dashed when it turned out you can only adjust it upwards. Especially when the block diagram hints at a more versatile option.
It's notable that it has much lower tolerance of overvoltage on the solar panel input (6V) than the classic TP4056 (8V).
If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm
This also keeps the channel independent of CZcams's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.
#ElectronicsCreators - Věda a technologie
I wonder how many Chinese IC designers and manufacturers do watch Big Clive videos now? He effectively is giving them free product development consultancy!
They already know how to do it properly it just costs more
Yup 👍
Effectively none because CZcams is blocked in China. Unless someone pirated it over to bilibili (Chinese CZcams clone).
CZcams is blocked in China though
Why not! 😉
If I see a chips coming out of China with “FOR CLIVE” written on the back I won’t be surprised.
The tricky thing about what you propose is that often on chip resistors match each other quite well, but their absolute value is all over the map (+- 20% variation isn't unheard of). The internal resistor divider can be quite accurate without any additional trim since a divider is a ratio of resistors. But as soon as you do what you propose, the internal R values have to be 0 tc (many on chip resistors have significant TC) and trimmed to value. That's alot harder.
But the same is true with the series Resistor 🤔
@@juergenschimmer960 If you check the datasheet the equation to set the termination voltage suggests the the FB (feedback) node uses a precision current sink (not a pair of resistors as shown in the block diagram) which controls the voltage dropped over the series resistor. Generating precision currents within an IC is actually easier than getting precision resistances.
True. It may also be the case that the two pins were deliberately separated for production test of the two circuit sections independently. However, it is potentially possible that this test could be performed at probe test and the two pads double bonded to the same pin.....
There is some truth to the chip resistors' Tc, but there's a significant reason why it's standard practice to avoid resistors in ic design that plays a role here, and usually why they use transistors instead. Most importantly, they take up a lot of space, and actually are even more variable in value tolerance than chip resistors since it's hard to perfectly predict the resistance of a squiggly line, especially if you compare them to thin films. The only reason you don't notice such variability from one ic to another that implement resistors (and every ic has at least one to set the current source) is that they will all be more or less consistent due to the deposition/lithography process, regardless if they're in spec as long as they meet the datasheet characteristics, and also because you don't ever see the QA rejects directly from the manufacturer: they sell those to Bojack and other such Amazon/ebay companies. I was honestly blown away to find that the reject rate of opamps for example is close to 70%. Also the same reason why there's a bc546,7,8 and 9. They all come from the same silicon wafer, but they vary way more than one would like to predict.
Sorry, long story short: the Tc of chip resistors is negligible in most cases in comparison, and there's always ways to work around those shortfalls
@@sgctactics If you look at the die plot for this IC you will see that polysilicon resistors are used. They are a bit hard to discern because they are mainly under the power bussing and also covered with metal fill pattern.
Videos on modules like this are so useful, Clive 👍 There are so many cheap electronic modules like this for anything and everything these days, but it's so hard to find reviews to work out if they'll be any good 🤷♂️
Absolutely right, when I hunt for modules on Amazon most of what I'm looking for has no reviews or reviews left by people who didn't know what they were doing. His videos on the TP4056 and other charge modules have helped a lot.
Second that vote.
I'm so glad you did a video on these little modules, I love them, I've bought several from Aliexpress. I've been buying cheap solar lights from Dollarama that have 18650's in them (yes a full size 18650 in a dollar store solar lamp!), but their charge controller just overcharges the battery eventually frying it. I just use these boards as a drop in replacement for their charge controller and it fixes them. I have graphed all the values using an ESP32 - the battery voltage goes up until it gets pegged perfectly at 4.16v every time, which is within the 1% threshold they claim in the datasheet. The current on my solar boards goes up to 250mA, but once it reaches 4.16v you can see the current graph curve downwards until it levels off at roughly the amount of current the ESP32 draws. Then it will also deliver a few milliamps in non-full sun as well. It seems to have two modes, and when it goes into full charging mode, the voltage measurement of the solar panel suddenly drops and gets pegged to 4.2v. I think these charge controllers are great, they have all the features, but you're right it would have been nice to continue using them when I eventually make the switch to LifePo, whose low voltage eliminates the need for a voltage regulator in my ESP32 projects.
I almost searched for a module like them just a week ago. My 9 cell (5.5V 260mA) solar power banks have also been overcharging and ruining their single 18650s forcing my fairylights into hibernation. I'm currently awaiting some 3.9V (not 4.2V) zener diodes for (hopefully) a lazy similar effect parallel to the panels cells.. Either this module or re-purposing the existing DC charge circuit could also work.
Haven't come across those solar units in Canada. Can you confirm they are single or dual polarity output.. I bought mine in bulk with switchable polarity and could use a dual channel unit from time to time..
@@starlights50 Not sure what you mean, there's just the one fixed output as far as I can tell. Never heard of dual polarity output.
@@moeburn What does yours power? Seed/Fairylights strings often have every other LED reversed in polarity. . some have 2 parallel diodes in 1 drop of resin that are opposite in polarity. Typically a second colour of LED. BC has (briefly)mentioned them as well. The lithium Solar bank outputs PWM +/- 3.5V.. It took me a freakish amount of time to find single channel(switchable) solar banks for fairylights. My profile can take you to my homemade sales video.(pretty pictures of lights in trees..)
The solution is to go the other way around - use a LiFePo4 charging IC and boost its voltage. I got inspired by your previous video using a diode, and searched around to find CN3058E to fit the bill - it is mostly pin-compatible and the hack is pretty easy - I've done it on several of my boards:
1. Desolder the TP4056 using hot air (or hot plate).
2. Solder a thin wire to pad 8 on the PCB, let it cool, rip the pad out (just to be sure)
3. Bend the CN3058E pin 8 upwards, again to avoid accidental contact with leftover copper on pad 8
4. Solder the CN3058E to the PCB using hot air
5. Solder a 100K resistor between pin 8 and pin 5 (or battery terminal directly) - according to the datasheet, this boosts the 3.6V to 3.96V. I use a small 0603 resistor placed flat on top of the CN3058E plastic package + tiny enamel wire, but a good old leaded resistor will work.
6. Profit!
Getting genuine CN3058E might be a slight problem (unless you're used to buying parts from LCSC), but I got mine for $1.77 / 10pcs from Aliexpress (look for positive ratings/reviews to avoid fakes) and they indeed charge to ~3.92V given this mod.
Interesting to see the instruction (!) 'Make in China' printed on the back!!
Yes: if the unpopulated board ends up anywhere else, it’s an instruction: finish the assembly ONLY in China!
Maybe a response to India's "Make in India" campaign (which is squarely aimed at China)
Electronic components have evolved from the cell level to the organ level.
Have you heard of the cell's mechanism for moving its flagella being akin to an electric motor?
@@Crowfist No. But it wouldn't surprise me.
the plastic welder video left it's mark... that's certain at least
I’ve recently received the same module via eBay. Your video explained the workings of this module better than the seller did. Of course I knew it wasn’t MPPT. But it is a nice charging unit and works quite well. Note: it gets very hot when the load is 500 mA or higher…
Clive, as to your comment about the TP4056, you can directly use a solar panel, as the input voltage (max. 8Vdc) is more compatible with 5-6Vdc panels. And, the TP5100 (designed for 1-2S configuration) is even more so: 5-18Vdc. If the panel's voltage drops, then it just lowers, & drops out. When it gets to about 3-4Vdc (from memory) then it just shuts down. Then will restart once the voltage is high enough.
nb. I use the version 2 modules, which have extra componentry for current protection.
Depends on the individual chips and solar panels. I stuck a panel that was giving me 7.9v with no load into a TP4056 board and it instantly popped even with a cell already connected (so definitely with a load).
It may have been a clone chip with lower max voltage but you can't tell before you buy.
I'll probably end up getting 2S chargers though for the project it was for. 12v solar panels are easier to come by cheap, at least here.
I am using this device connected to a solar panel and feeding a lithium with its own protection.
It's the best solar charging solution I found.
It keeps the solar panels providing power when the sun light diminish.
I had a go at making my own solar mppt controller at one point last year. Was going well until I melted the breadboard I was using, turned out the current event from a little 25w panel was too much.
It's actually a really interesting circuit because it involves using a high side n-channel MOSFET switch rather than the normal way of switching on the ground.
When did you break the 1 million followers? Well done!!! Have you shown your million subscribers plaque on your live show? Sorry havnt been watching for a couple if weeks,will do a catch up session soon!! Well done again clive🙏❤️
I did a while ago. I suppose I should put the plaque on the wall someday.
@@bigclivedotcomhow come you don't superimpose your face on the video blocking half of it,like all the other uploaders. you aren't into the " me,ME me,LOOK AT MEEEEEEEE trend?
Of course you should!! The million subscribers stream!!!
Well done big clive🙏❤️
Slightly misleading description on AliExpress??
I guess it makes a change from totally incorrect ones. 🤣🤣
Still not a bad product and we can even have a tinker with it. Cheers Clive 2x👍
Im disapointed they dont adveritise it as a Thousand Billion Amp charging module.
@@rimmersbryggeriWhoever coined the phrase "x thousand milliamps" for power banks.... Bloody marketing people!
I bought some of the same chip on a different board. I should have realized there can be no MPPT without an inductor, signifying a switching voltage converter, on the board. Also, the boards I bought, with 3 JST connectors and a micro-USB, were all over the place with the charge current when they were advertised as 1 amp. So I was had two ways!
I made a design 2 years ago using this little chip, it's been working really well. It's a wireless pot watering system that measures the water humidity and has a little pump to water the soil. They have survived even through the winter. It is capable of charging a tiny amount even in low light.
You can hook up ISET to an ADC on your MCU to get the charge current.
Hey Big Clive, ahead of moving into my new house, I'm sorting through 19 years of accumulated $h1t, and I've got gazillions of AC power adaptors, figure of eight mains leads, and audio and video cables! ... It's like a bloody e-waste mountain! ... But, the moment you throw anything away, you immediately have to buy a new one, because you need it again! ... I'm gonna end up on a hoarder TV show, buried under a mountain of scart leads!
I have just watched a Mike's Electric stuff video recently and wondered about Mike's pile of stuff compared with Clive's pile of stuff. good to know that there is a fair distance apart or there could be a critical mass thing going on...
@@Fixerbob There's gonna be a 'critical mass' thing going on alright, at my new house! ... I literally won't be able to move for $h1t! ... I'll need more than a bloody skip! 👎🤣
@@Fixerbob Just don't pull out that screwdriver...
Every so often I go through my accumulated electronics and peripherals, and give the usable (functional) stuff to Habitat for Humanity to sell in their store. It's been rare that I ever wished I still had any particular gizmo or had to go out and buy a new one, it's a small trade-off for all the extra space I now have in my storage shed. And I figure someone who DOES need a particular item can get it for cheap.
One caveat, though - if you go browsing through their store it's very tempting to pick up a few things "just in case" you could use them for a project of your own!
I have the very same problem (or passion😅 haven't fully decided which it is) for collecting electronics of all sorts. Literally mountain's of circuits boards and old broken chargers, TVs (CRTs and flat screen,) microwaves an entire wardrobe full of car radios and other radio equipment some working most not. Just got my 1st old PC yesterday and put up a video of it on my page. Wanted an ATX for so long now to make a PSU from it.
But the "HORDING" is becoming a problem.. (I'm running out of room 😂😂😂.
Don't want the gaff getting to the point where you have little paths through all the CRAP me and father have brought into the house. Me with electronics and him with everything and anything. I can let go and dump stuff when it gets to bad, but my poor father was really upset when we had 3 bags in front of him, 1 for stuff to be dumped, another for stuff he could keep,band the 3rd for stuff we weren't fully sure about at that time. When you hear someone say "I NEED THAT" about an empty jam jar you know you have a horder in the family. he was trying to keep everything (even plastic bags and broken pairs of glasses for the pound shop/Euro-saver. It was sad to see but it finally made him realise he had a huge problem.. I have too. And it's time again for full house emptying again. Both my crap/class stuff, & his pure shight. 😂
But we are who we are & it'll all build back up in about a month or two. 😅
Need a woman in the house. I'm at the age (45) where id rather memorise the pathways through the junk. 😁
Remember ,, it's only a problem if you can't dump most it most of it in the skip every now and then.. 👍😊🇮🇪
Mr Clive, I'm a long time viewer and have learned so very much from you videos.
Thank you.
I have a video suggestion for you to make.
I would love to see a video describing your education and knowledge path that lead you to where you are today. I think it would be valuable to the youth and anyone along the path learning about electronics.
Thanks again, mate.
Nice Big Clive. Thanks. Agree. It would be nice with the other tap so you could cater to LiFePO4 cells. I'd like to build something with a couple of these Headway cells I have that are rated at 8 amps. They're beefcakes but finding the protection circuits for them wasn't easy.
Putting a TL431 between the chip and ground would add a precise 2.5v offset. This would make the chip think the battery is 2.5 volts lower than it actually is. Modify the resistor to suit.
I remember buying first boards available with this module (red pcb) few years ago. They were advertised with complete mix of buzzwords and even marked as "12V 1s liion". Basically you needed to reverse engineer everything 😅
Year's ago I built a 555 timer mppt charge controller based off a popular project and an automotive relay back in the day.
I tested it, set it up and have never needed to attend a battery since. It's been almost 15 year's now!
But I remember while looking at ic chipsets I come across something similar but in a smd and 16 pins, I got a sample and I couldn't believe how small it was...
Superb analysis and suggestions.
Excellent timing Clive :D I started looking into using small solar panels for the first time yesterday. Planning to power some garden lights and water pumps this summer. Your reverse engineering and explanations of these how these PCBs work are always super easy to follow. It also makes datasheets easier to take in after you've given your walk though. Anyway, just saying thanks in the least concise way possible 👍
Good info. I was recently wondering about these boards being sold as MPPT.
I'd love to see what the actual circuit in that chip looks like. Incredible that they pack all of that into a chip smaller than a finger nail.
I do hope he collabs with one of the chip decapping guys sometime. Would also be cool to see some of those blob chips opened up
At 7:15, the battery voltage setting can be lowered to anything you like by taking that pin down to ground via a resistor, and adding a series resistor between the pin and the battery.
Very clever circuit besides the mistakes pointed out by Clive, thank you
Thanks
I'll bookmark this video. Maybe it would help me with my next DIY project. Thanks!
Looks useful for pairing with a Lorawan device.
You could connect your diode on the BAT term, but connect the FB directly to the cell, that way you get the little voltage drop without it doing the massive slow down that you saw with the TP4056 (although that might also be solvable by adding a capacitor before the diode, so that acts as the cell it's trying to charge)
I bought this module too, but from the jungle site a while ago ... I think the mppt will arrive in a second delivery in a century or so. It was just a charger.
You also have the cn3158. The one has a standard voltage of 3.63v
Mind you, you can put a low forward voltage drop Shottky diode between the battery +ve terminal and the charging line, to make the charger "think" the cell's fully charged since it uses voltage sensing to determine charge status
Sounds reasonable to me...also an unwelcome tax in times of low sun. Must.. avoid.. overhead!! Eh!
Thank you, keep working.
I've got several hw107 boards with salvaged 18650 cells charging from 6V solar panels, sold on alix as 10A - rofl, actually nearer 2.5A in full sun with a pancaked cell & 850mA with the 1A chip. I use a bc556 across the output to switch on sets of leds at dusk. Nothing has gone fizz so far and my lights switch on and off every night with no issues.
I was planning on buying a few more panels to add more lights around the place. They give enough light to see if the dog is under your feet or navigate to the bathroom, kitchen or down the stairs without going a/t.
There is another version of the chip dedicated for charging LiFePO4 cells. It's called CN3158 and its pinout is identical to the IC presented in your video.
Execelent vídeo,.
Tks 🎩
It certainly would have been nice to have direct access to the Vamp+. However, you can put a divider on the FB and not just a resistor to BAT. I haven't thought thru all the details, but that seems to provide all the flexibility. Worst case FB would need to be raised above Vbat.
that low current mode sounds interesting for cloudy and rainy days which is most days here.
Check out the 10 pin ShangHai Consonance Elec CN3791, looks like an upgraded version of this chip.
A quick look at the datasheet suggests it may be fixed 4.2V.
I use to see tp4056 boards packaged with a 5.1v zener that were sold as 1s lithium solar chargers. I think the intent was to use the included diode to clamp the input voltage from a low power 6v panel.
I need to power/charge phones by tapping directly on battery terminals. This is for an application where the phones will be constantly powered. But I can't find a decent power supply, so my plan is to use adjustable buck converters to convert 12v to 3.6v. So I get the need of keeping a cell to a normal, closer to storage, voltage. For a solar aplication, one will in general destroy the battery due to excessive discharge and never reaching full charge. Unless bigger panels and batteries are used. Something that can handle power for multiple days in bad weather conditions and be overpowerd enough to consider battery limit. For example I would love to power an esp32 from solar and don't worry about it loosing power or destroying the battery.
Great video as always!
I have some, do you know what the max current is for the LED indicator output?
I was thinking that it would be great if you hane power source that could go above 6v with low current and the 'Charged' output could absorb that current and thus keep the voltage below 6v when the power isn't needed anyway?
Thanx for the video!
Very interesting.
Can you make another video of the "brother" of this board? DD05CVSA.
I bought a few to check and compare. Bought 5V and 12V version. Seems R1 is the resistor which sets the output voltage.
Going to experiment with it, replacing the resistor with a pot, so the output voltage can be set to what is desired.
Thinking of using this board to be replaced along with an 18650 cell in existing outdoor LED lights. 😊
Hey! I made a board based ont he CN chips! They work awesome!
To charge the battery to say 4v, maybe add a pull-up resistor from the input to FB. Then add a schottky diode with 0.2v drop to BAT.
I think that you can't have MPPT without a decent-sized capacitor and inductor. For any good-sized one they will be large toroid coils. I suppose you could have one that uses a resistive regulator, but then you're just throwing away the excess voltage as heat (and MPPT is about higher efficiency), rather than turning it into extra current as in the inductor version.
Last I looked at one of these (and I use them), it just fixes the solar input voltage, so isn't REALLY MPPT, but quite useful given the price and simplicity. The one I have can select the voltage with DIP switches.
Sodium cell? I sense a teardown in the near future 😂
Honestly they sound like a step backward, I'd suggest they be used for single use applications but as 5hose are being banned left and 4igh5,whats the use
Perhaps the chip company makes a version with the change you suggested?
What happens if you stick a resistor on the ground pin wouldn't that also change the voltage divider?
Big Bravo for mentioning LiFePO4, an Na cell voltages!!! If they don't make a chip for them, then somebody else will...
They do. CN3158.
@@SirWolfCZ Thank you Sir Wolf!!!
OAAAHHH! I've used those!!!
Your modes to boards have been great tocharge or led lights.
Kind of sad these are sold as MPPT. There are other chips in the same so-8 package that are capable of it. But that would require the added expense of an inductor.
and a switching diode oOOOoo scary.
Herez my 2 cents .. make it so
Thank you for your videos ! By the way what printer do you use to print out the schematics ?
Epson ecotank.
Generally, integrated resistors have very precise ratios and terrible absolute values. Instead of having two LEDs, they could have a transistor that enables the FB circuit for an even lower power consumption and a feedback pin without any resistors. Look the BQ25173 implementation.
My Solar panels would Blow the Magic smoke out of that like a Firecracker. AHAHAHAHA
Thanks Clive....
ElectroBoom 😻
@@mySeaPrince_ Solar powered BOOM...
@@m9ovich785
I did reply but it's not appeared...
I'm Off-Grid 35 years..
Look at my about page.
With Mmpt I'd expect boost buck circutry to change the effective impedence seen by solar pannels. I dont see any inductors. For very low currents, maybe converters can be made with capacitors?
The lion kingdom's solar panel makes just enough power to keep the car battery topped off in the shade, not enough to power any more than a linear regulator.
Hi Clive, can a resistor diode in series pulled up to Vin can fix the problem? FB pin will be fed by battery*+Vfdiode voltage.
I have o-level grade b in electronics... omg...... my project for this was a solar powered thermometer......
mashed out here 😂
please more soda stream vids......
N x
MPPT doesn't really make much sense for low power applications like cell charging - on rootfop solar it makes a lot of sense because you can get tens of watts more power with MPPT than without. MPPT basically tracks the V-I curve of the solar panel - there's a certain open circuit (0A) voltage, and a certain short-circuit current (0V) and in-between those two there's a I-V point where maximum power from the cell will be achieved - draw less current and the voltage goes up, but the total power goes down. Draw more current and the voltage goes down more so power goes down again. It's basically at a knee in the I-V curve . On small panels you're probably going to get maybe milliwatts extra with MPPT.
I wonder if it can be pushed high enough to charge multiple series cells maybe a pack of NiMH or other lower voltage cells might be doable if charged in series. Maybe a pair of LiFePO4 cells with a max voltage of 6.8v It might want some balancing but if the chip can take the higher voltages without letting the smoke out you could get around only being able to go higher by increasing the number of series cells
It would be awesome if a chip or board could be made that could be made that is used with a boost converter or buck converter, even buck / boost converters to convert them to mppt charge controllers. It could be very interesting!!..
Would be good to see if this does do some power point tracking, even if its just something cheap like PWM and not a true MPPT circuit.
I'm pretty sure an mppt solar charge controller has to have an inductor in order to be able to boost or step down the voltage. I believe the one that you have is A pwm charge controller
It's not ideal but you could still skew the output voltage lower by replacing the single "Rx" feedback resistor with a 2-resistor voltage divider.
Not sure that would work, as the default divider is fixed at 4.2V.
They could have just brought the FB pin out directly,and let the "user" decided the voltage with a couple of external resistors,eliminating the internal ones completely.
I didn't think that the TP4056 would take as much as 8V, thought that the limit was lower. I have a small solar panel here, maybe 6 inches square. Putting it in strong sunlight I was able to measure almost 8V coming out of it, but trying for current I only got about 8mA! I'm not sure how to characterize that panel. Was thinking about feeding the output of it to a small buck converter module and then feeding that into a TP4056, do you think that'd work?
At low current it may be simpler to just dump whatever is available into the lithium cell.
Would a Diode with low VF (0.15vf)do the trick to reduce maximum charge voltage, between the +ve battery terminal and the IC BAT terminal?
I'm not sure if this is actually any better than tp4056 on the sun. Turns out tp4056 is pretty decent as cheap solar charger. Some test and comparison would be very useful
"MPPT" is like "million lumens" it just makes things sell better on all those places and of course most sellers have zero knowledge about the 99% of the 1-100 thousand things they have listed under the same account.
Would a zener in the fb make the lithium cell charge at a lower final max voltage and make cells last longer
That would just add more voltage.
Hey could you do a guide on how to use the Temp pin on these things? I'm trying to use them to build solar-powered devices that will sit on a car dash board in Canada, they'll go anywhere from +50C to -25C, and I'd rather not charge lithium ion outside of temp range. I have some 10k thermistors but I can't wrap my head around how to solder them to that temp pin and stick them to the battery, would love your input on that.
The data sheet shows the thermistor section. You need to add a thermistor and another resistor of your preferred value to get the desired temperature threshold.
Is MPPT without inductors even possible? Perhaps exchange the FB-resistor with a voltage divider allow lower cell voltages. I dont know the values of the internal divider, but if the are high than the lower resistor of the external voltage could be 100k ohm or higher. The permanet load of this resistor to the cell maybe justifiable.
You said you use bulk ink.
What printer you have ?
Epson ecotank.
can you make more video about universal main board for appliances, for example for a air conditioner, there is universal main board for every appliances you can think of now
Clive, I'm imagining building a huge inducter, like 1.5 metres circumference, maybe I could use copper pipe....
Copper pipe has been used for some big Tesla coils, but can be hard to form evenly.
You mentioned sodium cells. Local shopping app I. Philippines has them for a mere $120 for an 18650 4 pcs. Not me I say.
I think AliExpress has them at a more affordable level.
IDK but adding a resistor between gnd and battery's gnd will don't lower max charge voltage?
Welcome to the world of search and browse manipulation
R in FB-GND should work as well
Interesting charge module. I guess, one of these days you'll get some Chinese circuits to evaluate, before they go into mass production :-)
And next the CB06CRMA? charge board for the 3v ML2032 rechargeable CR2032 batteries on 3V? :)
know what would be nice? if all these solar products would include a backup usbc port to charge them, i got a solar bug zapper with a token solar panel, it is a real solar panel but i suspect you could run it for 2-3 minutes for a whole day of charging if it could even provide more than the quiescent current of the charger
fairylights with solar have ..Most have higher quiescent han the output.
It doesn't seem like it's even a PWM...
This is going to sound crazy...
Could you actually take the plastic off the chip and make a connection at the point you said...
Alternatively make the whole circuit from 'normal' sized components..
Which I assume you could raise the current handling capacity and voltage.
I'm Off-Grid and it would be nice to have a decent power USB 5? volts or now USBC.
'Make in China' not made lolz. Good Chingish
Oh soooooo close (to being good)
ADaptive Cell = ADC ? In which case this could be a hardwired through lookup table pseudo MPPT, if you fit exactly the correct number of solar cells in series on the input.
You better believe they are watching.
Can this handle 500kiloWatts of solar panels? Asking for a friend that has been looking for a credit card sized unit.
Only if sold at a high price on Facebook from some random offshore location.
I guess no low-voltage cut-off, as the later TP4056 boards have?
Not unless it was used with a DW01 and MOSFET pair.
I was really upset that this only had 150 likes then I saw that it was 8 minutes old :)
will you do a test on sodium ion cells?
I've been tempted to buy some, but I'm worried about the final bit of shipping here. The postal service can be quite militant about batteries.
why don't they put a boost converter to use all that energy coming in before the "low voltage"?
even the most expensive solar charge controllers don't do anything until 17/27 volts.
Don't charge your cells to 4.3V unless they're designed for it. That's not a safe voltage for standard 4.2V as they have an absolute max safe voltage of 4.25V. And there is no extra capacity to be gained anyway, because the battery will quickly normalize to 4.2V and turn the excess energy into heat.
Some batts are designed for 4.3V, you see them a lot in smartphones for no reason, but it isn't the norm. Thought I needed to mention that for anyone not aware.
i would test to put the max charge voltage lower is to put a 10 ohm resistor from the ground pin to ground and see if this lowers max charge
i intend to test this ordering some now
meaning dont connect ground to ground but to place a 10 ohm resistor in series with ground