What is crazy I went to Brake Plus and a off brand repair shop with actual numbers I wanted and asked them what is my Set-Back Reading, Ride Height Spec, etc and they didn't know what I was talking about. They had to read the documents I brought. Because all of the learning they forgot to properly align my car..lol. All shops will just do a Toe adjustment and send you off. Not knowing what SAI is and how it can determine damages to the steering component and frame. I advise to go in with documents showing a proper alignment and knowing the alignment numbers of your car. To not know your self or the shop is denying your car a proper alignment that you overpaid for.
Quick notes: Car pulls to where caster is more negative. Car pulls to where camber is more positive. Toe does not make car pull, only tire wear and steering wheel angle. When toe in or out tires will struggle against each other. A bad toe will cause different camber/caster which will cause pull. Also is the instructor going to a basketball match after class or endorsed by nike? :'D
currently studying for my ASE since my shop requires it now :P. I've read the book and this video was a good refresher. I'll keep going with the series!
Great video, I am currently studying for my ASE A4 & A5. And found this video very helpful. You don't currently teach any 'online' test prep courses do you? There aren't any in my area. Thanks in advance.
+McCuistian I have been working under an alignment rack for about 7mos now, & have had a couple mentors. The question I have is; after you roll-comp, then sweep Caster, do you install the brake depressor & leave the vehicle in neutral, if so why? The reason I'm asking is because I've been shown two different ways.. Thanks.
+McCuistian I have been working under an alignment rack for about 7mos now, & have had a couple mentors. The question I have is; after you roll-comp, then sweep Caster, do you install the brake depressor & leave the vehicle in neutral, if so why? The reason I'm asking is because I've been shown two different ways.. Thanks.
Conventional wisdom is that you should have the brake depressor in place anytime you don't need to turn the wheels, but many years ago I asked the Hunter Engineering guy the same question and he didn't have a clear answer. Presumably it prevents the vehicle from moving even the least little bit while you're working on it, because if it moves, the sensors become unlevel and the readings can become inaccurate. Another answer would be that the first thing you follow the instructions on the machine. Second the caster reading requires the wheels to be locked on a machine with live caster. Therefore I typically would install the brake pedal depressor after the rolling comp but before the caster sweep and I would keep it installed throughout the rest of the alignment process
+McCuistian that answer makes complete sense believe it or not, and my thoughts were the same. But the new I've been working with says "it's easier and quicker to just put it in park before sweeping caster" but my theory is it could slightly roll from putting into gear? So with that, yes use brake depressor, but also keep in neutral? And is it okay to put in park? Thanks. Also the reason I'm asking these questions is because I don't just want to have my ASE certificate, and I wanna know how to diagnose/fix and have a Full understanding of why it is the way it is. Thanks again.
Thanks. Also got question about my book isn't giving me good illustrations about toe out wear. In general does the toe out wear happens outside of the tire or inside side of the tire?
BIG Z Toe out happens all the way across - and it feathers the tread - positive camber wears the outside of the tire - negative camber wears the inside -
Don't hear any squeeking but when I jack my dodge ram at the front I always hear a popping noise as it comes off the suspension; and I wonder if that could be the upper control arm bushings, I think they need replacing.
I'm fairly new in Alignment stuff. But what will cause one wheel to have positive camber and the other wheel to have negative camber. Suspension components bent or what? How will it react on the road?
BIG Z Each wheel has its own adjustment - Negative camber on SLA suspension can be caused by weak springs. All the components should be checked for wear before adjustments are made. Positive camber doesn't typically happen by itself - it'll be the result of trauma or misadjustment.
Negative camber tends to make the car more stable when drifting and less prone to sway - think of how splaying the legs outward on a table makes it more stable and harder to turn over - now take that same table and splay the legs inward (which would be like positive caster) and you have a table that will fall over very easily. In a "drift" situation, you need all the stability you can get.
He was following shop manual procedure ... even though it wasn't necessary it was a learning experience... He tended to be kind of lazy and so I let him do the extra work
I really don't know it depends on what you're best at but I have never studied for one and I have never failed one so if you know your stuff you should pass just about any of them
Tbh I found A4, and A5 to be the easiest. More so because brakes and suspensions are more of the simple things when it comes to a car (not saying its easy, but its the easiest). Next I would say A3 AND A2, then A6 AND A7, then id do A1, A9 (If you want. I mean since you are doing engines already you might as well), and A8. Now if you wanted to go balls to the wall go ahead and get your L1. If you want to do some over the counter work go off and get your p1, and p2 on the side. And shit if you feel like it you can get your X1 too (also and easy one) but isnt really recognized in the automotive world unless you do something like Fab or work in a muffler shop but that's a whole nother world (as far as automotive REPAIR is concerned if you get where im coming from). Thats like custom fabrication stuff.
This vato is good at explaining had alot of teachings and experience one of the best suspension lesson I've had
What is crazy I went to Brake Plus and a off brand repair shop with actual numbers I wanted and asked them what is my Set-Back Reading, Ride Height Spec, etc and they didn't know what I was talking about. They had to read the documents I brought. Because all of the learning they forgot to properly align my car..lol. All shops will just do a Toe adjustment and send you off. Not knowing what SAI is and how it can determine damages to the steering component and frame. I advise to go in with documents showing a proper alignment and knowing the alignment numbers of your car. To not know your self or the shop is denying your car a proper alignment that you overpaid for.
Not "all" shops.
Quick notes: Car pulls to where caster is more negative. Car pulls to where camber is more positive. Toe does not make car pull, only tire wear and steering wheel angle. When toe in or out tires will struggle against each other. A bad toe will cause different camber/caster which will cause pull. Also is the instructor going to a basketball match after class or endorsed by nike? :'D
currently studying for my ASE since my shop requires it now :P. I've read the book and this video was a good refresher. I'll keep going with the series!
I SMELL BELL PEPPER
THE IMAGE OF THE POSITIVE AND NEGATIVE CASTER IS WRONG,
frustrating with ase test's being about 35 years out of date
Out of date?
Tried to watch, but, why did they have to sit someone where he blocked the view.
Awesome vid! Any suggestions of videos to watch for passing Brake and Lamp Adjuster Exam. I’m out here in El Monte, CA.
Great video, I am currently studying for my ASE A4 & A5. And found this video very helpful. You don't currently teach any 'online' test prep courses do you? There aren't any in my area. Thanks in advance.
Justin Thomas you can find stuff on my channel to prepare but I don't teach any online courses
+McCuistian I have been working under an alignment rack for about 7mos now, & have had a couple mentors. The question I have is; after you roll-comp, then sweep Caster, do you install the brake depressor & leave the vehicle in neutral, if so why? The reason I'm asking is because I've been shown two different ways.. Thanks.
+McCuistian I have been working under an alignment rack for about 7mos now, & have had a couple mentors. The question I have is; after you roll-comp, then sweep Caster, do you install the brake depressor & leave the vehicle in neutral, if so why? The reason I'm asking is because I've been shown two different ways.. Thanks.
Conventional wisdom is that you should have the brake depressor in place anytime you don't need to turn the wheels, but many years ago I asked the Hunter Engineering guy the same question and he didn't have a clear answer. Presumably it prevents the vehicle from moving even the least little bit while you're working on it, because if it moves, the sensors become unlevel and the readings can become inaccurate.
Another answer would be that the first thing you follow the instructions on the machine. Second the caster reading requires the wheels to be locked on a machine with live caster. Therefore I typically would install the brake pedal depressor after the rolling comp but before the caster sweep and I would keep it installed throughout the rest of the alignment process
+McCuistian that answer makes complete sense believe it or not, and my thoughts were the same. But the new I've been working with says "it's easier and quicker to just put it in park before sweeping caster" but my theory is it could slightly roll from putting into gear? So with that, yes use brake depressor, but also keep in neutral? And is it okay to put in park? Thanks.
Also the reason I'm asking these questions is because I don't just want to have my ASE certificate, and I wanna know how to diagnose/fix and have a Full understanding of why it is the way it is. Thanks again.
any tips on steering suspension test i take mine this week
Thanks. Also got question about my book isn't giving me good illustrations about toe out wear. In general does the toe out wear happens outside of the tire or inside side of the tire?
BIG Z Toe out happens all the way across - and it feathers the tread - positive camber wears the outside of the tire - negative camber wears the inside -
Don't hear any squeeking but when I jack my dodge ram at the front I always hear a popping noise as it comes off the suspension; and I wonder if that could be the upper control arm bushings, I think they need replacing.
Could be
@@McCuistian thanks for the reply !
I'm fairly new in Alignment stuff. But what will cause one wheel to have positive camber and the other wheel to have negative camber. Suspension components bent or what? How will it react on the road?
BIG Z Each wheel has its own adjustment - Negative camber on SLA suspension can be caused by weak springs. All the components should be checked for wear before adjustments are made. Positive camber doesn't typically happen by itself - it'll be the result of trauma or misadjustment.
Why do drift cars use negative camber vs positive?
Negative camber tends to make the car more stable when drifting and less prone to sway - think of how splaying the legs outward on a table makes it more stable and harder to turn over - now take that same table and splay the legs inward (which would be like positive caster) and you have a table that will fall over very easily. In a "drift" situation, you need all the stability you can get.
McCuistian 🙌
thanks
Hey brother can you do one on T2
why would he pull the strut to do a pt cruiser timing belt that is a lot of extra unnecessary work
He was following shop manual procedure ... even though it wasn't necessary it was a learning experience... He tended to be kind of lazy and so I let him do the extra work
I CAN SURE RELATE TO THAT SORRY FOR BEING A SMART ASS
What school is this?
The school I retired from in May of 2019 - There's Different instructor now.
what is easiest a1 through a8?
I really don't know it depends on what you're best at but I have never studied for one and I have never failed one so if you know your stuff you should pass just about any of them
The one you think is the easiest will be the one you have to take 2 or 3 times lol.
Tbh I found A4, and A5 to be the easiest. More so because brakes and suspensions are more of the simple things when it comes to a car (not saying its easy, but its the easiest). Next I would say A3 AND A2, then A6 AND A7, then id do A1, A9 (If you want. I mean since you are doing engines already you might as well), and A8. Now if you wanted to go balls to the wall go ahead and get your L1. If you want to do some over the counter work go off and get your p1, and p2 on the side. And shit if you feel like it you can get your X1 too (also and easy one) but isnt really recognized in the automotive world unless you do something like Fab or work in a muffler shop but that's a whole nother world (as far as automotive REPAIR is concerned if you get where im coming from). Thats like custom fabrication stuff.
Lmao @ 17:17