Nice job,, well made vedio,, I have 6 atlas lathes I've restored was looking for a Atlas horizontal mill but came across a small number 0 Sheldon horizontal mill and glad I did, in great working condition, 20 cutters and end Mill holder,, all no 9 brown and Sharp taper,, love it. All for 300 dollars.
Great video. I need to make a few of these myself for my Atlas mill. I'm curious tho... I noticed your gauge moved about 5 thou when you went from right to left, then back, in the video (at 5:31) even though you had the taper attachment set. My lathe does the same. There must be some play somewhere in the carriage, but I can't figure it out. Any thoughts? Also, I would have finished the end-mill bore after 12:17. It's already running true in the spindle, then flip it and finish the threads for the drawbar at the very end. Thanks again for sharing.
Good idea! Right after I made the video, the holder got stuck in the spindle and I really had to whale on the end of it with a brass rod to knock it free. It's amazing how well a Morse taper will grip something.
That is funky. Why not use the MT2 tapered collet sets. I do for my M head Bridgeport. They are very affordable. I also have a MT2 adapter for ER 30 collets.
I use MT2 in my M head and in my Kearney and Trecker midgetmill as well.. They hold like a bear for sure and with a collet,, you are closer to the spindle bearings for added rigidity....Cheers from Louisiana, Mike
@Liberty Cave Thanks, I'll have to give them a try. With a horizontal mill, there are occasions when you need the extended reach of an end mill holder like this though, so I think there's a use for both types.
@@MrHarvard88 An end mill held in an MT2 collet is too short for some milling operations on the Atlas mill. I have MT2 collets and end-mill holders and use them both depending on the work piece position. I made end mill holders that screw onto the spindle - another option.
@@skypiratesrcclub6436 Yep, that's what I was trying to say in my reply. I hadn't though about making a holder that screws on to the spindle, but I may make one like that for shell end mills.
Tiny boring bar to finish the hole will make it more true than a reamer... Reamer will tend to follow the drilled hole that can have runout in it.....Cheers from Louisiana....Mike
I wanted to use a boring bar, but all the ones I saw that were small enough to bore a 3/8" hole only had a reach of about 1", not long enough for this project.
@@MrHarvard88 It is difficult to accurately bore a small diameter hole. Small boring bars lack rigidity. Best to bore a few mils small then ream to the final diameter.
What a super idea from Mr. Pete using the taper on the reamer that way!
Good work !
Good video. Good Luck, Rick
Nice job,, well made vedio,, I have 6 atlas lathes I've restored was looking for a Atlas horizontal mill but came across a small number 0 Sheldon horizontal mill and glad I did, in great working condition, 20 cutters and end Mill holder,, all no 9 brown and Sharp taper,, love it. All for 300 dollars.
Very nice arbor. Great work. Thank you for sharing!
Thank you! I appreciate the comment.
Great video. I need to make a few of these myself for my Atlas mill. I'm curious tho... I noticed your gauge moved about 5 thou when you went from right to left, then back, in the video (at 5:31) even though you had the taper attachment set. My lathe does the same. There must be some play somewhere in the carriage, but I can't figure it out. Any thoughts?
Also, I would have finished the end-mill bore after 12:17. It's already running true in the spindle, then flip it and finish the threads for the drawbar at the very end. Thanks again for sharing.
Excellent work Sir.....
Thank you! I'm a fan of your channel and have watched several of your videos on your Atlas lathe and milling machine. Cheers!
Very nice video. When I make holders I drill the draw bar hole all the way through so that if a tool gets stuck, I can drift it out. Just a thought.
Good idea! Right after I made the video, the holder got stuck in the spindle and I really had to whale on the end of it with a brass rod to knock it free. It's amazing how well a Morse taper will grip something.
That is funky. Why not use the MT2 tapered collet sets. I do for my M head Bridgeport. They are very affordable. I also have a MT2 adapter for ER 30 collets.
I use MT2 in my M head and in my Kearney and Trecker midgetmill as well.. They hold like a bear for sure and with a collet,, you are closer to the spindle bearings for added rigidity....Cheers from Louisiana, Mike
@Liberty Cave Thanks, I'll have to give them a try. With a horizontal mill, there are occasions when you need the extended reach of an end mill holder like this though, so I think there's a use for both types.
@@MrHarvard88 An end mill held in an MT2 collet is too short for some milling operations on the Atlas mill. I have MT2 collets and end-mill holders and use them both depending on the work piece position. I made end mill holders that screw onto the spindle - another option.
@@skypiratesrcclub6436 Yep, that's what I was trying to say in my reply. I hadn't though about making a holder that screws on to the spindle, but I may make one like that for shell end mills.
I like your style! Why buy something when you can make it yourself. Nice video
Thanks! 👍
Tiny boring bar to finish the hole will make it more true than a reamer... Reamer will tend to follow the drilled hole that can have runout in it.....Cheers from Louisiana....Mike
I wanted to use a boring bar, but all the ones I saw that were small enough to bore a 3/8" hole only had a reach of about 1", not long enough for this project.
@@MrHarvard88 That's when you get creative with hi speed steel or a piece of hi speed silver brazed onto a tiny shank....Cheers
@@MrHarvard88 It is difficult to accurately bore a small diameter hole. Small boring bars lack rigidity. Best to bore a few mils small then ream to the final diameter.