SETTING PREHUNG DOORS - Important Keys to Success
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- čas přidán 15. 07. 2024
- In the video we discuss keys to successfully setting prehung doors. I talk about some of the key things to watch for that often aren't taught or talked about.
0:00 Intro
0:31 Shim Perfectly Perpendicular to Door Plane
1:20 Jamb Master for 8' Doors
2:07 Shim Location
4:08 Save Time Not Cutting Down Doors
4:24 Placing Door In Shimmed Opening
5:54 A Trick To Make Your Life Easier
7:02 Dealing With Cross Legged Framing
7:57 Setting Strike Jamb Height
8:38 Adjusting Door Stop/Strike Side
9:28 Importance of Pre-Drywall Framing Adjustments
10:02 Be Strategic In How Much You Nail
10:56 Never Assume, Constantly Check Strike & Margins
11:52 Screws Are Essential for Heavy Doors
15:29 Understand How Gravity Affects the Hang Over Time
17:52 Hinge Barrel Slop - Extremely Important To Understand
19:04 How Gravity Opens & Closes Hinge Side Margins
20:29 Problem Area - Upper Strike Margin
22:57 Minimum Margin Spacing
25:04 Conclusion
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This link is the stepped welding gauge that I often use to check margins, reveals, etc. Enjoy!
amzn.to/3CkpGRH - Stepped Welding Gauge
I also see I'm still having some issues with the video quality. I will try and get that figured out. I think I have a frame rate or render setting that is not jiving.
That screw behind the hinge is next level, genius!
Best trim carpenter on CZcams, hands down!
I never get tired of learning and boy do I learn a lot from you. Thank you sir
Great video, Spencer! I have been explaining the physics of doors to customers for years and years. It's nice to see someone who understands these principles and tries to counteract the creeping effect of gravity, humidity and manufacturing variants during the one chance you have to get it right. The Jambmaster is the bomb. Love to see someone who is passionate about what they do for a living. Thanks!
Amazing professional teacher and carpenter.
Between the hack framers, and the awful door manufacturers it's so hard to get a well hung pre-hung door these days. We usually have to deal with misaligned mortises, awful hinges that were installed crooked, and staples that were carelessly shot into jams that split the jams, or protrude into very much unwanted space. When I build my own jams everything goes so much smoother.
Totally Agree! Back in 2000 I stop using millwork interior pre-hungs. We spent more time fixing the hacks then to hang on site. So since then I use slabs and blank jambs. No more misaligned jamb heads, staples showing through, cocked hinge screws, and door binding.
So true
agreed.
Rough framing is called rough framing for a reason they don't get to pick their wood so badly warped or crowned 2x has to be used giving the reason you frame a door or window 2in bigger and yes you are correct about door manufacturing its horrible I've had so many problems in the last few years with interior doors especially the hinges took me awhile to figure the some hinges were actually bent and needed slightly tweaked too
Nailed it!
Great vid Spencer! I would love to see you do an install without the jambmaster as many of us won’t have that tool.
Anyway…love your channel! Thx,
This guy is one of the best I e ever seen. Id be very happy if I had a fraction of his skill.
My new go-to guy for all tricks and tips for hanging doors and stairs steps and trimming .
Excellent .... It's great you took a break and came back this strong with all the education and insight. Hope your week is starting off perfectly just like the results on all the projects
Love watching this guys videos, so we’ll done and i also love how critical he is about his work with tolerance that Pipefitter gap gauge is for setting the gap on a full penetration weld, using it as a set gauge is genius.
Thank you so much for sharing your methods. I will definitely be using that scrap piece of ply in the top corner to keep the door in place. Also so helpful to know which way the door is likely to shift over time.
I really appreciate the time which you put on this video and I actually learn a lot of points and hints. They way you covered all the margin topics around the main topic was very thorough and detailed specially when you addressed id there is a gap between the door and the stopper on the jamb and what would be solution. You are very expressive and speak about the possible concerns gently and comprehensively. I liked, checking and checking and rechecking, you also covered the potential issue with the bottom gap between the door and the floor, it might slope up or down as the door swings. I really appreciate this short but comprehensive video full of helpful points. Thank you kindly.
Spencer is accurate on his door hanging process. I would still add a 2" screw through the jamb hinge at the hole closest to the stop making sure you hit the stud behind. I usually wait until the painters have removed and reinstalled the slab before I set the long screw. I do it at the same time as I install the door handle. Reason for this is that the shorter screws have a tendency to fail in the cheaper FJP jambs used in painted applications. It also give me a chance to make sure the painters re-hinged the doors properly so I don't get a call back on a rubbing door.
You do a great job. I specialize in doors and it is extremely rare for a door manufacturer to have perfect reveals straight from the factory. I use old cereal box paper to shim behind hinges to make perfect reveals. You're attention to detail is awesome, most people hanging doors in my experience just slap them up without taking time to have great reveals or "margins" as you say. I'm from Florida and your comments on humidity show that you take many precautions to make things great. I had an excellent teacher ,who was actually from Indiana, teach me well. I enjoy your videos sir, keep them coming.
Used your video on two sets of stairs and it worked perfectly. Thanks again 😊
Great video, just a comment about adding screws for heavy doors. I experienced having a door installed with minimum fasteners, and someone who decided that adding a hanger/hooks to the door was a good thing. Nice idea, but it added a LOT of unexpected weight to the door, and the original nails failed. So even with lighter less durable doors, a few minutes and $1 more in fasteners makes a difference. Thanks again for a great video!
Another great video Spencer! As a homeowner and "DYIer" many of the the tips you provide have been very useful. 😊👍
Fabulous tips. So much fun to watch. Learned so much.
Plethora of great tips for anyone. Thanks for sharing Spencer. 👊
Excellent! As usual, thank you for your time.
Comprehensive! I have also learned that I can cheat with a screw that does not run through a shim. Pulling the jamb to accommodate a slight irregularity in the door, itself. Thanks for the video. Jambmaster 👍
It's one thing for me to comprehend what Spencer is saying and be able to apply it. But when he breaks it down and simplifies it enough that i can translate and teach my guys the same the same descriptions ànd details, it makes life better...
I truly appreciate what this guy gives us. From a fellow Hoosier and northeast Indiana native, me and my guys appreciate all you expose us to
I couldn’t agree more. Well said, Sir
Well said
Another great lesson and vid on trim carpentry. Thanks Spencer!
Really liked that block up top. I do a little different with two blocks opposite side of the door. Then pop a couple of shims at the head. So ready to try out jambmaster
You’re a freaking well of information and knowledge, thank you for so much learning and help me so much with my projects!
Spencer, I really enjoy your videos. I have been a general contractor for over 30 years and I wish there were more tradesmen like you. I see a lot of myself in your workmanship and I can really appreciate your skills.
Just here soaking up the info. Thank you for making me a better carpenter!
Love how you explain the little details and tips that make a job a little easier
You were well taught. I've been using most of your tricks and techniques for a very long time. Now retired and teaching trim carpentry. Keep up the good work. Oh BTW I have my students watch you videos.
You are very correct on your door installation i enjoy all your teachings.
What a great carpenter,bravo!
A true professional!
Not a pro like you but I still bought a Jamb Master. Thank you for sharing all your knowledge!
Brilliant tip with the corner block.
Good points and good ideas for hanging the big 8-ft solid Walnut beasts.
I always open the door and throw a 3/4 block under the door when I'm on hardwood, or two three quarter blocks if I'm hanging over carpet.
Then shim that block to plumb my door.
Thank you for all the tips!
The Jamb Master 'J' . This reminded me of my lath instructor... very concise, easy to follow and monotone... Then, like Louie, 20mins in drops some in his humor; "Stepped pipe gauge thingy-majigger 🤨🤣🤣🤣. I took as much trades school stuff as I could in H.S. I chose Construction; TPH was I thinking... 🧐😵💫
another great tip, never thought about the humidity.
Thanks Spencer, always learn something new watching your videos. The other thing I consider when allowing for my margins is whether or not the jamb is pre-primed. Where I am in New Zealand the jambs are not typically pre-primed and the margins close up slightly after painting.
If u cut a door, do you seal it back up again ( paint it) I’ve had bottoms of doors delaminate/splay on me , Auckland, NZ
Amen brother!! On the door manufacture’s head jamb ALWAYS being too short. I fight on every door I set
I just watched this video on tv and could not comment, so I had to open my iPad to do so. I must say, your video was absolutely the best on CZcams. I watched many of your other videos, but you really outdone yourself on this one. Great video, outstanding channel. Thank you for posting and taking the time to educate us on the finer points of door setting. Cheers from Canada Spencer.
Glad it was helpful! And thanks for the feedback!
Thanks! Very useful video for me.
Thx for all the vids and teaching tips and tricks .great work thx
Great video, thanks for sharing. Love your videos.
Great job !
Very good info going out right there. Awesome tips brother
Thanks brother, 😊 I really appreciate the time and expert tips
Those are the ideal openings to hang doors. I have NEVER been lucky enough to get anything close to that.
I really appreciate your investment of time to teach us. Good job!
Fantastic as always buddy.
Thanks for sharing this knowledges.
So great Lewis. You set doors sweeter than my exterior system
Great video, thanks 😊 👍
As usual, great video
It will be good to see how you align strikers
Good job explaining
lol, was just looking for this video yesterday!! Thanks Spencer
Not sure how much you filmed but THANK YOU for all of the amazing education. I was hanging on to every word haha🙏🏽.
Awesome video thanks that clears up so many mysteries of why my gaps are so hard to get and to keep and it’s true the manufacturers make things harder. I thought it was because I was a stupid elevator guy. Hinge barrel slop the humidity thing these things are baffling until somebody tells u why? I wish I would have seen this a few months ago
I used to shoot for 3/16 and I guess I just struggled seemingly never getting over my “OCD”?
Fighting if the HVAC is on , where they or the or my GC who I am sub-out to had the trimmed dropped (this time on a very expensive 5 Thou ft home right on the garage floor w/ all my solid slabs one Hickory , multiple closet doors by pass solid core ; all standing in the back of the garage up against a 3rd garage door???? In 100 plus weather?
So I changed to strong 3/16-1/4” whatever I could hit and maintain!
Plus I hv a screw pattern I use at the end! 4 of them w/a 5th middle hole top hinge (painters are made aware)!
And lastly I added 3.5”x3.5” plywood shims 1/4,3/8,1/8,1/2,5/8 all in a 5 gallon bucket ! Then I use your shim jig maker for my big cabinet saw and make cedar shims 8” long!
I incorporated so much of your system more than anything I want to say “I appreciate you brother” ; thank you for all your help for pro-carpenters who are tradesmen and tradeswomen !
Just can not Thk u enough!
This was another great one!
Maybe once again go over the fine points of craftsman style window!
Other than the 3 piece maybe a decorative top with complimentary 1x6 and 1x1 under it??
I watch your one and use the Sheetrock screw to level out the sides top and bottom ? However R u still using this ?
Ect.,.
Thk u Brother!
Never quit!
Never bow to laziness !
Buy good tools!
JD
Hey Spence, Have you ever done a video on this subject, without the jam master? I think 99% of your followers probably don’t have one of those.
Not yet. I hope to though.
In our new build 26 yrs ago, Out of 11 interior doors , 7 were hung jacked, four did not latched without pushing. Three hinge fun 😮
Very good. Larry Katz's "This is Carpentry" you tube channel has some excellent door setting videos too. More old school.
@25:45 There are so many sophomoric jokes, but I'll contain myself :) @22:26, that doohickey is [edit: Spencer posted the link to amzn] Thanks for another great video. PS for any newcomers, Spencer has in-depth video on how to use that Jamb Master.
Would love to see a video of you adjusting the opening during the framing stage.
Haven't watched the whole video yet, just skipped through it for now, but I can't agree more with you on the too short of a header from manufactures. The margins need to be larger (20:30) especially on painted doors & jambs in my opinion. Cant wait to watch the complete video
Excellent Video Spencer as per your eye for detail.....When working with timber frames it can easier to hang doors if you are in charge of the Timber Frame (that is if you put the internal timber studwork up in the first place) Have worked on many different internal wall methods Timber/Metal/Brick/Block etc. Remember many many moons ago trying to hang doors to Brick/blockwork pre-fitted door frame. Bricklayers /Carpenters must have been been pissed or drunk (could have been a Friday when they fitted the frames) . Main contractor would not let us change fix door frames because they where plastered right up to the frame what a nightmare could have applied for a job in the Cooperage / Whiskey Barrell makers after working on that particular construction site Door frames where like Whiskey Barrels shaped in or out ....Door frames became a challenge for sure. Have seen many like that on block brick walls. well Done Spencer another great video.
This guy's hired!! I don't care if he's working for the jamb master people.bes video
Live the very technical terms that we all understand. Like “gappage” and “wiggling” hinges
You are awesome! You should have wayyy more views and subscribers!
Great video!! I would like to see how u hang a door when the framing is not plum and twisted
I'm a union trimmer but i never had the chance to hang a door yet and always wanted to learn about it and do that. This video was very insightful. Appreciate the tips and tricks though Spencer. Should give me an edge when I do install em. Thanks!
The youg man does a nice job.
What’s a Union trimmer
You forgot at least one thing. When the door and jambes are painted you also lose some reveal to the paint thickness, especially when you have paint buildup on the edges of the doors. It can cause the hinge side of the door to bind against the jamb. I Try and leave about 3/32- 1/8" reveal all the way around.
Yeah, this. Worked with stain grade for so long, that when it was a spec project with primed doors not painted, set my reveals to stain grade, not paint grade. That one hurt.
Solid video and advise. Covered a ton of information for those new to setting doors. Recently did/doing an older house reno and when old framing or new lumber has a bow/changes do you have adjustment tricks when that happens? Hunger bending/etc
In my zone, I like to keep a little play in the shims. Extreme cold and hot humid days causes the framing around the door to move around.
You could do a video on brain surgery and I think I could follow you well enough that I would have the confidence to perform. Thank you for your patience and not missing a point where there may be a doubt or questions. Great video.
☝️😎👍
That hinge demonstration socked me, i even went down to my garage to find some hinges to check. I found 6 hinges, 5 of them had 0 play, 1 of them had no rattle but under stress you could nick a fingernail. I do a lot of renovation work so ill try keep an eye out for doors that failed and the relation to screws although most doors i find are screwed even with slotted head screws. My gut kind of tells me misalignment over time is more related to framing or foundations settling or seasonal expansion/contraction/moisture.
i actually see quite a few doors move from lateral movement, im guessing its somewhat related but the doors live most of their life open. The easiest fix being to shift the bottom hinge out a little bit. Its pretty much always moving the bottom hinge out.
Just in time!
A lot of great tips in this video! I know you deal with new construction, but do you have any experience/tips for fixing old doors that are not closing/latching properly? When doors are cased and painted and caulked, so you are limited on what tricks you can do? I do mostly new installs, but occasionally I am asked to fix old doors.
Great Class Amigo I Like That Name Jam Master Great Tip Nicely Done 😉👍🏽🪚📐📝🔨
Thanks
One more video worth watching👍👍Spencer I hope your private life is going well don’t let small things bother you everything will work aut 👍👍👍👍
It's been a great summer with a lot of GOLF! Life is good.
thanks
You can also order number 9 tapered screws with the various finishes that are 3 1/2 long. I use them in all of the deepest hinge holes which saves taking them off and risk splitting the jamb if you don't predrill. On entry doors you can countersink them under the weatherstrip easy enough if you have trouble catching the cripple stud.
The reason I don't do that is because the painters remove them and don't know where to put them back. And when the painter removes them it can negate the adjustment you were trying to make.
@@InsiderCarpentry Makes sense to me. I don't do new construction often so I would have never thought of that.
try a dead blow hammer. Used a lot in the automotive industry. The hammer head is hollow and filled with small ball bearings. When you swing there is minimal damage, no rebound. Harbor freight has a nice set.
Very good attention to detail and showing us how to get it also! Where did your stepped measuring tool come from? Where to buy it?
Best, best
Jamb master I need to try
shout out to Indiana!
Screw behind the hinge....genius.
I approve this message ;-)
Very informative as always. I haven’t searched, my apologies, but do you have examples of mitigating or repairing issues you may encounter which you’ve outlined. Each step your results are exactly what you wanted. I would gather the jamb master (and obviously your experience and knowledge of physics and humidity) is the key here, no? What can amateurs or non-production folks like me do to recreate a jamb master type effect?
Spencer , Going to check out the jamb master slick tool. Want to get your thoughts on a big remodeling problem is the twisted jack stud when hanging a door.
Is there an adjustable shim on the market sounds crazy but that's what is need for a perfect hang ? Total agree on the head jamb being to short !
Never seen the jambmaster. Interesting though. I typically bang out like 8 or 9 of the 8' thick doors in one day doing it old school. Wonder of the jambmaster will speed things up🤔
Hey Spencer .... Have you ever considered doing a Live Feed to answer questions from your Follower's ?
I been complaining bout the head jambs for years. Its usually easier to pound over strike jamb before u install it
Another tool that works really well with getting your jamb perfect is a crossline laser level. Set your laser line to on the edge of the jamb and you can see all the little bits of bow in your jamb that you have to shim out.
I've tried that but never had good results. If there is any warp or twist in the door it makes the laser ineffective. To me it's easier just to set them traditionally.
@@InsiderCarpentry I get what you're saying. I do try to square the studs and jamb to the sheetrock first before I do any laser lines/ shims. I bought a +$500 model crossline LLvl (bosch gll3-330cg) a year ago when I was doing marine construction but you have to purchase 3 accessories to make them useable: 1 receiver to detect the line in sunlight 2 telescoping pole to connect the Llvl to move it up/down 3 high precision manual rotation stage that you connect the Llvl to that gives you very fine control spin so you can line your laser up on points a long way away. You dont need a receiver for interior work but the other 2 are critical. Who do you purchase a Jamb Master through?
Another thing I liked was to not have the door stops applied at the manufacturer. I was always taking them off to adjust. I didn't order the doors but was always screwing with them.
along the top margin, along the drywall and the frame of the door, there is quite a difference in how the two edges meet up. It looks to be 1/8" (or more) where the drywall is proud of the door frame. Is that something your take care of prior to setting the door into place? Do you line the front jam, that is exposed to the hallway, flush with the drywall? Do you center the door frame in the rough opening (front to back) then hide any isses with the casing?
i just swapped out all the doors in 4000sf house for 8ftrs and did very nearly the same thing. I dont have that fancy jammaster. but i managed