Just had this exact same issue on my 2012 a6. Soot on exhaust, burning smell in cabin. And a chuffing noise at idle. Managed to pull the faulty injector out with some light assistance from a slide hammer as there wasnt much space to get leveage in with anything else. New copper washer in and problem solved. Ordered a full set of washers and bolts and will replace all when these arrive. On 175k miles at the moment. Old washer fully blown out on one side andwas abit of a faff to retreive the old one out of the bore so some long narrow picks definitely came in handy. Much appreciated video and straightforward fix for £20 in parts.
2013 Touareg TDI, 135K miles, had one seal fail with similar symptoms of oil splooge. Replaced all six seals (kit) and new stretch bolts. Cheap and easy.
Very professional and informative. I had been told my manifold needed replacing (2012 A7 3.0 TDI). But the black residue, ticking and hissing is exactly as shown here. The tell tale for me was your comment about the port to exhaust any combustion that blows past the copper seal. Just saved me a world of pain on a job that may not need doing. But the injectors very much do need sorting. I also have a exhaust smell in the cabin. But this looks like it’s from the exhausted combustion. Great video!
Thank you for sharing this video. I had strong smoke smelling in my 2013 Treg cockpit. The VW dealer tighten the exhaust manifold bolts, but it doesnt solve the problem. Next VW diagnosis was "burned plastic on exhaust manifold" is the root cause of the smelling. After some weeks searching in internet and youtube I found your video. I bought new seals and change them in a multibrand workshop. Problem solved. Again, Thank you very much !!!
Thank you for this video. Just got my first injector out. The slide hammer is definitely a useful piece of equipment highly recommend to anyone considering this job. Get the proper socket to remove the diesel lines from the injector.
Fabulous clear CZcams guide: the best and I've watched loads. I have a Cayenne Diesel, same engine and have just bought a scan tool which shows massive injection quantity deviation (650mg/str) on two injectors, so I am now ready to pull them out for a look. Strangely I have no fault codes.
Thanks, got 2007 A6 allroad 3.0 tdi with the same ticking noise. has been doing that for a good few months and couldnt work it out. Booked it in for fuel injector washer replacement. Cheers for that!!!
Outstanding video and thanks for showing the relief port too. I was really struggling to understand how a leaking injector was causing an exhaust smell/leak on my left cylinder bank. Makes better sense now and an easy fix. Is there any need to bleed the fuel rails after reinstalling them? Thanks again!
Brilliant detail, and I probably owe you a few £'s. I recited item by item to my VW main dealer who was trying to charge to remove the cylinder head from my wife's Touareg.
incredible video, I have this problem on my 07 2.7TDI, I first noticed a fuel smell in the cabin sometimes, have had a look and have that black 'lava' like stuff on my manifold. I didnt realise it was this, so thank you very much! My car has done 205k miles, unless there is an actual problem, there is no reason why my injectors should need replacing? Going to do this DIY. Thanks again.
I got a 1st gen v6 3.0. code bmk. Do you know it it has that escape port on the cyl head? Good video, I've spotted a injector deviation on cyl 3 and 4 (-2mg). Might go for a injector reseal too.
Great video. I have the same problem and have already gotten the appropriate seals and tools. The question for me is, how did you bleed the diesel line again? Is this only possible with VCDS?
hi mate was there a ticking noise more noticeable when cold starting ? as i have the same mess/grime on the side of my cylinder and can sort of here the ticking noise through your video ?
Great tutorial I just did mine but snapped the return hose clip so had to replace the hose back to the banjo bolt on the fuel rail any idea what torque this should be set too? I called the main dealer and they won’t tell me!!
Glad I find this video and I hope I can get an answer from you as I have an audi a8 3.0 tdi 2014 engine code CTBA On the left side as you open the bonnet, injectors 1and 2 appears to be wet .. I mean the area around and I think that the seals (copper washer are gone) The question is and I couldn't find the answer nowhere What is the OEM part number for that washers and the o ring on the body of the injector and also the number for that little oring on top of the injector ? I am really desperate to find that numbers so I can order all these parts. Thank you! Also a very great video, everything on point!!! 👍👍👍
Have you ever seen one of these where the copper washer was completely obliterated? I just did cylinder 3 yesterday on one that i bought cheap, the injector bolt was actually loose and the washer was completely gone. Car has 250 000 km. I was kind of nervous that i dropped it into the cylinder head but i guess not.
Hey ! Thanks for the video! Wonder if you can advise me- I have a b7 A4 avant 3.0 tdi Quattro that makes an almost hissing or hashhh sound when accelerating and then stops when car comes to a stop at the lights etc, performance seems fine but the sound is annoying and cornering as I first thought it was coming from the ac heater system but that’s all working fine and off when this happens, hope you can advise me on this? Cheers
Hi,great video which I will be following at the wkend. I started looking into this as I had a diesel smell in the cabin,I've got the same problem as in your video but I also have a pool of fuel sat on top of the engine! I've checked as far as I can without removing anything for obvious split pipes etc but I'm concerned it could be more,I'm quite practical so I'm not afraid to get stuck I and romce what I have to, ut any ideas would be greatly appreciated 👍
Hey there thanks for this video! Is it needed/recommended to change the tappet gasket as well? My mechanic is asking me to find a new one but I can't find it
Hi, great video it helped me figure out I had the same problem, 4 of 6 seals failed, injector 5 didn’t have a washer or o ring on it no idea where they went. Anyway my question is considering the seats were In bad shape with rings in the alloy where the washer sits, which I ended up taking more material than you would need to normally to get it flat, have you seen them that bad where you e had to ream up to a mm to get the seat flat?
Great video ms I my 2014 q7 3.0tdi has exactly this happening, getting worse noticeably last few days. I can't get it to a garage for a couple of day, will it cause any damage?
Hey, but I didn't understood is there some rubber seals inside? Ti separate leak. Should be, but you use wire brush to clean. And also I see something like oil seals on top of the valve cover. This should be replaced also I guess? If injectors are naked inside? Edit. I saw at the end that injectors have own inner seals
While cleaning out how do you stop debris from the injector bore entering the cylinder from the injector hole in the cylinder head? I'd like to do this job but worried about debris contamination.
Hi I have a Volkswagen Touareg 2011 and it does the same noise took it to mechanic and he changed the injector seals but is the same noise again after that I got new injector and still the same noise but also smoke comes out of the injector now
Great job with the video! Do you know what size socket is needed to take the injectors apart to remove the nozzle? This is regarding a Q5 TDI 3.0 TDI CPNB engine code. The injectors look identical to the ones in the video. Thanks!
Thanks. If you take apart a piezo injector, it will need calibration afterwards. This is something only for a diesel fuel injection shop. If you mess with this stuff and get it wrong, the engine not running would be your best outcome. If it runs, it may run away, or hydrolock a cylinder. Not worth it in my opinion unless you are simply studying the insides, not to reuse the injector.
Pop a fine rod down (I used a welding rod) just poking through the hole and then slide the copper washer down the rod, rounded edge facing down. It will seat fairly nicely and cant flip over or onto its side etc. There is a void near the top of the injector port that would be very easy for things like the copper washer to slide off the injector and down there and then well you aint getting it back easily.
Hi! Great video, thank you! I have same problem now. I'm ordered seals. Just question, when I put injection back how can I make sure seals stay on? Are you use some special for that? Thank you very much!
Hello there, thank you for the video. Before starting the job, does the fuel system need to be depressurised before removing the fuel lines? And is the system self bleeding when the job is completed? Thanks again!
Great video! What would the cost be approximately to replace an injector? Do they come as a set if all six need doing? Also.. when do they likely fail? 100k miles plus? Thanks again :)
Hi, thank you to share this video it is really very helpful. I did a head cover PCV valve cleaning therefore I had to removed the injectors (2013 3.0 CDUC engine, 245HP). After 5K km I found the same type of leak you presented. I am scratching my head because I did everything according to Audi service procedure. Interestingly the procedure not asks to repace the injector screw (WHT004923B). The probably reason is because the screw torque is 14Nm and no additional angle of torque. What type of engine have you serviced?
@@FourRingsAuto Sorry not to be able to recognise first time the engine type you gave in the description field. I am in crossfire. I have a 2013 Porsche Cayenne 3.0 TDI. The engine is produced by Audi, engine code is CRCA (not CDUC I mentioned earlier). I bought the service procedures from Porsche. It clearly states the support screw torque of the injector is 14Nm and no need to replace. Interestingly even installing a new injector the srcew is not on the replaceable item's list. The screw installed in the car is steel screw, The other side: checked today Audi elsawin service procedure for the CRCA engine. It states the support screw tightening first 6Nm than 90 degree. The screw should be replaced evey time (reinstall used or install new). I doubt Porsche modified this part of the engine therefore the question is who is right? Do the steel screw 14Nm torque is the same as the alu screw torque with 6Nm + 90degree? First I will check with Audi whether the WHT004923B screw is alu or steel screw. If steel than it is a bit strange because angle torque is used with alu screws usually. On the other hand there is example to use both type of screw with different torque on a part, for example the water pump: alu 3Nm +90degree, steel 10Nm. I do not think the steel screw can be tightened more. It is a 6mm bolt, do not know the actual grade of it. 14 Nm is between the 9.8 - 10.9 grade as a maximum torque. For grade 12.9 the max torque is 19,9Nm. Other notes: I have leaking on cylinder 1-3 bank only. I have partially removed the charged air alu pipe to check the cylinder head cover sealing and it is OK, no leaking.
I like your detailed response! I can't say for sure about if the bolt is different. I have only dealt with the issue on audi and vw so far, as diesel cayennes, macans, panamera, are less common here. I have always replaced the bolts and torqued to 6nm plus 90 degrees rotation. I can't tell you for sure if the bolt is alloy or steel. But even a lot of steel bolts are torque to yield/ stretch bolts. It would be strange if they had changed the injector bolts, but it is good info to know and I'm interested to find out about it.
@@FourRingsAuto Hi, one question not related to the topic: Do the PCV valve in the valve cover serviceable - replaceable? The parts catalog audi.7zap.com/en/rdw/audi+q7/aq7/2013-675/1/103-103055/ designates as item 25 for this but there is no item 25 in the part list. Checked the cup and was not able to figure out how to remove the it without damaging the cover. It seem to be pressed to the neck of the cover. Any idea?
So expansive the injectors... I have change x6 with new. The heart of the engine with the pump HP, after the repair driving my car is really more pleasant. I have the old injectors to sale if someone is interested with...
Hi there,this is a very good video on injector leaks,,I have a audi a4 3.0 tdi (b7),,just wondering if that rubber ring fails,the one that's half way down the injector,,will it cause the oil to leak out the vent? If it does i think i have found my problem lol
It could cause that yes. But they only usually fail if the injector has previously been removed and the seal not replaced, or the copper washer at the bottom is allowing combustion past that is melting the seal.
after removing the injector whos retaining bolt turned out to be finger tight i found there was no copper washer? could the washer have fallen off into the engine whilst it was being pulled out, the seat looks clean but i cant see any impression on the bottom of the injector
Burnt away is usually the case. The bolt is loose because it's torqued against the washer. When the washer burns away, the injector is then able to move slightly and the bolt is then loose.
Do you think leaking injectors can damage DPF? Or have negative influence to emisions, smoke etc. I have a similar problem, but it happens only when engine is cold. Also i e carbon deposits in exhaust. I clean it, but after while its black again. Thank you, great video btw.
Going to do seals on an 2007 A4 same engine but it has cover plates around the injectors with 4 cap screws not clamps with one bolt? Also Toyota and Hyundai 2012 on have venting outside cam cover for leaky injectors
Im doing the same job, after replacing one faulty injector, Im now getting a P2149 error code when I accelerate with moderate throttle. Do I need to go into the computer and program the new injectors or do I have another issue that I'll need to trouble shoot?
Great video! I'm experiencing the same problem. Injector 6 seal needs replacing. When i remove the injector to replace the seal will the injector need re-coding? I have a VW Touareg 2010
Awesome video! I’m capable of doing this quite easily but want to get a slide hammer, anyone know which one will actually work? I can’t seem to find a direct link or answer anywhere…
Does each injectors pressure relief port exit at a different place? I have the black goo (looks like melted plastic, but crumbles like charcoal) in one place on my exhaust manifold. When running exhaust gasses only come out at that one spot. Does that mean only one injector is leaking? Certainly it could be said they should al be replaced together but I only ordered one set of bolt/tension plate/copper seal/large and small o-ring. Do you always replace all 6 at once?
@@hobo1704 funny - I posted the above just about a year ago. I ended up ordering parts for all 6 but only did the one last year. This week I had to do another one. 2 down, 4 to go :)
@@craigldavis yeah I am doing mine now, need a slide hammer because one is impossible to move, it was the worst leaking so I knew it would be a problem.
@@craigldavis Yes best way when doing it yourself I feel. This is how I do it. Why touch something that isnt broken. Asking for trouble. You dont need to keep everything separate to avoid mixing them up either and it will be far easier to start/bleed fuel through than doing 3 or 6 together. Plus if you have an issue you know where it is, if you have done all 6 its diagnostic time.
Thanks so much for the video! If you have a moment, can you listen/watch my video of a 2013 Cayenne Diesel that has a ticking sound? Is this normal? It seems to be only coming from the passenger side where cylinder 3 is. I’m not sure why in the video it sounds like the ticking sound is also on the driver’s side. It concerns me because within the last two months, I have had the glow plug light flash and go into limp mode under hard acceleration. If I turn off the car and back on it goes away and I can drive normally again. I checked with a code reader after this happened and there are two codes P0269 - Cylinder 3 fuel injector deviation and P2146 - Duel injector supply open voltage. I also check the injector quantity and cylinder 3 injector is around +4mg/stroke while the other ones are just a little negative. The car seems to be running ok but seems to shake or stutter very slightly every once in a while. No check engine light, 125k miles on the car. Any help is appreciated! czcams.com/video/v8Lq7GMdLfQ/video.html
@@FourRingsAuto OK, I will do that tomorrow morning and report back. If it measures differently then it means the injector is bad? Do you know what that ticking sound is? Thanks so much!
@@FourRingsAuto OK, I measured all 6 injectors and they all measured 170k to 190 k. I tried to be as steady as possible but the numbers kept jumping around in that range. I couldn't find the nominal value after doing a google search.
Hi i’m an amateur mechanic. i can buy the tools for the change. Any advice for me? I have a 2012 Audi Q7 V6 3.0 TDi S-line. Chassis: WAUZZZ4LL4CD014905.
It's an injector slide hammer. I'll see if i can get you a number, but if you search for a diesel injector slide hammer you'll come up with one similar.
Do you have anyone in sydney you can recommend for the same procedure ? I have a touareg2013 with the same ticking, volkswagen told me 2 injectors need replacing and priced me 3600. I told them just the seals and they refused
@@FourRingsAuto @Four Rings Auto i Wished i could drive down to Australia so you can service my car. Your video couldn't be better. Great job with explicit explanation. I respect people with their opinion but the 7 haters of this great service video, I need someone to say something to them..!! Humans will never get satisfied even if you give them what they want. No such detailed video about this process exist on youtube; prove me wrong. Thumbs up @FourRingsAuto
Hi I love this video very informative I’m trying to get the bits I need to repair the same issue with my Q7 could you help me with the set I’ll need with the bolts and washers and which socket that is and the slide hammer I don’t want to get the wrong ones… thanks Steph 😊
great video just wondering if you can provide part number for the bolts or a complete kit ( washer/both O rings/botls) thanks or online place to order them thanks
You didn't say you were in Australia, so assumed UK or USA as most people watching seem to be. Tbh we buy them from the dealer. Vw is cheaper than audi. You can try HSY autoparts, but like i said, genuine is the go here.
Four Rings Auto cheer mate, went to hsy shop awesome guys, didn’t have the part but provide me the part numbers. Just got it off Audi (21$ just for a washer ahahaha )
im only 40sec and i can tell right away:
1. you know what you are doing
2. you were able to teach diagnosis better than most mechanics
Just had this exact same issue on my 2012 a6. Soot on exhaust, burning smell in cabin. And a chuffing noise at idle. Managed to pull the faulty injector out with some light assistance from a slide hammer as there wasnt much space to get leveage in with anything else. New copper washer in and problem solved. Ordered a full set of washers and bolts and will replace all when these arrive. On 175k miles at the moment. Old washer fully blown out on one side andwas abit of a faff to retreive the old one out of the bore so some long narrow picks definitely came in handy.
Much appreciated video and straightforward fix for £20 in parts.
2013 Touareg TDI, 135K miles, had one seal fail with similar symptoms of oil splooge. Replaced all six seals (kit) and new stretch bolts. Cheap and easy.
Very professional and informative. I had been told my manifold needed replacing (2012 A7 3.0 TDI). But the black residue, ticking and hissing is exactly as shown here. The tell tale for me was your comment about the port to exhaust any combustion that blows past the copper seal. Just saved me a world of pain on a job that may not need doing. But the injectors very much do need sorting.
I also have a exhaust smell in the cabin. But this looks like it’s from the exhausted combustion. Great video!
Thank you for sharing this video.
I had strong smoke smelling in my 2013 Treg cockpit.
The VW dealer tighten the exhaust manifold bolts, but it doesnt solve the problem.
Next VW diagnosis was "burned plastic on exhaust manifold" is the root cause of the smelling.
After some weeks searching in internet and youtube I found your video. I bought new seals and change them in a multibrand workshop. Problem solved.
Again, Thank you very much !!!
Wow! I can't believe vw didn't know what the problem was!! Melted plastic on the manifold....wow, just wow.
Thank you for this video. Just got my first injector out. The slide hammer is definitely a useful piece of equipment highly recommend to anyone considering this job. Get the proper socket to remove the diesel lines from the injector.
🙏🙏🙏👍👌Very very concise diagnosis and work carried out was to exacting standards
- >>>Now I can answer your Q’s
Fabulous clear CZcams guide: the best and I've watched loads. I have a Cayenne Diesel, same engine and have just bought a scan tool which shows massive injection quantity deviation (650mg/str) on two injectors, so I am now ready to pull them out for a look. Strangely I have no fault codes.
GrinningGser Did you figure out what was wrong? I have an error code and the deviation is around 5mg/stroke for one of the cylinders.
Excellent explaining and very good camera work. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks, got 2007 A6 allroad 3.0 tdi with the same ticking noise. has been doing that for a good few months and couldnt work it out. Booked it in for fuel injector washer replacement. Cheers for that!!!
Outstanding video and thanks for showing the relief port too. I was really struggling to understand how a leaking injector was causing an exhaust smell/leak on my left cylinder bank. Makes better sense now and an easy fix. Is there any need to bleed the fuel rails after reinstalling them? Thanks again!
The best video on the topic i have seen, thank you for some great clear concise information
Brilliant detail, and I probably owe you a few £'s. I recited item by item to my VW main dealer who was trying to charge to remove the cylinder head from my wife's Touareg.
Very good job... Congrats and thx a lot for detailed description with a succesful video shut...
Great video, very well documented. Need to have mine inspected. Kudos 4 rings!
Top video - informative and clear explanations AND camera was in focus the whole time - well done and keep them coming
incredible video, I have this problem on my 07 2.7TDI, I first noticed a fuel smell in the cabin sometimes, have had a look and have that black 'lava' like stuff on my manifold. I didnt realise it was this, so thank you very much! My car has done 205k miles, unless there is an actual problem, there is no reason why my injectors should need replacing? Going to do this DIY. Thanks again.
Life saving video. I did have a quick question, isn’t there a concern of the carbon falling into the cylinder when cleaning out the injector channel?
I got a 1st gen v6 3.0. code bmk. Do you know it it has that escape port on the cyl head?
Good video, I've spotted a injector deviation on cyl 3 and 4 (-2mg). Might go for a injector reseal too.
Thx a lot 4 the upload, having the exact same noise on my SQ5 Tdi.
Great video. I have the same problem and have already gotten the appropriate seals and tools.
The question for me is, how did you bleed the diesel line again?
Is this only possible with VCDS?
hi mate was there a ticking noise more noticeable when cold starting ? as i have the same mess/grime on the side of my cylinder and can sort of here the ticking noise through your video ?
Great tutorial I just did mine but snapped the return hose clip so had to replace the hose back to the banjo bolt on the fuel rail any idea what torque this should be set too? I called the main dealer and they won’t tell me!!
Glad I find this video and I hope I can get an answer from you as I have an audi a8 3.0 tdi 2014 engine code CTBA
On the left side as you open the bonnet, injectors 1and 2 appears to be wet .. I mean the area around and I think that the seals (copper washer are gone)
The question is and I couldn't find the answer nowhere
What is the OEM part number for that washers and the o ring on the body of the injector and also the number for that little oring on top of the injector ? I am really desperate to find that numbers so I can order all these parts.
Thank you!
Also a very great video, everything on point!!! 👍👍👍
Are the injectors mushroomed so the copper seals do not fall off during install?
Thank you for the great guide!!
Is there a diy-guide somewhere on how to put that diesel filter under the bonnet?😮
Thank you for your video. Nice quality job !!!Can you please post all the tools needed for this job ? Thank you again !
awesome explanation within the video!👍
Have you ever seen one of these where the copper washer was completely obliterated?
I just did cylinder 3 yesterday on one that i bought cheap, the injector bolt was actually loose and the washer was completely gone.
Car has 250 000 km.
I was kind of nervous that i dropped it into the cylinder head but i guess not.
Hey ! Thanks for the video!
Wonder if you can advise me- I have a b7 A4 avant 3.0 tdi Quattro that makes an almost hissing or hashhh sound when accelerating and then stops when car comes to a stop at the lights etc, performance seems fine but the sound is annoying and cornering as I first thought it was coming from the ac heater system but that’s all working fine and off when this happens, hope you can advise me on this? Cheers
Hi,great video which I will be following at the wkend. I started looking into this as I had a diesel smell in the cabin,I've got the same problem as in your video but I also have a pool of fuel sat on top of the engine! I've checked as far as I can without removing anything for obvious split pipes etc but I'm concerned it could be more,I'm quite practical so I'm not afraid to get stuck I and romce what I have to, ut any ideas would be greatly appreciated 👍
Hey there thanks for this video! Is it needed/recommended to change the tappet gasket as well? My mechanic is asking me to find a new one but I can't find it
Hi, great video it helped me figure out I had the same problem, 4 of 6 seals failed, injector 5 didn’t have a washer or o ring on it no idea where they went. Anyway my question is considering the seats were In bad shape with rings in the alloy where the washer sits, which I ended up taking more material than you would need to normally to get it flat, have you seen them that bad where you e had to ream up to a mm to get the seat flat?
Bravo 👏🏻 some top quality work
Great video ms I my 2014 q7 3.0tdi has exactly this happening, getting worse noticeably last few days. I can't get it to a garage for a couple of day, will it cause any damage?
This is a very good video!! Thank you!!
What is the cost to do this job and would it be covered under warranty? Thanks.
Great video. One of my return line connectors on the injector is leaking diesel. Any suggestions in order to get a better seal? Thx!
Hey, but I didn't understood is there some rubber seals inside? Ti separate leak. Should be, but you use wire brush to clean.
And also I see something like oil seals on top of the valve cover. This should be replaced also I guess? If injectors are naked inside?
Edit. I saw at the end that injectors have own inner seals
Thanks for the video! Any idea if there’s a difference on a 2016 Touareg that I should be aware of?
While cleaning out how do you stop debris from the injector bore entering the cylinder from the injector hole in the cylinder head? I'd like to do this job but worried about debris contamination.
That’s the same problem I have on my 3.0 v6 Vw Touareg, what price would I be looking to have this job done please
Do you have a link for the injector seals
Do you happen to have the torque values for the clamp bolt for the injectors?
What nm do the leak off lines need to be torqued to when replacing? Thanks so much for the video
Hello the copper head at the injector fells inside the motor any tips how to remove it
Hi I have a Volkswagen Touareg 2011 and it does the same noise took it to mechanic and he changed the injector seals but is the same noise again after that I got new injector and still the same noise but also smoke comes out of the injector now
Great job with the video! Do you know what size socket is needed to take the injectors apart to remove the nozzle? This is regarding a Q5 TDI 3.0 TDI CPNB engine code. The injectors look identical to the ones in the video. Thanks!
Thanks. If you take apart a piezo injector, it will need calibration afterwards. This is something only for a diesel fuel injection shop. If you mess with this stuff and get it wrong, the engine not running would be your best outcome. If it runs, it may run away, or hydrolock a cylinder. Not worth it in my opinion unless you are simply studying the insides, not to reuse the injector.
Thank you for the video
You're welcome, glad it helped you.
Thanks for the video, subscribed 👍🏻
Thanks
Is this David Beckham?😂
Whats the long silver cylinder shape component by the upper firewall for?
Great video! Any suggestion for keeping the washer from falling in when putting the injector back in? Thanks!
Pop a fine rod down (I used a welding rod) just poking through the hole and then slide the copper washer down the rod, rounded edge facing down. It will seat fairly nicely and cant flip over or onto its side etc. There is a void near the top of the injector port that would be very easy for things like the copper washer to slide off the injector and down there and then well you aint getting it back easily.
How about some grease to keep it in place ?
Brilliant same os happened to my q7 just 1 injector though
Wau thank you
What thread adapter is on your tool?? M8??
Cant google the part# on your tool
Hi! Great video, thank you! I have same problem now. I'm ordered seals. Just question, when I put injection back how can I make sure seals stay on? Are you use some special for that? Thank you very much!
Hello there, thank you for the video. Before starting the job, does the fuel system need to be depressurised before removing the fuel lines? And is the system self bleeding when the job is completed? Thanks again!
No, there is no pressure without the HPFP running. Yes, just open the driver's door a few times and it will self prime
Open the drivers door?@hobo1704
Nice video thank you !
Would this produce white smoke ?
Great video! What would the cost be approximately to replace an injector? Do they come as a set if all six need doing? Also.. when do they likely fail? 100k miles plus? Thanks again :)
Can be bought seperate. Unsure of price per injector. Need coding to the engine ecu with appropriate scan tool.
@@FourRingsAuto - In your experience is it common for the head to need re-seating for the crush ring?
Yes very common
380$
Hi, thank you to share this video it is really very helpful. I did a head cover PCV valve cleaning therefore I had to removed the injectors (2013 3.0 CDUC engine, 245HP). After 5K km I found the same type of leak you presented. I am scratching my head because I did everything according to Audi service procedure. Interestingly the procedure not asks to repace the injector screw (WHT004923B). The probably reason is because the screw torque is 14Nm and no additional angle of torque. What type of engine have you serviced?
This is a CRCA 3.0tdi and the injector screw must be replaced on this model. Not sure about cduc as i don't believe we get that engine here.
@@FourRingsAuto Sorry not to be able to recognise first time the engine type you gave in the description field. I am in crossfire. I have a 2013 Porsche Cayenne 3.0 TDI. The engine is produced by Audi, engine code is CRCA (not CDUC I mentioned earlier). I bought the service procedures from Porsche. It clearly states the support screw torque of the injector is 14Nm and no need to replace. Interestingly even installing a new injector the srcew is not on the replaceable item's list. The screw installed in the car is steel screw, The other side: checked today Audi elsawin service procedure for the CRCA engine. It states the support screw tightening first 6Nm than 90 degree. The screw should be replaced evey time (reinstall used or install new). I doubt Porsche modified this part of the engine therefore the question is who is right? Do the steel screw 14Nm torque is the same as the alu screw torque with 6Nm + 90degree? First I will check with Audi whether the WHT004923B screw is alu or steel screw. If steel than it is a bit strange because angle torque is used with alu screws usually. On the other hand there is example to use both type of screw with different torque on a part, for example the water pump: alu 3Nm +90degree, steel 10Nm. I do not think the steel screw can be tightened more. It is a 6mm bolt, do not know the actual grade of it. 14 Nm is between the 9.8 - 10.9 grade as a maximum torque. For grade 12.9 the max torque is 19,9Nm.
Other notes: I have leaking on cylinder 1-3 bank only. I have partially removed the charged air alu pipe to check the cylinder head cover sealing and it is OK, no leaking.
I like your detailed response! I can't say for sure about if the bolt is different. I have only dealt with the issue on audi and vw so far, as diesel cayennes, macans, panamera, are less common here. I have always replaced the bolts and torqued to 6nm plus 90 degrees rotation. I can't tell you for sure if the bolt is alloy or steel. But even a lot of steel bolts are torque to yield/ stretch bolts. It would be strange if they had changed the injector bolts, but it is good info to know and I'm interested to find out about it.
Also CRCA is the most common 3.0tdi gen 2 that I see in audi Q7 etc.
@@FourRingsAuto Hi, one question not related to the topic: Do the PCV valve in the valve cover serviceable - replaceable? The parts catalog audi.7zap.com/en/rdw/audi+q7/aq7/2013-675/1/103-103055/ designates as item 25 for this but there is no item 25 in the part list. Checked the cup and was not able to figure out how to remove the it without damaging the cover. It seem to be pressed to the neck of the cover. Any idea?
So expansive the injectors...
I have change x6 with new.
The heart of the engine with the pump HP, after the repair driving my car is really more pleasant.
I have the old injectors to sale if someone is interested with...
Hi there,this is a very good video on injector leaks,,I have a audi a4 3.0 tdi (b7),,just wondering if that rubber ring fails,the one that's half way down the injector,,will it cause the oil to leak out the vent? If it does i think i have found my problem lol
It could cause that yes. But they only usually fail if the injector has previously been removed and the seal not replaced, or the copper washer at the bottom is allowing combustion past that is melting the seal.
after removing the injector whos retaining bolt turned out to be finger tight i found there was no copper washer? could the washer have fallen off into the engine whilst it was being pulled out, the seat looks clean but i cant see any impression on the bottom of the injector
Burnt away is usually the case. The bolt is loose because it's torqued against the washer. When the washer burns away, the injector is then able to move slightly and the bolt is then loose.
Do you think leaking injectors can damage DPF? Or have negative influence to emisions, smoke etc. I have a similar problem, but it happens only when engine is cold. Also i e carbon deposits in exhaust. I clean it, but after while its black again. Thank you, great video btw.
Egr valve?
Going to do seals on an 2007 A4 same engine but it has cover plates around the injectors with 4 cap screws not clamps with one bolt?
Also Toyota and Hyundai 2012 on have venting outside cam cover for leaky injectors
Yeah that's the older engine you are doing
Any tips or tricks for the older ones? Thanks
Im doing the same job, after replacing one faulty injector, Im now getting a P2149 error code when I accelerate with moderate throttle. Do I need to go into the computer and program the new injectors or do I have another issue that I'll need to trouble shoot?
New injector should be coded using vcds
Great video!
I'm experiencing the same problem. Injector 6 seal needs replacing.
When i remove the injector to replace the seal will the injector need re-coding? I have a VW Touareg 2010
If u are reusing the injector no coding is required.
Cool thanks for your reply
Any side effect like blue smoke on idle ?
Hi. What year of 3.0 tdi engine is this. My touareg is 2006. Are the torque settings the same?
Different engine entirely
Awesome video! I’m capable of doing this quite easily but want to get a slide hammer, anyone know which one will actually work? I can’t seem to find a direct link or answer anywhere…
He showed the P/N in the video..
@@hobo1704 yes I went back and grabbed it and ordered one that worked great off eBay. Thanks!
also a common fault on the 1.4 fiesta
Does each injectors pressure relief port exit at a different place?
I have the black goo (looks like melted plastic, but crumbles like charcoal) in one place on my exhaust manifold.
When running exhaust gasses only come out at that one spot.
Does that mean only one injector is leaking?
Certainly it could be said they should al be replaced together but I only ordered one set of bolt/tension plate/copper seal/large and small o-ring.
Do you always replace all 6 at once?
They can leak separately, change all the seals otherwise you will have the same problem on the rest
@@hobo1704 funny - I posted the above just about a year ago. I ended up ordering parts for all 6 but only did the one last year.
This week I had to do another one.
2 down, 4 to go :)
@@craigldavis yeah I am doing mine now, need a slide hammer because one is impossible to move, it was the worst leaking so I knew it would be a problem.
@@craigldavis Yes best way when doing it yourself I feel. This is how I do it. Why touch something that isnt broken. Asking for trouble. You dont need to keep everything separate to avoid mixing them up either and it will be far easier to start/bleed fuel through than doing 3 or 6 together. Plus if you have an issue you know where it is, if you have done all 6 its diagnostic time.
Another great video 👍
Thanks for your feedback. Comments like this make it worth it. Cheers again
Thanks so much for the video! If you have a moment, can you listen/watch my video of a 2013 Cayenne Diesel that has a ticking sound? Is this normal? It seems to be only coming from the passenger side where cylinder 3 is. I’m not sure why in the video it sounds like the ticking sound is also on the driver’s side. It concerns me because within the last two months, I have had the glow plug light flash and go into limp mode under hard acceleration. If I turn off the car and back on it goes away and I can drive normally again. I checked with a code reader after this happened and there are two codes P0269 - Cylinder 3 fuel injector deviation and P2146 - Duel injector supply open voltage. I also check the injector quantity and cylinder 3 injector is around +4mg/stroke while the other ones are just a little negative. The car seems to be running ok but seems to shake or stutter very slightly every once in a while. No check engine light, 125k miles on the car. Any help is appreciated!
czcams.com/video/v8Lq7GMdLfQ/video.html
Measure the resistance of cylinder 3 injector and compare to the rest.
@@FourRingsAuto OK, I will do that tomorrow morning and report back. If it measures differently then it means the injector is bad? Do you know what that ticking sound is? Thanks so much!
@@FourRingsAuto OK, I measured all 6 injectors and they all measured 170k to 190 k. I tried to be as steady as possible but the numbers kept jumping around in that range. I couldn't find the nominal value after doing a google search.
I checked the injector balance and it was 5 mg/stroke. After replacing the injector the car has stopped stuttering.
This just happened my a6 cduc. Does a dpf have an affect on this? Or potentially cause it?
No
Hi i’m an amateur mechanic. i can buy the tools for the change. Any advice for me? I have a 2012 Audi Q7 V6 3.0 TDi S-line. Chassis: WAUZZZ4LL4CD014905.
Wich set is that for the injector removal? A number?
It's an injector slide hammer. I'll see if i can get you a number, but if you search for a diesel injector slide hammer you'll come up with one similar.
Do you have anyone in sydney you can recommend for the same procedure ? I have a touareg2013 with the same ticking, volkswagen told me 2 injectors need replacing and priced me 3600. I told them just the seals and they refused
Sorry i don't unfortunately have any contacts to give you. I'd hate to recommend someone i don't know, and then you have an issue.
@@FourRingsAuto thats fine thanks for the quick response either way !
Hi
How many o-rings have to be replaced on one injector ?
1 oring around the body. 1 oring at the top for the leak off line. 1 copper washer at the bottom. 1 bolt to hold down the injector.
@@FourRingsAuto is it important to change all 3?
It depends whether you want to do the job right, or do the job again.
Where r u. My audi q7 tdi has the injector problem. I need ur help!
Western Australia
@@FourRingsAuto @Four Rings Auto i Wished i could drive down to Australia so you can service my car. Your video couldn't be better. Great job with explicit explanation. I respect people with their opinion but the 7 haters of this great service video, I need someone to say something to them..!! Humans will never get satisfied even if you give them what they want. No such detailed video about this process exist on youtube; prove me wrong. Thumbs up @FourRingsAuto
@@larrypops9900 thanks for your lovely response! I'm glad this video was of help to you.
@@FourRingsAuto I hope you can share your expertise once more on how to remove and clean the EGR of Audi Q7 3.0 diesel. Keep up the good work.
is this a common occurrence on the 2.0L TDI 4 cylinder?
No, mainly 3.0tdi
@@FourRingsAuto cheers, thanks for the quick reply!
Hello mate how much does that cost to get done ?
Exactly this problem on a 2017 V6 diesel Touareg.
Where are you based
Western Australia
Hi, do you have a part number for the one use bolts?
I'll see if i can get it for you.
Injector Bolt part number WHT004923B
How do I test which inject is leaking ?
Look for black shit coming out the side of the manifold
Where other than Audi can i buy the rebuild kit
For the injectors seals? Just buy from vw as generally slightly cheaper but these aren't expensive parts.
@@FourRingsAuto thanks
Hi I love this video very informative I’m trying to get the bits I need to repair the same issue with my Q7 could you help me with the set I’ll need with the bolts and washers and which socket that is and the slide hammer I don’t want to get the wrong ones… thanks Steph 😊
im assuming you shouldnt drive it like this
Correct. It damages the cylinder head when left too long.
injections dead
Should you change all the injector seals even if you only have a visable issue with one?
Recommended but not always necessary. Almost worth doing it as preventative maintenance in my opinion as such a common issue on these.
@@FourRingsAuto absolute legend, thank you for the reply it's much appreciated!!
This is a very good video!! Thank you!!
great video just wondering if you can provide part number for the bolts or a complete kit ( washer/both O rings/botls) thanks or online place to order them thanks
Try fcp euro.
@@FourRingsAuto thanks for the reply, but would wanted somewhere from Australia, will have look if audi dealer ship would sell them
You didn't say you were in Australia, so assumed UK or USA as most people watching seem to be. Tbh we buy them from the dealer. Vw is cheaper than audi. You can try HSY autoparts, but like i said, genuine is the go here.
Four Rings Auto cheer mate, went to hsy shop awesome guys, didn’t have the part but provide me the part numbers. Just got it off Audi (21$ just for a washer ahahaha )
Any tips for not dropping copper washer into the cylinder head, while putting back the injector?
Cheers