We need pocket size EMPs easily made from disposable cameras.. load up on those while you can. And learn to make more powerful ones from your experience with the disposable cameras .. Them dogs or drones will be hunting you someday.
From a wing-foiler and kite-foiler: That rear stabilizer looks absolutely huge. Maybe over half the area of the wing? We usually ride stabilizers around 1/6 to 1/8 of the area of the front wing, and that’s usually plenty of area for passive stabilization. You could probably get away with even less given you have active stabilization. All that extra stabilizer and the fuselage you need to support it really kills your efficiency, and even more so once you scale it up and start going faster.
Depends on the center of gravity, and how consistant it remains positioned. With wing/kite-foils, the rider is right on the center of gravity/center of lift. Agree, smaller is better.
@@cortburris9526 Usually the rear stabilizer is set up to do net zero or even negative lift in some cases. If you use it to create lift you now just have two wings, and the rear one is in very turbulent flow and not very efficient. So bigger stabilizer doesn’t mean more lift, just a little more control at the price of a lot of drag
actually, it seems that it's supposed to be autonomous so the more stabilization it gets the more forgiving it will be for the rider. No need for auto stabilization if the rider has to actively pilot the pitch. anyway it's part of the fine tuning that would take place on the actual full scale model with load on it because on this model, nothing is realistic apart for the control model, electronic, overall design
Interference drag is formed where yr surfaces meet at 90 degree angles. Airplanes have curves there, plastic fairings or composite fillers. That may help for more speed. Love yr work, wonder how long it will take for Nobel people to realize what weve been sayin all along.
I have been making hydrofoil blades. 3D print hollow with zero infill. Fill with expanding foam. It is almost impossible to make them waterproof, so it is best to have consistent bouyancy by filling with foam. Rather than some filling with water. Or partly filling with water.
@@alongal407 Not necessarily. Where extra strength is needed I put narrow slots in the wall, say 0.1mm wide and a few mm long, depending on strength needed. In order to get good bonding between layers I use a nozzle temperature a bit higher than recommended. PLA Meta filament is quite strong, but it does have a problem: don't leave it in sunlight in a hot car, or it distorts.
I think you've really got something going here. This is a very exciting project. I also really enjoyed watching you remove and add different aspects of the design to see their effect and whether they're needed. I know simplicity is key to engineering but so is speed, fun, and responsiveness. I think if you get all of it to work full scale you'll have something extremely fun and easy to ride.
The secret to ridiculously fast printing yet preserving quality and dimensional accuracy is VERY SLOW outer wall, print outer walls first in exclusive mode. Crank the speed on inner walls and infill. Sick project man!!
FYI- most hydrofoils place the mast behind the wing (and therefore behind the COG) so the mast acts like a vertical stabilizer. You can get some yaw stability for free by doing this. It would act just like your current rear vertical stabilizer, but with no extra drag.
@onquarter - an excellent point ! I expect some small scale effects will disappear in a full-scale version so Daniel might build something really useful with this project. Many passport-lite visitors might want to copy this design for international maritime travel but a kayak or a windsurfer are probably much easier :-)
@@linecraftman3907 More sweep in the wings might help, but there's still the join. There has to be a design that works, but also doesn't catch seaweed!
Since it seems like he is aggressively trying to lower the amount of surfaces needed, I think he should consider giving the 2 columns their own servos. That way he can safely remove the rudder and use the columns - which he were going to cover in flat surfaces anyway - for yaw-control. I also wonder if one of his issues with only using the front 2 surfaces is that they were too much in the axis of gravity. As in, maybe when he tried to pitch-control, all they affected was height, and they need to be brought backwards or forwards to be able to affect pitch? If he truly only wants one surface though, he could try to complex something more complex than a servo-controlled surface. Imagine a tube (covered in a flexible material) going backwards, that expands outwards to create whichever profile is needed at that moment. So for pitch you get a horizontal flat surface that is vertically fatter towards the rear (upwards or downwards depending on the direction to pitch), and for yaw it is same but vertical. And to roll, it makes a spiral-shaped profile (so ie. horizontal at front, then rotates towards vertical in a gradient to the rear). Unsure how you would solve needing all controls at same time, but in worst case you simply design the morphing to happen so fast that you can pwm it to seemingly be all 3 at once (cause that is TOTALLY how water works XD, the reshaping won't disturb things _at all_ lol /s)
I just noticed when your airfoil hit aerated water it lost some stability as the props lost thrust. If you're using speed regulators in water the speed of the prop isn't directly proportional to thrust when the water density varies. If you can switch from motor speed regulation to motor power regulation you might see even better results. Motor power is speed times torque or electrical current. We had to do this to have an oil rig supply ship maintain a position in the ocean next to an oil rig. If the water got choppy the water density varied a lot with time as waves turned up the water and speed regulation just didn't work well.
Dude, cool build! Remember that Brennen Monorail train built back in the day? The inventor used gyroscopes to stabilise and it which made the train lean into the turn. That would totally stabilise your platform and solve your issues.
That’s actually a very good idea. Getting it in the correct position and making sure it was stable enough even if the gyro stopped working would be the key. If he added it to the system he has it would probably work just fine.
When camping, it’s always good to see someone remembered to bring an ironing board, and it floats and rises out of the water. The Excalibur of ironing boards 😂 Great video! Unbelievable stability.
You spoil us with the best videos on CZcams. I could watch you build and engineer stuff all day. Something calming about your videos. Don't ever change. This build is EPIC!
I tried the integrated hinge design and I'm very happy. Way reduces the complexity of my alternate designs. One thing: you have a 0.15mm part spacing in your OnShape model and I was able to make it work with much smaller spacings of 0.075mm and 0.06mm. Probably printer dependent but you do get additional strength by going as small as possible.
Just a thought. In terms of giving preference to throttle vs. control surfaces for controling vehicle dynamics, I would intuitively lean more on control surfaces and keep different tasks assigned to different components. Over reliance on the motors for both thrust and dynamics might land you in a situation where a prop gets fouled or you lose thrust, and instead of gliding off plane you nosedive. Also, just relying on the motors will probably limit your operating speed to a very narrow window. Just my two cents. Thanks for never failing to deliver quality content!
Like a plane turning with only rudder and ailerons, the hydrofoil wants to pitch down(relative to the ground). To keep the bow out or the water during high speed turns, you should consider adding a little bit of up-pitch to the elevators. Like triming a plane. Apologies if you have already considered this.
I would like to see the ailerons being used as flaps to increase lift during take off, then leveling off for flight, and maybe even reflexing a bit to aid in high speed work. The foiling Americas Cup AC75 sailboats do a similar thing with flaps on their main foil. That is one thing ive noticed in all your hydrofoil stuff, is that they work really well at 1 speed, but dont like operating through a range of speeds.
Seems like experience with these things is kicking in at this point, given how well it's worked compared to some previous projects. Hopefully there's no scaling issues when you go finish the one you can ride on. Definitely nice to see things go smooth for a change.
I think you should keep the rudder and use it to control adverse yaw like we do in sailplanes/aircraft. When you roll towards one direction the rudder can be used to correct the pitch. Now, you have the differential control on the motors, but I think that with the rudder you'll get a basic neutral track with no input and then be able to control the nose pitch with less overall drag when doing roll control.
The algorithm has showed this thumbnail for a week before I jumped for it, and man do I feel dumb now. This is one of the coolest and most personal projects I've ever seen. Also love to see the testing methodology. It obviously took much longer than we'll ever appreciate, but your reactions to it's relatively fast success certainly speaks to the superb initial design.
What an incredible project. Hard to believe it works so incredibly well, as a "first try". Speed range was amazing, too. The "integration" of the servos and controls into the printed structure is genius. Shows what benefits 3D printing can bring. Love the way you're combining so many different fields and skills to create this thing. (3D printing, engineering, aerofoils, flying and boating, control systems (stabilisation) - not to mention having fun on the lake!) Looking forward to seeing the FoilBoat...
I just tried it, works great. Really helps to have the servo mounted and perhaps another fastener on the other end just for strength. I'd recommend going for the absolute minimum flap angle possible because that really improves your hinge strength. Generally I think that this is an unusual vehicle because it's moving through a much denser fluid than most planes (which I'm assuming your purpose would be), so it might be unnecessary to have spars through the flaps. Check out the OnShape he released and a section view to see how he did it. I actually tried it separately then looked and ours were exactly the same. Only comment is that he used 0.15mm spacing between the parts, and I've found that even 0.1mm has some play, so I think something like 0.05mm or just a little above would do fine, but it of course depends on what printer you're working with.
Glad you showed the counter steering effect for turn initiation and balancing with bicycle and regular stabilized foil board. I think that is going to really be critical when you put your big heavy board and yourself above it. Right now with the low CG, the ailerons and differential thrust have a large effect. I think when you get the weight up there, the ailerons will be much less effective, and differential thrust will be pretty much irrelevant and you'll need to balance it primarily using the rudder. I think the trick will be to focus on lateral balancing and pitch stability first and then mix in steering in reverse at a lower mix ratio so that the balancing effect dominates. Basically when you push the stick right, it'll kick the foil to the left, the whole vehicle tips right, and then stabilizes itself into a steady right turn.
Here is a strange idea: you know how ships have bulbous bows in order to create destructive interference with the bow wave that would normally be created, thereby increasing efficiency? I wonder if you could integrate bulbs (or control surfaces?) in front of the propellers that could generate a wave that peaks just over the propellers, allowing them to operate in effectively "deeper" water, and allowing higher speeds?
Might be able to drop the stall speed by making your ailerons act as flaps too. Also looks like some cross-coupling terms in the control would help. Throttle to flight altitude for instance. Maybe some more sonar sensors to average out waves and smooth the ride?
Hi There, I saw you use silicone beneath Heatshrink tubing, I guess it worked well for you, but there a type of Heatshrink tubing meant to be weather proof (water, dust, etc., proof) called Heat-glue tubing, you just use it like Heatshrink, BUT just so you know, it is rather hard to remove once put on (it's not really a downside, since the point is to be WeatherProof)
Waves and ripples can be filtered out electronically. Measuring a pressure underwater as a function of depth may come with systemic errors because of venturi / bernoulli factors.
There's 3rd type of hydrofoil - shallow-submerged. It works on effect of decreasing lift force when close to surface. Same effect makes your craft stable.
Maybe consider using the ailerons as flaps to provide direct lift control, similar to PLM on navy aircraft. It might allow you to control altitude without changing throttle (speed), or pitch attitude.
Please stop advertising for shady companies, especially when they handle sensitive stuff like medical information. That stuff is serious. Every video sponsored by that company I don't watch.
You may be able to reduce drag and increase your speed with an all flying elevator of a smaller size, may be able to hide the servo up front in the main wing with a pushrod for actuating the elevator
Interesting how you used P=2 and no integral nor D and there was no obvious error due to that. It is probable that auto-tuning heuristics won‘t work due to all the influence from water/wind/… Very interesting, truly enjoyed it. Thank you for sharing your insights!
Amazing project. The sonar feature appears to work really well. I am sure that in 15 years we will not think too much of this but, at this point in time, it is really satisfying to be able to witness and appreciate the massive rate of development in the RC world, in autonomous craft, 3D printing (both plastics and metals) as well as the rapid miniaturization of technologies in general while they keep getting more and more affordable to the average person. Absolutely amazing.
IMO you should hold body design contests for your vehicles, just how you did with the propellers. I'm not an engineer, but I'm a vehicle body designer, I'd be super glad to participate in something like that.
I'm a kite and prone surfoiler, very impressed with this project. To me it looks like no rudder and a much slimmer and smaller stab would make it much more efficient. Your full size version will be much more difficult to keep at a steady height because you will lose the neutral buoyancy. We do this with bodyweight, but the heavier and bigger the board will be the more difficult Have a look at how America's Cup foilers solve this.
@4:30 if you would like to put the servo connector on after fishing the wires through a small hole, you can remove them from the connector housing using a bit of care and a small screwdriver to pry up the tabs that hold the crimped ends in.
Careful with rolling gains, you have 2 thin masts, which offer very little shear resistance in the horizontal direction....with scaling the forces will get higher
Haha, I'm happy to see you mentioning the inverted Pendulum phenomenon like riding a bike with the minute physics video, glad you saw my comment on the other drone foil video about it. 17:58
You should try autostable profiles like the ones used on flying wings. You would only need one wing and two control surfaces plus diff thrust to have control over all axis
"if you do a Next Step" on this project, make the "Ailerons" aerodynamically balanced so that the servos aren't holding against the lift 100% of the time... (Maybe even full flying wingtips?)..... but.... Well Done!!
i usually is one of those "negative" people telling you how you should have done then it comes to boat´s. But not this time! Now its time to tell i am impressed and i really liked to see how you designed the 3D parts, hinges and so on. Really liked it, properly done imo!
You might be able to use the ailerons as flaperons as well, deflecting them downwards should decrease takeoff velocity, and (slightly) deflectinf them upwards would decrease the lift of the main foil, increasing the speed before it breaches.
Instead of a sonar, you may want to consider using a pressure sensor for depth. Should be less noisy in the presence of waves. Use the same design guidelines as aircraft static ports to reduce the effect of dynamic pressure induced by speed.
Something I think would make hydrofoils like these faster would be a way to make the wing create less lift. Possibly a fabric wing that shrinks its wingspan or thickness of the hydrofoil to create less lift. Making the hydrofoil reach higher speeds to sustain such lift. Or something like those plastic lightsabers that extend out, but with a wing.
I think you can make the tail assembly at least 1/3rd of your current size, I am familiar with the Moth and Switch foilboats and the T-tail is extremely small compared to the mail foil and they just use it to trim the altitude and steer. While they use a flap on the main to automatically keep the altitude
I feel like we're finally starting to see the results of all the previous projects and what you've learned, particularly in regards to the programming.
It would be really slick to run push rods through the elevator tubes, so you can keep all the actuators tucked into the foil. That should let you thin out the tail to cut drag, and help out with the cable management at the same time. Keep up the great work, Daniel. I love the content of course, but I also mean hydrodynamics, mechanical design, control systems, test planning, etc. Cheers to your continued success 🎉
As someone who is a novice to RC and electronics, this is incredibly cool to see. I know electric cars and modern tech use sensors to correct for smoother operation but to watch you just slap it on there and rig it up in a way that works so well with some clear examples - freaking cool af... I hope you make the boat for 2 people and document tf out of that. I would 100% give it a shot myself if it works out well for you. Subscribed!
It's kinda mind boggling - all I had to look forward to before this video and all your work was to make a Stevenson craft, which is for slow movement - still sounds like fun, but I was looking toward something in at least 30 knot range, With this, once you scale it up I think you will be in that range!!! So COOL!
differential thrust at larger scale will prove tricky with the added weight... I would definitely leave room for a rudder or a way of thrust vectoring the motors but that might be more complicated
assulting your robot in the water is the equivalent to boston dynamics pushing their robots onto the ground over and over again haha
Had the same image in my head exactly. That Boston Dynamics guy with the broom stick assaulting their robot.
We need pocket size EMPs easily made from disposable cameras.. load up on those while you can. And learn to make more powerful ones from your experience with the disposable cameras ..
Them dogs or drones will be hunting you someday.
@@joejenkins9181 yes, why do we do that?
We all know that when the robots uprise, they're coming for Boston Dynamics Hockey Stick Guy first
"assaulting" 😂 love it
Can't decide if I am more impressed with the performance of the hydrofoil or the fact that the radiomaster survived.
Haha same
he waterproofed it in a previous video
Came here to say the same. He must have conformal coated the shit out of that radio lol..
I'm having trouble finding that video, should I be able to see it from the thumbnail haha?@@nightmares100
@@nightmares100 Can you provide the link? or the title of the video?
10:21 "Hope this remote is waterproof" says Daniel, as water sloshes around in the transparent casing lmao
Is it Radiomaster M2 pocket? I think it’s not a waterproof radio :/
kik
he did water proof it in some of his videos by covering some IC with epoxy and other stuff that i dont know what it is
The electronics could still be waterproofed
@@HENEKETT it still works after its in the water, even in short term, its quite water proof. Else it would have caused a short circut
Sick dude! I was surprised it could do those little jumps-you’ve got it dialed in so well
It would be awesome to do jumps riding a full-size version!
thank you very much for providing the incredible control platform!
"Nick-Rehm-in-a-box" lol, so well put 07:38
RCtestflight video for dinner, doesn't get better than that!
True
I am partial to pizza myself, but to each their own.
Oh yeah
had i of seen this while i was eating dinner just now i would of watched it instead of mr.videos demolition man react XD
I'm eating lunch at work.. but sure.
From a wing-foiler and kite-foiler:
That rear stabilizer looks absolutely huge. Maybe over half the area of the wing?
We usually ride stabilizers around 1/6 to 1/8 of the area of the front wing, and that’s usually plenty of area for passive stabilization. You could probably get away with even less given you have active stabilization.
All that extra stabilizer and the fuselage you need to support it really kills your efficiency, and even more so once you scale it up and start going faster.
Even for 2 people on one board? I think he's going to need all the 'lift' he can get.
Depends on the center of gravity, and how consistant it remains positioned. With wing/kite-foils, the rider is right on the center of gravity/center of lift. Agree, smaller is better.
@@cortburris9526
Usually the rear stabilizer is set up to do net zero or even negative lift in some cases. If you use it to create lift you now just have two wings, and the rear one is in very turbulent flow and not very efficient.
So bigger stabilizer doesn’t mean more lift, just a little more control at the price of a lot of drag
actually, it seems that it's supposed to be autonomous so the more stabilization it gets the more forgiving it will be for the rider. No need for auto stabilization if the rider has to actively pilot the pitch. anyway it's part of the fine tuning that would take place on the actual full scale model with load on it because on this model, nothing is realistic apart for the control model, electronic, overall design
Interference drag is formed where yr surfaces meet at 90 degree angles. Airplanes have curves there, plastic fairings or composite fillers. That may help for more speed. Love yr work, wonder how long it will take for Nobel people to realize what weve been sayin all along.
half the time i don't know what hes talking about, but 100% of the time i enjoy his vids.
lol.. same. sometimes i'm get so lost.
So glad I am not the only one!
I wouldn't have known what an IMU was until I recently bought a programmable motor controller for my ebike 😂😂
The wake from that on the glass is mesmerizing.
i wonder if he could get away with that in a no wake zone ...
I have been making hydrofoil blades. 3D print hollow with zero infill. Fill with expanding foam. It is almost impossible to make them waterproof, so it is best to have consistent bouyancy by filling with foam. Rather than some filling with water. Or partly filling with water.
But then wouldn't the parts be weaker?
@@alongal407 Not necessarily. Where extra strength is needed I put narrow slots in the wall, say 0.1mm wide and a few mm long, depending on strength needed. In order to get good bonding between layers I use a nozzle temperature a bit higher than recommended. PLA Meta filament is quite strong, but it does have a problem: don't leave it in sunlight in a hot car, or it distorts.
@@StabilisingGlobalTemperature or just shove some alu or carbon tubes touching the inner surfaces and glue everything with foam :D
@@Ivan-yo4hy I generally "keep it simple". Stressed skin. Increase the wall thickness if needed. Add more and deeper slots.
I think you've really got something going here. This is a very exciting project. I also really enjoyed watching you remove and add different aspects of the design to see their effect and whether they're needed. I know simplicity is key to engineering but so is speed, fun, and responsiveness. I think if you get all of it to work full scale you'll have something extremely fun and easy to ride.
The secret to ridiculously fast printing yet preserving quality and dimensional accuracy
is VERY SLOW outer wall, print outer walls first in exclusive mode.
Crank the speed on inner walls and infill.
Sick project man!!
oh man, i never thought of that but i love the idea. thanks.
FYI- most hydrofoils place the mast behind the wing (and therefore behind the COG) so the mast acts like a vertical stabilizer. You can get some yaw stability for free by doing this. It would act just like your current rear vertical stabilizer, but with no extra drag.
@onquarter - an excellent point ! I expect some small scale effects will disappear in a full-scale version so Daniel might build something really useful with this project. Many passport-lite visitors might want to copy this design for international maritime travel but a kayak or a windsurfer are probably much easier :-)
Differential thrust is great, but if you lose a motor you'll regret not having a rudder!
Very true, this whole build idea is pretty much seaweed catcher 9000
@@linecraftman3907 More sweep in the wings might help, but there's still the join.
There has to be a design that works, but also doesn't catch seaweed!
Since it seems like he is aggressively trying to lower the amount of surfaces needed, I think he should consider giving the 2 columns their own servos. That way he can safely remove the rudder and use the columns - which he were going to cover in flat surfaces anyway - for yaw-control.
I also wonder if one of his issues with only using the front 2 surfaces is that they were too much in the axis of gravity. As in, maybe when he tried to pitch-control, all they affected was height, and they need to be brought backwards or forwards to be able to affect pitch?
If he truly only wants one surface though, he could try to complex something more complex than a servo-controlled surface. Imagine a tube (covered in a flexible material) going backwards, that expands outwards to create whichever profile is needed at that moment. So for pitch you get a horizontal flat surface that is vertically fatter towards the rear (upwards or downwards depending on the direction to pitch), and for yaw it is same but vertical. And to roll, it makes a spiral-shaped profile (so ie. horizontal at front, then rotates towards vertical in a gradient to the rear).
Unsure how you would solve needing all controls at same time, but in worst case you simply design the morphing to happen so fast that you can pwm it to seemingly be all 3 at once (cause that is TOTALLY how water works XD, the reshaping won't disturb things _at all_ lol /s)
@@ahaveland the design is called swimming in clear water 😁
@@linecraftman3907 Unfortunately, reality doesn't comply and has other ideas!
I just noticed when your airfoil hit aerated water it lost some stability as the props lost thrust. If you're using speed regulators in water the speed of the prop isn't directly proportional to thrust when the water density varies. If you can switch from motor speed regulation to motor power regulation you might see even better results. Motor power is speed times torque or electrical current. We had to do this to have an oil rig supply ship maintain a position in the ocean next to an oil rig. If the water got choppy the water density varied a lot with time as waves turned up the water and speed regulation just didn't work well.
Excellent advice!
Dude, cool build! Remember that Brennen Monorail train built back in the day? The inventor used gyroscopes to stabilise and it which made the train lean into the turn. That would totally stabilise your platform and solve your issues.
That’s actually a very good idea. Getting it in the correct position and making sure it was stable enough even if the gyro stopped working would be the key. If he added it to the system he has it would probably work just fine.
That's a cool idea, might be hard to scale up though..
This is absolutely amazing. This is probably my favorite invention of yours yet.
Thank you for the mention! We really appreciate your support.
This is a really cool project. Looking forward to the next episode.
The fit and finish of this assembly is just awesome. Integrated hinges, wire routing, carbon spars... Hell yeah!
The best channel on here, always waiting on a new vid
He’s been spoiling us lately :D
When camping, it’s always good to see someone remembered to bring an ironing board, and it floats and rises out of the water. The Excalibur of ironing boards 😂 Great video! Unbelievable stability.
You spoil us with the best videos on CZcams. I could watch you build and engineer stuff all day. Something calming about your videos. Don't ever change. This build is EPIC!
I tried the integrated hinge design and I'm very happy. Way reduces the complexity of my alternate designs.
One thing: you have a 0.15mm part spacing in your OnShape model and I was able to make it work with much smaller spacings of 0.075mm and 0.06mm. Probably printer dependent but you do get additional strength by going as small as possible.
So glad you're making videos showcasing hydrofoils. The sport is evolving fast and it's only getting better!
I just realized this mini wake foil would be great for low angle water shots 😊 bet lots of film companies would want that
Separate from all the FPV stuff I watch you are hands down my favorite channel. Always super interesting and well executed!
Just a thought. In terms of giving preference to throttle vs. control surfaces for controling vehicle dynamics, I would intuitively lean more on control surfaces and keep different tasks assigned to different components. Over reliance on the motors for both thrust and dynamics might land you in a situation where a prop gets fouled or you lose thrust, and instead of gliding off plane you nosedive. Also, just relying on the motors will probably limit your operating speed to a very narrow window. Just my two cents. Thanks for never failing to deliver quality content!
2:42 Why did you cancle the print :(
What other printer would have a cancle button?
Because of the dimensional accuracy issues
We all know this is not how cancel is spelt, right?
23:15 I don’t think removing the vertical stab is is good idea
@@ivorjetski *cancle
Like a plane turning with only rudder and ailerons, the hydrofoil wants to pitch down(relative to the ground). To keep the bow out or the water during high speed turns, you should consider adding a little bit of up-pitch to the elevators. Like triming a plane.
Apologies if you have already considered this.
I would like to see the ailerons being used as flaps to increase lift during take off, then leveling off for flight, and maybe even reflexing a bit to aid in high speed work. The foiling Americas Cup AC75 sailboats do a similar thing with flaps on their main foil. That is one thing ive noticed in all your hydrofoil stuff, is that they work really well at 1 speed, but dont like operating through a range of speeds.
@13:42 this man is fearless getting that close to those canadian danger-chickens.
Seems like experience with these things is kicking in at this point, given how well it's worked compared to some previous projects. Hopefully there's no scaling issues when you go finish the one you can ride on. Definitely nice to see things go smooth for a change.
I think you should keep the rudder and use it to control adverse yaw like we do in sailplanes/aircraft. When you roll towards one direction the rudder can be used to correct the pitch. Now, you have the differential control on the motors, but I think that with the rudder you'll get a basic neutral track with no input and then be able to control the nose pitch with less overall drag when doing roll control.
"I love this thing so dearly! It's like my pet." 😂
The algorithm has showed this thumbnail for a week before I jumped for it, and man do I feel dumb now. This is one of the coolest and most personal projects I've ever seen. Also love to see the testing methodology. It obviously took much longer than we'll ever appreciate, but your reactions to it's relatively fast success certainly speaks to the superb initial design.
This is so much more interesting than anything else. Please make a full sized one and spend time on it
What an incredible project. Hard to believe it works so incredibly well, as a "first try". Speed range was amazing, too.
The "integration" of the servos and controls into the printed structure is genius. Shows what benefits 3D printing can bring. Love the way you're combining so many different fields and skills to create this thing. (3D printing, engineering, aerofoils, flying and boating, control systems (stabilisation) - not to mention having fun on the lake!)
Looking forward to seeing the FoilBoat...
Absolutely love these control surface hinges, I should definitely try the same.
I just tried it, works great. Really helps to have the servo mounted and perhaps another fastener on the other end just for strength. I'd recommend going for the absolute minimum flap angle possible because that really improves your hinge strength.
Generally I think that this is an unusual vehicle because it's moving through a much denser fluid than most planes (which I'm assuming your purpose would be), so it might be unnecessary to have spars through the flaps.
Check out the OnShape he released and a section view to see how he did it. I actually tried it separately then looked and ours were exactly the same.
Only comment is that he used 0.15mm spacing between the parts, and I've found that even 0.1mm has some play, so I think something like 0.05mm or just a little above would do fine, but it of course depends on what printer you're working with.
Glad you showed the counter steering effect for turn initiation and balancing with bicycle and regular stabilized foil board. I think that is going to really be critical when you put your big heavy board and yourself above it. Right now with the low CG, the ailerons and differential thrust have a large effect. I think when you get the weight up there, the ailerons will be much less effective, and differential thrust will be pretty much irrelevant and you'll need to balance it primarily using the rudder. I think the trick will be to focus on lateral balancing and pitch stability first and then mix in steering in reverse at a lower mix ratio so that the balancing effect dominates. Basically when you push the stick right, it'll kick the foil to the left, the whole vehicle tips right, and then stabilizes itself into a steady right turn.
Here is a strange idea: you know how ships have bulbous bows in order to create destructive interference with the bow wave that would normally be created, thereby increasing efficiency? I wonder if you could integrate bulbs (or control surfaces?) in front of the propellers that could generate a wave that peaks just over the propellers, allowing them to operate in effectively "deeper" water, and allowing higher speeds?
Might be able to drop the stall speed by making your ailerons act as flaps too. Also looks like some cross-coupling terms in the control would help. Throttle to flight altitude for instance. Maybe some more sonar sensors to average out waves and smooth the ride?
It's so chill!
Looking forward to seeing the full scale version.
Man your machine is super impressive! About as impressive as the absolute glass surface of the lake.
Hi There,
I saw you use silicone beneath Heatshrink tubing, I guess it worked well for you, but there a type of Heatshrink tubing meant to be weather proof (water, dust, etc., proof) called Heat-glue tubing, you just use it like Heatshrink, BUT just so you know, it is rather hard to remove once put on (it's not really a downside, since the point is to be WeatherProof)
There is also heat-shrink tubing that has heat activated PU glue inside, it foams up a bit... and is impossible to remove.
My goodness, that hydrofoil moving is gorgeous to watch! Looking forward to the bigger, human-ferrying version! 👍
You should try pressure sensors underwater instead of sonar above water, should help with waves and ripples
Waves and ripples can be filtered out electronically. Measuring a pressure underwater as a function of depth may come with systemic errors because of venturi / bernoulli factors.
There's 3rd type of hydrofoil - shallow-submerged. It works on effect of decreasing lift force when close to surface. Same effect makes your craft stable.
The sponsor is trash ! Please do not advertise for them :/ There is some ressoruces on CZcams explaining why !
It’s like a cross between Point Break and The Nutty Professor! ….in the best way possible. Total respect.
Such a cool video keep it up😊🎉
Weeds in 3..2..1 !😢
Maybe consider using the ailerons as flaps to provide direct lift control, similar to PLM on navy aircraft. It might allow you to control altitude without changing throttle (speed), or pitch attitude.
Please stop advertising for shady companies, especially when they handle sensitive stuff like medical information. That stuff is serious. Every video sponsored by that company I don't watch.
You may be able to reduce drag and increase your speed with an all flying elevator of a smaller size, may be able to hide the servo up front in the main wing with a pushrod for actuating the elevator
Please don't advertise this sponsor, they're terrible!
Interesting how you used P=2 and no integral nor D and there was no obvious error due to that.
It is probable that auto-tuning heuristics won‘t work due to all the influence from water/wind/…
Very interesting, truly enjoyed it.
Thank you for sharing your insights!
It’s a good day when I see one of your videos! Please cover the electronics and programming more in a vlog like format?
Amazing project. The sonar feature appears to work really well.
I am sure that in 15 years we will not think too much of this but, at this point in time, it is really satisfying to be able to witness and appreciate the massive rate of development in the RC world, in autonomous craft, 3D printing (both plastics and metals) as well as the rapid miniaturization of technologies in general while they keep getting more and more affordable to the average person.
Absolutely amazing.
IMO you should hold body design contests for your vehicles, just how you did with the propellers. I'm not an engineer, but I'm a vehicle body designer, I'd be super glad to participate in something like that.
I'm a kite and prone surfoiler, very impressed with this project. To me it looks like no rudder and a much slimmer and smaller stab would make it much more efficient. Your full size version will be much more difficult to keep at a steady height because you will lose the neutral buoyancy. We do this with bodyweight, but the heavier and bigger the board will be the more difficult Have a look at how America's Cup foilers solve this.
@4:30 if you would like to put the servo connector on after fishing the wires through a small hole, you can remove them from the connector housing using a bit of care and a small screwdriver to pry up the tabs that hold the crimped ends in.
Careful with rolling gains, you have 2 thin masts, which offer very little shear resistance in the horizontal direction....with scaling the forces will get higher
Haha, I'm happy to see you mentioning the inverted Pendulum phenomenon like riding a bike with the minute physics video, glad you saw my comment on the other drone foil video about it. 17:58
You should try autostable profiles like the ones used on flying wings. You would only need one wing and two control surfaces plus diff thrust to have control over all axis
"if you do a Next Step" on this project, make the "Ailerons" aerodynamically balanced so that the servos aren't holding against the lift 100% of the time... (Maybe even full flying wingtips?)..... but.... Well Done!!
Beautiful documentation of engineering thought process
That was one of your most impressive project in terme of performance! Like wtf it's so stable! It's working so well! Amazing job
i usually is one of those "negative" people telling you how you should have done then it comes to boat´s. But not this time!
Now its time to tell i am impressed and i really liked to see how you designed the 3D parts, hinges and so on. Really liked it, properly done imo!
Cant wait! Be Safe! I would like it better if your props were under the hydrofoil in case anyone ever falls off. Those props are right there. 😬
You might be able to use the ailerons as flaperons as well, deflecting them downwards should decrease takeoff velocity, and (slightly) deflectinf them upwards would decrease the lift of the main foil, increasing the speed before it breaches.
He has the talent to start an enterprise, yet he chose to make CZcams videos to entertain us. A noble choice.❤
Instead of a sonar, you may want to consider using a pressure sensor for depth. Should be less noisy in the presence of waves.
Use the same design guidelines as aircraft static ports to reduce the effect of dynamic pressure induced by speed.
Would be very cool to have a tutorial on how you do the tuning, and a simple setup with an PID controller, error-sensor and actuator.
19:05 "I heated up this rod of sticky plastic.." My dude, you ever hear of hot glue??
Omg I wish I could just buy the little RC prototype. That thing is amazing and oddly adorable.
21:21 Who needs a Surface when any laptop can be one.
Great video!
My favorite contraption so far! Congratulations and looking forward to the next iteration!
The combo of hard and software skills in 1 person is so damn strong, you are an inspiration!
Something I think would make hydrofoils like these faster would be a way to make the wing create less lift. Possibly a fabric wing that shrinks its wingspan or thickness of the hydrofoil to create less lift. Making the hydrofoil reach higher speeds to sustain such lift. Or something like those plastic lightsabers that extend out, but with a wing.
Yeah basically flaps
You perfectly combine technology and nature every time
The absolute JOY of early success with this one in the water. Awesome to watch. Congrats!
I think you can make the tail assembly at least 1/3rd of your current size, I am familiar with the Moth and Switch foilboats and the T-tail is extremely small compared to the mail foil and they just use it to trim the altitude and steer. While they use a flap on the main to automatically keep the altitude
I feel like we're finally starting to see the results of all the previous projects and what you've learned, particularly in regards to the programming.
nice man. we go swimming from that launch point every tuesday after work. roll up!
Your channel and Nicolas Rhem's are two of my favorite channels!
My favorite part was the Cancle button on the FLSUN HAHAHA.
Unbelievable stable, that's like flying but being locked in like a superconductor and a magnet. Great project
C'mon, get the Whaler on foils! Great content man
Reminds me the honey badger : whatever you throw at him, honey badger don't care 😂
I think DARPA going to recruit you soon ! Your projects are awsome !
Man I can't wait to see this series play out
It would be really slick to run push rods through the elevator tubes, so you can keep all the actuators tucked into the foil. That should let you thin out the tail to cut drag, and help out with the cable management at the same time.
Keep up the great work, Daniel. I love the content of course, but I also mean hydrodynamics, mechanical design, control systems, test planning, etc. Cheers to your continued success 🎉
Although you would need a big vertical stabilizer atthe rear, you can put the rudder at the front. Then you should be able to steer it like a bike
24:16 ok those ultra sonic sensors worked very well!!
As someone who is a novice to RC and electronics, this is incredibly cool to see. I know electric cars and modern tech use sensors to correct for smoother operation but to watch you just slap it on there and rig it up in a way that works so well with some clear examples - freaking cool af... I hope you make the boat for 2 people and document tf out of that. I would 100% give it a shot myself if it works out well for you. Subscribed!
Amazing. Genius mode achieved and activated.
As a former geek who abandoned this type of passion I say BRAVO!
You should add wings to your board after you make this whole thing to see if you can do a little jump and enter ground effect while riding.
It's kinda mind boggling - all I had to look forward to before this video and all your work was to make a Stevenson craft, which is for slow movement - still sounds like fun, but I was looking toward something in at least 30 knot range, With this, once you scale it up I think you will be in that range!!! So COOL!
differential thrust at larger scale will prove tricky with the added weight... I would definitely leave room for a rudder or a way of thrust vectoring the motors but that might be more complicated
You can get waterproof solder butt connectors to make it easier and reduce failure points on you main build. Great design!