This is another very helpful review. I'm not seeing many reviews of the Sensor, and I don't know why. Matt Sanders threw 18 strikes OOB, and had to try NOT to strike, it was that predictable.
I have been experimenting with the Track Sensor for about two weeks. 3.75" pin-PAP with the pin 6.75" from the center of the thumbhole. 5-6" of track flare, with most of it downlane. Ball is very strong and angular on a low volume 39' house shot. Changed surface to 1000; ball hooks like a Phaze II. Very strong midlane. Changed surface to 500/2000; hooks like a Zen Soul. Changed surface to 1000/compound/polish, and drilled finger holes to 2.75" deep: smoother midlane, Rotogrip HP2 territory. My impression is that the core is stronger than expected; cover is excellent and very tunable with surface.
so if you were looking for a ball later in the block or a house that has more friction or less oil lay down for a guy with slower ball speed like me between 14.5-15.0. which ball would be better this track sensor or the dv8 captiv8 ?
This ball will be way cleaner in the fronts and sharper reaction off the breakpoint than the Track Legion. The Track legion has great length and pop for a solid asym with surface but the Sensor will definitely be more angular downlane
Your tilt and rotation seem a bit low for a 4.5" pin, and the ball is rolling forward early on some shots. I'd like to see this ball (or similar low diff symm) with a 60 x 3.75" x 30 layout. Thanks for the excellent reviews.
Wouldn't the ball roll forward even MORE on dry lanes if he did a 3.75 inch pin? It would rev up faster and burn up quicker I'd think. As I watched the video, I was wondering if an even longer pin (maybe 5 inch) would help it retain a bit more tilt and or rotation just a smidge longer. Jason Sterner has several vids on the Sensor on IG and I believe he has a 5in layout. His ball seems to go sideways down lane.
@@isomhawes311 The difference in flare between 3.75" and 5" pins is minor; the main difference is that longer pins induce heavy forward roll in the midlane and shorter pins tend to hook more continuously. The main difference is the shape at the breakpoint, the bowling styles that match up to them.
@@byronfranek2706 That's interesting. My understanding is a shorter pin layout (let's say 2.5in or shorter) reduces flare, causes ball to rev up quick then roll forward. What you usually see is a smaller hook angle down lane and ball rolling forward (more controllable). Around 3 and 3/8 is max flare (widest flare pattern) and max instability. Produces most overall hook and continuous as you say. Which when enough oil is present this is a desirable outcome. But on hooking lanes, results in the ball grabbing too soon/hooking too much/too early due to the fresh footprint that occurs every rev with a wide flare pattern. Often moving left with this layout still results in ball burning too quick and hitting flat. Lastly, longer pins (5in and longer) reduce flare like shorter pins but instrad of revving quickly, they rev later. They increase the skid phase, which delay the hook and roll phase which is what you want on burnt lanes. Perhaps you do get a forward roll like you see on short pin layouts (2.5 in or less) but you get the hook and roll phases closer to the pins due to the increased skid phase. This seems desirable on lanes that are dry in the mid lane or just dry in general. You get delayed reaction ( hook later/ball doesn't burn up and it goes through the pins). Is my understanding incorrect? Of course there are variables not discussed here that can give different reactions depending on the bowler.
@@byronfranek2706 To summarize my bloated prior response my understanding was: 1. Short pin layouts = slow down sooner, less flare more forward at breakpoint. 2. Medium pins = moderate slow down, most flare, continuous at breakpoint. 3. Long pins = slow down latest, less flare, forward at breakpoint. But...medium pins can start to behave like short pins if lanes are dry enough due to the continuous fresh ball surface making contact with the lane (ball burning up). And long pins, although they roll forward, will seem continuous on dry lanes since they get to the hook and roll phase so much later down lane. I'll shut up now and wait on your reply. Really interesting in learning.
@@isomhawes311 My take on this: Pin to PAP and Pin to Thumbhole distance sets the RG value of the X-axis of the ball on symms. Shorter pins tend to flare more and retain tilt and rotation, and match up well with low rotation low tilt deliveries. Longer pins tend to flare slightly less and roll forward sooner, and match up well with high rotation high tilt deliveries. Skid phase is governed by the coverstock, surface and drilling angle (zone of asymmetry). On symms, the asymmetry will almost always be positioned along a line from the thumbhole to the pin, so there's not much you can do to change the length of the skid other than sanding the cover or using a stronger cover. Unfortunately there is dirth of good information online regarding modern ball dynamics, and much of it is myth and marketing with a bit of training wheels thrown in: Pin up hooks later, pin down earlier, etc...
This is another very helpful review. I'm not seeing many reviews of the Sensor, and I don't know why. Matt Sanders threw 18 strikes OOB, and had to try NOT to strike, it was that predictable.
Thank you. Glad you enjoyed. More to come soon
I have been experimenting with the Track Sensor for about two weeks. 3.75" pin-PAP with the pin 6.75" from the center of the thumbhole. 5-6" of track flare, with most of it downlane.
Ball is very strong and angular on a low volume 39' house shot.
Changed surface to 1000; ball hooks like a Phaze II. Very strong midlane.
Changed surface to 500/2000; hooks like a Zen Soul.
Changed surface to 1000/compound/polish, and drilled finger holes to 2.75" deep: smoother midlane, Rotogrip HP2 territory.
My impression is that the core is stronger than expected; cover is excellent and very tunable with surface.
Thank you for that input
so if you were looking for a ball later in the block or a house that has more friction or less oil lay down for a guy with slower ball speed like me between 14.5-15.0. which ball would be better this track sensor or the dv8 captiv8 ?
Imma say Captiv8. Sensor is good but you will get easier length with the Captiv8
@@boombowling6091 Cool thanks Boom ....
@@boombowling6091 How about the Scorpion Sting ?
How does the Sensor compare to the Scorpion Sting?
Sting is more for me as far as hook downlane
Great video. How would you compare this to the Track Legion Pearl?
This ball will be way cleaner in the fronts and sharper reaction off the breakpoint than the Track Legion. The Track legion has great length and pop for a solid asym with surface but the Sensor will definitely be more angular downlane
Your tilt and rotation seem a bit low for a 4.5" pin, and the ball is rolling forward early on some shots. I'd like to see this ball (or similar low diff symm) with a 60 x 3.75" x 30 layout.
Thanks for the excellent reviews.
Wouldn't the ball roll forward even MORE on dry lanes if he did a 3.75 inch pin? It would rev up faster and burn up quicker I'd think. As I watched the video, I was wondering if an even longer pin (maybe 5 inch) would help it retain a bit more tilt and or rotation just a smidge longer.
Jason Sterner has several vids on the Sensor on IG and I believe he has a 5in layout. His ball seems to go sideways down lane.
@@isomhawes311 The difference in flare between 3.75" and 5" pins is minor; the main difference is that longer pins induce heavy forward roll in the midlane and shorter pins tend to hook more continuously. The main difference is the shape at the breakpoint, the bowling styles that match up to them.
@@byronfranek2706 That's interesting. My understanding is a shorter pin layout (let's say 2.5in or shorter) reduces flare, causes ball to rev up quick then roll forward. What you usually see is a smaller hook angle down lane and ball rolling forward (more controllable).
Around 3 and 3/8 is max flare (widest flare pattern) and max instability. Produces most overall hook and continuous as you say. Which when enough oil is present this is a desirable outcome. But on hooking lanes, results in the ball grabbing too soon/hooking too much/too early due to the fresh footprint that occurs every rev with a wide flare pattern. Often moving left with this layout still results in ball burning too quick and hitting flat.
Lastly, longer pins (5in and longer) reduce flare like shorter pins but instrad of revving quickly, they rev later. They increase the skid phase, which delay the hook and roll phase which is what you want on burnt lanes. Perhaps you do get a forward roll like you see on short pin layouts (2.5 in or less) but you get the hook and roll phases closer to the pins due to the increased skid phase. This seems desirable on lanes that are dry in the mid lane or just dry in general. You get delayed reaction ( hook later/ball doesn't burn up and it goes through the pins).
Is my understanding incorrect? Of course there are variables not discussed here that can give different reactions depending on the bowler.
@@byronfranek2706 To summarize my bloated prior response my understanding was:
1. Short pin layouts = slow down sooner, less flare more forward at breakpoint.
2. Medium pins = moderate slow down, most flare, continuous at breakpoint.
3. Long pins = slow down latest, less flare, forward at breakpoint.
But...medium pins can start to behave like short pins if lanes are dry enough due to the continuous fresh ball surface making contact with the lane (ball burning up).
And long pins, although they roll forward, will seem continuous on dry lanes since they get to the hook and roll phase so much later down lane.
I'll shut up now and wait on your reply. Really interesting in learning.
@@isomhawes311 My take on this:
Pin to PAP and Pin to Thumbhole distance sets the RG value of the X-axis of the ball on symms.
Shorter pins tend to flare more and retain tilt and rotation, and match up well with low rotation low tilt deliveries.
Longer pins tend to flare slightly less and roll forward sooner, and match up well with high rotation high tilt deliveries.
Skid phase is governed by the coverstock, surface and drilling angle (zone of asymmetry). On symms, the asymmetry will almost always be positioned along a line from the thumbhole to the pin, so there's not much you can do to change the length of the skid other than sanding the cover or using a stronger cover.
Unfortunately there is dirth of good information online regarding modern ball dynamics, and much of it is myth and marketing with a bit of training wheels thrown in: Pin up hooks later, pin down earlier, etc...