Giving my Pick and Place VISION
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- čas přidán 12. 09. 2024
- Adding cameras to a pick and place lets you get way more precise with your placement! In this one I take a crack at integrating an upwards and downwards camera along with ring lights into the Index PnP.
PCBWay Board Link:
www.pcbway.com...
Patreon:
/ stephenhawes
Index Repo:
www.github.com...
Thanks to PCBWay for sponsoring this video!
I ended up leaving the lighting permanently on during the whole placement run, that made the vision much more reliable. I used CP40 nozzles and not Juki and think that made the tuning of the CV much harder. One last tip from my experience was to make sure to include a cover glass for the up camera. A home workshop where you have a mill will definitely leave dust on your camera lens over time. Can't wait to see if your design can place some 0.5mm pitch parts accurately.
I'm really enjoying this project! The camera integration is great!
Sorry to be so off topic but does anyone know a tool to log back into an instagram account?
I somehow lost the login password. I love any assistance you can give me!
@Remy Elliot Instablaster :)
Yes. That is warm. Think about finding a way for cooling the LED's especially if they are enclosed within plastic. This is good practice for every project where you will be asked to put heat producing circuitry inside a sealed plastic enclosure (it happens a lot!)
Whilst I’d heartily recommend you get a little toaster oven with external profile controller for reflowing boards, if you feel compelled to use a hot air reflow pencil, you should really consider adding some background heat (say, a little hot plate) that you sit the board on and pre-heat it to around 100C. You’ll damage far fewer parts and get more consistent results.
LOVE the single layer diffuser in your camera mount!
I did something almost identical when I made my Nano Leaf clone, I did one and two layers, depending on the color you choose two layers seems to spread the light a bit better.
The hard part is really making sure your first layer is SUPER tuned!
Great work!
When soldering LED's like this, you should heat them from bellow (back of the board) to avoid destroying them :)
Great work, love your vids
ya good point. RIP lil LED tho
if im someone without a hot air station how should i do that
@@slickm7 You use an Iron, with the PCB on top of it for example.
You are so inspiring with your positive and enthusiastic manner. And pretty nerdy with the aluminum servo horn on the chain around your neck .... , in a good way :-).
Absolutely fantastic. You deserve to have a lot of patrons. I've watched your "Final Chapter [Nov 29, 2020]" with enthusiasm. You have tackled and solved many problems.
Something about how you said "computers are so cool" is cracking me up.
Great work! You're going to need a new bench soon 😲👏💜
You will get variation in LED intensity based on how long they have been on or as the A/C cycles in the room, etc. I recommend on you led board respin to add an ambient light sensor as a feedback monitor. If I the same plane as LEDs it will pick up the back scatter off the diffuser. Your nano can then adjust the neopixel to keep the light intensity consistent. Take a look at the AMS TSL2561CL. I2C so easy to read with a nano. As sensors for it has a wide dynamic range.
Use PCBway to make a flexible PCB LED ring light. Then print a design with an angled surface relative to the camera lens and glue the flexible PCB onto that.
What a Great idea man ! In gonna do that!
Yo man.... your skills with video editing is drastically increasing. It's awesome
Awesome stuff and as always I love your energy! The diffuser design is awesome.
In the webcam video feed showing the grid paper (7:24) I think I saw some rolling shutter from the lights. Do you need to drive the lights at full intensity to avoid flickering or has that been a problem at all? I think most programmable leds have this problem when shooting video with a fast shutter speed. Driving some regular leds with a constant voltage instead of dimming with pwm or just setting the programmable leds to max brightness and using the camera exposure settings to control the brightness might be a better solution for video unless the shutter speed can be fixed to a low enough value that the led pwm does not cause issues.
Anyhow, great work with the project.
Or maybe a capacitor to smooth out the pwm? Any problems with that (maybe a diode to prevent feeding power back into the gpio)?
No need to redesign the LEDS. Just use linear polarizing filters on the led diffusers on the outside and one on the camera. If you rotate them correctly you get cross polarization which negates all specular reflections which means glare is totally killed. Some filters from the 3d movies should do it!
Something in this spirit would most likely solve the glare issue: www.ebay.com/itm/153680087193 you can get polarizing film from Ponoko and laser cut your own solution.
That's a really interesting idea!
I'm rooting for your continued success. I enjoy watching your progress. Thanks.
WOW I like to think you took my previous comment on board but thank you this a very watchable and interesting video. This is the first time I've managed to watch one all the way through - nice
This is coming along really nicely! Looking great! 👍
If you put out a full plan, parts list (BOM), firmware, instructions, gerbers, and 3D files for this, you guys are going to be the savior of thousands of people who have been following OpenPnP with enthusiastic interest but bewildered by the choices.
Se siente la pasión y la dedicación a lo que hace, excelente trabajo.
No pare de hacer contenido amigo.
Saludos desde colombia.
Stephen, even though I have a Neoden 4 coming ... I :LOVE: your project... so right there with you I am building an Index and innovating alongside you.
I really like that you have gone with RS485... Ring was nice, but RS485 is what PLC's and other industrial automation have been using for ages. I have a 3D printing fix for the lighting using transparent PLA and acrylic light pipes that should take care of getting even lighting in the same way that LCD panel backlights work.
If you mount next to your upward camera a stepper motor with a small turntable, you can place the part and rotate it then pick it up and check with the camera before placing the part on the board.
This man is so smart and intelligente. Hopefully I can learn something by building a machine like this even if I have no clue what to do yet
As always Steve, your 3d prints are looking good!
Quality video, my guy!
U can design the diffuser with an angle that will give same effect as mounting led at an angle. No need to design new board
Ohh, now you get to figure out how to tune the pipelines. 😅 Awesome work as always!
Great progress! Got a laugh out of me with "bad cad"
Also, weirdly enough, sticking some torn up cotton balls in-between your led and the single layer print may help diffuse
Looking really great!
Great video as always Stephen! For your light angle problem, have you considerd doing something with light pipes on top of the existing pcb?
Wow! Your work is awesome!
How about a flex-PCB for those angled LEDs?....
Stephen just thought to himself: Yeah, I need a bit more dust in here! Let's get the Dremel to make that camera hole perfect 😂
first of all nice project. I work with an ASM sipplace our ccp head has also 2 component sensors. Sometimes the head losses a component while moving. So then you get an alarm. i believe it uses just a smal laser sensor but i'm not 100% sure.
When it comes to difusion if you butcher an old laptop/lcd screen there is a plastic film behind the actual lcd that is ment to spread the backlight's light... and it can be cut with a knife or what ever to any shape.
Check if you can't score one of em for free where people throw their junk near you :)
Nice video & editing. A entertaining view, thank you. I appreciate the notations about what didn't work.
My experience with going through CZcamss on pick-place machines, they go through the mechanical build "..now take a nut driver..." & then skip to "oh look, it works!" as the machine magically places components.
A nice CZcams disclaimer would be: "This 10 minute video shows (X) weeks of elapsed time of a (credentials) engineer with (Y) years of experience using (list of tools & instumentation)...... this video skips over (Z) weeks of debugging error messages..."
I am entering my 4th week of a build & debug.
Great project!! I've been doing CNC machines for a long time, but PnP is a new level. I want to make a car like this. What web cameras are used in this project? For the second week, I've been looking for information in your videos and in stores. Thank you for your work.
I just spotted my name on your table, cool! :-D its adding up really fast, you'll need a bigger table
This is sutch an underrated channel >~
Can you please provide a link to the source for you cameras. Great work, very informative.
Great informative video! Question... Which camera's did you use? Or rather what are the camera requirements for OpenPNP? Cheers
I am awestruck this is fantastic and I work as an electronics engineer
I see you soldering by hand. You talked about the hot air soldering with your pnp aswell. But... I have a oven here, that is about 40 bij 30 bij 30cm, without a controller but with a thermometer. I takes me 5 minutes to solder a full plate of boards. The oven was second hand and cost €17.
I would prever 3 Points on the Board, so the Vision system can exactly dectect, how the PCB is oriented.
Because with two points you have 2 Positions, in which the PCB can be oriented. If it is false oriented, the p&p-System will place the parts on the false positions...
Just print a thin cone diffuser and install it from above the mdf. Combined there should be no spots.
for your consideration: WWA SK6812 leds might work better for your application than RGB(W?) WS2812s. they are neopixels, but have three different temperature white leds in it rather than rgb
Very nice! Do you think mounting it all on a pressboard won't give you problem with precision? I would guess that for PnP machines every fraction of a millimeter is important...
Suggestion for the cameras: Use a 5-pin connector (+5V GND D+ D- and LED) on both ends, instead of running 2 cables to each camera.
I think also what this machine needs is also to check the parts is placed correctly afterwards...that would be great
I really love your videos!
Last time I've asked you if it's possible to reflow soldering with a laser what do you think about that?
Maybe you can try adding a bit more solder to one side of the LEDs to kinda of solder them a little bit tipped?
Awesome work I love your videos ❤
Could you print a fresnel lens pattern on the inside of the diffuser? That might be a better alternative than trying to mount the LEDs on an angle.
Would a mirror on the gantry that is moved under the picked part not be a good idea: the downward facing camera can then look at the part. One camera less and a faster PNP process because you don't need to go to the fixed upward camera location. Just wondering
почему вы не объединили плату освещения и плату камеры вместе?
why didn't you combine the lighting board and the camera board together?
Great Job...
Nice, awesome as always :D
Instead of angling the LED's can you make an angled diffuser? Cone shaped 3d printed?
on the openpnp github page it says that you need two usb busses for two cameras to work properly
Some cameras don't play nice, when two are connected to the same USB root hub. The easiest solution is to just plug the cameras into different USB Ports in your motherboard.
I'm starting to build this for myself )
Damn... this shit is hard to follow when you're Drunk and digging holes haha
What kind of camera is this? And did you change the lense?
What cable length do you recommend for the downwards facing camera?
I cannot get the camera to show up :(((, all it show is a black screen with a read X in the conner
WOO!
You are awesome
I’m just commenting to help the algorythm
what is the name of the cameras you are using?
Nice
Hello bro can you make video on how you have configured open PNP software tutorial to make one simple projects how to set all required step by step setting in open PNP software also how software open PNP communicate with you stepper motor how you have made this in detail you are awesome
I am too building pnp with you with your design
bad idea
@@nick5625 thinking
BOB why?
@@wailshire because it has more flaws to rectify
And he is in the process of making
You could have used a bow tie for the light ring!!!!!!!!!!!
Hi Stephen, Great work! I really like your approach for building this machine. Where did you buy the camera module? Regarding soldering: did you already take a look at hotplate soldering? czcams.com/video/akagoxqmalI/video.html
legal
liubihonghong
Get better connectors instead of pin headers.
run 24v
You go too fast with the hot gun :-D wait for 30 s at a longer distance to let the PCB and part heat up, then approach and magic happens ;-) Sorry but I couldn't help my self making this comment, I already saw you burn a couple of components...