2010 Ford Fusion Front Brake and Rotor Replacement or Change / Mercery Milan
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- čas přidán 21. 09. 2017
- Long time overdue, but here are the fronts.
Disclaimer: I am not a mechanic nor claim to be. I wanted to help others with showing how the change the front brakes on their 2010 Ford Fusion. Feel free to post comments and suggestions in the comment section.
Also feel free to give a shout-out to my wife for her amazing video work. - Jak na to + styl
Okay. Just changed my brakes, rotors and 1 caliper. This video was VERY useful and I will never pay to get my brakes done again. Very grateful
i guess Im quite off topic but does anybody know of a good place to watch newly released series online?
@Misael Zahir i dunno try flixportal. Just google for it=) -elon
@Elon Misael thanks, signed up and it seems to work :) I really appreciate it !!
@Misael Zahir happy to help =)
Thank you for making this and rear brake video. Watched both several times. Ordered quality components, to include pad clips and new boots, and completed the job (front & rear) myself. Thanks to you, saved hundreds of $$.
Thank you for a awesome but yet precise breaking down of a brake replacement video👍...
Just use the old brake pad between the C clamp and caliper piston when compressing piston. Covers the piston as it normally would and you're going to discard the old pads anyway. Works great.
Yep
Watched this video as I did them. Very helpful and straightforward. I had to pick up the sockets (kids lost the others lol) and knowing the sizes saved a lot of time and money. The torx as well. I would have been pissed had I gotten there and didn’t have that tool. Much appreciated. Great camera work as well!! She’s a pro!
Thanks for the comments and compliments to the wife. I couldn't get such great shots without her.
Thanks man this was so helpful!!
I think you just saved my Saturday!
Glad i could help!
Appreciate this video! Was doing the rear and the tool I purchased broke while trying to push the caliper piston in. Not sure how I’ll get it off but, thanks for the video!
Thank you ! Your video helps to save mucho dinero...
YOU DID GREAT...THANK YOU
Thank you so much!
Thanks very helpful
Thanks brother
about to do this in the morning
I’m doing mine next week
I know you're just a backyard mechanic but a good rule of thumb is replace the clips. I personally put sil glide on them and not anti seize because it is not a lubricant. Anti seize has small granuals in it. You're wanting those pads to slide when braking and releasing. Sil glide is a God sent. Just my two cents I've learned from doing hundreds of brakes.
Thanks for providing your input. I would agree that replacing the clips is generally a good idea. Some kits do not come with the replacement clips, so you might be stuck with using the old ones if you didn't plan ahead. I like the idea of using sil glide as well. It's probably a better compound to use vs anti-seize. I saw another mechanic using anti-seize so that's why I used it.
Thank you!!!!
The screw that holds the rotor to the hub can be used to get the rotor off if you notice the threaded hole on rotor that screw fits there it will help push the rotor off
I know about this method, but I do not prefer it. The reason is because I have heard of people getting the screw broken off in the rotor. Not a big deal if you place to replace the rotor, but something to keep in mind.
I didn't show it in the video, but if you put some PB blaster or penetrating oil near the inner part of the rotor where the hub makes contact. It can make it quite a bit easier to remove if you have problems. This can easily be seen at 6:50 where to put the oil once you see the separation of the rotor from the wheel hub.
You did a pretty good job. You should also put brake grease on the slide clips and the back of the pads not anti seize, in extreme braking conditions it will fail as a lubricant. Grease Helps reduce any noise. You should also loctite the caliper bolts
@Stephan Paris "I've never heard of" Yea, but what's your experience doing it? None. So what do you know ? What is Anti-Seize? Anti-seize products are applied to bolts, fasteners, flanges and other clamped interfaces to prevent galling, seizing and corrosion, as well as lubricating to ease disassembly. So ... what would be bad about doing that to the caliper bolts........ do you think it will make it slip out and loose cause you're some kind of pea brained idiot ? What's wrong with not wanting the bolts to sieze after you run into that problem over and over? Use loctite so you can sit there for 40 mins with pb blaster huh ? Lol. Go get some life experience.
Hey J, the search engine put your vid up top 3 vids for a "2010 Ford Fusion Rear Brakes" search. I bet if you do an edit, put all the tools you used in video on a clean towel or a purty lady handing you a wrench, as the intro photo, you will get a tonne more hits. Whats that worth?.uh..Fame? Thanks for posting, really helped me get the job done.
Thanks
Nice! Those slide clips fall off a lot (for me) kind of frustrating but still doable
I did this job back in March last year and I thought I did everything right but recently my car is very unstable when braking at high speeds above 55 mph+. There is a severe shaking at the front brakes and my steering wheel vibrates too (although that could just be because the wheels are feeling the effects of the brakes) if I had to actually brake hard to avoid rear ending someone I’m afraid my front brakes will fail completely. Any ideas why this happened? I’m 100% guessing but Do you think it could be my caliper guide pin bolts or something?
Did you replace your rotors? If you get a pulsating when you brake it usually means your rotors are warped. If you get a pulsating at high speeds without braking usually that means your tires are out of balance and need balanced and rotated. You may also want to check to make sure all of your lug nuts are torque to specification. I really doubt it would be your caliper guide pins that are the issue. However again I'm not a mechanic this is how I would troubleshoot the issue
jharmon203 Brand new rotors and pads and even brake hardware. Even added a dab of lubricant on the hardware so the pads slide in and out easier. Unless I have bad torque wrench or something my wheels are torqued at 105 ft lbs and I used the same torque wrench on the caliper bracket bolts so and I used medium strength loctite on nearly every bolt except lug nuts. So idk. I’m taking it to FireStone tomorrow when I get my oil change and have them take a look at it. It’s pretty dangerous on the highway. I say caliper guide pin bolts because I did add a very tiny amount of loctite on them because when I took them out it seemed like they added it before.
How could I have bought brand “new” warped rotors ugh
@@RzVids one hard brake can warp your rotor. Did you say you put lock tite on your guide pins?
jharmon203 On the guide pin bolt, the bolt you screw in 19:42. Very little loctite
Personally I would not put locktite on the bolts that touch the guide pins. If any of it gets on the guide pins, this could seize it. What did your shop end up finding out? If you haven't taken it in yet, perhaps look at the guide pins yourself to make sure they are moving freely.
So when changing the Calipers as well. Are they the same size or no?
Are you referring to changing the entire caliper assembly?
Does the 2009 need the tool for the front calipers to compress the piston or can i just use a regular C clamp like on the 2010?
If I were you, I would rent the tool just in case and also purchase a C clamp. I am not sure, but having both on hand won't break the bank and you can return the C clamp if you don't use it.
I just did mine, and was good to go with my wood clamp. Make sure you compress the piston as far as you can, otherwise you'll have a fight getting the piston back on with new brake pads.
Rear only needs the tool because of rear brakes having the emergency brake.
Do you need an impact wrench to get those torx bolts off or will a good ole breaker bar work just fine?
Anything can really work. The trick is keeping the rotors still to get them out. Impact driver makes it the easiest.
jharmon203 Perfect. Hopefully mine aren’t too bad.
On my rear brakes, I just used a 3/8 drive T40 socket and ratchet and had no problems getting it out. On the rear it was the 13 mm bolts that held the bracket in that were corroded (only on the last 1/4 of bolt) took a lot of force to get off.
I just had to drill one out on good friday it was rusty but I'm from a state that uses salt and everything.
Do not use a breaker bar you will strip the bolts (Yea ask how I know right?). Use an impact driver take em out real quick.
Is this the same as Hybrid
What are the lug nuts size? 19mm font work. No to 25/32. 13/16 No to the Ford lug wrench.
Just one question doesn't your rotor move or shake without the "rotor screws"??????
Not at all, the lugs are what keep it secure, not those tiny bolts
@@soccerharms okay thank you will try tomorrow
Why can't you use anti-seize on the caliper guide bolts?
Because it will actually seize up the bolts. I have experienced this myself. I had to use a flat head screwdriver and a hammer to pound them out. Zero movement. Stick to using that silglide or any other high temp silicon lubricate (non-petroleum) and you should be good to go.
jharmon203 On my '10 Milan, one caliper pin was about 1/4"-1/2" longer than the other but I didn't notice if it came out of the top or bottom hole. Any chance you'd know?
@@soccerharms I just had a tech tell me he came across recently a job with a seized pins. Anti seize was applied instead of the silicon grease.
How did the Raybesto rotors work out?
They worked great.
Don’t you have to torque to specifications?
Piece of wire can be used to hold caliper
15:37 you're welcome
15:40 is when the break pad job continues
Can you buy those clips at a parts store and do you know what there called??
yes you should be able to, but I usually buy a brake pad kit that has them with them.
same exact break system as a 2013 mazda 6 ,, even says ford on my break caliper , always use new hardware, never ever lub the hardware... only lub under the hardware, and caliper ears and piston.... this is why you always use new hardware.. watch south main auto , He has done over 10,000 brake jobs, Watch one of his brake jobs the way he lubs them is the correct way.. I had nothing but trouble doing the way you’re doing it... I learned the hard way
Anticize is not a brake pad lubricant.
Never put anti-seize on bolts that are torqued to spec. The value will not be the same = much more.
I do agree with you on one part that the torque rating will be higher. However, you can reduce the torque rating a bit if you want. Personally, the idea of a seized bolt doesn't sit well with me so I am willing to over torque a bit which I don't think will be that detrimental.
Exactly the opposite of what he did is correct. You should apply medium strength threadlocking compound on delta S torqued bolts(the caliper bracket bolts). Anti-seize is a no-no for those bolts.
Props to this guy for trying but I would not advise to follow this for instructional DIY. There would be about a 50% chance or higher you’ll have issues with your brakes or premature failure. A lot of steps missed or done incorrectly.
Do not put anti seize on the bracket bolt! Loctite! I know this video is old but I came across it and amongst other things seeing that 😮
I hate the little screws holding the rotors. They are a pain in the a...
Get a jack stand under that car, have been victim to a falling jack while raising a farm impliment.
I couldn't agree more! I had jack stands on the car I believe. I think you couldn't see them though. Always always always use jackstands and I tend to release the pressure from the jack to put it on the jack stands, but also keep contact with the jack for extra protection.
Those rotors are shot