Hello, I bought a tool from Bmw that works great removing all ig coil packs, it's a rachet wrench style with broken end pivot and of course slotted head attach zone. (Source were found on bmw1600 forum) Question. After valve cover bolts removed, what best way to remove cover? Saving the gasket if possible
For torquing those two hard to reach fasteners you could measure the length of your wrench, do the math to calculate how much equivalent force needs to be applied, and use a piece of string tied to your wrench and a spring scale to get it really close.
Air distribution line was great fun to remove, I think I send about 1 hr heating and gently prying out. I managed to remove it in one piece but I was really sweating. I put on the rubber seals that go into openings some high temperature rubber lubricant to ease up next removal.
I probably overheated mine a little but they pop in and out a little easier now. I have no idea what BMW was thinking there. I've got a theory one could find some off the shelf plumbing and some quick disconnects to each of the 3 connect points that would take the place of that dumb piece of plastic.
Great vids guy! I'm impressed and you took your time. What state you live in? I have a GT and would love to save $$$ and do this myself but man, what a bunch of steps we have to take just to get to the valves lol.
Hello, I bought a tool from Bmw that works great removing all ig coil packs, it's a rachet wrench style with broken end pivot and of course slotted head attach zone. (Source were found on bmw1600 forum)
Question. After valve cover bolts removed, what best way to remove cover? Saving the gasket if possible
For torquing those two hard to reach fasteners you could measure the length of your wrench, do the math to calculate how much equivalent force needs to be applied, and use a piece of string tied to your wrench and a spring scale to get it really close.
Air distribution line was great fun to remove, I think I send about 1 hr heating and gently prying out. I managed to remove it in one piece but I was really sweating. I put on the rubber seals that go into openings some high temperature rubber lubricant to ease up next removal.
I used Sil-Glyde to lube the grommets. Hopefully things will be easier next time. I'd hate to find out what that line costs. Thanks for watching.
The price of the line is actually not that bad $68 in the US, I checked the price before removal to find out how costly my mistake can be.
I probably overheated mine a little but they pop in and out a little easier now. I have no idea what BMW was thinking there. I've got a theory one could find some off the shelf plumbing and some quick disconnects to each of the 3 connect points that would take the place of that dumb piece of plastic.
i wonder if you could pop off those 3 covers instead... looks like 4 torx bolts holding each cover on - im in the middle of it right now -
Instead of accessing the crankshaft you can remove the plugs, put bike in gear, and use rear wheel to rotate motor.
Great vids guy! I'm impressed and you took your time. What state you live in? I have a GT and would love to save $$$ and do this myself but man, what a bunch of steps we have to take just to get to the valves lol.
Ohio.
@@jamestruxal103 all your videos are very helpful James. Can you tell me what crash bars you installed?
@@emehlig Altrider bars. Thanks for watching.
Some have suggested a string as a cheat for those hard to get coils.
I'd probably just replace the air distro tube just to be sure it doesn't fail after removal. Owners manual is damned useless too!