Hi again. I'm now trying to fix noisy final drives on my Selectamatic DB880. I didn't know those were adjusted with shims ! Takes just a few thou and you're in trouble. We're about to finish the more noisy one. David Brown have put high quality made in England Timken tapered roller bearing in their final drives. They are pretty much like new. I changed only one and bought shims, O rings and new seals to adjust pinion shaft and carrier. I'd say that there are issues here : One - It's pretty hard to remove pinion cap without taking the whole final drive assembly out. Two - I don't know if David Brown dealers told the buyer at the time that it would need to be adjust on a regular base. Adding shims on pinion shaft and removing some on the carrier. Three - Shims were not the best option of adjustment in my point of view. But I'm nearly done and learned something new on DB's tractors. I will put 75/140 synthetic oil in final drives at the end. Only hope it will help the kill the noise at least a bit. I'm thinking of putting 80/90 gear oil in the transmission. What I've put last year was TDH oil. Your thoughts please ? At the time, farmers were probably putting 80/90 and not TDH. Thanks for answering.
My 880 can be a pain to get air out the system I've made a little spanner that fits the injectors up under the bonnet not much room to work there my filters stay clean change them every 5 years but even on white diesel my sediment bowl gets sludge yet I've drained out the fuel tank and it's perfectly clean. Great video as per usual
Howdy Jon! It died again on me but I figured out the problem. Used the wrong gasket on the top of the first filter and air was sucking in there too. Changed it out yesterday and all is golden now. I got tired of reaching up inside the bonnet/hood and just took it off completely 🙂
Hi. Are you also experiencing noise from the final drives on your 880 ? Mine is a 1968. We're working on one of both final drive right now. Really need precise adjustments with thin shims. Thanks for answering.
Hi Shane the smile on your face when that fires off is brilliant, no such things as failures just opertunities to gain more experience, well done she sounds awesome. just returned from Norfolk where it reached 32.6deg C some I feel for you out in the sun it's not pleasant. Great video, very brave man doing diesel filters with cream trousers on, I always end up swimming in it. Brilliant Barry
That early 990 engine is the sweetest sounding compared to the later ones-, I had problems with my 1594 the fuel pipe that goes round the back of the engine to the filter block was partially choked if it dies again it’d blow out the lines it’ll surprise u the gunk that comes out,
Hi Jim! I absolutely love the way it sounds. It did die again on me, but I figured it out. I used the wrong gasket on the top of the front filter. Apparently there's a larger gasket that's marked with stripe in the kit that's supposed to go on the top. Fixed it all up yesterday and it's working great now. Also blew out the line from the bowl over to the filter and was pretty clean actually. Was quite surprised.
Replace mine Saturday, years ago I tried a different fuel brand with lot of difficulty. The David Brown Forum uk suggested using OEM cav 296. I have much better luck with the 296 fuel filters
It's a bit of a chore getting the fuel bled up through the filters on these David Browns. I write the date on the filters when changing them,😀 where you can see it. It reminds you when next to change them if your not going by hours. M
Hi Marshall! You ain't kidding! Disturbing the fuel system lines when they'd never given me any problems made me quite nervous. But now I know what to look for and do, so should be simpler in the future, lol. Good idea to write the date on the filters!
Hi Shane. Good job and it looks like you got there in the end. Still jealous of your 990 in original condition. 90 degrees might be uncomfortable to work in but it keeps the rust away compared to the damp old UK. I am new to changing fuel filters but I’d say your system was pretty clean. A previous owner of my tractor put the wrong gauze in the lift pump that had a hole in the middle you could drive a bus through. Needless to say, the first filter was filthy.
Hi David! Messing with a fuel system that I've never had any problem with was quite nerve-racking! Of course I introduced more problems. I also had the wrong gasket at the top of the first filter and it was sucking air in there too. Apparently for the filter kit I got, one gasket was slightly bigger and marked with a stripe. It goes on top. Once I got that swapped out for the right one and nipped up the joints better, all was good. Learning!
There quite easy to bleed shane,you need clean fuel and somebody to tighten fuel lines.stay away from that starter fluid,also there's an additive to keep your diesel from gunning up,tha 990 sounds real good.
That's rare, an ad4/47a with a fuel shut off. But the 447 is a pretty good engine to work on, and its quite normal to find that amount of garbage in the lift pump bowl.
Hi there, thanks for watching and commenting! I *think* my dad put the fuel shutoff valve on it several years ago. There was a leak somewhere in the fuel lines at one point and I think he put it on there to keep the tank from draining over time if it sat up for several months. You're right, the ad4/47's are really fun and easy to work on. Now that I know how to bleed everything I'm going to empty out and clean that bowl more often. I was sooooo nervous about this whole adventure! Disturbing a fuel line system that's never given me any problems was daunting! 😄
This was the very first time I'd ever changed fuel filters out on a tractor. I was as nervous as a cat in a room full of rocking chairs! AND I was in the middle of the woods. 20 miles away from the tool box or store, hoping I'd brought everything I'd need. This was more nerve wracking than the valve chest stuff! :-)
Good job man i know all about david browns tractors but zetor tractors are a way easier to get air out of fuel system sometines no need to open bleed screw just pump air out and start and zetor were ahead of their time with all standard extras
I changed the fuel filters on my 990 Implematic recently. Each filter kit included two sizes of O ring. The smaller one goes under the head of the centre bolt. The trouble is to fit it the bolt has to be completely withdrawn. This means either removing the exhaust manifold (didn’t fancy that) or removing the filter body from the block. I would have done this but the problem I encountered was undoing the fuel line connections. Because of the pipe one is restricted to an open ended spanner and I was in danger of of rounding the corners. So decided to leave well alone and relied on the old O rings. Seems OK but if it starts to leak I’ll know why!
I didn't even see a place to use the smallest o-ring on mine. I figured it'd go on the bolt, but I wasn't too keen on trying to get those bolts out! I'll keep an eye on it though and see if it leaks. Thanks for watching!
Don't use either on a diesel engine. It dries the oil that coats the cylinders, which can result in a shattered ring or worse. It also ignites too early and is more of a crack instead of a bang like diesel fuel when it ignites stressing out everything. Use an old-school propane torch. Turn it on without lighting it, then stick it in the pipe where the air filter is and crank it. I personally use a heat gun on the intake manifold. It works great !
Agree with you on the ether, I don't like using it, and I've never used it on this tractor thankfully! That's interesting about using propane, that's a new one for me. Thanks a bunch!
Don't think it should be that hard to put the fuel filters on. Looks like the metal top is bent? When changing filters on my db990 it didn't have the top metal thing. Maybe because it's UK. Great video. Your previous videos on fixing your hydrolics has helped me alot cheers
Thanks for watching and for the comment! Glad the previous vids have been helpful! The metal thingy at the top was only on the first filter. I'm not entirely sure if the fuel filter housing had been replaced at some point with another one.
@@path.of.discoveryhi Shane, when you pulled the first filter of you left the top of the filter internals in the housing, get back in there and have a look, that filter should go in to place with no resistance at all like the second one, done dozens of those on my Browns, 800,885,950,990,1212 ,1694. Nice useful vids.👍
on my 1294 CASE (db engine) filter bolt bleed fuel drips on to oil dip stik at frame. 15:46 fyi my engine has a freeze plug with heater installed near were the fuel line goes up to #1 new lift pump just installed. 🐺
Hello can you please help me please but im having same problem but keep bleeding it keeps on getting airlock go round tightin everything done all injetors everything to do with fuel keeps happening
Maybe you need a new primer pump. If the rubber diaphragm is cracked, air is going to be pump in the system by the crack in the diaphragm in the primer pump. Just had this problem with my db 995. The engine was always air locked after 30 min. Now that i changed the primer pump, it runs fine
Hi again. I'm now trying to fix noisy final drives on my Selectamatic DB880. I didn't know those were adjusted with shims ! Takes just a few thou and you're in trouble. We're about to finish the more noisy one. David Brown have put high quality made in England Timken tapered roller bearing in their final drives. They are pretty much like new. I changed only one and bought shims, O rings and new seals to adjust pinion shaft and carrier. I'd say that there are issues here : One - It's pretty hard to remove pinion cap without taking the whole final drive assembly out. Two - I don't know if David Brown dealers told the buyer at the time that it would need to be adjust on a regular base. Adding shims on pinion shaft and removing some on the carrier. Three - Shims were not the best option of adjustment in my point of view. But I'm nearly done and learned something new on DB's tractors. I will put 75/140 synthetic oil in final drives at the end. Only hope it will help the kill the noise at least a bit. I'm thinking of putting 80/90 gear oil in the transmission. What I've put last year was TDH oil. Your thoughts please ? At the time, farmers were probably putting 80/90 and not TDH. Thanks for answering.
My 880 can be a pain to get air out the system I've made a little spanner that fits the injectors up under the bonnet not much room to work there my filters stay clean change them every 5 years but even on white diesel my sediment bowl gets sludge yet I've drained out the fuel tank and it's perfectly clean. Great video as per usual
Howdy Jon! It died again on me but I figured out the problem. Used the wrong gasket on the top of the first filter and air was sucking in there too. Changed it out yesterday and all is golden now. I got tired of reaching up inside the bonnet/hood and just took it off completely 🙂
Hi. Are you also experiencing noise from the final drives on your 880 ? Mine is a 1968. We're working on one of both final drive right now. Really need precise adjustments with thin shims. Thanks for answering.
Hi Shane the smile on your face when that fires off is brilliant, no such things as failures just opertunities to gain more experience, well done she sounds awesome.
just returned from Norfolk where it reached 32.6deg C some I feel for you out in the sun it's not pleasant.
Great video, very brave man doing diesel filters with cream trousers on, I always end up swimming in it.
Brilliant
Barry
Yes, I was very, very happy! Yeah, those color pants and working on tractors isn't the best combination!
Lookin to buying a DB 1210. Hopefully your video will help get the tractor to start. Hasn't ran in a few years.
That early 990 engine is the sweetest sounding compared to the later ones-, I had problems with my 1594 the fuel pipe that goes round the back of the engine to the filter block was partially choked if it dies again it’d blow out the lines it’ll surprise u the gunk that comes out,
Hi Jim! I absolutely love the way it sounds. It did die again on me, but I figured it out. I used the wrong gasket on the top of the front filter. Apparently there's a larger gasket that's marked with stripe in the kit that's supposed to go on the top. Fixed it all up yesterday and it's working great now. Also blew out the line from the bowl over to the filter and was pretty clean actually. Was quite surprised.
Replace mine Saturday, years ago I tried a different fuel brand with lot of difficulty. The David Brown Forum uk suggested using OEM cav 296. I have much better luck with the 296 fuel filters
I'll have to try those filters out next time I do it! Thanks for the comment!
It's a bit of a chore getting the fuel bled up through the filters on these David Browns. I write the date on the filters when changing them,😀 where you can see it. It reminds you when next to change them if your not going by hours. M
Hi Marshall! You ain't kidding! Disturbing the fuel system lines when they'd never given me any problems made me quite nervous. But now I know what to look for and do, so should be simpler in the future, lol. Good idea to write the date on the filters!
Great job showing how to service the 990.
Thanks for watching and for the comment!
Hi Shane. Good job and it looks like you got there in the end. Still jealous of your 990 in original condition. 90 degrees might be uncomfortable to work in but it keeps the rust away compared to the damp old UK. I am new to changing fuel filters but I’d say your system was pretty clean. A previous owner of my tractor put the wrong gauze in the lift pump that had a hole in the middle you could drive a bus through. Needless to say, the first filter was filthy.
Hi David! Messing with a fuel system that I've never had any problem with was quite nerve-racking! Of course I introduced more problems. I also had the wrong gasket at the top of the first filter and it was sucking air in there too. Apparently for the filter kit I got, one gasket was slightly bigger and marked with a stripe. It goes on top. Once I got that swapped out for the right one and nipped up the joints better, all was good. Learning!
Nice sound
There quite easy to bleed shane,you need clean fuel and somebody to tighten fuel lines.stay away from that starter fluid,also there's an additive to keep your diesel from gunning up,tha 990 sounds real good.
Yep, very easy once I've did it a couple of times. I'm definitely staying away from starting fluid! Thanks for the comment and thanks for watching!
Older,models,sound,sweeter,no,doubt,mufled,better,🙋🧲💐
That's rare, an ad4/47a with a fuel shut off.
But the 447 is a pretty good engine to work on, and its quite normal to find that amount of garbage in the lift pump bowl.
Hi there, thanks for watching and commenting! I *think* my dad put the fuel shutoff valve on it several years ago. There was a leak somewhere in the fuel lines at one point and I think he put it on there to keep the tank from draining over time if it sat up for several months. You're right, the ad4/47's are really fun and easy to work on. Now that I know how to bleed everything I'm going to empty out and clean that bowl more often. I was sooooo nervous about this whole adventure! Disturbing a fuel line system that's never given me any problems was daunting! 😄
Good job for first attempt
This was the very first time I'd ever changed fuel filters out on a tractor. I was as nervous as a cat in a room full of rocking chairs! AND I was in the middle of the woods. 20 miles away from the tool box or store, hoping I'd brought everything I'd need. This was more nerve wracking than the valve chest stuff! :-)
Good job man i know all about david browns tractors but zetor tractors are a way easier to get air out of fuel system sometines no need to open bleed screw just pump air out and start and zetor were ahead of their time with all standard extras
I changed the fuel filters on my 990 Implematic recently. Each filter kit included two sizes of O ring. The smaller one goes under the head of the centre bolt. The trouble is to fit it the bolt has to be completely withdrawn. This means either removing the exhaust manifold (didn’t fancy that) or removing the filter body from the block. I would have done this but the problem I encountered was undoing the fuel line connections. Because of the pipe one is restricted to an open ended spanner and I was in danger of of rounding the corners. So decided to leave well alone and relied on the old O rings. Seems OK but if it starts to leak I’ll know why!
I didn't even see a place to use the smallest o-ring on mine. I figured it'd go on the bolt, but I wasn't too keen on trying to get those bolts out! I'll keep an eye on it though and see if it leaks. Thanks for watching!
Don't use either on a diesel engine. It dries the oil that coats the cylinders, which can result in a shattered ring or worse. It also ignites too early and is more of a crack instead of a bang like diesel fuel when it ignites stressing out everything. Use an old-school propane torch. Turn it on without lighting it, then stick it in the pipe where the air filter is and crank it. I personally use a heat gun on the intake manifold. It works great !
Agree with you on the ether, I don't like using it, and I've never used it on this tractor thankfully! That's interesting about using propane, that's a new one for me. Thanks a bunch!
very helpful
Don't think it should be that hard to put the fuel filters on. Looks like the metal top is bent? When changing filters on my db990 it didn't have the top metal thing. Maybe because it's UK.
Great video. Your previous videos on fixing your hydrolics has helped me alot cheers
Thanks for watching and for the comment! Glad the previous vids have been helpful! The metal thingy at the top was only on the first filter. I'm not entirely sure if the fuel filter housing had been replaced at some point with another one.
@@path.of.discoveryhi Shane, when you pulled the first filter of you left the top of the filter internals in the housing, get back in there and have a look, that filter should go in to place with no resistance at all like the second one, done dozens of those on my Browns, 800,885,950,990,1212 ,1694.
Nice useful vids.👍
If engine runs beed again.
The problem is the handpump is on the other side of the engine
You can not See if there is still air in it
on my 1294 CASE (db engine) filter bolt bleed fuel drips on to oil dip stik at frame.
15:46 fyi my engine has a freeze plug with heater installed near were the fuel line goes up to #1
new lift pump just installed. 🐺
Hello can you please help me please but im having same problem but keep bleeding it keeps on getting airlock go round tightin everything done all injetors everything to do with fuel keeps happening
Maybe you need a new primer pump. If the rubber diaphragm is cracked, air is going to be pump in the system by the crack in the diaphragm in the primer pump. Just had this problem with my db 995. The engine was always air locked after 30 min. Now that i changed the primer pump, it runs fine
@@francoisgirard2306 thank you I put old one back on cleaned it up working perfectly now haha