Very useful video, thanks for taking the time to produce it (ten years ago, lol). After watching this, and in an attempt to reduce the over-spray and aerosols I tried using a hog bristle brush and it worked very nicely indeed. A little agitation adds to the even effect but it encourages you to lean over the surface so I will be using a paint brush extender. Also tried using cling film to minimize off-gas and helping to inhibit drying. Your surface had lots of nooks and crannies so the spray may work better in that circumstance.
Stay upwind! I have tried to hurry the reaction on welding projects and brushed it on at arms length both phosphoric acid and muriatic. Applied while work was still warm. Not good as they really kick with heat and fume. My arms weren't long enough! And the breeze worked well until it eddied. I have always had better results in a soaking situation than when I paint it on. It sure beats grinding though and you can reuse it several times. The muriatic acid is used to etch concrete as well so it is readily available. It etches aluminum for a better paint 'tooth' as well. Good topic. Doug
Great to see the muriatic acid in action. I have been looking for a method that does not involve pickling the metal as I have to clean some 6m long L-section bars.
Very nice art work. But why would you do that art on hot rolled steel instead of cold rolled steel where you did not have to worry about mill scale? You can see some residual millscale at the end. To get rid of all the mill-scale you should submerge it in the acid, though this would be hard to do with this piece. You mentioned using safety equipment, but where were your goggles and gloves?
You should have built a dipping box - a couple of 1x4s and some plywood, then used poly sheeting as a liner. As it was, doing this over a concrete floor probably left etchings in it - not to mention the fumes drifting all over your yard. But, hey, it accomplished your mission!
@ Steve K...Thanks for the input. Before I started, the brick wall & the sidewalk was covered in alkali deposits from the evaporative cooler above. The whole area looked like it was covered in dirty ice. When I got done, the bricks and sidewalk looked brand new. Killed Two Birds With One Video! Thanks, Steve! Bill
The acid turns back to water after a few days. Then, I dump it and start over. If I want to keep using it, I just cover the tank with plastic or float balls.
A good mask is in order too. Muriatic acid fumes off and is highly irritating to the throat and lungs. Even though it is considered a relatively mild acid it's very nasty on your airways.
+videoclipits Thanks for the Advice! ;o) FYI: When HCL (Hydrochloric Acid) is purchased 'off the shelf' in a hardware store, it is a diluted form of HCL, commonly called, 'Muriatic Acid'. It is generally sold in a strength of approx. 31.45%. Even at that dilution, the smell is horrid & can be irritating and even dangerous to mucosa, airway, skin & eyes. What I am using in this video is a 1:1 Ratio of Muriatic Acid & H20. At that reduced strength (dilution), the vapor & resultant odor/s are negligible, and in fact, un-noticeable. And, thanks to God-given Common Sense, I position myself up-wind. :o)
this was awesome!
Very useful video, thanks for taking the time to produce it (ten years ago, lol). After watching this, and in an attempt to reduce the over-spray and aerosols I tried using a hog bristle brush and it worked very nicely indeed. A little agitation adds to the even effect but it encourages you to lean over the surface so I will be using a paint brush extender. Also tried using cling film to minimize off-gas and helping to inhibit drying.
Your surface had lots of nooks and crannies so the spray may work better in that circumstance.
Thanks for the comments 🙂
Stay upwind! I have tried to hurry the reaction on welding projects and brushed it on at arms length both phosphoric acid and muriatic. Applied while work was still warm. Not good as they really kick with heat and fume. My arms weren't long enough! And the breeze worked well until it eddied. I have always had better results in a soaking situation than when I paint it on. It sure beats grinding though and you can reuse it several times. The muriatic acid is used to etch concrete as well so it is readily available. It etches aluminum for a better paint 'tooth' as well. Good topic. Doug
Beautiful design. Nice work.
Nice video. Im new at using acid... was kinda nervous about it so thank you! found this off the PS site. great info!!
+Sean Citron You're welcome! :o) Bill
Great to see the muriatic acid in action. I have been looking for a method that does not involve pickling the metal as I have to clean some 6m long L-section bars.
Yep! It works great. And amazingly fast. Bill
Very nice art work. But why would you do that art on hot rolled steel instead of cold rolled steel where you did not have to worry about mill scale? You can see some residual millscale at the end. To get rid of all the mill-scale you should submerge it in the acid, though this would be hard to do with this piece. You mentioned using safety equipment, but where were your goggles and gloves?
I'm unable to get CR steel in 7awg. - I'll use goggles & gloves in the next video!
thanks!
Bill
Spray bottle.... good idea
Great piece! Could you now use a grinder to get a mirror finish at this stage?
Yes! A grinder with a flap-disc or an AVOS® Disc is next. Then the patinas go on & finally ... an automotive clear-coat. Bill
You should have built a dipping box - a couple of 1x4s and some plywood, then used poly sheeting as a liner. As it was, doing this over a concrete floor probably left etchings in it - not to mention the fumes drifting all over your yard. But, hey, it accomplished your mission!
@ Steve K...Thanks for the input. Before I started, the brick wall & the sidewalk was covered in alkali deposits from the evaporative cooler above. The whole area looked like it was covered in dirty ice. When I got done, the bricks and sidewalk looked brand new. Killed Two Birds With One Video! Thanks, Steve! Bill
So what do you do with the used acid afterwards, say in the submerged/dipping situation
The acid turns back to water after a few days. Then, I dump it and start over. If I want to keep using it, I just cover the tank with plastic or float balls.
How in the hell did you find a spray nossle that will spray that stuff and not gum up and stop working immediately,??
Acid-Resistant Sprayers ARE hard to find. I sell them on my site for about $25.00. Bill
A good mask is in order too. Muriatic acid fumes off and is highly irritating to the throat and lungs. Even though it is considered a relatively mild acid it's very nasty on your airways.
+videoclipits Thanks for the Advice! ;o) FYI: When HCL (Hydrochloric Acid) is purchased 'off the shelf' in a hardware store, it is a diluted form of HCL, commonly called, 'Muriatic Acid'. It is generally sold in a strength of approx. 31.45%. Even at that dilution, the smell is horrid & can be irritating and even dangerous to mucosa, airway, skin & eyes. What I am using in this video is a 1:1 Ratio of Muriatic Acid & H20. At that reduced strength (dilution), the vapor & resultant odor/s are negligible, and in fact, un-noticeable. And, thanks to God-given Common Sense, I position myself up-wind. :o)
Can it be painted after this?
Yes, definitely!