I have quite a few boost and buck converters but that model is awesome! Especially when testing electric hobby motors to see how much voltage and current the motor can run on without burning out.
Thanks for the video I am fixing to do similar project I have three of those server power supply's there great for our projects. Keep up the good work, I will be using one of of the converter's you showed in a later video that has the buttons to change values.
Wonderful!! 👍👍👍 Thanks a lot for such positive feedback. We appreciate it. Success wishes on your diy projects. Let me know if you have any questions in the future. 👍😎 The Innovati0n Lab 💥
Only thing to point out, the spade connector you tried to tighten down on the output, because of the poor contact point, it will likely get very hot. This is generally not good for safety. Please make sure you make decent connections, especially when pushing significant amps.
Thanks for the great feedback.👍👍 That is a correct observation that I have made as well. However, the focus is to not exceed the current rating connectors by applying some derating factors and to ensure that the contacts are making a firm connection. This minmizes arcing and helps keep contact resistance low....hence low dissipation. However, I shifted away from using spade connectors in later projects. This is an old video. Respectfully, The Innovati0n Lab 💥 www.theinnovati0nlab.com
@@theinnovati0nlab782 While we both may understand this, please consider that viewers may not be as knowledgable. It is often worth pointing out these things as learning points.
You can buy a variable DC power supply for just a tiny bit more. The one you buy ready-made also comes with a digital display, which saves you having to buy a multimeter if you don't own one.
@@theinnovati0nlab782 I replied but my comment got deleted. Search for "variable DC power supply." I can't tell you where or my comment will disappear.
Great explanation video! Thank you. One more question. Do you believe this is safe to have this continuously / permanently connected for the purpose of a backup UPS type solution?
Typically. I would say that it should be safe. However, I will not recommend it. Reason: It is recommended to always allow your battery to fully discharge, and then you recharge it - every now and then. Even though the batteries types like Lifepo4 and Li-ion are less sensitive to memory effects, it is still a good thing to let them discharge fully - every now and then. UPS systems are design with cutt-off circuitry that isolates the battery from the charging system - once it is fully charged, but then trickle charges it as needed. This is why they are also considerable expensive - because they have everything in one package (battery, charger, inverter, and power change over circuit) I will explain it better when I make the battery charging video. Thanks a lot for all your support and for all the insightful questions/comments. Also, I don't pride myself of knowing everything. So feel free to correct me if you found something different in your own research.
Thanks a lot for watching our videos. Those should be gauge 10 wires. Given the current limit of 20A on that boost converter, gauge 10 should be good for a short wire run. But if you are doing a long wire run, you can either double the cable or maybe consider using a gauge 8 wire. This is because you always have to account for wire resistivity per unit length.
I am not sure what you mean by if we could ensure CC-CV. We are not the manufacturer of these converters. However, one of the ones I have used, the CC and CV functions, works as I would expect. I hope the helps. The Innovati0n Lab.
Wonderful question. Thanks a lot for asking that👍. I have not measured the input current draw at 0 output load. Every converter has a small input draw to keep the control electronics running - even with no output load. However the higher the efficiency of the converter, the lower the input current draw at 0load.
I liked the video on building this charger. I ordered 3 and im trying to build a charger by combining all three. I have a 100 amp 12 volt power supply and a 560 ah 24 volt lifepo4 battery i built with 280 ah eve cells. Its a 2p8s 14 kw battery. I have several victron and other types of solar chargers but im wanting a high amp charger that i can plug into my house. I also have a 40 amp 24 volt charger but im wanting atleast 100 amps for a quicker charge.
@@theinnovati0nlab782 I figure I'll hook them up one at a time and adjust the voltage and current then check each one then check them with both them together and see if voltage stays the same. If not I'll use 2 seperate power supply and then check them both again. It's a huge battery with a 300 amp 24 volt bms that should protect the battery if it gets out of tune
@@drpainlesss I've rebuilt the battery and actually built another. They are both 840 ah at 24 volts. Each one is 3p8s eve 280k cells. I tried building a charger with those dc to dc boost converters and it wasn't a success. I ended up buying 2 of the 50 amp 24 volt chargers from powermax. I have 2 victron 150-70 solar charge controllers and a all in one inverter with a 40 amp charger that I can run from a 110 outlet also. Then my sungold power 4000 has a built in charger also. I am on the road in my semi truck 27 days a month but when I'm home I'm off grid 100 percent now. It's been about 30 grand to get set up to live comfortably off grid but it's worth it so far. I'm looking for a safe property now where my stuff will be safe while I'm on the road
Would it be safe to connect the battery first und then connect the power source? I'm not sure if this modules survive voltage at the output while they are not powered, so if additional diodes to prevent back current are necessary?
Hi friend! Thanks a lot for the very thoughtful feedback. 👍👍👍 I would not recommend leaving your battery permanently connected to the boost converters.....or even any charger at all when the power source to the charger has been removed. If left this way for a long period, the charger could drain or damage your battery. Here are the safety steps that I always follow when charging my batteries; 1. Connect input power 2. Adjust charging voltage 3. Verify, charging voltage 4. Adjust charding current
Great video's my brother! i was looking for a DC-DC charger to charge a second AGM battery in my car. Now it is isolated from the starter battery and only gets current from the alternator during a ride (by a Victron Cyrix-ct). The problem is my alternator is temperature controlled so it doesn't keep the voltage at 14.7V during charging but drops to 14-14.3V so my second battery is not being fully charged. No I will try to put a DC-DC Boost converter after the Victron isolator and set it to deliver 14.7V. Is that a good solution according to you?
Thanks a lot for the wonderful feedback! Much appreciated.👍👍👍 Great question! I love outside the box thinking. However, I am not sure of the specs of your second battery and the recommended charging voltage and current. To be honest, my concern with your design is that you could potentially overload your car's alternator. But your idea of using the dc to dc boost converter should work. My recommendation is that you use a constant current DC-DC boost converter that would allows you to adjust the charging current to keep your system balanced. The lower the charging current, the better or safer for your system. Also, try not to charge the second battery when all your cars electrical system is fully loaded....Air conditioner, headlights, stereo...etc. By balanced, I meant that you need to make sure that the overall load on your alternator - especially with the second battery is less than its rated output power. Caution:⚠️⚠️ Keep in mind that converters are subject to failures. There could be a failure mode of the converter that could harm your cars electrical system. Make sure that your system is fully protected. I hope this helps. 👍😎 The Innovati0n Lab💥
Thanks a lot for watching our videos. Yes, you can just order the matching potentiometer (3590S package) value that was used in the units you bought and carefully solder wires from the external potentiometer to the board. Caution: Please make sure that the wires are very well secured on both the board and at the potentiometer pins (I will recommend using hot glue or good non-conducting adhesives). This is because If the ground wire breaks off, it could cause your boost converter to lose output regulation and the adjusted output voltage will rise extremely high (>100Vdc). Since the output caps, MOSFET, and diodes are rated around 100Vdc, a lose ground wire, could damage your converter or any load you have connected. I will recommend not doing it - if you are a beginner with electronics and power. I also did something similar in the video below. czcams.com/video/iQnXLZqpSpo/video.html
Thanks a lot for watching our videos and for the engagement, I appreciate it. Regarding your questions see below. 1. Reverse Polarity protection: Vendor claims that this feature is built into the design but I have not tested it. Maybe I will test it in a future video. But see the link below for the 1800W boost converter specs and features; a.co/d/8yAs7YH 2. Overcharge protection: This device was not designed to be a charger. However, my videos show how you can use them for battery charging. So this is what you should do. - Set the boost converter to your maximum rated battery charging voltage. Please note that different battery types require different charging voltages. You have to do some research.....or you can just watch my tutorial video below; czcams.com/video/nd6EhH1SCio/video.html - Now, after setting the battery charging voltage, set the charging current using the constant current adjustment on the boost converter. Again, you have to do some research for the recommended charging current depending on your battery type - now begin charging. When your battery reaches the charging voltage you have set, it will no longer accept charge because both the charger voltage and the battery voltage will equalize. This is mostly applicable to lead acid batteries. It is even better with other battery types like lithium ion, or Lithium phosphate because they have internal protection circuits. Thanks again and please don't forget to help our channel grow by sharing our videos.
Very informative video. May I ask if what will be the charging voltage for a 60V lifepo4 battery pack? I plan to use the same converter to charge this 60v battery
Thank you so much for watching my video and I am glad you found it informative. As for your question, the charging voltage for your 60V battery pack will depend on the number of Lifepo4 cells you have in series. (18S or 19S?). Multiply the number by 3.65 and that will give you your maximum charging voltage. I would recommend that you do some research to understand your battery specifications some more - just to be on the side of caution. Example: If your battery pack is an 18S lifepo4 (18 cells in series) Charging voltage: 18 * 3.65 = 65.7V Please do not exceed this voltage. I hope this helps you and let me know if you have more questions/concerns. Thanks again and have a wonderful day🙏🙏
@@theinnovati0nlab782 Thank you. Again, your quick reply also was very clear. And I just want to ask one more thing, you think this 1500w buck converter is capable enough to give a constant 65v (for example) even if I just give a 12v input in it? Does the input current also matter for the output voltage?
I have only tested it to 60V from a 12V input. I will do another test and I will update you. However, looking at the specs from Amazon, it should be able to go upto 83V...in theory.
@@redfoxthehobbyist for lithiums you must have a proper bms board so you don’t over charge individual cells. Using this set up will work but you have to manage current properly or they will explode.
Has any one got a schematic of this charger. As I want to modify it so it only has a small span of voltage. For charging lifepo4 battery or a lead acid.
I added a brief animated schematic to this video. It is easy to follow. There isn't anything to build really. I also made a video that shows how to configure the server power supply to deliver the 12Vdc output. Watch the video I made about the HP server power supply.
This is a cheap alternative for those who can not afford expensive battery chargers that will have all those functions built-in. If you set the converter to your battery's recommended charging voltage and current, when you get to full charge, the system will go into equilibrium. At full charge: 1. Battery voltage = charger output voltage. 2. System current drops close to 0 Amps. I explained this concept fully in many follow-on videos. 👇👇👇 czcams.com/video/WDWJ77WWkXc/video.htmlsi=5SD-w4pUl9T8czMi I hope this helps. Success wishes on your diy projects! 👍😎 The Innovati0n Lab 💥
Absolutely! The setup will work with any DC source 12 to 60V Output Voltage range that is clean enough to drive the boost converter. Most, if not all, computer power supplies would be ideal. I just haven't worked with the ATX power supplies. But I am sure that with some research, you can figure out how to enable the outputs.
Hi friend, Is the 27 to 40V your boost converter that is not working? Or is that a battery pack that won't charge? I just need to fully understand your question. If you can explain better in a different language, that will be great. I can use Google Translate.
Thanks a lot for watching this video. To answer your question, once you set the charging voltage and currwnt to the recommended levels, your battery will balance out with the charger because the both will be at the same voltage level. This will be the equilibrium point between charger and battery. But make sure you set your voltage right. Please don't forget to help us share our videos to help our channel grow.
Great video, if I use a ATX PSU that can deliver 12v 50 amp, could two 20 amp DC-DC Boost Converters be wired in parallel for 14.6v 40 amp charging? I am building a 12v 105 amp lifepo4 portable power station and want to charge it in 2-3hrs.
I am currently working on this parallel boost converter test video. Please see some of my latest shorts. However, the paralleled converter option will work for only fixed voltage applications like for powering an ebike or other devices. It may not work well for battery charging because making the current adjustments will be difficult. 👍😎
@@theinnovati0nlab782 Thank you for your reply, I look forward to your video and will check out the short video too. It's fine if I cannot change the current or voltage after setup because the charger will only be for my 12.8v 105ah diy power station, as long as I can charge it at 40 amps 14.6v, I presume that the parallel boost converters will still gradually ramp down the current until the maximum battery voltage is reached (14.6v).
I have this module too, and I have one question Can I firstly connect the output wire to 72V acid batteries after that I add voltage in input ? I have camper car ,I need use that module for ups batteries but always may car is turned off and don't have voltage to turn on the module , but the module is always connected to battries, Is that make problem for module or it's ok ?
Wonderful question. 👍👍👍 I have actually covered the charging process in great detail in the videos below. Please go and watch them, when you can because it will be hard for me to explain it over text in here. 👇👇👇 czcams.com/video/WDWJ77WWkXc/video.htmlsi=GUma6KNVAuO51qOy 💥💥New video! czcams.com/video/Hn8XeqQh70U/video.htmlsi=aaQchkrhDr7suhEj
I honestly don't remember. That video was made more than a year ago, and I no longer use that meter because it comes with too many wires and separate components. Check out the video below for the power monitor I have been using in most of my recent videos. 👇👇👇 czcams.com/video/j6TGMS1C_BE/video.html I hope this helps. 👍😎 The Innovati0n Lab
"the world cheapest universal charger board" cost 1 USD ( when you use old laptop power supply + meter with shunt 1usd) but limited 5 A, 14 V (or 27 V) and also works. PS. You have a nice GF and car :)
thanks for this great video.and i have a problem hope you will hel me.i have 12v 45AH battery and bldc moter of i=e bike 48 volt and its need 10Amps to run.can i use this 45Ah 12v battery and 1500w boost converter?will it give me 10Amps and 48V outputt(12*4=48 so 45A/4=11.25AMPS) so will it succes?
Thanks for watching my videos! I will definitely love to help you. Helping people is the goal of The Innovati0n Lab. Actually, I am currently making a video about a related subject. I got the 1500W version and I am making a test video for it. Upconverting from 12V to 48V at 10Amps (480W + conversion losses) maybe a challenge if you intend to use the boost converter in my video. Even the 1500W version can only handle up 30Amps at the input - this means about 360W (12 * 30) at the input of the boost converter. You should be fine with using a 24V battery instead. This will guarantee that you have greater than 480W at your input. You can also try using a different model/design of boost converter that is built to handle more input current.
@@theinnovati0nlab782 thanks for fast reply sir.so in this type boost coverter input is 30A right?sadly thought output is 30A.so if i conect 45AH 12 v battery will this 1500w boost converter give me 48v 7.5 amps(coz 30/4 =7.5).and my last quection this boost coverter can handle my 45AH battery?(coz its max input 30A so my battery 45A).again thanks for your time : )
That is a good idea, but if you set the charger to the right charging voltage required for your battery, you won't need to do that. When your battery is fully charged, the system will get to equilibrium, and charging current will drop to a trickle charge level. If you have a Lithium-Ion or Lifepo4 battery, the BMS will cut off the charger. I hope this helps. Now, share this video and get more subscribers in here!...hahaha. 👍👍 The Innovati0n Lab 💥 www.theinnovati0nlab.com
I saw a vid of a ham radio man in usa . Had 4x of these in paralell.. 1500 watt output max . Using 4x .1 ohms resistores on each line input .. 2balance all inputts
Thanks for watching our videos! Primarily, the boost converter can be used to boost any DC source with the range of 10 - 60V. But, I don't think they are designed to interface with MPPT controllers.
@@theinnovati0nlab782 MPPT controllers generally have a curve (either learned on the fly or preset) that is optimised for solar panels as the source. You *could* in theory use this with it, but it is unlikely to be optimal. There is also the risk as you are pushing the system (without checking the calcs etc yourself) into a non-standard operating mode. You risk damage to equipment and/of safety issues. When dealing with switch mode power supplies please be aware that when they fail they can produce quite high voltages. Another ower module I had failed with 60V across the output which was not great for the equipment it was connected to.
@@MikePreston-darkflib I appreciate the interaction. However, I don't see the relevance of your comment to this discussion. Respectfully, The Innovati0n Lab 💥 www.theinnovati0nlab.com
High chibuzo, I made a video on how you can configure the HP power supply in my channel. Please watch the video and let me know if you have any questions. I will share the link below.
@@theinnovati0nlab782 I like your videos and I often watch them and then I take the initiative as a power supply but I'm hesitant to do it because no one has made what I think, most people use step-down as a power supply.
@@theinnovati0nlab782thank you! I like your videos and I often watch them and then I take the initiative as a power supply but I'm hesitant to do it because no one has made what I think, most people use step-down as a power supply.
I have a CCTV NVR that uses a 52V adapter for power. The problem is, we face constant power outages, resulting in a loss of security coverage. I want to use this 1500W boost converter to convert 12V battery backup from the UPS to 52V because I have found that this is the solution. Now I have two questions: 1. Will it work? 2. How do I change the current? (NB: I am somewhat of a noob when it comes to electronics. What I know today is learned through such videos.)
Wonderful! I am glad you found this video helpful. It seems to me that what you are looking to do is simple and should work as long as your system's ripple requirement is a bit relaxed - but it should be. However, you need to know the input current rating of your system or the input power requirement. If you know the input power spec, then you can calculate the input current using the formula: Input current = Input Power/52V. Now, a very important NOTE!🔥 With these converters, you can possible only get about less than 300 watts of output power if your input voltage is only 12V. This is due to a 30A current limit set by the manufacturer. If you look through my channel, you will find other videos that address current adjustments on this boost converter. Please watch the video below. It talks about battery charging, but it will cover output current adjustments and current limit issues. 👇👇👇 czcams.com/video/WDWJ77WWkXc/video.htmlsi=5g-OpRdnLK20bVdW I hope this helps. We are looking to grow this channel and we can use some help from you with sharing our video with friends and DIY interest groups on social media. When these videos do well, we are inspired to do more. Success wishes on your project endeavors, my friend. 👍😎 The Innovati0n Lab.
will it automatically stop chargeing whn the battery is full? Will it stop because battery has reached the same voltage than the charger and thus there is no current flow? Thanks in advance.
Yes, as long as your charging voltage is set to the right level. For example, the typical charging voltage for a 12V lead acid battery is 14V, so if you set the charger to 14V volts to charge a 12V battery, then the charging system and battery voltage will equalize at full charge. Hence, charging current will drop almost to 0A. But if you are using it for other battery designs, make sure that those batteries are protected with a BMS.
@@theinnovati0nlab782 thanks for your answer. I saw on CZcams that others use a MPPT charger with automatic stop relay when the goal voltage is reached. As I allready bought the unit you have, I was wondering if current really drops to zero... I want to charge an E-Bike battery in the car with my light machine. Not Sure which BMS is in the E-Bike battery, it does not have Bluetooth for charging information.
This is not suitable if your battery voltage has dropped below 12 volts. This Boost converter cannot maintain operation when output is connected to a very low resistance load (like a battery). And the max input current is transferred to the load. I tested with 12v 35A input, Set the output to 14V, and ran a starter motor with it. The CC function was unable to adjust and the output current maxed out to 35A. But when I run a 12v light bulb with it, it maintains output voltage above 12 and CC function works.
Thanks a lot for watching this video and sharing you experience my friend. First of all, I will like to say that this video focused on using this boost converter to charge batteries and not to drive a super low resistance/impedance loads like a starter motors. However, from the description of your project, it seems that you overloaded the converter. Starter motors require lots of drive current (especially when they are starting) - depending on the strength/power rating of the motor. I am not affiliated with any vendor so my videos are nothing but honest product reviews. I will highly recommend that you take the time to go through the specs of the converter to understand its limitations. Also, try to study your load to understand the power requirements. The 1200W converter is rated for a max input current of 30A, but a max output current rating of 20A. So for your project to be successful, you have to plan around the product specs. Also, these converters only cost less than $30, so it will be unfair to expect it to perform at the level of $1000 converters - yes? Thanks again for the wonderful feedback and for sharing your experience on this.
@@theinnovati0nlab782 thank you for the kind reply. I read the specks now. It is stated that for the converter to work right, the output has to be higher than the input. It does not support short circuit current limiting. So yea, I had 12v at the input, and if I tried to charge a battery (which also have very low internal resistance) which has dropped down to, say 9v. It wouldn't work. I read that minimum input voltage for this converter is 8v So I might play around with that and see how it goes. Anyways, thanks for the input and a very informative video. 👍
Que tal como le va? Consulta cuanta es la intensidad de entrada qué soporta este booster. La idea es ponerle una celda lifepo4 de 3.2v 200amp y elevar a la salida 60v 10amp se podrá hacer lo que digo? O no soporta tanto amperaje de entrada? Muchas gracias
Hi friend, I am doing alright. It looks like you want to drive the converter at a 600W output power capacity. Yes, I believe that the converter should be able to handle that - given that it is rated for 1200W. However, please remember that when connector lithium phosphate batteries in series, you need to use a BMS or good balancing circuit. If not, some of the battery cell will overcharge...and this is dangerous. Please proceed carefully with this plan. 👍😎 The Innovati0n Lab
Sir I want to drive 48 volt dldc 1000w motor rickshaw through this booster with 12 volt battery. Will it work well with this booster? Sir help me with correct information
Thank you for watching this video and supporting The Innovati0n Lab. My recommendations will be that you try getting the 1500W model of this boost converter and doing a thorough drive testing of your motor with it. Also, since you will be driving a 1000W motor with a 12V battery, I will highly recommend using cooling fans on the boost converter unit. Also keep in mind that driving a 1000W load with from a 12V battery means greater than 83A drawn from your battery and this does not even account for losses due to converter efficiency....can your 12V battery handle a constant draw of >83A? Personally, I will recommend using 24V battery if possible.
Hi friend, Thanks for the feedback. It should be possible, but this is not something that I would recommend because if anything goes wrong, your vehicle alternator and charging system could get damaged. I would prefer to use a mains power supply. However, if this is something you MUST do out of a necessity, I would highly recommend you connect a power monitor to the input and output of the boost converter to make sure that you are not pulling too much power out of your vehicle alternator. Charge at a lower current to avoid an overload on the system. Also, please do a lot of research on your vehicle's charging systems before trying this. I am not a car or alternator expert. Again, I wouldn't recommend it.
Awesome, that is safer. I would prefer that. 👍 However, depending on the capacity of your scooter battery, you may drain your car battery, just something to keep in mind. The boost converter has losses that will add to the total electrical energy drawn from your battery. If your scooter battery is significantly smaller than your car battery,...and your car battery is fully charged when you are doing the charging, then you should ok. For example, if your vehicles battery is a fully charged 12V, 60 Amp/hr battery, and you are charing a 36V 10amp/hr scooter battery, I think you should ok. But then, you never know until you test it. Also, you run a risk of not having enough charge left in the car battery to restart your vehicle afterward. You have to consider all the variables, in my opinion.
Sir I want to make 3 wheeler with 24 volt 20 amph battery using 1200 / 1800watts dc-dc boost converter 750 watt dc 48 volt motor will it work? And how many hours? Please give me the correct information
Thanks a lot for watching our videos. I believe you should be able to boost your 24V to 48V using any of these boost converters. However the question of how long you can drive your motor, is something you have to test. Your motor may draw more power when it is driving heavy loads and less power when it is barely driving anything. So by testing, you should be able to answer that question. Thanks again for such thoughtful question and goodluck on your project.
Hi friend, Thanks a lot for the great feedback. If I missed it in this video, I have shown current adjustments in multiple other videos. I have made lots of videos on these converters, and this video was one of the first ones from a long time ago. Please check out our channel for other videos relating to these boost converters.
Wonderful question my friend, also thank you for watching this video. The model of the boost converter used in this video (1200W) goes upto 83V at the output according to the manufacturer specs. Please see the Amazon product link below. Please don't forget to share this video if you found it helpful. Our goal is to help everyone. KOOBOOK 1Pcs 1200W 20A DC Car Step-up Power Supply Module Boost Converter Adjustable 10-60V to 12-83V a.co/d/a7dDjDE
Thanks a lot for the wonderful feedback. 👍👍 I don't speak Indonesian, I wish I could! But I would think that CZcams should be translating it to you from English to Indonesian?
@@theinnovati0nlab782 struggled to make out the actual content over it. Quieter, or less insistent music, or scoop out the 2-5k range, or get a compressor and set if to a 2 second delay with a soft knee side-chained against your voice. Or just don't add needless audio over perfectly good content. All personal choice and perfectly serviceable options.
Wow!! Yeah, you never want to do that. The CV pot sets the output voltage level, and the potentiometer values are carefully selected to ensure that the output voltage stays below a set point - usually about 95V for these converters. When you removed the pot, you essentially interrupted the voltage feedback loop, thereby causing the wrong output voltage levels to be reported to the PWM chip. The result is that the PWM chip will self-drive the control pulses to >95% duty cycle....this could drive the output of your boost converter to >500V.⚡️⚡️ This would also happen if the ground pin of the CV potentiometer is removed. Sorry this happened to you. But don't let it discourage you. This is what I do with all my designs. 💥 Conduct lots of research to better understand the limitations of products I will be working with 💥 Double-check and tripple check all connections and review the safety of your design or rest setup. 💥 Take your time with testing - if you feel something is not going right, shut it all down, do some more research, and you will figure out what you are missing. I hope this helps. 👍😎 The Innovati0n Lab💥
its so rare that ppl make tutorials on battery chargers "from scratch" so to speak, so thank you very much!
Thanks a lot for the wonderful feedback!
We appreciate it.
👍👍👍
I have quite a few boost and buck converters but that model is awesome! Especially when testing electric hobby motors to see how much voltage and current the motor can run on without burning out.
Agreed.
Thanks for the video I am fixing to do similar project I have three of those server power supply's there great for our projects. Keep up the good work, I will be using one of of the converter's you showed in a later video that has the buttons to change values.
Wonderful!!
👍👍👍
Thanks a lot for such positive feedback.
We appreciate it.
Success wishes on your diy projects. Let me know if you have any questions in the future.
👍😎
The Innovati0n Lab 💥
Great video!
So informative.
Thanks a lot!
Only thing to point out, the spade connector you tried to tighten down on the output, because of the poor contact point, it will likely get very hot. This is generally not good for safety. Please make sure you make decent connections, especially when pushing significant amps.
Thanks for the great feedback.👍👍
That is a correct observation that I have made as well. However, the focus is to not exceed the current rating connectors by applying some derating factors and to ensure that the contacts are making a firm connection. This minmizes arcing and helps keep contact resistance low....hence low dissipation.
However, I shifted away from using spade connectors in later projects. This is an old video.
Respectfully,
The Innovati0n Lab 💥
www.theinnovati0nlab.com
@@theinnovati0nlab782 While we both may understand this, please consider that viewers may not be as knowledgable. It is often worth pointing out these things as learning points.
You can buy a variable DC power supply for just a tiny bit more. The one you buy ready-made also comes with a digital display, which saves you having to buy a multimeter if you don't own one.
Hi friend,
Thanks a lot for the wonderful comment. Please can you share a link to the power supply that you were referring to, if you don't mind?
👍😎
@@theinnovati0nlab782 I replied but my comment got deleted. Search for "variable DC power supply." I can't tell you where or my comment will disappear.
@@theinnovati0nlab782 he might be talking about the riden dps5020
Great explanation video! Thank you.
One more question. Do you believe this is safe to have this continuously / permanently connected for the purpose of a backup UPS type solution?
Typically. I would say that it should be safe. However, I will not recommend it.
Reason:
It is recommended to always allow your battery to fully discharge, and then you recharge it - every now and then. Even though the batteries types like Lifepo4 and Li-ion are less sensitive to memory effects, it is still a good thing to let them discharge fully - every now and then.
UPS systems are design with cutt-off circuitry that isolates the battery from the charging system - once it is fully charged, but then trickle charges it as needed. This is why they are also considerable expensive - because they have everything in one package (battery, charger, inverter, and power change over circuit)
I will explain it better when I make the battery charging video.
Thanks a lot for all your support and for all the insightful questions/comments.
Also, I don't pride myself of knowing everything. So feel free to correct me if you found something different in your own research.
Brilliant!
Thanks a lot!
I appreciate your wonderful feedback.
Great content. What gauge wire are you using in this build? I want to add a charge contoller to this setup. Thx.
Thanks a lot for watching our videos.
Those should be gauge 10 wires. Given the current limit of 20A on that boost converter, gauge 10 should be good for a short wire run. But if you are doing a long wire run, you can either double the cable or maybe consider using a gauge 8 wire. This is because you always have to account for wire resistivity per unit length.
@@theinnovati0nlab782 Thanks, got this going successfully and charged my 70AH SLA battery. Used an HP HSTNS-PL18 PSU and a DC - DC boost converter. 🤓
gr8 videos thanks
Thanks a lot!
I appreciate the wonderful feedback.
👍
How do you ensure CC-CV characteristic for the charger required for li ion chemistry
I am not sure what you mean by if we could ensure CC-CV. We are not the manufacturer of these converters. However, one of the ones I have used, the CC and CV functions, works as I would expect.
I hope the helps.
The Innovati0n Lab.
👍👍thank you . Dose it have v low current draw at 0load ..
No load on output..
Wonderful question. Thanks a lot for asking that👍.
I have not measured the input current draw at 0 output load. Every converter has a small input draw to keep the control electronics running - even with no output load. However the higher the efficiency of the converter, the lower the input current draw at 0load.
I liked the video on building this charger. I ordered 3 and im trying to build a charger by combining all three. I have a 100 amp 12 volt power supply and a 560 ah 24 volt lifepo4 battery i built with 280 ah eve cells. Its a 2p8s 14 kw battery. I have several victron and other types of solar chargers but im wanting a high amp charger that i can plug into my house. I also have a 40 amp 24 volt charger but im wanting atleast 100 amps for a quicker charge.
Great idea.
However, how are you going to handle the current adjustments needed for your batteries system?
@@theinnovati0nlab782 I figure I'll hook them up one at a time and adjust the voltage and current then check each one then check them with both them together and see if voltage stays the same. If not I'll use 2 seperate power supply and then check them both again. It's a huge battery with a 300 amp 24 volt bms that should protect the battery if it gets out of tune
How's your experiment going?I'm looking for same solution here for high current battery
@@drpainlesss I've rebuilt the battery and actually built another. They are both 840 ah at 24 volts. Each one is 3p8s eve 280k cells. I tried building a charger with those dc to dc boost converters and it wasn't a success. I ended up buying 2 of the 50 amp 24 volt chargers from powermax. I have 2 victron 150-70 solar charge controllers and a all in one inverter with a 40 amp charger that I can run from a 110 outlet also. Then my sungold power 4000 has a built in charger also. I am on the road in my semi truck 27 days a month but when I'm home I'm off grid 100 percent now. It's been about 30 grand to get set up to live comfortably off grid but it's worth it so far. I'm looking for a safe property now where my stuff will be safe while I'm on the road
Would it be safe to connect the battery first und then connect the power source? I'm not sure if this modules survive voltage at the output while they are not powered, so if additional diodes to prevent back current are necessary?
Hi friend!
Thanks a lot for the very thoughtful feedback. 👍👍👍
I would not recommend leaving your battery permanently connected to the boost converters.....or even any charger at all when the power source to the charger has been removed. If left this way for a long period, the charger could drain or damage your battery.
Here are the safety steps that I always follow when charging my batteries;
1. Connect input power
2. Adjust charging voltage
3. Verify, charging voltage
4. Adjust charding current
Nice one
Thanks!
Great video's my brother! i was looking for a DC-DC charger to charge a second AGM battery in my car. Now it is isolated from the starter battery and only gets current from the alternator during a ride (by a Victron Cyrix-ct). The problem is my alternator is temperature controlled so it doesn't keep the voltage at 14.7V during charging but drops to 14-14.3V so my second battery is not being fully charged. No I will try to put a DC-DC Boost converter after the Victron isolator and set it to deliver 14.7V. Is that a good solution according to you?
Thanks a lot for the wonderful feedback! Much appreciated.👍👍👍
Great question!
I love outside the box thinking. However, I am not sure of the specs of your second battery and the recommended charging voltage and current. To be honest, my concern with your design is that you could potentially overload your car's alternator. But your idea of using the dc to dc boost converter should work. My recommendation is that you use a constant current DC-DC boost converter that would allows you to adjust the charging current to keep your system balanced. The lower the charging current, the better or safer for your system. Also, try not to charge the second battery when all your cars electrical system is fully loaded....Air conditioner, headlights, stereo...etc.
By balanced, I meant that you need to make sure that the overall load on your alternator - especially with the second battery is less than its rated output power.
Caution:⚠️⚠️
Keep in mind that converters are subject to failures. There could be a failure mode of the converter that could harm your cars electrical system. Make sure that your system is fully protected.
I hope this helps.
👍😎
The Innovati0n Lab💥
I just ordered this dc to SC converter, is there way to add external pots in order to adjust voltage or current without using a tiny screwdriver?
Thanks a lot for watching our videos.
Yes, you can just order the matching potentiometer (3590S package) value that was used in the units you bought and carefully solder wires from the external potentiometer to the board.
Caution:
Please make sure that the wires are very well secured on both the board and at the potentiometer pins (I will recommend using hot glue or good non-conducting adhesives). This is because If the ground wire breaks off, it could cause your boost converter to lose output regulation and the adjusted output voltage will rise extremely high (>100Vdc). Since the output caps, MOSFET, and diodes are rated around 100Vdc, a lose ground wire, could damage your converter or any load you have connected.
I will recommend not doing it - if you are a beginner with electronics and power.
I also did something similar in the video below.
czcams.com/video/iQnXLZqpSpo/video.html
Super sir, this is having auto cutoff after battery get full charged and reverse voltage protection. ?
Thanks a lot for watching our videos and for the engagement, I appreciate it.
Regarding your questions see below.
1. Reverse Polarity protection: Vendor claims that this feature is built into the design but I have not tested it. Maybe I will test it in a future video. But see the link below for the 1800W boost converter specs and features; a.co/d/8yAs7YH
2. Overcharge protection:
This device was not designed to be a charger. However, my videos show how you can use them for battery charging.
So this is what you should do.
- Set the boost converter to your maximum rated battery charging voltage.
Please note that different battery types require different charging voltages. You have to do some research.....or you can just watch my tutorial video below;
czcams.com/video/nd6EhH1SCio/video.html
- Now, after setting the battery charging voltage, set the charging current using the constant current adjustment on the boost converter. Again, you have to do some research for the recommended charging current depending on your battery type - now begin charging.
When your battery reaches the charging voltage you have set, it will no longer accept charge because both the charger voltage and the battery voltage will equalize. This is mostly applicable to lead acid batteries. It is even better with other battery types like lithium ion, or Lithium phosphate because they have internal protection circuits.
Thanks again and please don't forget to help our channel grow by sharing our videos.
Very informative video. May I ask if what will be the charging voltage for a 60V lifepo4 battery pack? I plan to use the same converter to charge this 60v battery
Thank you so much for watching my video and I am glad you found it informative.
As for your question, the charging voltage for your 60V battery pack will depend on the number of Lifepo4 cells you have in series. (18S or 19S?). Multiply the number by 3.65 and that will give you your maximum charging voltage. I would recommend that you do some research to understand your battery specifications some more - just to be on the side of caution.
Example:
If your battery pack is an 18S lifepo4 (18 cells in series)
Charging voltage:
18 * 3.65 = 65.7V
Please do not exceed this voltage.
I hope this helps you and let me know if you have more questions/concerns.
Thanks again and have a wonderful day🙏🙏
@@theinnovati0nlab782 Thank you. Again, your quick reply also was very clear.
And I just want to ask one more thing, you think this 1500w buck converter is capable enough to give a constant 65v (for example) even if I just give a 12v input in it? Does the input current also matter for the output voltage?
I have only tested it to 60V from a 12V input. I will do another test and I will update you.
However, looking at the specs from Amazon, it should be able to go upto 83V...in theory.
@@redfoxthehobbyist for lithiums you must have a proper bms board so you don’t over charge individual cells. Using this set up will work but you have to manage current properly or they will explode.
Has any one got a schematic of this charger. As I want to modify it so it only has a small span of voltage. For charging lifepo4 battery or a lead acid.
I added a brief animated schematic to this video. It is easy to follow. There isn't anything to build really.
I also made a video that shows how to configure the server power supply to deliver the 12Vdc output.
Watch the video I made about the HP server power supply.
Problem with this method is there is no overcharge cut off. May be you still buy the module separate. So I suggest to use MPPT charger board.
This is a cheap alternative for those who can not afford expensive battery chargers that will have all those functions built-in.
If you set the converter to your battery's recommended charging voltage and current, when you get to full charge, the system will go into equilibrium.
At full charge:
1. Battery voltage = charger output voltage.
2. System current drops close to 0 Amps.
I explained this concept fully in many follow-on videos.
👇👇👇
czcams.com/video/WDWJ77WWkXc/video.htmlsi=5SD-w4pUl9T8czMi
I hope this helps.
Success wishes on your diy projects!
👍😎
The Innovati0n Lab 💥
Is it possible to make a variable bench power supply with this boost converter. I have a DPS3005 and normal ATX psu. Thanks for your video.
Absolutely!
The setup will work with any DC source 12 to 60V Output Voltage range that is clean enough to drive the boost converter.
Most, if not all, computer power supplies would be ideal. I just haven't worked with the ATX power supplies. But I am sure that with some research, you can figure out how to enable the outputs.
@@theinnovati0nlab782 Thanks!
I have a one. 27 to 40 volts I want. I get the 40 volts doesn't charge. I ajust the other knob and voltage does fo down
Hi friend,
Is the 27 to 40V your boost converter that is not working? Or is that a battery pack that won't charge?
I just need to fully understand your question.
If you can explain better in a different language, that will be great. I can use Google Translate.
Will the power supply switch off once the battery is at full charge or will a automatic switch of some sort be required.
Thanks a lot for watching this video.
To answer your question, once you set the charging voltage and currwnt to the recommended levels, your battery will balance out with the charger because the both will be at the same voltage level.
This will be the equilibrium point between charger and battery. But make sure you set your voltage right.
Please don't forget to help us share our videos to help our channel grow.
Great video, if I use a ATX PSU that can deliver 12v 50 amp, could two 20 amp DC-DC Boost Converters be wired in parallel for 14.6v 40 amp charging? I am building a 12v 105 amp lifepo4 portable power station and want to charge it in 2-3hrs.
I am currently working on this parallel boost converter test video. Please see some of my latest shorts. However, the paralleled converter option will work for only fixed voltage applications like for powering an ebike or other devices. It may not work well for battery charging because making the current adjustments will be difficult.
👍😎
@@theinnovati0nlab782 Thank you for your reply, I look forward to your video and will check out the short video too. It's fine if I cannot change the current or voltage after setup because the charger will only be for my 12.8v 105ah diy power station, as long as I can charge it at 40 amps 14.6v, I presume that the parallel boost converters will still gradually ramp down the current until the maximum battery voltage is reached (14.6v).
I have this module too, and I have one question
Can I firstly connect the output wire to 72V acid batteries after that I add voltage in input ?
I have camper car ,I need use that module for ups batteries but always may car is turned off and don't have voltage to turn on the module , but the module is always connected to battries, Is that make problem for module or it's ok ?
Wonderful question.
👍👍👍
I have actually covered the charging process in great detail in the videos below.
Please go and watch them, when you can because it will be hard for me to explain it over text in here.
👇👇👇
czcams.com/video/WDWJ77WWkXc/video.htmlsi=GUma6KNVAuO51qOy
💥💥New video!
czcams.com/video/Hn8XeqQh70U/video.htmlsi=aaQchkrhDr7suhEj
How you programmed the display?
I honestly don't remember. That video was made more than a year ago, and I no longer use that meter because it comes with too many wires and separate components.
Check out the video below for the power monitor I have been using in most of my recent videos.
👇👇👇
czcams.com/video/j6TGMS1C_BE/video.html
I hope this helps.
👍😎
The Innovati0n Lab
"the world cheapest universal charger board" cost 1 USD ( when you use old laptop power supply + meter with shunt 1usd) but limited 5 A, 14 V (or 27 V) and also works. PS. You have a nice GF and car :)
Wonderful!
I am glad to know that could be possible.
👍👍👍
Success wishes to you, my friend.
- The Innovati0n Lab.
thanks for this great video.and i have a problem hope you will hel me.i have 12v 45AH battery and bldc moter of i=e bike 48 volt and its need 10Amps to run.can i use this 45Ah 12v battery and 1500w boost converter?will it give me 10Amps and 48V outputt(12*4=48 so 45A/4=11.25AMPS) so will it succes?
Thanks for watching my videos!
I will definitely love to help you. Helping people is the goal of The Innovati0n Lab.
Actually, I am currently making a video about a related subject. I got the 1500W version and I am making a test video for it.
Upconverting from 12V to 48V at 10Amps (480W + conversion losses) maybe a challenge if you intend to use the boost converter in my video. Even the 1500W version can only handle up 30Amps at the input - this means about 360W (12 * 30) at the input of the boost converter.
You should be fine with using a 24V battery instead. This will guarantee that you have greater than 480W at your input.
You can also try using a different model/design of boost converter that is built to handle more input current.
@@theinnovati0nlab782 thanks for fast reply sir.so in this type boost coverter input is 30A right?sadly thought output is 30A.so if i conect 45AH 12 v battery will this 1500w boost converter give me 48v 7.5 amps(coz 30/4 =7.5).and my last quection this boost coverter can handle my 45AH battery?(coz its max input 30A so my battery 45A).again thanks for your time : )
can you load LTO Yinglong On this dc to dc modul?
Please, just be sure, what is LTO Yinglong? Is it a type of battery?
Can you share the specs?
I'm guessing an A30 controller could be used to cut off power once correct voltage is reached!
That is a good idea, but if you set the charger to the right charging voltage required for your battery, you won't need to do that.
When your battery is fully charged, the system will get to equilibrium, and charging current will drop to a trickle charge level. If you have a Lithium-Ion or Lifepo4 battery, the BMS will cut off the charger.
I hope this helps.
Now, share this video and get more subscribers in here!...hahaha.
👍👍
The Innovati0n Lab 💥
www.theinnovati0nlab.com
I need some help. Can I use a Boost converter for electric mower conversion? The electric mower needs about 120v
Hi friend.
Wonderful idea. Unfortunately, the boost converter has an output voltage limit of 95V DC.
@@theinnovati0nlab782 Aren't there 120v voltage boosters
I hear the max watts u can put thru it is only half of the max 1200 or 1800 w.. on each side .. in or out put cables .. 60v x10a
Or ..90v X 10A..
I saw a vid of a ham radio man in usa . Had 4x of these in paralell.. 1500 watt output max . Using 4x
.1 ohms resistores on each line input .. 2balance all inputts
👍🇦🇺
I havnt test my 1800w yet.. on solar in .. i wana do.for pwr 18v tools
Can the boost converter be hooked directly to a Lithium battery for input and then mppt solar charge controller? Without the need of a Ac power supply
Thanks for watching our videos!
Primarily, the boost converter can be used to boost any DC source with the range of 10 - 60V.
But, I don't think they are designed to interface with MPPT controllers.
@@theinnovati0nlab782 MPPT controllers generally have a curve (either learned on the fly or preset) that is optimised for solar panels as the source. You *could* in theory use this with it, but it is unlikely to be optimal. There is also the risk as you are pushing the system (without checking the calcs etc yourself) into a non-standard operating mode. You risk damage to equipment and/of safety issues.
When dealing with switch mode power supplies please be aware that when they fail they can produce quite high voltages. Another ower module I had failed with 60V across the output which was not great for the equipment it was connected to.
@@MikePreston-darkflib
I appreciate the interaction. However, I don't see the relevance of your comment to this discussion.
Respectfully,
The Innovati0n Lab 💥
www.theinnovati0nlab.com
@@theinnovati0nlab782 Sorry, I meant to respond to your parent comment...
@WC03 asked about MPPT charge controllers.
Pls how do I start this 12v 65A power supply?
Pls help me, I have it but I don't know how to start it on
High chibuzo, I made a video on how you can configure the HP power supply in my channel. Please watch the video and let me know if you have any questions. I will share the link below.
czcams.com/video/V4-azirqbco/video.html
Is this module equipped with short circuit protection?
Great question.
I don't think so.
The Innovati0n Lab💥
www.theinnovati0nlab.com
@@theinnovati0nlab782 I like your videos and I often watch them and then I take the initiative as a power supply but I'm hesitant to do it because no one has made what I think, most people use step-down as a power supply.
@@theinnovati0nlab782thank you! I like your videos and I often watch them and then I take the initiative as a power supply but I'm hesitant to do it because no one has made what I think, most people use step-down as a power supply.
I have a CCTV NVR that uses a 52V adapter for power. The problem is, we face constant power outages, resulting in a loss of security coverage. I want to use this 1500W boost converter to convert 12V battery backup from the UPS to 52V because I have found that this is the solution.
Now I have two questions:
1. Will it work?
2. How do I change the current?
(NB: I am somewhat of a noob when it comes to electronics. What I know today is learned through such videos.)
Wonderful! I am glad you found this video helpful. It seems to me that what you are looking to do is simple and should work as long as your system's ripple requirement is a bit relaxed - but it should be. However, you need to know the input current rating of your system or the input power requirement. If you know the input power spec, then you can calculate the input current using the formula:
Input current = Input Power/52V.
Now, a very important NOTE!🔥
With these converters, you can possible only get about less than 300 watts of output power if your input voltage is only 12V. This is due to a 30A current limit set by the manufacturer.
If you look through my channel, you will find other videos that address current adjustments on this boost converter.
Please watch the video below. It talks about battery charging, but it will cover output current adjustments and current limit issues.
👇👇👇
czcams.com/video/WDWJ77WWkXc/video.htmlsi=5g-OpRdnLK20bVdW
I hope this helps.
We are looking to grow this channel and we can use some help from you with sharing our video with friends and DIY interest groups on social media. When these videos do well, we are inspired to do more.
Success wishes on your project endeavors, my friend.
👍😎
The Innovati0n Lab.
will it automatically stop chargeing whn the battery is full? Will it stop because battery has reached the same voltage than the charger and thus there is no current flow? Thanks in advance.
Yes, as long as your charging voltage is set to the right level.
For example, the typical charging voltage for a 12V lead acid battery is 14V, so if you set the charger to 14V volts to charge a 12V battery, then the charging system and battery voltage will equalize at full charge. Hence, charging current will drop almost to 0A.
But if you are using it for other battery designs, make sure that those batteries are protected with a BMS.
@@theinnovati0nlab782 thanks for your answer. I saw on CZcams that others use a MPPT charger with automatic stop relay when the goal voltage is reached.
As I allready bought the unit you have, I was wondering if current really drops to zero... I want to charge an E-Bike battery in the car with my light machine. Not Sure which BMS is in the E-Bike battery, it does not have Bluetooth for charging information.
This is not suitable if your battery voltage has dropped below 12 volts. This Boost converter cannot maintain operation when output is connected to a very low resistance load (like a battery). And the max input current is transferred to the load. I tested with 12v 35A input, Set the output to 14V, and ran a starter motor with it. The CC function was unable to adjust and the output current maxed out to 35A.
But when I run a 12v light bulb with it, it maintains output voltage above 12 and CC function works.
Thanks a lot for watching this video and sharing you experience my friend.
First of all, I will like to say that this video focused on using this boost converter to charge batteries and not to drive a super low resistance/impedance loads like a starter motors.
However, from the description of your project, it seems that you overloaded the converter. Starter motors require lots of drive current (especially when they are starting) - depending on the strength/power rating of the motor.
I am not affiliated with any vendor so my videos are nothing but honest product reviews.
I will highly recommend that you take the time to go through the specs of the converter to understand its limitations. Also, try to study your load to understand the power requirements. The 1200W converter is rated for a max input current of 30A, but a max output current rating of 20A. So for your project to be successful, you have to plan around the product specs.
Also, these converters only cost less than $30, so it will be unfair to expect it to perform at the level of $1000 converters - yes?
Thanks again for the wonderful feedback and for sharing your experience on this.
@@theinnovati0nlab782 thank you for the kind reply. I read the specks now. It is stated that for the converter to work right, the output has to be higher than the input. It does not support short circuit current limiting. So yea, I had 12v at the input, and if I tried to charge a battery (which also have very low internal resistance) which has dropped down to, say 9v. It wouldn't work. I read that minimum input voltage for this converter is 8v So I might play around with that and see how it goes. Anyways, thanks for the input and a very informative video. 👍
Que tal como le va? Consulta cuanta es la intensidad de entrada qué soporta este booster. La idea es ponerle una celda lifepo4 de 3.2v 200amp y elevar a la salida 60v 10amp se podrá hacer lo que digo? O no soporta tanto amperaje de entrada? Muchas gracias
Hi friend,
I am doing alright.
It looks like you want to drive the converter at a 600W output power capacity. Yes, I believe that the converter should be able to handle that - given that it is rated for 1200W.
However, please remember that when connector lithium phosphate batteries in series, you need to use a BMS or good balancing circuit. If not, some of the battery cell will overcharge...and this is dangerous.
Please proceed carefully with this plan.
👍😎
The Innovati0n Lab
@@theinnovati0nlab782 muchas gracias
can it charge 48-72 volt li-ion battery ?
The boost converter used in this video only has an output voltage range of 12 - 60V. So, it can only charge a 48V battery.
Sir I want to drive 48 volt dldc 1000w motor rickshaw through this booster with 12 volt battery. Will it work well with this booster? Sir help me with correct information
Thank you for watching this video and supporting The Innovati0n Lab.
My recommendations will be that you try getting the 1500W model of this boost converter and doing a thorough drive testing of your motor with it. Also, since you will be driving a 1000W motor with a 12V battery, I will highly recommend using cooling fans on the boost converter unit. Also keep in mind that driving a 1000W load with from a 12V battery means greater than 83A drawn from your battery and this does not even account for losses due to converter efficiency....can your 12V battery handle a constant draw of >83A?
Personally, I will recommend using 24V battery if possible.
Can I just connect to a 12v car battery? I want to charge my 36v scooter from the car. 🚙Is it possible ?
Hi friend,
Thanks for the feedback.
It should be possible, but this is not something that I would recommend because if anything goes wrong, your vehicle alternator and charging system could get damaged.
I would prefer to use a mains power supply.
However, if this is something you MUST do out of a necessity, I would highly recommend you connect a power monitor to the input and output of the boost converter to make sure that you are not pulling too much power out of your vehicle alternator. Charge at a lower current to avoid an overload on the system. Also, please do a lot of research on your vehicle's charging systems before trying this. I am not a car or alternator expert.
Again, I wouldn't recommend it.
@@theinnovati0nlab782 so I will disconnect the battery from the car. 🙏
Awesome, that is safer.
I would prefer that.
👍
However, depending on the capacity of your scooter battery, you may drain your car battery, just something to keep in mind.
The boost converter has losses that will add to the total electrical energy drawn from your battery.
If your scooter battery is significantly smaller than your car battery,...and your car battery is fully charged when you are doing the charging, then you should ok.
For example, if your vehicles battery is a fully charged 12V, 60 Amp/hr battery, and you are charing a 36V 10amp/hr scooter battery, I think you should ok.
But then, you never know until you test it.
Also, you run a risk of not having enough charge left in the car battery to restart your vehicle afterward. You have to consider all the variables, in my opinion.
Are those lead acid or lipo’s ?
Yes, the ones used in this video are lipos.
Thanks for watching the video.
Sir I want to make 3 wheeler with 24 volt 20 amph battery using 1200 / 1800watts dc-dc boost converter 750 watt dc 48 volt motor will it work? And how many hours? Please give me the correct information
Thanks a lot for watching our videos.
I believe you should be able to boost your 24V to 48V using any of these boost converters. However the question of how long you can drive your motor, is something you have to test. Your motor may draw more power when it is driving heavy loads and less power when it is barely driving anything. So by testing, you should be able to answer that question.
Thanks again for such thoughtful question and goodluck on your project.
You said you were gonna adjust the current output on the converter and you never did
Hi friend,
Thanks a lot for the great feedback. If I missed it in this video, I have shown current adjustments in multiple other videos. I have made lots of videos on these converters, and this video was one of the first ones from a long time ago.
Please check out our channel for other videos relating to these boost converters.
Can it modified with cooling fan?
I mean the boost converter
czcams.com/video/OYzvwmOy3gw/video.htmlsi=Iig8Qfn2EX3Vpg9B
the applause was funny.
Hahaha, I am glad you found it funny.
Yes👍🔋 ⚡💡
Thanks!
Max output voltage??
Max output voltage of the system? or are you asking about the boost converter spec? Please be more specific.
@@theinnovati0nlab782 boost converter max output voltage which we can get from it
Wonderful question my friend, also thank you for watching this video.
The model of the boost converter used in this video (1200W) goes upto 83V at the output according to the manufacturer specs.
Please see the Amazon product link below.
Please don't forget to share this video if you found it helpful. Our goal is to help everyone.
KOOBOOK 1Pcs 1200W 20A DC Car Step-up Power Supply Module Boost Converter Adjustable 10-60V to 12-83V a.co/d/a7dDjDE
Saya mau dalam video anda ,ada bahasa Indonesia
Thanks a lot for the wonderful feedback.
👍👍
I don't speak Indonesian, I wish I could! But I would think that CZcams should be translating it to you from English to Indonesian?
why the music... :(
Thanks a lot for watching. Please let me know if you have any suggestions.
@@theinnovati0nlab782 struggled to make out the actual content over it. Quieter, or less insistent music, or scoop out the 2-5k range, or get a compressor and set if to a 2 second delay with a soft knee side-chained against your voice. Or just don't add needless audio over perfectly good content. All personal choice and perfectly serviceable options.
@@twobob
Thanks a lot for the wonderful suggestion. I do appreciate it.
i had one of these , when i removed the cv pot and it spit out over 100 volt dc loll so i blew my e-bike ( crap ) converter haha
Wow!!
Yeah, you never want to do that. The CV pot sets the output voltage level, and the potentiometer values are carefully selected to ensure that the output voltage stays below a set point - usually about 95V for these converters. When you removed the pot, you essentially interrupted the voltage feedback loop, thereby causing the wrong output voltage levels to be reported to the PWM chip.
The result is that the PWM chip will self-drive the control pulses to >95% duty cycle....this could drive the output of your boost converter to >500V.⚡️⚡️
This would also happen if the ground pin of the CV potentiometer is removed.
Sorry this happened to you. But don't let it discourage you.
This is what I do with all my designs.
💥 Conduct lots of research to better understand the limitations of products I will be working with
💥 Double-check and tripple check all connections and review the safety of your design or rest setup.
💥 Take your time with testing - if you feel something is not going right, shut it all down, do some more research, and you will figure out what you are missing.
I hope this helps.
👍😎
The Innovati0n Lab💥