It’s worth mentioning that you can buy cycle torque wrench so you can do them up to the same correct torque every time , it’s a lot less than you would imagine,! Most are over tightened, It also worth mentioning that that you should tefgel the helicoil when inserting into the alloy, I personally would pull all the factory fitted helicoil inserts, and lube them up! , so you make a barrier between the different surfaces, taking apart the the foil every time does wear away the anodising seating in the fuselage for the csk heads of the screws, you can have the fuselages stripped and re anodised with a hard anodising which helps, you can also buy csk washers to go under the heads of these screws, commercial ones are quite thick though! If you do leave you foil assembled it might pay to fill the void in tail fin wedge which is hollow in the moulding with a Sika type material or it will fill with salt water and be the perfect environment to fizz that part of the fuselage, as an alternative to welding up a badly damaged hole you could use a stainless self taping thread insert, basically a larger bolt with a tapped hole in the centre that you need. Great series of videos !
Thanks Simon, Great additions and I agree that a torque wrench works well. Some of our group use a battery drill with a torque setting. I think if you're an active foiler I'd always encourage disassembling and washing. We are constantly changing and adjusting settings to find more speed.
Another great video indeed. What is your opinion on the use of galvanic steel bolts vs stainless bolts to attach the foil to the board, and more specifically, the differences in tensile strength between these two materials…?
There are examples of high tensile steel being used to strengthen aspects of foiling. When the "strength weight" ratio is an advantage. Foil boards have inherited the tuttle box concept, which contributes to the root cause of fastening failure and box damage. That's why the components have to be maintained. We see massive pressure on the back bolt and observe the backdown of the carbon at the top of the box where the bolt is seated. Using high tensile steel bolts is not a bad idea if you clean them to mitigate corrosion. The real issue is the box concept. Thanks for the question.
Hi thanks for the question. You have used the words fused which infers that the fastenings are stuck together. For me to answer your question could you give me some more detail. Chat soon.
@@foillabs1990 Hello Gary, I have the same question, I think he means: What do you to if the anodized layer on the aluminum has worn off by scratching, sanding, etc. ? If it's down to bare aluminum? Can you leave it as is, or you repaint ?
Great video, I'm a new wind foiler and you give some great tips. Keep good work!
Hi Gary. You do an excellent job of technical guidance, congratulations!
Many thanks!
Thx Gary. Great video!
Thanks David for your support
Always learning more and more from you Gary! You have such a great understanding
Its what I love to to.
Great stuff
Thanks from russian foilers comrade
It’s worth mentioning that you can buy cycle torque wrench so you can do them up to the same correct torque every time
, it’s a lot less than you would imagine,! Most are over tightened, It also worth mentioning that that you should tefgel the helicoil when inserting into the alloy, I personally would pull all the factory fitted helicoil inserts, and lube them up! , so you make a barrier between the different surfaces, taking apart the the foil every time does wear away the anodising seating in the fuselage for the csk heads of the screws, you can have the fuselages stripped and re anodised with a hard anodising which helps, you can also buy csk washers to go under the heads of these screws, commercial ones are quite thick though! If you do leave you foil assembled it might pay to fill the void in tail fin wedge which is hollow in the moulding with a Sika type material or it will fill with salt water and be the perfect environment to fizz that part of the fuselage, as an alternative to welding up a badly damaged hole you could use a stainless self taping thread insert, basically a larger bolt with a tapped hole in the centre that you need. Great series of videos !
Thanks Simon, all very good additions and sound advice
Thanks Simon, Great additions and I agree that a torque wrench works well. Some of our group use a battery drill with a torque setting. I think if you're an active foiler I'd always encourage disassembling and washing. We are constantly changing and adjusting settings to find more speed.
Another great video indeed.
What is your opinion on the use of galvanic steel bolts vs stainless bolts to attach the foil to the board, and more specifically, the differences in tensile strength between these two materials…?
There are examples of high tensile steel being used to strengthen aspects of foiling. When the "strength weight" ratio is an advantage. Foil boards have inherited the tuttle box concept, which contributes to the root cause of fastening failure and box damage. That's why the components have to be maintained. We see massive pressure on the back bolt and observe the backdown of the carbon at the top of the box where the bolt is seated. Using high tensile steel bolts is not a bad idea if you clean them to mitigate corrosion. The real issue is the box concept.
Thanks for the question.
Is any marine grease ok? My foil came with a 10g tube of Tef-Gel but it's crazy expensive!
very good info. Can you show in a video how tight should the foil mast be on the foil box?
Hi thanks for the question. I'll put a short video together to give some sense of assembly and forces when attaching the mast to the board.
@@foillabs1990 thanks! I always wonder how tight should the mast head fit in the box and when too tight is too much.
Hi Gary,
do you offer foil finishing services and if so how can I get in touch?
Where are you based Lauras?
If fuse is scratched … how to fix?
Hi thanks for the question. You have used the words fused which infers that the fastenings are stuck together. For me to answer your question could you give me some more detail. Chat soon.
@@foillabs1990 Hello Gary, I have the same question, I think he means:
What do you to if the anodized layer on the aluminum has worn off by scratching, sanding, etc. ? If it's down to bare aluminum? Can you leave it as is, or you repaint ?