Build a LED vacuum exposure unit for a fraction of the cost of buying one new. Screen printers DIY
Vložit
- čas přidán 19. 07. 2021
- In this video I take you thru my screen printing LED vacuum blanket exposure build that literally saved me thousands of dollars. Knowing I needed to take my screen printing up a level, capturing detailed halftones and photo realistic graphics, I knew I needed a legit exposure unit. But sticker shock set in when I searched online and saw what these glorified light boxes sold for over $2,000.00!
It’s a fancy box with some switches and and lights! Throw in a vacuum pump, how hard could it be? We’ll, it’s not. Anyone can do it, and this is how I built mine. Save your cash and follow this store quality DIY build.
Visit our site & check out our apparel line: psapparel.com/
Facebook: / prodigalseankearney
Instagram: / prodigalsonapparel
PARTS LIST
1- Used Metal Office Cabinet 3’ x 3 ½’ (36” x 42”), with 3 shelves.
142”- Aluminum Angle 1” (to hold glass) : www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-...
156” Steel Tube 1” Square (Vacuum Blanket Lid/Frame) Is Available at Home Depot but much cheaper from local steel supply
150” Steel angle 1” (Vacuum Blanket Lid/Frame) Is Available at Home Depot but much cheaper from local steel supply
6 - Carriage Bolts or Standard Hex Bolts , ½” x 2 ½” with nuts and washers
1- 3/8” tempered glass (free of defects) cut to fit from your local glass/window supplier. Shop around for best price
1- Vacuum Exposure Unit Blanket - Cut To Fit - www.ebay.com/itm/233176028969...
40’ x ½” wide x 1/8” thick, Foam Weather Strip with Adhesive; www.amazon.com/Adhesive-2-Neo...
Adjustable latches: www.amazon.com/Tegg-Cabinet-H...
3 - Round Rocker Switch or Toggle Switch 120 volt : www.amazon.com/Generic-Light-...
1- Omron Timer H5CX (Really any 120volt timer works that can be set to switch in multiple seconds) : www.ebay.com/itm/174144411874...
1- 6 Circuit Terminal Block: www.homedepot.com/p/Gardner-B...
NOTE!!! I went overkill with my lights listed below. My screens burn in 16 seconds!!! I selected HIGH DENSITY LEDs and also spaced my lights about 2.5” apart. In hindsight I could of saved some $ and got regular instead of high density. If you wanna burn in 16 sec then by all means get High Density. If deciding on regular density take the time to read item description. You might be able to use one driver instead of two, depending on overall length and wattage. Take the time, do the calculations.
2 - 16.4’ LED Strips MUST SELECT LENGTH & ULTRA VIOLET WHEN ADDING TO CART: www.ledsupply.com/led-strips/...
1 - 6’ LED Strip MUST SELECT LENGTH & ULTRA VIOLET WHEN ADDING TO CART: www.ledsupply.com/led-strips/...
2- LED Drivers part # LPV-X-X / LPV-60-12 -MUST SELECT 60 WATT 12VOLT OUTPUT WHEN ADDING TO CART : www.ledsupply.com/power-suppl...
1 - ZENY 3.5 CFM Vacuum Pump: www.amazon.com/ZENY-Single-St...
1 - 3/8” Swivel Whip Air Hose: www.harborfreight.com/3-8-eig...
Various hose fittings, nipples, hose clamps, and adaptors are needed to get from your vacuum pump swivel hose to the vacuum blanket frame/lid. Just take your swivel hose (or any heavy duty hose of your choosing that fits the vacuum pump) to the nearest supply store and come up with your unique adapters.
WIRING INFO: WIRING IS GOING TO BE DIFFERENT DEPENDING ON WHAT TYPE OF LENGTH YOU DECIDE TO GO WITH ON YOUR LED STRIPS, HOW MANY DRIVERS ARE NEEDED, TYPE OF TIMER ETC.
FOR SUBSCRIBERS THAT HAVE THE NOTIFICATION BELL TURNED ON: I WILL PERSONALLY RESPOND VIA EMAIL WITH MY SPECIFIC WIRING DIAGRAM I USED IN MY BUILD. JUST REQUEST IN THE COMMENTS AND TURN ON THAT NOTIFICATION BELL. I WILL ALSO DO MY BEST TO ADDRESS ANY ALTERCATIONS OR CHANGES IN ELECTRICAL YOU DECIDE TO DO.
i recently got into screen printing... im still just looking at the stuff and the techniques etc... but as soon i saw these vacuum exposure units i right away thought this is easy to diy...
Thanks! Your right, its not to complicated. I also have a PDF on the wiring diagram for those that need it. Just hit me up at psapparel.helpdesk@gmail.com
Thanks for these videos. These are GREAT!!!
Thanks! Im glad they help!
This is a really good video. Thank you so much for posting! God Bless!!!
Thanks!
Thank you so much for your video very helpful also very great jobs!!! and have a great day
Thank you 😊
Thank you Patrick!
I built mine using everyday use LED tubes of 20 watts. I installed 10 of them and used plywood and glass to build the box. Cost me just about $80. People say LED lights does not work, but it works and my exposure time is 45 seconds.
That’s awesome! There is more than one way to skin a cat! 🙀
This is amazing dude!
Thanks!
This is a sweet setup. My old brown halogen exposure unit is taking a dump on us. Instead of fixing it I am wanting to covert it to exactly what you have here. I certainty am not an electrical genius. This is amazing. I would really like to have your wiring schematic also. Liked, Subscribed and Rang the bell. :)
Send me an email to helpdesk.psapparel@gmail.com and I'll get that wiring diagram over to you. Thanks for the great feedback!!!
Well done! I'm in the process of facing our old Photosharp metal haloid unit dying off without practical means of getting all the parts. This gives me the courage to tackle using the carcass we have and just replacing the old Olite unit with LED and upgrading the dying vacuum pump with something that doesn't' take 2 minutes to draw down. Thanks for sharing!
Awesome! Yeah those metal halides are not easy to rebuild. Bulbs cost a fortune, the ballast weigh 20 pounds (practically). LEDs are the way to go for sure! Good luck with the task!
I wound up making it. Burns just a little slower, but I'm getting exceptional results and I think the emulsion edge to edge on auotmatic size frames is much more consistently exposed. I was getting a lot of light fall off with the old halide system. Thanks again!
@@AHallME1967 Awesome! Did you use the High Output UV LEDs? Mine burns in 16 seconds, so should be fast if you used the same?
I’d love that wiring schematic too! Super clean job
Thanks bro! I've got a crude version of the schematic I drew with pen and paper originally. I'll take the time this evening to draw up a more comprehensive diagram in CorelDraw and get that to you soon. I'll hit you back here when its done.
Email me at helpdesk.psapparel@gmail.com and I can respond/send you the wiring schematic.
We have a pool and pond contractor in my town and they had rubber pond liner material remnants for sale very cheap because they are too small to use for ponds. It's like inner tube rubber and it works great for a blanket.
Good to know! I remember someone else talking about pond liners as blankets when I was doing my research. I feel like mine is a little too think. Still works well but I wonder if a thinner liner might have even been a better option.
How you Doing Good Sir, Honestly This was an amazing video in every which way I am definitely interested in building a exposure unit as well as drying station for my own startup and this would be perfect!! I'd love to get the schematics for the wiring to be able to build my very own and if you have a better are exact same design for the drying rack as well which looked fairly simple that would be amazing, thank you for not only making your video entertaining but also engaging!!! It caught my attention and kept me engaged all the way through 😄🔥🔥🔥💯
😊Love the video! I've been thinking about doing this myself and youve answered many of ghe questions I had. On a completely different note, our cat did the same thing; very quiet when she was a young kitten/cat, much louder she got older, but with a throaty, weird meow. I had a decent pair of open back headphones on as I was watching and I thought your cat was ours! I guess that means you're using a really good mic as well!
Please forgive my typos! I went back and tried to edit but CZcams's acting up! 😅
Thanks for the response! I hope the video helps you take the leap with your own build. Years later mine is running as well as ever! Unfortunately not so much for our kitten. She had a great long life though!
would love to see how you connected the lights! thanks for this video king
Can send you a free wiring diagram. Just email me at helpdesk.psapparel@gmail.com
I work at a shop with automatic presses and this is the cheapest alternative that is on par with 5k exposure units I've worked with, the $10k exposure units has 1.5 inch spaced high density UV leds that burn in 4 seconds, but it's 10 grand. Your led unit is awesome. I'm going to try and make one for my home screen printing side stuff!
Thanks Jesse for the response! In my past life I was an electrician. That plus Im cheap! lol. So if I can build it I will. I figured its nothing more then a box with some lights.
From the link you can pick the regular or high density. I used the HD. Im getting a 16 sec burn time with the LEDs about 7" away from the glass. I wonder what I could get if I had that 1.5" space you mentioned above. Maybe close to 4 sec also?🤔
I spend more time waiting for my vac to seal then anything. In the future I might invest in a faster pump. But I went cheap. Harbor Freight.
Hi! - Awesome build. I would love to get the wiring diagram for this unit. This is a money saver for sure... I'm gathering the stuff I need to build one and that wiring diagram is mandatory for me. Thank you and keep up the good work.
Sure! Send me an email to helpdesk.psapparel@gmail.com so I have your address and I'll send you the PDF. Thanks for watching!
Thank you for sharing your diy with us. Very clean work - respect. Can you tell what photo-emulsion-product you are using that reacts that fast in the spectrum of your led light source (i guess 396-405nm) - thank you
Excellent job there mate. I'm looking to make a backup exposure unit as my metal halide bulb has just blown.....again ( could take weeks to get another and £240) Gonna email you for the wiring. Thanks for the vid.
Thanks bro! Sent to your email.
I am a teacher and planning to build an exposure unit for my printmaking class. Your video is the best among a few other DIY videos; thanks for sharing it with the public. Here are two questions: Can you burn screens with 600 dpi? Have you burnt detailed halftone and CMYK images? Thank you!
Sorry about the delay. 300LPI is the most I've done but considered very high res for Tshirt printing. Maybe you'd need higher for posters etc. I dont do so much CMYK but do a simulated process. Here is a good description of SIM process www.realthread.com/blog/what-is-simulated-process. I wish I could embed a picture here of the High Res I've done at a 300LPI but you can maybe see for yourself at my IG account @psapparel.screenprinting. There you'd see one of my high res grayscale wher youd get an idea of detail captured.
Hey there - thanks for this video! I am building my own exposure unit, but I will be using mine to print cyanotype rather than to burn screens, so I don't need the vacuum pump. I'm also in Oz so sourcing stuff closer to home. I would love to see your wiring diagram!
send me your email info and I'll shoot it over to you. You can send request to helpdesk.psapparel@gmail.com
I’d love that wiring schematic too!
For sure. Will get it to you in the next day or two. Will be working on it tonight or tomorrow.
Email me at helpdesk.psapparel@gmail.com and I can respond/send you the wiring schematic.
How many light strip did you used and how much wattage your light unit put out?
sir, what type the air faucet?
Great video, question, did you use your same power switch and timer from your fluorescent unit? I’m getting ready to convert over my fluorescent unit to LED and from my experience with converting other types of shop lights to led is 120v will go right up to the driver which converts to 12v or 24v, or the simple bypass ballast to direct wire setup where the driver is inside the led tube bulbs. So my thoughts are that I should be able to leave same switch and timer that I currently have, then simply cut the wires before the fluorescent bulb ballast and connect that cut 120v power into the driver. Then the out terminals wire to the new led’s. I don’t see a reason to change any components prior to the driver ( my vacuum switch and timer switch). Does that sound correct? It should work the same as far as turning on and shutting off? No need for any type of extra components like relays or anything? Thanks again for video and I appreciate any reply / feedback
Sorry about the delay, been a busy week. Yes, your exactly right. Either replace the florescent ballast with the LED driver or like you said, or if your using the LED bulbs that dont require a driver the bybass the ballast and run 120v directly to the bulbs (if that's what they call for...I couldn't imagine they wouldn't call for 120v)
Keep you timer and vacuum wiring just the way it is. Obviously you'll have to adjust the timer count down once finished.
I'm trying to get in to etching half tone images on glass using photoresistant films would this be the same type of machine I would need to expose the films ? or screen printing different thanks
I don't know if I fully understand the question, but yes, I expose my films with this exposure unit to screen print.
What is the distance between each of your strips? Awesome video too! I am planning on building one 4'x8' for large format photoresist to use on glass for sandcarving.
Awesome! I'd love to see that process! My LEDs are spaced at 2" 1/4" apart. Roughly 6" to 7" from the glass. If your interested in the wiring diagram I just did a follow up video with the wiring schematic included.
This is a Great Video! Thank You for sharing.
Could you tell me what type of weather stripping that you used to seal the frame?
I used a neoprene foam strip similar to the link I provided below this comment. I also put a bead of silicone between the glass and the frame.
www.amazon.com/Neoprene-Dualplex-Weather-Stripping-Adhesive/dp/B07WTRK3LX/ref=sr_1_5?crid=EHAJLBNXIAKZ&dchild=1&keywords=foam+strip+1+inch+thick&qid=1635202267&sprefix=foam+strip+1%22%2Caps%2C256&sr=8-5
@@prodigalsonapparel Thank You very much for responding. I have bought some from Home Depot and it is not getting the job done.
Hi! Very informative! I was looking at the LED, but can´t understand. 3 Ft is 14.4W but a full reel of 16.4 Ft is only 40W? Shouldn´t it be about 80W?
Great video! not sure if you mentioned the distance of the exposure lights to where the glass is with the screen to get the screen burned at that time of 16 sec?
Measured and is between 6"-7" from LED to glass.
I went through the comments and might have missed this question, but what is the purpose of the string on the screen when you expose? Great video BTW building my own unit as we speak. Thank you for your detailed and patient instructions.
That way you can pull the air and get vacuum around the screen frame. Otherwise the rubber will seal first around the frame and no longer vacuum air from the center of the frame where it is needed most.
1)For the wiring what gauge should I use.
2) At Home Depot I noticed so many spools of wire in all sorts of colors…do I need a specific color. Also are there any specific wires that I need or are most the same. Or are the colors just to help me organize example (get white colored wire to attach to neutral wire from pigtail and black wire to attach to hot wires)
3)I noticed I can’t see any of your self tapping screws from your L channel coming out the other end of your light box. How did you do that.
4)When setting up your big lights- how did you keep them upright. What parts did you use to put together the base of the bulb attached it’s attached to
Thank you so much
I prefer to use the industry standard colors but colors aren't really that important as long as you track which wire is going where. Use 14 guage for all the AC 120V connections. Use 18 for the LED DC connections.
I used my grinder to flatten off the tapers. I used some all thread with nuts to set the bug lights. Same you would find in the part section where they sell ceiling fans at Lowes or Home Depot. Next to the pull cords etc for ceiling fans.
Why two 16’ light strip AND 1 - 6’ light strip. Where does the one 6’ light strip come into play? It seems like 32 feet would be enough to light this box or am I missing something?
32 feet is enough. I just wanted consistent spacing with my personal build and the 6' gave me 2 extra rows which covers my whole box with the spacing I choose. Im sure 32 would be fine.
My man this is awesome! I made a small one myself but really basic. Imma need to upgrade it like this. Is it possible to get the schematics for the wiring? Hope to hear from you! Ding ding let the bell ring 😉
Thanks bro! It saved me a grip of money and works like a champ. Yeah, for sure, I'll send you that wiring. Email me at helpdesk.psapparel@gmail.com requesting that diagram and I'll send you a PDF. Thanks for the subscribe!
Outstanding content sir. I have an older Lawson expo 12-4’ t-5 fluorescent. Gonna do your upgrade. Would you mind to send me the wiring information?
send an email request to helpdesk.psapparel@gmail.com
What was the wire gauge you used running from the terminal block to the LED power supply and also to the two bug lights.
14 gauge
does the higher wavelengths hurt ur exposure times i use film for sandcarving but it says 365nm
No. It speeds it up. I went from 3 minutes + to now burning in 16 seconds.
High tall is that exposure unit?
Hi just a quick question where did you buy those Lid holders
Hydraulic Gas Spring Lid Support Hinge
Looking forward to hear from you if you could provide the li k or name will be really helpful I just couldn't find them which you can use for outward
Its been so long, I believe that was just an Amazon purchase. But I do wish I went bigger because they wont lift the lid without assistance. At least they keep it from going all the way back. But in hindsight I would go with a larger 20" or something closer to 100lb
Got a "traditional" copy-frame here were I wanne give a led and vakuum update.
Any suggestions for a pump wich should fit a are of ~ 120cm X 130cm [centimeter]? The actual one is so damn slow :-(
Mine is pretty slow with the vacuum pump. Considering changing the blanket to a softer more pliable blanket and using a shop vac.
Hi friend. Great video. Can you please send me the wiring diagram as well as where did you get the led strips. What emulsion are you using as well as distance from glass to where led is located? Thanks again for a great video.
The LED strips and the drivers are located in the description below the video. I've included links there also. I use CCI pro chem VPR emulsion. The glass is between 6"-7" from the strips. You can email me at sean.psapparel@gmail.com for the wiring diagram.
I’m almost ready to begin this build! It’ll take 4 weeks for the local glass shop to fulfill my order but we’re going ahead anyway.
Question: is there a preferred method of determining the slack needed before screwing down the vacuum blanket when building the frame?
Its been a while, but I believe I put a frame in place and laid the blanket over for judgement. You wont need a lot of slack, just enough to shut the top.
Hi. Is it a special type of glass? Or just ask for temper? I’m trying to do this build. Thanks in advance
Hello I was wondering where I could find your wiring schematic? I did not see it linked?
Email me at sean.psapprel@gmail.com and I'll send you the wiring diagram.
What’s the distance between your led light and the bottom of the glass?
Just measured because its been a while. 6-7" from light to glass.
Oh yeah, I forgot to tell you that’s a dynamite video, very informative and very well done. I thank you for it. I would like to know how high are the sides of that exposure unit? You know length, width, height. How tall is it? I’m building my own unit thanks to you and I do have questions about attaching the rubber blanket. It looks like the blanket is attached under your 1” tubing but you have those aluminum strips screwed down onto the top of the tubing. I’m kinda confused. Looking at the video it looks like the blanket attaches underneath. So Sean, please let me know, because I need to stay in contact through my build I could use a little help. Thanks Richard
Thanks! Its an old office cabinet layed on its back which now measures 42" x 36" x 15 "
Thank you posting. I am upgrading an old workhorse unit to led. Would please send me the wiring diagram for your unit? Thank you again.
Sure, send me your email to helpdesk.psapparel@gmail.com
It would be a great idea to compare this fancy exposure unit compared to the traditional way to see the quality of the outcome. A chemestry company did a test between bottle water an regular kitchen tap water, the findings no difference at all.
Well tons of screen printers have. I think any printers that have been around a while can tell you there are big differences in the level of detail you can capture with a vacuum blanket. Plus I now burn a screen in 16 seconds with the LEDs vs 3+ minutes from my old florescent bulbs.
www.screenprinting.com/blogs/news/compression-vs-vacuum-exposure-units
Wowwww peace and blessings to you and your family bro. Can I send you the money and you make me one like yours bro lol?
Thanks brother. Sorry, I just plan on making the one. But I encourage you to give it a try. It is satisfying to make something yourself and have it work just like the expensive ones you buy in store. I'm more then happy to share any help along the way.
Awwwwww man I'm nervous but I will give it a try and will be contacting you because I'm definitely gonna need your help. What is the string underneath the vacuum lid for?
@@yaldoshelelohim5564 You place the string over the aluminum frame of your screen into the center of your screen before you close the lid. This way the vacuum can pull air out from the center of your screen also. Other wise if the string wasnt over the frame there would be an air pocket inside of the frame and you would get no suction in the middle where you need it most.
Nice. What is the blanket? The link not working. Is a silicone?
This one looks the same. Double check the size because there are different size options from the seller. www.ebay.com/itm/333127665810?hash=item4d8ff4c892:g:IjYAAOxyeR9TJdxm&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAsH0mRjf3d3P%2BvjIaS%2BM9WbHG45a%2BFVsm%2FUaPPgrzoz0fUWLrcL4kdDqS5X6Sd03fR7K3glHHqDbA6i985iZECAVTiNKav1tOXjeuKE7JVQFV8sTtWdVZUIj2%2B0guwAJS2Tm%2F3xoJlDWoNddUiv5Ax2l6K7YiauvpQA3evbmPZCSAzIIK6NqwcIXFTOCgRJFyR4rtzHgKHMdZLN8bojWRM9HLMiPhwPkEtQpo2bH%2BE4Np%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR9yCiaX4YA
Thanks for the video, would like to get that diagram from you. Thanks!
Just sent to your email.
Nice work,
Which neno meter led used & smd or power?
The LEDs are 395-405nm. Below is a follow up video with my wiring diagram. If you look at the description under the video I have links to the LED drivers and LED lights.
czcams.com/video/CHYW-lFo21Q/video.html
Thanks bro
Amen this is the Lord !! I’d love to connect with you ! I’m just starting up printing
So what does the vacume do and is it a must to get half tones?
Light can wrap around the top of your film, even if you have a black foam pad, weighted down, holding the film tight to the screen.You can loose detail, especially on smal halftones if the film isnt super flat or tight. The vacuum blanket assure your film is as tight as possible against your screen so you dont loose any small details on the halftone.
Thanks for the detailed reply. Stay battle ready because the enemy is...
@@gocowboysgo2838 Thanks brother. So true
hello,
with this it is possible to make all types of illustrations even with a lot of details?
can i have a diagram?
Thanks sir
Yeah, Im able to capture high detail. You can email me for a PDF at helpdesk.psapparel@gmail.com
which emulsion should i use with the 50watt uv if im using plastisol ?
I work with primarily water base but do also use plastisol. I use CCI's VPR emulsion. It works with both water base and plastisol. Requires no powder activator.
@@prodigalsonapparel thank you 🤟
@@hassanhall4338 No problem!
Thank you so much for this video! Would you please send me the wiring schematic as well?
Also, what kind of timer did you use and what kind of amber safe light? Thanks!
@@user-ls6in6je1r Just a led bug light. Timer is in the description listed. Email me at helpdesk@psapparel@gmail.com for the diagram
replied below
Hi,
I am helping my Son build one of these units. I have a question on your parts list.
1. The UV LED lights. You listed 16.4" (416mm) and a 6" (152mm) strip. Why have you listed both. What is the 6" strip used for?
2. the LED Drivers. There are two listed. Could you indicate which driver is used for which LED Strip. The usage (wattage) per meter becomes greater with the length of the strip. Hence the selection of the driver becomes important. Correct me if I am wrong.
3. The vacuum membrane or Rubber blanket. What is the thickness of this sheet? On the internet is mention on 30 Shore A and 40 Shore A. Any guidance you can give here?
Thank you appreciate the video.
Good morning. Thanks for watching! 1) The reason for the extra 6' length (not 6") is because the size of my area and the spacing I have between strips. I ended up with 14 rows of LEDs at approx 33" long. I believe my spacing was 2" apart (its been a few years since the build, so those are close approx from memory and eyeballing my unit). Long and short of it. The full reel of 16.4' just wasn't long enough for my coverage area. I needed that extra 6' for the last couple of rows. But honestly in hindsight Im sure it would have been fine with just one full reel (16.2') and some extra spacing between rows. Its extremely bright and I burn my screens in 16 seconds. If I were to do it again I'd probably go with 3" apart to to to save and not purchase that last 6' strip. 2) I selected the HD high density LEDs. A full reel of the HD Ultra Violet lights will run at 40watt. So if you end up getting just one reel (16.2') you'd be at 40watts and can use just one driver rated for 60watts. When you click on the driver link I provided it only takes you to one option. But you will have to select from the drop down your wattage (60watt) and the voltage (120v). If you end up getting more then one full reel of LEDs like I did, you would want to get another driver. I ran my LEDs in parallel so to avoid any voltage drop and have more consistency in the LEDs. You can see that explained in my other video found here czcams.com/video/CHYW-lFo21Q/video.htmlfeature=shared 3) It appears the link for the blanket is no longer available. Its been so long ago I dont remember the thickness. You might have to do some more of your own research on that one.
@@prodigalsonapparelCould you tell me the thickness of the blanket and if it is EPDM? Would pond liner be just a as good.
@@mrx.2233 sorry I dont know the thickness. The post is gone from my ebay purchase. Ive heard pond liner works well. Probably close in thickness.
how can i getbthe wire diagram
email helpdesk.psapparel@gmail.com and request
I was looking at your parts list and on the strip connectors amazon stated that they were not suitable for hi intensity. I imagine since the exposure unit is only running up to 20 seconds at a time that wouldn't matter
I also noticed that the strip connectors are for a 8mm wide strip and the led strips are 10 mm wide
Ive never had an issue. Years later Im still using the same LEDs and all the wiring is 100
@@DickMoves1971Thanks for pointing that out. I'll try to get that fixed..
Thought it's time to upgrade the old grow light box and try this one. Parts in the mail - can you send me your wiring for the timer.
Sure, give me your email and ill send the wiring pdf
Thanks
@@prodigalsonapparelOne more question - I have the HD UV bulbs 10 rows, 2.5 apart 35" long columns, 350 watt driver - how far from glass is optimal? I think it's too far away. It's 14" away.
@@Richardt59 Ideally I think you'd want to be closer. You'll still get a decent burn time at 14" being that you got the HD LEds. My set up is approx 7" from the glass and I have a 16 second burn time. But from past research I found that the ideal distance is approx 3-6". If your not using a single point light source then closer is better.
Why does it need to be vacuumed?
www.screenprinting.com/blogs/news/compression-vs-vacuum-exposure-units
hey man if you're still active could i get that diagram?
Great video 👌 I made similar but light is not strong enough to burn my screens properly. Please share with blueprint. Request sent via email. 🙏
Thanks! Got your email. Im sending that over now.
Can you please send me your wiring diagram?? You can DM me for any information that you may need in order to send it to me.
Thanks bro! I've got a crude version of the schematic I drew with pen and paper originally. I'll take the time this evening to draw up a more comprehensive diagram in CorelDraw and get that to you soon. I'll hit you back here when its done.
Email me at helpdesk.psapparel@gmail.com and I can respond/send you the wiring schematic.
love the video... sent you a quick email. Please email over the blueprint/wiring info...
Thanks! Sent it over.
Ill buy this from you for $1500
Is that even legal?
Hi, great video, thank you. Confirmed my assumption that these units shouldn't be so expensive. Could you please send me on your wiring diagram? I'll drop a mail to the address you've mentioned previously. Cheers.
Thanks Gerry! Will do..