Thanks man! You saved my trip. I found out that the hole in the filter was leaking fuel right before taking off. I'm not a knowledgeable person in cars but your instructions are very straightforward. Thanks to your video I was able to fix the problem in no time. Keep up the great work!
That's great to hear! Thanks for taking the time to comment, love to hear about it when one of my videos helps someone. 😀 Well done getting it sorted 👍 Thanks, Phil
One of the best instructional videos I've ever seen on CZcams! You did a fantastic job of explaining everything. This was my first time to see your channel and I definitely subscribed and gave you a thumbs up! Thanks again for taking the time to make these videos. I really dont know if you and others that make them realize how many people you help by doing so. It is greatly appreciated. Take care...
Thanks so much @orionsbelt3332 for the very kind words! Cheers for the thumbs up too, it all helps... and great to have you as a subscriber as well 👍 I really do hope to help people, so it's always great to hear back when one of my vids has helped! Cheers, Phil 😃
mate your video has helped me no end, i knew i had a leak but didn't know where from. mine is the other hose next to yours, i'll be doing exactly the same fix. Thanks buddy, you're a life save, give yourself a good pat on the back for helping other people 👍👍👍🍻🍻🍻
@@ReviveMyRide did you get smoke coming out from the wheel arches & underneath when you had your leak? I keep getting lots of smoke, it's 100% not power steering fluid, gearbox fluid or engine oil. My diesel leak was actually happening for about 3 or 4 months, i'm wondering if diesel is laying about etc & getting hot & starting to smoke. Near the gearbox is a carpet like thing that is drenched, i think maybe this is whats smoking. Did you get smoke ? So for the long winded comment, it's driving me nuts
@@norfolkbushmanandfriends7916 Hi, no, I was lucky, I smelled the leak straight away, investigated it (as per the video) and fixed it pretty quickly. If you are sure the source of the leak was the hose (now fixed) then all I can suggest is getting the covers off from underneath (maybe drive the car like this for a while to get more air flow through the engine bay?), give the covers a good blast down with a pressure washer and maybe consider an engine bay steam clean? Maybe don't rule out another leak? Unlikely, but possible! Sorry if that isn't very helpful, I haven't had this issue before! Thanks, Phil
I think that with a non-return valve located between the tank and the diesel filter the problem of the circuit being emptied should be solved. Does the Mercedes R with the OM642 engine have any original non-return valve? Where? I don’t know. Thanks Phil.
That's a good point! Sorry, I don't know if there is a non retrun valve either, maybe someone else will chime in... Seems like a sensible addition 👍 Cheers, Phil
LEGEND, after replacing glow plugs and the gp relay i was at my wits end to my slow start issue could be. I did notice the filter is wet so reckon this will be it. Great video, thank you.
Oh yes this video helped me! I didn’t know how to detach those clamps an i was afraid of working on the fuel filter, but seeing how easy and reusable are those clamps I will be changing them for sure!!
Thanks for your comment, sounds great! The clamps aren't really that bad, just take your time with them and try to avoid damaging the hose with the screwdriver. Remember to double check them for leakage afterwards 👍
Hello friend i love your video very educative my ml350 ia not starting and when i checked up the fuel line diesel was not coming out is there a way to test the pump if its not working becuase my scanner is telling me very low fuel pressure in fuel rail
Sorry, your probably sorted it now! But if not: if you don’t hear the tank fuel pump run when you turn the ignition on, then it is worth checking the fuse for it. If it looks ok, check that power is getting to the fuel pump. I haven’t had to work on it yet but be aware that they are often in the fuel tank which is accesses under the rear seats. Take the necessary precautions for fumes and sources of ignition. Hope that helps some. I’m sure you will find a specific video for this on CZcams somewhere. Cheers, Phil
Another leak you may find where you have connection on the turbo.Oil drip into plug/socket for Swirl Flap Motor which is near fuel filter.Then only 4.7kOhm resister will help to sort limp mode :)
@@ReviveMyRide No worries-happened to me recently on E class sport 2008 .So you connect resistor to pin 2 and 3 secure plug near fuel filter and temporary fix will make you smile again :) However I do not know how long you can drive like that-i guess may clogg EGR valve or dpf quicker however cant tell You as I do not know. To me super solution however I ll be replacing swirl flap motor anyway.All the best.
Hi, I recently learned that they are called "Clip clamps" Here is an example, you might need to measure the diameter of your to make sure these go small enough. amzn.to/46HLgeI Hope that helps! Thanks, Phil
Sounds like some good work done to get to the bottom of it! 👍I've had a few people message me to say they had a problem with their high pressure fuel pump and it started to leak or not providing the correct pressure any more. Must just be the age and mileage that our cars are getting up to now!
Yes, I imagine they are a little bit more tricky to work on. Certainly, as you mentioned, the air boxes are fiddly. Diesel filter in the middle of the vee is easy to get to though. You’re a pretty handy chap but I show taking the top of the air boxes off in my “Black Death” videos.
Hi Phil, thanks for your videos. I don't speak English so I don't understand your explanations. I try to read the subtitles. .. I have a Mercedes R with an OM642 engine and for a year it starts badly when it has been stopped for a few days or when it is cold. The glow plugs are new, battery is ok and starter motor ok, injectors are ok. However, after starting up if I wait 5 or 8 seconds it starts up perfect. I have the feeling that air is entering the diesel circuit and the tube is being discharged while it is stopped. Once started, turn it off and it starts again the first time all day. What seals would you change or review? Thank you
Hi, I'm afraid there are quite a lot of things it could be but it might be a cold starting problem. Have you read the fault codes using an OBD2 scanner? I had this problem with my car and there was a fault code showing for the glow plug control unit (No warning light on the dashboard). This is a very common fault and the code for it is p0670. The part number for the control module is A6421532079 but please check your fault codes before replacing it. and once I replaced it, everything worked ok. If you had a diesel leak, I think you would know but it smells very strongly and you would be able to smell it coming through the heater vents when driving. Hope that helps! Thanks, Phil
@@ReviveMyRide Hi Phil, The control unit was checked with the OBD and it didn´t fail. However, we changed it for a new one that they have in the workshop and it continued to reproduce the error when it is cold or it hasn´t started for several days. However, you wait another 5 or 7 seconds after starting up and that's perfect... If it were the spark plugs you should do it in the summer too. No?
@@rubendariofg ok, looks like your control box is working fine then. No, if you are having problems with your glow plugs, it is usually ok in the summer but you see a problem in winter. But you say you have fitted all new glow plugs... So, I'm sorry, I'm not sure what the problem could be.
Hello comeinhandy, good afternoon Help me in this situation please. I have a jeep grandCherokee 2009 crd 3.0 limited after driving 30km shows failure in the fuel sensor past failure P2264 Fuel/water separator sensor circuit. I have already changed the sensor and filters and the obd always shows the same fault as before. could you give me some guidance? it makes me crazy
@adilsonribeirodossantos3317 Hi, I'm sorry, my car never developed this issue, so I don't have any experience to share. If you haven't already, I think you need to take the car to a Mercedes specialist who has STAR diagnostic or something similar. These diagnostic tools will tell the technician much more than just the fault code. It could be that there is a different problem than the obvious one (sensor and filters) Sorry I couldn't be more help. Thanks, Phil
Please help. Could this be the reason for my white smoke and 2020-1 code (low fuel rail pressure)? 2006 ML320. Mechanic says injectors are fine. Changed intake and pcv valve seals
I have 2 small leaks from hoses. One on the filter next you your leaking hose which fixed and one on the hose going to the high pressure pump. I’ve not yet fixed this one. Will these leaks be a possible cause for poor performance (juddering at low revs)
Never can be 100% on these things I think there is a good chance that the leaks are contributing to the juddering problem. It's where I would start anyway! Cheers, Phil
Hi, each of the injectors has a return line connected to it. To remove the fitting, there is a little collar that you need to lift. Once disconnected, there is a small “O” ring inside, which can wear. Sorry, I know this is a long video but about half way through, I disconnect a return line from an injector (I use an open ended spanner to lift the collar on the return line connection). Hope it helps! czcams.com/video/HV0XCpN76cg/video.html thanks, Phil
مرحبًا، عادة ما يكون الدخان الأسود الموجود في سيارة الديزل بمثابة وقود غير محترق. هناك الكثير من الأشياء التي يمكن أن تسبب هذه المشكلة ولكن الأكثر شيوعًا هو حاقنات الوقود المعيبة أو المتسخة. قد تحتاج إلى استخدام ترجمة جوجل لقراءة هذه الصفحة ولكنها كتابة جيدة عن الأسباب المحتملة. نأمل أن يساعد! شكرا، فيل motorcompanyleicester.co.uk/what-causes-black-smoke-from-diesel-engine/#:~:text=Black%20smoke%20indicates%20that%20the,Faulty%20injectors.
I have p0087 on this engine. Car dies once hot. And once hot it won’t start. I’m having trouble finding info on how to diagnose fuel regulator. Any help??
Hi Dave, I haven't done any work on the pressure regulator before but I have come across some info in the past. Sorry if you are already aware of this but if you want to test the rail pressure (this will give you can idea of if the regulator is working properly or not) then you need a suitable gauge and set up because the pressure is very high. Sometimes the high pressure pump can get starved if the low pressure side (tank pump and filter) isn't working properly. Here is a forum thread where they discuss it. Hope it helps you some, sorry I don't have more experience to share! sprinter-source.com/forums/index.php?threads/110018/
I have a really odd diesel leak coming from the back of the engine... I can't find the source and neither could my local mechanic.. fuel lines all fine, injectors and return lines seem fine, fuel filter fine... I'm out of ideas.
@retractablehybrid6110 You have check all of the things that I would! I know you said the return lines seem ok but on Mercedes forums, a lot of people mention a leak at the back of the engine being the "O" ring on the return line fitting on the very back cylinder where it connects to the fuel injector. It causes diesel to run down the transmission bell housing. Here's a thread where they discuss it: mbworld.org/forums/diesel-forum/800039-e350-om642-fuel-leak.html Thanks, Phil
@@ReviveMyRide You were spot on! Turns out there was no O-ring on the back left return line at all! The copper seal was done on that by a local mechanic months ago.. so they have forgotten to put an o ring on it. Thank you for your advice.
Good question @sunnytheskoolie674 A "jubilee" style hose clamp will be strong enough. However, the reason I specify a fuel line clamp is that their design is slightly different, they are completely smooth on the inside and apply force (squeeze) evenly on the hose and the fitting it is pushed onto. also, fuel clamps don't have the same "spiral drive" for tightening like a jubilee does, the arc / curve of which sometimes doesn't match 100% the diameter of the hose that you are tightening onto. Therefore, fuel line clamps are much less likely to leak! Thanks, Phil
hi i had the same pipe do the same thing i done what you did and now the car doesnt start can you advise what to do next, the car was working fine now just cranks over but doesnt start. many thanks
I'm pretty sure that the problem is air in the fuel system. Mercs are terrible for it! Here is a process that should work but it sometimes takes some time: 1) turn the ignition on to the point just before the starter would normally engage. You should hear the fuel pump near the tank run. Turn the ignition completely off again. Repeat the process 5 or 6 times. 2) Now try to start the car. If it cranks and cranks, wait a while (say 5 mins) for the starter motor to cool a little bit and then try again). You may need to charge your battery for a while ad try again, sometimes it can take a dozen tries before it will start. 3) (optional) If you have got the equipment for it, jack up the rear of the car as high as you safely can, apparently this makes it easier to prime the system. Hope this helps! Please let me know how you get on! Cheers, Phil
Thanks for the vid. I have this engine in a Jeep. I've had endless issues with the hose on the filter. Do you know what PSI hose is required ? My hoses had hose clamps and have performed fine. Might make things a little easier.
Hi, I'm pretty sure they are just high pressure rubber fuel hose, suitable for cars with fuel injection and compliant with E85 fuel (Ethanol in fuel). Here's an example of some: t.ly/9dwYy However, on the Merc forums, lots of people are buying from Mercedes because apparently they are shaped and they are worried about the hose kinking. Here's a post about it. forums.mercedesclub.org.uk/index.php?threads/320-cdi-fuel-filter-hoses-spec-replacement.197911/ Personally, I would buy some hose and give it a try, if it fits without kinking, then that's how I would do it before going to Merc. Hope that helps, Phil
Hi Alex, thanks for your message, always interesting to see how others are getting on with this! Were you able to stop the leak by tightening the fitting or is it going to require more work than that? Thanks, Phil
@@ReviveMyRide i actually haven't touched it at the moment am currently doing as much research as possible before i decide to tackle it myself or not. Am getting stuck at weather i need to find tdc for the weighted gear its runs off on the cam. As i may have to redo a seal or 2 so will change the position of the gear on the pump having to handle it. to the gear position on the cam. Any tips or am i getting caught up in 1 of these internet threads that take you round on circles for nothing.
I keep coming back to this video to find my leak, when i turn my car on and wait for the glow light to go out, I still have to wait 5 seconds or so before I can start the car to build pressure. I can't see any leaks mentioned in this video but on the right hand side looking down at the engine its wet around one or two glow plugs under the rail... I can't work out where its coming from! I did new plugs a few months ago and sure they are in properly and tight...
I'm really not sure. The glow plugs don't need much torque and presumably if you replaced them, they had a new seal on them. I see that the high pressure fuel rail is above the glow plugs, it might be worth checking the tightness of the various nuts on them, especially if you have had them undone. They have to be pretty tight due to the very high pressure that the high pressure fuel pump generates. Thanks, Phil
@@MrProjekts Just one other idea is the return line connection onto the fuel injectors. There is a little collet that holds these in place and an O ring within it, they are know to be problematic. Here's a little clip from another of my videos that shows the part I mean czcams.com/users/clipUgkx5H6sUMonfxvCK0XXXr_-jzjNBH4UgEr3?si=3z9K34h4MwrqNDGY Thanks, Phil
OK so I have low pressure in the fuel rail after fitting a new injector, and the car won't start. It's on my A180D but essentially same principles apply here. I didn't fit a new high-pressure fuel line to the new injector, I wonder if it's that. What do you think? Thanks for this video! I can't find anything similar for my model. Merc wanted about £1500 to do the job.
Hi, the main thing that effects the fuel pressure in the rail is the high pressure pump and the fuel pressure regulator. If these were working before, then I suspect you might have a priming issue. They can be quite a pain to prime again once you have done some work on the fuel rail. Usually, if you turn the key, listen for the system to prime, turn it off again, do the same again (without starting the car) about half a dozen times and then turn the car to start, you can get it. But some people have to crank the engine over quite a lot. They put a charger on the battery, then crank it over 3-4 times, then let it charge for a while, try it again etc. The other thing that seems to work is jacking up the rear of the car quite far to raise the fuel tank. I don't understand why this would make the difference but there are lots of posts saying it helped! Hope this helps! Thanks, Phil
Hello friend, i have a jeep grand cherokee and the leak is coming from the fuel injector return line plastic part you mention at 2:25 into the video. You mentioned a collett or something you pull out to change the oring. Could you help me out and explain that collett thing? Thanks
I’ll try my best! The return line connection onto fuel injector has a little collar on it, which is the fastening mechanism to lock it in place. In the video, you will see I use a wrench to push the collar down (it only moves about 1/4”) and then the return line can be pulled free. Crucially, inside there is a little O ring. Here is a link to a MB forum with some photos. mbworld.org/forums/diesel-forum/622346-replaced-injector-om642.html Hope that helps! Thanks, Phil
Hi, the dpf and sensors are on the exhaust system near the cat. Here is a really good forum thread plus links to videos that should give you all of the info you need. www.benzworld.org/threads/dpf-pressure-sensor-where-is-it.2745402/ Cheers, Phil
Kinda related, I have the same w211 as the video but I'm having an issue where the car runs out of fuel while showing 1/4 tank left on gauge have change both sender unit and pump in tank, fuel filter and from reading forums it possible that high-pressure pump isn't returning fuel to create venturi effect in tank, has anyone came across this?
I have a fuel leak on the fuel inlet into the high pressure pump on my Mercedes W203 270 cdi. I suspect it's the Small o ring on the very end of the fuel line connector (the small black one not the white outer cushion ring). I'm having a devil of a job sourcing a replacement. Could anyone help me with a merc part number please. Great video btw.
Hi Stephen, thanks for your kind comments! 😊 I use a free online resource for finding part numbers called Nemigmaparts.com From your description, I think the part you are looking for is number 198, part no. A6019970645 in the diagram but please double check! Part numbers and diagrams for your car here: nemigaparts.com/cat_spares/epc/mercedes/1/m/612962/21t/07/120/?chasis=20301665F You can double check what the part looks like and that it fits your car on Autodoc here: www.autodoc.co.uk/spares-search?keyword=A6019970645 (Just click on the compatibility section at the bottom on Autodoc) Hope that helps! Thanks, Phil
@@ReviveMyRide Hi Phil Thank you for your speedy reply. Really impressive. I'll check out the links and let you know. As a temp fix. I've cleaned the o ring and inlet. Then smeared with a little Vaseline and fitted back together. As it's on the low pressure side of the pump I'm praying this works until I can get my hands on a new o ring. I'll update here how things work out. Ta again.
Hope the temp fix keeps you going! BTW, should have mentioned before, I have found Mercedes dealers to be more than reasonable on price in the past and an O ring wouldn't be expensive anyway. One time I priced up a lot of parts from 3 different sources and Merc actually came out cheaper! You my find that they are worth a shout. Thanks, would be great to here how you get on! Cheers, Phil
@@ReviveMyRide Hi Phil I contacted Mercedes parts department at my nearest dealer. As you suggest, and much to my surprise, they were really helpful and posted me 2 replacement o rings for a fraction of the cost on ebay etc. Fitted both o rings but sadly not fixed leak. So it's probably the pump gasket on the plate just below the fuel inlet. I'm going to order the pump repair kit and overhaul the pump hoping I'm right. I'm very new to all this but learning. I massively appreciate your help and interest.
Hi Stephen, glad the advice helped and that Mercedes were responsive, always worry that people will get a different experience once I recommend them! I'm really interested in your work! I'm a home mechanic myself, which means, if it's something new to me, I have to learn it too! Hence, I haven't carried out the work myself that you are doing on the pump but I'm interested to see how you get on. Sometimes a few things stick in my head for if I ever need to do the job! Keep in touch if you want to bounce any ideas about! Thanks, Phil
Hi Dave, I just had a quick look. It looks reasonably easy and would take an hour or two depending on your experience level. To get access to the hose, you need to remove the air inlet pipe to the turbo (the black plastic one that runs from the left and right hand side airboxes), this can be a little tricky because you need to pull the hose off of the air boxes on both sides. Sometimes it is worth loosening the air box mounting bolts to give some play. Then you will need to remove the aluminum turbo outlet pipe. Now you should have access to the fuel hose and it is held in a plastic channel, which you will probably need to loosen or undo. You will need to make sure you use proper fuel hose (as it is pressure rated and resistant to the fuel) and I'm pretty sure it is 7mm internal diameter / 13mm external diameter and if I was you, I would buy some fuel hose clamps, just in case you aren't able to refit the original clamps. My injector "inspection" video will show you how to remove the air box and turbo inlet pipe: czcams.com/video/7weS1vQ_1OI/video.html I'm afraid I don't have any footage from there onwards though! You will probably find better places to buy these items but here are a couple of links to the fuel hose and clamps you should consider: Fuel hose - amzn.to/3HgElxj fuel hose clamp: amzn.to/3D8mLsZ Hope this helps! If you have time, would be great to hear how you get on and it may help others if they read it. Thanks, Phil
@@ReviveMyRide Phil, thanks for your rapid and detailed response. I am planning on getting parts this week and having a look next weekend. I will certainly reply and give an update on how the job goes. Again Thanks!!
Sorry that the quick fix of snipping back the hose didn't solve the problem, 90% of the time it does but looks like you were unlucky! At 04:20 in the video, I mention that if it doesn't solve your problem, then you need to replace the hose. If you measure the external and internal diameters of the hose, you should be able to pick up a length of high pressure fuel hose quite cheaply. 👍
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@razor6888 Really interesting comment! Totally respect your opinion as I'm sure it is based on your own experience but my own view couldn't be more different! I drove the car for 10yrs and 100k miles and it never let me down or needed any major maintenance. Diesel leak in the video was due to a worn hose that occurred through changing the fuel filter many times over the life of the engine. I love the engine so much, I searched high and low for a newer Mercedes car where they were still using it! Thanks, Phil
@@ReviveMyRide I'm pretty sure I have the same exact issue on a 2011 (small amount of diesel fuel on top of the filter). It doesn't look like there's much slack in the hoses so I may be ordering a new hose. From the top you can't see which one is leaking. Going to try to slip something under each hose to see which one has fuel on it. Looks like either $9 or $20 depending if it's the return or the high pressure line.
@@matsudakodo Sounds like you have really narrowed down where your leak is coming from though, which is good news! Also, great that it looks like it's going to be a fairly cheap fix - good work! 👍 Cheers, Phil
Thanks man! You saved my trip. I found out that the hole in the filter was leaking fuel right before taking off. I'm not a knowledgeable person in cars but your instructions are very straightforward. Thanks to your video I was able to fix the problem in no time. Keep up the great work!
That's great to hear! Thanks for taking the time to comment, love to hear about it when one of my videos helps someone. 😀 Well done getting it sorted 👍 Thanks, Phil
One of the best instructional videos I've ever seen on CZcams! You did a fantastic job of explaining everything. This was my first time to see your channel and I definitely subscribed and gave you a thumbs up! Thanks again for taking the time to make these videos. I really dont know if you and others that make them realize how many people you help by doing so. It is greatly appreciated. Take care...
Thanks so much @orionsbelt3332 for the very kind words! Cheers for the thumbs up too, it all helps... and great to have you as a subscriber as well 👍 I really do hope to help people, so it's always great to hear back when one of my vids has helped! Cheers, Phil 😃
mate your video has helped me no end, i knew i had a leak but didn't know where from. mine is the other hose next to yours, i'll be doing exactly the same fix. Thanks buddy, you're a life save, give yourself a good pat on the back for helping other people 👍👍👍🍻🍻🍻
Hi @norfolkbushmanandfriends7916 Thanks so much! 😀 Really appreciate your comment and you for taking the time to write it! 👍
@@ReviveMyRide did you get smoke coming out from the wheel arches & underneath when you had your leak? I keep getting lots of smoke, it's 100% not power steering fluid, gearbox fluid or engine oil. My diesel leak was actually happening for about 3 or 4 months, i'm wondering if diesel is laying about etc & getting hot & starting to smoke. Near the gearbox is a carpet like thing that is drenched, i think maybe this is whats smoking.
Did you get smoke ?
So for the long winded comment, it's driving me nuts
@@norfolkbushmanandfriends7916 Hi, no, I was lucky, I smelled the leak straight away, investigated it (as per the video) and fixed it pretty quickly. If you are sure the source of the leak was the hose (now fixed) then all I can suggest is getting the covers off from underneath (maybe drive the car like this for a while to get more air flow through the engine bay?), give the covers a good blast down with a pressure washer and maybe consider an engine bay steam clean? Maybe don't rule out another leak? Unlikely, but possible! Sorry if that isn't very helpful, I haven't had this issue before! Thanks, Phil
@@norfolkbushmanandfriends7916same here now, leaking next to what was in video and smoke coming from arches, steering got difficult too.
I think that with a non-return valve located between the tank and the diesel filter the problem of the circuit being emptied should be solved.
Does the Mercedes R with the OM642 engine have any original non-return valve? Where? I don’t know.
Thanks Phil.
That's a good point! Sorry, I don't know if there is a non retrun valve either, maybe someone else will chime in... Seems like a sensible addition 👍 Cheers, Phil
I have the OM642 and was considering doing a fuel filter change. Thanks.
No probs and thanks for the comment! 👍😀
LEGEND, after replacing glow plugs and the gp relay i was at my wits end to my slow start issue could be. I did notice the filter is wet so reckon this will be it. Great video, thank you.
Fantastic! Thanks @19Camo92 for taking the time to comment, love it when one of my videos helps somebody out with an issue! 🙌
Oh yes this video helped me! I didn’t know how to detach those clamps an i was afraid of working on the fuel filter, but seeing how easy and reusable are those clamps I will be changing them for sure!!
Thanks for your comment, sounds great! The clamps aren't really that bad, just take your time with them and try to avoid damaging the hose with the screwdriver. Remember to double check them for leakage afterwards 👍
Oil cooler leak from the seals is also a common leak on this engines
The oil cooler leak is at the bottom of the engine
But this leak is at the top of the engine
There is also a set of low pressure lines running from the fuel return back to the fuel tank. It's behind the engine.
Good point! Thanks for the added info 👍
Hello friend i love your video very educative my ml350 ia not starting and when i checked up the fuel line diesel was not coming out is there a way to test the pump if its not working becuase my scanner is telling me very low fuel pressure in fuel rail
Sorry, your probably sorted it now! But if not: if you don’t hear the tank fuel pump run when you turn the ignition on, then it is worth checking the fuse for it. If it looks ok, check that power is getting to the fuel pump. I haven’t had to work on it yet but be aware that they are often in the fuel tank which is accesses under the rear seats. Take the necessary precautions for fumes and sources of ignition. Hope that helps some. I’m sure you will find a specific video for this on CZcams somewhere. Cheers, Phil
Another leak you may find where you have connection on the turbo.Oil drip into plug/socket for Swirl Flap Motor which is near fuel filter.Then only 4.7kOhm resister will help to sort limp mode :)
Thanks for the info, I'll keep an eye out for that! 👍
@@ReviveMyRide No worries-happened to me recently on E class sport 2008 .So you connect resistor to pin 2 and 3 secure plug near fuel filter and temporary fix will make you smile again :) However I do not know how long you can drive like that-i guess may clogg EGR valve or dpf quicker however cant tell You as I do not know. To me super solution however I ll be replacing swirl flap motor anyway.All the best.
Great video. Can you tell me where I can buy those specific replacement fuel hose clamps - can't see them anywhere on ebay or amazon?
Hi, I recently learned that they are called "Clip clamps" Here is an example, you might need to measure the diameter of your to make sure these go small enough. amzn.to/46HLgeI Hope that helps! Thanks, Phil
Just had my high pressure replaced and the low pressure hose and also, the injector hard line torqued down on injector 2… all that solved mine 😂
Sounds like some good work done to get to the bottom of it! 👍I've had a few people message me to say they had a problem with their high pressure fuel pump and it started to leak or not providing the correct pressure any more. Must just be the age and mileage that our cars are getting up to now!
Mind if I ask how much you paid to have the high pressure replaced? I have a $2000 quote which seems astronomical. But its Mercedes.
Checking a few vids re the V6 service and it appears a bit more involved than the 220, even changing the air filters seems to be complicated !
Yes, I imagine they are a little bit more tricky to work on. Certainly, as you mentioned, the air boxes are fiddly. Diesel filter in the middle of the vee is easy to get to though. You’re a pretty handy chap but I show taking the top of the air boxes off in my “Black Death” videos.
Hi Phil, thanks for your videos.
I don't speak English so I don't understand your explanations. I try to read the subtitles. ..
I have a Mercedes R with an OM642 engine and for a year it starts badly when it has been stopped for a few days or when it is cold. The glow plugs are new, battery is ok and starter motor ok, injectors are ok.
However, after starting up if I wait 5 or 8 seconds it starts up perfect.
I have the feeling that air is entering the diesel circuit and the tube is being discharged while it is stopped. Once started, turn it off and it starts again the first time all day.
What seals would you change or review?
Thank you
Hi, I'm afraid there are quite a lot of things it could be but it might be a cold starting problem. Have you read the fault codes using an OBD2 scanner? I had this problem with my car and there was a fault code showing for the glow plug control unit (No warning light on the dashboard). This is a very common fault and the code for it is p0670. The part number for the control module is A6421532079 but please check your fault codes before replacing it. and once I replaced it, everything worked ok. If you had a diesel leak, I think you would know but it smells very strongly and you would be able to smell it coming through the heater vents when driving. Hope that helps! Thanks, Phil
@@ReviveMyRide Hi Phil,
The control unit was checked with the OBD and it didn´t fail.
However, we changed it for a new one that they have in the workshop and it continued to reproduce the error when it is cold or it hasn´t started for several days.
However, you wait another 5 or 7 seconds after starting up and that's perfect...
If it were the spark plugs you should do it in the summer too. No?
@@rubendariofg ok, looks like your control box is working fine then. No, if you are having problems with your glow plugs, it is usually ok in the summer but you see a problem in winter. But you say you have fitted all new glow plugs... So, I'm sorry, I'm not sure what the problem could be.
does somebody has the part numbers for the fuel lines to and from the filter?
Hi @jdl7100 This might help you. nemigaparts.com/cat_spares/epc/mercedes/1/m/642910/63h/07/110/?chasis=20932069M Thanks, Phil
Hello comeinhandy,
good afternoon
Help me in this situation please.
I have a jeep grandCherokee 2009 crd 3.0 limited after driving 30km shows failure in the fuel sensor past failure P2264 Fuel/water separator sensor circuit.
I have already changed the sensor and filters and the obd always shows the same fault as before.
could you give me some guidance?
it makes me crazy
@adilsonribeirodossantos3317 Hi, I'm sorry, my car never developed this issue, so I don't have any experience to share. If you haven't already, I think you need to take the car to a Mercedes specialist who has STAR diagnostic or something similar. These diagnostic tools will tell the technician much more than just the fault code. It could be that there is a different problem than the obvious one (sensor and filters) Sorry I couldn't be more help. Thanks, Phil
@@ReviveMyRide thank you very much for answering
@@adilsonribeirodossantos3317 No probs! Hope you get it sorted!
Please help. Could this be the reason for my white smoke and 2020-1 code (low fuel rail pressure)? 2006 ML320. Mechanic says injectors are fine. Changed intake and pcv valve seals
I have 2 small leaks from hoses. One on the filter next you your leaking hose which fixed and one on the hose going to the high pressure pump. I’ve not yet fixed this one. Will these leaks be a possible cause for poor performance (juddering at low revs)
Never can be 100% on these things I think there is a good chance that the leaks are contributing to the juddering problem. It's where I would start anyway! Cheers, Phil
hello friend, it loses me at the top of an injector for the connection of the return line. the small joint that you say where it goes?
Hi, each of the injectors has a return line connected to it. To remove the fitting, there is a little collar that you need to lift. Once disconnected, there is a small “O” ring inside, which can wear. Sorry, I know this is a long video but about half way through, I disconnect a return line from an injector (I use an open ended spanner to lift the collar on the return line connection). Hope it helps! czcams.com/video/HV0XCpN76cg/video.html thanks, Phil
السلام عليكم أخويه عندك نفس هاي المكينة 642 بيها دخان أسود وعزم هم ما بيها بلكي شوفلي حل الأن تعبت منها رحمه على والديك
مرحبًا، عادة ما يكون الدخان الأسود الموجود في سيارة الديزل بمثابة وقود غير محترق. هناك الكثير من الأشياء التي يمكن أن تسبب هذه المشكلة ولكن الأكثر شيوعًا هو حاقنات الوقود المعيبة أو المتسخة. قد تحتاج إلى استخدام ترجمة جوجل لقراءة هذه الصفحة ولكنها كتابة جيدة عن الأسباب المحتملة. نأمل أن يساعد! شكرا، فيل motorcompanyleicester.co.uk/what-causes-black-smoke-from-diesel-engine/#:~:text=Black%20smoke%20indicates%20that%20the,Faulty%20injectors.
Thank You
No probs! Thanks for commenting! 😊
I have p0087 on this engine. Car dies once hot. And once hot it won’t start. I’m having trouble finding info on how to diagnose fuel regulator. Any help??
Hi Dave, I haven't done any work on the pressure regulator before but I have come across some info in the past. Sorry if you are already aware of this but if you want to test the rail pressure (this will give you can idea of if the regulator is working properly or not) then you need a suitable gauge and set up because the pressure is very high. Sometimes the high pressure pump can get starved if the low pressure side (tank pump and filter) isn't working properly. Here is a forum thread where they discuss it. Hope it helps you some, sorry I don't have more experience to share! sprinter-source.com/forums/index.php?threads/110018/
I have a really odd diesel leak coming from the back of the engine... I can't find the source and neither could my local mechanic.. fuel lines all fine, injectors and return lines seem fine, fuel filter fine... I'm out of ideas.
@retractablehybrid6110 You have check all of the things that I would! I know you said the return lines seem ok but on Mercedes forums, a lot of people mention a leak at the back of the engine being the "O" ring on the return line fitting on the very back cylinder where it connects to the fuel injector. It causes diesel to run down the transmission bell housing. Here's a thread where they discuss it: mbworld.org/forums/diesel-forum/800039-e350-om642-fuel-leak.html Thanks, Phil
@@ReviveMyRide You were spot on! Turns out there was no O-ring on the back left return line at all! The copper seal was done on that by a local mechanic months ago.. so they have forgotten to put an o ring on it. Thank you for your advice.
@@retractablehybrid6110 Fantastic! Thanks very much for your update, glad the additional info helped 👍 Thanks, Phil
Would a regular hose clamp that you can tighten work for that line? Or not strong enough? Thanks
Good question @sunnytheskoolie674 A "jubilee" style hose clamp will be strong enough. However, the reason I specify a fuel line clamp is that their design is slightly different, they are completely smooth on the inside and apply force (squeeze) evenly on the hose and the fitting it is pushed onto. also, fuel clamps don't have the same "spiral drive" for tightening like a jubilee does, the arc / curve of which sometimes doesn't match 100% the diameter of the hose that you are tightening onto. Therefore, fuel line clamps are much less likely to leak! Thanks, Phil
hi i had the same pipe do the same thing i done what you did and now the car doesnt start can you advise what to do next, the car was working fine now just cranks over but doesnt start. many thanks
I'm pretty sure that the problem is air in the fuel system. Mercs are terrible for it! Here is a process that should work but it sometimes takes some time: 1) turn the ignition on to the point just before the starter would normally engage. You should hear the fuel pump near the tank run. Turn the ignition completely off again. Repeat the process 5 or 6 times. 2) Now try to start the car. If it cranks and cranks, wait a while (say 5 mins) for the starter motor to cool a little bit and then try again). You may need to charge your battery for a while ad try again, sometimes it can take a dozen tries before it will start. 3) (optional) If you have got the equipment for it, jack up the rear of the car as high as you safely can, apparently this makes it easier to prime the system. Hope this helps! Please let me know how you get on! Cheers, Phil
@@ReviveMyRide thanks for the fast reply i will try it all now👍🏻
Topman
Cheers!
Thanks for the vid. I have this engine in a Jeep.
I've had endless issues with the hose on the filter. Do you know what PSI hose is required ?
My hoses had hose clamps and have performed fine. Might make things a little easier.
Hi, I'm pretty sure they are just high pressure rubber fuel hose, suitable for cars with fuel injection and compliant with E85 fuel (Ethanol in fuel). Here's an example of some: t.ly/9dwYy However, on the Merc forums, lots of people are buying from Mercedes because apparently they are shaped and they are worried about the hose kinking. Here's a post about it. forums.mercedesclub.org.uk/index.php?threads/320-cdi-fuel-filter-hoses-spec-replacement.197911/ Personally, I would buy some hose and give it a try, if it fits without kinking, then that's how I would do it before going to Merc. Hope that helps, Phil
Awesome. That helps a lot. Thank you.
@@michaelgoodwin5162 No probs, hope you get on ok with it! 👍
Yep i found one 3 hours ago in the front lower right side of the pump. 😔
Hi Alex, thanks for your message, always interesting to see how others are getting on with this! Were you able to stop the leak by tightening the fitting or is it going to require more work than that? Thanks, Phil
@@ReviveMyRide i actually haven't touched it at the moment am currently doing as much research as possible before i decide to tackle it myself or not. Am getting stuck at weather i need to find tdc for the weighted gear its runs off on the cam. As i may have to redo a seal or 2 so will change the position of the gear on the pump having to handle it. to the gear position on the cam. Any tips or am i getting caught up in 1 of these internet threads that take you round on circles for nothing.
I keep coming back to this video to find my leak, when i turn my car on and wait for the glow light to go out, I still have to wait 5 seconds or so before I can start the car to build pressure. I can't see any leaks mentioned in this video but on the right hand side looking down at the engine its wet around one or two glow plugs under the rail... I can't work out where its coming from! I did new plugs a few months ago and sure they are in properly and tight...
I'm really not sure. The glow plugs don't need much torque and presumably if you replaced them, they had a new seal on them. I see that the high pressure fuel rail is above the glow plugs, it might be worth checking the tightness of the various nuts on them, especially if you have had them undone. They have to be pretty tight due to the very high pressure that the high pressure fuel pump generates. Thanks, Phil
@@ReviveMyRide double checked all of those, I'm starting to think it's injectors but will continue on! Thanks for the reply
@@MrProjekts Just one other idea is the return line connection onto the fuel injectors. There is a little collet that holds these in place and an O ring within it, they are know to be problematic. Here's a little clip from another of my videos that shows the part I mean czcams.com/users/clipUgkx5H6sUMonfxvCK0XXXr_-jzjNBH4UgEr3?si=3z9K34h4MwrqNDGY Thanks, Phil
OK so I have low pressure in the fuel rail after fitting a new injector, and the car won't start. It's on my A180D but essentially same principles apply here. I didn't fit a new high-pressure fuel line to the new injector, I wonder if it's that. What do you think? Thanks for this video! I can't find anything similar for my model. Merc wanted about £1500 to do the job.
Hi, the main thing that effects the fuel pressure in the rail is the high pressure pump and the fuel pressure regulator. If these were working before, then I suspect you might have a priming issue. They can be quite a pain to prime again once you have done some work on the fuel rail. Usually, if you turn the key, listen for the system to prime, turn it off again, do the same again (without starting the car) about half a dozen times and then turn the car to start, you can get it. But some people have to crank the engine over quite a lot. They put a charger on the battery, then crank it over 3-4 times, then let it charge for a while, try it again etc. The other thing that seems to work is jacking up the rear of the car quite far to raise the fuel tank. I don't understand why this would make the difference but there are lots of posts saying it helped! Hope this helps! Thanks, Phil
Hello friend, i have a jeep grand cherokee and the leak is coming from the fuel injector return line plastic part you mention at 2:25 into the video. You mentioned a collett or something you pull out to change the oring. Could you help me out and explain that collett thing?
Thanks
I’ll try my best! The return line connection onto fuel injector has a little collar on it, which is the fastening mechanism to lock it in place. In the video, you will see I use a wrench to push the collar down (it only moves about 1/4”) and then the return line can be pulled free. Crucially, inside there is a little O ring. Here is a link to a MB forum with some photos. mbworld.org/forums/diesel-forum/622346-replaced-injector-om642.html Hope that helps! Thanks, Phil
@@ReviveMyRide thanks Phil. Fixed it in 10 minutes.
@@goodbyeroom306 Great to hear, thanks for messaging back! 👍😀
Super 👍
Thanks! 🙏 😊
Where is the dpf sensor
Hi, the dpf and sensors are on the exhaust system near the cat. Here is a really good forum thread plus links to videos that should give you all of the info you need. www.benzworld.org/threads/dpf-pressure-sensor-where-is-it.2745402/ Cheers, Phil
Kinda related, I have the same w211 as the video but I'm having an issue where the car runs out of fuel while showing 1/4 tank left on gauge have change both sender unit and pump in tank, fuel filter and from reading forums it possible that high-pressure pump isn't returning fuel to create venturi effect in tank, has anyone came across this?
Sorry, I haven't maybe some others will comment!
I have a fuel leak on the fuel inlet into the high pressure pump on my Mercedes W203 270 cdi. I suspect it's the Small o ring on the very end of the fuel line connector (the small black one not the white outer cushion ring).
I'm having a devil of a job sourcing a replacement. Could anyone help me with a merc part number please. Great video btw.
Hi Stephen, thanks for your kind comments! 😊 I use a free online resource for finding part numbers called Nemigmaparts.com From your description, I think the part you are looking for is number 198, part no. A6019970645 in the diagram but please double check! Part numbers and diagrams for your car here: nemigaparts.com/cat_spares/epc/mercedes/1/m/612962/21t/07/120/?chasis=20301665F You can double check what the part looks like and that it fits your car on Autodoc here: www.autodoc.co.uk/spares-search?keyword=A6019970645 (Just click on the compatibility section at the bottom on Autodoc) Hope that helps! Thanks, Phil
@@ReviveMyRide Hi Phil
Thank you for your speedy reply. Really impressive. I'll check out the links and let you know. As a temp fix. I've cleaned the o ring and inlet. Then smeared with a little Vaseline and fitted back together. As it's on the low pressure side of the pump I'm praying this works until I can get my hands on a new o ring. I'll update here how things work out. Ta again.
Hope the temp fix keeps you going! BTW, should have mentioned before, I have found Mercedes dealers to be more than reasonable on price in the past and an O ring wouldn't be expensive anyway. One time I priced up a lot of parts from 3 different sources and Merc actually came out cheaper! You my find that they are worth a shout. Thanks, would be great to here how you get on! Cheers, Phil
@@ReviveMyRide Hi Phil
I contacted Mercedes parts department at my nearest dealer. As you suggest, and much to my surprise, they were really helpful and posted me 2 replacement o rings for a fraction of the cost on ebay etc.
Fitted both o rings but sadly not fixed leak. So it's probably the pump gasket on the plate just below the fuel inlet.
I'm going to order the pump repair kit and overhaul the pump hoping I'm right.
I'm very new to all this but learning. I massively appreciate your help and interest.
Hi Stephen, glad the advice helped and that Mercedes were responsive, always worry that people will get a different experience once I recommend them! I'm really interested in your work! I'm a home mechanic myself, which means, if it's something new to me, I have to learn it too! Hence, I haven't carried out the work myself that you are doing on the pump but I'm interested to see how you get on. Sometimes a few things stick in my head for if I ever need to do the job! Keep in touch if you want to bounce any ideas about! Thanks, Phil
how easy is it to replace the very same hose?
Hi Dave, I just had a quick look. It looks reasonably easy and would take an hour or two depending on your experience level. To get access to the hose, you need to remove the air inlet pipe to the turbo (the black plastic one that runs from the left and right hand side airboxes), this can be a little tricky because you need to pull the hose off of the air boxes on both sides. Sometimes it is worth loosening the air box mounting bolts to give some play. Then you will need to remove the aluminum turbo outlet pipe. Now you should have access to the fuel hose and it is held in a plastic channel, which you will probably need to loosen or undo. You will need to make sure you use proper fuel hose (as it is pressure rated and resistant to the fuel) and I'm pretty sure it is 7mm internal diameter / 13mm external diameter and if I was you, I would buy some fuel hose clamps, just in case you aren't able to refit the original clamps. My injector "inspection" video will show you how to remove the air box and turbo inlet pipe: czcams.com/video/7weS1vQ_1OI/video.html I'm afraid I don't have any footage from there onwards though! You will probably find better places to buy these items but here are a couple of links to the fuel hose and clamps you should consider: Fuel hose - amzn.to/3HgElxj fuel hose clamp: amzn.to/3D8mLsZ Hope this helps! If you have time, would be great to hear how you get on and it may help others if they read it. Thanks, Phil
@@ReviveMyRide Phil, thanks for your rapid and detailed response. I am planning on getting parts this week and having a look next weekend. I will certainly reply and give an update on how the job goes. Again Thanks!!
@@davemyers9128 No probs, happy to help when I can! Good luck with it!
Did not help me, leakage in same place, cut hose, put new clamp, still leaking
Sorry that the quick fix of snipping back the hose didn't solve the problem, 90% of the time it does but looks like you were unlucky! At 04:20 in the video, I mention that if it doesn't solve your problem, then you need to replace the hose. If you measure the external and internal diameters of the hose, you should be able to pick up a length of high pressure fuel hose quite cheaply. 👍
@@ReviveMyRide ordered new one, will try today to replace it
@@andkulikov Sounds good, hope it works for you!
Someone can help me please?
Hello
Its not S 211 its E 211
Ok, thanks! 👍
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Pure garbage engine... I refuse to work on them. Scrap the lot and be done with it.
@razor6888 Really interesting comment! Totally respect your opinion as I'm sure it is based on your own experience but my own view couldn't be more different! I drove the car for 10yrs and 100k miles and it never let me down or needed any major maintenance. Diesel leak in the video was due to a worn hose that occurred through changing the fuel filter many times over the life of the engine. I love the engine so much, I searched high and low for a newer Mercedes car where they were still using it! Thanks, Phil
@@ReviveMyRide I'm pretty sure I have the same exact issue on a 2011 (small amount of diesel fuel on top of the filter). It doesn't look like there's much slack in the hoses so I may be ordering a new hose. From the top you can't see which one is leaking. Going to try to slip something under each hose to see which one has fuel on it. Looks like either $9 or $20 depending if it's the return or the high pressure line.
@@matsudakodo Sounds like you have really narrowed down where your leak is coming from though, which is good news! Also, great that it looks like it's going to be a fairly cheap fix - good work! 👍 Cheers, Phil