I’ve got a Hunter Herald 8 multi fuel stove with back boiler but it doesn’t riddle like you demonstrated. The grate barely moves so I have to manually remove the ash with a poker.
That’s probably due to some warping to the grate bars. If you clear the grate you will either find something blocking it from riddling, or you’ll see that the bars themselves have begun warping. You can replace them by going on the Hunter Spares website, if it is the bars that are the problem.
The Inspires are surprisingly good with wood, but this is primarily due to its “petal grate” that completely closes off. I think for 90% wood usage the inspire is a superb option.
I have a multi-burner, it doesn't like logs, they don't burn well unless I open the vents wide. Coal is the preferred option but difficult to get where I live, the new bricketts (some) and occasionally charcoal are okay.
I’ve used my dovre 250 multi just for wood for years ( it eats it ) I’m about to convert it to wood only via fire bricks. That way I can put it back to the grate. ( just in case) great vids many thanks …
Thanks for the comment, they’re certainly well thought out. I’ve not yet had a chance to properly put them through some testing, but when I get to them, I’ll be keen to see how they compare.
Just the comment I was looking for. I’m trying to decide between Woodwarm & the Contura. How does the articulating grate work compared to the ones in this vid ?
Great video, thanks! New to this and made mistake of getting a Herald 8 (multi) for wood only. They have a video on converting another hunter to wood only. Would it work for mine please?
Thanks for this information - very helpful. Can I ask if you class the Clock Blithfield Compact 5 as a true wood burning stove, as I think it has a grate?
That is correct , but with the Blithfield 5 or compact , if you let the ash build up over the grate it’s not far off like the Sudbury . Let the ash build up and let the ash pan build up , as , as the Tortoise says a clean fire is a hungry fire 😀 from a Blithfield 5 owner .
I've got a multifuel parkray consort 15 with wrap around boiler. I ripped the grate out within a few months and cut a heat brick for the base makes a world of difference. I get free timber so no need for it. The stove was already installed when I purchased the house. The sides of the the stove don't have heat bricks i even contacted parkray to double check.
This is an old video so not sure if you'll see this! Do you think that wood burning conversion kits are worth it for a multi fuel stove, or better to just replace with a dedicated wood unit? My stove is a Gallery 8 if that's helpful! I love your channel mate, so useful!
If this wood kit involves removing the grate, then it sounds like a great idea. If it is just a plate to cover over the grate, then you could achieve the same by allowing the stove to fill up with ash. The issue is you would have still lost a lot of space and a replacement stove may have some utility. Of course the flip side is it costs a lot to swap a stove, so you’d need to be planning some serious use and a serious replacement for that work to have ever been worth it.
@@TheTortoise thank you so much for the reply! I'll check with the supplier, as what you've mentioned with the grate makes complete sense. Lack of space is one of my main criticisms of this stove, so addressing that would be appreciated. Thanks again 👍
I have a chelsea solo multifuel stove, its a lovely little thing but wood fuel doesnt last as long as I had hoped. Was considering getting a 10mm thick steel plate lasercut to lay ontop of the grate for use when I burn wood only, then when I'm back onto using coals I can just whip it out. What are your thoughts?
Mmm not sure that's likely to bring the gains you hope for tbh. Sounds like the ash would be a bit of an issue? When we fitted our conversion kit I mentioned it had the advantage of the extra room from getting rid of the grate and showing allowing an inch or two of ash to form before cleaning.
I’ve known lots of people simply remove the grate and burn on the base of the stove. It sounds a little dodgy, but that is essentially what a Villager C Wood is (the only difference is the C Wood didn’t have the bottom ash pan door), and that can burn overnight relatively easily.
@@topgolf7215 hi, I went ahead and had a 4mm steel plate cut to fit over the grate. I've noticed that I don't get as much ash waste as I once did as it has a tendency to burn off rather than fall through the grate into the collection pan. Once you have a decent inch or more ash bed you do notice that the burn times are slightly longer, plus once the fire is on its way out on an evening the ash and embers are still giving off a decent amount of heat even when the flame has died. It's not a night and day difference but it was definitely worth doing. Then when I go back onto coals I just remove the plate... Easy. 👍
@@magoomagoon thanks ,,,I’ve just purchased the clock 5 and I’m going to have a plate cut to suit. Seems to me the best idea to get the best off both worlds depending on your source of fuel. I’m no expert so could be wrong but . So I’m open to other people’s thoughts on a modification like this even on a new log burner .
just got a second hand stockton 5 midline, i am going to be removing the multifuel kit and putting the two extra firebricks in to convert to wood burning mode.
@@TheTortoise I have to do a full refurb on the stove (all the seals) and need to get a hearth slate down. But yes he’s going to inspect the chimney then fit a flue liner and connect to the stove and commission it, so hopefully it works out as a cheap installation (paid £50 for the stove and about £50 in parts) that’s all signed off! Thanks for the reply
@@TheTortoise a good buy right! I hope it runs well and efficiently as I’ve read people have issues with them being a bit lively. All new seals should help (the secondary air/clean burn rope seal and air wash rope were completely detached).. my chimney isn’t too tall either (upstairs lounge in an upside down house so probably around 5-6m from the flue collar to the cowl so I’m hoping there isn’t a crazy draw 😆 started prepping next winters wood already. Love it.
I’ve got an Arada ecoburn 5 multifuel but there’s no wood only converter kit available. Can I place a piece of thick metal over the grate to block the air from below? As you say it’s burning wood fast. Thank you
@@joechewter1322 if you cover the grate with a bed of ash then there shouldn’t be an issue. If you’re always cleaning down to the grate then it could over heat. But you’re right to poi this out, because this is a potential problem. The other solution is simply remove the grate and fill the bad with ash, but all of these ideas are obviously a bit “Heath Robinson”, you’re always better off with a wood burner if you burn wood.
I would have a wood burner, because they’re cheaper to run, and something like an old hunter herald is cheap and perfect for just leaving chugging. The flip side is that this can cause tarring of the flue and chimney fires, so you do need to find a balance. The coal route is much more tricky now as normal house coal is being removed from supply which just leaves smokeless fuel. This is both expensive and extremely corrosive to flues so it will certainly shorten the life f the flue dramatically (particularly when slow burnt). On the flip side, smokeless fuel is fantastic at chugging slowly for many many hours and is much less dangerous in regard to causing chimney fires etc. Think of it like a car. It’s fine to drive it slow in a high gear, but if you do it a lot you will clog up the exhaust. The car will need a good burn once a week to run clean. That’s why I’d go for the wood burner. It might not burn quite as long, but I can burn dry fuel and give it a really good boat once a week for 2-3 hours, I can sweep it regularly. And this way the whole set up can last decades (I’ve known smokeless fuel used like this destroy a chimney I no a matter of months). I hope this is helpful, obviously there are dangers involved with doing this, so if you are struggling do come back to me or your installer.
What would your view be for a stove for heating an old 2 story farmhouse, I've about 10 to 12 rads I want to heat. Wood burner be constantly feeding it? Or would multi fuel be better or the halfway one you mentioned. Which would be the most efficient and less feeding the fire? Thanks for the video. Cheers.
This is a tricky one because these types of appliances are no longer made, and given the power you are after they will possibly never be made again. In this situation unfortunately beggars can’t be choosers, so I’d probably buy whatever was available as they won’t be available for long. For me if it’s available, I would definitely go wood burner, the world is moving away from coal and filling a stove of this size with coal would cost a fortune. Wood can easily burn for 10-15 hours on a big wood burner, and the cost of running it particularly with a small amount of effort to buy and dry cheap wood, would be miles cheaper. But as I say, you will need to get a stove very quick, these are not made any more. On the flip side, if this is a new venture into solid fuel for your central heating, my advice is abandon this idea. There is no point in spending lots of money investing into old - dead technology, but if you already have the set up for solid fuel then buy it quick!!!
@@TheTortoise many thanks for the reply! We have no issues yet with stoves in Ireland are u in the UK? Probably whole different story then. But ya that's the way the world is going, away from solid fuels. Ya I have the plumbing and everything to support a stove. Oil is going crazy expensive and I have my own wood on farm and chainsaw. Happy days! Thanks again I'll look into Woodburn stoves. 👍🏻
@@TheTortoise is it just for cities and towns this ban is on? That's unfair on the county people that are used to a fire. There is a turf ban coming in here soon I think September. Surely they can't stop properly seasoned wood stoves? Ist wood carbon neutral to burn?
@@6900pilot they’re never going to ban stoves. What they have done though, is introduce efficiency requirements that make large boiler stoves impossible to comply with, which is why production has stopped.
So, just to be clear, if I allow the ash pan in my Clock Blithfield 5 to fill up completely, the stove will burn wood more efficiently - and more slowly?
I have the same stove . If burning wood , just let the grate build up with ash and keep a layer of ash on it . When there is too much ash , use a shovel to push some ash down into the ash pan , job sorted. It runs very well on smokeless fuel and an easy stove to use to burn overnight .
@@javidjames3319 Thanks, I do as you say, but this doesn't answer my question. The video suggests (in my interpretation) that keeping the ash pan completely full will mimic a specialist woodburner by burning the wood more slowly as though there were a solid base below the fire. I was asking for confirmation (or otherwise) of this interpretation.
Hi Phil , to answer Your question correctly I don’t think it would make it like a proper wood burner . A multi fuel stove is a compromise , I am no expert , but someone on here suggested fitting a steel plate above the grate …….. that would be the best way to go .
I'm looking for a new stove to replace my 25-year old one I burn wood and coal mostly coal at night My Stove has a back boiler connected to it 6 radiators any ideas what I need
The issue you have is that boiler stoves have basically all been discontinued. My advice is phone around quick before everyone has run out of them. I’d be looking at things like hunter herald, dunsley stoves, Eco boiler, aquaburn, Charnwood. But you need to call quickly as all these stoves will be discontinued, and it is likely that future models will have a number of disadvantages posed with n them by regulations.
There are loads of factors that go into choosing a stove, most importantly being: What output are you after? And how will it be used, all day and night or just occasionally? If you let me know the answer to these I can suggest some ideas, but generally if you plan on using coal as your main fuel then I would suggest: Look for a stove with riddling bars rather than, a twisting centre grate. Look for a stove with at least 2 vent controls, so you have full control of where the air is flowing from. Look for a good sized ashpan. And ideally stick with British makes, we’ve always been very highly regarded for a coal burning stoves (our whole economy was built on coal, so we’ve got lots of experience).
I have a multi fuel stove and soon after purchase I converted it to wood burning only with a kit sold by the manufacturer. Not only does it burn wood much better, we heat all winter using it exclusively and with 9% Pini Kay logs I have to empty the ash maybe three or four times in a season. Most of the ash has been compacted at this point and there is very little dust created. If you're yet to choose and intend to burn wood, trust me and the presenter, buy a wood-burning stove.
@@magoomagoon I'm afraid it's not available now, but we have Firefox 5 cleanburn2, and the conversion kit is supplied by the stove mftr Percy and doubty from memory.
Hi I’m after a wood burning stove or multi fuel in a living room about 6x4 meters and already have a combi boiler with 2 radiators in the room… what do you suggest please? I do like the penman bassington
How do you intend to use it? Will it replace the other heating sources and be used seriously, or is it just for the evening? Also, roughly how old is the house?
The Bassington would suit that great. A big part of the decision is look, so there’s no real reason to look beyond that stove (given your use), unless you see something you prefer the look of.
@@TheTortoise Thanks for the info, thought it was. At the moment its a toss up between the Allure 7 or the Woodtec 5xw, wood be great to see a review of them on this channel
@@indy_red5125 yes I’ve not used a woodtec, but I’d like to give it a go. I have been in discussion with Charlton and Jenrick regarding reviews for a few of their stoves, but they were struggling with stock. Thanks for the comment and I’m hoping to get to this next year.
@@TheTortoise Maybe I got it wrong as well? but in your video you say that wood burns fast in a multi fuel stove because the air is coming up from the bottom, but multi fuel stoves have vents that can be closed and opened for burning wood and coal. i.e close bottom vent for burning wood and close top vent when burning coal.
@@macraghnaill3553 air vents are never sealed, every vent will have a leak. It also negatively affects wood burning when it’s not sat in and insulated by a bed of ash. Some stoves have add in multifuel grates, if you test the same stove on wood with and without a grate the fuel economy is always significantly affected. It’s just how wood wants to burn. It’s like saying “well a tractor can drive on the road” it can but it’s rubbish at it, and it’s a pain to everyone else. But like multi-fuel they’re not wrong when they say “you can drive on and off road”.
@@macraghnaill3553 that's right once your fire is up to temp you close your bottom vent and use your top vents only to control the burn. Bottom vents are for coal burning, my bottom vent seals off its a round type on a tread that screws closed. As it close tight against the body and has a fire rope gasket which crushe closed. The top vent I just a slider type so ut never closes fully
Hi Keith, It may be useful to know that efficiency %’s are not necessarily a hugely helpful measurement as they are presenting a very narrow view of what real world efficiency is. DEFRA approved stoves have to achieve certain requirements to be considered smoke free, but what is mad is they achieved this in most cases by blocking the air vent open and burning your fuel at twice the speed. Multi-fuel stoves will burn very thoroughly, but it does not mean they are any good for what we want in the real world which is heat and good fuel economy. I haven’t tested a PureVision yet, but it’s on the list. It’s a modern stove and I’m sure they’ve taken steps to try and improve control and fuel economy, but stoves with grates and ash pans are always at a disadvantage when burning only wood.
It’s one solution, but generally if you buy the right stove you won’t want for the other fuel, because you’ll have everything running at peak. A good wood burner can run wood for just as long as coal, if used well.
Wood is the only fuel you can get for free!!! I buy expensive wood in nets for testing, but otherwise there's no way. You can get wood nearly everywhere for nothing, particularly nowadays with ash dieback.
This is the best reply 😂. Not that I’m enjoying the mistake! You can always let the ash build up a bit, and get it working more like a wood stove, it’s not all bad!
Very informative thank you
Good video.
Answered all my questions there👍👍
Excellent, thanks a lot!
I’ve got a Hunter Herald 8 multi fuel stove with back boiler but it doesn’t riddle like you demonstrated. The grate barely moves so I have to manually remove the ash with a poker.
That’s probably due to some warping to the grate bars. If you clear the grate you will either find something blocking it from riddling, or you’ll see that the bars themselves have begun warping. You can replace them by going on the Hunter Spares website, if it is the bars that are the problem.
this is really informative thank you. Would you still recommend the Hetas Inspire 40/45 for wood only (or say wood 90% of the time)?
The Inspires are surprisingly good with wood, but this is primarily due to its “petal grate” that completely closes off. I think for 90% wood usage the inspire is a superb option.
Good sound advice
Not one of the shops on the Internet explains this.
I have a multi-burner, it doesn't like logs, they don't burn well unless I open the vents wide. Coal is the preferred option but difficult to get where I live, the new bricketts (some) and occasionally charcoal are okay.
Use the excel from burnley
Where u live just bought oakdale
No oakde multi fuel
Better than single fuel end of storry
@@indiana146 what are you talking about, I never mentioned oak and I don't live in the US. Here olive, various fruit trees or pine
I’ve used my dovre 250 multi just for wood for years ( it eats it ) I’m about to convert it to wood only via fire bricks. That way I can put it back to the grate. ( just in case) great vids many thanks …
charnwood and woodwarms articulating grate bars deserve a mention as they come very close to a multi which cam burn either fuel efficiently
Thanks for the comment, they’re certainly well thought out. I’ve not yet had a chance to properly put them through some testing, but when I get to them, I’ll be keen to see how they compare.
I have oakdale multi
Just the comment I was looking for. I’m trying to decide between Woodwarm & the Contura.
How does the articulating grate work compared to the ones in this vid ?
Great video, thanks! New to this and made mistake of getting a Herald 8 (multi) for wood only. They have a video on converting another hunter to wood only. Would it work for mine please?
Yes, the Herald 8 can definitely be converted. Just call your local dealer and they’ll get you a price, or go on the hunter spares website.
Great man . Very educational
What is the model that you’re sat in front of the you say is the business for Wood?
I’m not sure, but in this video I happened to be visiting Hunter Stoves so it will likely be an Allure or an Aspect.
Thanks for this information - very helpful. Can I ask if you class the Clock Blithfield Compact 5 as a true wood burning stove, as I think it has a grate?
No it’s not, you’d need the Sudbury for that.
That is correct , but with the Blithfield 5 or compact , if you let the ash build up over the grate it’s not far off like the Sudbury .
Let the ash build up and let the ash pan build up , as , as the Tortoise says a clean fire is a hungry fire 😀 from a Blithfield 5 owner .
I've got a multifuel parkray consort 15 with wrap around boiler. I ripped the grate out within a few months and cut a heat brick for the base makes a world of difference. I get free timber so no need for it.
The stove was already installed when I purchased the house.
The sides of the the stove don't have heat bricks i even contacted parkray to double check.
Yea you don’t tend to have bricks in boiler stoves, but removing the grate is a must if you’re burning just wood!
This is an old video so not sure if you'll see this! Do you think that wood burning conversion kits are worth it for a multi fuel stove, or better to just replace with a dedicated wood unit? My stove is a Gallery 8 if that's helpful! I love your channel mate, so useful!
If this wood kit involves removing the grate, then it sounds like a great idea. If it is just a plate to cover over the grate, then you could achieve the same by allowing the stove to fill up with ash. The issue is you would have still lost a lot of space and a replacement stove may have some utility.
Of course the flip side is it costs a lot to swap a stove, so you’d need to be planning some serious use and a serious replacement for that work to have ever been worth it.
@@TheTortoise thank you so much for the reply! I'll check with the supplier, as what you've mentioned with the grate makes complete sense. Lack of space is one of my main criticisms of this stove, so addressing that would be appreciated. Thanks again 👍
I have a chelsea solo multifuel stove, its a lovely little thing but wood fuel doesnt last as long as I had hoped.
Was considering getting a 10mm thick steel plate lasercut to lay ontop of the grate for use when I burn wood only, then when I'm back onto using coals I can just whip it out.
What are your thoughts?
Mmm not sure that's likely to bring the gains you hope for tbh. Sounds like the ash would be a bit of an issue? When we fitted our conversion kit I mentioned it had the advantage of the extra room from getting rid of the grate and showing allowing an inch or two of ash to form before cleaning.
I’ve known lots of people simply remove the grate and burn on the base of the stove. It sounds a little dodgy, but that is essentially what a Villager C Wood is (the only difference is the C Wood didn’t have the bottom ash pan door), and that can burn overnight relatively easily.
Hi just wandering what your thoughts are now on this idea . I just purchased a clock multi fuel on was thinking of doing the same thing.
@@topgolf7215 hi, I went ahead and had a 4mm steel plate cut to fit over the grate. I've noticed that I don't get as much ash waste as I once did as it has a tendency to burn off rather than fall through the grate into the collection pan. Once you have a decent inch or more ash bed you do notice that the burn times are slightly longer, plus once the fire is on its way out on an evening the ash and embers are still giving off a decent amount of heat even when the flame has died.
It's not a night and day difference but it was definitely worth doing. Then when I go back onto coals I just remove the plate... Easy. 👍
@@magoomagoon thanks ,,,I’ve just purchased the clock 5 and I’m going to have a plate cut to suit. Seems to me the best idea to get the best off both worlds depending on your source of fuel. I’m no expert so could be wrong but . So I’m open to other people’s thoughts on a modification like this even on a new log burner .
just got a second hand stockton 5 midline, i am going to be removing the multifuel kit and putting the two extra firebricks in to convert to wood burning mode.
Awesome, have you managed to find a fitter?
@@TheTortoise I have to do a full refurb on the stove (all the seals) and need to get a hearth slate down. But yes he’s going to inspect the chimney then fit a flue liner and connect to the stove and commission it, so hopefully it works out as a cheap installation (paid £50 for the stove and about £50 in parts) that’s all signed off! Thanks for the reply
@@Himalaya7s that’s mad, £50??? 🤯
Once you’ve reconditioned it, you’d probably get £500-£1000 on eBay. Good luck with the install, sounds good.
@@TheTortoise a good buy right! I hope it runs well and efficiently as I’ve read people have issues with them being a bit lively. All new seals should help (the secondary air/clean burn rope seal and air wash rope were completely detached).. my chimney isn’t too tall either (upstairs lounge in an upside down house so probably around 5-6m from the flue collar to the cowl so I’m hoping there isn’t a crazy draw 😆 started prepping next winters wood already. Love it.
@@Himalaya7s it should be fine, but you can improve control if there is a problem. Good luck 🤞
I’ve got an Arada ecoburn 5 multifuel but there’s no wood only converter kit available. Can I place a piece of thick metal over the grate to block the air from below? As you say it’s burning wood fast. Thank you
Yes lots of people have done that in the past. The other idea is leaving the ash to fill up, as that has the same affect.
@@TheTortoise thank you.
@@AshleyBrayson any time.
@@TheTortoise when I did this on my open fire it burnt the grate out quite quickly. Would it not do the same in a multifuel stove?
@@joechewter1322 if you cover the grate with a bed of ash then there shouldn’t be an issue. If you’re always cleaning down to the grate then it could over heat. But you’re right to poi this out, because this is a potential problem. The other solution is simply remove the grate and fill the bad with ash, but all of these ideas are obviously a bit “Heath Robinson”, you’re always better off with a wood burner if you burn wood.
What’s best would you say I need one for my garage log burner and want it a slow burn as don’t want to spend all day loading it
I would have a wood burner, because they’re cheaper to run, and something like an old hunter herald is cheap and perfect for just leaving chugging. The flip side is that this can cause tarring of the flue and chimney fires, so you do need to find a balance.
The coal route is much more tricky now as normal house coal is being removed from supply which just leaves smokeless fuel. This is both expensive and extremely corrosive to flues so it will certainly shorten the life f the flue dramatically (particularly when slow burnt). On the flip side, smokeless fuel is fantastic at chugging slowly for many many hours and is much less dangerous in regard to causing chimney fires etc.
Think of it like a car. It’s fine to drive it slow in a high gear, but if you do it a lot you will clog up the exhaust. The car will need a good burn once a week to run clean. That’s why I’d go for the wood burner. It might not burn quite as long, but I can burn dry fuel and give it a really good boat once a week for 2-3 hours, I can sweep it regularly. And this way the whole set up can last decades (I’ve known smokeless fuel used like this destroy a chimney I no a matter of months).
I hope this is helpful, obviously there are dangers involved with doing this, so if you are struggling do come back to me or your installer.
@@TheTortoise great advice thanks, I will check out that log burner appreciate that a lot cheers, can’t wait to have a toasty work environment.lol🥵
@@Jpcars636 no problem!
What would your view be for a stove for heating an old 2 story farmhouse, I've about 10 to 12 rads I want to heat. Wood burner be constantly feeding it? Or would multi fuel be better or the halfway one you mentioned. Which would be the most efficient and less feeding the fire? Thanks for the video. Cheers.
This is a tricky one because these types of appliances are no longer made, and given the power you are after they will possibly never be made again. In this situation unfortunately beggars can’t be choosers, so I’d probably buy whatever was available as they won’t be available for long.
For me if it’s available, I would definitely go wood burner, the world is moving away from coal and filling a stove of this size with coal would cost a fortune. Wood can easily burn for 10-15 hours on a big wood burner, and the cost of running it particularly with a small amount of effort to buy and dry cheap wood, would be miles cheaper.
But as I say, you will need to get a stove very quick, these are not made any more.
On the flip side, if this is a new venture into solid fuel for your central heating, my advice is abandon this idea. There is no point in spending lots of money investing into old - dead technology, but if you already have the set up for solid fuel then buy it quick!!!
@@TheTortoise many thanks for the reply! We have no issues yet with stoves in Ireland are u in the UK? Probably whole different story then. But ya that's the way the world is going, away from solid fuels. Ya I have the plumbing and everything to support a stove. Oil is going crazy expensive and I have my own wood on farm and chainsaw. Happy days! Thanks again I'll look into Woodburn stoves. 👍🏻
@@6900pilot wood burner is definitely the answer then.
Yea I’m in England, but these are EU rules so I imagine it won’t be long.
@@TheTortoise is it just for cities and towns this ban is on? That's unfair on the county people that are used to a fire. There is a turf ban coming in here soon I think September. Surely they can't stop properly seasoned wood stoves? Ist wood carbon neutral to burn?
@@6900pilot they’re never going to ban stoves. What they have done though, is introduce efficiency requirements that make large boiler stoves impossible to comply with, which is why production has stopped.
So, just to be clear, if I allow the ash pan in my Clock Blithfield 5 to fill up completely, the stove will burn wood more efficiently - and more slowly?
I have the same stove .
If burning wood , just let the grate build up with ash and keep a layer of ash on it .
When there is too much ash , use a shovel to push some ash down into the ash pan , job sorted.
It runs very well on smokeless fuel and an easy stove to use to burn overnight .
@@javidjames3319 Thanks, I do as you say, but this doesn't answer my question. The video suggests (in my interpretation) that keeping the ash pan completely full will mimic a specialist woodburner by burning the wood more slowly as though there were a solid base below the fire. I was asking for confirmation (or otherwise) of this interpretation.
Hi Phil , to answer Your question correctly I don’t think it would make it like a proper wood burner .
A multi fuel stove is a compromise , I am no expert , but someone on here suggested fitting a steel plate above the grate …….. that would be the best way to go .
I'm looking for a new stove to replace my 25-year old one I burn wood and coal mostly coal at night
My Stove has a back boiler connected to it 6 radiators any ideas what I need
The issue you have is that boiler stoves have basically all been discontinued. My advice is phone around quick before everyone has run out of them.
I’d be looking at things like hunter herald, dunsley stoves, Eco boiler, aquaburn, Charnwood. But you need to call quickly as all these stoves will be discontinued, and it is likely that future models will have a number of disadvantages posed with n them by regulations.
Hi mate which is the best multifuel stove with the best type of grate for burning anthracite and clearing the ash for anthracite?
What is the model name of the multifuel riddle grate stove
There are loads of factors that go into choosing a stove, most importantly being:
What output are you after?
And how will it be used, all day and night or just occasionally?
If you let me know the answer to these I can suggest some ideas, but generally if you plan on using coal as your main fuel then I would suggest:
Look for a stove with riddling bars rather than, a twisting centre grate.
Look for a stove with at least 2 vent controls, so you have full control of where the air is flowing from.
Look for a good sized ashpan.
And ideally stick with British makes, we’ve always been very highly regarded for a coal burning stoves (our whole economy was built on coal, so we’ve got lots of experience).
Is a 13kw wood stove overkill for 3 bed terraced house?
It’s all about the size of the room that it is in, unless this stove will be connected to your central heating?
I have a multi fuel stove and soon after purchase I converted it to wood burning only with a kit sold by the manufacturer. Not only does it burn wood much better, we heat all winter using it exclusively and with 9% Pini Kay logs I have to empty the ash maybe three or four times in a season. Most of the ash has been compacted at this point and there is very little dust created.
If you're yet to choose and intend to burn wood, trust me and the presenter, buy a wood-burning stove.
Hi, can I ask what came with your kit and how it was fit?
@@magoomagoon I'm afraid it's not available now, but we have Firefox 5 cleanburn2, and the conversion kit is supplied by the stove mftr Percy and doubty from memory.
Hi I’m after a wood burning stove or multi fuel in a living room about 6x4 meters and already have a combi boiler with 2 radiators in the room… what do you suggest please? I do like the penman bassington
How do you intend to use it?
Will it replace the other heating sources and be used seriously, or is it just for the evening?
Also, roughly how old is the house?
It won’t replace my main central heating source. I’d use it evenings and weekends/days off . The house is 56 years old. It is a cold house in winter.
The Bassington would suit that great. A big part of the decision is look, so there’s no real reason to look beyond that stove (given your use), unless you see something you prefer the look of.
@@TheTortoise thank you ☺️
I just got oakdale multi last week fuel cost winter peanuts
Hope it’s good. 👍
@@TheTortoise we got bloody heAtwave in uk
@@indiana146 yea, trying to test stoves at the moment is not easy.
@@TheTortoise it's magic
What model of stove is that at the 1:39 mark
That’s an Allure 7
What is the name of the wood burner @ 2:18 in this video?
The Hunter Herald Allure 7, they also do a 4 & a 5.
@@TheTortoise Thanks for the info, thought it was. At the moment its a toss up between the Allure 7 or the Woodtec 5xw, wood be great to see a review of them on this channel
@@indy_red5125 yes I’ve not used a woodtec, but I’d like to give it a go. I have been in discussion with Charlton and Jenrick regarding reviews for a few of their stoves, but they were struggling with stock.
Thanks for the comment and I’m hoping to get to this next year.
Well that not true it depends on appliance, my multi fuel has a flat grate with a spinner agitation section
I have top and bottom air flow control
What do you disagree with, and hopefully I can explain.
@@TheTortoise Maybe I got it wrong as well? but in your video you say that wood burns fast in a multi fuel stove because the air is coming up from the bottom, but multi fuel stoves have vents that can be closed and opened for burning wood and coal. i.e close bottom vent for burning wood and close top vent when burning coal.
@@macraghnaill3553 air vents are never sealed, every vent will have a leak. It also negatively affects wood burning when it’s not sat in and insulated by a bed of ash. Some stoves have add in multifuel grates, if you test the same stove on wood with and without a grate the fuel economy is always significantly affected. It’s just how wood wants to burn. It’s like saying “well a tractor can drive on the road” it can but it’s rubbish at it, and it’s a pain to everyone else. But like multi-fuel they’re not wrong when they say “you can drive on and off road”.
@@macraghnaill3553 that's right once your fire is up to temp you close your bottom vent and use your top vents only to control the burn.
Bottom vents are for coal burning, my bottom vent seals off its a round type on a tread that screws closed. As it close tight against the body and has a fire rope gasket which crushe closed.
The top vent I just a slider type so ut never closes fully
Nope wrong, the Purevision C&J is over 80% efficient when burning wood.
Hi Keith,
It may be useful to know that efficiency %’s are not necessarily a hugely helpful measurement as they are presenting a very narrow view of what real world efficiency is. DEFRA approved stoves have to achieve certain requirements to be considered smoke free, but what is mad is they achieved this in most cases by blocking the air vent open and burning your fuel at twice the speed. Multi-fuel stoves will burn very thoroughly, but it does not mean they are any good for what we want in the real world which is heat and good fuel economy.
I haven’t tested a PureVision yet, but it’s on the list. It’s a modern stove and I’m sure they’ve taken steps to try and improve control and fuel economy, but stoves with grates and ash pans are always at a disadvantage when burning only wood.
Thanks for the reply, I will be interested to see your review. Thanks
I suppose the only true solution is to buy one of each.
It’s one solution, but generally if you buy the right stove you won’t want for the other fuel, because you’ll have everything running at peak. A good wood burner can run wood for just as long as coal, if used well.
Wood is exspensive
Wood is the only fuel you can get for free!!!
I buy expensive wood in nets for testing, but otherwise there's no way. You can get wood nearly everywhere for nothing, particularly nowadays with ash dieback.
Bollox. Too late
This is the best reply 😂. Not that I’m enjoying the mistake!
You can always let the ash build up a bit, and get it working more like a wood stove, it’s not all bad!