2017 Ford Escape has rpm fluctuation while driving steady between 25-40mph on flat or slightly inclined road. This vehicle was fixed & surge is now gone.
While sitting in the parking lot of the Ford dealership the rep came out n said that he thinks it's a transmission problem n with a $75 diagnosis to confirm. Then I got back on YT and found ur video. I told him to skip the dia-o n just do the flush. Then he tells me flush machine is down but would do a drain n fill. Quoted me $328.00 to do the D+F. Thanks for ur detailed video, I was able to hold my head up high n told him to go F himself. Got it done at Kyle's Garage for $50. Thank you for the video. It WORKS!!!!!! Oh n something I don't do very often, I liked n subscribed to ur video. Good luck with ur channel n helping more ppl out there.
Dude, that is so awesome! Love hearing that. One thing you may want to do is have it drained & filled again in an oil change or two down the road. Can be done the same time it's in the air for the oil change. Just have to slide the drain bucket over and pull the plug on trans. Don't even have to measure the fluid. All the 6F35's take 4.5qt Mercon LV. Did that as preventative maintenance on the x's escape.
Well folks, this guy is the real deal. I did exactly like he said and had no problems. So far the surging has stopped on my 2014 Escape Titanium.. Only difference is you done need to disconnect anything under the hood. If you have a long nose plier or your hand can remove the fill cap. Just wiggle your hand through and maybe move some hoses around. I jacked the car up on the drivers side high enough to get under the car and had no issues. Drained the transmission and then slowly let down the car so it would fully drain out. Jacked the car back up wiped the area, screwed back in the plug, and remounted the undercarriage guard. Remember to put the screws back in the same order as some of them are a different size. Thanks so much for this video because you were right, you can do it yourself. I will repeat the process in a few days so its cleaned out well. 7:16
Hello RCW, I hope you still read these and decide to reply. Man did I love watching your video and how you explained a few things. Thank you so much. Great work by you that’s for sure. I have a 2014 Escape Titanium exhibiting the same exact surge issue, but has never shut off and haven’t had noticeable issues with shifting gears. I took the car to my local Ford dealer twice and they couldn’t figure out my issue. They wanted to replace my instrument panel. I’m like you crazy as I knew that was not the problem. I explained the situation to a guy who was working on my power washer this past weekend and he said it’s my transmission. Which prompted me to research on YT. I have a few questions for you if you can help me out as I’m not a gear head, but I have fixed a few things on a car as long as I can follow the directions and the difficulty is below a medium. Give me a computer and I can make it speak in tongue, LOLOL. Would my transmission be a 6F35 transmission for a 2014 Titanium? Are the drain and fill plug in the same location as my 2014 Titanium as what’s in your video? Is there any special torqueing on the drain plug? You mentioned one can do it themselves by just buying a pair of ramps. What would you rate the difficulty from 1 to 5, where 1 a teenager can do it, a 3 would be pray before starting, and 5 extremely hard and drop it off to a reputable repair shop? The fill plug seems really small, what do I use to fill it, is there a specific name of the funnel I should get? How do I know if my converter clutch is bad as you mentioned in one of your comments, is it the bad shifting is what you were talking about in several comments to others? For clarity, Is Mercon LV a must for my car not Dextron III because it's not used anymore on newer cars? Thank in advanced for any help you can provide. Have a great one and keep doing your videos. Many will greatly appreciate you. If this process does fix my issue, I will update my comment as well so everyone is aware you're the real deal. Again, thanks in advanced.
Read swashington2825 remarks in the comment section. He had some really good insight. Yes, your Escape has the 6f35 transmission and is identical to the video. Need a T30 torx to remove the undershield screws, 11mm socket to remove the drain plug and some pliers to remove the vent tube. (I recommend removing the air cleaner housing which is the hardest part of the job IMO) You may be able to leave the air cleaner housing intact, reach your hand down in there and pull straight up on the plastic vent cap if there is clearance. The vent cap just pulls off and presses right back in. Definitely use MerconLV fluid. Capacity is between 4 - 4.5qt. Tighten the drain plug up until it's snug, don't reef on it and crack the case. Buying a set of car ramps would work great and be the safest vs jacking up one side. Any local auto parts cheap funnel with small neck will work like a transmission funnel. This job would rate a level one, as easy as you can get. As for knowing if the converter clutch is your issue without a scanner will be impossible but if your vehicle has over 60,000 miles on it then it is high probability. Good luck! 🙂
Thank you so much. I have one last question. If the dealership stated they found nothing wrong from using their scanner a few weeks ago, do you think I need to have the converter clutch checked? So far the car has been running extremely smooth and shifting gears almost silently. Compared to before I changed the transmission fluid, the car ran a bit rough. Thanks again.
@@swashington2825 Did the rpm fluctuation go away after servicing the fluid? If it hasn’t then I would change it one more time and then drive it a few days
I got a 2013 ford escape SEL 2.0 AWD and i have the same problem. It's at 189k (i got the car at around 150k) and I've brought it to my preferred mechanic about it. They couldn't figure it out and said I might need to have the pan opened up. It's pricey for me. They kept advising against doing a D+F, telling me the fluid in there at this mileage is probably keeping a lot of potential problems/leaks from spawning. If I were to suggest them to operate your procedure, how can I go about bringing it up? They're a shop that services all cars and hire techs from schools only, hence their suggestions. And personally from me, I don't know much about cars, but your videos make a lot of sense to me and might inspire me to pursue a career in the fashion you showed in this video. You've got a new subscriber. (:
I would simply say you want to have the fluid serviced. It is the cheapest thing you can do and may fix your issue. This is also something you may be able to do yourself. Drive it up on some car ramps, pull the plug and let it drain completely. The 6f35 transmission will hold 4.5qt mercon LV. Pull the air filter housing to gain access to the transmission vent tube, remove and fill the fluid. It may take a couple days of driving and maybe a second drain and fill to get it cleared up.
Wow, you've got to remove the air filter housing just to get under hoses in order to replace the transmission fluid, no wonder it wouldn't get a proper oil change, I thought it was stupid for a brake fluid reservoir to be underneath the windshield & needing to use a piece of pipe to extend a funnel just to reach the reservoir on a 2002 vehicle, when everything used to be conveniently located for easy access.
I have a 2019 ford edge 2.0 ecoboost it started hesitating around 20 to 35 mph between those speeds its jerky anything under and over its perfectly fine do you think the transmission fluid should be changed it has 80k miles and im the 2nd owner
I have this exact issue on my 2018 Escape…brought it into dealership with as I was feeling a shudder from time to time. They did tests and diagnosed that the torque converter needed replaced. Showed me a graph that looked identical to what you were seeing. Noted they’d lock out (turn off?) the converter and issue went away. Never had a transmission fluid change…has 110,000km on it. They’re quoting me 3500 Canadian to replace the torque converter. Based on this video, I’m thinking of doing a transmission fluid change to see if it fixes it first? Just don’t want to waste more money…wouldn’t they know to suggest this though? Maybe jumped right to the most expensive fix… thanks for any feedback!
I did have an escape a few weeks back with a TCC that still wouldn't hold even after servicing so I replaced the converter but more times than not, changing the fluid will fix the surge. Draining and filling these transmissions are really easy and if you are handy at all, it's a job you can do yourself and save a bundle of money. Buy a couple car ramps and 9 quarts Mercon LV. Drive up on the ramps, remove the plug and drain the transaxle. Pull the air cleaner housing and transmission vent fitting and fill 4.5qt fluid. Put it back together and drive it normally for about 50 miles. Repeat the procedure one more time and then drive it. It can take some time for the new fluid to "flush" the clutch out inside the converter. Worst case scenario it doesn't work and you are out a couple hundred bucks but there is much better than 50/50 odds that it will fix and you save more than 3 grand. 🙂
Hi there! I have a 2020 ford escape and it is kind of doing the same thing. Rpm needle gets bouncy when goes from 15000 to 2000 RPM and I can feel the car vibrating a bit and it only happens driving slow steady speed like 25-40 when it go past 2000 it acts normal. I was wondering if your procedure can help me. The car has no engine light or anything on and for the most part drives good. If so should I just change the fluid like you did or flush the whole thing? Thank you and great content!!
It sounds like your TCC is slipping but still could be something else like the turbocharger boost regulator. What is the mileage? Draining and filling the transmission fluid cures the problem most of the time. If it has higher mileage, having a shop flush the fluid wouldn't be a bad idea either.
Thank you so much for making this video! I have a 2013 escape 2.0 that I bought used with 164,000 miles and it’s doing the exact same thing. No one could figure it out. Dealer said I need a new torque converter without even looking at it. I’ve always heard that changing the fluid but that many miles could damage the transmission. Would you recommend doing it anyway or maybe using some Lucas? Also, you said you let it run for 20 minutes. Did that mean you drove it for 20 minutes? Thanks again.
You won't hurt the transmission by changing the fluid. I drain and fill the fluid, drive it for 20min and then drain and fill the fluid again. It usually fixes the surge. May have to drive it for a day or two for the converter clutch to come back to life but worth it if it solves the problem.
Thanks for the video. I'm having this exact same problem on my 2017 Ford Escape 2.0T with 83k miles. I am thinking of trading it in and not dealing with bigger issues down the road. Is this transmission fluid change a temporary fix?
@@beeda69 I would flush it. If you can get it done pretty reasonable then you would only be out that cost if it doesn't work. If that doesn't work then trade it unless you really want something new anyway. 🙂
@@raincitywrench117 i had a ford focus previously and the transmission gave out even after flushing the transmission. I kind of am paranoid when it comes to this brand and some of it's models with known issues
My ford sport trac 2007 is doing the same thing. Can you post a video of the test ride after you flushed it.did you change any thing other than the trans fluid and filter?
All I did was drain and fill the fluid twice and it fixed it. Had a f150 last week doing the same but flushing did not fix. Had to replace the torque converter. You could disconnect one of the cooler lines where it's easiest to access like the line behind the grill at the cooler. Start the engine and pump out the fluid into a bucket stopping the engine immediately when the fluid stops pumping, measure what came out and add new trans fluid. Or pull the pan, clean everything up and replace filter/gasket/fluid. That may fix it up.
Hey mate, thanks for the video. I have a 2012 BT50 3.2 which had this exact issue about 10 months ago. I change the oil and filter in the gearbox and it ran perfectly for the next 5 months. The problem returned with an additional problem of dropping gear randomly e.g. driving at 60kph would drop into first and lock up the wheels. I took it to a auto trans specialist who determined the dropping gears issue to be the output shaft speed sensor and we ended up upgrading to a heavy duty valve body, oil cooler, and general oil and filter change at the same time. Now 5 months later again the RPM fluctuation has returned! Do you have any thoughts on what this might be? Thanks in advance. Dan
I assume it has the Ford 6R80 transmission. Those had a recall for the OSS sensor which you got replaced. Your symptoms do sound like the torque converter clutch slipping. You will need a scanner to monitor the TCC slip desired/actual PIDS. If it's slipping like in the video then the fluid will need to serviced again. If that still does not cure the slip then the converter will need replaced. First thing I would do is remove the small dipstick on the passenger side of transmission and see what the fluid condition looks like.
@@raincitywrench117 Thanks for getting back to me. Yes that’s right it is the 6R80 gearbox. I ran forSCAN and got some live data. The clutch slip actual shows the fluctuation that I am feeling however the TCC solenoid amps and TCC solenoid pressure both mirror this fluctuation pattern. Does this mean that the solenoid may be the cause as it is commanding the clutch to do this? Or possibly some other sensor telling the solenoid to act in this way. It will only fluctuate under very light load. If I go full acceleration the clutch locks up very well. I checked the oil and it is still clear and red. Only has about 8000km on the oil. Thanks again, looking forward to hearing your thoughts.
@@outthere2286 That's an interesting issue you have there. Not sure what your problem is. It appears it's being commanded for whatever reason under light load. I assume this vehicle is drive by wire with an electronic throttle body. It would most likely set codes but I would still check both accelerator pedal position sensors along with both throttle position sensors (APP 1 & 2, TPS 1 & 2) to see if there is any voltage fluctuation. You also said the valve body was replaced. Not sure if forscan has this capability but see if you can find what transmission solenoid body identification is stored in the computer. There is a strategy identification tag on the left side of transmission case. A 13-digit solenoid body strategy & 12-digit solenoid body identification on this tag and it should match what's stored in the system but since the main control valve body has been replaced the strategy will need to be updated or maybe it has already been updated? May not be what is causing the surge but definitely a good place to start. Instructions from Ford PTS: **If the solenoid body identification and strategy displayed on the scan tool match the solenoid body identification tag or replacement tag, then the solenoid body identification and strategy are correct for this transmission and a solenoid body strategy data download is not required. If a new main control was installed, record the 12-digit solenoid body identification and 13-digit solenoid body strategy from the replacement solenoid body tag provided with the main control service kit. Place the replacement tag over the existing identification tag. Using the scan tool, select Module Programming and Programmable Parameters under the toolbox icon then select transmission. Follow the instructions displayed on the scan tool. There are fields to enter the 12-digit solenoid body identification and 13-digit solenoid body strategy recorded from the solenoid body. NOTICE: The 13-digit solenoid body strategy number displayed on the scan tool must match the solenoid body strategy number etched on the main control. If the numbers do not match, damage to the transmission or driveability concerns can occur. NOTICE: If the new main control was not supplied with a replacement solenoid strategy identification tag, DO NOT INSTALL the main control as all required programming information is missing. Compare the solenoid body strategy identification etched on the main control to the solenoid strategy identification tag on the transmission case. If the solenoid body strategy identification etched on the main control does not match the solenoid strategy identification tag then a solenoid body strategy data download is required. If the solenoid body strategy etched on the main control does match the solenoid strategy identification tag on the transmission case but does not match the solenoid body identification and strategy displayed on the scan tool, then a solenoid body strategy data download is also required.***
Hello, i have the same 2017 2.0 EB and does that anywhere from 25 to 45mph. 170k miles. If I step on it you hardly or don't feel it. Cruise at highway speed and its all good. 100% is fluid related? I'm planning a long trip should I do this flush ASAP?
It can be very subtle. If you have 170K & never had the transmission serviced then that's amazing. I would definitely see if your dealer can flush fluid out or at minimum have it drained and refilled.
I have a 2017 Fusion doing what I think is the same thing. It seems to jump very slightly. My brother is my mechanic and recommended not doing a flush he says it ruins transmissions. I owe money on this thing and have to take care of it so should I start with spark plug change then look into this after if the problem persists? I really feel like I shouldn’t be driving my car just to avoid damage. I should note it has 65,000 miles on it.
Without question, service the transmission fluid. It won't hurt it and if you don't, it's going to get worse. May have to drain and fill twice and drive a couple hundred miles in between.
My moms 2017 ford escape is having a similar issue. RPM surges but car slows right down and does a jerking motion. She pulled over and wasn’t able to get it to move in reverse or drive it just revs. After leaving it for a bit and trying again it worked normally…any ideas appreciated!
Odd problem indeed. I always start by testing the battery. A bad cell can cause all sorts of problems. Recommend a self test with a scanner to see if there are any codes stored in any of the modules. P0700 codes are transmission related. If it has U codes related to low voltage in multiple modules then most likely needs a battery. If all that looks good then need to check the transmission fluid level and condition. Replaced a 6F35 transmission in a 2018 escape last week that failed and it only had 42k on the odometer. The fluid looked nasty
Most likely has the 6F50 transmission. Count the times the rpm's drop when accelerating from a stop to 60mph. The rpm will drop each time it shifts which will be 5 times to reach 6th gear. If it doesn't reach 6th gear then something is wrong. It may be in limp mode. I would have the computer scanned for codes and fluid level checked before doing anything else.
I know this was a while ago, but about how much rpm’s was it fluctuating? I have a 2016 2.0 and mine is jumping very slightly (like 50-150 rpm jumps) I’m just trying to figure out if it’s the same thing as this video
It can be very subtle and almost unnoticeable like 50 rpm to more severe somewhere between 200-300 rpm. Repaired a 2.0 that had very obvious rpm surge this summer and wasn't able to clear it up. Had to overhaul the transmission, replace torque converter, pump, input shaft and control valve. Have your fluid drain/filled then put a hundred miles or so on it. If it doesn't clear up then service the fluid one more time and drive it again. Most of the time the problem will clear up and the clutch will start holding.
@@raincitywrench117thanks! :) just drained and filled mine and it looks like it reduced the surge but it still does it, you think I should wait a couple hundred miles or so and drain and fill again?
@@frankabignale6687Definitely. Very good chance it will completely clear up after the second service. It takes a while for the fluid to work through the converter clutch
I suppose but since these engine are direct injected and using a high pressure pump. A low fuel pressure issue would probably cause misfires, check engine light on, severe power loss symptoms, etc. This vehicle ran and drove perfectly normal other than the rpm fluctuation due to the tcc clutch slipping.
Definitely. Mercon LV turns black with age. Drain and fill the transmission like in the video. If the fluid is real dark then drive for a few miles and drain/fill again. The filter attaches to the pump and is not serviceable unless the case is split in half.
111,000 miles & it's doing that? I thought 2010 was bad, the 2010's got 14,000 less miles than a 1994 aerostar that's not getting fuel properly & the 2010's doing crap like that, but when a vehicle's got over 3,000 people saying that the average for the entire vehicle going to crap is only 61,000 miles & you compare it to a Ford with a bigger engine & 2 feet more room that averages at the heater going bad at 125,000 miles & the engine wearing out closer to 200,000 miles. Interesting video, I was wondering why a 2010 with 14,000 less miles than a 1994 was making me resort to a bicycle for transportation.
Mercon LV turns black fast. I've seen discolored fluid in under 30,000 miles. I don't like the fluid. Always thought old school dexron III was the best.
Yes it was. Depending on the severity of your fluid condition, you may have to drain and fill, put a few miles on it then drain and fill again to get it all cleared up. Sometimes the clutch is too far gone and will require a new torque converter though.
@@raincitywrench117 if the torque converter was too far gone I wouldn’t be able to drive right? I guess it depends on your definition of too far gone. I plan on doing a couple drain and fills. Getting a slight surge and some shudder but still holding gear and still shifting decent.
@@hunterthompson6659 If the TCC is slipping it will make the rpm’s surge but won’t affect the shifts. So it will still drive and and shift fine with a bad torque converter clutch. Most of the time servicing the fluid will take care of the surge but sometimes the clutch inside of the converter will not clear up and have to be replaced
Sounds like dirty fluid. The transmission doesn't have a dipstick to check fluid. It has a plug on the driver side of trans next to the axle that is removed to check fluid level and the car has to be running to do this. To check the fluid condition I like to remove the drain plug on the bottom of the transmission and drain into a clean plastic cup to check for any metal and how dark it is. I loosen the plug but don't completely remove to take the sample. When a few tablespoons of fluid drain out in the cup then screw and tighten the drain back in. If you pull the plug completely out it will be a mess. If the fluid is really dark and smells nasty then I recommend draining and filling the transmission. They usually hold 4.5qt. You can drain fluid into a pan and measure so that way you know how much to fill back in which is done through the vent on top of the transmission otherwise the fluid fill/check procedure has to be performed. All the fluid will not come out but this may fix your problem or you can schedule a shop to flush the fluid and see if that cures your problem.
@@raincitywrench117 true thanks for info yeah ima take it back to dealer ship they said there mechanic gonna check it tomorrow thanks again for replying
While sitting in the parking lot of the Ford dealership the rep came out n said that he thinks it's a transmission problem n with a $75 diagnosis to confirm. Then I got back on YT and found ur video. I told him to skip the dia-o n just do the flush. Then he tells me flush machine is down but would do a drain n fill. Quoted me $328.00 to do the D+F. Thanks for ur detailed video, I was able to hold my head up high n told him to go F himself. Got it done at Kyle's Garage for $50. Thank you for the video. It WORKS!!!!!! Oh n something I don't do very often, I liked n subscribed to ur video. Good luck with ur channel n helping more ppl out there.
Dude, that is so awesome! Love hearing that. One thing you may want to do is have it drained & filled again in an oil change or two down the road. Can be done the same time it's in the air for the oil change. Just have to slide the drain bucket over and pull the plug on trans. Don't even have to measure the fluid. All the 6F35's take 4.5qt Mercon LV. Did that as preventative maintenance on the x's escape.
@@raincitywrench1173:53 pm
Well folks, this guy is the real deal. I did exactly like he said and had no problems. So far the surging has stopped on my 2014 Escape Titanium.. Only difference is you done need to disconnect anything under the hood. If you have a long nose plier or your hand can remove the fill cap. Just wiggle your hand through and maybe move some hoses around. I jacked the car up on the drivers side high enough to get under the car and had no issues. Drained the transmission and then slowly let down the car so it would fully drain out. Jacked the car back up wiped the area, screwed back in the plug, and remounted the undercarriage guard. Remember to put the screws back in the same order as some of them are a different size. Thanks so much for this video because you were right, you can do it yourself. I will repeat the process in a few days so its cleaned out well. 7:16
Will save you a bundle of money. Some shops will just say you need the transmission replaced. 🙂
One thing I would recommend is to add the part of how to balance the transmission fluid as well. Just add to this video if you can. Thanks.
Hello RCW, I hope you still read these and decide to reply. Man did I love watching your video and how you explained a few things. Thank you so much. Great work by you that’s for sure. I have a 2014 Escape Titanium exhibiting the same exact surge issue, but has never shut off and haven’t had noticeable issues with shifting gears. I took the car to my local Ford dealer twice and they couldn’t figure out my issue. They wanted to replace my instrument panel. I’m like you crazy as I knew that was not the problem. I explained the situation to a guy who was working on my power washer this past weekend and he said it’s my transmission. Which prompted me to research on YT. I have a few questions for you if you can help me out as I’m not a gear head, but I have fixed a few things on a car as long as I can follow the directions and the difficulty is below a medium. Give me a computer and I can make it speak in tongue, LOLOL.
Would my transmission be a 6F35 transmission for a 2014 Titanium? Are the drain and fill plug in the same location as my 2014 Titanium as what’s in your video? Is there any special torqueing on the drain plug? You mentioned one can do it themselves by just buying a pair of ramps. What would you rate the difficulty from 1 to 5, where 1 a teenager can do it, a 3 would be pray before starting, and 5 extremely hard and drop it off to a reputable repair shop? The fill plug seems really small, what do I use to fill it, is there a specific name of the funnel I should get? How do I know if my converter clutch is bad as you mentioned in one of your comments, is it the bad shifting is what you were talking about in several comments to others? For clarity, Is Mercon LV a must for my car not Dextron III because it's not used anymore on newer cars?
Thank in advanced for any help you can provide. Have a great one and keep doing your videos. Many will greatly appreciate you. If this process does fix my issue, I will update my comment as well so everyone is aware you're the real deal. Again, thanks in advanced.
Read swashington2825 remarks in the comment section. He had some really good insight. Yes, your Escape has the 6f35 transmission and is identical to the video. Need a T30 torx to remove the undershield screws, 11mm socket to remove the drain plug and some pliers to remove the vent tube. (I recommend removing the air cleaner housing which is the hardest part of the job IMO) You may be able to leave the air cleaner housing intact, reach your hand down in there and pull straight up on the plastic vent cap if there is clearance. The vent cap just pulls off and presses right back in. Definitely use MerconLV fluid. Capacity is between 4 - 4.5qt. Tighten the drain plug up until it's snug, don't reef on it and crack the case. Buying a set of car ramps would work great and be the safest vs jacking up one side. Any local auto parts cheap funnel with small neck will work like a transmission funnel. This job would rate a level one, as easy as you can get. As for knowing if the converter clutch is your issue without a scanner will be impossible but if your vehicle has over 60,000 miles on it then it is high probability. Good luck! 🙂
Thank you so much. I have one last question. If the dealership stated they found nothing wrong from using their scanner a few weeks ago, do you think I need to have the converter clutch checked? So far the car has been running extremely smooth and shifting gears almost silently. Compared to before I changed the transmission fluid, the car ran a bit rough. Thanks again.
@@swashington2825 Did the rpm fluctuation go away after servicing the fluid? If it hasn’t then I would change it one more time and then drive it a few days
I got a 2013 ford escape SEL 2.0 AWD and i have the same problem. It's at 189k (i got the car at around 150k) and I've brought it to my preferred mechanic about it. They couldn't figure it out and said I might need to have the pan opened up. It's pricey for me. They kept advising against doing a D+F, telling me the fluid in there at this mileage is probably keeping a lot of potential problems/leaks from spawning. If I were to suggest them to operate your procedure, how can I go about bringing it up? They're a shop that services all cars and hire techs from schools only, hence their suggestions.
And personally from me, I don't know much about cars, but your videos make a lot of sense to me and might inspire me to pursue a career in the fashion you showed in this video. You've got a new subscriber. (:
I would simply say you want to have the fluid serviced. It is the cheapest thing you can do and may fix your issue. This is also something you may be able to do yourself. Drive it up on some car ramps, pull the plug and let it drain completely. The 6f35 transmission will hold 4.5qt mercon LV. Pull the air filter housing to gain access to the transmission vent tube, remove and fill the fluid. It may take a couple days of driving and maybe a second drain and fill to get it cleared up.
Wow, you've got to remove the air filter housing just to get under hoses in order to replace the transmission fluid, no wonder it wouldn't get a proper oil change, I thought it was stupid for a brake fluid reservoir to be underneath the windshield & needing to use a piece of pipe to extend a funnel just to reach the reservoir on a 2002 vehicle, when everything used to be conveniently located for easy access.
I have a 2019 ford edge 2.0 ecoboost it started hesitating around 20 to 35 mph between those speeds its jerky anything under and over its perfectly fine do you think the transmission fluid should be changed it has 80k miles and im the 2nd owner
Thank you
I have this exact issue on my 2018 Escape…brought it into dealership with as I was feeling a shudder from time to time. They did tests and diagnosed that the torque converter needed replaced. Showed me a graph that looked identical to what you were seeing. Noted they’d lock out (turn off?) the converter and issue went away. Never had a transmission fluid change…has 110,000km on it. They’re quoting me 3500 Canadian to replace the torque converter. Based on this video, I’m thinking of doing a transmission fluid change to see if it fixes it first? Just don’t want to waste more money…wouldn’t they know to suggest this though? Maybe jumped right to the most expensive fix… thanks for any feedback!
I did have an escape a few weeks back with a TCC that still wouldn't hold even after servicing so I replaced the converter but more times than not, changing the fluid will fix the surge. Draining and filling these transmissions are really easy and if you are handy at all, it's a job you can do yourself and save a bundle of money. Buy a couple car ramps and 9 quarts Mercon LV. Drive up on the ramps, remove the plug and drain the transaxle. Pull the air cleaner housing and transmission vent fitting and fill 4.5qt fluid. Put it back together and drive it normally for about 50 miles. Repeat the procedure one more time and then drive it. It can take some time for the new fluid to "flush" the clutch out inside the converter. Worst case scenario it doesn't work and you are out a couple hundred bucks but there is much better than 50/50 odds that it will fix and you save more than 3 grand. 🙂
Hi there! I have a 2020 ford escape and it is kind of doing the same thing. Rpm needle gets bouncy when goes from 15000 to 2000 RPM and I can feel the car vibrating a bit and it only happens driving slow steady speed like 25-40 when it go past 2000 it acts normal. I was wondering if your procedure can help me. The car has no engine light or anything on and for the most part drives good. If so should I just change the fluid like you did or flush the whole thing? Thank you and great content!!
It sounds like your TCC is slipping but still could be something else like the turbocharger boost regulator. What is the mileage? Draining and filling the transmission fluid cures the problem most of the time. If it has higher mileage, having a shop flush the fluid wouldn't be a bad idea either.
A bad TPS signal can cause the same symptoms. Monitor your Throttle Position Sensor when diagnosing.
Yea, definitely 👍
Thank you so much for making this video! I have a 2013 escape 2.0 that I bought used with 164,000 miles and it’s doing the exact same thing. No one could figure it out. Dealer said I need a new torque converter without even looking at it. I’ve always heard that changing the fluid but that many miles could damage the transmission. Would you recommend doing it anyway or maybe using some Lucas? Also, you said you let it run for 20 minutes. Did that mean you drove it for 20 minutes? Thanks again.
You won't hurt the transmission by changing the fluid. I drain and fill the fluid, drive it for 20min and then drain and fill the fluid again. It usually fixes the surge. May have to drive it for a day or two for the converter clutch to come back to life but worth it if it solves the problem.
i did once and it didn't work think Im going to try it again. i might of had sligh improvement but not fixed yet. 157k
@@adamquimby6416 Give it a couple tries and then drive it for a day. That may clear it up.
Did it work for you?
Thanks for the video. I'm having this exact same problem on my 2017 Ford Escape 2.0T with 83k miles. I am thinking of trading it in and not dealing with bigger issues down the road. Is this transmission fluid change a temporary fix?
Seems to be a permanent fix if the clutch is not too far gone. With 83K I bet if the trans fluid is flushed it solves your problem.
@@raincitywrench117 i have a 100k miles. Should i trade it in or just do a flush ?
@@beeda69 I would flush it. If you can get it done pretty reasonable then you would only be out that cost if it doesn't work. If that doesn't work then trade it unless you really want something new anyway. 🙂
@@raincitywrench117 i had a ford focus previously and the transmission gave out even after flushing the transmission. I kind of am paranoid when it comes to this brand and some of it's models with known issues
I have sonata 2003 and the rpm goes up and down and engine turns off while driving? Any suggestions??
Almost impossible to say without scanning it. Check to see if any codes are stored
My ford sport trac 2007 is doing the same thing. Can you post a video of the test ride after you flushed it.did you change any thing other than the trans fluid and filter?
All I did was drain and fill the fluid twice and it fixed it. Had a f150 last week doing the same but flushing did not fix. Had to replace the torque converter. You could disconnect one of the cooler lines where it's easiest to access like the line behind the grill at the cooler. Start the engine and pump out the fluid into a bucket stopping the engine immediately when the fluid stops pumping, measure what came out and add new trans fluid. Or pull the pan, clean everything up and replace filter/gasket/fluid. That may fix it up.
Hey mate, thanks for the video.
I have a 2012 BT50 3.2 which had this exact issue about 10 months ago. I change the oil and filter in the gearbox and it ran perfectly for the next 5 months.
The problem returned with an additional problem of dropping gear randomly e.g. driving at 60kph would drop into first and lock up the wheels. I took it to a auto trans specialist who determined the dropping gears issue to be the output shaft speed sensor and we ended up upgrading to a heavy duty valve body, oil cooler, and general oil and filter change at the same time. Now 5 months later again the RPM fluctuation has returned!
Do you have any thoughts on what this might be?
Thanks in advance.
Dan
I assume it has the Ford 6R80 transmission. Those had a recall for the OSS sensor which you got replaced. Your symptoms do sound like the torque converter clutch slipping. You will need a scanner to monitor the TCC slip desired/actual PIDS. If it's slipping like in the video then the fluid will need to serviced again. If that still does not cure the slip then the converter will need replaced. First thing I would do is remove the small dipstick on the passenger side of transmission and see what the fluid condition looks like.
@@raincitywrench117 Thanks for getting back to me. Yes that’s right it is the 6R80 gearbox. I ran forSCAN and got some live data. The clutch slip actual shows the fluctuation that I am feeling however the TCC solenoid amps and TCC solenoid pressure both mirror this fluctuation pattern. Does this mean that the solenoid may be the cause as it is commanding the clutch to do this? Or possibly some other sensor telling the solenoid to act in this way. It will only fluctuate under very light load. If I go full acceleration the clutch locks up very well.
I checked the oil and it is still clear and red. Only has about 8000km on the oil.
Thanks again, looking forward to hearing your thoughts.
@@outthere2286 That's an interesting issue you have there. Not sure what your problem is. It appears it's being commanded for whatever reason under light load. I assume this vehicle is drive by wire with an electronic throttle body. It would most likely set codes but I would still check both accelerator pedal position sensors along with both throttle position sensors (APP 1 & 2, TPS 1 & 2) to see if there is any voltage fluctuation. You also said the valve body was replaced. Not sure if forscan has this capability but see if you can find what transmission solenoid body identification is stored in the computer. There is a strategy identification tag on the left side of transmission case. A 13-digit solenoid body strategy & 12-digit solenoid body identification on this tag and it should match what's stored in the system but since the main control valve body has been replaced the strategy will need to be updated or maybe it has already been updated? May not be what is causing the surge but definitely a good place to start.
Instructions from Ford PTS:
**If the solenoid body identification and strategy displayed on the scan tool match the solenoid body identification tag or replacement tag, then the solenoid body identification and strategy are correct for this transmission and a solenoid body strategy data download is not required. If a new main control was installed, record the 12-digit solenoid body identification and 13-digit solenoid body strategy from the replacement solenoid body tag provided with the main control service kit. Place the replacement tag over the existing identification tag. Using the scan tool, select Module Programming and Programmable Parameters under the toolbox icon then select transmission. Follow the instructions displayed on the scan tool.
There are fields to enter the 12-digit solenoid body identification and 13-digit solenoid body strategy recorded from the solenoid body.
NOTICE: The 13-digit solenoid body strategy number displayed on the scan tool must match the solenoid body strategy number etched on the main control. If the numbers do not match, damage to the transmission or driveability concerns can occur. NOTICE: If the new main control was not supplied with a replacement solenoid strategy identification tag, DO NOT INSTALL the main control as all required programming information is missing. Compare the solenoid body strategy identification etched on the main control to the solenoid strategy identification tag on the transmission case. If the solenoid body strategy identification etched on the main control does not match the solenoid strategy identification tag then a solenoid body strategy data download is required. If the solenoid body strategy etched on the main control does match the solenoid strategy identification tag on the transmission case but does not match the solenoid body identification and strategy displayed on the scan tool, then a solenoid body strategy data download is also required.***
Hello, i have the same 2017 2.0 EB and does that anywhere from 25 to 45mph. 170k miles. If I step on it you hardly or don't feel it. Cruise at highway speed and its all good. 100% is fluid related? I'm planning a long trip should I do this flush ASAP?
It can be very subtle. If you have 170K & never had the transmission serviced then that's amazing. I would definitely see if your dealer can flush fluid out or at minimum have it drained and refilled.
@@raincitywrench117 i drained it, refill it with some cheap Walmart fluid and it works so much better now, will do another one with better fluid
What kind of software are you using ?
Ford factory IDS software on Toshiba toughbook.
I have a 2017 Fusion doing what I think is the same thing. It seems to jump very slightly. My brother is my mechanic and recommended not doing a flush he says it ruins transmissions. I owe money on this thing and have to take care of it so should I start with spark plug change then look into this after if the problem persists? I really feel like I shouldn’t be driving my car just to avoid damage. I should note it has 65,000 miles on it.
Without question, service the transmission fluid. It won't hurt it and if you don't, it's going to get worse. May have to drain and fill twice and drive a couple hundred miles in between.
My moms 2017 ford escape is having a similar issue. RPM surges but car slows right down and does a jerking motion. She pulled over and wasn’t able to get it to move in reverse or drive it just revs. After leaving it for a bit and trying again it worked normally…any ideas appreciated!
Odd problem indeed. I always start by testing the battery. A bad cell can cause all sorts of problems. Recommend a self test with a scanner to see if there are any codes stored in any of the modules. P0700 codes are transmission related. If it has U codes related to low voltage in multiple modules then most likely needs a battery. If all that looks good then need to check the transmission fluid level and condition. Replaced a 6F35 transmission in a 2018 escape last week that failed and it only had 42k on the odometer. The fluid looked nasty
Hi! My 2011 explorer rpm goes to 4 thousands while driving on the freeway! Any ideas where to star?
Most likely has the 6F50 transmission. Count the times the rpm's drop when accelerating from a stop to 60mph. The rpm will drop each time it shifts which will be 5 times to reach 6th gear. If it doesn't reach 6th gear then something is wrong. It may be in limp mode. I would have the computer scanned for codes and fluid level checked before doing anything else.
@raincitywrench117 ok, thank you! I will do that!
The fluid in these gets black even at low mileage. You won’t see red transmission fluid come out of these transmissions.
Definitely 👍 Did one today with 42K and the fluid looked horrid!
I know this was a while ago, but about how much rpm’s was it fluctuating? I have a 2016 2.0 and mine is jumping very slightly (like 50-150 rpm jumps) I’m just trying to figure out if it’s the same thing as this video
It can be very subtle and almost unnoticeable like 50 rpm to more severe somewhere between 200-300 rpm. Repaired a 2.0 that had very obvious rpm surge this summer and wasn't able to clear it up. Had to overhaul the transmission, replace torque converter, pump, input shaft and control valve. Have your fluid drain/filled then put a hundred miles or so on it. If it doesn't clear up then service the fluid one more time and drive it again. Most of the time the problem will clear up and the clutch will start holding.
@@raincitywrench117thanks! :) just drained and filled mine and it looks like it reduced the surge but it still does it, you think I should wait a couple hundred miles or so and drain and fill again?
@@frankabignale6687Definitely. Very good chance it will completely clear up after the second service. It takes a while for the fluid to work through the converter clutch
@@raincitywrench117will do, thanks for the advice :)
What about fuel pump issue?
I suppose but since these engine are direct injected and using a high pressure pump. A low fuel pressure issue would probably cause misfires, check engine light on, severe power loss symptoms, etc. This vehicle ran and drove perfectly normal other than the rpm fluctuation due to the tcc clutch slipping.
I’m having the same problem with my car, where you you located?
Snohomish WA
@@raincitywrench117 thanks for the reply I’m unfortunately In Ontario, CAN. Wish you were closer!
My first escape 2018 sel is on 69k miles should I do a trans fluid change and also the filter
Definitely. Mercon LV turns black with age. Drain and fill the transmission like in the video. If the fluid is real dark then drive for a few miles and drain/fill again. The filter attaches to the pump and is not serviceable unless the case is split in half.
111,000 miles & it's doing that? I thought 2010 was bad, the 2010's got 14,000 less miles than a 1994 aerostar that's not getting fuel properly & the 2010's doing crap like that, but when a vehicle's got over 3,000 people saying that the average for the entire vehicle going to crap is only 61,000 miles & you compare it to a Ford with a bigger engine & 2 feet more room that averages at the heater going bad at 125,000 miles & the engine wearing out closer to 200,000 miles. Interesting video, I was wondering why a 2010 with 14,000 less miles than a 1994 was making me resort to a bicycle for transportation.
Mercon LV turns black fast. I've seen discolored fluid in under 30,000 miles. I don't like the fluid. Always thought old school dexron III was the best.
Isn’t that a lot of miles for a 2017?
It is. I think the average is somewhere around 15k per year so it should have around 60-75k. They may have had one LONG commute.
Not in today's world my 2017 has 120,000 bought it.3 years ago with 42,000
I have 15,450 on my 2017 today. I drive approx 2800/year.
Was this a good fix?
Yes it was. Depending on the severity of your fluid condition, you may have to drain and fill, put a few miles on it then drain and fill again to get it all cleared up. Sometimes the clutch is too far gone and will require a new torque converter though.
@@raincitywrench117 if the torque converter was too far gone I wouldn’t be able to drive right? I guess it depends on your definition of too far gone. I plan on doing a couple drain and fills. Getting a slight surge and some shudder but still holding gear and still shifting decent.
@@hunterthompson6659 If the TCC is slipping it will make the rpm’s surge but won’t affect the shifts. So it will still drive and and shift fine with a bad torque converter clutch. Most of the time servicing the fluid will take care of the surge but sometimes the clutch inside of the converter will not clear up and have to be replaced
Did this work?
Yep, fixed it right up.
My Chevy cobalt doing the same thing it’s a 2010 2.0 coupe
Sounds like dirty fluid. The transmission doesn't have a dipstick to check fluid. It has a plug on the driver side of trans next to the axle that is removed to check fluid level and the car has to be running to do this. To check the fluid condition I like to remove the drain plug on the bottom of the transmission and drain into a clean plastic cup to check for any metal and how dark it is. I loosen the plug but don't completely remove to take the sample. When a few tablespoons of fluid drain out in the cup then screw and tighten the drain back in. If you pull the plug completely out it will be a mess. If the fluid is really dark and smells nasty then I recommend draining and filling the transmission. They usually hold 4.5qt. You can drain fluid into a pan and measure so that way you know how much to fill back in which is done through the vent on top of the transmission otherwise the fluid fill/check procedure has to be performed. All the fluid will not come out but this may fix your problem or you can schedule a shop to flush the fluid and see if that cures your problem.
@@raincitywrench117 true thanks for info yeah ima take it back to dealer ship they said there mechanic gonna check it tomorrow thanks again for replying
You should fix my escape 😢
Hey, don't procrastinate. Get out there and drain your fluid. 😆