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Painting Easy Barbarians - How I Paint Things
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- čas přidán 27. 02. 2021
- The borders of Rome are vast and her enemies many. Counted among the 'uncivilized' peoples rejecting Roman influence are the likes of the Celts, Gauls, Langobards, Dacians and others - and painting them is easier than you'd think! READ MORE:
Pick up a box of infantry for SPQR with a free copy of the new rulebook included! Order before the 24th of March: store.warlordg...
Focusing on simple, bright colours that catch the eye, a quick shade and a shield transfer will do a great deal of the work for you when it comes to getting your barbarian horde on the table as quickly as possible! When painting men in mail shirts and helmets, this Barbarian Flesh primer continues to work well to help set a warm, ruddy shade to everything.
Other manufacturers such as Victrix or Gripping Beast sell ranges suitable for the varied tribes set against Rome's encroachment, but be sure and double-check which come with transfers and which will require you to purchase those separately.
Thanks to Producer level Patrons Alan Nuttall, Kyrie Crawford, Trainboy, Connor, and Fred, as well as all the other Patrons that made this video possible, and Exit23 Games for recording equipment that helps keep the channel ticking over! Find out more at the following links:
/ sonicsledgehammer
/ sonicsledge
exit23.games
If you like what I'm doing and you'd like to chip in without signing up for Patreon, why not a Ko-Fi? How I Paint Things will never be behind a pay wall, but anything dropped in the tip jar is greatly appreciated and really helps.
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PAINTS USED:
PRIMER:
Army Painter Barbarian Flesh
BASE:
Corax White
Macragge Blue
Steel Legion Drab
Iron Hands Steel
Zandri Dust
Retributor Armour
LAYER:
Baneblade Brown
Warpstone Glow
Ungor Flesh
Kislev Flesh
DRY:
Eldar Flesh
SHADE:
Agrax Earthshade
SPRAY VARNISHES:
Vallejo Matt Varnish
Permanent pens are a good way to do stripes
Agreed. I use acrylic paint pens which are similar, water-based, and permanent. If you like, you can draw the stripes wet on a wet base coat and get a nice color mix - for instance white on blue makes a light blue stripe.
Thank you , Sonic .
You’ve been boshing out some great videos! Thanks very much Sonic, I’m really enjoying each one.
Glad you like them! I've been experimenting a bit more with the variety for sanity's sake. ;D
Our good friend sanity! I’m sure I last saw her next to Marbles. Where’d they go again?
Some of my favorite painting videos short sweet and perfect balance of quality and speed. Keep up the great work!
Good my dads having me paint scores of these barbarians as Picts and basically a whole Roman legion .
Right there for upcoming SPQR relaunch. Amazing!
I'm looking forward to it! SPQR was exactly the sort of game I'd been hoping for, but fell a little flat in execution. Hopefully the revised edition reinvigorates some of that interest. :D
The back of his trousers look like he had a little oopsy.
But hey, I would wet my pants as well if I had his job...
Great tutorial! I think you did a great job on the stripes and I have to admit I don't think I could paint them. I have used Micro Set and Micro Sol for many years and they are my favorite setting solutions. Micro Sol really works well when the decal needs to cover a detail on the model. Thanks for sharing this.
You can do it! The stripes are definitely a point at which the process slows down, but they're really satisfying once they're done. ;D The folks out there painting full plaid patterns on their shirts and trousers are the heroes I haven't got it in me to emulate!
Another excellent video Sonic, one to remember if I ever get around to ancients.
Great work👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Thank you! Cheers!
Really nice skin ! A very good paintjob here. Thx for this video.
A neat trick to really help skin pop I've found is to brush paint satin varnish on the skin after performing the matte varnish step.
I'd actually thought about varnishing before applying the shade, or using Reikland Fleshshade instead. Interesting to see how others approach it so differently!
As always, fantastic!
This would have been excellent when I was painting my Gauls for SAGA. Word of advice, for those who normally think batches of 6-12 sounds like way too little (like me, who do 15-20). When you want silly pants with stripes (or plaid...), it really is enough to do 10 at a time. Ask me how I know... (I think most of the hair's grown back since the gaul cavalry with plaid everything)
For real! Batch painting large numbers is all well and good when it's simple patterns or materials, but introduce something a little more complex and getting 6-12 done at a time is going to make a huge difference to the time spent as well as the overall finish of the unit.
Once more a great tutorial! Thanks a lot, this will really help with painting my SPQR starter set. Two more quick questions if I may: do you think it would make difference to use AP strong tone instead of Agrax Earthshade? And I've seen some people apply a wash after the decal has been applied, do you think that is a good idea?
Either will work perfectly well, although personal preference would be to thin the Strong Tone with a little of the Quickshade Mixing Medium rather than applying it neat. You'll get a fairly similar finish to the Agrax, although it'll have a slightly smoother finish. As for shading after applying the decal, I'd considered it myself, but I like the shields to stand out a bit brighter than the rest of the miniature - it's a style choice, although it would probably look more realistic to wash after the decal.
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio TY, I think I will give it a try (after I've finished the Romans that is)
Hi Sonic, Excellent painting as usual.Are the Shield Transfers from Warlord Games.I remember buying the Celts a couple of years ago but the Shield Transfers provided were just paper not water slide.I assume the Transfers you used have a plastic finish.
These waterslide transfers are the ones that came in the box with the infantry, so they might have updated the contents with something more than just straight paper ones.
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio Thanks for your reply.Looking on the Warlord Website they look to have been updated.
I am fairly new in the hobby and I have been struggling to find good brushes. I was wondering what you use/recommend.
Army Painter do a decent range priced reasonably well, there's Citadel and Winsor & Newton as well. Honestly, if you ask a dozen hobbyists what brushes they use, you'll probably get a dozen answers. You can't go wrong with picking up a couple of commonly recommended sets, though.
I have 40 of these warlord Celts sitting on my shelf unpainted, and I was wondering what you would recommend for woad warpaint. Also un a unrelated note, I was pretty let down by the complete lack of cloaks in this box of minis, especially since the cover art has dudes with cloaks all over the place, but I guess that is what green stuff is for.
Cloaks on plastic multi-part miniatures can be a challenge from a tooling perspective, too. I remember them coming in one of the Mordheim kits and they never seem to quite sit right. Green stuff might be a lot more work, but looks far better - at least in my estimation!
As for woad, I've seen folks use a dark blue then a lighter over the top to create a tattooed look at this scale. Macragge Blue and then Calgar Blue would be my first thoughts, though even then you might want to go brighter. All a matter of perspective, I guess.
Hello, could you paint a ork from warhammer 40k :)
czcams.com/video/tQm2JJ5IOwg/video.html
Thanks :)
Does the Barbarian Flesh leave the same texture on the model as Wraith Bone spray? I hate that stuff. It clogs up all the detail. I think it was made for contrast paints, but either way, it's awful.