Thank you for the clear instructional video. After cleaning my carburetor, the lawnmower was running very poorly until I realized I had put the jet in the carburetor the wrong way around. This video saved me.
I have this tractor with the 21hp B&S platinum engine. The china made kit's jet has to be used, as the o-ring wasn't thick enough to be used with the old jet. The kit's jet also has to be reamed out with a very small drill bit, to match the size of the old jet, or the engine will only run on full choke. The new float also sat too high. If you keep the old parts and mix and match, and make alterations, the kit can work. But this is not a simple plug and play replacement IMO.
Thank you, Henry. That means a lot to me. My father was a mechanic his entire life, and he always said most “mechanics are nothing more than parts replaces. He said, “what sets a true mechanic apart is the ability to figure out how something works and rebuild it.” Thanks for watching, my friend. I truly value your support. 🦅🇺🇸
I have the exact same Craftsman YTS3000 that I bought new from Sears in 2010. Mine got hydrolocked too and I ended up replacing the carb about 5 years ago. We'll now it's surging so not sure if I'll just get another new carb or rebuild kit. Amazon Carbs are just a little more $$ vs a rebuild kit. Thanks to videos like this I have kept that mower mowing my 2 acre lot for 14 years! I have also had to replace the spindles. Drain/replace the transmission fluid. Repair the deck with welding and repaint to protect from further rusting. New tires. New high back seat. Replace the blade cable. Repair wiring harness from rats eating it up!
6:56 and main jet dropped down the tube. I initially found some other videos where its inserted from the other end of the tube. Those didn't work for me, but this did! Should have taken more note of where mine was when I took it apart! Saw your vid and that specific bit. Now I have an engine that runs. Many thanks!
I worked on a John Deere, with the Briggs engine today. And your video just confirmed what I thought was wrong. I have ordered a repair kit for the carby now. Thanks
@Bradley McGregor It’s a pretty common issue with these carbs. Thank you for taking the time to share your comment! I hope to see you around on future videos. 😊👍
The gas leak test is always useful. I typically have a jig set up on my bench with a small raised gas tank, hose and valve that I attach to the carb while off the engine. In your case, your carb is GRAVITY fed. If there is a fuel pump, gas will not flow to the carb since the engine is off. So many details to remember, so thank you sir. -- North Central Florida -- 10.1.2023
Thank you, I appreciate you taking the time to leave a comment. Here’s a link to the rest of the story on this carb. I generally go about it in a little different way that I show in this video. czcams.com/video/8VxTRqJZi0Q/video.htmlsi=HPEL68_r2Ig5e3Iw
Just wanted to say thank you for making this video! A fellow redditor sent me your link and I realized I put the jet in backwards, causing all of my problems. Thank you for saving me time and money on more parts!
You're one of the very few folks that show doing a "wet" test on the carb. Good on ya for that as that's very important step after messing with the float. Cheers.
I rebuilt one of these watching other videos, but couldn't get it to work. Your clear and detailed presentation showed me what I did wrong and I'm running again 😁
+@jackhager3099 Thats awesome. Thanks for watching! Here’s a link to other videos I’ve posted that you may find useful. czcams.com/play/PL5_ZXmQpcjpac4UV8OW8g-IWVCR8tqy79.html&si=RKfnQL-PAcZFy67a
Good job! I've found that little o-ring that seals the gas inlet to be more of the culprit that floods the crankcase with gas than the needle. You however did a great job for people to follow.
+@nandunandu5097 Thanks for watching! Here’s a link to other videos I’ve posted that you may find useful. czcams.com/play/PL5_ZXmQpcjpac4UV8OW8g-IWVCR8tqy79.html&si=RKfnQL-PAcZFy67a
Excellent video on that Nikki carb. When I purchased my riding mower from my neighbor, he hadn't run it for 3 years and left it full of fuel. The fuel lines were rotten from the tank to the carb. After a little bit of silicone fuel line replacement (that was fun) and a carb clean, it's been running great for 3 seasons now. I for one don't mind this carb, as it's easy to work on. I also added a fuel filter and fuel shut off just for added security just incase an O-ring goes bad.
They aren't that bad of carb, but they are prone to leak once they get a little age on them. The fuel shut-off is a brilliant idea. I will usually shut them off as I'm driving into my garage and leave them off till I need them again. Thanks for the comment, and thanks for watching. 🦅🇺🇸
+@lawsonstallings1955 Thank you and, thanks for watching! Here’s a link to other videos I’ve posted that you may find useful. czcams.com/play/PL5_ZXmQpcjpac4UV8OW8g-IWVCR8tqy79.html&si=RKfnQL-PAcZFy67a
Hello again Mr. BaldEagle! First of all, I would just like to thank you again as everything you taught about the Nikki rebuild was right on point, it only went bad again because I kept taking it back apart. But with the help of GOD, I finally figured out why there was no gas getting over to the piston well. I went back out this morning trying to start the mower again, but still nothing. So I went ahead & disconnected the kill wire like you suggested, but still nothing. Well I was reminded that I had messed with the rockers and even checked the push rods before I did the carb rebuild. Well the voice that I heard today told me to go back and check the rockers and push rods again, and when I did, I discovered that the intake valve wasn't opening because I didn't put the push rod back in like it was supposed to be. Well it was then that I remembered that if the intake valve doesn't open, then no gas will get to the piston well. So, after resetting the push rod, and readjusting the rockers, that baby started purring like a kitten! So again, thank you very much for all of your help! GOD bless you and your family! Have a blessed weekend!
That’s fantastic news! I’m glad it all worked out in the end. Thank you for taking the time to share your experience. I hope to see you around on future videos.
PERFECT VIDEO! This carb is something I have never seen before. You make it all easily done for dummies like me. Great brief editing and no BS excuses and lifestyle interruptions like other vids I've viewed. Thanks so much!!!!
@@baldeagle242I can’t seam to get the it to suck up the seal looks like it not fitting I tried numerous times .. I did put it over plastic fuel inlet like you did but no go
Great job on showing that rebuild on the Nikki. I’ve personally not been a big fan of them because they can be a bit finicky, but clearly that can be remedied with a good set of gaskets. Thank you for the great info and video 💪🇺🇸
Haven't had too much experience with the Nikki's. Mostly tinker with push mowers and Walbro's etc. That's a great video full of precise instructions for my next Nikki rebuild. Thanks Steve looking forward to more in 2022. 🙂🚜🐻 Bear Queensland Oztralia 👍
Thanks, Greg. I'm trying to find the right balance between the information presented, length of the video, and how viewers react to the quicker pace. I feel like I need to go into more detail than I do but it would be a 30-40 minute video if I left in everything i’d like to say. I'm curious to see how this video does. Thanks for watching my friend. 🦅🇺🇸
@@baldeagle242 i am happy to watch both long and shorter videos. Some of the videos i enjoy are over an hour long. Example Mustie1. I don't get bored with long videos, the content keeps my interest. Your content is enjoyable long or short as your explanation keeps me glued to my screen. 🙂🚜🐻
I watched a few of your videos and for what it's worth I am a very skilled person when it comes to this kind of stuff however I had been stumped on my mower and you were awesome with the step by step walkthrough of these issues thank you so much for sharing your knowledge with me it got me up and running A+++
Great video. I couldn’t remember which way that jet goes on the plastic and your video was very helpful. Unfortunately the OEM kit I bought from Amazon was missing the o-ring gasket for that jet. Luckily I was able to use a 3mm/1mm o-ring.
+@NotSure13 Thank you for sharing your comment! We hope to see you around in the future as well. youtube.com/@baldeagle242 Wishing you all the best! 😊👍
I had one time the fuel solenoid backfire was stuck down and then I found that I had gas in my oil and The same thing happened to my neighbor's tractor too so we both added fuel shut off valves and haven't had a problem since.
This is a very common issue with these carbs. Here’s a link to the rest of the story on this mower. czcams.com/video/8VxTRqJZi0Q/video.htmlsi=AF4MjZ2-OqR53Oxl
Great video. When putting my carb back together i placed the main nozzle upside down and couldn't figure out why the air/fuel was so rich the engine was smoking black. With your video i found out the oring on main nozzle goes into plastic not to the metal tube. Thanks milion times.
I agree with that 100%. The main problem with the OEM Briggs parts is they don't come in a complete kit. I could only find the individual components and the o-ring for the jet came with a new jet from Briggs. $15, and I didn't need the jet, just the o-ring. Thanks for watching Roger. I appreciate your support. 🦅🇺🇸
I know this vid has been out for awhile but THANK YOU! I have lot of experience on older mowers and small engines but these new plastic carbs are just a little different. The 21hp I am having trouble with was brought to me by my brother and it was not running right to start with. I rempved the carb and it was nasty. Cleaned and put back on. So many problems. I stumble on your channel in search and you have a new subscriber!😄 my problem is that someone else has been in this carb and left out the "main jet". Also solenoid is BAD😂 but I found that earlier. New to me carb so did not know what to look for. New kit on order and now I have knowledge power and know what to look for.😁 Again, Thank You sooo much!!!👍😁😁😁
@Tim Wagster Thank you for sharing your comment! Your feedback means the world to us. It's incredibly uplifting to hear from viewers who have discovered solutions through our videos and share their own experiences. We genuinely hope to see you around in the future as well. youtube.com/@baldeagle242 Wishing you all the best! 😊👍
Well thanks! I'm really just needing the mower to work but will rebuild this carb if needed also. This one here is a John Deere with Briggs 19hp and the Nikki carb just like the one in your video, one difference is this one has some type of fuel (vent or regulator?) that's connected inline with a vacuum tube, that goes to vent.
+@user-jj1bs2lc4t Thanks for watching! Here’s a link to other videos I’ve posted that you may find useful. czcams.com/play/PL5_ZXmQpcjpac4UV8OW8g-IWVCR8tqy79.html&si=RKfnQL-PAcZFy67a
WOW, I needed that! Neighbor has a older Toro with B and S 17.5 HP engine. He started it up from the winter, white smoke and ran like crap. Could be head gasket I suppose, I pulled the carb (NIKKI) and it was FULL of rust and crap. I cleaned it up, but the little piece you mentioned that goes in, rubber O ring first. That was on the bench, not having a clue where it went. The O ring you mentioned possibly needed to scrape out, that's where I put it. DAHHHHH, it flooded like crazy! After watching your video, I put it in the plastic tube, rubber first. AHHHHH Haaaah! Will put it back in soon to see if it now runs. I sure hope the smoke was from moisture in carb as well. Thank you for taking the time to help us guys out! Damn, I hope this is the fix!!
Fingers crossed for you! Let us know how it works out. I’d also check the oil to make sure it’s not over full. When the carb fails it will let whatever is in the fuel tank run down into the engine.
@@baldeagle242 I did check the oil prior. The level was on the mark. After putting the piece where it should have been, I tried again. Before I tried I pulled the plug and cranked the engine. Fuel, OMG, lots of fuel came out. Once that fuel stopped, I put the plug back in. It started right up but white smoke again. It ran for a minute but seemed to flood itself. I pulled the plug again, cranked over the engine, fuel fuel fuel. Sooo, I am still thinking it is the carb, but why the white smoke? I am going to order a kit. I recall you saying if the O rings are worn fuel can get past them causing flooding. I am certainly no mechanic, I am learning by videos provided by you and others. So very greatfull. I also am considering taking an online small engine course, any suggestions?? Again, thank you sir
@@davidpatterson5728 If you have the tools and basic mechanical knowledge I recommend rebuilding the original factory carb. The original will be jetted and tuned for your engine. After market carbs are a decent second choice but they are tuned to work with a wide range of engines. Generally they run on the rich (to much fuel) side. They work, I’ve used many of them myself but there are lemons now and then.
Thanks, Taylor. I received the notification for your Husqvarna Chainsaw video earlier but haven't had a chance to watch it yet. I'll have to watch it at some point tomorrow.
At 2:30 in this video, removing the plastic jet stop cap, mine didn't come off easy as demonstrated in this video. Trying to follow what I saw in this video by just pulling it off with pliers didn't work. Mine just wouldn't come off but I thought it was supposed to come off easy as shown in this video. Pulling on it broke the needle valve at the very narrow part which is in the middle of the needle valve. After breaking it, I had to first grind a flat spot on the piece left in the carb to drill a hole. I had to be very careful not to widen the hole messing up the threads. I then had to insert a screw extractor and after a while, I was able to screw it out. I would suggest heating a flat blade screwdriver to cut the plastic stop cap so it can be removed without breaking the needle valve destroying the carb or causing you a lot of extra work. Otherwise, very informative video. Thanks.
Great video, when I took mine apart that tiny jet fell out,I didn’t see where it came from,put it in the wrong hole,did not run at all! I’m going back out to put in the proper hole right now…… THANKYOU for the awesome video,great job! 😊
I get a lot of comments on this. I just made this video specifically to show where that jet goes. czcams.com/video/g9SRvDaKgNE/video.htmlsi=lSBaexL-qtD2khYg
Ok,started,ran great for 3 minutes and started spluttering and quit,restarted and running setting in the driveway,let er run till it doesn’t,looks like a new carb in the near future! Thanx again
Thanks, Kyle. They require a little extra TLC but perform well once everything is sealed and functioning correctly. I appreciate your support my friend. 🦅🇺🇸
Great video. This was exactly what I needed. Thanks for the info and how to. I had ordered an aftermarket one, but I'm just gonna rebuild my factory one and hold on to the other. I'd much rather have OEM than Chinese
It's usually better to fix the OEM carb. Depending on engine size, there are different jets, and the Chinese carbs are built with a one size fits all mentality. You can generally get them to work, but they will not be as tuned for your particular engine as the OEM. Thanks for watching, and good luck with it. Let us know how it turns out. 🦅🇺🇸
I have checked all the valves and can't see anything out the ordinary, I opened the motor and checked the timing and only thing I can see is that the timing mark is not quite punched on the centre of the notch , I am thinking it is out a tooth ???
You gained a subscriber! My 21 horse that i swapped into my 96 craftsman LT1000 has this same issue that i've been battlin since i did the swap, with the extra fuel inside the intake, sometimes it overrevs and scares me half to death. Thanks gor the video!
Damn good video, sir. No distracting bs music in the background....detailed and precise instructions from start to finish. Great video quality. Had thought about getting one of those cheap China carbs, but decided it would be better to rebuild the OEM one. Btw.....the B&S carb kit was about $15 cheaper than the John Deere one, same exact kit too. Thanks!
i had a carb like this w a flooding issue due to the choke valve a little loose w no scews to hold it tight in the shaft would wedge in housing on full choke so spring could not open valve. adjusted cable w very small gap [.035] w black lever held against stop on full choke . you can also modify choke stop black lever to prevent wedging of valve on full choke.
That O-ring on the teeny-tiny main jet seems huge compared to mine, and I think therein lies my problem. .. well, one of. I know the jet fell out when I removed the bowl. But it's held in place at least by the plunger on the solenoid. I narrowed my no-start problem down to the solenoid -- it wasn't, or didn't seem to be retracting when I switched on, to allow fuel in. Well, a new one (cheapo Chinese £15) doesn't work other than you can see it vibrating a tiny bit. So, wanting to dispense with using a solenoid, I cut off the top that closes on the main jet. No start. So I remove the solenoid, and the main jet falls right out of the hole in the bowl!! Although the carb looked quite clean I ultrasounded it for 20m at 50° in Oregon cleaner, so I was surprised the O-ring was really not poking out proud enough like your one. Do you have the dimensions of it or a reference (I don't want the whole kit) or know a way of bulking it out again? I know putting them in boiling water shrinks them so would freezing them do the opposite? MANY THANKS!
@@baldeagle242I have around 500 goats on 600 acres, I use deer feeders to feed them once a day I switch batteries every 6 months and I use the old ones at shop Have 3 male LGDs and 4 females Puppy sales are great 👍
+@todtc Thanks for watching! Here’s a link to other videos I’ve posted that you may find useful. czcams.com/play/PL5_ZXmQpcjpac4UV8OW8g-IWVCR8tqy79.html&si=RKfnQL-PAcZFy67a
+@scottjamable Thanks for watching! Here’s a link to other videos I’ve posted that you may find useful. czcams.com/play/PL5_ZXmQpcjpac4UV8OW8g-IWVCR8tqy79.html&si=RKfnQL-PAcZFy67a
+Terry Vogel Glad it was helpful. Thanks for watching! Here’s a link to other videos I’ve posted that you may find useful. czcams.com/play/PL5_ZXmQpcjpac4UV8OW8g-IWVCR8tqy79.html&si=RKfnQL-PAcZFy67a
thank you my man you have no Idea how many people on here do a carb without ever doing one again and then folks are left dumb founded because they dont have a clue as to what they are doing and are just out for the money no 16 on the parts chart the little itty bitty jet no other video had a clue or even had it on their video, so again thank you ... subscribed !!!
Great video, I have the same carb, had it out, clean it, but my want start, dosent give fuel to the spark plug, it`s dry. Been standing 3 years with old fuel in it.
I'm just a small shop .now some of the larger shop drop stuff off there problem child , some times I get a work order On what they did ? some time not ? I don't care how long you worked on mowers Its a never ending learning curve . I'm sure Baldeagle242 could say some of the strange things he ran across / I guess the thing that surprise me the most is ? how the big shop over look the most obvious problems ? reusing head as well as all gaskets (wrong) Its ok to cheat one time / but cheating on cheating Will bit you in the Butt every time ! do it once and do it right !
@@baldeagle242 absolutely. I have a Nikki on a Koehler that needs done but not sure I have the right kit. Your video was very helpfull. I'll be watching for your videos. Thanks again.
Just a foot note...the solenoid is called a fuel shutoff solenoid not a antibackfire solenoid. California's CARB requirement made the manufacturers add a fuel shutoff solenoid to prevent raw fuel to enter and pass thru the engine after the switch kills the coils as it winds down. The carb and engine manufacturers didnt want it to be an issue with one standard for california and another for everyone else so as a marketing ploy they sold it as an antibackfire solenoid for everyone else to satify the California CARB requirement. Every time you order its called a Fuel shutoff solenoid by briggs. The antibackfire element was a bonus for marketing to everyone else.
Thanks for the info. I’ve heard it called everything from a vibrator to a fuel injector over the years. It’s funny how certain names get attached to something and stay with it. Thanks for watching. 😁👍
Any small engine mechanic knows you avoid engine backfire by letting the engine idle down and normalize for 5 to 10 seconds then shut it off you wont have a backfire because your at the lowest engine vacuum draw for fuel thru the idle jet, not the main one which the solenoid stops.
Great video Mr eagle. It is very true I absolutely hate NIKKI carbs , not because they are hard to work on just because I think it's a horrible design. With our wonderful modem gas it just seems like trouble waiting to happen when you're relying on O rings. That's just my 2 cents
You are correct. The ethanol fuel was inevitably stuck with wrecks havoc on the excessive rubber in these carburetors. I guess I've just come to peace with the fact that I know once they are a few years old, they are going to need a rebuild. It's not ideal for the average user but I've sure made a lot of money buying and selling these mowers simply because of this carb. I truly hope this video will help a few people to understand them better and save them a few dollars and frustration. Thanks for watching, Dave. I appreciate your support. 🦅🇺🇸
I install them this way so I can shut the fuel off and let the carb run dry. It runs to long if I put them on the other side. I just pinch the fuel line with something like this if I’m going to change a filter. 👇 amzn.to/47T6SXk
+@maximusdesimus1943 Thanks for watching! Here’s a link to other videos I’ve posted that you may find useful. czcams.com/play/PL5_ZXmQpcjpac4UV8OW8g-IWVCR8tqy79.html&si=RKfnQL-PAcZFy67a
FYI, I have rebuilt one of these Nikki carbs using an aftermarket Chinese crap kit. The o-rings were the most important parts, and they DO NOT match OEM size. They are too thick, and will not allow the main jet to seat properly. Also the o-ring between the white plastic fuel transfer and carb was too thick... I recommend only OEM Briggs parts for a rebuild... I HATE aftermarket parts that aren't the same size and specs as OEM parts.
The oring on the main jet is very important. Don’t reuse it. Only buy kits that have both o-rings and the gasket. Also, push the jet back in until it clicks. Don’t rely on the emulation tube to seat the jet. Don’t spray carb cleaner on the big gasket or it will swell and you won’t be able to use it.
A decent video. One of the better ones on Nikki carbs. Not happy with the advice to pull the idle mixture limiter cap off with a pair of pliers. I tried that and the mixture screw broke in half. Luckily, there was enough sticking out to grab and twist out with needle nose pliers. Got my Dremel out and cut a slot for a flat screwdriver for the time being until I can get a new mixture screw. Those screws are designed to break if you yank on the cap. Better to cut or split them off from the side, not putting any force on the screw itself. I noticed a gap in the video at 2:38, between you pulling on the cap and throwing it in the trash. Maybe the same thing didn't happen to you? I did find out I put the main jet in wrong, had it in the emulsion tube first try. Just seemed like that is where it came from when I first disassembled the carb.
@user-mn8ii1gd8b Thank you for your valuable comment and feedback. I appreciate the time you took to share your thoughts. While I understand that such situations can occur, I have personally not encountered them myself. One feature that I believe would be beneficial is the ability to add text or a post-recorded overlay to videos on CZcams, allowing users to insert warning messages or brief videos to inform others about potential issues. In light of your feedback, I will include a warning in the video description to alert viewers about the possibility of such occurrences. I also recommend being cautious when removing the cap by pulling it straight off without twisting or pushing it side to side. Once again, I am grateful for your input, and I look forward to having you join me in future videos.
Very useful video, thanks. I've got the engine running again (Briggs 13.5 HP OHV) on my ALKO ride on mower but I've noticed some dripping from the breather pipe next to the intake manifold. I've replaced the float needle in case the carb was flooding although it didn't seem to have a rubber seat for the needle and I still have a dripping from the breather pipe. Any suggestions on what to check next?
If you’d like to fix it for good I’d recommend changing it over to a Walbro style carb. Simple Upgrade: Switch from Nikki to Walbro Style Carburetor! czcams.com/video/ZVbOFzW0inM/video.html
Hehe, właśnie rozpadł mi się gaźnik, a silnik chyba zassał śrubki przepustnicy -po przykręceniu przepustnicy silnik nie odpalił...teraz spróbuję z pomocą filmu zregenerować cały gaźnik, świetny film! A na marginesie, co z zagubionymi śrubkami ?😂
@@philliphall5198 śrubki znalazłem w wydechu, wywaliło gniazdo zaworu górnego, wstawiłem nowe i musiałem zapunktować żeby nie wypadało...gaźnik remontowany zgodnie z filmem za co bardzo dziękuję jeszcze raz, świetny i pomocny, pokłony dla Autora jeszcze raz! Silnik śmiga aż miło, wydaje się że mocy nawet dostał😁
It will keep fuel from sucking into the engine and backfiring out the muffler. It’s rare to see an actual backfire out the carb but it’s not uncommon to see a puff of smoke with the air cleaner removed. This is normal and no cause for concern.
Have you had one of these Briggs Inteks that take 20-45 seconds to warm up? I have a 20 hp, 540 cc Intek, rebuilt the carb w/ the Briggs kit and it runs great only weird thing is the motor is slow to warm up. Starts instantly on choke and when I move it off choke it takes 20-45 seconds. Also adjusted the valves to the specs
Hi I have a YT3000 .When I try to go to full throttle,it constantly accelerates and decelerates,it does not stay at full throttle. What could be happening? Thank for your help. I am for Puerto Rico.
I have two videos that may help. The first one should point you in the right direction. czcams.com/video/-uzKSJhJtww/video.html The second video is on a different engine and carb but is something to check on any surging engine czcams.com/video/QtCAehETLBE/video.html
I have a troy built bronco 2017 it has a nikki 5the on plastic in the bowl is the float i got new gaskets and could only use 2 of the gaskets fit but i cant find the right gaskets for the bowl an silanoildany suggestion
Question for you. I purchased a carb rebuild kit. I only replaced those 2 particular Orings & gaskets. So, I'm reusing the same round white plastic piece & float. I cannot get the round piece back on flush to the carb. I took the jet & round gasket back out & still can't get it on there flush. Using all the original parts except for the 2 Orings & gasket. Seems like the long brass thing is where it's teetering on. Does it need pressed on? Suggestions?
No! You do not want to press anything… if it doesn’t go together with very minimal force something is not lined up properly. Your question was one of the reasons I made this video on a mower I’m working on today. This video shows more details than the previous on how everything goes together. 👇 czcams.com/video/g9SRvDaKgNE/video.htmlsi=7G7zKY4Uh81jBIDq
Hi, I couldn't get my old Nikki to work, it would run for 3 to 8 mins. and die and would not start again for about 10 mins., so I got a replacement carb and it runs great until it hits the grass, then it starts spit and sputters like it is going to stall, I have to keep stopping to let the engine rev back up. What could be the problem?
@@kdcarver here’s a playlist with all of the mowers I’ve recorded videos on with a Nikki carb. czcams.com/play/PL5_ZXmQpcjpbPG_TA7E8TDh-9PVRx7_xb.html&si=lXt2aprEq90BdYzY
Got a rebuild kit. Dropped in the main jet with the o ring on it, 1) it didn't hold the jet in like in the video and 2) I couldn't get the whole plastic set up to seat against the carb. If I took the o ring off it dropped into place and felt better. You ever not use the o ring?
Any idea why a brand new carb would cause the engine to surge? I've taken it apart to insure all the jets are open and O rings are in place and working properly. I've also tested the fuel pump, checked for vacuum leaks, and tried adjusting the mixture. Nothing seems to have any affect. It surges at both high and low speeds. My only thought is to scrap the carb and get another new one. The old carb wasn't surging. It began when I installed this new one. Briggs Stratton Intek 17hp with Nikki carb.
More than likely you have an air leak or the new jets are two small. I’d confirm there are no air leaks or cracks in the plastic intake. If that check out good I’d drill the main jet about .001” to .002” larger. If that doesn’t work I’d swap the Nikki over to a Chinese Walbro and be done with it. 👇 czcams.com/video/ZVbOFzW0inM/video.htmlsi=2cEkbX-IaYDlccrQ
@@baldeagle242 Thanks for your reply. That's where I am with it. I think that I'll cut my losses and order another carb. It's just easier than trying to bore the jets when there's no guarantee it would work. I'll hang on to it as a future project when I have more time. Keep up the good work and thanks again. 👍👍👍
The aftermarket carbs are not the best. I’ve found aluminum flashing and seals that were crushed when they were assembled. Most of them are good usable carbs but quality checks are not factored into the price. I buy around 15-20 of them at a time and almost every time I’ll find at least one with an issue.
Enjoyed the video, very well done, well edited !! Very knowledgeable !
Much appreciated! Thanks for watching and taking the time to leave a comment. 😁👍
Thank you for the clear instructional video. After cleaning my carburetor, the lawnmower was running very poorly until I realized I had put the jet in the carburetor the wrong way around. This video saved me.
You are welcome! Thank you for taking the time to leave a comment.
The detail is greatly appreciated. One of the best repair videos I haver ever seen!
Thank you! I hope to see you around on future videos.
Had taken my carb apart and cleaned. Mower had problems. Watching your video showed me what I did wrong. Thanks for your video and explainations.
I have this tractor with the 21hp B&S platinum engine. The china made kit's jet has to be used, as the o-ring wasn't thick enough to be used with the old jet. The kit's jet also has to be reamed out with a very small drill bit, to match the size of the old jet, or the engine will only run on full choke. The new float also sat too high. If you keep the old parts and mix and match, and make alterations, the kit can work. But this is not a simple plug and play replacement IMO.
The close ups are extremely good and I think you did a great job of teaching and showing how to put it together the right way 😊😊😊
Thank you
@Phillip Hall Thank you for taking the time to share your comment! I hope to see you around on future videos. 😊👍
Fantastic video Steve you are a mechanic and not a rip out and replace person
Thank you, Henry. That means a lot to me. My father was a mechanic his entire life, and he always said most “mechanics are nothing more than parts replaces. He said, “what sets a true mechanic apart is the ability to figure out how something works and rebuild it.”
Thanks for watching, my friend. I truly value your support. 🦅🇺🇸
I have the exact same Craftsman YTS3000 that I bought new from Sears in 2010. Mine got hydrolocked too and I ended up replacing the carb about 5 years ago. We'll now it's surging so not sure if I'll just get another new carb or rebuild kit. Amazon Carbs are just a little more $$ vs a rebuild kit.
Thanks to videos like this I have kept that mower mowing my 2 acre lot for 14 years! I have also had to replace the spindles. Drain/replace the transmission fluid. Repair the deck with welding and repaint to protect from further rusting. New tires. New high back seat. Replace the blade cable. Repair wiring harness from rats eating it up!
All of that and you’ve still spent less than most people who buy a new one every 4-6 years. 😁👍
6:56 and main jet dropped down the tube. I initially found some other videos where its inserted from the other end of the tube. Those didn't work for me, but this did! Should have taken more note of where mine was when I took it apart! Saw your vid and that specific bit. Now I have an engine that runs. Many thanks!
That’s awesome. I actually made a dedicated short video on this because I had so many comments about it. Thanks for taking the time to comment. 🦅🇺🇸
I worked on a John Deere, with the Briggs engine today. And your video just confirmed what I thought was wrong. I have ordered a repair kit for the carby now. Thanks
@Bradley McGregor It’s a pretty common issue with these carbs. Thank you for taking the time to share your comment! I hope to see you around on future videos. 😊👍
The gas leak test is always useful.
I typically have a jig set up on my bench
with a small raised gas tank, hose and valve
that I attach to the carb while off the engine.
In your case, your carb is GRAVITY fed.
If there is a fuel pump, gas will not flow
to the carb since the engine is off.
So many details to remember, so thank you sir.
-- North Central Florida
-- 10.1.2023
Thank you, I appreciate you taking the time to leave a comment. Here’s a link to the rest of the story on this carb. I generally go about it in a little different way that I show in this video. czcams.com/video/8VxTRqJZi0Q/video.htmlsi=HPEL68_r2Ig5e3Iw
You are a great instructor, concise and thorough. Thank you for your expertise.
You're welcome. Thanks for watching. 😁👍
Just wanted to say thank you for making this video! A fellow redditor sent me your link and I realized I put the jet in backwards, causing all of my problems. Thank you for saving me time and money on more parts!
That’s awesome, thanks for letting me know. I hope to see you around on future videos. 😁👍
You're one of the very few folks that show doing a "wet" test on the carb. Good on ya for that as that's very important step after messing with the float. Cheers.
Thank you, I have to give my grandpa credit for that. 😁👍
I just hold the carb right side up, & blow into the fuel inlet tube. If it holds, it won’t leak.
I rebuilt one of these watching other videos, but couldn't get it to work. Your clear and detailed presentation showed me what I did wrong and I'm running again 😁
+@jackhager3099 Thats awesome. Thanks for watching! Here’s a link to other videos I’ve posted that you may find useful. czcams.com/play/PL5_ZXmQpcjpac4UV8OW8g-IWVCR8tqy79.html&si=RKfnQL-PAcZFy67a
Good job! I've found that little o-ring that seals the gas inlet to be more of the culprit that floods the crankcase with gas than the needle. You however did a great job for people to follow.
Thanks, Mitch, I appreciate the kind words. Thanks for watching. 🦅🇺🇸
No part #
Outstanding, all good info without the excessive jabber, one of the best I have ever seen, great work.
Thank you. 😁👍
Been looking for some time for details about my carb, you hit them all! Thanks for a great video. 😀
Finaly found a Video that had the exact type of Carborator that I do, god bless you Sir!
+@nandunandu5097 Thanks for watching! Here’s a link to other videos I’ve posted that you may find useful. czcams.com/play/PL5_ZXmQpcjpac4UV8OW8g-IWVCR8tqy79.html&si=RKfnQL-PAcZFy67a
Excellent video on that Nikki carb. When I purchased my riding mower from my neighbor, he hadn't run it for 3 years and left it full of fuel. The fuel lines were rotten from the tank to the carb. After a little bit of silicone fuel line replacement (that was fun) and a carb clean, it's been running great for 3 seasons now. I for one don't mind this carb, as it's easy to work on. I also added a fuel filter and fuel shut off just for added security just incase an O-ring goes bad.
They aren't that bad of carb, but they are prone to leak once they get a little age on them. The fuel shut-off is a brilliant idea. I will usually shut them off as I'm driving into my garage and leave them off till I need them again. Thanks for the comment, and thanks for watching. 🦅🇺🇸
Excellent presentation.
+@lawsonstallings1955 Thank you and, thanks for watching! Here’s a link to other videos I’ve posted that you may find useful. czcams.com/play/PL5_ZXmQpcjpac4UV8OW8g-IWVCR8tqy79.html&si=RKfnQL-PAcZFy67a
Hello again Mr. BaldEagle! First of all, I would just like to thank you again as everything you taught about the Nikki rebuild was right on point, it only went bad again because I kept taking it back apart. But with the help of GOD, I finally figured out why there was no gas getting over to the piston well. I went back out this morning trying to start the mower again, but still nothing. So I went ahead & disconnected the kill wire like you suggested, but still nothing. Well I was reminded that I had messed with the rockers and even checked the push rods before I did the carb rebuild. Well the voice that I heard today told me to go back and check the rockers and push rods again, and when I did, I discovered that the intake valve wasn't opening because I didn't put the push rod back in like it was supposed to be. Well it was then that I remembered that if the intake valve doesn't open, then no gas will get to the piston well. So, after resetting the push rod, and readjusting the rockers, that baby started purring like a kitten! So again, thank you very much for all of your help! GOD bless you and your family! Have a blessed weekend!
That’s fantastic news! I’m glad it all worked out in the end. Thank you for taking the time to share your experience. I hope to see you around on future videos.
PERFECT VIDEO! This carb is something I have never seen before. You make it all easily done for dummies like me. Great brief editing and no BS excuses and lifestyle interruptions like other vids I've viewed. Thanks so much!!!!
Thanks for watching and taking the time to leave a comment. 😁👍
@@baldeagle242I can’t seam to get the it to suck up the seal looks like it not fitting I tried numerous times .. I did put it over plastic fuel inlet like you did but no go
@@scottm6188 Sometimes a very thin coat of oil can help it to slide back in.
Great job on showing that rebuild on the Nikki. I’ve personally not been a big fan of them because they can be a bit finicky, but clearly that can be remedied with a good set of gaskets. Thank you for the great info and video 💪🇺🇸
Thanks for watching Alex. I appreciate your support. 🦅🇺🇸
Haven't had too much experience with the Nikki's. Mostly tinker with push mowers and Walbro's etc. That's a great video full of precise instructions for my next Nikki rebuild. Thanks Steve looking forward to more in 2022. 🙂🚜🐻 Bear Queensland Oztralia 👍
Thanks, Greg. I'm trying to find the right balance between the information presented, length of the video, and how viewers react to the quicker pace. I feel like I need to go into more detail than I do but it would be a 30-40 minute video if I left in everything i’d like to say.
I'm curious to see how this video does. Thanks for watching my friend. 🦅🇺🇸
@@baldeagle242 i am happy to watch both long and shorter videos. Some of the videos i enjoy are over an hour long. Example Mustie1. I don't get bored with long videos, the content keeps my interest. Your content is enjoyable long or short as your explanation keeps me glued to my screen. 🙂🚜🐻
I watched a few of your videos and for what it's worth I am a very skilled person when it comes to this kind of stuff however I had been stumped on my mower and you were awesome with the step by step walkthrough of these issues thank you so much for sharing your knowledge with me it got me up and running A+++
I appreciate the kind words. Thank you very much. 😁👍
Great video. I couldn’t remember which way that jet goes on the plastic and your video was very helpful. Unfortunately the OEM kit I bought from Amazon was missing the o-ring gasket for that jet. Luckily I was able to use a 3mm/1mm o-ring.
+@NotSure13 Thank you for sharing your comment! We hope to see you around in the future as well. youtube.com/@baldeagle242
Wishing you all the best! 😊👍
Dzięki, film pokazuje szczegóły m.in.lokalizacji dysz, w innych filmikach ten istotny szczegół jakoś pomijano. Bardzo pomocny materiał👍🙋🏻
I had one time the fuel solenoid backfire was stuck down and then I found that I had gas in my oil and The same thing happened to my neighbor's tractor too so we both added fuel shut off valves and haven't had a problem since.
This is a very common issue with these carbs. Here’s a link to the rest of the story on this mower.
czcams.com/video/8VxTRqJZi0Q/video.htmlsi=AF4MjZ2-OqR53Oxl
Great video.
When putting my carb back together i placed the main nozzle upside down and couldn't figure out why the air/fuel was so rich the engine was smoking black.
With your video i found out the oring on main nozzle goes into plastic not to the metal tube.
Thanks milion times.
Thanks for watching! I’m happy to hear it worked out for you. 😁👍
Very clear and concise no waffling video never seen this type of carb before but if I do I'll have a great reference to help me out.
thank you .
Thanks for watching Edward.
This was a very good video, very informative and you explained and showed where all the parts go. GREAT JOB!
Thank you. 😁👍
Personally, I'd rather have the OEM rebuild kit than a aftermarket chinese carb. Nice job there Baldeagle! 👍🇺🇸
I agree with that 100%. The main problem with the OEM Briggs parts is they don't come in a complete kit. I could only find the individual components and the o-ring for the jet came with a new jet from Briggs. $15, and I didn't need the jet, just the o-ring.
Thanks for watching Roger. I appreciate your support. 🦅🇺🇸
I know this vid has been out for awhile but THANK YOU! I have lot of experience on older mowers and small engines but these new plastic carbs are just a little different. The 21hp I am having trouble with was brought to me by my brother and it was not running right to start with. I rempved the carb and it was nasty. Cleaned and put back on. So many problems.
I stumble on your channel in search and you have a new subscriber!😄 my problem is that someone else has been in this carb and left out the "main jet". Also solenoid is BAD😂 but I found that earlier. New to me carb so did not know what to look for. New kit on order and now I have knowledge power and know what to look for.😁
Again, Thank You sooo much!!!👍😁😁😁
@Tim Wagster Thank you for sharing your comment! Your feedback means the world to us. It's incredibly uplifting to hear from viewers who have discovered solutions through our videos and share their own experiences. We genuinely hope to see you around in the future as well. youtube.com/@baldeagle242
Wishing you all the best! 😊👍
Well thanks! I'm really just needing the mower to work but will rebuild this carb if needed also. This one here is a John Deere with Briggs 19hp and the Nikki carb just like the one in your video, one difference is this one has some type of fuel (vent or regulator?) that's connected inline with a vacuum tube, that goes to vent.
You are the best teacher. thank you.
That thing purrs 👍
Thanks for stopping by to watch Bill. I appreciate your support. 🦅🇺🇸
Thanks for the info. I was able to fix my mower thanks to you
+@user-jj1bs2lc4t Thanks for watching! Here’s a link to other videos I’ve posted that you may find useful. czcams.com/play/PL5_ZXmQpcjpac4UV8OW8g-IWVCR8tqy79.html&si=RKfnQL-PAcZFy67a
Thank you so much that was very helpful have a flooding issue now
Great job my friend.
Thanks for stopping by, Jerry. I appreciate the support and kind words.
Very good video. You answered questions I had with my carb problems!
Thank you very much!!!
WOW, I needed that! Neighbor has a older Toro with B and S 17.5 HP engine. He started it up from the winter, white smoke and ran like crap. Could be head gasket I suppose, I pulled the carb (NIKKI) and it was FULL of rust and crap. I cleaned it up, but the little piece you mentioned that goes in, rubber O ring first. That was on the bench, not having a clue where it went. The O ring you mentioned possibly needed to scrape out, that's where I put it. DAHHHHH, it flooded like crazy! After watching your video, I put it in the plastic tube, rubber first. AHHHHH Haaaah! Will put it back in soon to see if it now runs. I sure hope the smoke was from moisture in carb as well. Thank you for taking the time to help us guys out! Damn, I hope this is the fix!!
Fingers crossed for you! Let us know how it works out.
I’d also check the oil to make sure it’s not over full. When the carb fails it will let whatever is in the fuel tank run down into the engine.
@@baldeagle242 I did check the oil prior. The level was on the mark. After putting the piece where it should have been, I tried again. Before I tried I pulled the plug and cranked the engine. Fuel, OMG, lots of fuel came out. Once that fuel stopped, I put the plug back in. It started right up but white smoke again. It ran for a minute but seemed to flood itself. I pulled the plug again, cranked over the engine, fuel fuel fuel. Sooo, I am still thinking it is the carb, but why the white smoke? I am going to order a kit. I recall you saying if the O rings are worn fuel can get past them causing flooding. I am certainly no mechanic, I am learning by videos provided by you and others. So very greatfull. I also am considering taking an online small engine course, any suggestions?? Again, thank you sir
@@davidpatterson5728 it sounds like a carburetor issue for sure. A new carb should fix your issue.
@@baldeagle242 WOW, that was quick. New Carb or carb kit? I think I did see NIKKI carbs somewhat reasonably priced
@@davidpatterson5728 If you have the tools and basic mechanical knowledge I recommend rebuilding the original factory carb. The original will be jetted and tuned for your engine. After market carbs are a decent second choice but they are tuned to work with a wide range of engines. Generally they run on the rich (to much fuel) side. They work, I’ve used many of them myself but there are lemons now and then.
Thankyou, very informative video. I have a 14.5 Briggs with awide open problem. Take care. Bob
Thanks for taking the time to leave a comment. 😁👍
Great video Baldeagle242 ,sounds great
Thanks, Taylor. I received the notification for your Husqvarna Chainsaw video earlier but haven't had a chance to watch it yet. I'll have to watch it at some point tomorrow.
At 2:30 in this video, removing the plastic jet stop cap, mine didn't come off easy as demonstrated in this video. Trying to follow what I saw in this video by just pulling it off with pliers didn't work. Mine just wouldn't come off but I thought it was supposed to come off easy as shown in this video. Pulling on it broke the needle valve at the very narrow part which is in the middle of the needle valve. After breaking it, I had to first grind a flat spot on the piece left in the carb to drill a hole. I had to be very careful not to widen the hole messing up the threads. I then had to insert a screw extractor and after a while, I was able to screw it out. I would suggest heating a flat blade screwdriver to cut the plastic stop cap so it can be removed without breaking the needle valve destroying the carb or causing you a lot of extra work.
Otherwise, very informative video. Thanks.
Wow! I hate to hear that. They can be tight but I’ve been lucky none have ever broken. I’m glad you were able to find a work around and get it fixed.
Great video, when I took mine apart that tiny jet fell out,I didn’t see where it came from,put it in the wrong hole,did not run at all! I’m going back out to put in the proper hole right now…… THANKYOU for the awesome video,great job! 😊
I get a lot of comments on this. I just made this video specifically to show where that jet goes. czcams.com/video/g9SRvDaKgNE/video.htmlsi=lSBaexL-qtD2khYg
Ok,started,ran great for 3 minutes and started spluttering and quit,restarted and running setting in the driveway,let er run till it doesn’t,looks like a new carb in the near future! Thanx again
I’ve got a video going live tomorrow morning at 6:00am show how to convert from the Nikki carb to the much better Walbro.
@@baldeagle242 I’ll check it out,THANKYOU
Nice video BaldEagle! These carbs make me money! I much rather put some work into them than go aftermarket. Great tips!
Thanks, Kyle. They require a little extra TLC but perform well once everything is sealed and functioning correctly. I appreciate your support my friend. 🦅🇺🇸
I’m happy they are making us all money 😊
Great video. This was exactly what I needed. Thanks for the info and how to. I had ordered an aftermarket one, but I'm just gonna rebuild my factory one and hold on to the other. I'd much rather have OEM than Chinese
It's usually better to fix the OEM carb. Depending on engine size, there are different jets, and the Chinese carbs are built with a one size fits all mentality. You can generally get them to work, but they will not be as tuned for your particular engine as the OEM. Thanks for watching, and good luck with it. Let us know how it turns out. 🦅🇺🇸
I have checked all the valves and can't see anything out the ordinary, I opened the motor and checked the timing and only thing I can see is that the timing mark is not quite punched on the centre of the notch , I am thinking it is out a tooth ???
You gained a subscriber! My 21 horse that i swapped into my 96 craftsman LT1000 has this same issue that i've been battlin since i did the swap, with the extra fuel inside the intake, sometimes it overrevs and scares me half to death. Thanks gor the video!
@The Lonely Cowboy Thank you for taking the time to share your comment! I hope to see you around on future videos. 😊👍
great job, running sweet
Thanks for stopping by Mr. Rooster. This one turned out to be a great find in the end.
I took mine off, went to Amazon got one for $18 and works perfect....Even came with new hose, filter, cutoff valve and clamps..
Here’s a link to the full video. Simple Fix on a Seized Hydrolocked Mower Engine #baldeagle242
czcams.com/video/8VxTRqJZi0Q/video.html
Damn good video, sir. No distracting bs music in the background....detailed and precise instructions from start to finish. Great video quality. Had thought about getting one of those cheap China carbs, but decided it would be better to rebuild the OEM one. Btw.....the B&S carb kit was about $15 cheaper than the John Deere one, same exact kit too. Thanks!
Thank you. Let me know how it works out. 😁👍
i had a carb like this w a flooding issue due to the choke valve a little loose w no scews to hold it tight in the shaft would wedge in housing on full choke so spring could not open valve. adjusted cable w very small gap [.035] w black lever held against stop on full choke . you can also modify choke stop black lever to prevent wedging of valve on full choke.
Great video, very helpful. Thank you.
That O-ring on the teeny-tiny main jet seems huge compared to mine, and I think therein lies my problem. .. well, one of. I know the jet fell out when I removed the bowl. But it's held in place at least by the plunger on the solenoid. I narrowed my no-start problem down to the solenoid -- it wasn't, or didn't seem to be retracting when I switched on, to allow fuel in. Well, a new one (cheapo Chinese £15) doesn't work other than you can see it vibrating a tiny bit. So, wanting to dispense with using a solenoid, I cut off the top that closes on the main jet. No start. So I remove the solenoid, and the main jet falls right out of the hole in the bowl!! Although the carb looked quite clean I ultrasounded it for 20m at 50° in Oregon cleaner, so I was surprised the O-ring was really not poking out proud enough like your one. Do you have the dimensions of it or a reference (I don't want the whole kit) or know a way of bulking it out again? I know putting them in boiling water shrinks them so would freezing them do the opposite? MANY THANKS!
I use a 12 volt deer feeder battery
Works great and easy to charge with solar panel
That’s a great idea. 😁👍
@@baldeagle242I have around 500 goats on 600 acres, I use deer feeders to feed them once a day
I switch batteries every 6 months and I use the old ones at shop
Have 3 male LGDs and 4 females
Puppy sales are great 👍
That’s awesome. Where are you located? (Generally)
Great video. Extremely informative. Thank you
Thanks for watching. Hopefully, it helps a few people out. 😁👍
Great vid. Thank you.
Thanks, David. I appreciate you watching! 🦅
Excellent video. Thank you.
+@todtc Thanks for watching! Here’s a link to other videos I’ve posted that you may find useful. czcams.com/play/PL5_ZXmQpcjpac4UV8OW8g-IWVCR8tqy79.html&si=RKfnQL-PAcZFy67a
Excellent video!! Thank you !!
+@scottjamable Thanks for watching! Here’s a link to other videos I’ve posted that you may find useful. czcams.com/play/PL5_ZXmQpcjpac4UV8OW8g-IWVCR8tqy79.html&si=RKfnQL-PAcZFy67a
Thank you ,I learn great
Great vid!
I have a flooding/hydro locking issue with my engine as we speak. I’m going to pull the carb and see which gasket kit I need. Thanks
I looked and it does have the separate oring
Great video..easy to follow..nicely done.
+ Peter Acke - Thank you!
Great video best I’ve seen on this carb.
Thank you! I hope to see you around on future videos.
+Terry Vogel Glad it was helpful. Thanks for watching! Here’s a link to other videos I’ve posted that you may find useful. czcams.com/play/PL5_ZXmQpcjpac4UV8OW8g-IWVCR8tqy79.html&si=RKfnQL-PAcZFy67a
Great video. Thank you
thank you my man you have no Idea how many people on here do a carb without ever doing one again and then folks are left dumb founded because they dont have a clue as to what they are doing and are just out for the money no 16 on the parts chart the little itty bitty jet no other video had a clue or even had it on their video, so again thank you ... subscribed !!!
You’re welcome. Thank you for subbing! I hope to see you around on future videos. 😁👍
Well done
+Philippe P. Thank you so much for taking the time to share your comment! I hope to see you around on future videos. 😊👍
Great video, I have the same carb, had it out, clean it, but my want start, dosent give fuel to the spark plug, it`s dry.
Been standing 3 years with old fuel in it.
I'm just a small shop .now some of the larger shop drop stuff off there problem child , some times I get a work order On what they did ? some time not ? I don't care how long you worked on mowers Its a never ending learning curve . I'm sure Baldeagle242 could say some of the strange things he ran across / I guess the thing that surprise me the most is ? how the big shop over look the most obvious problems ? reusing head as well as all gaskets (wrong) Its ok to cheat one time / but cheating on cheating Will bit you in the Butt every time ! do it once and do it right !
You're good, man.
Thank you.
Good video and info. Thank you.
+John Doe Thank you for taking the time to share your comment! I hope to see you around on future videos. 😊👍
@@baldeagle242 absolutely. I have a Nikki on a Koehler that needs done but not sure I have the right kit. Your video was very helpfull. I'll be watching for your videos. Thanks again.
Thank you
Best video on here ever ur an awesome person ty
Thank you! I hope to see you around on future videos.
Just a foot note...the solenoid is called a fuel shutoff solenoid not a antibackfire solenoid. California's CARB requirement made the manufacturers add a fuel shutoff solenoid to prevent raw fuel to enter and pass thru the engine after the switch kills the coils as it winds down. The carb and engine manufacturers didnt want it to be an issue with one standard for california and another for everyone else so as a marketing ploy they sold it as an antibackfire solenoid for everyone else to satify the California CARB requirement. Every time you order its called a Fuel shutoff solenoid by briggs. The antibackfire element was a bonus for marketing to everyone else.
Thanks for the info. I’ve heard it called everything from a vibrator to a fuel injector over the years. It’s funny how certain names get attached to something and stay with it.
Thanks for watching. 😁👍
Any small engine mechanic knows you avoid engine backfire by letting the engine idle down and normalize for 5 to 10 seconds then shut it off you wont have a backfire because your at the lowest engine vacuum draw for fuel thru the idle jet, not the main one which the solenoid stops.
@@timw6281 👍
Great video.... I Love it!!!!!
Thanks, Rick. I appreciate the kind words. 🦅🇺🇸
Great video Mr eagle. It is very true I absolutely hate NIKKI carbs , not because they are hard to work on just because I think it's a horrible design. With our wonderful modem gas it just seems like trouble waiting to happen when you're relying on O rings. That's just my 2 cents
You are correct. The ethanol fuel was inevitably stuck with wrecks havoc on the excessive rubber in these carburetors. I guess I've just come to peace with the fact that I know once they are a few years old, they are going to need a rebuild. It's not ideal for the average user but I've sure made a lot of money buying and selling these mowers simply because of this carb. I truly hope this video will help a few people to understand them better and save them a few dollars and frustration.
Thanks for watching, Dave. I appreciate your support. 🦅🇺🇸
I just realized I wasn't subscribed to your channel. You have a new sub and ill check out some of your videos in the next few days. 😁👍
Nice video Baldeagle, love where you stored the limiter at. 👍👊
Thanks for your support John. 😁👍🦅🇺🇸
Anytime brother. 🙂
That fuel shutoff should be on the tank end of the hose, before the filter, so you can fit a new filter without leaking fuel.
I install them this way so I can shut the fuel off and let the carb run dry. It runs to long if I put them on the other side. I just pinch the fuel line with something like this if I’m going to change a filter. 👇
amzn.to/47T6SXk
Thanks!
+@maximusdesimus1943 Thanks for watching! Here’s a link to other videos I’ve posted that you may find useful. czcams.com/play/PL5_ZXmQpcjpac4UV8OW8g-IWVCR8tqy79.html&si=RKfnQL-PAcZFy67a
FYI, I have rebuilt one of these Nikki carbs using an aftermarket Chinese crap kit. The o-rings were the most important parts, and they DO NOT match OEM size. They are too thick, and will not allow the main jet to seat properly. Also the o-ring between the white plastic fuel transfer and carb was too thick... I recommend only OEM Briggs parts for a rebuild... I HATE aftermarket parts that aren't the same size and specs as OEM parts.
The oring on the main jet is very important. Don’t reuse it. Only buy kits that have both o-rings and the gasket. Also, push the jet back in until it clicks. Don’t rely on the emulation tube to seat the jet. Don’t spray carb cleaner on the big gasket or it will swell and you won’t be able to use it.
Awesome advice. Thanks for taking the time to leave a comment. 😁👍
Good video!
Thanks for watching. 🦅🇺🇸
@@baldeagle242 you are welcome,if you need any accessories,pls feel free to contact me.thanks.
A decent video. One of the better ones on Nikki carbs.
Not happy with the advice to pull the idle mixture limiter cap off with a pair of pliers. I tried that and the mixture screw broke in half. Luckily, there was enough sticking out to grab and twist out with needle nose pliers. Got my Dremel out and cut a slot for a flat screwdriver for the time being until I can get a new mixture screw. Those screws are designed to break if you yank on the cap. Better to cut or split them off from the side, not putting any force on the screw itself. I noticed a gap in the video at 2:38, between you pulling on the cap and throwing it in the trash. Maybe the same thing didn't happen to you?
I did find out I put the main jet in wrong, had it in the emulsion tube first try. Just seemed like that is where it came from when I first disassembled the carb.
@user-mn8ii1gd8b Thank you for your valuable comment and feedback. I appreciate the time you took to share your thoughts. While I understand that such situations can occur, I have personally not encountered them myself. One feature that I believe would be beneficial is the ability to add text or a post-recorded overlay to videos on CZcams, allowing users to insert warning messages or brief videos to inform others about potential issues.
In light of your feedback, I will include a warning in the video description to alert viewers about the possibility of such occurrences. I also recommend being cautious when removing the cap by pulling it straight off without twisting or pushing it side to side. Once again, I am grateful for your input, and I look forward to having you join me in future videos.
I needed to see that the jet goes INSIDE the plastic before it goes on. Oops 😅
That’s a common issue when people pull these carbs apart to clean them. Sometimes the fall out and you’ll never know
It was there. 😁👍
Very useful video, thanks. I've got the engine running again (Briggs 13.5 HP OHV) on my ALKO ride on mower but I've noticed some dripping from the breather pipe next to the intake manifold. I've replaced the float needle in case the carb was flooding although it didn't seem to have a rubber seat for the needle and I still have a dripping from the breather pipe. Any suggestions on what to check next?
If you’d like to fix it for good I’d recommend changing it over to a Walbro style carb.
Simple Upgrade: Switch from Nikki to Walbro Style Carburetor!
czcams.com/video/ZVbOFzW0inM/video.html
Hehe, właśnie rozpadł mi się gaźnik, a silnik chyba zassał śrubki przepustnicy -po przykręceniu przepustnicy silnik nie odpalił...teraz spróbuję z pomocą filmu zregenerować cały gaźnik, świetny film! A na marginesie, co z zagubionymi śrubkami ?😂
Remove head and get carb screws out
I use lock tight #222 on the screws every time to prevent them from coming out
@@philliphall5198 śrubki znalazłem w wydechu, wywaliło gniazdo zaworu górnego, wstawiłem nowe i musiałem zapunktować żeby nie wypadało...gaźnik remontowany zgodnie z filmem za co bardzo dziękuję jeszcze raz, świetny i pomocny, pokłony dla Autora jeszcze raz! Silnik śmiga aż miło, wydaje się że mocy nawet dostał😁
Thx!
You’re welcome 😁👍
You’re carb backfired smoke when shutting off . So the shut off switch in bottom of carb doesn’t prevent that?
It will keep fuel from sucking into the engine and backfiring out the muffler. It’s rare to see an actual backfire out the carb but it’s not uncommon to see a puff of smoke with the air cleaner removed. This is normal and no cause for concern.
Have you had one of these Briggs Inteks that take 20-45 seconds to warm up? I have a 20 hp, 540 cc Intek, rebuilt the carb w/ the Briggs kit and it runs great only weird thing is the motor is slow to warm up. Starts instantly on choke and when I move it off choke it takes 20-45 seconds. Also adjusted the valves to the specs
I can’t say I’ve experienced that situation before. 🤷🏻♂️
Surprised that tiny tiny tiny brass jet didn't fall out
They don't run very well when they fall out and people don't realize it. 😉👍
Hi
I have a YT3000 .When I try to go to full throttle,it constantly accelerates and decelerates,it does not stay at full throttle. What could be happening? Thank for your help. I am for Puerto Rico.
I have two videos that may help.
The first one should point you in the right direction.
czcams.com/video/-uzKSJhJtww/video.html
The second video is on a different engine and carb but is something to check on any surging engine
czcams.com/video/QtCAehETLBE/video.html
thanks Good Stuff
I have a troy built bronco 2017 it has a nikki 5the on plastic in the bowl is the float i got new gaskets and could only use 2 of the gaskets fit but i cant find the right gaskets for the bowl an silanoildany suggestion
I have links in the video description. There are two different styles.
Yts 3000. That's the Millennium Falcon
Question for you. I purchased a carb rebuild kit. I only replaced those 2 particular Orings & gaskets. So, I'm reusing the same round white plastic piece & float. I cannot get the round piece back on flush to the carb. I took the jet & round gasket back out & still can't get it on there flush. Using all the original parts except for the 2 Orings & gasket. Seems like the long brass thing is where it's teetering on. Does it need pressed on? Suggestions?
No! You do not want to press anything… if it doesn’t go together with very minimal force something is not lined up properly. Your question was one of the reasons I made this video on a mower I’m working on today. This video shows more details than the previous on how everything goes together. 👇
czcams.com/video/g9SRvDaKgNE/video.htmlsi=7G7zKY4Uh81jBIDq
Hi, I couldn't get my old Nikki to work, it would run for 3 to 8 mins. and die and would not start again for about 10 mins., so I got a replacement carb and it runs great until it hits the grass, then it starts spit and sputters like it is going to stall, I have to keep stopping to let the engine rev back up. What could be the problem?
Could need the valves adjusted. I’d also check to make sure the exhaust isn’t stopped up.
fyi.. kohler now has a complete rebuild kit for the Nikki carbs. I beleive they are like 20$ for the entire kit.
Thank you for the video. Do you have a video or a link that describes what each of the ports on the carburetor are and how they are interconnected?
I have a few videos about this carb on CZcams but nothing like what you’re looking for.
@@baldeagle242 Ok. Thanks. Maybe I can sus it out from those videos. Just search for Nikki on your site?
@@kdcarver here’s a playlist with all of the mowers I’ve recorded videos on with a Nikki carb. czcams.com/play/PL5_ZXmQpcjpbPG_TA7E8TDh-9PVRx7_xb.html&si=lXt2aprEq90BdYzY
@@baldeagle242 thanks for doing that. If you ever come across a flow diagram for these, I'd appreciate seeing it.
Got a rebuild kit. Dropped in the main jet with the o ring on it, 1) it didn't hold the jet in like in the video and 2) I couldn't get the whole plastic set up to seat against the carb. If I took the o ring off it dropped into place and felt better. You ever not use the o ring?
If the o-ring is loose or not installed it may allow fuel to bypass the main jet. It doesn’t have to be tight but it does need to be a snug fit.
Any idea why a brand new carb would cause the engine to surge? I've taken it apart to insure all the jets are open and O rings are in place and working properly. I've also tested the fuel pump, checked for vacuum leaks, and tried adjusting the mixture. Nothing seems to have any affect. It surges at both high and low speeds. My only thought is to scrap the carb and get another new one. The old carb wasn't surging. It began when I installed this new one. Briggs Stratton Intek 17hp with Nikki carb.
More than likely you have an air leak or the new jets are two small. I’d confirm there are no air leaks or cracks in the plastic intake. If that check out good I’d drill the main jet about .001” to .002” larger.
If that doesn’t work I’d swap the Nikki over to a Chinese Walbro and be done with it. 👇
czcams.com/video/ZVbOFzW0inM/video.htmlsi=2cEkbX-IaYDlccrQ
@@baldeagle242 Thanks for your reply. That's where I am with it. I think that I'll cut my losses and order another carb. It's just easier than trying to bore the jets when there's no guarantee it would work. I'll hang on to it as a future project when I have more time. Keep up the good work and thanks again. 👍👍👍
The aftermarket carbs are not the best. I’ve found aluminum flashing and seals that were crushed when they were assembled. Most of them are good usable carbs but quality checks are not factored into the price. I buy around 15-20 of them at a time and almost every time I’ll find at least one with an issue.