I'm not sure why it's recommended that 30 cm (minimum) is needed between the riser and the top of the "bell" when barrel rocket stoves operate most efficiently with the riser just 2 inches away from the metal barrel. In fact, people's systems slow down if the riser exit of gasses is more than a few inches away from the metal of the barrel. I'm not saying he should have gone to 2 inches here , but I don't see why over 10 inches is necessary?
Wow what a great build video! Building AND documenting this well is impressive. I also studied Peter and Matts work and asked a lot of questions before my first build. I am looking forward to doing my next build as a nice brick bell like yours. How is that vermiculite board holding up? I did not think it had a high enough temperature rating to be exposed to the heat in the riser.
Nice step by step video and explanation. What is your opinion of the performance of the light weight perforated bricks for the skin of your heater? Most old style masonry heaters use solid bricks (without holes). Do you feel you get good heat transfer and adequate thermal mass using the perforated bricks? Based on your experience with this heater, would you pack the holes full of mortar to improve heat transfer or leave them empty (full of only air)? Also, do you think it would be beneficial to use beveled bricks at either side of the bottom of the firebox to shepherd the coals together in the middle as the fire burns down? I think some of the Peter Berg batch box designs use this detail to encourage complete combustion of the fuel load. Again, very nice video and discussion of your build. Thanks very much.
Is tar the best material as it gets hot under the heater. How does the riser baffle work? How did you connect the temperature sensors? R u happy with its performance
There are two comments about "this not having the speed / draw" of a typical rocket stove which it does not. One comment said it's just a small masonry heater. Well, first off, there is nothing wrong with that if eventually, the smoke out the very top of the chimney eventually reduces to very little smoke, when things heat up. If "the rocket effect" just has to be there for some people to be happy, first off, we don't know anything about the chimney he is using carrying the smoke out of the house. The chimney has 50% importance in all wood burning systems and in these videos the chimney gets less than 5% of the discussion. If his draw is slow he should increase the length of the riser and he would be fine as long as he had about 4 to 5 inches to the top of the bell with gasses able to escape on all sides. Second, is the chimney starting from the top of the bell, to..... outside the house, insulated or at least moving through warm parts of the house? If metal stove pipe is allowed to be in the cold, this will hurt performance too. Surrounding hot gasses with cool bricks can create smoke as the temperatures come down as the bricks extract heat and it takes well over an hour for all the bricks to get warm if not hot. Finally, he does need more primary air for a rocket stove into a bell. It is operating very much like a regular wood stove. One final thing, many very large masonry heaters 10,000 lbs. + giants, burn a goodwhile with the door OPEN or cracked if they don't have a grate for air to come "under" the wood in the firebox.
Your design is different from the J tube rocket stoves I see on other channel’s is your design still being modified? Did you get the desired results? Some designs on the internet have no smoke except for startup I thought the purpose was to complete gasification and very long exhaust pipe buried in “cob” or some other mass to absorb the heat. I don’t know what your restrictions are, you didn’t elaborate. Just a chicken coop or is it your house?
That fire has no rocket function, it's just a masonry heater. You somehow killed it's rocket feature. Did you follow the correct measurements for the rear opening to the riser? Is the ceramic chimney riser the same diameter as the inside of the double wall chimney?
Thank you very much for publishing your efforts. Question @ 5:15 - Port thickness of 2” (50mm). Is that a requirement ? I don’t recall seeing that detail on Peterbergs site. (Or M Walker). Perhaps I missed that item?
Oops - ok just found it - on Batchrocket.eu. So - thanks for pointing that out. Also - yes - like other poster - I’d like to hear feedback on 1. the Vermiculite board, & 2. The Rondo flue. Are they holding up well ?
seems like the inside fire box and riser can not be replaced or repaired due to being enclosed. This parts need easy access to replace damaged parts. Even the best fire type boards wear out or gets damaged. If needing replaced, how? tear down the entire stove?
That's a good build, the secondary air should get hot enough to help burn the smoke. Nice white ash, very good. That should work well
I'm not sure why it's recommended that 30 cm (minimum) is needed between the riser and the top of the "bell" when barrel rocket stoves operate most efficiently with the riser just 2 inches away from the metal barrel. In fact, people's systems slow down if the riser exit of gasses is more than a few inches away from the metal of the barrel. I'm not saying he should have gone to 2 inches here , but I don't see why over 10 inches is necessary?
Wanted to watch. Had j.g ard time hearing.
Inspired by this. Will have to come back with head set.
I've seen a lot of builds of RMH on the Permies site but this one is intriguing. Thanks for sharing.
dont do this its a fire hazard big time
Wow what a great build video! Building AND documenting this well is impressive. I also studied Peter and Matts work and asked a lot of questions before my first build. I am looking forward to doing my next build as a nice brick bell like yours. How is that vermiculite board holding up? I did not think it had a high enough temperature rating to be exposed to the heat in the riser.
Very professional! Thank you for the sharing.
Nice step by step video and explanation.
What is your opinion of the performance of the light weight perforated bricks for the skin of your heater? Most old style masonry heaters use solid bricks (without holes). Do you feel you get good heat transfer and adequate thermal mass using the perforated bricks? Based on your experience with this heater, would you pack the holes full of mortar to improve heat transfer or leave them empty (full of only air)?
Also, do you think it would be beneficial to use beveled bricks at either side of the bottom of the firebox to shepherd the coals together in the middle as the fire burns down? I think some of the Peter Berg batch box designs use this detail to encourage complete combustion of the fuel load.
Again, very nice video and discussion of your build. Thanks very much.
Is tar the best material as it gets hot under the heater. How does the riser baffle work? How did you connect the temperature sensors? R u happy with its performance
There are two comments about "this not having the speed / draw" of a typical rocket stove which it does not. One comment said it's just a small masonry heater. Well, first off, there is nothing wrong with that if eventually, the smoke out the very top of the chimney eventually reduces to very little smoke, when things heat up. If "the rocket effect" just has to be there for some people to be happy, first off, we don't know anything about the chimney he is using carrying the smoke out of the house. The chimney has 50% importance in all wood burning systems and in these videos the chimney gets less than 5% of the discussion. If his draw is slow he should increase the length of the riser and he would be fine as long as he had about 4 to 5 inches to the top of the bell with gasses able to escape on all sides. Second, is the chimney starting from the top of the bell, to..... outside the house, insulated or at least moving through warm parts of the house? If metal stove pipe is allowed to be in the cold, this will hurt performance too. Surrounding hot gasses with cool bricks can create smoke as the temperatures come down as the bricks extract heat and it takes well over an hour for all the bricks to get warm if not hot. Finally, he does need more primary air for a rocket stove into a bell. It is operating very much like a regular wood stove. One final thing, many very large masonry heaters 10,000 lbs. + giants, burn a goodwhile with the door OPEN or cracked if they don't have a grate for air to come "under" the wood in the firebox.
Your design is different from the J tube rocket stoves I see on other channel’s is your design still being modified? Did you get the desired results? Some designs on the internet have no smoke except for startup I thought the purpose was to complete gasification and very long exhaust pipe buried in “cob” or some other mass to absorb the heat.
I don’t know what your restrictions are, you didn’t elaborate. Just a chicken coop or is it your house?
That fire has no rocket function, it's just a masonry heater. You somehow killed it's rocket feature. Did you follow the correct measurements for the rear opening to the riser? Is the ceramic chimney riser the same diameter as the inside of the double wall chimney?
Can you show just looking at the fire and tell just the temperature before & after, inside outside?
I may have missed it, but is the riser ceramic or clay?
Ceramic board of some kind. Clay... no way. Firebrick... OK.
Thank you very much for publishing your efforts.
Question @ 5:15 - Port thickness of 2” (50mm). Is that a requirement ? I don’t recall seeing that detail on Peterbergs site. (Or M Walker).
Perhaps I missed that item?
Oops - ok just found it - on Batchrocket.eu. So - thanks for pointing that out.
Also - yes - like other poster - I’d like to hear feedback on 1. the Vermiculite board, & 2. The Rondo flue.
Are they holding up well ?
seems like the inside fire box and riser can not be replaced or repaired due to being enclosed. This parts need easy access to replace damaged parts. Even the best fire type boards wear out or gets damaged. If needing replaced, how? tear down the entire stove?
If his mortar is 3 sand to 1 clay.... that's no big deal and no damage to bricks.
You’ve got part of the idea, but that’s not a rocket mass heater, it’s a woodstove.
Чудова річ! 🇺🇦☺️👍
Not really a rocket stove as the flames look like a slow burn as compared to a fast “rocket” burning… which burns off all the smoke
Wated to watch but Ial had really hard time hearing..