The "Aluminum Arrow Argument"
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- čas přidán 4. 09. 2024
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Best thing about aluminum arrows is they wont splinter and send shards thru your hand
And when you cut them, you never have to worry about breathing carbon dust.
Yeah and aluminum is hard too pull out of a block. They will dent, chip and bend.
@@Life-of-Bluegrass_Music When have you EVER seen an aluminum shaft CHIP? CHIP?? NOT! If you are such a bad shot that you are denting and bending arrows, you really need a shooting coach because you are definitely doing something wrong. I have been shooting aluminum arrows for 40 years. The only time I have ever damaged an arrow was when I was screwing around and shooting at things I shouldn't have anyway. That was my fault, not the arrow. I think you are just repeating things someone else told you.
@@jamescooper2618 I love aluminium arrows, however, if someone else is pulling the arrows out of a 3D target (usually when I'm scoring) and bends them on the way out, they don't last long.
@@x3roxide You have to really yank on an arrow sideways to bend it. Anyone pulling arrows that can not pull them straight, should not be allowed to pull arrows until they are taught the right way and can demonstrate they are responsible with other people's arrows. Simple as that.
Been shooting aluminum XX75's &XX78's for 40 years. Have taken many deer with aluminum and most were complete passthroughs. I have tried carbon arrows. True they are lighter for the same spine stiffness, and they are more durable if you target shoot alot, but I still prefer aluminum because they are much more consistent, way easier to pull out of a target, straighter as a general rule, and slightly heavier which makes them hit harder, and quiets my bow better than carbon shafts. I think it's just a matter of personal choice. One of the biggest reasons I still shoot aluminum arrows is simply because I am so used to them, and they have served me so well in the past that I just don't see a good enough reason to switch.
Agree 100%
I love not having to worry about tuning an arrow. It takes enough time and effort to get the bow tuned.
Great vid. I am an Easton Legacy aluminum shaft user myself, and have been for years. One of the many reasons I love aluminum shafts is that I can actually use it to hone my knife blade while out in the field. I figured that out while scraping off damaged feathers with my blade!
I smiled when you said "For those of you unfamiliar with aluminum arrows". I came into archery in the early '80s when aluminum arrows were, pretty much, the only arrows available and EASTON was the ONLY maker of arrows. Not being familiar with aluminum arrows meant you were a newbie to shooting a bow! Now, look at the choices you have! I now shoot only recurve bows and wood arrows, if you can imagine that! Aluminum arrows are easy to get, easy to build, easy to tune and do not stick in targets like others can. They are still a great option for a lot of things. Good shooting!
Youngsters, eh what can you do? LOL Carbon? What is that? Carbon arrows were like VCRs and DVD/DVRs, heck even just remote controll TVS lol HTH do you do that! Guess WOOD arrows with feathers were the BetaMax of arrow Tech? LOL
@@adamparsons1725 Wood arrows are a whole other world in archery, You build wood arrows like you build cabinets. With skill and love. That is way too much for most guys. They need instant gratification and want someone else to make their gear for them. That's fine, for them. I need to do some of it myself and know that "I did that". Cheers!
My biggest problem with aluminum arrows is getting rid of them. If I damage a carbon arrow it usually blows up and I have no problem throwing it away. If I bend an aluminum arrow I always think "I will just straighten it" and then I never do. I've got a pretty impressive collection of bent aluminum arrows sitting in a corner just waiting for "one day" haha.
Haha! Me too!
I got into the habit of snapping them in half over my knee. I didn't want to be unpleasantly surprised if the spine failed. So *SNAP* in the trash. After I pulled the unit knock and front insert.
Turn them into collapsible tent poles and sell them.
My bent arrows have a 2nd life as garden canes.
I know this does not necessarily reflect your video's intention but I shot Easton Aluminum Carbon Series E 3-28-500 from my 46lbs, 20inch draw PSE Dominator DC for a few times at very unpleasant 28mph wind with gusts up to 37mph on 20 yards and I even barely noticed the wind's impact on my groups.
I can only say that the impact that the wind has on yourself, your body and you holding or at least trying to hold the bow steady against the wind, is much bigger than the impact it has on the arrow itself in flight.
I am a traditional archer. That said, I have found myself shooting aluminums out of my recurve for hunting and carbons or woods for practice or field. They are heavier and seem to bring down game more effectively. I also shoot a lot closer than a compound archer would, even out here (Australia) in the more open country we tend to hunt in. If I can't get close enough for an ethical shot, I simply don't shoot.
Hey Gilan, I'm wondering where you get your wood arrows from? I've recently gotten into archery and am wanting to try out wood shafts, but can't find anything here in QLD. Any advise?
@@CarlsGravylook online
All
I shoot is xx75 camo hunters and at 595 grains tipped with a Magnus stinger 2 blade 125 and it’s a killer
In 1974 I bought six Bear aluminum arrows. I believe they were made by Easton for Bear. They were 2016s. I still have two of them, so durability is not really an issue. Of the ones I no longer have, two managed to sneak under grass and leaves in the woods and I was never able to find them. One I did manage to bend by smacking a rock while stump shooting and the other I Robin Hooded with another arrow. I've had deer jump and kick and break aluminum and carbon arrows. In fact the last four deer I've killed have broken my carbon arrows. About the only advantage I really see in carbon shafts is that they are either straight or broken. It is possible to bend the aluminum ones, although it's not really as common as the naysayers would have you believe. Wood, aluminum, or carbon all work, so shoot what works for you. Good video as usual!
Outstanding information and archery knowledge, thank you for sharing. There is a reason why they still make aluminum arrows 👍
*I recently switched to 2219 XX75 Magnum for my Excalibur crossbow. These worked fine {back in the 1980's} "before carbon was popular" and will surely work well now.*
So happy to see you again
I have a 'blemish' 2315 Gamegetter II that we call rusty (it looks rusty..). It has killed 7 deer and still spins perfectly. It was retired a long time ago when I switched from 2315s to 2317s (Camo Hunters) Around that time, I also experimented some with ACC 3-71s and Gold Tip Pro Hunter 300s. From 20 yards, I accidentally shot one of the Gold Tips into a green treated timber above the bale at Spring Lake Park Reserve. (Wrong pin - brilliant...) The first 1/2 to 1 inch of the shaft behind the insert was splintered/pulverized (from the insert and tip jamming back into it.) Out of curiosity, I came back with same bow later and did the same with a 2317 and an ACC. The ACC did the same, but probably not quite as much of the end was pulverized. The 2317 was still shootable - the insert moved back in a little - you could see end of the arrow looked a little fatter. Maybe you guys are shooting thin-walled aluminum(?) Mine don't concede toughness to carbon.. Plus they're easier to work with, straighter and more consistent than your average carbon, cost quite a bit less, and naturally give you a good 550+ gr hunting-weight arrow (without having to mess around with costly, non-standard components to get the weight of carbon up.)
Just picked up 9 xx75 2219 camo hunters for 5 dollars at a pawn shop. Just need to buy some feathers and they will be ready for season. Shooting a new bear takedown aluminum riser with 50lb limbs. With 225 meatheads I’m at 725 grains without vanes on there yet.
Probably going to go down on broadhead grains though. I just had the meat heads laying around from my Kodak magnum recurve.
I found the xx75 camo hunter (2413) flys really straight and fast and hit my 50 yard targets really nicely and dead accurate
Been hunting them for 20 years. Never would change.
@@kentuckyboy5412216’s. Work great
I’ve used xx75 camo hunters and xx78’s (when they were still in production) for years! I’ve only recently just switched to carbon to try them out
I have filled alot of tags in the past 35 years with easton aluminum shafts.
I also tested my xx75' to my carbon victory vforce 0.003 straightness 9.8gpi as the xx75 is a 0.002 straightness . Was constantly having to resight my bow to stay on target with the vforce especially out around 30 to 35 yards compared to the xx75 was dead on at 30 and 35 yards and even a 46 yards. Not quite as fast but a lot more accurate as my 65 pound draw @ 29 inches. Thanks for your advise jack you have helped me so much
I recently started using 23/64 wood shafts. They are wonderful and a thrill to watch fly to the target. Like a big lovely fat rocket. I never gave it much thought, but a fat arrow is fun to shoot.
With a compound bow....they are called "exploding arrows".
I have very similar Easton camo aluminum arrows, they've been refletched a couple of times in their long life with me, still going strong. They actually came with my bow which my dad got for me from an old friend who upgraded, it was an old bear bow probably from the late 90's, the arrows were probably not much younger. If I had to give up my carbon arrows, I'd be perfectly happy going back to aluminum, never had a problem with them.
I'm shooting roughly 20 year old Easton X7 Cobalt shafts as an indoor arrow this season. Got them dirt cheap as NOS together with matching points. Great arrows and very fancy colour. I would consider the more precise then Fatboys.
I live in the UK and pro shops are very far and few between so I have to buy mainly on line so all the advice you can give me is greatly apprrecheated...............I generally go for carbon as most people recommended them but I'm only go target shooting as deer shooting is banned sadly enough unless you know someone with private land who will let you shoot their deer but this is usually kept for shooting friends, so as much advice would be greatly apprrecheated tho i do prefer 7 OD csrbon arrows, tryed 8's but just didnt like them. If you suggest I try aluminium I'll give it a go.
I've been shooting 30" XX75 2117's with 125 gr. Thunderheads from an old late 1980's Martin Cougar Magnum with a WB rest, peep eliminator and pin sights. Plenty of punch, very accurate and I wouldn't bother to use anything else. Killed deer out to 60 yards and hit them where I aimed. The peep eliminator has been a godsend since I am left eye dominant and shoot right handed.
I just got the peep eliminator , dominant eye sight same as you. I got it just the other day . How are you liking it
I've been shooting the XX75 camo hunters since I got tired of going through broken wooden arrows. I shoot trad barebow and have used them for hunting as well as competition. Sad that aluminum arrows are getting harder to find in shops, I enjoy them because they are so shootable even if slightly bent. Carbons seem to be fragile as well as expensive. I can pick up aluminums in yard sales as well as pawn shops and e-bay and they last forever, or until I hit something really badly
I've been shooting easton xx78 super slams 2117's 26.5 draw length at 55 lbs. sense 1978 and I have no reason to switch.
I've put down deer up to 60 yards.
Thanks AJA glad to see you back more often. And more good advice. I live in the woods of NSW Australia and with the terrain I’m not sure Ali shafts would enjoy it 😂 but I think I’ll give them a whirl. 🤘🏻
Hi bwlboy i also live in Australia (wa) did you get a chance to try ali arrows, I'm interested in how they went, I'm looking at getting some possibly
Cedar, the best shaft material ever. And that wonderful aroma when you taper the ends.
A great classic material. You on the Leatherwall?
Yeah for a recurve
Great, informative, articulate video.
I still have my aluminum X7 arrows from target shooting as a youth. These had the old tapered tips, black anodized, super tough, super straight. Throw them on the Arizona straightener if you have a wayward shot. I'd love to have a new dozen in my current draw weight.
ive tested my fmjs versus my gamegetters and found they fly almost the same at 30 yards. the fmjs punch a neat little hole through the bag and the gamegetters punch a hole through hole and knock the bag over
I don't understand the spine on those. If I use a 300 spine wat aluminum shaft would it be?
This is the information New and returning Archers need to know. Arrow stock can be as expensive as some quality used bows
Here's something nice, if you have a loose nock you can replace it for little cost, if your points are damaged, you can fix that, if a fletching comes off, you can fix that! If the shaft gets bent, you can use an arrow straightener to fix it! There is absolutely nothing that can't be fixed when you are building aluminum arrows yourself. The shafts have to be severily bent in order to cause a problem with a straightener not being able to fix it. What can you do with carbon cracking again? Throw it out, if you are having your arrows crack, you have seeminly no other choice than to throw that shaft you worked so hard on away.....and the price point is amazing! You're talking saving up to 6 dollars a shaft in order to get that nice .001 straightness tolerance, which to a beginning archer, isn't going to feel much different right away until you have used those arrows for a long time. 48 bucks per dozen for saving on 001 straightnees? Sounds like I'll get more than a dozen Aluminum on my next order!
Right now om shooting gold tip hunter 340 carbon arrows and an going to try Eastons xx75. I like carbon but I've seen them blow up mid spin and go through people's hand and that's quite worrying.
I dont shoot compound bows any more, only trad now so the bigger diameter means nothing within 30 yards
Also my arrows are 700 grains
I'm shooting 2315 with a 125 grain point. Best arrows ever.
I k ow this is an older video... I am tuning up an old Martin Pantera bow that I have (2012) and I am considering using aluminium arrows. My question is fletching. I use Blazers on my carbon (helical) arrows. Should I be looking to try a longer vane with aluminums? As it is now, I will be using a 125 grain fixed head. Just wondering.
I shoot Blazers with aluminum no issues. However, aesthetically, they just don't looked "right". 🤣 So I went with 3" Bohning X. Same material as Blazer, just different cut and length.
I found a whole bunch of old aluminum arrow in my dad's barn, he said take them. They shoot great....I'm also in NE (wny) and never shoot further then 35 yds.....I may actually use them this season
WNY? Me too. What town?
There awesome but hardly seen them anymore
Arrow speed has very little with long distance shots. When kinetic energy changes to momentum as the arrow hits the animal you want a heavier arrow. The kinematic energy will be similar with a light fast arrow but the light arrows won't have the momentum the heavier ones do.
They are affordable and pack a serious punch!
Key to xx75 is to put a right helical and feather vanes they will spin and and they are accurate 600 grains out of a 70 pound bow is so deadly with 125 grain Magnus stingers or thunderheads on almost any game
xx75 were the shit when I started shooting in 1984.
Easton's proprietary 7000 series aluminum alloys are remarkably strong nowadays, having tensile strengths in the 90000 to 100000 psi range. But that's still no match for carbon fiber, which can have tensile strengths exceeding 250000 psi and a specific stiffness five times that of aluminum. The high specific stiffness is what allows carbon fiber arrows to be made in small diameters. Whereas aluminum-only shafts have to be either very large in diameter or have very thick walls to achieve the same spine rating. One of the advantages aluminum has over carbon fiber is its ability to be straightened with basic hand tools after a hard impact. Carbon fiber shafts on the other hand cannot be repaired or straightened in the event the fiber matrix tears or debonds from the polymer. Although it's important to note that carbon fiber shafts can take more punishment before they do break compared to aluminum when it starts to bend.
I Still hunt with them, probably taken more than 40 deer with them
Thanks
I like how hard they hit
After a botched shot the string hit my chest pocket flap I watched a doe reach back and chew my carbon arrow into splinters and try to pull them out. She succeeded to pull quite a few pieces out. Was amazing to watch and I did find her as she eventually bedded down 60 yards away and headed to the light.
Aluminum arrows are great if you have a strong head wind from experience. You have more poundage from a bow transfer into the Aluminum arrows deep Penetration from prevous testing I've seen. Wear HECS camo hides your magnetic field . You walk upto to them and touch them, and they won't see you as a human.
In the UK it is illegal to hunt with a bow. :-(
I shoot target with aluminum arrows, both indoors and outdoors.
The club where I shoot has a 100% carbon arrow ban. The club is based at a school, as such we need to have 100% arrow accountability (No lost arrows).
Aluminum or Alu/carbon composite shafts are easy to find with a metal detector.
The more numerous the laws, the more corrupt the state.
Do they also ban wooden arrows?
I would move then lol liberal country.
Well...no one is watching you so...
Aluminum ftw! Especially with airbows
I also restrict myself to 30 yards max....
I see arrows like bullets. Xx75 are a no brainer for me. 24 arrows for the price of 12 fmjs. I found a deal in 2009 for 3 dozen 2117s. I still have almost 2 dozen gtg. Then in 2019 i got a deal on 3 dozen carbon express predators. I burned through them crazy fast and have about the same left. Aluminums are gtg with nock hits. They dont mushroom, they almost always pass through, and for practical use, what would ruin a xx75 will usually ruin carbon.
I still have and shoot some of my first gamegetters from 10 years ago most of them are a couple inches shorter from lopping off the bends and dings from missing targets and slaming into rocks and bricks. But they still shoot streight, try doing that with carbon. One rock hit and your done
I got a mathews legacy. Its probably going to be about 50 lb draw. What arrow would work good for probably mostly hunting. I will also use it for some foam target shooting.
Ryan Eiler They will all work. To figure out what spine arrow. You need the speed of your bow.
Your draw length.
Then look it up on your arrow manufacturers spine chart on their website
Simple eh.
Ryan Eiler Gold tips are where it’s at brother, and I know you probably have broadheads in mind but try out the expandable G5’s. Deadly accurate and they make an exit hole the size of a rifle. I’ll never shoot a different broadhead 👍🏻
@@aidanmorrison2109 I'll look into it!! Thanks!! And I was planning on using rage 2 blade mechanical!
Ryan Eiler No problem, and yea definitely check em out, I have never had any issues with them whatsoever. After you shoot them you can sometime even reuse they without having to replace the small little holder for the blades. I’m pretty sure you have to replace the bands on rage every time you shoot; I could be wrong tho
now i know what to do with my aluminum cans, thank you
Will i be able to cut the xx75 and reuse the insert or are they pressd in?
Yes, just cut the shafts, square/debur and clean the inside and then use Bohning Ferr-L-Tite hot melt to glue in the inserts. Remove or rotate the inserts with a little heat. You also don't have to be as careful with heat around aluminum shafts as you do carbon.
Hey Nate I love my aluminum arrows but I recently bumped up my bow poundage from 50lb to 60lb but am still shooting a 2219 cut to 29 inch with 100 grain head and stander inserts but since I bump up the poundage my broadhead don’t fly good do you thing the arrow is underpinned and if so what arrow would you recommend for my set up. Thank for the video
I think you need to retune! Those 2219s are PLENTY stiff. Plenty. But now your bow is forcing more and I'll bet a simple rest movement is all that's needed.
@@averagejackarchery I thought the shaft should be fine but I already tried doing moving the rest around but my broadhead (Magnus stinger buzz cut) were not getting any closer to my field points and were constantly about 5 inches left and were not broadhead tuning which usually all ways works for me. The only think I can think of is my bow scale which was a cheap one from Amazon is off and the bow might actually be high than 60lb or something else wrong with the bow that I don’t know about.
@@jakelukasko8717 I'd definitely shoot a field point through paper first and see what kinds of tear you're getting. Just a little paper tune can reveal the simplest twek necessary to get everything flying perfectly again!
@@averagejackarchery ok thank you
Well presented video!
Do you use a range finder for hunting or Target practice?
carbon arrows, for those who enjoy flex testing arrows after every shot, while holding their breath before releasing a shot with 911 on speed dial ready at hand.. the hand that doesn't have carbon fibers deeply embedded within it.
For hunting, would you use a 2315 or 2219?
Either one!
Good spot on info brother..
Aluminum arrows are the ..30/06 .308 of the Bowhunting world. Been around forever and will continue to kill whitetails. Can’t beat em especially for price performance.
Just me, Started shooting archery in 1990, I was 26. The sport was expensive. Easton Game hunter arrows $75.00 per dozen they had a +-.008 straightness. I purchased XX75's for hunting they were $89.00 a dozen they were has a better.005" straightness. We would shoot around 200 arrows every morning starting in March all the way up to 1 week before the hunt. 1993 rolled around and Beaman introduced the first small all graphite arrow shaft. I didn't like them, they were uni-directional carbon. If you hit something hard they would splinter. they had a staginess tolerance of .003". I thought $110.00 per dozen was a ridiculous price. I never bought any, The second carbon arrow that came out was the 1st Gen Gold Tip. it was a tapered shaft. spiral wound 100% Carbon fiber. Very durable!. But I didn't like the taper so no I didn't spent $120.00. The second Generation Gold tip i ran across i think was in 1998, it was a 5 layered, 3 linear and 2 wound one left one right. Said to have a straightness of .003" Gold tip 5575's (todays Gold Tip size 400), light strong, reported to be durable. I broke down and bought 12..... I still have 10 of the original 12. Broke one off in a tree. Hit a branch that diverted the arrow into a hard granite boulder. That pushed the insert 3" into the shaft. in my first 8 years shooting i must have bought at least 3 dozen aluminum arrows each year. In 2019 I broke down and purchased a new set of Gold tip Hunter Pro 400 shafts at the tune of $159.00. I don't for see having to purchase any more unless I start to miss the target and hit rocks.
Durable
Came in to archery and bowhunting just about the same time as you (1989) and I agree. I shot aluminum arrows for years! I I was a later convert to carbon, switching around 2000ish to Easton evolutions (still have just shy of 2 doz that I could use). Have used several different brands since (GT, Black Eagle, Beman, etc) and most have been great. I have fond memories of many hunts and shoots with alum, but carbon arrows are superior.
Six Easton fmj 5mm arrows would cost $85 here in Iowa. Crazy expensive
Gavin DeHoogh I bought some a few weeks ago and im scared to shoot them! I definitely know where youre coming from!
FMJ is a waste! Instead of just one type of material being a variable, you have 2.. rather than just being concerned about the carbon insides, you have the aluminum external layer. That just makes for more things to go wrong. That doesn't include the weight and weight displacement either.
@@ronin5979 nope, sorry it just makes it safer, not just more complicated as you insinuate. Alone the fact, the carbon sticks to the aluminum so theres no chance it will shred through your arm in thin stripes.
Average jack archer how have the aluminum held up? Were you able to harvest a deer with them, if so how did they survive?
Aluminums can be hit and miss on their durability. I've had some come out unscathed and some bent like a scythe blade. But at their price point and overall weight that I like I can't complain too much.
So similar to carbon then where some come out fine and some snap like a little twig.
Every year I buy a dozen 340 beman ICS Hunter arrows, fletched, with inserts and a field tip for $110
I run carbon express game slayers . Good inexpensive arrows .
Chinese
@Average Jack Archery How have the aluminium arrows been performing for you since you first made this video?
I've beaten the tar out of them! Hahah! But when I'm not being stupid about it the have performed flawlessly again and again.
In my opinion the cheaper the arrow the more "COWBOY" you see people, they just sling arrows around like a joke and never seem to be serious or have respect in this sport, then there's the side of them that don't give a shit about a clean kill on what they hunt. Yes I tried the xx75 arrows in the 80s as there wasn't a whole lot of choice. But with today's technology you should harness its full potential and let it make you a better overall archer.
What does easton xx75 arrows mean?
Easton made two aluminum arrows: XX75 and XX78. It refers to the PSI stength of the aluminum. Just a category. The XX78 were stronger hypothetically with tighter tolerances.
7075 , it’s the grade of aluminum
@@TON_KROW nice thing is that you can get them from aliexpress for like 12 shafts for 30 bucks 7075 aluminum, currently own 24 of those, but man they have thick inner and outer diameters
I’m old school. I prefer aluminum and would not like a broken carbon arrow through my hand. hybrids are too expensive
An arrow is an arrow. We are not hunting dinosaurs, any arrow will put down a elk...
2117 s bro
Purely a matter of opinion, nothing else..
I shoot Easton gamegetter 21 _17s have for years killed a lot of deer with them over the years I laugh when I go to 3D shoots people always try to get me to change to carbon until I out shoot them with my $50 a dozen Arrows g5 cs tips gamegetter arrows 70 pound bow deadly on almost any thang
do you work at a bow shop
Yup! Right here in PA.
A 2315 arrow is 23 thousands of an inch in diameter, not 23/64 in diameter. otherwise very good video, thanks...
.023 is most certainly NOT the diameter of the arrow. A standard carbon arrows inside diameter is .246. The 23 is 23/64, and the 15 is .015 and denoted the thickness of the wall of the aluminum.
@@averagejackarchery Oops, my bad, you are correct and I am incorrect...
Wrong...
Tight groups at 86 yards 15 miles an hour winds my friend try that with any arrow a doubt u even hit anything 👌👌👌love my FMJ
And if u go to sportsman guide and get the 350 trophy hunter ($35 on sale) you'll get the best arrow for the $. I shoot them in my compound (matthews switchback 30" draw @ 70#'s) with no issues. I also shoot them out of my recurve @28" draw 45#'s with no issues. I add 100 grain brass insert to it and I'm set. Shooting a 125 broadhead. I've shot about every arrow on the market and by far aluminum and fmj's are the worse. If they get bent in the field while traveling to your stand and then when u shoot it becomes obvious that something was wrong. A true all carbon will spring back to the original straightness were the aluminum or the FMJ will not
There is nothing wrong with aluminum shafts.
Couldn't agree more!
Haterz gonna hate
Um shots can be easily leathal at far more than 40yds... 2 to 3 times as far
120 yards? a deer can jump a string at 30 yards, imagine at 120. and what if it's windy? good luck making that 120 yard shot. not a chance they are "easily" lethal at 120 yards. they'd have to be an absolute perfect shot at that distance. and how much speed and energy is a shot losing at 120 yards? it's one thing to hit a target at that distance, a whole other ballgame trying to kill an animal. and game isn't always in a big open field. good luck with a 120 yard shot in cover.
Too much can go wrong at ranges over 35 -40 yards and you wind up with a wounded animal or, at best, a lost arrow. Bowhunting is a short range sport, always has been. Those who take long range shots at game with a bow are crazy, not to mention immoral and unethical. Use a rifle. You can say all you want about so-and -so killing deer at 80-100 yards but I'll tell you it's either a one time pure lucky shot or total bull shit and just wrong. I'll stand by that all day. UMMM
@@zzz7zzz9 yeah you're right. Suppose too shoot when his heads down, or looking away. Aim low he will never jump your arrow.
@@jamescooper2618 farthest bow kill I took was 50 yards. Using coc killzones. The doe jump 4 feet to 5 feet in the air. Nosed dived scooted 10 feet dead in 30 seconds.
@@Life-of-Bluegrass_Music The farther you push your luck, the more chance you have of watching that nice buck run away with your arrow hanging out of it's guts or it's ass or some other non lethal place, at which point, if you are an ethical hunter, you should punch your tag and quit hunting. Hasn't happened yet? It will! Learn how to get closer to game and don't. be so desperate to kill something