COMPLETE LS REAR COVER, REAR MAIN SEAL AND BARBELL/OIL RESTRICTOR REMOVAL AND INSTALL
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- čas přidán 15. 02. 2021
- Everything you need to know to finish the job. New gasket, new oil restrictor and new seal. If your are replacing your rear main seal you should definitely spend an extra $20 on a oil restrictor to keep your oil pressure up where it should be.
Skip ahead to 1:35 if you don't want to watch the rear engine clean-up.
Disclaimer: The content provided in this video is for informational use only. Video content is provided at the viewers own risk and the viewer will not hold the parties involved in creating, producing or delivering this information liable for any loss, injury, claim, liability, or damage of any kind resulting in any way from any errors in or omissions from the information. Thanks for understanding. - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Really appreciate this 🤙🏻
Glad that it might have helped.
Good information video 👍🏻
Thank you very much, that's what I'm aiming for.
Thanks
Best Video well done
Thank you so much 😀
Well done.
Engine end covers before the pan. Proper sequence .
He didn't torque spec the bolts or even silicone on the edge of the plates to seal it right this a mess from the part where he didn't torque spec the bolts
Great job.. this was actually relaxing to watch.
Thanks man.
I give it less than 24 hrs for it to leak again 😢waste of time
@@rotsbelramos7685 Drove it for two years pulled the engine and no leaks.
now do it in the car......very clean work area !!
What is that area above the back of the cam ? You have paper shoved in it. Is that open all the time .
It's covered when the cover go's back on. It's where the cam angle sensor comes down.
Actually it's covered by the transmission bellhousing. I dunno why it's like that. I remember the cam sensor go's down further and seals below the opening.
Nice!! Will this be the same procedure to a 6.2
Should be the same for any Ls engine. The whole exercise is to make sure the torque values are accurate. If the spring is pushing against the rocker there is no way to get the right torque.
Iv put together a few LS now and i have never used a tool to Aline gasket to crank. Iv just flat edge the cover to the block on both sides. Yet to have a problem thankfully 😅
I'm sure thats ok but I've heard even a slight gap around the crank can cause a leak.
Your right" if the seal is on first, and you straight edge. It's the same thing. Same as the front, use the Hormonic Balancer. People get wrapped up in marketing not Realizing people are trying to get their hustle on and make a buck. I just wish I would have thought of it first lol
Did you reuse the rear cover gasket?
No, I used all new in the engine. I didn't rebuild down to the crank, but I replaced everything, seals, gaskets and O-rings. Its a high mileage truck engine so I'll eventually re-built it completely and bore it out to 5.7L.
The rear main seal plate is torqued at 22 pounds per bolt thats the spec the pan bolts are 15 lbs on the digital wrench
Should have shimmed the plate with the crank flush on bottom might not square u up with the crank
Srry, I don't get this, shimmed the plate?
@@miatajackdiy4293 seal going on the crank and having the timing cover plate square with the crank might not happen by just flushing it up on the bottom
@@miatajackdiy4293 kinda like shimming an oil pump but u would be shimming the rear main seal
@@simplestandards Thats why I used the alignment tool. It centers the plate to the crankshaft. I don't know how a crank could be 'square' with the plate, it has to be perfectly centered to the crank otherwise the seal will leak.
@@miatajackdiy4293 thats what square means is to center it perfectly in your case having a radius would mean equal distence around
Is this the lm7 5.3?
No, it's the L33 aluminum block high-output truck engine.
Without the sump it's part of the torque sequence the two bolts that pull the cover downward are at different torque specs so all that alignment was a waste of time. However you were thoroughly clean and precise in other aspects. Your sump should have been attached at time of fitting the rear plate and aligning tool used.
From what I've seen it can be done without the oil pan. Why would you have to pull the cover down? It has to be centered for the seal. If it's flush with the engine block then the mating surface is flat for the oil pan. You can take the oil pan off and re-install it without removing the cover.
@@miatajackdiy4293 as it states from the factory and aftermarket parts guys, part of the process...however what would they know
..as they only build create this stuff. Backyard mechanic knows best
@@454bigblock V8 ENGINES
9 Install the rear seal housing retaining bolts on the engine loosely
and align the rear housing as follows:
a) Place a straightedge on the engine block oil pan rail. Measure the
distance on each side of the block from tl7e oil pan rail to the rear
lwusing with a feeler gauge (see illustration). This Step measures
the difference between the sealing surface of the oil pan and the
sealing surface of the rear seal housing in relationship to each
other.
b) Tilt the rear seal housing as necessary to achieve an even measurement
on each side. This Step properly aligns the rear seal
housing to oil pan sealing surfaces. Typically 0.000 to 0.020 inch
is an acceptable tolerance
@@454bigblock ~Note: Ideally the rear seal housing should be flush with the
oil pan rail, but because of the differences in seal thickness,
this may not always be obtainable. That is why there is a tolerance
of 0.000 to 0.020 inch. Always let the rear seal center
itself around the crankshaft and tilt the cover from side-to-side
to even up the measurement at both oil pan rails. Never push
downward on the rear seal housing in an attempt to make the
oil pan sealing surface flush, as this will distort the rear oil seal
and eventually lead to an oil leak!
@@454bigblock This is from the factory manual. I guess they would know more than the aftermarket parts guys.
What are doing using a speed wernch your js like the Mexican mechanics dont use el manual says you have to torque spec the bolts you cant js speed wrech em in plus there a zig zag pattern you didn't even perform right
If you watch the video I use a torque wrench to finish torqing the bolts
Did you use any thread sealer or Loctite?
I put the seal in dry, not sure if other ppl used something else.