Thanks Musket Matters for your video, I know I'm late to the party on this but, I recently discovered your channel after obtaining an Italian 1859 Sharps rifle, therefore, I have been researching a lot of info. I purchased the "Star & Bullock" 1859 54 Cal Sharps Kit and it works reasonably well. However, there are parts of your reloading process that I like better, e.g., your brass 17/32" dowel and Doning Block & the way you push thru your circular end cap. I'm sure you have shot hundreds of these and found them to fire safely but, I kind of understand peoples concers on air gap between powder & bullet, albeit, I believe it's been proven several times over that the saftey concern is blown way out of proportion! With that being said, if someone still has concerns about it, they could simply measure how much filler (Corn Starch, Corn Meal, etc.) they would need to where the bottom of their bullet rest up next to it and be done with it. I believe this has been done by several people over the years showing no real difference in accuracy & no unnecessary risks! Anyways, I loved the video and plan on incorporating some of your techniques, thanks again.
Steve, I'm curious as to.your opinion on using glue versus nail polish to attach the bullet. I'm new to.the Sharps and will be shooting my first N-SSA comp next week. I've made cartridges like yours and glued my Rochmond bullet in with stick glue. Ive seen other videos that say use nail polish instead of glue. Not really sure why. Thanks. Tim
I have only ever used Elmer's White Glue or Duco Cement. Charlie Hahn recommends Duco when using his cardboard tubes. I think nail polish would probably work fine. I think it is probably advantageous to use a glue that dries hard and brittle, so that it wants to flake off the bullet on firing. Any kind of rubbery glue might tend to cling to the bullet and effect accuracy. This is just a guess on my part. But I know that historically the British made alterations to their Enfield ammunition to make sure the bullet shed its paper patch because sometimes it clung to the bullet and affected accuracy.
Have you ever tried to put your glue stick on both the long end and the short end of your paper and apply your end piece on and then wrap your paper around the mandrel capturing your end cap and completing your tube with one step?
I'm curious it looks like you have an air space between the bullet and the powder. I thought that was a big no no with black powder. I have never shot a 1859 sharps carbine ,I have an 1874 Sharps metallic cartridge
I have never tried stick glue on the bullet. With the Christmas tree / ringtail, I had to use superglue to get the bullet to consistently stick. Since the Eras Gone Richmond has such a long heel, I think just about any kind of glue will work well.
nice and informative. looking to get into black powder shooting down here in Australia
Thanks Musket Matters for your video, I know I'm late to the party on this but, I recently discovered your channel after obtaining an Italian 1859 Sharps rifle, therefore, I have been researching a lot of info. I purchased the "Star & Bullock" 1859 54 Cal Sharps Kit and it works reasonably well. However, there are parts of your reloading process that I like better, e.g., your brass 17/32" dowel and Doning Block & the way you push thru your circular end cap. I'm sure you have shot hundreds of these and found them to fire safely but, I kind of understand peoples concers on air gap between powder & bullet, albeit, I believe it's been proven several times over that the saftey concern is blown way out of proportion! With that being said, if someone still has concerns about it, they could simply measure how much filler (Corn Starch, Corn Meal, etc.) they would need to where the bottom of their bullet rest up next to it and be done with it. I believe this has been done by several people over the years showing no real difference in accuracy & no unnecessary risks! Anyways, I loved the video and plan on incorporating some of your techniques, thanks again.
You can also use fiber wads, which is what I use now as they are easier to insert and no gluing is required.
@@musketmatters2004
Where do you get your fiber wads?
@@deputyspence9368 Track of the Wolf is one source.
Could you please confirm if that is indeed a 17/32 tube? Thank you. Great video.
Steve, I'm curious as to.your opinion on using glue versus nail polish to attach the bullet. I'm new to.the Sharps and will be shooting my first N-SSA comp next week. I've made cartridges like yours and glued my Rochmond bullet in with stick glue. Ive seen other videos that say use nail polish instead of glue. Not really sure why. Thanks. Tim
I have only ever used Elmer's White Glue or Duco Cement. Charlie Hahn recommends Duco when using his cardboard tubes. I think nail polish would probably work fine. I think it is probably advantageous to use a glue that dries hard and brittle, so that it wants to flake off the bullet on firing. Any kind of rubbery glue might tend to cling to the bullet and effect accuracy. This is just a guess on my part. But I know that historically the British made alterations to their Enfield ammunition to make sure the bullet shed its paper patch because sometimes it clung to the bullet and affected accuracy.
Have you ever tried to put your glue stick on both the long end and the short end of your paper and apply your end piece on and then wrap your paper around the mandrel capturing your end cap and completing your tube with one step?
I'm curious it looks like you have an air space between the bullet and the powder. I thought that was a big no no with black powder. I have never shot a 1859 sharps carbine ,I have an 1874 Sharps metallic cartridge
It is impossible not to have an air gap in the percussion Sharps, due to the cavity in the breech block behind the cartridge.
Do you find the liquid glue works better than the glue stick on the bullet?
I have never tried stick glue on the bullet. With the Christmas tree / ringtail, I had to use superglue to get the bullet to consistently stick. Since the Eras Gone Richmond has such a long heel, I think just about any kind of glue will work well.