The rubber cap at the top of vacuum gauge is the fill port for the glycerine. There is no adjustment under the cap. You do indeed have to vent this type of gauge after installation or any elevation change in order to get accurate readings, and even temperature changes will cause gross errors. Some gauges have a manual vent valve incorporated into the rubber cap to facilitate this, and some manufacturers will even recommend leaving the vent open if the gauge is installed in a permanent upright position.
@@JoelArseneaultCZcams thanks bud I just notice that is has a snap ring at the end . All I need to do is remove the motor from pump assembly. Thanks again
Thanks for the very thorough walkthrough. I have the same pump. Just a couple of comments: 1) Mine was missing exactly the same screw in exactly the same place. Maybe they left it out on purpose, but I replaced it like you did and it seems to run fine. 2) The reed valve screws had thread lock compound residue on them, so I used Loctite blue when reassembling. 3) Mine was gritty inside as well, so disassembling and cleaning is definitely a good idea for these pumps. 4) The chart showing vacuum loss with increasing elevation alone was worth watching the video. Cheers!
Thanks for the detailed comment ! I have used mine for many many hours now 100% trouble free.... only thing that happens is I forget the vent plug in and it scares the crap out of me when it pops out with a bang, haha.
The rubber plug on the top of the gauge lets you set the pressure it is referencing. If you remove it or cut the nipple off it will reference atmosphere. Otherwise it will reference the last pressure it was removed at.
That's great information. I appreciate the time and detail you put in this. I just bought a Vevo home to stage vacuum pump model VP 245. Haven't taken it apart yet but this will still be very helpful.
@@JoelArseneaultCZcams I have a pump that needs to be rebuilt/cleaned, and I was also considering buying a pump and chamber setup on Amazon for around 200 bucks--and I was wondeirng--did you link where you bought your setup? Thanks, -sb
@@sbalger Hello. I didn't link it. They change availability very quickly and I had to purchase a few pumps before getting a good one. I believe I purchased 4 and returned the first 3, as they were way too rusty inside. I got them all from sellers on Amazon, but you can get the same one from a company called Venvor. I believe they ship directly ( here in Canada )
Very interesting and on right timing video for me. I bought a VEVOR 2 stage 12CFM (VP280) 2 weeks ago. Received it in very well condition, not flooded from oil in packaging and not seized. My first interrogation have been how much oil to put in because using the quantity as on the side label seem too much an this model don't have level mark on or near sight glass. I have poor oil to mid high level on the sight glass and run the pump for few hours with intake capped to warm it up. The pump initially produce gentle soft sound but as it become hot it start to produce a rattling noise. When the pump become hot the oil level is over the sight glass. I have tried to used less oil but rattling noise remain , but rattling reduce when the oil level is mid height when pump is running and hot. It seem to be related to oil viscosity. Oil was not included in the package and I am using high vacuum rated oil from Amazon Robinar Premium vacuum pump oil. Your video is giving me the kick to take the pump apart, but I am afraid not to be able find and solve the issue without directive. Further more, interrogation concerning piping diameter and length from pump to chamber is very important not to choke and limit flow. I rather to breathe through a snorkel than through a straw. Pipe conductance in viscous regime (Couette flow), the ability to let air flow goes as diameter to forth power (D^4) and inversely proportional to the length. So short and larger diameter as possible is always the best. As a rule of thumb, conductance should be ten time that of the pump. Conductance is also function of pressure and decrease with the pressure. Larger diameter help to keep the flow in viscous regime because as the pressure decrease flow become in molecular regime and conductance fall a lot to diameter square (D^2) Also, mechanical pumping speed must be match with chamber volume. These pump are not air pump and should not at atmospheric pressure for an extended period of time. Most pump manufacturer usually specify the maximum chamber volume. Finally, mechanical Bourdon type gauge are not very precise and thermal type gauge are highly more precise and reliable. What type of oil come with the pump? I would like to run it with specified oil before taking it apart. Good and valuable video, I will take it apart and make a rigorous cleaning and inspection ! Thank you again!
I would ignore oil quantity recommendations and simply add oil till it is half way up the sight glass when turned off and level. I think you are overthinking this. Any decent vacuum pump oil should be good for this pump. I have noticed the pump making a metallic clicking sound as it starts to pull a vacuum, but then it quiets down as it nears 20 in/hg, for example. So it is quiet when operating open, and quiet when it is past 20 in/gh. I don't think this is a problem with the pump at all and just normal operation, but maybe yours makes a different noise. While you are right about restrictions in air line size and length, I don't think this matters at all in this case. The 12 cfm that your pump is rated at is basically in free flow... If you were sucking air from a room, it will flow that much... However, the amount of air that can possibly flow is obviously decreased when you decrease the amount of air... If you have a perfect vacuum, it doesn't matter what size pump and line you have, zero air will flow if there is zero air. I hope this makes sense. Though your english is very good, I assume that english is not your first language. I'm not totally sure what you mean about these not being air pumps. I think you are saying that it should only be used as a vacuum pump and that it should not be run without a restriction. I do not know what they specify as the correct oil, but I assume that it is SAE 30 that it ships with. I would like to try SAE 50 in mine as I sometimes run it for several hours and it does get quite hot.
Thank you very much for your direct assistance. I greatly appreciate it. Using the term air pump is to make a distinction from vacuum pump which produce negative pressure compare to positive pressure for air pump. Negative pressure is for measuring devise with relative differential scale like psig compare to psia. Pressure is a quantity always positive with 760 Torr(mmHg) being standard atmospheric pressure and 0 Torr pressure is difficult almost impossible to achieve on earth meaning a space without free molecule. The term air pump was also to point out your choice of using coiled compressed air hose to connect to vacuum chamber. ( that make me smiled). Using brand new clean garden hose pvc tubing of moderate length with 1/2in ID would provide you with a lot more efficient pumping with reduce pumping time, and lower ultimate chamber pressure. Oil rotary vane vacuum pump use oil mainly for sealing and reduce frictional wearing of vane. It is also important to have enough oil because without it heat cannot transfer from under vacuum internal component to external shell for cooling. Pump down process generate a lot of heat in the pressure range near atmospheric working harder and it shouldn't last for an extended period of time to prevent damage to vane. Vanes were originally built from Bakelite, and now from wearing resistant Nylon or for high professional grade pump from engineering plastic, but with operational temperature limit of polymer. Concerning my pump, it produce unsteady burst internal vibration that don't seem to be related to pressure but to temperature. I suspect issues with oil injection metering circuit. Any way don't seem normal operating sound. I have got the pump directly from VEVOR and I was hesitant to do internal investigation by myself without any service manual instruction instead to return the pump. But from your video it seem to me that by doing a pump exchange there a great chance that I will not receive a better quality pump but even a worse condition. Your video is giving enough internal details to provide me the guts and confidence to investigate inside the pump by myself. I will provide you feedback. Thank you again! Regards!
@@guylebrun8674 Okay, I understand. instead of "air pump" I would just use the terminology "compressor" and Vacuum pump. Yes, I understand that a perfect vacuum is impossible to achieve with one of these pumps and it takes very expensive laboratory units to get anywhere close to an actual vacuum. The term is used very loosely as the general population understand what you mean when you say "vacuum". I understand that a 1/2" hose allows for more flow, but the pump and my needs, do not require more flow. A larger hose is much more likely to collapse and has more volume, meaning the pump has to remove the air from the hose as well. Yes, sealing, cooling and lubrication are very important. I can also understand that the pump down time is where the pump generates the most heat, that makes sense. If the sound is heat related then that is worrisome. You can take it apart and look for damaged or improperly made pieces. A thicker oil could help with this. My pump does not have a oil pump of any sort .. it is a wet bath system / splash system. The pumps that I got were all from different sellers on Amazon. I have had really good luck with stuff directly from VEVOR.
Joel, thank you for this very informative video. I bought this same vac pump and it arrived today. So I thought I'd better watch a few videos on proper usage and I'm so glad I came across yours. I haven't yet switched it on but you've convinced me to check it first..thoroughly and to ease it in to usage with some unloaded cycles. Top notch video. I've subscribed to your channel. I'll update you if I find anything similar like bolts missing or extra pieces I'll have to watch the video again before attempting as there were a few timesaving and preparitory steps to note.
Thanks for the comment and subscribe ! It took me 4 pumps before I got one that worked.... hopefully you don't have to go through the same hassle. Others have noted that the camera angle is too wide and there's not a lot of detail... however, I believe if you have a decent level of mechanical ability you should be able to pull this off and be confident that it's not rusty or missing pieces. Good luck.
@@JoelArseneaultCZcams yes I have opened a motorbike engine and swapped in a higher ratio 6th. So I'm confident. But careful. I also have an orange BAC brand vacuum pump. Only 1 CFM but new from china. Perhaps I'll look at that too before running it
Yes you did respond.. gear ratio in top wasn't tall enough for open road so I retrofitted from newer model 7% more in 6th. Anyway thanks for the info. Surprising that you had 4 before you got a good one. Guess they're cheap for a reason. I only spent 169AUD but that was without oil.. so I'll now have to seek out some SAE 20 vac pump oil.
Thanks for the video, now I have a pump almost like yours from the same company, if you want to use it for a long duration you might want to check the power cord, the one I got had a 20 AWG wire (0.75mm2) cord which will run a 1 hp motor but your running it over the max rating which is never a good thing, I just removed it and added a 12 AWG cord and now it runs great and you don't need to worry about it melting or catching on fire during a larger project.
That is a very small cord. Thanks for the heads up. I've been using mine quite a bit and haven't had any issues. I monitor the temp closely (of the pump and motor) Cheers.
Hey Joel, thanks for the video. Couple of notes: I have a reed valve lodged between the pump and motor, just like you did. It must be a shim. You should put it back. You are right about the ideal vacuum depending on your altitude and atmospheric pressure. My pump 2RS-3 also has several bolts missing. There is only one bolt in each layer except the last one. Recommend to order a few extra socket cap screws: M6x16 and M6x30. To prime the oil, you could just turn the fan at the back before applying power. No need to disassemble the pump.
I now have many many hours on this pump and have not had any issues, it has worked 100% I don't doubt that the valve was used as a shim, but I don't imagine that it was needed due to the design of these pumps, and the fact that I haven't had any issues seems to support that theory... but I do believe you are right... Perhaps they were trying to save money and didn't think they needed all of the bolts. That does seem foolish, but I wouldn't doubt it. I took my pump apart because I had purchased 3-4 that were all seized due to rust on the internals. I took this one apart to clean any rust off before trying to use it, to avoid damage. 👍
@@JoelArseneaultCZcams Wow you bought 4 pumps? Mine is also seizing unless I leave the bolts loose. I did clean the rust. I will install the missing bolts to apply even torque. I guess the QC inspector was asleep that week 😆 Thanks again.
@@kevinkassil6038 Yeah. I bought a pump and it was seized, so I sent it back, the next one was seized and I took it apart and it was filled with rust. Again the same thing with the 3rd one so on the 4th attempt (this one) I took it apart before ever trying to turn it on. I have a feeling that they are all being shipped from China in shipping containers and then stored until the point of sale... and that's why so many of them were rusty. This last one was the best of them and I had to wait longer for it as they were out of stock... I did run into an alignment issue with my pump when assembling it for the first time. I think I talk about it at or near the end of he video, but when I first assembled it, something didn't go right. I disassembled it and it worked fine the second time around. 👍
THANK YOU, THANK YOU!!! I live in Calgary too, and I can only get about 26 inHg as well. I was doing some head scratching and figured it just might be our altitude. And you confirmed it!! Thanks soooooooooooooo much!!!!!!!!!!! Joe
Yes. I had a few of these fail before getting this one. I haven't updated this video, but I now have several hours on this unit with no issues whatsoever.
Wow... this is crazy... This is Joel, currently logged into my new channel, and I just started working with the company who I bought this pump from ... I had totally forgotten that it was from VEVOR ... I purchased it from amazon, but it is a VEVOR product.... I just finished editing the video where I announce to the world that I'm partnering with VEVOR, haha. I know you didn't ask for this story, haha... sorry.
Cant believe those assemblies aren't doweled together for perfect alignment. And paper towels leave behind tons of small fibers. I'd clean with solvent and blow dry.
I use the shortest and widest vacuum lines because flow restrictions are a big problem in vacuum flow. We are pumping almost nothing near a vacuum so we need to increase chance of atoms being trapped in pump vanes.
Hey, thanks for the comment. I respectfully don't agree with what you are saying, though. I may be wrong, but my thoughts are this. Resistance to flow is based on the number of molecules you are trying to pass through a given space. By either reducing the amount of fluid / air / molecules or increasing the size of the space, you reduce the resistance. This would mean that as the vacuum increases / pressure drops the resistance to flow would decrease and the remaining lonely molecules would have an easier time to make their way out. This can be witnessed at the exhaust port of the vacuum pump. If you have it plugged when you turn it on, it will pop the plug out quite energetically as the plug is causing a restriction to the flow ... Once you have 25 i/hg pulled, you can put the plug back in and it will not pop out violently - as it is not causing a restriction. I have been using 1/4 hose on the vacuum side of my parts, that I am infusing, and haven't had any vacuum issues. I have used 3/8 hose for the inlet (epoxy in) side to reduce resistance in that case. I'm pretty sure what I'm saying is correct, but maybe my thinking is flawed.
@@JoelArseneaultCZcamsit does matter, but probably not for the levels of vacuum and speeds needed for casting. If you look at turbomolecular pumps and high vacuum gear they do use the large inlets and such like as the stuff they are pumping stops looking like a fluid and starts looking like a bunch of particles doing their own thing just bouncing off the walls
the shim was in mine too so I put it back in the right place .I don't know the reason for the shim but it was at the bottom bolt so I put it back and it works fine.mine had only 2 bolts.
I assume that they are using the shim to "correct" the alignment along the axis of the rotors and housings, but mine seemed to be doing more harm than good. To check this alignment, I believe you would have to accurately measure the distance between the housing along the axis, and if you wanted to be sure that it wasn't just a flaw in the bore or on the rotor you would then have to rotate, move position on the bore and remeasure. PS. I have used mine now for a few hours and haven't had any issues with vacuum or with the oil getting dirty, so I have to assume that it is okay. The actual parts that make contact have a LOT of room for error as the vane seals float in the rotors 👍
I think I probably just have bad luck and got all of the bad ones they make that year, haha. I actually just got a tubing bender from VEVOR and it looks great... haven't tried it yet.
Thank God for you my friend. I am going through the same thing with a Vevor pump I ordered from eBay (2 stage 5 CFM 1/2 Horse Power) It came saturated with oil just like yours and the motor is locked up. I am going to be sending a link to the seller of your Part 1 so he will know what mine arrived like. Hopefully they will replace the one I received and then I will definitely take mine apart and check before using and this video will aid in my success. I love how thorough you are in explanation. I enjoy having something to take apart and try and fix from time to time, so this will (it looks like) be very interesting indeed to take apart, clean and put back together. I was wondering as to the cleaning you kept mentioning through-out the video... I kept an eye on your WD-40 can to see if you had used it for cleaning, but noticed it never really seemed to change in location or it's placement (label of can always pointed in same direction), so was wondering if you used any WD-40 or any other solvents for cleaning the parts (or even used a fine sand paper for cleaning any rust), or was you just using only paper towels for cleaning. I would think that using WD would be a good way to clean parts, but would not want to use something that may cause damage to the vacuum pump later on (thanks for your input about cleaning solution or none)... Thanks again for taking the time to put this together and just know that not only did I like this video but you now have a new subscriber as well because anyone who puts this much effort and care in creating content to help someone in need - definitely deserves much gratitude and appreciation, and I am appreciating you very much sir - thank you...
Hello Steven and thanks for the comment / question. This pump had very little rust on it, so just used paper towel for the cleaning and a razer blade to scratch off any rust. Rust can cause two problems. 1, being on contact surfaces and obviously causing damage, but also 2. mixing in with the oil and causing damage to the whole unit. If you have more rust, you could soak the parts in some WD40, or something similar, but make sure that you clean them well afterwards. Vacuum pump oil needs to be used in these pumps or you will struggle to pull a vacuum, as "normal" oil releases glasses when you start to pull a vacuum. Good luck with Ebay and with working on it if you get another one.
@@JoelArseneaultCZcams Thank you Joel so much for the reply. I thank you for your advice and will keep what you said in mind about using WD-40 (Just make sure it is ALL removed so as to not contaminate the vacuum pump oil). I found vacuum pump oil at tractor supply and am not sure it would be good for this as it is for dairy farms and their milking vacuum pumps... I am having a hard time finding vacuum pump oil for the HVAC pumps hmmm, any suggestions?. I am still waiting on the eBay seller to get back with me with replacing this locked pump. If I have to take this apart, I think it will be fun using this situation for creating my first repair video on CZcams and pointing viewers to your channel for the inspiration, and who knows it may be a start of something. I love tinkering and taking things apart, troubleshooting and fixing, but it is frustrating to buy something and have to take it apart and repair it out of the box... As a kid I took things apart just to see what made them work and never actually put anything back together, but now I take things apart to find a way to fix them and thought that may be a great idea for a CZcams channel...
@@Reflections2013 I always took things apart as a kid too. My father was a mechanic, so later on I followed him around and learned a lot of stuff, and got put to work. I would think that any vacuum pump oil should be fine. If you do a little reading on what vacuum pump oil is, it might put your mind at ease. It has something to do with the refining process and removing sulfur .... I believe ... either way, they basically refine it a few more steps on top of "normal" oil Normal engine oil would not hurt your pump. It would simply not allow you to pull a complete vacuum and might make you think that there was something wrong with the pump. Not sure what your location is, but I have been able to find pump oil on amazon and a few places online, and I am in Canada ... we usually have limited choices compared to the US. If you are thinking about making some youtube videos, this would be a good place to start, for sure. You don't have to do it as a "how to". lots of people like videos that they can relate to, and someone who doesn't have experience just trying to sort something out could be popular. Good luck 👍
@@JoelArseneaultCZcams Thanks for another great response Joel. Wow - interesting - my Dad was also a mechanic, and I think allot that I learned was from watching him. I also would like to update my result with eBay. They decided to refund my money and have me return the damaged pump. I have decided to try buy another pump from them in a week or so and try again and just maybe my 2nd pump will turn out like your 4th (one could only hope right??). Thanks for the suggestions on where to look - BUT I went to my local Hardware store and they told me ---- "What is vacuum pump oil???"... LOL so you can imagine I didn't find any there. I went to a local HVAC center, and after talking with them for a few moments, they not only went in back and found a quart of oil that they had on hand and sold it to me, but they was at that time needing to make a order for more oil and added (at my request) 2 gallons of premium vacuum pump oil to their order. I will be going Monday to pick it up. They were super nice people to talk too. So I said all that to say this... Anyone that may be looking for Vacuum Pump Oil and are having a hard time finding it - try to find an HVAC center in your area, walk in, explain your situation and they may very well be able to sell you what you need. Thanks again Joel, you have been very helpful and kind and it is appreciated. I also want to thank you for the suggestion on a channel (type of channel). I really like that approach... Everyone needs someone they can relate too and - so do I, and I definitely relate to you for sure so thanks for what you do my friend, your helping allot of people...
I have the same style pump. Do you know of anyway to make a cut out switch. To maintain 25hg. Ex cut in and vacuum to 25 then cut out and if it goes to 20 cut back in and cut out at 25 again.
I've looked into this before and you can buy a "Adjustable Vacuum Negative Air Pressure Switch". I found them on aliexpress. I've never done it, but you would wire this into your power cord (basically) and it would kill the power to the pump at the desired pressure. I highly doubt that you can set when it turns back on, but it would have a preset of a few hg before restarting. The other route you could take, that would take a lot more ... knowledge / tinkering, is to use an arduino (programmable circuit board) to trigger relays and program in you high and low levels. You would need a pressure sensor, a relay and arduino.... I can't help you with details on that, but there are plenty of forums.
Informative video. Do they make parts for vacuum pumps? I have a Dayton 7 CFM. It runs for a little bit and then stops and sounds like it locks up. I took it apart and then turned the motor on, it sounds fine.
I have gone on a search looking for parts in the past and didn't have much luck. I feel like there's probably a place where you can get rebuild kits, but I have not found it. Running for a while and stopping sounds like perhaps a clearance or alignment issue. Once the pump gets hot, it may be binding up. New parts may not solve this. It may just need careful assembly... but it's hard to say for sure.
I have never had one apart, but i just had a quick look at the part and a parts diagram. It looks like the end of the valve assy has a groove in it that is easier for a retaining clip or some sort of retaining screw. They do not show either of these things in the diagram... You may be able to access this by removing the inlet fitting on top, but I'm guessing you have to take the whole thing apart. The retainer may be accessible if you remove the pump assembly from the motor.
Amazing work! I'm shocked this doesn't have more views. Of course a 1hp vacuum pump is better at decreasing pressure, and moving air, but why does 1 hp make you more comfortable running it for long periods, than one rated with less power? You totally could be right, but I don't understand why that'd be.
Thanks for your comment. Running a bigger pump with more power has a few advantages. 1 is that it is able to pull a vacuum more quickly and maintain a vacuum if there's a small leak. It can also run under higher load for a longer period without stressing it out.
Hiya, thank you for taking your time to make this, I'll make sure to clean the one out that I just purchased. However what oil/oil specification do you use on these pumps? Also how did you go about removing rust?
You need to use proper compressor pump oil. Lots of times "special oil" is just a marketing thing, but this is legit. The quick explanation is that normal oil has a lot of stuff in it that will offgas and this would not allow the pump to pull a vacuum. The proper oil does not foam or offgas at low pressures, and this makes it possible to pull a better vacuum. If you have rust, I use scotch brite when I can. It will remove rust pretty well and isn't too aggressive.
That's not normal. I have run mine for hours without overheating. Although ... I'm not sure about the science, but if you have air leaks I believe you are working the pump harder than if you have a seal and it is achieving close to 25 inches of mercury, for example... These motors are enclosed and do run hot. Make sure that the fan on the end of your motor is spinning and not damaged. Make sure that the end of the motor is not blocked and that it is not in an enclosed space. If you can't solve the heating problem, you could loop copper pipe around the motor and circulate water with a pump, to water cool it.
This is an interesting idea...Not trying to pick on you by responding to your comments... I'm really trying to wrap my head around it and it seems backwards. Cold air is more dense and has more moisture. For this to work, you would have to cool and condense the air, pull the moisture out of the cool air and then allow it to enter the pump. On a closed system, simply cooling the air would condense it, but that would just create more work for your pump as your pump would then have to expand the air, and if you didn't remove the moisture it is still getting that moisture. Further, you can't trap moisture in a vacuum as the vapor point of water would stop this from happening... unless you used liquid nitrogen to keep it frozen. It is my understanding that even ice in a vacuum will offgas due to the vapor point, so I'm not sure how or if it is possible to remove water in this way. It seems to me that super heated air would be free of more impurities, like water and would also have more energy that would be easily extracted, and as the temperature dropped, the pressure would naturally drop. I may be missing something here, but it seems to me that heating the air before your pump inlet would drive off moisture and be the best solution.
Sorry I'm slightly confused, must've missed something... What causes cheap vacuum pumps to fail? Watched the other video (1st part) and saw your previous pumps were seriously defective with moisture corrosion. The reason they fail is b/c these cheap pumps are full of gak/grit. I've seen that on many other Chinese manufactured items, I think they don't believe in keeping things clean, they know well these aren't clean. Hopefully mine isn't ruined already, I'll be taking it apart for thorough cleaning.
Yes, this is part two, and in the first one I showed a lot of rust. In addition I took this working pump apart and found a combination of rust on pump surfaces from being shipped, grime / casting junk and debris left behind. I also found a missing bolt, so in some cases being assembled poorly.
Such a beautiful job! Thank you. Mmm. A thought. A question, rather. When does a rotary vane pump work hardest: (a) when pumping against ambient air or (b) when pumping against a vacuum? You seemed immediately to have acquiesced to the notion that (b) was the correct answer. And you even defined pump break-in and shut-down protocols predicated upon that intelligence. I won't dispute the correctness of your protocols, I merely deny their premise. That is, I claim that a rotary vane pump works harder when pumping against ambient air than when pumping against a high vacuum. Given that the pump runs at a nearly constant speed (which is probably pretty nearly true), the amount of gas that it expels will be proportional to the density of the gas that enters its pumping chamber. Indeed, in order to expel gas at a constant rate (which effectively equates to a constant rate of work) , the rotational velocity of the pump would have to increase inversely to the gas's density. But it doesn't. Upon considering the problem further, I believe that the answer turns upon asking the right question. I would claim that rotary vane pumps, once running, do very little work when pumping against a vacuum. Moreover, I claim that their capacity to generate a vacuum is limited -- not by the power of their motors -- but by the lack of gearing needed to increase their rotational velocities. However, during startup, rotary vane pumps have no rotational velocity. When pumping against ambient air, the pressure differential between the inside and outside gasses is small and nearly constant while the pump is rotating slowly. But when pumping against a high vacuum, the pressure differential essentially equals the ambient pressure. So the pump must produce a large, momentary torque in order to initiate the pumping process -- which is, I think, the rationale behind your startup protocol. Interestingly enough, compressors have a similar startup problem. A special valve is used to bleed off high-pressure gas from the compressor's compression chambers when the motor turns off. This prevents the compressor's motor from having to muster the torque needed to complete an already begun compression cycle during startup. Anyway. Your presentation was a tour-de-force of logic, self assurance, and gumption. You're the guy who went from knowing nothing about rotary vane pumps to suggesting how pump engineers might improve on their design (by using studs to ensure proper registration for the pump's component parts). Kudos!
Wow... You obviously put a LOT of thought into this. You are correct, I made a lot of assumptions about the workload on the pump ambient vs vacuum. I don't believe I have the cognitive ability (or time) to fully process what you are saying, but I do understand what you are getting at. If you have a syringe half full of liquid, with no visible air, block the end and pull on it, the amount of force required ramps up, but at a certain point the amount of force required quickly ramps back down. It makes for a very odd spring effect and I believe this is caused by what you are talking about. As for the compressor analogy, I am familiar with this release valve. I built a custom compressor and installed it in my attic. The valve releases pressure from the top of the piston and the lines leading to the tank check valve, so that the pump can spin up under atmospheric pressure. 👍 As for spinning the pump faster, I'm sure that would help to some extent, but ultimately (to my understanding) it is the lack of air molecules, close to a "perfect" vacuum that make this process difficult. If you were trying to empty a bathtub with a cup, at first it would go quickly, but once you have droplets the cup is no longer effective and a different tool is required. I don't think I explained myself very well, but I believe that the reason why the pump shouldn't be shut down under "load" is that the check valve system is not perfect in these pumps. My thought is that the atmospheric pressure will leak through the check valve putting a load on the pump veins. I suspect this is not good when the pump is really hot.
Interesting. I think that your cup analogiy is correct. At some point the density of the compressed gas (viz. the gas in the cup) becomes so low (ie. contains so few molecues) that it lacks the pressure needed to open and expel itself past the one-way reed valve.
@@bradalmond3618 I'm pretty sure you are entirely correct. I'd imagine though, that although the pump isn't working as hard under vacuum as ambient air, that the decrease in air molecules reduces the cooling. So I'd imagine a vacuum to be doing less work once it pulls the vacuum, but counterintuitively actually generate more heat (in the material of the motor itself due to friction), because the creation of the vacuum also decreases the cooling media itself, the air. It's probably this increase in heat, that makes people often assume it is doing more work.
It was too late for me to watch this video before I start to repair My cheap vacuum pump (which I bought for 15 USD in junk yard). My problem was gauge was always stuck at -0,9 bars. Never have any exprience with vacuum pump and gauge before. Whatever I watch at youtube everybody reach almost -1 bar at their gauge. But by this Video I learn that altitude of Ankara is 980meters Which cause my gauge to show maximum -0.9 bar. I really learn a lot by disassembling vacuum pump but it is too difficult to adjust the Vanes and layers. if you do that wrong, your pump won't work properly. if you have 2 stage and powerful vacuum pump, maybe you won't notice that your pump work decent as long as you test it . It may vacuum fully but may be much slower than original. That is why very, very carefully try to fix your vacuum pump. May be better don't touch it. :-D I learn it by hard way, too
Sorry to hear about your troubles. I'm not sure what you mean about being difficult to adjust the vanes and layers? I am a mechanic, but I didn't find anything difficult about the assembly of this pump. I did have a slight issue with alignment of the housings the first time I put it together, but once I knew I had to be careful, it was easy to correct. I'm curious what your problem was / is.
@@JoelArseneaultCZcams First of all I did not study mechanic and I have very limited knowledge. My pump is the lowest model on the market I guess, 1/4 HP motor and 1 stage 1.5 or 1.8 CFM.. when I am rebuilding it, I can easily fix the layers 2mm left, right, down and up. So it is all up to me. It will still work but not at the best .if I do any mistake system shows me the result immediately ! WHY? because I have super weak motor + 1 stage vanes. NO backup vanes, not big power. Even the torque which you use to fix the bolds plays Hughes roles at my pump. But you are lucky you have 1/2 HP motor + 2 stage vanes + your pump looks more decent than mines. so even if you do a bad alignment or adjustment when you rebuid the system. it will still vacuum perfectly. Why, because 2 stage support to each others mistakes + 1/2 HP support them with big Power. But with bad allignment you may not reach 5CFM any more may be much less.After you rebuild it, even if it vacuums fully it may not be working at promised speed. May be I am totally wrong too. But "If it works... don't touch it" rules is the best. To be honest, I would still touch it. It is fun :-D I also notice that more oil I add, better Vacuum I get . Pump that I have has oil window which has mark at the middle says " oil level" , no max or min marks. I add the oil up to 4/5 and vacuum gets better. I think oil is a great sealer. That seal the vanes very well. I use SAE 30 oil. not something expensive.
I don't know whether to trust this brand or not, on their website, there's not one negative review of this brand, compared to all the negative reviews found on amazon, it seems like, they filtered the reviews on their website to show positive reviews only
I have had really good luck with mine and have now used it a lot... It took forever for me to get one that was worth keeping due to the rust, but this one is holding up really well... no problems at all.
Do you by chance have a parts list for this pump? I have a similar one and tore it down to rebuild the vacuum pump portion (covered in schmutz). In the process I've lost one of the tiny reeds you're talking about at 29:53 in your video. I've reached out to the manufacture (Vivohomes) who says they don't have a parts list and I should contact the seller (Amazon) which I did. After 2 cycles of run-around they also don't have a parts list. Great presentation on the product!
Hey, sorry but I don't have a parts list for it either. I did a bunch of searching online when I posted this video and was able to find some stuff, but I don't remember how or where.
Hey man, very helpful video! I have the exact same pump as you and I’m trying to do a similar thing with the hose hook up. I need to buy the barb to thread fitting that attaches onto the inlet of the pump. Do you know the specs for the thread of that part? I see many different parts with NPT but I dont think those threads are NPT I thought they were more like straight threads. If you know the part you bought that would be a huge help!
It took me a few minutes to figure out what part you were talking about... I have a bad memory sometimes. I ended up going to a local shop called "greenline hose and fittings" and brought the fittings that I wanted to adapt from / to and they sold me the part. I forget what it is called, but it is not NPT. I spent a whole lot of time trying to figure this out on my own, but the pros knew what to do immediately.
Fantastic stuff! Can I ask how has the pump performed over the last ten months since this video. I'm looking to buy a kit (with chamber) and currently doing research.
I have no idea. I've had a few people ask that question. I will pin this question to the top and hopefully someone out there knows, and will share the info with us.
I opened the 2RS3 and it. Looked different inside. I think they've redesigned the pump. The two blocks for 1st and second stage look much deeper/thicker and the reed valves have a faucet mesh on top with what appear to be adjustment screws as they sit proud of the surface.. Btw they only put a small amount of oil... Say 10-20mls. I was going to find an iso32 oil and use that. Fan feels smooth but firm. All external parts of pump look free of rust. What little oil that's in the big end casing has fine black in the bottom with the rest of the oil above it honey colour. Not sure why they didn't include oil bottle in the foam recess but perhaps I got a cheaper deal. The pump is identical to yours on the outside but inside looks different. Yours seems to have more blocks that are thinner. I'd send you a pic if I could figure how on this thread .
Interesting. The deeper vien sections would indicate that it is a higher volume pump. It sounds like overall they have made it a better pump 👍 I'm really happy with mine so far and have a lot of hours on it, so hopefully yours works well as well. Yes, I believe that black stuff at the bottom is stuff from the casting not being cleaned really well before assembly. It would get stirred up into the oil if you ran it fro long, and I can't imagine that would be good for anything. Perhaps someone already had your pump and removed the oil. I think it would be in their best interest to include the oil, as if they don't, they will get a LOT of people running them without oil. Even with the oil in the box and a big yellow note telling people there isn't any oil in the pump, people still run them and seize them... and then return them.
@@JoelArseneaultCZcams I'm running it for 15 mins with inlets and outlet cap open. With the required 370mls of oil and it's looking clean through window. Temperature with temp gun shows 47C after 15 mins from 25C ambient temp at start. Will drain oil just to be sure as I got 5 litres of good quality penrite iso 32 vac pump oil for $32 AUD delivered.
It goes down to only 25 Hg? That is bad. Even cheapest vacuum pump is supposed to achieve 99% vacuum or 29.6 Hg. Original spec for this pump is probably 99% vacuum, so something is still not working properly.
It's a little more complicated than that. Vacuum pressure is simply the absence of air in a container, but the actual pressure is supplied by atmospheric pressure. You may be able to get 30 Hg below seal level if barometric pressure is really high, but I am at almost 4000 ft, so the max I can get here, on most days, is 25 or 26. I used it this weekend, it was a little cool and damp and it had no trouble getting to 26.5 Hg. Again, you are removing air from something, and the pressure is supplied by the surrounding air pressure. This is why there is a max that can be reached.
Pump specifications are for capped intake with no flow. Most pump manufacturer produce pumping curve pressure vs flow. Also mechanical Bourdon gauge give what is call gauge pressure related differential to atmospheric pressure. Thermal gauge like thermocouple and Pirani gauge type give you absolute pressure reading not relate to atmospheric pressure.
I do not know much about these motors. I believe they are induction motors and the most common failure would be the capacitor. That being said, they are very reliable and I would check everything else before I assume that the motor is the problem. Some of these have a breaker, it will likely also have a thermal / overheat switch and a power switch. If you can or could hear it hum, that could mean that something is seized causing the motor not to turn, or that you have a bad capacitor. You should be able to turn the motor over easily by turning the fan with your fingers. If not, something is probably stuck.
Another common problem with single-phase AC induction motors is their capacitor either wrongly dimensioned, or failed. I see this almost every time I get to investigate a motor not starting and tripping the circuit breakers. The capacitor is hooked up in series with the auxiliary winding, and they are wired in parallel to the main winding. The capacitor shifts the phase and buildup of the magnetic field by 90° in order to force the rotor to spin in a desired direction, mostly clockwise by industry standard. Check the overall condition of your capacitor and capacity with the help of a multimeter which has a capacitor measuring function.
Please I need your help. I currently want to build a system, that allows hot steam to enter and leave a vacuum while maintaining a specific pressure. I know how to keep the temperature in the system constant at 200 degrees Celsius. I also know how to attend the initial desired pressure. The problem now is how do I make pass hot steam through this system, and allowing the steam to escape the system without changing the pressure of the system? What device(s) could be used to achieve this desire? Thanks for helping out guys .
I'm not sure, but this is a very complex problem. In some ways, it is somewhat impossible, depending on what you mean by vacuum. It is also impossible depending on how accurate your temperature needs to be regulated. Introducing steam will increase the pressure, you are also introducing water, and I assume that the water, in a near vacuum, will off gas and cause both cooling and loss of vacuum. Depending on the amount of steam you would need a massive vacuum pump to maintain near vacuum, and a very powerful heater to maintain heat. Pulling the water out becomes another big problem that I'm not sure how to fix, but I do know that you can't allow this to get to your pump or it will cause issues very quickly.
@@JoelArseneaultCZcams, this just might get the job done...... www.amazon.com/BLCH-Compressed-Regulator-Lubricator-Separator/dp/B09MFBF7KK/ref=sxin_16_pa_sp_search_thematic_sspa?content-id=amzn1.sym.ce09a34f-b7c0-4019-9345-c7ca21632dd6%3Aamzn1.sym.ce09a34f-b7c0-4019-9345-c7ca21632dd6&crid=12ADOOV6K8CBE&cv_ct_cx=compressor+water+trap+with+regulator&keywords=compressor+water+trap+with+regulator&pd_rd_i=B09MFBF7KK&pd_rd_r=80d8ff0b-3b01-49f2-af26-722dd9e847ea&pd_rd_w=UcmEy&pd_rd_wg=iPxw8&pf_rd_p=ce09a34f-b7c0-4019-9345-c7ca21632dd6&pf_rd_r=WEEDQJFYXQSB58AW8162&qid=1686104476&sbo=RZvfv%2F%2FHxDF%2BO5021pAnSA%3D%3D&sprefix=compressor+water+trap%2Caps%2C99&sr=1-3-f198e6a3-f8ba-40fc-adb1-ef5348fd130e-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExSFo5SzZSNDQzTTRMJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNzc2NzU2MUk2RTJXUzZWRFBFTiZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwOTI4NzkzMUdDM0tONEsyMzhKJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3Bfc2VhcmNoX3RoZW1hdGljJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
@Joel Arseneault Hi Joel, do you know of a good resource for getting replacement parts? The plastic pieces inside the vanes are what I'm hoping to find. One of mine wore out and came loose inside, only to seize the vacuum up completely. Thanks for the great vid!
@@JoelArseneaultCZcams any idea what material the vanes are made of? I'm having several 3D printed. I've found a source for the small compression springs as well.
Oh man please change the location of your camera other than your head I getting dizzy I can’t keep watching sorry tried to put it in the stand next to you which will be more study focusing for the viewers thanks
Haha... agreed. I'm not sure why I did this... it may have been so that I could work hands free without having the camera in my way. I haven't done this before or after, that I am aware of... Other than bike or jetski riding content.
Look at 34:41 and the answer is there. The "red screw" is the fill plug. I used a different hole to add oil, as it is easier. Both of these holes go to the same area.
Thanks for the comment ! Thanks for the input ! There was lot of information to convey, so though you are probably right, I think it's the best way to go about it.
Thx for the "Vac Pump Tear Down" Audio (you must really like to hear yourself) but a functional Video would have been 3X more helpful as your De-zoomed widefield "fisheye"
I’ve had this comment twice now. If I ever make a video like this again, I will keep that in mind. I’m used to shooting wide angle for action shots and to ensure I actually capture something. I didn’t consider people would want to watch this as a detailed video because there are so many different versions of this pump and I’m not an expert… this is my first (one of my first ?) pump tear downs. I would assume the general info would be enough, otherwise, maybe the viewer shouldn’t be tearing a pump down 🤷♂️
This top-down view isn't doing you any favors, especially with the extreme wide-angle lens. Everything is too small and the angle makes it very hard to see any detail, even on a 32" PC monitor. I can't help but feel sorry for the people viewing this on mobile devices.
Thanks for your input. I will keep this in mind if I do a video like this again. I believe the reasons I shot wide angle is because 1. I have it as the default (this is not normally what I shoot) 2. it leaves much more room for error with the part still being in frame if my angle isn't quite right and then I move around. 3. As I believe I mentioned in the video, this was not meant to be specific to this pump, just vacuum pumps in general. If I made a detailed video, it would very likely mislead or confuse people who have a slightly different pump.
I've had this comment a few times. There are lots of different pumps and even pumps of this same model (over time) have changed and have more, less and different pieces, so a detailed, close up video would likely add more confusion than it would solve. If you have basic mechanical abilities you should have no problem taking this apart and putting it back together. (assuming that is your goal). There's really not much to it once you get in there. I would suggest either shooting a video of your disassembly or taking photos at each step. This was my first time ever taking one of these pumps apart.
😂 I'm sorry you feel that way... Interesting, most of the other comments are positive. Are you working on your pump and need something more detailed, or just looking for something more cinematic ?
@@JoelArseneaultCZcams Nice dude. I should clean mine. But I did notice that it's a different model so it's probably perfect inside. It says CHINA on the box after all. Not to mention it looks exactly same as all the others but like... different model number ya know? so for sure these are different.... 😑😑 also glad I got oil. I got the pump today and the bottles they sent with it look like water that they just put in bottles themselves.
@@YoureNotSoSmartBro Haha... there are a lot of little differences. Some with motor power, some with pump volume / one stage vs two stage, and then others that make no difference at all like a different filler cap, carry handle etc. Most good vacuum pump oil is clear and quite thin, so I wouldn't necessarily count it out, but it's always good to have more.
The rubber cap at the top of vacuum gauge is the fill port for the glycerine. There is no adjustment under the cap. You do indeed have to vent this type of gauge after installation or any elevation change in order to get accurate readings, and even temperature changes will cause gross errors. Some gauges have a manual vent valve incorporated into the rubber cap to facilitate this, and some manufacturers will even recommend leaving the vent open if the gauge is installed in a permanent upright position.
Thanks for that info in such detail. I have had someone say something about venting for elevation, but this is great info 👍 I will pin it to the top.
@@JoelArseneaultCZcams thanks bud I just notice that is has a snap ring at the end . All I need to do is remove the motor from pump assembly. Thanks again
Thanks for the very thorough walkthrough. I have the same pump. Just a couple of comments: 1) Mine was missing exactly the same screw in exactly the same place. Maybe they left it out on purpose, but I replaced it like you did and it seems to run fine. 2) The reed valve screws had thread lock compound residue on them, so I used Loctite blue when reassembling. 3) Mine was gritty inside as well, so disassembling and cleaning is definitely a good idea for these pumps. 4) The chart showing vacuum loss with increasing elevation alone was worth watching the video. Cheers!
Thanks for the detailed comment ! I have used mine for many many hours now 100% trouble free.... only thing that happens is I forget the vent plug in and it scares the crap out of me when it pops out with a bang, haha.
The rubber plug on the top of the gauge lets you set the pressure it is referencing. If you remove it or cut the nipple off it will reference atmosphere. Otherwise it will reference the last pressure it was removed at.
Thanks ! I had suspected something like that. Great to hear an actual explanation.
That's great information. I appreciate the time and detail you put in this. I just bought a Vevo home to stage vacuum pump model VP 245. Haven't taken it apart yet but this will still be very helpful.
I just used mine yesterday... still working perfectly. I've put many many hours on it.
Perfect timing 😁 I'm currently researching for a pump & chamber for resin work, these 2 videos help a lot, thanks.👍
Awesome 👏 I like when my videos help someone 👍👍 good luck.
@@JoelArseneaultCZcams I have a pump that needs to be rebuilt/cleaned, and I was also considering buying a pump and chamber setup on Amazon for around 200 bucks--and I was wondeirng--did you link where you bought your setup? Thanks, -sb
@@sbalger Hello. I didn't link it. They change availability very quickly and I had to purchase a few pumps before getting a good one. I believe I purchased 4 and returned the first 3, as they were way too rusty inside.
I got them all from sellers on Amazon, but you can get the same one from a company called Venvor. I believe they ship directly ( here in Canada )
@@JoelArseneaultCZcams I will check it out, thank you!
Very interesting and on right timing video for me. I bought a VEVOR 2 stage 12CFM (VP280) 2 weeks ago. Received it in very well condition, not flooded from oil in packaging and not seized. My first interrogation have been how much oil to put in because using the quantity as on the side label seem too much an this model don't have level mark on or near sight glass. I have poor oil to mid high level on the sight glass and run the pump for few hours with intake capped to warm it up. The pump initially produce gentle soft sound but as it become hot it start to produce a rattling noise. When the pump become hot the oil level is over the sight glass. I have tried to used less oil but rattling noise remain , but rattling reduce when the oil level is mid height when pump is running and hot. It seem to be related to oil viscosity. Oil was not included in the package and I am using high vacuum rated oil from Amazon Robinar Premium vacuum pump oil. Your video is giving me the kick to take the pump apart, but I am afraid not to be able find and solve the issue without directive.
Further more, interrogation concerning piping diameter and length from pump to chamber is very important not to choke and limit flow. I rather to breathe through a snorkel than through a straw. Pipe conductance in viscous regime (Couette flow), the ability to let air flow goes as diameter to forth power (D^4) and inversely proportional to the length. So short and larger diameter as possible is always the best. As a rule of thumb, conductance should be ten time that of the pump. Conductance is also function of pressure and decrease with the pressure. Larger diameter help to keep the flow in viscous regime because as the pressure decrease flow become in molecular regime and conductance fall a lot to diameter square (D^2)
Also, mechanical pumping speed must be match with chamber volume. These pump are not air pump and should not at atmospheric pressure for an extended period of time. Most pump manufacturer usually specify the maximum chamber volume.
Finally, mechanical Bourdon type gauge are not very precise and thermal type gauge are highly more precise and reliable.
What type of oil come with the pump? I would like to run it with specified oil before taking it apart.
Good and valuable video, I will take it apart and make a rigorous cleaning and inspection !
Thank you again!
I would ignore oil quantity recommendations and simply add oil till it is half way up the sight glass when turned off and level. I think you are overthinking this. Any decent vacuum pump oil should be good for this pump.
I have noticed the pump making a metallic clicking sound as it starts to pull a vacuum, but then it quiets down as it nears 20 in/hg, for example. So it is quiet when operating open, and quiet when it is past 20 in/gh. I don't think this is a problem with the pump at all and just normal operation, but maybe yours makes a different noise.
While you are right about restrictions in air line size and length, I don't think this matters at all in this case. The 12 cfm that your pump is rated at is basically in free flow... If you were sucking air from a room, it will flow that much... However, the amount of air that can possibly flow is obviously decreased when you decrease the amount of air... If you have a perfect vacuum, it doesn't matter what size pump and line you have, zero air will flow if there is zero air. I hope this makes sense.
Though your english is very good, I assume that english is not your first language. I'm not totally sure what you mean about these not being air pumps. I think you are saying that it should only be used as a vacuum pump and that it should not be run without a restriction.
I do not know what they specify as the correct oil, but I assume that it is SAE 30 that it ships with. I would like to try SAE 50 in mine as I sometimes run it for several hours and it does get quite hot.
Thank you very much for your direct assistance. I greatly appreciate it. Using the term air pump is to make a distinction from vacuum pump which produce negative pressure compare to positive pressure for air pump. Negative pressure is for measuring devise with relative differential scale like psig compare to psia. Pressure is a quantity always positive with 760 Torr(mmHg) being standard atmospheric pressure and 0 Torr pressure is difficult almost impossible to achieve on earth meaning a space without free molecule. The term air pump was also to point out your choice of using coiled compressed air hose to connect to vacuum chamber. ( that make me smiled). Using brand new clean garden hose pvc tubing of moderate length with 1/2in ID would provide you with a lot more efficient pumping with reduce pumping time, and lower ultimate chamber pressure.
Oil rotary vane vacuum pump use oil mainly for sealing and reduce frictional wearing of vane. It is also important to have enough oil because without it heat cannot transfer from under vacuum internal component to external shell for cooling. Pump down process generate a lot of heat in the pressure range near atmospheric working harder and it shouldn't last for an extended period of time to prevent damage to vane. Vanes were originally built from Bakelite, and now from wearing resistant Nylon or for high professional grade pump from engineering plastic, but with operational temperature limit of polymer.
Concerning my pump, it produce unsteady burst internal vibration that don't seem to be related to pressure but to temperature. I suspect issues with oil injection metering circuit. Any way don't seem normal operating sound. I have got the pump directly from VEVOR and I was hesitant to do internal investigation by myself without any service manual instruction instead to return the pump. But from your video it seem to me that by doing a pump exchange there a great chance that I will not receive a better quality pump but even a worse condition. Your video is giving enough internal details to provide me the guts and confidence to investigate inside the pump by myself. I will provide you feedback.
Thank you again!
Regards!
@@guylebrun8674 Okay, I understand. instead of "air pump" I would just use the terminology "compressor" and Vacuum pump.
Yes, I understand that a perfect vacuum is impossible to achieve with one of these pumps and it takes very expensive laboratory units to get anywhere close to an actual vacuum. The term is used very loosely as the general population understand what you mean when you say "vacuum".
I understand that a 1/2" hose allows for more flow, but the pump and my needs, do not require more flow. A larger hose is much more likely to collapse and has more volume, meaning the pump has to remove the air from the hose as well.
Yes, sealing, cooling and lubrication are very important. I can also understand that the pump down time is where the pump generates the most heat, that makes sense.
If the sound is heat related then that is worrisome. You can take it apart and look for damaged or improperly made pieces. A thicker oil could help with this. My pump does not have a oil pump of any sort .. it is a wet bath system / splash system.
The pumps that I got were all from different sellers on Amazon. I have had really good luck with stuff directly from VEVOR.
Joel, thank you for this very informative video.
I bought this same vac pump and it arrived today. So I thought I'd better watch a few videos on proper usage and I'm so glad I came across yours. I haven't yet switched it on but you've convinced me to check it first..thoroughly and to ease it in to usage with some unloaded cycles.
Top notch video.
I've subscribed to your channel.
I'll update you if I find anything similar like bolts missing or extra pieces
I'll have to watch the video again before attempting as there were a few timesaving and preparitory steps to note.
Thanks for the comment and subscribe ! It took me 4 pumps before I got one that worked.... hopefully you don't have to go through the same hassle. Others have noted that the camera angle is too wide and there's not a lot of detail... however, I believe if you have a decent level of mechanical ability you should be able to pull this off and be confident that it's not rusty or missing pieces.
Good luck.
@@JoelArseneaultCZcams yes I have opened a motorbike engine and swapped in a higher ratio 6th. So I'm confident. But careful.
I also have an orange BAC brand vacuum pump. Only 1 CFM but new from china.
Perhaps I'll look at that too before running it
@@rodneyalan6441 You should have no issues, haha. I've had a few motorcycle transmissions apart before, but never to change a ratio... interesting.
Yes you did respond.. gear ratio in top wasn't tall enough for open road so I retrofitted from newer model 7% more in 6th.
Anyway thanks for the info. Surprising that you had 4 before you got a good one. Guess they're cheap for a reason. I only spent 169AUD but that was without oil.. so I'll now have to seek out some SAE 20 vac pump oil.
@@rodneyalan6441 Did you find any issues like Joel did when you took yours apart? Like missing bolts, extra hardware, rust, contamination?
Thanks for the video, now I have a pump almost like yours from the same company, if you want to use it for a long duration you might want to check the power cord, the one I got had a 20 AWG wire (0.75mm2) cord which will run a 1 hp motor but your running it over the max rating which is never a good thing, I just removed it and added a 12 AWG cord and now it runs great and you don't need to worry about it melting or catching on fire during a larger project.
That is a very small cord. Thanks for the heads up. I've been using mine quite a bit and haven't had any issues. I monitor the temp closely (of the pump and motor) Cheers.
Hey Joel, thanks for the video. Couple of notes:
I have a reed valve lodged between the pump and motor, just like you did. It must be a shim. You should put it back.
You are right about the ideal vacuum depending on your altitude and atmospheric pressure.
My pump 2RS-3 also has several bolts missing. There is only one bolt in each layer except the last one. Recommend to order a few extra socket cap screws: M6x16 and M6x30.
To prime the oil, you could just turn the fan at the back before applying power. No need to disassemble the pump.
I now have many many hours on this pump and have not had any issues, it has worked 100% I don't doubt that the valve was used as a shim, but I don't imagine that it was needed due to the design of these pumps, and the fact that I haven't had any issues seems to support that theory... but I do believe you are right...
Perhaps they were trying to save money and didn't think they needed all of the bolts. That does seem foolish, but I wouldn't doubt it. I took my pump apart because I had purchased 3-4 that were all seized due to rust on the internals. I took this one apart to clean any rust off before trying to use it, to avoid damage. 👍
@@JoelArseneaultCZcams Wow you bought 4 pumps? Mine is also seizing unless I leave the bolts loose. I did clean the rust. I will install the missing bolts to apply even torque. I guess the QC inspector was asleep that week 😆 Thanks again.
@@kevinkassil6038 Yeah. I bought a pump and it was seized, so I sent it back, the next one was seized and I took it apart and it was filled with rust. Again the same thing with the 3rd one so on the 4th attempt (this one) I took it apart before ever trying to turn it on.
I have a feeling that they are all being shipped from China in shipping containers and then stored until the point of sale... and that's why so many of them were rusty. This last one was the best of them and I had to wait longer for it as they were out of stock...
I did run into an alignment issue with my pump when assembling it for the first time. I think I talk about it at or near the end of he video, but when I first assembled it, something didn't go right. I disassembled it and it worked fine the second time around. 👍
THANK YOU, THANK YOU!!! I live in Calgary too, and I can only get about 26 inHg as well.
I was doing some head scratching and figured it just might be our altitude. And you confirmed it!!
Thanks soooooooooooooo much!!!!!!!!!!!
Joe
Haha. ! That's great, I'm glad I could help. I can't count how many times a random CZcams video helped me out as well.
Cheers!
Many thanks! We have one of these that crapped out suddenly, I'm suspecting contamination after seeing your video.
Yes. I had a few of these fail before getting this one. I haven't updated this video, but I now have several hours on this unit with no issues whatsoever.
Thanks! I could not find the oil inlet for the vane chamber. Now I know about the oil pump and found the opening.
Wow... this is crazy... This is Joel, currently logged into my new channel, and I just started working with the company who I bought this pump from ... I had totally forgotten that it was from VEVOR ... I purchased it from amazon, but it is a VEVOR product.... I just finished editing the video where I announce to the world that I'm partnering with VEVOR, haha.
I know you didn't ask for this story, haha... sorry.
Thank you for the nice video en explaination I've ordered the 1/3 hp version of yours en wil take it apart like you dit
Great ! I suggest taking photos or video so if you have issues you can refer to it. Cheers !
Cant believe those assemblies aren't doweled together for perfect alignment. And paper towels leave behind tons of small fibers. I'd clean with solvent and blow dry.
Yeah... it seems like they really should be. Probably cost them an extra two cents, so they opt out.
I use the shortest and widest vacuum lines because flow restrictions are a big problem in vacuum flow. We are pumping almost nothing near a vacuum so we need to increase chance of atoms being trapped in pump vanes.
Hey, thanks for the comment.
I respectfully don't agree with what you are saying, though. I may be wrong, but my thoughts are this.
Resistance to flow is based on the number of molecules you are trying to pass through a given space. By either reducing the amount of fluid / air / molecules or increasing the size of the space, you reduce the resistance. This would mean that as the vacuum increases / pressure drops the resistance to flow would decrease and the remaining lonely molecules would have an easier time to make their way out.
This can be witnessed at the exhaust port of the vacuum pump. If you have it plugged when you turn it on, it will pop the plug out quite energetically as the plug is causing a restriction to the flow ... Once you have 25 i/hg pulled, you can put the plug back in and it will not pop out violently - as it is not causing a restriction.
I have been using 1/4 hose on the vacuum side of my parts, that I am infusing, and haven't had any vacuum issues. I have used 3/8 hose for the inlet (epoxy in) side to reduce resistance in that case. I'm pretty sure what I'm saying is correct, but maybe my thinking is flawed.
@@JoelArseneaultCZcamsit does matter, but probably not for the levels of vacuum and speeds needed for casting.
If you look at turbomolecular pumps and high vacuum gear they do use the large inlets and such like as the stuff they are pumping stops looking like a fluid and starts looking like a bunch of particles doing their own thing just bouncing off the walls
the shim was in mine too so I put it back in the right place .I don't know the reason for the shim but it was at the bottom bolt so I put it back and it works fine.mine had only 2 bolts.
I assume that they are using the shim to "correct" the alignment along the axis of the rotors and housings, but mine seemed to be doing more harm than good.
To check this alignment, I believe you would have to accurately measure the distance between the housing along the axis, and if you wanted to be sure that it wasn't just a flaw in the bore or on the rotor you would then have to rotate, move position on the bore and remeasure.
PS. I have used mine now for a few hours and haven't had any issues with vacuum or with the oil getting dirty, so I have to assume that it is okay. The actual parts that make contact have a LOT of room for error as the vane seals float in the rotors 👍
Great video 😀
Thanks !
I just got a pump from VEVOR and it seems to made to a higher standard. No burrs or signs of corrosion inside. Maybe they've watched your video?
I think I probably just have bad luck and got all of the bad ones they make that year, haha. I actually just got a tubing bender from VEVOR and it looks great... haven't tried it yet.
Thank God for you my friend. I am going through the same thing with a Vevor pump I ordered from eBay (2 stage 5 CFM 1/2 Horse Power) It came saturated with oil just like yours and the motor is locked up. I am going to be sending a link to the seller of your Part 1 so he will know what mine arrived like. Hopefully they will replace the one I received and then I will definitely take mine apart and check before using and this video will aid in my success. I love how thorough you are in explanation. I enjoy having something to take apart and try and fix from time to time, so this will (it looks like) be very interesting indeed to take apart, clean and put back together. I was wondering as to the cleaning you kept mentioning through-out the video... I kept an eye on your WD-40 can to see if you had used it for cleaning, but noticed it never really seemed to change in location or it's placement (label of can always pointed in same direction), so was wondering if you used any WD-40 or any other solvents for cleaning the parts (or even used a fine sand paper for cleaning any rust), or was you just using only paper towels for cleaning. I would think that using WD would be a good way to clean parts, but would not want to use something that may cause damage to the vacuum pump later on (thanks for your input about cleaning solution or none)...
Thanks again for taking the time to put this together and just know that not only did I like this video but you now have a new subscriber as well because anyone who puts this much effort and care in creating content to help someone in need - definitely deserves much gratitude and appreciation, and I am appreciating you very much sir - thank you...
Hello Steven and thanks for the comment / question. This pump had very little rust on it, so just used paper towel for the cleaning and a razer blade to scratch off any rust. Rust can cause two problems. 1, being on contact surfaces and obviously causing damage, but also 2. mixing in with the oil and causing damage to the whole unit.
If you have more rust, you could soak the parts in some WD40, or something similar, but make sure that you clean them well afterwards. Vacuum pump oil needs to be used in these pumps or you will struggle to pull a vacuum, as "normal" oil releases glasses when you start to pull a vacuum.
Good luck with Ebay and with working on it if you get another one.
@@JoelArseneaultCZcams Thank you Joel so much for the reply. I thank you for your advice and will keep what you said in mind about using WD-40 (Just make sure it is ALL removed so as to not contaminate the vacuum pump oil). I found vacuum pump oil at tractor supply and am not sure it would be good for this as it is for dairy farms and their milking vacuum pumps... I am having a hard time finding vacuum pump oil for the HVAC pumps hmmm, any suggestions?. I am still waiting on the eBay seller to get back with me with replacing this locked pump. If I have to take this apart, I think it will be fun using this situation for creating my first repair video on CZcams and pointing viewers to your channel for the inspiration, and who knows it may be a start of something. I love tinkering and taking things apart, troubleshooting and fixing, but it is frustrating to buy something and have to take it apart and repair it out of the box... As a kid I took things apart just to see what made them work and never actually put anything back together, but now I take things apart to find a way to fix them and thought that may be a great idea for a CZcams channel...
@@Reflections2013 I always took things apart as a kid too. My father was a mechanic, so later on I followed him around and learned a lot of stuff, and got put to work.
I would think that any vacuum pump oil should be fine. If you do a little reading on what vacuum pump oil is, it might put your mind at ease. It has something to do with the refining process and removing sulfur .... I believe ... either way, they basically refine it a few more steps on top of "normal" oil
Normal engine oil would not hurt your pump. It would simply not allow you to pull a complete vacuum and might make you think that there was something wrong with the pump. Not sure what your location is, but I have been able to find pump oil on amazon and a few places online, and I am in Canada ... we usually have limited choices compared to the US.
If you are thinking about making some youtube videos, this would be a good place to start, for sure. You don't have to do it as a "how to". lots of people like videos that they can relate to, and someone who doesn't have experience just trying to sort something out could be popular. Good luck 👍
@@JoelArseneaultCZcams Thanks for another great response Joel. Wow - interesting - my Dad was also a mechanic, and I think allot that I learned was from watching him. I also would like to update my result with eBay. They decided to refund my money and have me return the damaged pump. I have decided to try buy another pump from them in a week or so and try again and just maybe my 2nd pump will turn out like your 4th (one could only hope right??).
Thanks for the suggestions on where to look - BUT I went to my local Hardware store and they told me ---- "What is vacuum pump oil???"... LOL so you can imagine I didn't find any there. I went to a local HVAC center, and after talking with them for a few moments, they not only went in back and found a quart of oil that they had on hand and sold it to me, but they was at that time needing to make a order for more oil and added (at my request) 2 gallons of premium vacuum pump oil to their order. I will be going Monday to pick it up. They were super nice people to talk too.
So I said all that to say this... Anyone that may be looking for Vacuum Pump Oil and are having a hard time finding it - try to find an HVAC center in your area, walk in, explain your situation and they may very well be able to sell you what you need. Thanks again Joel, you have been very helpful and kind and it is appreciated.
I also want to thank you for the suggestion on a channel (type of channel). I really like that approach... Everyone needs someone they can relate too and - so do I, and I definitely relate to you for sure so thanks for what you do my friend, your helping allot of people...
@@Reflections2013 Thanks for the comment ! That is great info.
I have the same style pump. Do you know of anyway to make a cut out switch. To maintain 25hg. Ex cut in and vacuum to 25 then cut out and if it goes to 20 cut back in and cut out at 25 again.
I've looked into this before and you can buy a "Adjustable Vacuum Negative Air Pressure Switch". I found them on aliexpress. I've never done it, but you would wire this into your power cord (basically) and it would kill the power to the pump at the desired pressure. I highly doubt that you can set when it turns back on, but it would have a preset of a few hg before restarting.
The other route you could take, that would take a lot more ... knowledge / tinkering, is to use an arduino (programmable circuit board) to trigger relays and program in you high and low levels. You would need a pressure sensor, a relay and arduino.... I can't help you with details on that, but there are plenty of forums.
Informative video. Do they make parts for vacuum pumps? I have a Dayton 7 CFM. It runs for a little bit and then stops and sounds like it locks up. I took it apart and then turned the motor on, it sounds fine.
I have gone on a search looking for parts in the past and didn't have much luck. I feel like there's probably a place where you can get rebuild kits, but I have not found it.
Running for a while and stopping sounds like perhaps a clearance or alignment issue. Once the pump gets hot, it may be binding up. New parts may not solve this. It may just need careful assembly... but it's hard to say for sure.
Hey bud how do you replace the oil rings on the robinair 15600 Iso-Valve Assembly ?
I have never had one apart, but i just had a quick look at the part and a parts diagram. It looks like the end of the valve assy has a groove in it that is easier for a retaining clip or some sort of retaining screw. They do not show either of these things in the diagram... You may be able to access this by removing the inlet fitting on top, but I'm guessing you have to take the whole thing apart. The retainer may be accessible if you remove the pump assembly from the motor.
Amazing work! I'm shocked this doesn't have more views. Of course a 1hp vacuum pump is better at decreasing pressure, and moving air, but why does 1 hp make you more comfortable running it for long periods, than one rated with less power? You totally could be right, but I don't understand why that'd be.
Thanks for your comment.
Running a bigger pump with more power has a few advantages. 1 is that it is able to pull a vacuum more quickly and maintain a vacuum if there's a small leak. It can also run under higher load for a longer period without stressing it out.
Hiya, thank you for taking your time to make this, I'll make sure to clean the one out that I just purchased. However what oil/oil specification do you use on these pumps? Also how did you go about removing rust?
You need to use proper compressor pump oil. Lots of times "special oil" is just a marketing thing, but this is legit. The quick explanation is that normal oil has a lot of stuff in it that will offgas and this would not allow the pump to pull a vacuum. The proper oil does not foam or offgas at low pressures, and this makes it possible to pull a better vacuum.
If you have rust, I use scotch brite when I can. It will remove rust pretty well and isn't too aggressive.
I have also one of this pumps. I use I to power my vacuum table of my cnc. The problem is that it overheats after about 40 minutes. Is that normal?
That's not normal. I have run mine for hours without overheating. Although ... I'm not sure about the science, but if you have air leaks I believe you are working the pump harder than if you have a seal and it is achieving close to 25 inches of mercury, for example...
These motors are enclosed and do run hot. Make sure that the fan on the end of your motor is spinning and not damaged. Make sure that the end of the motor is not blocked and that it is not in an enclosed space.
If you can't solve the heating problem, you could loop copper pipe around the motor and circulate water with a pump, to water cool it.
Use a cold trap to stop moisture harming pump. A cold inverted U that condenses vapor before the V pump.
This is an interesting idea...Not trying to pick on you by responding to your comments... I'm really trying to wrap my head around it and it seems backwards. Cold air is more dense and has more moisture. For this to work, you would have to cool and condense the air, pull the moisture out of the cool air and then allow it to enter the pump.
On a closed system, simply cooling the air would condense it, but that would just create more work for your pump as your pump would then have to expand the air, and if you didn't remove the moisture it is still getting that moisture. Further, you can't trap moisture in a vacuum as the vapor point of water would stop this from happening... unless you used liquid nitrogen to keep it frozen.
It is my understanding that even ice in a vacuum will offgas due to the vapor point, so I'm not sure how or if it is possible to remove water in this way.
It seems to me that super heated air would be free of more impurities, like water and would also have more energy that would be easily extracted, and as the temperature dropped, the pressure would naturally drop. I may be missing something here, but it seems to me that heating the air before your pump inlet would drive off moisture and be the best solution.
Sorry I'm slightly confused, must've missed something... What causes cheap vacuum pumps to fail?
Watched the other video (1st part) and saw your previous pumps were seriously defective with moisture corrosion.
The reason they fail is b/c these cheap pumps are full of gak/grit. I've seen that on many other Chinese manufactured items, I think they don't believe in keeping things clean, they know well these aren't clean.
Hopefully mine isn't ruined already, I'll be taking it apart for thorough cleaning.
Yes, this is part two, and in the first one I showed a lot of rust. In addition I took this working pump apart and found a combination of rust on pump surfaces from being shipped, grime / casting junk and debris left behind. I also found a missing bolt, so in some cases being assembled poorly.
@@JoelArseneaultCZcams Thnks, yes I did miss the first part. Going to watch it now, for the details!
Such a beautiful job! Thank you. Mmm. A thought. A question, rather. When does a rotary vane pump work hardest: (a) when pumping against ambient air or (b) when pumping against a vacuum? You seemed immediately to have acquiesced to the notion that (b) was the correct answer. And you even defined pump break-in and shut-down protocols predicated upon that intelligence. I won't dispute the correctness of your protocols, I merely deny their premise. That is, I claim that a rotary vane pump works harder when pumping against ambient air than when pumping against a high vacuum. Given that the pump runs at a nearly constant speed (which is probably pretty nearly true), the amount of gas that it expels will be proportional to the density of the gas that enters its pumping chamber. Indeed, in order to expel gas at a constant rate (which effectively equates to a constant rate of work) , the rotational velocity of the pump would have to increase inversely to the gas's density. But it doesn't.
Upon considering the problem further, I believe that the answer turns upon asking the right question. I would claim that rotary vane pumps, once running, do very little work when pumping against a vacuum. Moreover, I claim that their capacity to generate a vacuum is limited -- not by the power of their motors -- but by the lack of gearing needed to increase their rotational velocities. However, during startup, rotary vane pumps have no rotational velocity. When pumping against ambient air, the pressure differential between the inside and outside gasses is small and nearly constant while the pump is rotating slowly. But when pumping against a high vacuum, the pressure differential essentially equals the ambient pressure. So the pump must produce a large, momentary torque in order to initiate the pumping process -- which is, I think, the rationale behind your startup protocol. Interestingly enough, compressors have a similar startup problem. A special valve is used to bleed off high-pressure gas from the compressor's compression chambers when the motor turns off. This prevents the compressor's motor from having to muster the torque needed to complete an already begun compression cycle during startup.
Anyway. Your presentation was a tour-de-force of logic, self assurance, and gumption. You're the guy who went from knowing nothing about rotary vane pumps to suggesting how pump engineers might improve on their design (by using studs to ensure proper registration for the pump's component parts). Kudos!
Wow... You obviously put a LOT of thought into this. You are correct, I made a lot of assumptions about the workload on the pump ambient vs vacuum. I don't believe I have the cognitive ability (or time) to fully process what you are saying, but I do understand what you are getting at.
If you have a syringe half full of liquid, with no visible air, block the end and pull on it, the amount of force required ramps up, but at a certain point the amount of force required quickly ramps back down. It makes for a very odd spring effect and I believe this is caused by what you are talking about.
As for the compressor analogy, I am familiar with this release valve. I built a custom compressor and installed it in my attic. The valve releases pressure from the top of the piston and the lines leading to the tank check valve, so that the pump can spin up under atmospheric pressure. 👍
As for spinning the pump faster, I'm sure that would help to some extent, but ultimately (to my understanding) it is the lack of air molecules, close to a "perfect" vacuum that make this process difficult. If you were trying to empty a bathtub with a cup, at first it would go quickly, but once you have droplets the cup is no longer effective and a different tool is required.
I don't think I explained myself very well, but I believe that the reason why the pump shouldn't be shut down under "load" is that the check valve system is not perfect in these pumps. My thought is that the atmospheric pressure will leak through the check valve putting a load on the pump veins. I suspect this is not good when the pump is really hot.
Interesting. I think that your cup analogiy is correct. At some point the density of the compressed gas (viz. the gas in the cup) becomes so low (ie. contains so few molecues) that it lacks the pressure needed to open and expel itself past the one-way reed valve.
@@bradalmond3618 I'm pretty sure you are entirely correct. I'd imagine though, that although the pump isn't working as hard under vacuum as ambient air, that the decrease in air molecules reduces the cooling. So I'd imagine a vacuum to be doing less work once it pulls the vacuum, but counterintuitively actually generate more heat (in the material of the motor itself due to friction), because the creation of the vacuum also decreases the cooling media itself, the air. It's probably this increase in heat, that makes people often assume it is doing more work.
You need to zoom in, it's really hard to see anything you're doing.
Yeah, this was shot with a very wide angle and a head cam so that my hands were free... not the best for capturing details.
It was too late for me to watch this video before I start to repair My cheap vacuum pump (which I bought for 15 USD in junk yard). My problem was gauge was always stuck at -0,9 bars. Never have any exprience with vacuum pump and gauge before. Whatever I watch at youtube everybody reach almost -1 bar at their gauge. But by this Video I learn that altitude of Ankara is 980meters Which cause my gauge to show maximum -0.9 bar. I really learn a lot by disassembling vacuum pump but it is too difficult to adjust the Vanes and layers. if you do that wrong, your pump won't work properly. if you have 2 stage and powerful vacuum pump, maybe you won't notice that your pump work decent as long as you test it . It may vacuum fully but may be much slower than original. That is why very, very carefully try to fix your vacuum pump. May be better don't touch it. :-D I learn it by hard way, too
Sorry to hear about your troubles. I'm not sure what you mean about being difficult to adjust the vanes and layers? I am a mechanic, but I didn't find anything difficult about the assembly of this pump.
I did have a slight issue with alignment of the housings the first time I put it together, but once I knew I had to be careful, it was easy to correct. I'm curious what your problem was / is.
@@JoelArseneaultCZcams First of all I did not study mechanic and I have very limited knowledge. My pump is the lowest model on the market I guess, 1/4 HP motor and 1 stage 1.5 or 1.8 CFM.. when I am rebuilding it, I can easily fix the layers 2mm left, right, down and up. So it is all up to me. It will still work but not at the best .if I do any mistake system shows me the result immediately ! WHY? because I have super weak motor + 1 stage vanes. NO backup vanes, not big power. Even the torque which you use to fix the bolds plays Hughes roles at my pump. But you are lucky you have 1/2 HP motor + 2 stage vanes + your pump looks more decent than mines. so even if you do a bad alignment or adjustment when you rebuid the system. it will still vacuum perfectly. Why, because 2 stage support to each others mistakes + 1/2 HP support them with big Power. But with bad allignment you may not reach 5CFM any more may be much less.After you rebuild it, even if it vacuums fully it may not be working at promised speed. May be I am totally wrong too. But "If it works... don't touch it" rules is the best. To be honest, I would still touch it. It is fun :-D I also notice that more oil I add, better Vacuum I get . Pump that I have has oil window which has mark at the middle says " oil level" , no max or min marks. I add the oil up to 4/5 and vacuum gets better. I think oil is a great sealer. That seal the vanes very well. I use SAE 30 oil. not something expensive.
@@TheHoppala007 Thanks for the clarification. I understand what you mean now.
I don't know whether to trust this brand or not, on their website, there's not one negative review of this brand, compared to all the negative reviews found on amazon, it seems like, they filtered the reviews on their website to show positive reviews only
I have had really good luck with mine and have now used it a lot... It took forever for me to get one that was worth keeping due to the rust, but this one is holding up really well... no problems at all.
thanks, keep up th good work, watching you from EDmonton
@@wk4523 Edmonton 👍 Cool. Most of my viewers are either from the US or overseas.
Do you by chance have a parts list for this pump? I have a similar one and tore it down to rebuild the vacuum pump portion (covered in schmutz). In the process I've lost one of the tiny reeds you're talking about at 29:53 in your video. I've reached out to the manufacture (Vivohomes) who says they don't have a parts list and I should contact the seller (Amazon) which I did. After 2 cycles of run-around they also don't have a parts list. Great presentation on the product!
Hey, sorry but I don't have a parts list for it either. I did a bunch of searching online when I posted this video and was able to find some stuff, but I don't remember how or where.
@@JoelArseneaultCZcams - I get it. I've been searching for about 2 days and have come up empty.....
@@gjDOnBBQ That sucks. Maybe try contacting Vevor or another company. There are lots of companies that all sell these.
thanks for the video. do you have a link to part 1?
Thanks for the comment. Here's the link czcams.com/video/0B2w6yBjSro/video.html
Hey man, very helpful video! I have the exact same pump as you and I’m trying to do a similar thing with the hose hook up. I need to buy the barb to thread fitting that attaches onto the inlet of the pump. Do you know the specs for the thread of that part? I see many different parts with NPT but I dont think those threads are NPT I thought they were more like straight threads. If you know the part you bought that would be a huge help!
It took me a few minutes to figure out what part you were talking about... I have a bad memory sometimes. I ended up going to a local shop called "greenline hose and fittings" and brought the fittings that I wanted to adapt from / to and they sold me the part. I forget what it is called, but it is not NPT. I spent a whole lot of time trying to figure this out on my own, but the pros knew what to do immediately.
What will happen if i put 2 ml of oil to the air area.. 😢..
İ mistakely did that yesterday
What i can do to solve this problem ?
I'm not totally sure what you mean ? You put oil where it sucks air in ? I'm pretty sure that nothing bad will happen at all...
@@JoelArseneaultCZcams yes that what I meant
Thank you for your reply 🙏
Fantastic stuff! Can I ask how has the pump performed over the last ten months since this video. I'm looking to buy a kit (with chamber) and currently doing research.
I have used this for several projects and have lots of hours on the pump. It has not given me any issues so far.
where can I get Vevor vacuum pump spares parts
I have no idea. I've had a few people ask that question. I will pin this question to the top and hopefully someone out there knows, and will share the info with us.
I opened the 2RS3 and it. Looked different inside. I think they've redesigned the pump.
The two blocks for 1st and second stage look much deeper/thicker and the reed valves have a faucet mesh on top with what appear to be adjustment screws as they sit proud of the surface..
Btw they only put a small amount of oil... Say 10-20mls. I was going to find an iso32 oil and use that.
Fan feels smooth but firm.
All external parts of pump look free of rust.
What little oil that's in the big end casing has fine black in the bottom with the rest of the oil above it honey colour. Not sure why they didn't include oil bottle in the foam recess but perhaps I got a cheaper deal.
The pump is identical to yours on the outside but inside looks different. Yours seems to have more blocks that are thinner. I'd send you a pic if I could figure how on this thread .
Interesting. The deeper vien sections would indicate that it is a higher volume pump. It sounds like overall they have made it a better pump 👍 I'm really happy with mine so far and have a lot of hours on it, so hopefully yours works well as well.
Yes, I believe that black stuff at the bottom is stuff from the casting not being cleaned really well before assembly. It would get stirred up into the oil if you ran it fro long, and I can't imagine that would be good for anything. Perhaps someone already had your pump and removed the oil. I think it would be in their best interest to include the oil, as if they don't, they will get a LOT of people running them without oil. Even with the oil in the box and a big yellow note telling people there isn't any oil in the pump, people still run them and seize them... and then return them.
@@JoelArseneaultCZcams I'm running it for 15 mins with inlets and outlet cap open. With the required 370mls of oil and it's looking clean through window. Temperature with temp gun shows 47C after 15 mins from 25C ambient temp at start.
Will drain oil just to be sure as I got 5 litres of good quality penrite iso 32 vac pump oil for $32 AUD delivered.
@@rodneyalan6441 That sounds good. They do run pretty hot under normal operation. That sounds like a really good price !
It goes down to only 25 Hg? That is bad. Even cheapest vacuum pump is supposed to achieve 99% vacuum or 29.6 Hg. Original spec for this pump is probably 99% vacuum, so something is still not working properly.
It's a little more complicated than that. Vacuum pressure is simply the absence of air in a container, but the actual pressure is supplied by atmospheric pressure.
You may be able to get 30 Hg below seal level if barometric pressure is really high, but I am at almost 4000 ft, so the max I can get here, on most days, is 25 or 26. I used it this weekend, it was a little cool and damp and it had no trouble getting to 26.5 Hg.
Again, you are removing air from something, and the pressure is supplied by the surrounding air pressure. This is why there is a max that can be reached.
Pump specifications are for capped intake with no flow. Most pump manufacturer produce pumping curve pressure vs flow. Also mechanical Bourdon gauge give what is call gauge pressure related differential to atmospheric pressure. Thermal gauge like thermocouple and Pirani gauge type give you absolute pressure reading not relate to atmospheric pressure.
Can you repair the electric motor/stator on the pump? I don't think my motor is spinning.
I do not know much about these motors. I believe they are induction motors and the most common failure would be the capacitor. That being said, they are very reliable and I would check everything else before I assume that the motor is the problem.
Some of these have a breaker, it will likely also have a thermal / overheat switch and a power switch. If you can or could hear it hum, that could mean that something is seized causing the motor not to turn, or that you have a bad capacitor. You should be able to turn the motor over easily by turning the fan with your fingers. If not, something is probably stuck.
Another common problem with single-phase AC induction motors is their capacitor either wrongly dimensioned, or failed. I see this almost every time I get to investigate a motor not starting and tripping the circuit breakers. The capacitor is hooked up in series with the auxiliary winding, and they are wired in parallel to the main winding. The capacitor shifts the phase and buildup of the magnetic field by 90° in order to force the rotor to spin in a desired direction, mostly clockwise by industry standard.
Check the overall condition of your capacitor and capacity with the help of a multimeter which has a capacitor measuring function.
Please I need your help. I currently want to build a system, that allows hot steam to enter and leave a vacuum while maintaining a specific pressure. I know how to keep the temperature in the system constant at 200 degrees Celsius. I also know how to attend the initial desired pressure. The problem now is how do I make pass hot steam through this system, and allowing the steam to escape the system without changing the pressure of the system? What device(s) could be used to achieve this desire? Thanks for helping out guys .
I'm not sure, but this is a very complex problem. In some ways, it is somewhat impossible, depending on what you mean by vacuum. It is also impossible depending on how accurate your temperature needs to be regulated.
Introducing steam will increase the pressure, you are also introducing water, and I assume that the water, in a near vacuum, will off gas and cause both cooling and loss of vacuum. Depending on the amount of steam you would need a massive vacuum pump to maintain near vacuum, and a very powerful heater to maintain heat.
Pulling the water out becomes another big problem that I'm not sure how to fix, but I do know that you can't allow this to get to your pump or it will cause issues very quickly.
@@JoelArseneaultCZcams, this just might get the job done...... www.amazon.com/BLCH-Compressed-Regulator-Lubricator-Separator/dp/B09MFBF7KK/ref=sxin_16_pa_sp_search_thematic_sspa?content-id=amzn1.sym.ce09a34f-b7c0-4019-9345-c7ca21632dd6%3Aamzn1.sym.ce09a34f-b7c0-4019-9345-c7ca21632dd6&crid=12ADOOV6K8CBE&cv_ct_cx=compressor+water+trap+with+regulator&keywords=compressor+water+trap+with+regulator&pd_rd_i=B09MFBF7KK&pd_rd_r=80d8ff0b-3b01-49f2-af26-722dd9e847ea&pd_rd_w=UcmEy&pd_rd_wg=iPxw8&pf_rd_p=ce09a34f-b7c0-4019-9345-c7ca21632dd6&pf_rd_r=WEEDQJFYXQSB58AW8162&qid=1686104476&sbo=RZvfv%2F%2FHxDF%2BO5021pAnSA%3D%3D&sprefix=compressor+water+trap%2Caps%2C99&sr=1-3-f198e6a3-f8ba-40fc-adb1-ef5348fd130e-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExSFo5SzZSNDQzTTRMJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNzc2NzU2MUk2RTJXUzZWRFBFTiZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwOTI4NzkzMUdDM0tONEsyMzhKJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3Bfc2VhcmNoX3RoZW1hdGljJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
@Joel Arseneault Hi Joel, do you know of a good resource for getting replacement parts? The plastic pieces inside the vanes are what I'm hoping to find. One of mine wore out and came loose inside, only to seize the vacuum up completely. Thanks for the great vid!
No, sorry, but I have not been able to find parts for these.
@@JoelArseneaultCZcams any idea what material the vanes are made of? I'm having several 3D printed. I've found a source for the small compression springs as well.
@@stevelibby3 They are some sort of fibreglass reinforced plastic. Whatever it is is pretty abrasive resistant and hard.
Oh man please change the location of your camera other than your head I getting dizzy I can’t keep watching sorry tried to put it in the stand next to you which will be more study focusing for the viewers thanks
Haha... agreed. I'm not sure why I did this... it may have been so that I could work hands free without having the camera in my way. I haven't done this before or after, that I am aware of... Other than bike or jetski riding content.
My friend what for is it the the red screw? I gotta put it in oil as well?
Look at 34:41 and the answer is there.
The "red screw" is the fill plug. I used a different hole to add oil, as it is easier. Both of these holes go to the same area.
@@JoelArseneaultCZcams thank you my friend I did it, because I didn’t know xs🙏
Thumbs up ! But Too too too Much Talking , way too much, with no brake
Thanks for the comment ! Thanks for the input ! There was lot of information to convey, so though you are probably right, I think it's the best way to go about it.
Thx for the "Vac Pump Tear Down" Audio (you must really like to hear yourself) but a functional Video would have been 3X more helpful as your De-zoomed widefield "fisheye"
I’ve had this comment twice now. If I ever make a video like this again, I will keep that in mind. I’m used to shooting wide angle for action shots and to ensure I actually capture something.
I didn’t consider people would want to watch this as a detailed video because there are so many different versions of this pump and I’m not an expert… this is my first (one of my first ?) pump tear downs. I would assume the general info would be enough, otherwise, maybe the viewer shouldn’t be tearing a pump down 🤷♂️
we got to see a closeup of oil being poured in the rest forget it. why bother
I'm not sure what you are saying - Why bother because the rest of the footage wasn't good or just why bother taking it apart ?
This top-down view isn't doing you any favors, especially with the extreme wide-angle lens. Everything is too small and the angle makes it very hard to see any detail, even on a 32" PC monitor. I can't help but feel sorry for the people viewing this on mobile devices.
Thanks for your input. I will keep this in mind if I do a video like this again. I believe the reasons I shot wide angle is because 1. I have it as the default (this is not normally what I shoot) 2. it leaves much more room for error with the part still being in frame if my angle isn't quite right and then I move around. 3. As I believe I mentioned in the video, this was not meant to be specific to this pump, just vacuum pumps in general. If I made a detailed video, it would very likely mislead or confuse people who have a slightly different pump.
Can't see shyt !!! 5 minutes in and was hoping for a closer view. Ugh
I've had this comment a few times. There are lots of different pumps and even pumps of this same model (over time) have changed and have more, less and different pieces, so a detailed, close up video would likely add more confusion than it would solve.
If you have basic mechanical abilities you should have no problem taking this apart and putting it back together. (assuming that is your goal). There's really not much to it once you get in there. I would suggest either shooting a video of your disassembly or taking photos at each step. This was my first time ever taking one of these pumps apart.
Can't see anything too much nonsense talking
😂 I'm sorry you feel that way... Interesting, most of the other comments are positive. Are you working on your pump and need something more detailed, or just looking for something more cinematic ?
Lol! I just ordered this pump 🤣🤣
🤟 I now have hundreds of hours on it and it has worked flawlessly.
@@JoelArseneaultCZcams Nice dude. I should clean mine. But I did notice that it's a different model so it's probably perfect inside. It says CHINA on the box after all. Not to mention it looks exactly same as all the others but like... different model number ya know? so for sure these are different.... 😑😑 also glad I got oil. I got the pump today and the bottles they sent with it look like water that they just put in bottles themselves.
@@YoureNotSoSmartBro Haha... there are a lot of little differences. Some with motor power, some with pump volume / one stage vs two stage, and then others that make no difference at all like a different filler cap, carry handle etc.
Most good vacuum pump oil is clear and quite thin, so I wouldn't necessarily count it out, but it's always good to have more.