Anyone who reads this should be ordering JTF438-14! This is a 520 series sprocket that is wider where it engages the countershaft splines giving more contact area than JTF437 to prevent damage. The JT rear sprockets for a 520 conversion are JTR822-XX (XX being the teeth count) for steel, JTA822-XX for aluminum rear sprockets. While you are there replace the lower chain roller with an All Balls 79-5001and toss the upper roller before the chain removes it with the chuck of frame it's bolted to. The other alternative is a Fritzco front sprocket, wider spline contact area than the JTF438.
Great video man. I just stopped by hoping to find a new video. You guys out of the snow yet? I'm going to be making some gearing changes here soon, so I was glad to find this video.
ColoradoDualSport It's great to see you here! Sorry life has been happening, we both got new employment, new bikes and free time is limited. We plan on releasing a few videos in the near future. Good luck with your gearing changes, heading over to watch your latest video...
Hi! I wonder if you can help me. My 1988 dr 600 rear wheel sprocket has no play going forward or backward but it slides on it's axle, like if you go and push on it from the left side of the bike it moves quite a bit. Is it normal?
Sum4Seb Hi! You are super cool, thanks for trying being helpful. I already solved the problem: some smartass dismounted the rear wheel and in the process of remounting it he put the spacer (next to the rear sprocket in my model) upside down. Good thing i notice the noise the chain made and investigate, or the bike wheel could have blocked on the highway and then... i don't know. Thanks again :)
This may seem like an obvious question but how do you adjust the chain on the right hand side of the bike looking from the back? The left is easy, just put a socket on it and turn, but how do you move the other side. (I have a second hand bike with no manual).
Hi, to adjust the chain slack, you have to take the cotter pin out, loosen the nut on the right hand side, adjust the chain slack with the adjusters on both sides equally. Once you have the slack adjusted to 1.2" to 1.8", tighten the rear axle nut back to 79.5 ft lb of torque, and put the cotter pin back in (or get self locking nut). You can also find the .pdf owners manual online (refer to section 7-22).Ride safe out there!
The service manual doesn't state anything but I always add a bit of waterproof grease and loctite the bolts. From memory I think the bolts are 4.5 ft/lb of torque
Well done ! I'm experimenting with the 14 and 13 tooth sprocket on our DR 650 and wounder why a " snap ring " would not work instead of the 3 bolt retainer ?
Hi, some have used the snap ring and it seemed fine. We like to try to keep things as stock as possible, they also sell a triangular retainer to replace the stock one. I think pro cycle and a few others sell it. 13T will wear components on your bike much faster because of the short radius around the swing arm. You can also go with a bigger rear sprocket to get the same gear ratio. Good luck with your testing and happy riding 😀
I just put a 14 on front, I put the tension on chain at 3 on each side. The chain is tight but has some play, do u think its ok? I am a newbie so bare with me, lol PS u say 1.2 to 1.8 is that millimeters?
Hi, it's in inches (30-45mm) and it's measured at the mid point between the center of the front sprocket and center of the rear axle. You definitely want it to be on the loose side rather than tight side. It's section 7-21 in there owner's manual, you should download the service manual pdf as well. Let me know if you need anything else and congrats on your bike 😀
Hi, we get them from Fortnine.ca in Canada. Not sure where you are from but Google should definitely find something for your area. Good luck with your search
Bro My front sprocket has been damaged as its teeth are a bit bend. But my back sprocket looks fine. Is it okay if i change my front sprocket only? Or should i buy a complete chain set?
Hi, sorry for the late reply. I personally would inspect if your rear sprocket and the chain is still in good shape. Read your owner's manual and check the stretch on your chain. If everything is within spec I would just switch the front sprocket it will just end up wearing a tad bit faster that's all. Next time around then you can change everything all at once. Hope this makes sense, good luck with the swap and enjoy riding your bike!
Sorry I keep calling it a seal but it's actually called a Front sprocket damper, only used to reduce the noise level of the chain unto the front sprocket. Some people like having them in no matter what, I really didn't hear any difference between the two setups. The OEM front sprocket has a rubber damper. Aftermarket sprockets do not as far as I know. The damper only affects noise, not function. Hope this helps, good luck and *T4W*
Anyone who reads this should be ordering JTF438-14! This is a 520 series sprocket that is wider where it engages the countershaft splines giving more contact area than JTF437 to prevent damage. The JT rear sprockets for a 520 conversion are JTR822-XX (XX being the teeth count) for steel, JTA822-XX for aluminum rear sprockets. While you are there replace the lower chain roller with an All Balls 79-5001and toss the upper roller before the chain removes it with the chuck of frame it's bolted to. The other alternative is a Fritzco front sprocket, wider spline contact area than the JTF438.
Thanks for watching, good summary of necessary information if converting to a 520 chain. Have a great weekend.
Simple and to the point. You deserve an award.
Excellent. Doing the front and rear before my next trip
Perfect instruction video, simple and clear! Thank you!
Hi and thanks for dropping us a comment, good luck! 😀
Great tutorial! Really clear and helpful
Thank you, popular mod for off roading, made a big difference.
Thanks for the instructions. I saw a torque spec for the 3 bolts at 54 inch-pounds , I think maybe it's right.
cool wish i had one
Excellent post, thank you for sharing.
Glad you liked it, hope you have a great riding season 😀 *T4W*
Nice. Thanks.
Great video man. I just stopped by hoping to find a new video. You guys out of the snow yet? I'm going to be making some gearing changes here soon, so I was glad to find this video.
ColoradoDualSport It's great to see you here! Sorry life has been happening, we both got new employment, new bikes and free time is limited. We plan on releasing a few videos in the near future. Good luck with your gearing changes, heading over to watch your latest video...
nice how to mate!
Thank you, much appreciated.
what do you do kf you are staying with a 252 chan.....found a 14 28 for mine?
Hi! I wonder if you can help me. My 1988 dr 600 rear wheel sprocket has no play going forward or backward but it slides on it's axle, like if you go and push on it from the left side of the bike it moves quite a bit. Is it normal?
Andrea Gili Is there anyway you could take a small video of what it does, that way I have a visual to go from. Post as private and send me the link :)
Sum4Seb Hi! You are super cool, thanks for trying being helpful. I already solved the problem: some smartass dismounted the rear wheel and in the process of remounting it he put the spacer (next to the rear sprocket in my model) upside down. Good thing i notice the noise the chain made and investigate, or the bike wheel could have blocked on the highway and then... i don't know. Thanks again :)
This may seem like an obvious question but how do you adjust the chain on the right hand side of the bike looking from the back? The left is easy, just put a socket on it and turn, but how do you move the other side. (I have a second hand bike with no manual).
Hi, to adjust the chain slack, you have to take the cotter pin out, loosen the nut on the right hand side, adjust the chain slack with the adjusters on both sides equally. Once you have the slack adjusted to 1.2" to 1.8", tighten the rear axle nut back to 79.5 ft lb of torque, and put the cotter pin back in (or get self locking nut). You can also find the .pdf owners manual online (refer to section 7-22).Ride safe out there!
Should the counter shaft be lubricated with something like anti-seize. I read the shaft is bad to wear
The service manual doesn't state anything but I always add a bit of waterproof grease and loctite the bolts. From memory I think the bolts are 4.5 ft/lb of torque
Well done ! I'm experimenting with the 14 and 13 tooth sprocket on our DR 650 and wounder why a " snap ring " would not work instead of the 3 bolt retainer ?
Hi, some have used the snap ring and it seemed fine. We like to try to keep things as stock as possible, they also sell a triangular retainer to replace the stock one. I think pro cycle and a few others sell it. 13T will wear components on your bike much faster because of the short radius around the swing arm. You can also go with a bigger rear sprocket to get the same gear ratio. Good luck with your testing and happy riding 😀
@@Sum4Seb Thank you and sounds like I'm better off to stay with the 14 tooth and factory retainer .
I just put a 14 on front, I put the tension on chain at 3 on each side. The chain is tight but has some play, do u think its ok? I am a newbie so bare with me, lol PS u say 1.2 to 1.8 is that millimeters?
Hi, it's in inches (30-45mm) and it's measured at the mid point between the center of the front sprocket and center of the rear axle. You definitely want it to be on the loose side rather than tight side. It's section 7-21 in there owner's manual, you should download the service manual pdf as well. Let me know if you need anything else and congrats on your bike 😀
@@Sum4Seb ok will do....I did a test ride around the block and oh my lord , WHAT A UPGRADE! first gear no jerking shifts so smooth!
@@overcome8628 nice! It's -19° here today, no motorcycles for another 4-5 months probably. The 14 tooth is really nice off road too.
We're i can find a sprocket for dr650 with 17 teeth.
Hi, we get them from Fortnine.ca in Canada. Not sure where you are from but Google should definitely find something for your area. Good luck with your search
Thanks iam from Puerto Rico
Bro
My front sprocket has been damaged as its teeth are a bit bend. But my back sprocket looks fine.
Is it okay if i change my front sprocket only?
Or should i buy a complete chain set?
Hi, sorry for the late reply. I personally would inspect if your rear sprocket and the chain is still in good shape. Read your owner's manual and check the stretch on your chain. If everything is within spec I would just switch the front sprocket it will just end up wearing a tad bit faster that's all. Next time around then you can change everything all at once. Hope this makes sense, good luck with the swap and enjoy riding your bike!
@@Sum4Seb thank you :)
How come the seal is not needed?
Sorry I keep calling it a seal but it's actually called a Front sprocket damper, only used to reduce the noise level of the chain unto the front sprocket. Some people like having them in no matter what, I really didn't hear any difference between the two setups. The OEM front sprocket has a rubber damper. Aftermarket sprockets do not as far as I know. The damper only affects noise, not function. Hope this helps, good luck and *T4W*
Sum4Seb helps. Thanks
It’s more so designed to help reduce vibration rather than noise