I've just started to ice climb in the Black Hills, SD after trying it once last year. Slowly bought my own gear over the last 6 months. Glad you made these videos, I've been out twice already this season (top roping) and you have showed me all the stuff I'm already doing wrong. Can't wait to get back out to apply your techniques after watching the series a few times. Also, the "ice screws are an air bag" metaphor put things into better perspective before I decided to get too gutsy. Thanks
It's nice to meet you. Willgard korea kim yongki. It's Kim Yong-ki from Korea who participated in the ice climbing World Cup in 2000. You still do ice climbing, Thank you korea Kim Yong-ki (김용기의클라이밍세상)
Awesome videos and thank you for sharing your experience and knowledge! I'm curious why most ice climbers don't wear clear lens glasses to protect their eyes? In my humble ice climbing experience I always have ice flying back into my face and have started wearing clear eye protection. Thanks again!
I do sometimes, but have issues with fogging. If you're swinging over your head it's also less of an issue than swinging too low and in front of you, which a lot of people do.
Do you recommend to rest on the ice screws during a lead? This is very common in rock climbing. Maybe you can add another video about lead climbing in ice and mixed terrain? Also my set are mostly 16cm screws (and 2x 22cm for the anchor) because the 13cm feel sketchy...Didn't know the 13s are as good as the 16s. Perhaps I can resell them and buy 13cm instead. Thanks a lot for sharing your knowledge, this is awesome!
If I'm pumped, tired, annoyed or whatever then hell yeah rest on an ice screw, way better than falling off! If you're on fat ice 16cm screws are great, it's just that they hit the rock a lot more than 13s.
So aside from extra confidence and making deep v-threads (and eyeing them in easier when the screws backed out a ways) are there any benefit to having long screws?k x
Remember that clipping the rope into a draw or over the pommel roughly doubles the force if you fall off, and makes the fall significantly, and may "rock" the tool in weird ways... Overall I don't do it, better to sink a tool really well and just clip into the pommel/bottom hole if you're pumped or feeling sketched. Make sense?
Dont beat the ice screws on the ice you can damage the screw. If you blow into the hole the ice should come out. You can heat it in your hand for about 3-5 sec if it does not work the first time
When it's cold you probably don't want to put your mouth on a metal screw, nor will blowing dislodge the ice on anything but the warmest days. I've never damaged thread on an ice screw beating it on the ice, metal is a LOT harder than ice. If the ice is really frozen in you may have to put the screw in your jacket to warm it up enough to get the ice out though.
Thank you Will for these videos; very useful! It happened to me a few times that after placing it fully in, the hanger part would sit on top and not on the bottom. A way to avoid this? How critical is this? It sucks if you have a good placement but then you either need to add a semi-turn and damage the ice or take out a semi-turn and the screw is not entirely in. What's the best option?? Cheers from Switzerland!
Hi When starting to engage the ice screw, I always afraid to push to hard nd pop off the ice tool . On the other hand when not pushing enough, the screw is not bitting into the ice. Do you have tips to engage the screww efficiently and not afraid to pop the ice tool
Hi, if you place screws between about your chest and knees with your arm straight to the tool above you then you can push very hard, to the point where your feet come off the ice, but it won't make the tool come out. If you place screws at face level with your arm bent then you are pulling out on the pick, and bad things may happen. Does that help?
On lower angle ice, do you recommend placing the screw with hanger down - and chopping a piece off to make a vertical surface - or can the hanger be perpendicular to the original surface?
If in doubt 90 to the ice gets you most of the strength gains. It an be tricky to figure out how a load will come onto the barrel of the screw, so I visualized the rope going really tight and that often helps me figure it out. No need to chop ice into vertical, it's all relative to the load, not the terrain if that makes sense?
I've just started to ice climb in the Black Hills, SD after trying it once last year. Slowly bought my own gear over the last 6 months. Glad you made these videos, I've been out twice already this season (top roping) and you have showed me all the stuff I'm already doing wrong. Can't wait to get back out to apply your techniques after watching the series a few times. Also, the "ice screws are an air bag" metaphor put things into better perspective before I decided to get too gutsy. Thanks
It's nice to meet you. Willgard korea kim yongki. It's Kim Yong-ki from Korea who participated in the ice climbing World Cup in 2000. You still do ice climbing, Thank you korea Kim Yong-ki (김용기의클라이밍세상)
And you as Will Kim Yong-ki! I hope life is good, and you are still climbing too!
This is such an awesome series, Thank you will!
This video series is amazingly informative thank you 🌞
It's sold at a lot of shops in Canada, hang on and I'll find a link.
Always awesome advice; always cheerful!
These are really great videos! Thanks!
I have a few free ones, they all work well enough honestly.
Thanks ! Useful lecture
Awesome videos and thank you for sharing your experience and knowledge! I'm curious why most ice climbers don't wear clear lens glasses to protect their eyes? In my humble ice climbing experience I always have ice flying back into my face and have started wearing clear eye protection. Thanks again!
I do sometimes, but have issues with fogging. If you're swinging over your head it's also less of an issue than swinging too low and in front of you, which a lot of people do.
Thank you, great series of videos!
What about Russian titanium ice screws? Do you trust and use them just the same?
Do you recommend to rest on the ice screws during a lead? This is very common in rock climbing. Maybe you can add another video about lead climbing in ice and mixed terrain?
Also my set are mostly 16cm screws (and 2x 22cm for the anchor) because the 13cm feel sketchy...Didn't know the 13s are as good as the 16s. Perhaps I can resell them and buy 13cm instead.
Thanks a lot for sharing your knowledge, this is awesome!
If I'm pumped, tired, annoyed or whatever then hell yeah rest on an ice screw, way better than falling off! If you're on fat ice 16cm screws are great, it's just that they hit the rock a lot more than 13s.
@@willgadd2187 Nice Will! Thanks a lot for your answer! I'll try to implement all your tips and tricks the next time I'm ice climbing :).
So aside from extra confidence and making deep v-threads (and eyeing them in easier when the screws backed out a ways) are there any benefit to having long screws?k x
Thank you so much!
The whole angle thing could be thought of as placing a cam u want it in the direction of pull
Yes.
Great series will! Any opinion about chicken-clipping? Quickdraws on the icetools or Loop the rope over the pommel?
Remember that clipping the rope into a draw or over the pommel roughly doubles the force if you fall off, and makes the fall significantly, and may "rock" the tool in weird ways... Overall I don't do it, better to sink a tool really well and just clip into the pommel/bottom hole if you're pumped or feeling sketched. Make sense?
@@willgadd2187 makes sense, thanks!
Dont beat the ice screws on the ice you can damage the screw. If you blow into the hole the ice should come out. You can heat it in your hand for about 3-5 sec if it does not work the first time
When it's cold you probably don't want to put your mouth on a metal screw, nor will blowing dislodge the ice on anything but the warmest days. I've never damaged thread on an ice screw beating it on the ice, metal is a LOT harder than ice. If the ice is really frozen in you may have to put the screw in your jacket to warm it up enough to get the ice out though.
Thank you Will for these videos; very useful! It happened to me a few times that after placing it fully in, the hanger part would sit on top and not on the bottom. A way to avoid this? How critical is this? It sucks if you have a good placement but then you either need to add a semi-turn and damage the ice or take out a semi-turn and the screw is not entirely in. What's the best option?? Cheers from Switzerland!
Chip a little more surface ice away if the hanger isn't flush with it. The ice "below" the hanger is the most important generally.
Hi
When starting to engage the ice screw, I always afraid to push to hard nd pop off the ice tool .
On the other hand when not pushing enough, the screw is not bitting into the ice.
Do you have tips to engage the screww efficiently and not afraid to pop the ice tool
Hi, if you place screws between about your chest and knees with your arm straight to the tool above you then you can push very hard, to the point where your feet come off the ice, but it won't make the tool come out. If you place screws at face level with your arm bent then you are pulling out on the pick, and bad things may happen. Does that help?
@@willgadd2187 Thanks ! That totally make sense
On lower angle ice, do you recommend placing the screw with hanger down - and chopping a piece off to make a vertical surface - or can the hanger be perpendicular to the original surface?
If in doubt 90 to the ice gets you most of the strength gains. It an be tricky to figure out how a load will come onto the barrel of the screw, so I visualized the rope going really tight and that often helps me figure it out. No need to chop ice into vertical, it's all relative to the load, not the terrain if that makes sense?
@@willgadd2187 Yes, thank you!
Hope is neither a means of planning or method of execution.... that's right next to ice screws are like air bags in my head
I like it!
FIRST! Been a while!