Supe Up your Hand Plane By Giving A mouse a cookie
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- čas přidán 26. 08. 2024
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We are playing with Prototypes and want your input. Looking at making items to super up a standard Baily pattern plane to be an amazing hotrod.
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The slop in the depth adjustment drives me crazy, especially when coupled with the coarse thread adjustment. I think Jeff has come up with a great solution to those problems.
i agree Gordon, it doesnt drive me crazy but something i think can be improved on.
Jeffs threaded rod looks excellent
I like the fact that most of the mods are reversible, you’re not permanently changing anything. You can go back to the original parts easily.
I think a kit like that would sell really well. Probably safe to say most woodworkers are hobbyists and don't make much (if any) income from their work. So being able to upgrade instead of replace a tool with something more expensive seems like a win.
I second this
@@Musicpins Agreed. Most people compromise on premium quality planes with a huge price tag for a common (somewhat flawed) cheaper plane. It would make sense to keep low manufacturing cost as a major factor.
Two kits. The angle in one kit. Yolk with either fine or coarse adjust..
The yoke and fine thread adjustment are brilliant!
i like them all. i would like to see a oversized yoke in all dimentions to be filed back. larger arms to grab the knob, longer yoke for the thicker blade and a thicker yoke to file it back for a tight fit as well rather than the expandable option with the screw. also i would for sure want an existing pilot hole in the yoke even if i have to ream it out. i would definitaly invest in several of those if they became available as well as the rod with the smaller threads for incremental adjustments. i would put both on all my old planes. i might possibly order the 50 and/or 55 deg frog adjuster to play with. all of these ideas are fun though. i have played with different ways to decrease the slop and this looks like a better option that anything i came up with
to be clear, i would buy several yokes if they came to market
I think I am going to do the same.
Yeah I’d be most interested in an over sized yoke that could be filed to fit. A pilot hole would help to not mess that operation up.
James you forgot to tell people about Jeff's history as a plane maker and about his brand name: Reed Planes. I saw it on the wedges.
My opinion is that Jeff's ideas are all great here and I would buy them. On the yoke I would rather the end be larger and need to be filed or sanded to size. I think that you need both kit options and individual parts sold separately.
I think you are on to something here. Most of us hobbyists enjoy dinking around with modifications to our tools, just for the fun of it. I would buy these upgrades.
I am relatively new to hand tool wood working. I think most people would be interested in the wedges to change the bed angle and adjustable time. I would certainly but the wedges. I am in the UK and know there would be great interest her.
Fantastic channel James. You and Paul Sellers are me go to
Yoke for sure... Especially with aftermarket irons and chip breakers being thicker. And being able to do that real fine adjustment and getting rid of the slop would be amazing
This reminds me of the Rat Rod trend for car dudes. Take a junky old plane, tune it up, build it out to your spec, and still retain that classic look. I can imagine building out a couple rat rod planes for my different needs. I can't be the only one who would scoop up some of these. I think they're all brilliant ideas.
I really like the idea of the yoke and fine thread on the wheel. It would make them much easier and faster to adjust the way you like them. Thanks for the info.
I definitely like the idea of the parts needing to be filed or drilled to the correct size. People that want an instant solution right out of the box might not like it as much, but I know the yokes and pins on my planes are all different sizes and I would appreciate being able file a bit to get it shorter. Cool idea on the wedges, I used to wedge frogs on occasion, but now have different frogs. I love the idea of a finer adjustment screw. For the knobs, the bigger the better. I really like the Cosman adjustar knob.
I NEED that frog angle wedge!
The number of replies speaks to how interested people are. I heard several you tube woodworkers make the comment that the biggest difference between a LN and old stanley is the "precision". To be honest I can't believe someone hasn't addressed these issues. While we can pick up a number 4 for 20 bucks and with a little make it a good plane it lacks that precision that's would be a game changer for smoothing. Collect the ideas, make the changes. Send out some test packages of parts, make the necessary adjustments go to market. This will be a big success. Dont wait, cuz without patent control, these ideas will be ripped off. I wish Jeff much success.
I would like the angle adjustment and the fine threaded adjustment wheel. Perhaps the yoke could be over sized in length, width and thickness so I could fit it perfect by filing.
Concur! The fine thread wheel and the angle adjustment speak for themselves. An oversize yoke is something that's already available in the UK and something I came across when I was trying to buy a replacement yoke, but they didn't ship to the US. I ended up buying an overpriced #4 yoke ripped off an existing Stanley.
Nice to see someone to looking "out of the box" and improving old tool..
I REALLY like the fine pitch thread and adjuster! Not so thrilled about the frog angle changes, but I am sure there will be a lot people who WOULD be interested in that. I say it is a good idea, doubt you guys will retire on the proceeds from the sale, but you will have the satisfaction that you have helped some woodworkers do something good!
I really like the idea frog angle adjustment !!! And also the depth adjustment screw with finer threads. That is the more interesting things for me as I use the original blade on my plane.
It all sounds great! Pre-drilled sounds better than not drilled at all.
I really like the improved yoke and the fine-pitch adjuster. Maybe the yoke could be pre-drilled for the smallest pin so that the hole is properly located, and customers could drill or ream it as needed. You could make studs that would fit the old Stanleys with RH threads and studs that fit the LH threads, but all could share the same fine-pitch threads, so you didn't have to manufacture and inventory different knobs.
These all sound like great ideas that are worth exploring. I'd be especially interested in the adjustment wheel and the yoke.
Definitely the frog angle adjustments is something I would get. The improved yolk as well, but definitely being able to take a 45deg frog and make it a 55deg frog or even more is wonderful.
A lot of great comments/suggestions here. I’ll add that I’m a big fan of purchases being ready to use right out of the box. So, yeah, longer yoke thingy to handle different blade thicknesses, but also cut a groove in the underside of the lever cap to accommodate it.
Re frog adjustment screw, taking an idea from microscopes, have both a coarse and fine thread screws. Or, figure out how to combine both into a single shaft to conserve space. And, of course, tighter tolerances to minimize lash.
Great book reference..... I use vintage planes for the enjoyment of finding and restoring pieces of history to working order. My planes are "workers" and not wall hangers. But, I see the appeal of this pursuit for others. You can find a rusty old plane for 5 bucks, clean it up, and then consider "suping" it up. Probably the most interesting one is to change the bed angle for difficult grain. The others mayt fall into the personal preference category. I'll be interesting to see where this goes, as you can also learn about planes and set up by following.
The longer pin on the yoke is definately interesting as is the adjustable pin.
The high-angle additions are interesting. I'd pay money for those.
Nice presentation James!
I would love to see spring loaded ball bearings in the yoke and detents on the depth adjusting knob so that you get positive feedback while turning the depth adjuster wheel.
I think all of these should be sold, either separately for as a kit.
Yes! Would totally buy that yoke.
Love the idea of removing some of the slop from the adjustment wheel and yoke. I prefer the predrilled yoke as opposed to the blank yoke. I never gave much thought about adjustable frog angles so I don’t have an opinion on that. Thanks for sharing this exciting hand plane development. I would definitely would upgrade my hand plans.
Awesome James, very good idea to present!
As for the yolk I would say have the larger ends and longer, fatter tip that can be ground to fit. Then drill the hole undersized that way joe shmo can drill the size he needs without worry about drilling crooked.
Good Lord! This is why I use wooden planes.... a hammer and light touch and I'm working, not playing with knobs and screws. I like Bailey style planes, too and I have several of them. When I need to use them, I just set them up and use them. I don't need all of the fancy stuff to make my planes work correctly. But if you do, good luck.
And remember James, the next time you take that thing out of the fridge, "if it looks funny and smells funny, don't eat it!"
While all the things you have shown I can see being utilized… it was the new bolt and adjustment knob or nut that struck me the most! I often find myself turning the adjustment screw a few times before I get any action and to fine tune it would be remarkable!
I love it all. Would love a larger adjusting knob.
Great ideas! I am very much a beginner with my hand planes and that affects my opinions.
1. The larger adjustment knob with the finer threads would be easy to install and would provide an immediate improvement. If the backlash in the yoke is not reduced, it will take more rotation of the knob to take up the backlash.
2. The yoke upgrade takes a bit of skill to tweak correctly. I would prefer it come with an undersized hole to help get the hole in the correct location.
3. Being a beginner, I don't know enough to care about adjusting the frog angle.
I would buy a half dozen plus of each . All the ideas are awesome.
I like all the products. The more adjustability the better. All depends on the price.
The fine thread thing is fantastic. Easy mod to make, big impact on daily use.
Taking the slip out of the wheel… take my money. Also finer adjustment screw would be a game changer in planing hard woods
Nice ideas, I like the nob and the screw.
I think the 55 degree and the yoke with the longer piece with the fine threads. I also like the star wheels to adjust
I think the customers will love these products! I will.
I'm interested in everything that takes slop out of my planes. Everything.
The 50 degree wedge is something I'd buy one of. I'd have a designated #4 with the wedge and appropriately beveled iron.
I’ve never played around with a Veritas custom or a LN plane, but if there are ways to get my vintage planes up to that level, I’m game.
I would love to have a tight yoke, drilled small and large enough to need filing to fit my plane. A fine thread adjustment with a solid knob would also interest me if the tread pattern was tight enough to eliminate tread slop. A knob with well cut treads matching current thread patterns would also be a great option. Love what is being tried - keep thinking out side the box!
I put a reed yoke on my bedrock planes. It was so much fun. I want to do it more. I know I don’t have a life but I love the experimental play. I hope the keep it up.
All of these are great ideas. I can't even find hardware to finish a few. Taps and dies in the original diameter and pitch are unobtanium as far as I can tell.
Definitely like thebigger adjustment Knob and fine adjust!!!
I love this! I think the larger/finer adjustment knobs are smart. You could also try knobs that are similar to what Rob Cosman (with a star-like pattern instead of a round knob). I would be curious to see how well the high angle wedges hold up and perform.
New yoke and adjuster for smoother. That would be nice
Wonderful, Cost is a big factor, I see this being offered in many different options : 1. fine adjuster with basic knob. 2. replacement yoke (the split version looks weak). 3. Frog Angle adjusters (why not make all 5 degree adjusters and standardize, just use 2 to get to the 55 degree angle). 4. Deluxe knobs, custom designs to replace the basic knurled knob. I would definitely be interested in the fine adjuster, and perhaps the yoke option later. PS. the yoke will always have slop, as it has to fit any and all chip breakers , in this case small but works is preferred to exact but can't fit. The yoke tip should be elliptical or segments of a circle to reduce wear and perhaps hardened to make it more of a match to the hardness of the chip breaker; this may mean that you have to offer a number of standard sizes instead of the use a file to fit type. Keep us informed!
Fine thread adjustments. That would solve half of my troubles.
Just my personal opinions:
Consider that a lot of users are using a valuable collectable planes that may also serve as their “users”, and whatever modifications are made should be easily reversible to restore the collectable value of the plane.
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I love the finer thread and the larger adjusting wheel ideas. However, I do believe that you should add two LH threaded nuts to the install kit to allow users to “cleanly” remove the existing threaded rod without having to resort to masking tape and potentially damaging the existing threads. Remember, that we may want to restore the collectable value of the plane back to original.
I also love the frog angle adjustment plates, I think these are a really great idea.
However, to me the “thicker blades” yoke adjustments have mostly already been resolved, so you may just be reinventing the wheel. Hock blades work, and IBC has a chip breaker extrusion that extends to into the blade slot to allow the original yoke adjuster to reach into the chip breaker slot. So the existing solutions are to buy a blade that is already designed to work in your plane, buy a Hock, or buy a thicker blade with a chip breaker extension to work in your plane. Or maybe a “generic slide” could be designed to bridge the gap between the thicker blade and the chip breaker. These solutions also do not require “modifying” a collectable plane that may also serve as a “user”. The thing that concerns me is the stability of the yoke ears on the frog, and the force needed to get out a yoke pin with potentially decades of rust holding it in (you may get lucky and you may not get lucky). Breaking off one of those ears, while trying to remove the yoke pin, will ruin a potentially very valuable plane. Replacement frogs are not always easily obtainable, and if you can find them they will probably be expensive.
I do also really like the idea of tightening up the mechanism, we are all annoyed by the adjuster slop/backlash in the Stanley planes. But for me, I’m not bothered enough by the adjuster slop that it is worth the risk to a valuable collectable plane to take the chance on replacing the yoke.
All that said, I really like all of your ideas, and I think you should definitely keep on working on them. I am personally hesitant, on the current “yoke replacement idea”, but if the others were available I would definitely try them.
Thumbs up on all his ideas
I'd say yes to everything you showed us. They're all viable options and if they came in a kit I and I'm sure with plenty of other people will buy it. No questions asked. It's a "shut up and take my money" no brainer moment.
Definitely a longer yolk. Having a Hock iron+original chipbreaker combo works, but it's nice to have options. Plus being able to chuck one into a transitional after getting a chunkier chipbreaker that has a custon slot for it would be fun. I love my no. 26.
I'm definitely interested, going to keep an eye on this 👍
Awesome that you can actually make those adjustments to a standard plane and make it way better.
I think I would like the fine adjustment-thingy, with a brass knob with a bit of heft to it. I always strugle with it, taking of too much or too little.
Swapping out those angle thingies (45/50/55) - I don't use my plane enough so I can't say whether or not that would be an advantage
Having a longer yoke would help with my thicker iron. I do love Rob Cosman's new star adjustment knob.
I'd love to be able to take the slop out of the depth adjustment, the other stuff would be more for people that have several of each plane so you can set one up for a specific task. something I'd be interested in is a way to lock the lateral adjust or separate it from the depth adjust.
Seems like a super plan.
awesome ideas, I have always hated the slop in the plane iron adjust. all great idea on all areas I would buy all them
The possibility to make a higher bed angle is really cool
A full upgrade kit is a very good idea. I'd prefer a lighter knob. I'd be interested in it.
Love the finer thread as well as the high angle wedges. Nothing bothers me more than messing around with dialing something in with a sloppy course thread! Feels like I take awesome shavings then barely twist it and I’m taking chunks!
I'm more interested in the modifications to the yoke and the adjusting screw than I am in the wedges to change the angle of the frog. I think it's a simpler fix to put a back bevel on a plane iron to change the angle than adding wedges. I have a Stanley No. 7 that I bought new ten or fifteen years ago and it is utter garbage. I flattened the sole, replaced the plastic tote and knob with wooden ones, and put in an aftermarket blade and I'm still not happy with it because of the huge amount of slop when I adjust the blade. I'd even been thinking of adding tiny washers to the ends of the yoke to get rid of some of the slop. I also like the idea of a bigger adjustment wheel and finer threads on the adjustment screw. The smallest bench plane I use is a No. 4; and generally, I tend to use larger planes because I like the weight. I've tried thicker plane irons and chip breakers and I don't think they make all that much difference. I have had a few old plane irons that were unacceptably soft and one that was noticeably bowed across the width of the blade. I think better steel makes more difference than greater thickness. When I get a plane with the old-fashioned chip breaker, I dress the edge of the chip breaker on a diamond stone so that it fits tightly. Over the years, I've found that I prefer Millers Falls planes to Stanleys, I think they're generally a bit better. I have a Miller Falls No 22 on the way to me and I'm hoping I can make it perform better than the Stanley. I'll let you know if I'm successful.
First off... in regards to the upgrades... I agree with Kenneth. I have 2 #4 and #5 planes I use, one with a back bevel and one without. Easy and cheap. The adjuster yoke seems like the lowest hanging fruit, especially if the engagement for the adjuster nut was sized for the largest likely nut and could be filed to fit. Filing might be finicky though... really it should be a consistent radius throughout the range that the yoke would contact the adjuster nut. It would add complexity, but I wonder if an overly wide yoke with interchangeable disks to fit a range of adjuster nuts would work well. I also like the idea of sizing the yoke protrusion to fit the chip breaker slot. I don't know if the split with adjuster screw is the best option... I worry that it would add complexity and cost to the manufacturing process and unless you swap chip breakers occasionally you'd only need to set it once. What about offering an overly thick version that could be file/ground to fit? Seems like a cheap and easy solution to me. I also think I'd like the fine thread adjuster nut when I'm trying to dial in the depth of cut to get gossamer-like shavings would be awesome, but I wonder whether just getting rid of the backlash between the nut, yoke, and chipbreaker would be sufficient. All the bells and whistles are awesome, but at what price point and when does it make more sense to replace my vintage planes with L-Ns? (Rhetorical question... I've told the family I intend to be buried with my vintage planes!)
Now off topic but on Kenneth's last comments: I'm interested in hearing more about your Millers Falls vs. Stanley comparison. Is it just Stanley Bailey, or are you including Bedrock in that comparison? I just picked up my first Millers Falls bench plane because I want to see how they compare too (it's a #10). I've got Millers Falls #56 and #57 block planes that I bought to compare to my Stanley blocks, and while I haven't done a mindful side-by-side comparison I find myself reaching for the MF planes more often than the Stanleys, and that includes my reliable old friend #60-1/2 that I've dialed in over the years and fitted with a Hock iron. I've also been comparing Sargent planes and while I think the VBM vintage are better user planes than Stanley Bailey, some of the older and newer vintage are not quite as good and it seems Sargent was less consistent with the manufacturing processes. One of my favorite go-to planes is the #4 size Sargent Shaw's Patent VBM #9 which took the place of a Stanley Bailey Sweetheart #4 as the standard bevel one in my cabinet. I'm thinking the Stanley it replaced might be a good candidate for testing out these yoke and adjuster mods.
Sorry for the long dissertation... my wife tells me I ramble a lot! I know she's right.
@@Volksaholic Well, Interesting commentary and worthwhile questions. I'm going to limit my comments primarily to Stanley and Millers Falls although I will reference my Lie Nielsen bronze No. 4. Other than the LN I don't own any Bedrock-style planes. I admit I can't get all shook up about the much-praised ease of adjustment of the frog. How often do you adjust the frog on your planes? I very rarely adjust the frog on my planes; I set it and forget it. I might consider changing it if I change blades, but mostly it stays where it is. So Millers Falls Planes are Stanley Bailey knockoffs and are in many ways identical although I think the "good" MF plane, not their economy line is marginally better. I've never done a weight comparison. but they just feel more solid. I do think the lever cap on the "good" MF plane is superior to the Stanley and I think their blades are better (I've had a couple of very disappointing Stanley blades). The experience I had with the relatively recently manufactured Stanley No 7 was a huge disappointment. I've never had to fight to get a used MF plane working. I disassemble them, clean them, sharpen the blade and hone the edge of the chip breaker, reassemble them, and put them to work. I will admit that I have a Stanley No. 8 with a 1910 patent date on it that will stay with me until I'm too old to use it. I also have a MF No. 15 which is the best jackplane I've ever used. Imentioned earlier that I have a MF No. 22 on the way; I'm eager to see how that performs and wish there was a way we could chat about it without boring everybody else crosseyed.
The concept of aftermarket parts for old hand tools definitely has a niche potential. Just like a vehicle: not necessary by any means, but nice for the ones who like to take it to 11. Considering how many planes and such that I have that are 1 or 2 parts away from a fully functional tool, I can see rationalizing purchasing a brand new part (as long as it's as good or better than the original) as opposed to searching ebay for a hard to find great condition set of vintage parts. Now, if you guys can come up with some aftermarket brace parts as well, I'd have another dozen or so working tools to bring out of retirement!
As for the fine threaded knob, a great concept in theory, but reality is different. I can say from experience that fine threads may be more precise, but take much longer to adjust, and it's only as precise as the least precise part of the mechanism in use. Unless you're the type of person who has, say, 2 or 3 number 4's set to specific depths of cut, (and all the power to you if you're lucky enough have the bench space) constantly having to switch between hogging and final passes will make the concept rather regrettable...
Also, although manufacture will be more costly, the frog adjuster really should cover both front and back mating surfaces. Even though the change in angle isn't super extreme, you're greatly magnifying the force that's put on the frog right behind the mouth by making it a single point of contact vs a full surface contact. I'd hate to see someone chip a frog or heel of the mouth that way.
These ideas are pretty brilliant.
That yoke would be a godsend for thick aftermarket irons and chipbreakers. I made a thick iron work by adding two tabs to the chipbreaker for the yoke to hang on to. I would also like to be able to fit the opposite end of the yoke to the adjuster wheel to reduce backlash.
I think the most useful modification is taking the slack out of the yoke and giving it a finer adjustment with a bigger adjustment knob. I have managed to cleanup and tune an old Stanley to get reasonable results but the main problem is fine adjustment of the blade to get a good shaving and finish. With all the slack in the adjuster there is a lot of hit and miss and time wasted.
As has been mentioned, these are really cool ideas. I LOVE anything that will get rid of the slop. I'd through whatever device works in my 3, 4 and 4 1/2. I would do the same with a fine adjustment wheel. I'm not sold on the shims to change bed angle. Also, pricing would be critical. If I am spending $80.00 on an upgraded iron and chipbreaker, then an additional $50.00 (I'm guessing here) for your kit, on a plane I already spent $40 to $50 dollars on, I would probably save up for the $400.00 Lie Nielsen smoother, however if the price were right, I would invest in these kits for all of my smoothers, and possibly my #7. Great video, this kind of innovation is really exciting.
Great job, my go to is #5 Stanley's right from the factory. The yolk and slop in adjustment knob are my biggest concerns, back to the mouse and the oreo cookies I have access to sapele where I live at our local lumber yard and a quick change of the bed angle would be nice also. Keep um coming 👍
With the yoke I'd prefer the hole undersized. I'd like the fine thread on the knob, with it being slightly oversized, I find that my arthritic hands prefer the larger knobs.
I love my old bailey planes, but the ability to tune it to the degree your striving for would be absolutely fantastic.
I like the file adjustable fitting for replacement irons. seems like a solid item that solves a real problem. I also like the idea of having a larger knob with maybe a different pattern on it.
The shims for the frog seem like a good idea, but it would be to convert an existing plane, not something that would get switched back and forth, so Maybe I would just buy a high angle plane?
The finer threads are something else I 'think' of as a nice thing, but don't know how practical they are. a tighter action with less slop makes the tighter threads seem a bit too much.
My best advice about it is to think in terms of kits, rather than pieces parts. single pieces are probably less sellable than several pieces together that solve this particular (set of) problem(s).
I just got the shipping notice for a replacement cap iron and blade for my Stanley #5, made by Veritas - and based on this video I may have introduced a new problem by trying to solve another.
Would love the fine adjustment. Less so the alternative angles. More importantly I hope they would be available in the UK.
everything would be shipped world wide.
Never found any of these things to be a problem really.. As for thick irons, they are quite unessesary IMHO. The bog standard irons have served us well for over 100 years.
I really like the idea of having the fine adjustment on the blade. I have always thought there was too much slop in the knob and the yoke. I think you guys are on to something with this line of upgrading parts. I believe there will be individuals that will use some of these items and some that will use all of them.
You might want to consider those who want to replay their knob & yoke and keep everything else original. I would definitely be interested in something like that and would like to know what it would cost.
Thanks All! Blessings!
An adjustable longer yoke is 1st priority. It opens up more options for users.
Angle adapter 2nd. The same result can be achieved with a back bevel on blade, but as you are making the blade thinner on the cutting edge; an adapter is better. It does change how and where the front end of frog sits. Not sure if it introduces chatter because of that.
For me, I don’t care too much about the new thread. It may require the most amount of work because the old one may be difficult to remove. With a better yoke, there should not be much back and forth adjusting any more, and the current thread is fine enough.
I’d love the high angle wedges, I’m tired of back beveling!
I really like the ideas of wedges to change the angle for difficult grain and also the longer joke for thicker irons.
The standard knob really works for me so I wouldn't consider something else.
I like these mods. The idea of a finer thread would be great. I use a no. 3 smoother so I like the smaller wheel.
The yoke would be great for thicker irons. Maybe something like Rob’s adjustar. I have one of the beta’s of it and it’s great in anything bigger than a no 4. My hands were really cramped in my 4 with it on it.
For the angle adjusters maybe something for bedrocks after the Bailey design is finished? I’ve stopped reaching for anything other than my no 6 and 605.
Amazing ideas that could help bring these older planes to newer, way more expensive plane standards! Could sell as individual parts or kits.
Definitely interested in changing the bed angle. I would prefer the yoke be predrilled.
I'm gonna have to noodle with this a bit but initial thoughts here.
The yoke idea is a spectacular one. I'm not positive about the split one. Not sure about anyone else here but I could see myself driving the screw too far and permanently deforming it.
I don't generally work in exotics or highly figured wood so I'll leave comments about wedges to others but its certainly a neat idea.
As for the fine thread and new nut...I like the idea though I think you'd have to be careful of just how fine a thread you went with. With my total lack of patience I could see myself getting very frustrated making 100 turns if I had to make a coarse adjustment. Oh and as for the style of nut...Millers Falls I think it was made a solid one that I LOVE the look of.
Great ideas Jeff and thanks for sharing James! Can't wait to see what else you gentlemen come up with.
You had me at the title. My daughters love that book series. Right now, I'm not at that point in my woodworking journey to fine tune the plane. Still figuring out sharpening. Later though I could see myself looking at the yoke and turn knob modifications. Thanks
I love the idea. I recently bought a relatively cheap Caliastro #5 and tuned / suped it up. Including a Woodriver blade per your recommendation, I might add. I even added set screws to snug it up side to side at the mouth like the Veritas planes have and some small washers on the yoke pin to remove some slop there. Also, the yoke is the worst part on that plane, so an upgraded one would be great.
I really like the tighter yolk and finer thread options for sure. I’ve always hated how much slop there is and going back and forth to dial in with that is a pain. These are no brainer improvements. Love it
This is a great idea! I would be extremely interested in that fine pitch screw and the yoke! I would probably get the screw for several of my planes as some are spin clockwise and others counter and that's annoying
Hope this works out!
love this idea! I would make the yoke long like he did, but then fatter/ thicker as well, then you can just file it to a perfect fit for the iron/ chip breaker, without having to drive a screw in it. Also I'd rather a heavier knob. Again, I love this idea!
I think all of these are great ideas and there would be demand for all of them. IMO, the larger knob with fine threads and the pitch adjustment would be most useful. As for the yoke, if there was a kit with all three, I'd probably pay for the whole kit and kaboodle. I would definitely prefer the yoke to already be drilled and I can make the hole bigger as needed.
Honesty I think the only thing that I would ever need would be the thicker-longer yoke so I could put in a new thicker blade. At some point the upgrades might end up costing as much as a new plane. Great ideas that might interest a smaller group of experienced woodworkers.
Fine thread for sure. Big knob, heavy is good (but not critical). I'd buy a set of wedges, since I'm still struggling with getting tear-out free surfaces even on easy to plane woods. Lastly, there should definitely be a hole in the yoke. Undersized is good, but a no-hole version I wouldn't buy - too hard to get it perfectly straight. I would definitely purchase one kit to try. If it worked well I might get 4 more. Thanks!
Tighten up the yoke and the fine-thread adjustment would be helpful for me.
I’d go for the you’re with the longer tongue, and it would be great if it had larger knobs on the ends to engage the adjustment wheel with less play. Would also go the finer-grained adjustment thread (large knob, please) and the angle lifts.
Yoke, precision screw and nut in a set would be great, different heat treated colours could also be fun. Maybe cold blued or blue purple ish or the simple clean brass for the more traditional style. Different grip patters ( cross,hex, fish - patterns or rounded lines ) for the nut. Maybe even a washer style screw for worn out cap irons?
These are all really great ideas and I would definitely be interested in buying all but the frog wedges. I would be interested in some type of device that could lock the lateral adjustment in place as well if that was engineered somehow.
The yoke the knob ou la la! Please go at a reasonable price!