JVC KDX110 Diagnostic
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- čas přidán 19. 11. 2014
- This time we find out why this car radio no longer works. No repair due to lack of parts but covers the basics.
Tools I use -
Soldering
Quick 861DW hot air station
Duratech TS-1640 solder iron
Multimeter
RMM760D - can be found under many name badges
Microscope
Luzky Zoom 3.5 - 90x simul-focus single boom stand trinocular stereo microscope
Camera - Lucky Zoom HD 14MP
Oscilloscopes
Siglent SDS 1102CML 100MHz 2CH
Philips PM 3305 35MHz 2CH
Bench supply
Powertech MP-3086 0-30V 3A
Always love your troubleshooting logic!
Brill vid. My JVC KD-R711 kept popping into Protect mode. I'd used a couple of line converters with the Saab amp in my 9-5 and figured these ebay specials where to blame. Pulled em, using the RCA's instead but resetting & turning back on after a while would throw up Protect again.
Thanks to your video, I decided I'd got nothing to lose, pulled the IC chip and it's working 100%. Don't need the built-in amp anyway and didn't want to bin what is a great stereo. Thanks!
btw, not sure if this applies to many JVC models, but reset switch wouldn't clear 'Protect' mode on mine....pressing MENU and TP for 5 secs put it in recovery mode, scrolling thru' various recovery fault options with VOL, until CLR ERROR ( if I recall correctly ) pressing VOL in to activate choice. This clears 'Protect' mode - unless you haven't found the actual fault, of course.
Oh thanks for the tip. I did not know that mode existed, cheers :)
Your video is on the excellent Justine Yong newsletter lol You are now officially famous!
Nice video!
Awesome! World famous in Malaysia :)
Jonny Fix Well im in Slovakia and i got your video off the newsletter - go figure!
Nice video. Thanks dude.
Good work
Nice video sir
Thank you!
Sir mere paas kenwood ka model kdc u563bt hy supply dene par sort ho rha hy plz bataye kya karu
Much thanks
Send service issue how can slove this problem.plzzz tell
Thank you so much!.If it wasn't for 19:42 (joining red and yellow together to test it) i would have thrown out my "all good JVC".I was doing it yellow - and red + to test it..
Eeeek. If you put it in a car, connect yellow to constant 12V and red to switched so only on with key on. This will ensure radio memory is saved.
I was testing it on a battery thinking yellow was - and red +.Then when i saw how you did it .So i did the same,and then bingo...Its in the car now haha...Chers
hey, i got a question. I have a BOSS 9967b head unit with flipout screen where everything except the screen was working.i took it apart and checked the flex cable and it was fine. so i decided to power it up while it was apart without the cd mechanism and it turned on and was fine. however when opened the flipout, it came out halfway and the unit just went blank. its dead now. any idea as to the direction i can go?
You must have disturbed something inside. Check all connections, put CD mech back in, make sure motors or gears haven't jammed up.
Nice video. What do you think can cause an ic amo to overheat, got mine replaced but stull overheating at high volume.
They're not designed to be run at very high volume. Any amplifier used near it's maximum will end up clipping the output signal causing heat (and poor audio quality and possibly damage speakers). If you want more volume you should run an external amp and appropriately rated speakers.
Bro men line koi sa he
Hi Jonny Fix
Nice and informative video. There are not many out there - so thumbs up.
We have a JBL (Car) amp. It has gone into protect mode. It has blown two main units (Sony xlode and a pioneer)
By looking at your video on car amp, we were able to pin point the problem to the mosfet resistors. They had zero resistance where they should have Kilo ohms of resistance. We suppose it also explains why it has blown up two main units.
In your JVC KDX video you locate a blown audio output ic and you also mention the voltage regulator IC.
But what if you can´t determine if its broke by visual inspection as you were able to.
Do you meassure voltage or resistance? and how much should it be?
What brand of ICs and mosfets would you recommend?
Thanks
,
Jacob Dragsted Often when an audio IC fails the transistors inside short which, if it doesn't blow holes in the chip, will often give you supply rail voltage on the speaker wires, so that's one way to know the chip is dead and generally how you know there's a fault on any amp output stage. SOME amps do present a voltage when no speaker is present, put a 10ohm resistor across the line to see if it goes away, if not then it's a fault. If a voltage reg IC fails you will either get too much or not enough voltage on the outputs. If fuses are blowing there could be a short on the input pins to ground. If you can't find a data sheet you can follow the power wires in and trace it to identify the input pins. A short on the input to the audio IC can blow fuses to. As for what to replace them with, it will have to be the same type. For mosfets, look at the datasheet for the old one and compare ratings to those available to you, if you can't get the same one get a higher rated one and one with the same gate turn on voltage. Good luck!
Hi Jonny Thanks for your answer. finally found time to try to fix those audio IC I wrote to you about. In your answer you talk about "supply rail voltage" What´s that? Also when you talk about amp output do you mean the Ic`s internal amp or an external amplifier? the test you talk about with a 10 ohm resistor across the line - what line is that the speaker lines? Do you know where I can find the data sheets?
1999 Toyota rav4 oem head unit not working after jumping car battery. Trying to bench test. All fuses and wiring to radio good. Already replaced with another one from ebay
JVC kd-×110 me audio ic kis numbr ka lgta h bro pls bataye
Jcv8031
I have a quick question. I have a Jensen dmx 5020 headunit. somehow a speaker output from my amp got wired to an output from the headunit. the audio ic started smoking and the diode reads around 5 in both directions. what possibly could be wrong other than those two components?
Hey. Not sure which diode you mean. When you say 5, did you mean 0.5? 0.5volt drop across a diode is normal. I think most likely the audio IC is the only part damaged. I would remove it from circuit and see if everything else functions. If so and you don't need the speaker wires or can't get a replacement chip you could run just the RCA lines to an amp (if it has them).
Thankyou for your help and responing. I hope thats it and I will definitely try that
I Have the same problem, on my jvc chip not burned, because it have voltage on input and output, But there is no sound. When I turn volume to max I hear little noise, Just noise. Do you know its problem with pre amplifier? How can I test it? Thnx.
Pinal ki Bina kesi lagi blouses kit
JVC tep ki pinal ki Bina kesi on karey
14:38 is normal to that piece be hot 50-60 celsius degrees ?
At loud volume its temperature will rise. If it is operating correctly then it's probably normal, especially if ambient temp is quite high. I think they're only rated to drive 4ohm speakers, if you use 2ohm then it will be under stress.
Can you fix my avx77 🙏
I have a JVC Arsenal and an external amp and subwoofer. Ive checked all the wires, new battery, I an stumped... why is it resetting itself when I turn the volume up?
That is strange. Make sure the power wires have a good connection. Sometimes the black wire (negative) doesn't get connected to the right wire in the car. Bolt it directly to a metal part of the dash that connects to the cars body. The positive yellow wire might also not have a good enough feed depending where it's been connected to.
@@JonnyFix you mean the power wire coming from the deck harness? I have power and ground and RCA hooked into monoblock amp, and the amp is grounded directly to the chassis.
@@stephaniespotts6533 if the amp and head unit share the same power feed when the amp cranks up it might cause the voltage at the head unit to drop and so it cuts out
@@stephaniespotts6533 I would have a separate power and ground for the deck. I can only think your power and ground wires to the amp aren't thick enough, or maybe your ground point on the chassis isn't good. Also bolting the ground wire under an existing nut for example isn't guaranteed unless you've scraped off the paint. It has to be perfect wire to metal contact.
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My jvc dvd bottom is not working .solution dijie
Jvc caic repair kare
PLEASE HELP!, MY CAR STEREO JVC, suddenly doesn't let me control it. when i start my car on, the stereo itself turns on and play a cd (last use mode) controls don't respond at all, not even to eject the cd. i have a 'reset' and unplug my battery as well but still doing the same thing (starts play cd automatically), shows blue colors in screen waiting for setup (same when it was new) but can't control anything. Please help!!!! how can i fixed it. (its not broken, i have had it for 7 years and never had a problem bedore) Thank you very much!!!!
Sorry man your comment was held for review and I've only just found it. Probably no help now but I'd first say clean the contacts on the back of the faceplate and the ones they mate with for a start. Maybe better luck next time!
@@JonnyFix Hello. and Thank you veru much for replyingd my message!. So, I fixed it and i'd like to share my tip with anyone. What I did was. I grabbed a paper clip, and carefully i design the shape as 'Z' sort of shape (but more straight and square) and i measured visually in the way the clip shoul be inside on the faceplate attached to the unit and automatically pushing the 'Reset' button, located just little below of the front 'black unit'', Then, was in place and pushing the 'reset' button, I turn the stereo on and, and i soon as the screen show, I finally hace full control of the Stereo. Then i turn if off, Detached the faceplate and Take out the paper clip (and i am saving it for future uses, LOL), So, Up today i'm still using my old JVC Stereo. Thank you very much!!!!!!!!!!!!
В итоге исправил или нет , чето я не понял
weldone
Then reset unit miswiring chhod wiring
What a problem
Sir I want to repair panel button they are not working
Make sure connection between face plate and main board is good then check there is power to each button.
What would break if I put power to the rem wire
Probably nothing. Depending how the circuit is the worst you might do is damage it so you don't get 12v out that wire anymore.
@@JonnyFix the radio won't turn on anymore. Note this power wire was hooked up directly to the battery and I hooked it up by accident, thinking it was my pecon for my amps.
I don't have a lot of experience with this but not a noob either, any direction to go would be nice.
My guess after your video is maybe the voltage regutater and it appears to have some brown on a few pins. How would I go about testing it? In and out circuit. What would be the next component if it didn't stop there? Would that espencive part that blow in your video be possible?
Forgive the questions and mile long message and thanks for your time and help.
Found out the problem thanks for the help and reply earlier.
@@FearOfDeath1332 OK I had a look at an old JVC unit here and the rem wire is fed via a diode so if 12V were to be put on this wire it wouldn't go anywhere, it can't go back through the diode unless the diode is shorted. There is a zener diode in parallel with this which will limit the voltage, my guess is if for e.g. the alternator fails and puts out >15V the zener will clamp it to not go higher (as it's passed through the radio first) and damage the antenna motor controller (this line is also used for electric aerial activation). It could also be to clamp back EMF that may happen from the antenna units operation? Anyway, if this zener has failed it will likely short and pull the rem output to ground. Since this output is fed directly from the main voltage regulator (big chip attached to heatsink on the side, (not the one on the back this is the audio amp) then if this line is shorted to ground it could very well stop the chip turning on. Find and test both these diodes, they're likely close to the plug. Find the pin then follow the traces on the board until you see them. The zener will have the anode connected to ground. You could take the zener off if it's bad as it's not required for normal operation as far as I can tell.
Boot name ki
Hi Jonny Fix, I know this is a rather old video, but I am curious if you ever replaced the output IC just to see if there was any different behavior? During the video, you were looking for JVC8031, but the chip is actually the JCV8031. An easy misread "in the mind" considering the device is a JVC. I did check on Ebay and it was available. www.ebay.com/p/Genuine-Jvc-kenwood-JCV8031-Car-Radio-Power-Amplifier-IC/1385749307
Please refresh
Input protection diode ? Or output chip
If nothing lights up check input diode, but that would blow fuses or overload bench supply if it was bad. If it functions but no sound then likely audio chip as the car was probably jumped in reverse to cause this.
Not jumpered in reverse. I used a type s jump starter, power bank new from costco to jumper dead battery on my 99 Toyota rav4. Radio was off. Whatever the surge coming back affected the radio. Your videos will be a big help.
Maybe if you put back a good rectifier diode, you'll get to be closer to reach the on state... Just sayn' "WINK"-"WINK"
Incorrect. The diode is not used for rectification nor is it required for normal functionality as it is in parallel with input lines for protection only, not in series.
good day, chip amp? the number of chips?
Hi bro
My dont tuner radio station
i guess it might be this chip , - www.inkocean.in/tda7388-zip25-car-audio-amplifier-ic-chip-four-channel-high-power-amplifier-output however that car radio is totaly rubbish too many tiny components
Men kanekcen
Yahi shate dead hai Hindi mein video banaen