I just finished my fork rebuild and valve tuning... At the 22 minute mark, I seat the fork cap until it just bottoms out , I push the spring down and bring up the locking nut to the bottom of the fork cap.
Excellent video - clearly explained on what to look for and how to feel for wear. It looks like a fiddly process to get the oil levels right but this makes it so much more straightforward to do. When opening the triple tree clamps I use a hardwood wedge that is hard enough not to get squished and soft enough not to damage the alloy. An odd thing to have in your toolbox I know. What bike lift is it that you have - I could really do with one to save my knees. For future videos it would be nice to see some preventative maintenance - how to stop the brake pistons from rusting up, lubing the control cables, checking wheel alignment - stuff a lot of people tend to overlook. Just a thought and maybe something to add to any other work you do on one of the bikes.
I'm really liking your suggestions, so thank you for that! Good idea for more content for sure. It was a tedious process to get the oil out...every time I thought I had it mostly out, i'd let it sit, pump it up and more would come out lol. I had a plastic wedge that I used to use for my other bikes on the triple tree, but I couldnt find it while I was shooting so i just bit the bullet and wrestled it off lol. the hardwood wedge sounds like a better solution. Thats a harbor freight high lift. works great. the only thing i had to do was add the block of wood in between the two "fork" arms because its designed more for big street bikes i think and a dirt bike isnt long enough to sit flush in the middle. with that block, i can use it for my little xl125 too!
If your just changing the oil there is no need to remove the springs etc... just drain the oil into a measured container and put the same amount back in.
How do you drain the oil without taking the fork off and turning it upside down and the springs sliding out? There isn’t a drain bolt on these forks as far as I understand.
@@Garage2Trail You still have to take the forks off and turn them upside down, but you only have to open the caps you don't have to take them off the dampening rod, then the springs, washers collars etc all stay in place. I usually change the oil this way every second or third engine oil change, then during the off season i change it the way you showed and make sure the level is correct.
@@losttheplotcolin gotcha..I still like to be thorough and pump the dampening rod to get out as much as possible but I guess if you are changing it that often it wouldn’t matter! Thanks for the tip!
Good video. What's your thoughts on lubricating the chain vs no lube at all. What do you do? I'm curious, there's no right or wrong answer, its just what method people prefer really. Ive just recently subbed to your channel thanks.
Thank you and welcome to the channel! I lube it before every ride with clear maxima chain lube and clean it after muddy rides. Maxima also makes a very good chain cleanup degreaser that basically lets the build up of lube fall right off when washing the bike after a ride. After cleaning, I'll take a dirty old rag and run it along the chain and then apply new lube so its ready to go for the next ride.
I usually try to do it every other riding season but it all depends on how often and what kind of riding you do. I only ride during summer months here and I’m out a couple times a week at least.
Equally great movie as with the rear suspension. Great job 👌
Thank you! I’ll have more with this bike on this channel…riding and wrenching videos.
Excellent Tutorial.... I'm currently in the process of doing the same maintenance schedule of both front and rear.
Thank you! Glad it was able to help. I’m assuming you saw Part 1 as well showing the rear linkage?
@@Garage2Trail I did, and enjoyed both parts. Very well done.
I just finished my fork rebuild and valve tuning... At the 22 minute mark, I seat the fork cap until it just bottoms out , I push the spring down and bring up the locking nut to the bottom of the fork cap.
@@CraigersFish thank you again!
@@CraigersFish sounds good! Always good to get input on other ways to accomplish this. How does it feel with a revalve?
Excellent video - clearly explained on what to look for and how to feel for wear. It looks like a fiddly process to get the oil levels right but this makes it so much more straightforward to do.
When opening the triple tree clamps I use a hardwood wedge that is hard enough not to get squished and soft enough not to damage the alloy. An odd thing to have in your toolbox I know.
What bike lift is it that you have - I could really do with one to save my knees.
For future videos it would be nice to see some preventative maintenance - how to stop the brake pistons from rusting up, lubing the control cables, checking wheel alignment - stuff a lot of people tend to overlook. Just a thought and maybe something to add to any other work you do on one of the bikes.
I'm really liking your suggestions, so thank you for that! Good idea for more content for sure.
It was a tedious process to get the oil out...every time I thought I had it mostly out, i'd let it sit, pump it up and more would come out lol.
I had a plastic wedge that I used to use for my other bikes on the triple tree, but I couldnt find it while I was shooting so i just bit the bullet and wrestled it off lol. the hardwood wedge sounds like a better solution.
Thats a harbor freight high lift. works great. the only thing i had to do was add the block of wood in between the two "fork" arms because its designed more for big street bikes i think and a dirt bike isnt long enough to sit flush in the middle. with that block, i can use it for my little xl125 too!
Great vid 😀. Been doing these jobs on mine , nicely explained 😀
Thank you again!
here we go....going to do it , this tutorial is what i was looking for... thanks :) cheers from Baja
Excellent! If you have any questions feel free to ask and let me know how it goes!
@@Garage2Trail thanks a lot.... in this moment draining the old oil :)
Отличное видео!👍Теперь поменяю масло тоже в вилке хрюши сам.
If your just changing the oil there is no need to remove the springs etc...
just drain the oil into a measured container and put the same amount back in.
How do you drain the oil without taking the fork off and turning it upside down and the springs sliding out? There isn’t a drain bolt on these forks as far as I understand.
@@Garage2Trail You still have to take the forks off and turn them upside down, but you only have to open the caps you don't have to take them off the dampening rod, then the springs, washers collars etc all stay in place.
I usually change the oil this way every second or third engine oil change, then during the off season i change it the way you showed and make sure the level is correct.
@@losttheplotcolin gotcha..I still like to be thorough and pump the dampening rod to get out as much as possible but I guess if you are changing it that often it wouldn’t matter! Thanks for the tip!
Good video. What's your thoughts on lubricating the chain vs no lube at all. What do you do? I'm curious, there's no right or wrong answer, its just what method people prefer really. Ive just recently subbed to your channel thanks.
Thank you and welcome to the channel! I lube it before every ride with clear maxima chain lube and clean it after muddy rides. Maxima also makes a very good chain cleanup degreaser that basically lets the build up of lube fall right off when washing the bike after a ride. After cleaning, I'll take a dirty old rag and run it along the chain and then apply new lube so its ready to go for the next ride.
Los 4 últimos tornillos no se aprietan tal u como está la amortiguación
Hay que hacerla trabajar para que valla a su sitio y después apretar
How often should you do this?
I usually try to do it every other riding season but it all depends on how often and what kind of riding you do. I only ride during summer months here and I’m out a couple times a week at least.
What motorcycle lift is that?
It’s a cheap Harbor Freight motorcycle lift designed for street bikes but I cut some wood to accommodate dirt bikes.