Easiest log building method ever!!. Part 2
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- čas přidán 5. 09. 2024
- Part 2 showing how the Highlander method works. The Highlander method cuts out the heavy lifting, no lifting equipment required.Its much faster, there is less waste & you don't even need any log-building experience or skills. No notches to cut!! Its enough if you can cut a straight line with a chainsaw.
amzn.to/3bwaVxu This the mini chainsaw mill that I use
Music:- www.bensound.com/
Ironically; this concept came too me in a dream. I am late in my years, time being short along w/ health issues and lack of heavy equipment, I have found I am no longer capable of dragging and lifting of the non symmetric crooked loggs I originally wanted too build with. That and lack of knowledge kinda let me down on my lofty GOAL of building old traditional log Cabin by hand only. So finding this totally by accident is in FACT A BLESSING!
Thank you. I am once again pumped up and encouraged!
Glad I could be of service. Thankyou
Besides being a somewhat easier method than more traditional log cabin construction techniques, is the ability to start with a smaller single room cabin and expand to multiple rooms as time, resources, and needs arise. Very modular friendly method.
very good point. thanks.
@TruthSeeking Endless I'm afraid its not as simple as that. the dryness of the logs is not the only factor. When you cut the grooves and notches you change the stresses in the logs so they will change shape and settle even if they were totally dry. The prevailing wisdom is to stack and dry logs for a couple of years before using them. The traditional way that it was done here was to girdle trees (remove a ring of bark, killing the tree and starting the drying process while the tree is still standing) theses trees all being on the northern side of the forest (slower growing). Wait a couple of years. Then fell the trees, partially remove the bark in strips, stack the logs and wait another couple of years.
@@ProjectHighlanderIso kiitos näistä videoista! Missäpäin vaikutat?
after all this time looking ive finally found the method I'm looking for. thank you so much
Glad I could be of help! Thanks for watching.
make a depth mark on the tip of your chainsaw bar it will help you hold the correct depth of the cut on your notches...
I used this same principle on a machine shop in northern Minnesota for a sawmill! He had a million 6x6 log cores that rejected for use so I suggested that we use them for the walls! It looked great and worked great too!
Sounds good, Do you have photos/ film? I would love to see it.
Excellent innovation and great work! You mentioned in Part 1 that others surely have used similar methods because of the variety of problems that are solved by your tongue-and-notch innovation. One such company in the States is Pan Abode Cedar Homes. They started building simple pre-fab kit cabins in 1952 using a similar tongue-and-notch method, and have since expanded into engineered systems, laminates, custom homes, etc. But the fundamental tongue-and-notch system has stayed with the company through all their growth, technical changes and competitive pressures. That's an enduring testament to your method.
For me, your videos have opened up many new possibilities for my cabin and (almost remote) property in Kenai, Alaska. The method is so flexible I can adapt and combine to create my own unique buildings, boathouses, sheds, whatever! Thanks.
You are very welcome. I really hope you can adapt and combine this method. Continuous innovation can only be a good thing. My next project will also combine my method with some other traditional techniques.
Hello Eric Downey, I also own land in the Kenai area. Have you started any log building?
Sir, i love your commentary, it's very relaxed and casual. You love doing this and do it very well.
Thank you very much!
I’m enjoying the little Shindaiwa saw. I absolutely stand behind Shindaiwa. They make fabulous saws.
Yes they really do.
I love buildings made from earthen materials! So beautiful, sturdy and healthier to live in. Great work!👍
Better than buildings made from mars materials I guess?
@@GregoryJByrne Nobody likes a smartass, except for when it's epic! Well Done!
@@GregoryJByrne I have some moon rocks being delivered soon. Amazon Prime!!!
@@dennisjohnsen7297 Ad Hominem. Ignorance is bliss I guess. Fossil Fool.
@ 3:26, the word you're looking for is "gutter", typically cut out with a "gotter adze" or your tool of choice. Cheers and thanks for sharing! The Northmen CZcams channel, "birth of a wooden house" is built in a similar fashion... brilliant and an excellent solution for green timber building where the logs would season and shrink causing issues for the windows and doors, just applying this same technic in those areas the logs can simply slide down as they season as long as you remember to leave a gap at the top for this settling.
OK, gutter. Interesting. I have also seen it called a 'lateral notch'.
Absolutely brilliant!!! I’m rethinking my homestead build from framing to this.
Go for it!
me too, this guy really opened my eyes to what I can do alone!
your english is great..i understand you..i like your work...you explain things, that a bonus..
Quite a clever technique. I'm especially appreciating the efficiencies that come with stacking the wall sections and cutting the tenons on one end all at one time. That's quite a lot of time and effort saved.
It is but doing the wall sections also means you are dealing with much shorter, easy to handle, logs. No lifting equipment needed.
You Sir are one might hell of a carpenter. I love this method! Good day Sir from Alabama USA
Thank you Sir.
I really like this method of building as well as the walk-through. very comprehensive!
Glad you like it!
@@ProjectHighlander watching episode 5 and 6 now!
I've got the constant feeling that's Anthony's Hopkins voice :))
Great job Sir
You explain this so well I feel like I could build my own.
probably means you could......
Oh, this is magic!!! So empowering. This method is freaking brilliant. Thank you so much
Glad you like it!
❤️🇨🇦🇨🇦🇨🇦❤️👍👍 you make it look like child’s play. Great ideas there.❤️👌
why is this soooooo soothing.
Watching this series again because I believe I could fumble my way through building my little cabin with this method,(?). Although I will not have logs to work with.😞
Thank you so very much.
this build make a small cabin
go for it!
Thanks for sharing the fly over. Love nature
serious chainsaw skills
This method could be done using precast concrete beams and post as well.... great idea!
precast concrete with a layer of insulation in the middle.....?
You are a brilliant man.
Very interesting method, now I think of ways to do this with a small viking A frame hut on the front and back, using big logs for centered doorframe will look amazing
interesting idea.
💗💗💗 ENJOYING THIS SERIES
You've given me an idea. Thanks! I am going to build my own variation of your method using vertical posts as walls.
Yes, that can work. try to source really really dry logs so they don't shrink much because you won't have gravity helping to close the gaps between logs as they dry.
@@ProjectHighlander I will be using white pine that's still green. I cut them two months ago. What are your suggestions then? I was told to cut a two inch deep groove down the length of the logs and drive wedges in to prevent checking. This would be concealed in between adjacent logs of course.
@@mountainsasquatch13 Ok. Therebis no easy answer to this one. It depends what kind of building you are doing, if you are insulating between logs etc. The log will split down the line whre the distance from the heart wood to the 'surface' is the least. So that will be where you have made the groove. when you cut out the bigger groove to fit against the next log you will do this along that line. if its green wood and you want to minimise the the amount to which your logs will become loose as they shrink then when you do this bigger groove you want to make it really exact. When doing normal horizontal logs its generally ok to have some space between the logs in the middle of the groove. The log can crack and sink down but the seams on the outside won't open up. You need to do the oposite. the middle of the groove should be touching the next log as well as the edges. As the log cracks and moves the inner edges of the crack will push against the next log keeping the fit tight. the downside is that the seams on the outside will open up a bit. Hope This helps.
@@ProjectHighlander Thanks. It helps me tremendously to be able to pull from your knowledge and experience. Since I am using green wood do you think that it would be better to build horizontal log walls instead of vertical like I planned?
@@mountainsasquatch13 Well, yes it would be better...but it might be more interesting to go vertical. I'd love to hear how that goes. We don't learn and move forward if people don't think (and work) out of the box.
tongue and groove construction. makes sense. nice.
Thanks
Dude. Amazing.
Thanks for making these videos.
Thank YOU very much for the encouraging comments!
It would be interesting to do this with 4x4s. Make a channel in the upright log to fit the whole 4x4 then you wouldn't need to even notch 4x4s and fo even quicker.
Worth a try, very thin walls of course but in a mild climate maybe.
You got to be good with that chainsaw. 👍🏼👍🏼💪🏼💪🏼
Awesome educational video ! Hands down top notch ! Although the 1970's porn music was a bit much ! Just the sound of the equipment and your knowledgeable words more than sufficed!
I wonder if you could incorporate a chinking method into this style? I would be concerned about water trapped between the logs and rotting. You have the creative juice overflowing on this one. Great idea!
I don't really understand the question. Maybe I don't understand what you mean by chinking. Here we insulate between logs as we build and once a roof is on three is no concern with any moisture between the logs. Of course people around here have only been building with logs for a few hundred years and have not had a problem with 'water trapped between the logs and rotting'......I am currently restoring a 300 yr old log building.....putting in new floors, the log walls are fine. But thanks for watching!
Very clever
Thanks
Enjoyed the video, apart from the annoying loud music. Great work on the logs.
Thanks 👍
but very nicely done
I wouldn't expect much shrinking of 100yr plus logs; as mentioned when explaining the window installation at 12:28
no. not much shrinkage expected. but the logs were stored for a few years outside, covered but not under a roof so they will have taken on a little moisture. So while I don't think there will be much shrinkage I have to take it into account
....
Yeah, doesn’t work for me, but it’s innovative for sure!
They're reclaimed logs that already shrunk, other then some settling from the gaps in cuts i wouldnt expect any change.
No, not much,
Love how he just cuts it without measuring lol
Awesome work tho. I love it
Thanks!
I think if you cut all logs flat and screwed in 2x2 for the tougee like you did the window. This would be alot faster. Cut your time in half.
The window moves as a unit, sliding in the groove with seasonal mvmts. If you screwed a lumber tongue to the ends of the logs, you would join all of them - this would not allow for seasonal mvmt, settling, and ultimately the logs would come loose from the tongue.
Yes no music necessary, would rather hear the sound of the chainsaw
sorry
@@ProjectHighlander dont be sorry! This music is much much better then the music in part 1.
The English word is "scribe" the lines on to your log.
Well after watching the first video on this i think im going to use this method for my first build. Super awesome of you to share and im glad i came across your page! Im in colorado so i have hopes of finding the perfect piece of land with plenty of trees, but being colorado that could cost way more than i have planned for. If i was to get a piece of land where theres not enough trees to fell myself, what do you think about using telephone poles for the logs? I figure i can get my hands on plenty of those without costing a fortune. Of course id prefer to cut my own trees on my land but worst case scenario, how would telephone poles be?
Telephone poles would be great. You should check, though, how the poles have been treated, if at all. I am sure it is different in different places around the world but here there are different types, some are pressure treated with something like creosote which makes them difficult to work with. Some may be treated with other chemicals which may be harmful to your health, check how they deal with telephone poles where you are.
At first I thought, "This looks easy enough maybe I could do it!" But then I remembered the time I tried to cut my own bangs...
no idea what you mean. "Bangs"?
@@ProjectHighlander In some countries they call it fringe. It was a joke about how I can't cut my own hair let alone build a house
The horizontal cut is called a Swedish Cope.
ok, thats a new one. it seems it has many different names around the world, cope, horizontal notch, lateral notch etc.
the best is great...im enjoying your talking its so cool... im from Rio de Janeiro-Brazil...l!!
The scalloping of the lower surface is referred to as coping.
Great. thanks. So is there a word for the groove itself? Here the notch is called a 'Salvos' and the groove is called the 'varaus'.
Its a bulhus from Vikings we still have billings like that 800 years old in Norway and Sweden
Great to hear that. I am not surprised. Thanks for the comment.
Awesome 👍
Thanks 🤗
Cool 😎
Putting the V lateral notch seems like that would be difficult. That needs to be pretty uniform the whole length of log or would cause all sorts of leveling and plum issues.
As with almost every log building method.
Ahha soumalainen. Was wondering about the twocabin car to be Volkswagen?
Yep. VW Doka
Like this a lot and am thinking of doing this but for the logs drilling a hole into them for WOODEN PEGS to go from the TOP To the bottom of halfway to the next log it is a lot of pegs but as it goes on up they go together and stay there what do you think of this !!! I have a panel of a quilt that I have been quilting and it is like the A - FRAME Log cabin Homey and SWEET BOTH OF THEM!!!
Thats exactly what I did when I rebuilt this building on site.
Really enjoying this series , quick question do you always have to have vertical post opposite each other? thanks so much for putting these videos out.
It makes it much easier to connect all the posts together at the top.
Love watching you build. Where are you. Are the building expensive,,you are very good ,,would like one for a sewing room. I just bought a shed. To house fixing it ,I am living in it as I work on it. Thanks
Finland, and yes, my buildings are fairly expensive. I never build the same thing twice. every building has to be unique or I would lose interest.
Hey I’m working my way through this series. Interesting stuff, thanks for sharing. Question - I notice you put the “groove” in the vertical post and the “tongue” in the horizontal log. Any reason/consideration for this, as opposed to “tongue” on the post and “groove” in the horizontal log?
Thanks for the question! Not really a big difference. I have done it the other way also but it meant adding wood. I have screwed a 2x4 on to the side of the post and grooved the ends of the horizontal logs. There is a small technical difference because you are adding a verticle piece of wood that may shrink at a different rate than the post. I negate this difference by screwiwing the 2x4 to the post with screws positioned around the center point of each horizontal log...avoiding the joints between one horizontal log and the next (if you see what I mean?) and cutting the vertical 2x4 here and there with the chainsaw between the screws so that it can shrink as the wall drops. I think I cover this in one of the later videos where I do this either side of the door.
Are you only using a chainsaw as a matter of principle? Would a circ saw with a ripping blade work better for the rips?
You could certainly do that. I am just so used to the saw that I use it for everything....
Can’t you post without the music... just a natural sounds would be great. Love your skills awesome building method. 👍
Noted!
Definitely unnecessary & annoying
Good way to build a wall.
All that in only 40 hours?!
very interesting way to build . like how you are reusing the logs .
Thank you very much!
wow!
Can ya just use 4 flat edges all the way around, without the beveled / curved cutout in between each log
You could but that curved cutout means the seams are pointing downwards preventing water from seeping in and up into the seams. But I have seen log buildings made with square logs just stacked ontop of each other and aparently it can be ok. make sure you have a really long overhang of the roof to prevent as much water as possible getting to the walls.
What in the world is that vehicle you're driving? I'm from Canada and have never seen something like that in my life!
If you mean the vehicle in the background about half way through? Its a 'Doka'. That's a vw double cabin pickup 1.9 td. Probably looks weird because it has a custom made combined bull-bars / roofrack.
could you use a 2x4 as a tenon instead of screwing on a 2x2? Just leave it as a loose tenon.
Sure, why not?
Question, instead of rounding them to fit the bottom of one to the other, could you do the same notch method? If so how? If not why?
Hi. Sorry but I do not understand the question...instead of rounding them.... instead of rounding what? I try to answer all questions so I'd love it if you could give me a bit more info so I can give you an answer.
1.Looks to be about the 10:25 mark one has a significant bottom gap and it appears that you corrected it.
2. All of these have an n shape on top and not sure if they were cut that way already to fit each other. Or could you have flat on top and bottom to stack on top of each other?
@@bigr0075 - ok, so you mean the logs themselves. These are hewn logs that Have been salvaged. They were part of another building that was taken down. Hewn logs are logs where two sides have been removed so that the wall will have flat sides inside and outside. But logs are not straight, so you will always have to shape the bottom of each log to fit onto the log below. If you used saw lumber then you would have flat surfaces top and bottom and could just stack them but that has problems, you are more likely to have gaps open up as the wood twists and bends as it dries, you are more likely to wick water into your wall because your joints are horizontal. . In your first question you asked if you could do the same notch system on the horizontals as the verticals. Again, every log is a different shape so we are not dealing with straight lines. Trying what you are suggesting would be much more difficult and much more work than just shaping each log to fit the previous one.
May I ask about your chain. I noticed you were using a skip tooth chain, do you always use the skip when constructing or did you only use it for cuts with the mini-mill? If not what type of chain do you use for building the tongue and grooves (ripping chain maybe?)?
Absolute standard straight off the shelf normal chain.
Its called a groove..
Couldn't you just screw/bolt precut portions of 2x2 on the the ends of each horizontal log rather then cutting each tongue on every log? Just a thought...
Yep, I should have watched until the end before commenting...
AWESOME!!! I wonder how a multi story would work....
Don't see why it would not work just fine.
I think this looks great but the only work you're really avoiding by fitting everything together is chinking. There's way easier ways to build a stockade log cabin. Look at Bush radicals youtube channel and check out his vertical log stockade style cabin in Alaska.
Min 14:20 All are based on one! 💖
what type of foundation would you suggest, using this method, for something like a 20' x 40' long cabin on a slight slope?
Its a good question. I would say pillars but the question becomes how many & spacing. It depends a bit on the layout but obviously the optimum would be a pillar under each vertical post. Of course this may be impractical. You use feet so I guess you are in the US so I am not sure of all the terms there but if a plinth foundation is out of the question (expensive) then I would consider changing it up a bit and laying down a round or two of full horizontal logs and then building with the vertical logs on top of them, then the pillars could go wherever you want, say at 10 ft spacing.
@@ProjectHighlander do you mean using the full logs as rim/end joists along the perimeter for the outer posts to sit on? I plan on making rooms and interior walls, and I should be able to put one post under each interior vertical, but I wonder how the floor joist process would go with posts all over the place lol
Would it be ok if I try to clarify what I said in a video?
@@ProjectHighlander it would be greatly appreciated! I am designing my build and want to make sure I do it right. I don't think I can build before the foundation is in place
uploading a video now.
What is the max length you could get away with before putting in another verticle support log?
How strong are you. If you do not have lifting equipment then you are limited only by how much you can lift....Although if you use common sense and know how to handle logs then you can actually maneuver logs solo despite them being many times heavier than you can actually lift. I will be covering this in my next log building video series.
Could you dove tail those "tounge cuts"??
Yes you absolutely could, It would mean lifting the logs up high and sliding them down in the grooves but you could argue that you would have a stronger joint.
Tongue and groove?
yep, basically.
Can someone explain to me what a log scriber dose ? I didn't quite understand what he was using it for and how thanks to anyone who's answers sorry if. This is a silly question 😂😅
I explain in detail in my next, ongoing, series in part two...czcams.com/video/oCLrS8pkoK0/video.html
Did you custom make those windows?
No. They were salvaged from another building, I had stored them for a few years waiting for the right project to come along.
I have watched this series of videos multiple times can you use this system for square milled logs/beams? I am at the very beginnings of building my home this way on my Channel.
I think shaping the bottom of the logs to fit the previous logs has some advantages but it will work with sqare section logs also.
@@ProjectHighlander Thank you may look at a tongue&groove on the beams I'm milling as well my concern would be warping making gaps on the square beams that's why I asked still in the planning phase for the walls.
Subscribed to your channel. look forward to more videos....
@@ProjectHighlander I did to yours as well definitely hope to have your input as well Thanks again for the advice & sub☺️ I was planning on a video today will definitely have one up now. I'll be sure to give you a shout out!
@@daninthedirt9449 Thanks. I will be following your project. On the subject of warping....yes, that is one of the advantages of cutting the horizontal groove in the bottom of the log which sits down, with all the weight above it, on the back of the log underneath. It helps to prevent warping and twisting. However the pegs also help so if you use square section lumber then you could consider putting in more pegs. Doubling up on the number of pegs can't hurt.
I'm curious, the first vertical post, is it notched into or over the 2x4 on the bottom....not sure how you anchored the first vertical.
Its shown in later episodes but yes, there is a 2x4 notch cut in the bottom of each post.
Any opinions on red pine for log home building? What the minimum diameter of a raw, round log that we should be considering? 10 inches? More? Thanks so much!!!
Pine is good. Sorry I don't do inches.... I like logs to start at about 22cm.
Is that a vw syncro in the background?
Yep.
Congrats on build
We also have a syncro here in South Africa.
I am so jealous of your skill.
Am moving to a tree rich area soon
And I would love to build with your system.
Don't you need a trip to South Africa soon😂😂😂
Blessed New Year.
Regards
Paul
Would love to see South Africa some day!
In pt 2
How well does this method work with wet logs?
Actually really well. Wet, un-seasoned logs will shrink a lot as they dry, this is a bit of a problem with 'normal' log building but it does not really matter at all with this system.
@@ProjectHighlander ty for replying and taking the time to answer almost every single persons questions... As far as all the haters go... Fuck em there's always going to be some of those... appreciate you
@@robertwelsh2499 Ha ha, yes there will. Many thanks!
Why not have vertical logs. See Bushradical CZcams channel. So much quicker, with non of those time consuming cuts.
checking that out. thanks for the tip.
Ok. I had a look. Interesting stuff that I need to look into deeper. I do have a couple of issues with one or two things he said in the video I watched which was a 'Q&A' video. But I will take a deeper dive. Thanks again.
You said you were building walls Vertical but your 100% wrong as it is all Horizontal??? Please Explainl
Really don't understand your point.... I am building walls which are, naturally, vertical using horizontal elements (logs). What do I need to explain exactly?
What kind of truck/van/vehicle is that?
VW Doka pickup with custom roofrack/bull bar combination.
instead of screws, use wooden dowels
You are not the first to say this and I get it. My day job is restoring historically significant log buildings for the Finnish Historical society and there it is often mandated that only pegs can be used. In those cases I understand but that's a very different situation. Its nice to keep it traditional but lets face it, If, the people building buildings a hundred years ago, or a couple of hundred years ago, had access to the kind of screws, bolts and nails we have now they would have used them. There are places where a wooden dowel will last longer than a screw or bolt but there are also places where a bolt will be better and last longer than a dowel.
@@ProjectHighlander Please don't think it a criticism.
Why couldn't you cut all the logs to length and screw a 2x2 on the end? You would only have to grove the corner posts.
ok. Good thinking but here is the problem. We are dealing with logs which are all different, some much taller than others, some that are taller at one end than the other, some may have a slight curve in one direction or another so when you put the log in place and you have to draw and cut the gutter /lateral groove on the underside of the log then to get a good fit you may have to take 1 cm from one end, 2cm from the other. Now your pre-made tongue or 2x2 which you made perpendicular to the log is no longer right and you will have to modify it. This mod is easy to do...unless you have screwed a 2x2 to the end of your log in which case you can't use a saw because of the screws. But in any case in modifying that joint you have shortened the log and you don't have enough at the other end. Thats why I leave them a little too long. I settle both the lateral groove and the tongue and then once the wall section is done I cut the other end.
Thank you for the detailed response. I guess I was thinking about fitting the logs on top of each other, then cutting the end in one swoop. After that, screwing in the 2x2 so it would all be the same depth going into the vertical log. Then making the vertical log fit the 2x2. I can see where I'd probably have a problem with keeping the logs aligned straight up and down the outside and inside without canting. Also getting the vertical end logs in alignment with the square base.
Again. I like how you think. Yes it would work to build a whole section of horizontal logs, all fitted together, and then cut both ends straight....but that would mean building some kind of frame or supports to hold the 'wall' up until you were ready to cut.the ends. Plus then you would have to take them all down and re-install them with one end (tongue) into the groove in a post, add another post at the other end and then start again. If you do it my way they are already in place.
Thank you for taking the time to help me understand. Have a very fine day.
Damn good idea but I see the potential problem. Still.. you could set one side of the wall with a cut tongue, which supports the wall and 2x2 the other end. Saves a little time. Kind of a cheat though. Not sure why that bugs me. No one would know, ha.
I really like your building videos, but the repetitive music is distracting and really gets on my nerves. I can't watch for very long. No music would be better.
Starting my next big project soon and will be reducing the music on those videos.
Those amount to nothing more than an upside down groove in the wood.
Don't use screws. Use dowels. 🤔
I understand the sentiment but it depends on the project & there are some circumstances where it just makes so much more sense to use a screw. I have done projects where the concept calls for no screws or nails though.
Easiest?? I would not use that word in this method. looks complicated
Each to their own.
I think the word your looking for is scribing I believe
Kätevä systeemi
kiitos
You me lost at your ad
They are not my adds, they are CZcams's. I have disabled adds in the middle of videos and all un-skipable adds.